Crosman 2300 S ultra build

[Racer X]

I have decided to build a Crosman 2300 S and build it up using almost no Crosman parts. Rather than go to the custom shop. Then spend more money modifying things. I decided to build up a pistol from scratch. Yes this will cost a lot. But in the end I will have a great pistol that will be built to my liking and not have any parts left over.

I will use this pistol for ten meter off hand target shooting . I want to try silhouette and my ultimate goal is Field Target hands only pistol class competition. I love field target and have enough room in my yard for a 35 meter range. So I can practice every day when the weather permits.

The basics...
I want black metal and stainless steel look. Only the trigger will be brass.
I want to use as much aluminum as I can to reduce weight.
I am going with a lothar Walther 10.1 barrel in .177 caliber.
A field target suitable scope. I need advice on that.

I will use 12 gr powerlets. I am toying with bulk fill and might go that route. But I need to do more research
 
I am going to purchase each piece one at a time. The total budget is 700.00. Nothing but the barrel cost more than 50.00. So every week or two I can order things and collect all the parts. Each piece can be fitted and I will document them here as I go.

This is a winter project and don't expect to fire a shot this year.  Any advice or comments are more than welcome.

The first part is the trigger. Brass with roller bearing . And I polished the blade.

[TheLakeRat]

I have considered the same thing. I'll be watching this thread

[bgmcgee]

Good lock on your venture.  That's pretty much what I've built as my avatar picture.  Mine is a mic of aftermarket parts and standard crosman parts. Hard to get away without using some factory parts. Here is a better picture.
upload img

[Racer X]

That is a beautiful pistol

I don't have anything agenced the factory parts. But there are better options out there so I am going with a lot of the top end choices. I really like that power adjuster. I have seen it before. Did you make that?

[bgmcgee]

That's from cothran machine shop. The tube, breech, barrel bands and power adjuster are from there. The trigger group is a 1701/p-rod.  The barrel is the lothar barrel from a 2300kt. Valve is a disco/ pro-top setup. More money than what it's worth but it is fun and shoots pretty well.

[Racer X]

Ooooo they have lots of shiney stuff!

[kj]

i think you're goin the right way by not starting with a pre-made gun. but don't discount crosman parts. i made this pistol with the exact idea of  my son using it for 10m, silhouette, and perhaps pistol field target. i used the p-rod trigger group with stainless 2-stage trigger blade from don cothran (d.c.) . no trigger mod will match the quality of the p-rod trigger, for 10m a good trigger is a must. i also had him make me a batch of square style breeches in aluminum and some in brass. i just prefer the look of the square breeches. i had the breeches anodized locally (ohio at the time) and his initials engraved. he is right handed, but i got the bolt on the left for the pistol so he doesn't have to change his grip for the cocking/loading sequence.

for 10m the normal 2240 valve is fine and can be tuned to 75 consistant shots easily. changing to a boss 12 gram valve only takes a couple minutes. i use the challenger hammer/striker/acetal pin set-up with the p-rod end cap. the end cap allows for hammer pre-load and throw adjustments to be made with no disassembly. the end cap needs drilled and tapped between the 2 holes where it would normally attach to the p-rod tube. set up as a 10m i use a 2240 spring with a couple coils cut off. for field target/silhouette i use a stiffer spring and the boss 12g valve.

it has the l.w. barrel . s.s. safety , stainless tube and gas cap and bolt by d.c.  wood by me.

if i forgot anything let me know. hope it gives you some ideas.

peace
kj

[Racer X]

Thank you very much for this information. It is very valuable and maybe a little expensive. 
I just bought a trigger. Grip frame and side plate. Now I want to order the Prod trigger. It comes with all those parts. So I guess I will have to build two guns. I can order the p rod trigger and buy a 2240. Then use what I have to biuild a 2240 that is mildly upgraded and start shooting. And use the p rod trigger as the base for my 2300S . Two guns are better than one. 

[keech1642]

Now this is of interest to me, I have a 2300s, shoots as well very well with rest . The first big improvement for me would be the trigger, for off hand. Can I buy and install a trigger from someone to smooth out the pull? Now the fact, I am not a tuner by a long sight needs to be simple install. The second would be front sight and this might be due to my glasses in other words a clearer sight picture. Was thinking a little grind to a point, may be a complete new front sight? 30 feet I use a 2 in circle with a dot a little smaller then a pencil eraser. The 2300s is straight from crosman nothing done YET. The right pellet is a big deal, I bought a sample pack from P.A. and a few cans I had.  Thank you for any information.

[Racer X]

After a little research I am going to stick with a single stage trigger. I am building a 2300 and there is a footnote about going an extra step to apply the P rod trigger. It seems simple enough to do. But I am not looking for a one pound trigger. My hands are a little harsh from 40 years as a mechanic. So I want just under two pounds. My rifle has a little over one pound and a two stage trigger. I really like that in a rifle. But I might be wrong. But I think a single stage trigger will work for me.

I have watched a number of videos and I want to try to get a super smooth single stage trigger just under two pounds with minimal travel. And if that does not work then I will go for the P rod trigger.

[Hoosier Daddy]

SUBSCRIBED!

[aPpYe]

Those pictures play tricks on the mind!  It took a while to be able to tell where one gun begins and where the other stops.  With the two blue guns next to each other like that they sort of look like some kind of futuristic modular two-barreled lazer cannon...

[Racer X]

Part number two is in. It's an aluminum trigger frame cover from Magnum Airpower. It looks super. And will be better than the factory plastic piece. I am going to paint the outside black to match the trigger frame. Then I need to fit the two pieces together so it is perfectly flush.

[keech1642]

smooth is what I am looking for, had a tune by Flying D and that was nice. Will wait to see how yours turns out.

[Racer X]

I just discovers the super sear from Adcher Airguns. I am getting mixed reviews. I might order one later and see how it workes. Anyone have any experience with it?

[Hoosier Daddy]

Part number two is in. It's an aluminum trigger frame cover from Magnum Airpower. It looks super.

Thanks for posting that. The factory plastic piece is what's been keeping me from striping smoothing, and polishing my frame.
While I could have used some silver paint on the black plastic ...it wouldn't look "right".
I might just pick up one myself   

[Racer X]

To polish the plate like chrome will be tricky. It's somewhat soft. Sand it with a 600 grit and be very careful around the bumps. I sanded my plate for paint and then thought about buffing it. I could see streaks in the metal. Going front to back. I did not put them there with the sanding.  I would try buffing first then block sand wth a 600 -1200 grit. Then buff polish and clear coat.

[Racer X]

The frame arrived today so I can get to work on the trigger group. It has all the mold lines removed but is not perfect. And it is powder coated but it will have to be redone.

[Racer X]

The first step is to fit the side plate.
It is metal so I have to first remove any powder coating from the frame that makes contact with the side plate. Then I bolted the side plate down and file then sand the two pieces so they make a near perfect fit.

I had to make the first big decision today. I want black over all. And a lot of the parts are stainless steel or blue or flat black or raw aluminum. I decided that I will build the entire pistol. And make all the finish work complete. THEN send all the parts out and have them powder coated at the same time.

I can't send out the barrel. So I will plan to powder coat the parts a dull black. The is will hopefully make everything look like gun metal. But not show fingerprints.

[Rivers3Plinker]

I think what you're doing is cool but personally I would have started with the 1701P trigger group instead of the 13xx.