Crosman 2300 S ultra build

[Rivers3Plinker]

And here's another that shows a finished set in Walnut.
Beautiful stuff.

[Underdog]

Can't wait to see this go together! You have my interest. Especially with those grip videos.

[Racer X]

I have seen his videos and that is what I was thinking of doing. I would not try to make them myself. I like grips that fit perfect to a one handed target position with a bottom shelf. Like a Hammerli.

But I think the factory grips will be good for two handed position with a seated rested position.

My new decision is the breach. Definitely want Aluminum and I don't want open sights. Even though I like them on a pistol. Field target will require a scope.

My delema is right or left hand bolt. I shoot right handed and never considered a left side bolt. But then I am thinking I can load and cock the gun with out moving my right hand. This might be a good thing.

[AmBraCol]

My delema is right or left hand bolt. I shoot right handed and never considered a left side bolt. But then I am thinking I can load and cock the gun with out moving my right hand. This might be a good thing.

As you are building a target pistol and you are right handed, it makes a LOT of sense to get the "left handed breech".  It makes it much handier and doesn't require you shift your grip for each shot.

[Hoosier Daddy]

That is one thing I wish I had done different with my build.
Even though I read a right hand bolt/breech isn't nescessarily mean for a right handed person.

[AmBraCol]

That is one thing I wish I had done different with my build.
Even though I read a right hand bolt/breech isn't nescessarily mean for a right handed person.

I run my 2240 with the bolt on the right hand side OK, but it doesn't have target grips.  My IZH 46M has target grips and all the controls (open breech, pump, insert pellet, close breech) are done with my left hand. No need to release my grip with my right hand.  In theory it produces a more consistent grip and thus more consistency from shot to shot.  I'm still studying on which breech to use for my continuing 2240 build.  The possibliity is that I'll use my Crooked Barn breech and replace the Mellon Air flow through bolt for one that will allow me to place the bolt handle on the left side.  Plus there's a good chance I'll keep it 22 this time and the flow through bolt I have is .177.  Any way you look at it, the bolt on the left is handier for a right hander and the standard bolt on the right is handier for a southpaw or for a right handed rifle/carbine build.

[Wayne52]

Here's the grips that I ordered when I ordered my 2300KT, they're nice grips but I've also been carving on a pair that will be more compact for carrying in a holster.  I heard a while back that Crosman's supplier for these grips isn't doing it anymore, I haven't checked the grips available through their kit guns lately.

[Racer X]

I installed a travel stop for the trigger.
It is an 8-32 stainless grub screw. Sharpened ,rounded and polished. It is flush and smooth with the bottom of the trigger guard. The stop is set to the point the sear just clears the bottom of the manin tube. Now the trigger has a super small amount of smooth travel.

Drilling the hole caused the paint to chip. I don't know why I can't get paint to stick to this frame. I have tried cleaning sanding and primer and a couple different paints. It is just not working out. I'm just going to go with sand blasted for now.

[aPpYe]

Careful with the clearance ... You may discover that you need to back it off a little more if power is low or ES is high ...

[Racer X]

 I believe the important thing is to keep the sear from touching the hammer. I assume it's important to hold the trigger until the shot cycle is complete. I don't want to tap the trigger. But squeezing the trigger like follow through with a springier


I got some more parts today. The power adjuster from Cothran Machine shop arrived today.

[Hoosier Daddy]

Drilling the hole caused the paint to chip. I don't know why I can't get paint to stick to this frame. I have tried cleaning sanding and primer and a couple different paints. It is just not working out. I'm just going to go with sand blasted for now.

Personally I think the blasted frame and the same treatment to that aluminum side plate would look awesome with some black grips.
 

[Racer X]

Ya that is what I need, black grips and the silver frame. It is definitely a good look and very durable. I put a little paint on the power adjuster just to see how it would look

[Hoosier Daddy]

I want a power adjuster from Alchemy for mine but am still a little unclear to their function... unless to allows me to dial it down to conserve CO2.
Or can I crank it up to get more from my 2300KT?

[AmBraCol]

I believe the important thing is to keep the sear from touching the hammer. I assume it's important to hold the trigger until the shot cycle is complete. I don't want to tap the trigger. But squeezing the trigger like follow through with a springier


I got some more parts today. The power adjuster from Cothran Machine shop arrived today.

Do those allow you to swap springs without removing the whole kit and kaboodle?  That's what I like about the one I got from Mellon Air, remove the adjuster, slide out one spring, slide in the other one.  What it DOESN'T have is a lock screw to keep it from moving after adjusted - but so far that's not been an issue, not that I've shot it a lot since installing.

[AmBraCol]

I want a power adjuster from Alchemy for mine but am still a little unclear to their function... unless to allows me to dial it down to conserve CO2.
Or can I crank it up to get more from my 2300KT?

The power adjuster allows you to change the amount of preload on the spring.  Some, like Mellon Air's offering, allow you to swap springs by just removing the screw in part and sliding in a different spring then replacing the screw.  Right now I've got the one in my 2240 just barely touching the spring, zero preload.  This gives me well over 40 shots per cartridge, 50 IIRC. I've not run it over the chronograph yet, but for punching paper it works dandy.  By increasing the preload you can increase velocity, to a point. Of  course one also can then run through a LOT more CO2 than before as well.  Some are going with the SSG instead of the RVA as it also eliminates hammer bounce, leading to even better conservation of CO2.

[Racer X]

I used some Birchwood Casey super blue. I faded out the etching that said it is not a toy and the web page stuff. I left the cereal number and the caliber information. I also used it on the frame. The frame is an odd alloy. it just soaked it up and turned a soft black. Its very consistent and does not rub off. I painted the metal side cover. I never had problems with the paint on that. The grips will cover most of the frame anyhow.

Next I used some valve grinding paist on the threads of the power adjuster. There was s slight gritty feeling. After cleaning out the grinding paste. I applied a very thick grease to the threads. This left the power adjuster super super smooth. With a little resistance. It feels very nice. 

[AmBraCol]

I used some Birchwood Casey super blue. I faded out the etching that said it is not a toy and the web page stuff. I left the cereal number and the caliber information. I also used it on the frame. The frame is an odd alloy. it just soaked it up and turned a soft black. Its very consistent and does not rub off. I painted the metal side cover. I never had problems with the paint on that. The grips will cover most of the frame anyhow.

Next i used some valve grinding paist on the threads of the power adjuster. There was s slight gritty feeling. After cleaning out the grinding paste. I applied a very thick grease to the threads. This left the power adjuster super super smooth. With a little resistance. I feels very nice.

I'd never have thought of using bluing on the frame as it's non-ferrous.  Now I'm curious as to what it looks like, looking forward to the next photo shoot.  That's a good tip for the threads on the power adjuster, may give it a try myself. 

[Racer X]

I changed the power adjuster. All the other parts are brass. And the stainless adjuster looked odd. Also I was thinking about the discussion earlier regarding a lock nut. So I ordered this off E bay.
I painted the base part to match the main tube. But left the adjusting knob and lock ring brass.   

[Racer X]

I received a very nice gift today from Hoosier Daddy. A set of grips! They are in perfect shap and fit perfectly.
Thanks so much Scott.

[Racer X]

This completes the bottom end. I like the brass accents. Now I am moving on to the main tube. Lots of custom work going on in there. This will be the most exciting part of the build I think.