Crosman 2300 S ultra build

[Racer X]

After a lot of thought and web searching I decided to go with a factory finish. I found a main tube from a 2300T. It has all the markings etched into it. Unlike the stamped tube from the 2240. I kinda like that.

After a couple frustrating attempts at painting the frame I found appliance epoxy paint. It is super strong. Is fairly scratch resistant and I can repair it . The grips will cover most of it anyhow. That will save powder coating.
The main tube won't need coating. I can't coat the barrel. The breach comes powder coated so that is it. No more flipping through images of pistols trying to decide on a finish. I do want slotted black screws and I will paint the power adjuster black.

Friday I will order the main tube and it's components.

[keech1642]

1701p from where? thanks

[AmBraCol]

1701p from where? thanks

Crosman parts

[keech1642]

the smoother the pull on any air gun, make you a much better shot with your 380, 9mm, .45, 45lcolt . at a lot less cost. But printing a small group still makes you feel really special even out in the garage all alone.

[Racer X]

The trigger is as smooth as I can get it.  I used Pellgunoil spairingly on all the pivots and the roller in the trigger blade. The two springs are set in notches so they can't slide. Everything is lined up and none of the moving parts touch the frame. The original spring had three pounds of pull. That's with out any hammer or anything on the shear. Now with all the parts finished and lubed it is at 8oz.

I'm looking forward to the next phase. That is the main tube. After that is the valving. I'm putting in a custom rally ported valve from Alchemy Airworks. Also a custom Stainless steel hammer. The power adjuster will come from Cothran.

[fivestar45]

If shot to shot consistency is important you might want to use a Disco valve body and stem in conjunction with a Pro-Top. Using a Pro-Top will enable the use of a harder stem, and loosing the OEM 2240 stem mounted piercing pin makes  a noticeable difference.

[Rivers3Plinker]

If shot to shot consistency is important you might want to use a Disco valve body and stem in conjunction with a Pro-Top. Using a Pro-Top will enable the use of a harder stem, and loosing the OEM 2240 stem mounted piercing pin makes  a noticeable difference.

This is interesting please provide more information on why the disco valve body? Must it be used with the Pro-Top because of design of the Pro-Top? And where does one source a Pro-Top? Also why is the harder stem better and what is the noticeable difference, flater variance in FPS per shot or something? Do you get greater shot count with a reduced extreme spread in FPS?

[MRT949]

NICE BUILD

[fivestar45]

If shot to shot consistency is important you might want to use a Disco valve body and stem in conjunction with a Pro-Top. Using a Pro-Top will enable the use of a harder stem, and loosing the OEM 2240 stem mounted piercing pin makes  a noticeable difference.

This is interesting please provide more information on why the disco valve body? Must it be used with the Pro-Top because of design of the Pro-Top? And where does one source a Pro-Top? Also why is the harder stem better and what is the noticeable difference, flater variance in FPS per shot or something? Do you get greater shot count with a reduced extreme spread in FPS?

OK here's why I use the disco valve body and stem with the Pro-Top
The brass 22xx valve would be the better body IF it was made with better QC, and had a better tube to anchor screw fit. If you look at MOST 22xx valve body seats with a 10x loop, most of the ones that I've examined had some nicks or scratches in the seat. These will not seal a harder (Disco) valve stem reliably. They do seal ok with the soft OEM 2240 stem. Which you will notice after some use will have a fairly deep ring pressed into it from seat contact. Why use a harder stem? The best response time, and least amount of "Masking" (minimum seat contact ring) is achieved by using the hardest stem that will still seal. This gets more gas through the valve using the same lift, and dwell time, as there is more gas flow earlier, and later in the lift cycle. The reason for this, because the stem doesn't get as deep a groove in it complying to the seat. That groove actually  masks the seat and shortens the valves full flow capability time. Now we're dealing probably with micro secs, but the whole function of the guns cycle is probably measured in the same micro secs. The more control, output, and consistency of the valves operation makes your efforts to improve performance of the gun, go better.
  Next, if you've noticed, the OEM 22xx valve body uses a 6-40 anchor screw that has a loose, sloppy fit to the tube. The reason for this I believe is so the woman on the Crosman assembly line can get a reasonably inexpensive gun together more quickly. Stabilizing the valve in the tube is also going to make a favorable difference in shot to shot consistency.
The OEM Disco valve body (also the Boss Disco valve body) has 3- 8/32 anchor screws that secure it to the tube, for the 22xx on 12g powerlets all you'll be concerned with is using the one bottom hole.
Now the following is a simple way to make a precision fit anchor screw. (Assuming that a lathe is not available) Because there is potential danger of Bodily Harm inherent with the use of power tools, or the final installation of the screw I AM NOT TELLING YOU TO DO THIS if you choose to go forward, I ASSUME NO RESPONSIBILITY..That said,  buy an 8-32 x 3/4" button head allen screw from a local Ace hd'wr, chuck it in an electric drill and while spinning it hold a file to the head and "turn" it down until the head is a snug fit to the hole in the tube. This procedure will secure the valve far better than the loose, sloppy fit 6-40 screw that holds the OEM valve body to the tube. After trimming the head down, cut the screw off with a Dremel
and cut off wheel leaving 3/16" of thread. The last thing is to check to see after assembling the valve in the tube is to see if there is any interference with the new screw head and the trigger frame, if there is  just relieve the frame a bit with a rotary burr in a Dremel so it clears.
If you are using a breech that mounts with the 4/48 screw in the forward location. The Disco valve body will need a small notch Dremeled in it to clear the screw.
Now,there is an easier alternative to this that yields results that are CLOSE to the above.
Buy from Crosman a P'rod valve anchor screw #1700-010

O K..that's the Why. If anyone needs more info on the benefits of the Pro-Top itself, just ask.
Anthony

[bgmcgee]

This is what I've done with my 22xx guns per Anthony's instructions.  It works great and his pro-tops are top shelf.

[Racer X]

Thank you very much for this information. Is there a source for the pro top or is it all hand made ? And I guess the peorcing pin would have to be eliminated also.

[fivestar45]

Thank you very much for this information. Is there a source for the pro top or is it all hand made ? And I guess the peorcing pin would have to be eliminated also.

Yes, if using the oem valve body and stem the piercing pin gets cut off right where it meets the brass. If using the Disco valve body, and stem no mod's to the stem are needed.
Pro-Top's are available. PM me for info.

[Racer X]

I got the main tube and end cap in today from Aliance Hobby I really like the lettering being etched in and not stamped. The blue end cap is a perfect color match. And the threads are super smooth.

I also got the brass safety and spring today from Alchemy Airwerks. I have to give a shout out of thanks to these guys. Fantastic service and products. I placed the orders on Thursday night around 10 pm and the parts are in the mail box Monday. You can't ask for better service.

[Hoosier Daddy]

I agree 100% about Alchemyairwerks. Dave is excellent to deal with.
Reminds me I need to throw him some more business.

[Wayne52]

One thing that I found to work really good on my 22xx's is using an old kitchen hone stone for polishing all the contact points on the seer, it really makes the trigger smooth.  The only other thing I've considered was to buy a Marauder pistol trigger group, however after using my present trigger in my modified 2240 even at higher pressures it really is working good for what I use it for which is mainly hunting.

[Rivers3Plinker]

One thing that I found to work really good on my 22xx's is using an old kitchen hone stone for polishing all the contact points on the seer, it really makes the trigger smooth.  The only other thing I've considered was to buy a Marauder pistol trigger group, however after using my present trigger in my modified 2240 even at higher pressures it really is working good for what I use it for which is mainly hunting.

Hey another SW Michigan airgunner!
You own a Prod so you know first hand how the two triggers compare.

Another tip for the OP,  spend some time polishing the chamfered face at the bottom of the weight where the sear contacts it if you haven't already. After some fine grit sanding, I polish all these parts using an old 3/4hp electric motor with a buffing wheel on it and red rouge compound. You can do it with a dremel and felt bobs and wheels too but that hammer weight is hardened and takes more work to get it really smooth. I think this area makes a big difference in the feel of the pull, especially after lubing with dry slide or your prefered formula lube.

[Racer X]

Thanks, yes the sear and trigger are polished. I bought the trigger and sear from Alchemy and it is already polished. The trigger has a roller and it is all super smooth.
I had plans to do this work. I have a knife sharpening system I comes with a clamp that holds the stones and shear in an exact angle. It is made to sharpen knives and worked really well for small parts.

I got thenparts together and it is starting to look like a pistol now.

[Hoosier Daddy]

Did we talk about grips yet?
I coulda swore I remembered you were thinking of using factory grips but I can't see any reference to them now after skimming back through the first pages.
If that is the case I have the black plastic ones I took off my PC77 you can have if you want them. They are the older style but feel pretty nice and are new take-offs. Alchemy also sells a Pachmyer over-grip for this style as well.HERE
Mine look just like these...

[Racer X]

I'm on the fence about the grips. I want target grips and will probably have a custom set made. I am thinking about it for now.

[Rivers3Plinker]

I'm on the fence about the grips. I want target grips and will probably have a custom set made. I am thinking about it for now.

I want a set as well.
The factory grips are fine but too small for my hands and nowhere near what I would like on my 1377.
I plan to make some eventually and even bought a spindle sander a few weeks ago. Haven't had time to even get it setup yet.
There's a guy on Youtube with a channel Mountain Storm. He makes custom ones from Walnut and shows how he makes them.
There may be forum vendors that make them but I haven't looked into that. I just watch the videos this guy makes and try to learn how he does it.
He starts with blocks of hardwood about 4.5x4.5x1.25 and then cuts away .125 areas on one side for the grip mount. He drills holes for the screws and the safety and then traces out the grip frame shape on the other side. He uses forstner bits and a band saw to rough cut cut the thumb and lower finger rest areas of the hand and shape the grips then the spindle sander does the rest of the work.
They are amazing looking. This video is the one I've watched a half dozen times but he has others that better illustrate the process. Eventually I will post my project in the wood working section.
By the way, this guy does make them to order for people based on what he's saying in his videos. I have watched a number of them.