Crosman 2300 S ultra build

[Hoosier Daddy]

You are very welcome... Glad they made it!
I was starting to wonder because I had not seen them here yet. Figured Columbus Day slowed things up.
I must say, they look better on your 2300 than they did on my 1377 when I got it. At least now you are one step closer to shooting.

[Racer X]

Nice package in the mail today.
I received my Protop and Disco valve body. Thanks Anthony. Now I will begin sourcing parts to complete the main tube.

[Racer X]

I have ordered the parts to complete the main tube. The spring and the hammer and its related parts.

I have to thank Fivestar45 for his help. Not only has he been very helpful with advice and supplying me with better parts than I was originally going to use. He has also saved me at least 60 dollars on the parts and even more money on parts I was looking at that might not have worked.  So THANK YOU Anthony!!!

[AmBraCol]

There are a LOT of great folk that hang out here, and the spirit of helpfulness permeates the place. 

This has been a fun build to watch!

[fivestar45]

I have ordered the parts to complete the main tube. The spring and the hammer and its related parts.

I have to thank Fivestar45 for his help. Not only has he been very helpful with advice and supplying me with better parts than I was originally going to use. He has also saved me at least 60 dollars on the parts and even more money on parts I was looking at that might not have worked.  So THANK YOU Anthony!!!

You Are Very Welcome Eric
As already mentioned, there are a lot of folks that want to help others with their projects. 

[Racer X]

I made a couple parts while I am waiting for the parts from Crosman to arrive. I ordered a P Rod striker number CH2009A009 and a couple other parts plus a spring.  I need to make a pin to adjust the stroke and that is 1/4-28 threaded steel. The top is hard steel and adjusts with an Allen wrench. It measures 11/32 in length. The silver one is 1/4-28 stainless steel and adjusts with a screwdriver. I'm not sure which one I will use. I think the shorter one. The tips are ground perfectly flat and polished to a mirror finish.

[fivestar45]

I'd use the shorter allen. You don't need any more striker weight if you can avoid it.

[Racer X]

Thanks .
I'm looking forward to getting the striker and spring. It will be fun to make some noise.

[Racer X]

I received the hammer from Crosman. It has a tiny nylon pin called an acetal pin. It drops into a hole at the front of the hammer. Then the striker is threaded into it. The pin crushes and creates a resistance so the striker will not vibrate and move on it's own. I adjusted the striker until I could not feel it pushing on the valve pin. Then went one turn in. This is a starting point to adjust the stroke. I guess this will take some time to adjust. I think but don't know how this will work. I believe turning the striker in opens the valve more. This will increase velocity to a point then the velocity will stop increasing and C02 gets waisted after that.

I also cut a notch into the bottom so the sear Connot touch the hammer. Then I polished and blued the bottom of the hammer where I removed the teflon coating.

[fivestar45]

I received the hammer from Crosman. It has a tiny nylon pin called an acetal pin. It drops into a hole at the front of the hammer. Then the striker is threaded into it. The pin crushes and creates a resistance so the striker will not vibrate and move on it's own. I adjusted the striker until I could not feel it pushing on the valve pin. Then went one turn in. This is a starting point to adjust the stroke. I guess this will take some time to adjust. I think but don't know how this will work. I believe turning the striker in opens the valve more. This will increase velocity to a point then the velocity will stop increasing and C02 gets waisted after that.

I also cut a notch into the bottom so the sear Connot touch the hammer. Then I polished and blued the bottom of the hammer where I removed the teflon coating.

Nice! I wish you could have left the tef on the bottom, but just give the tube a light coating of some good light lube. Can you continue the sear relief slot closer to the bevel in the front of the striker?

[Rivers3Plinker]

I received the hammer from Crosman. It has a tiny nylon pin called an acetal pin. It drops into a hole at the front of the hammer. Then the striker is threaded into it. The pin crushes and creates a resistance so the striker will not vibrate and move on it's own. I adjusted the striker until I could not feel it pushing on the valve pin. Then went one turn in. This is a starting point to adjust the stroke. I guess this will take some time to adjust. I think but don't know how this will work. I believe turning the striker in opens the valve more. This will increase velocity to a point then the velocity will stop increasing and C02 gets waisted after that.

I also cut a notch into the bottom so the sear Connot touch the hammer. Then I polished and blued the bottom of the hammer where I removed the teflon coating.

Interesting so the intention behind this grove you cut into the bottom of the hammer is to prevent  the sear from contacting the bottom of the hammer as the hammer flies forward toward the valve after you pull the trigger. But the teflon coating would have resulted in so little friction here I'm not sure how much this benefits anything. Have you or anyone else tested results from this mod?

[Racer X]

After just a couple shots I could see where the teflon was scratching off the bottom.  I used tape to protect the teflon but the edge of the groove was not polished smooth. I did not take off the teflon at the corner of the bottom. And I was able to get a merror finish on the bottom. The teflon polished off and is not verry thick. I think this will be OK. I don't think the teflon will last anyhow.

I put in a powerlet and test fired it a couple times. First to test the trigger pull weight. And the check for leakageThat is now just over 2 lb. Its single stage and crisp. I am thinking about an archer Super Sear.

Anyone use it?

When I pull the trigger I hold it until the shot cycle is complete. I will see if there is any blueing being removed after a couple hundred shots before I do anything more to the hammer.

Now it's time to move up. Next I have to make the Transfer port and order the breech and barrel.

[Hoosier Daddy]

Even thuogh I haven't chimed in lately I am still catching every update.
Acetyl is a type of plastic. Wonder if that is what the pin is made from....Trying to digest the latest teflon description.

[Racer X]

I am using a p rod hammer. It has a nice teflon coating. I cut the groove in the bottom along the path of the sear. The groove had a slight burr along the edge so I polished the center of the bottom portion along the groove. That removed the teflon just in that area. I then blued the silver part I polished. The other sides and the edge of the bottom are still coated with teflon. I used alcohol to clean the hammer and then coated or just rubbed the piston down with oil. This left it clean and smooth.

[Hoosier Daddy]

That is more clear to me.
Thanks!

[Racer X]

Good

   I set the power adjuster to the middle of its travel. Then fired the pistol. I have no breach or barrel at this point. But it is really loud. And white vapor can out. I then backed off the stroke adjusting screw inside the hammer. One turn at a time. After about three turns it just makes a little pop. Another half turn and it does not strike the valve. I then turned the stroke adjustment screw in 1/4 turn and it just fires with a little pop. I will say this is the beginning of the adjustment.  Medium power and minimum stroke. Once I get the top finished I can adjust using the chronograph.

[Racer X]

Some very nice custom parts arrived today. The breach and bolt. Thank you Anthony!!

The breach is a lightweight aluminum model. With a left hand bolt. The bolt is brass and the cocking lever is also brass. I did a little custom work on the cocking handle to add my own personal touch. It's not a tear drop shape. More of a wine bottle than anything. And polished to a fine shine.

[fivestar45]

Some very nice custom parts arrived today. The breach and bolt. Thank you Anthony!!

The breach is a lightweight aluminum model. With a left hand bolt. The bolt is brass and the cocking lever is also brass. I did a little custom work on the cocking handle to add my own personal touch. It's not a tear drop shape. More of a wine bottle than anything. And polished to a fine shine.

Glad everything got to you quickly. Something that I forgot to mention, although you may have taken care of it already. With the rear location 4/48 breech screw you will need a small clearance groove in the top of the striker to clear the screw. Be sure to use a clamp to compress the T/P when attaching the breech to the tube, then snug down the 4/48 screw. After attaching the breech to the tube if you can slide a pc of paper between the front of the breech and the tube you will need at least one barrel band preferably at the end of the breech to hold it down. If the front of the breech is off the tube you may suffer P O I shifts.

[Buldawg76]

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[Racer X]

Thanks Anthony I did cut a small relief into the hammer for clearance.  I plan to use two bands one with grub screws top and bottom at the breach and another at the end of the tube with grub screws on the sides. Everything fits nice and tight now and works smooth. But I don't have the barrel or clamps yet. That is the next thing on the list.
I am also shopping for a scope and rings . But that is going to have to wait.

It's starting to look like something now.