GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Weihrauch Airguns => Topic started by: Cslinger on January 05, 2015, 11:48:10 PM
-
I have a .22 HW95 that has always shot harshly but I never really paid much mind to it. Recently I have started spending more time with it and have noticed that I believe it is shooting very under powered.
Now I don't have a chrony so all of this is gut/seat of pants but bear with me.
I also have a marvelous HW30s in .22 If I fire both into a block of duct seal from the same distance using the same pellets the 30s will bury its round noticeably deeper in the seal. Considering the 30s should only be slinging them at around 400 fps and the HW95 should be somewhere around 700fps something seems off.
So what is my best course of action?
Thanks,
Chris
-
HW has a lifetime warranty. Where did you buy it and how long ago?
-
depends on where you bought thru shipping is gonna cost you almost as much as a seal and tune kit
The HW sold via that AZ dealer :( have a lifetime warranty if sold after a certain date
If they don't support you well make sure you email and tell....
Write to Hans Weihrauch at: info@weihrauch-sport.de
if it was AOA good luck let us know how they treat you
-
AoA I have emailed them.
Is it worth me tearing it down and putting in a tune kit? If so what would be best for smoothness vs sheer power?
-
As an aside I have done a fair bit of business with AoA and never had a problem. Always polite, always knowledgeable always.......well slow to ship but at least consistent. Of course that was as a buyer not somebody Looking for warranty work.
-
As an aside I have done a fair bit of business with AoA and never had a problem. Always polite, always knowledgeable always.......well slow to ship but at least consistent. Of course that was as a buyer not somebody Looking for warranty work.
two camps with that dealer 1. extremely happy customers when all goes smoothly 2. many that had out of box failures and left upset by dealer reactions. No real middle ground customers
I would see what shipping costs in both directions to use warranty then price out JM or Vortek kit and spring. If you feel comfortable installing kit then if its close I would myself just do the kit. Nobody really will be as careful as the owner when working on the rifle. Some owners have two left hands and cannot work on them at all so for them a warranty repair is a mandatory item
-
nice quick check to see if breech is sealing well. If it blows the paper off when fired its leaking and will always be harsh. Might be easy fix no need for mail or a kit
.22 HW barrels have read about some being on the larger side of internal diameter and pellets fitting real loose same effect low power and harsh
-
Hmmmm now that is food for thought. I never thought about a loose chamber. Mine has always felt loose but not hot dog thrown down a tunnel loose so to speak. That would explain the harshness of the firing cycle.
Ok so lets say I decide what the heck and tear this thing apart myself. I am fairly familiar with taking firearms down a spring gun cannot be that hard.............said right before "Hey ya'll watch this." but I digress.
So can I source another HW barrel (Want the sights, don't want the Beeman clean barrel) I figure if I do go through the effort to do this should I just replace the insides as well with one of the tuner kits? Let's assume money isn't the big hang up within reason. (I figure a barrel should cost what a hundred bucks or so. What does a tuner kit cost another 100??) I haven't really researched this yet.
So assuming I just decide to re-barrel, what tuner kit would be recommended assuming that I am not a MORE POWWWWWAAAA!!! kind of air gun guy. I am a smooth accurate kind of guy. I know there are several folks who make several kits and I am vaguely aware that some are about power and some are about smoothness. I might just make this a little project.
Also what if any lubrication should be used inside the compression chamber. I know we don't want to use anything flammable. Would something like silicon from the hardware store work or am I going to want to get some kind of specialty 87.95 a per 2 oz tube kind of thing. :D
Sorry for the questions I am sort of leaning towards making this a project for the fun/learning experience vs. the hassle of shipping the entire rifle etc. and I am in the shallow end of the pool as far as the mechanics involved with air guns. I can turn a screw and punch a pin with the best of them though..........."Hey ya'll..........I digress again. :D
Thanks much for the heads up and suggestions.
Chris
-
Lot's of stuff to talk about here.
Your best bet for a new barrel is to hook up with a Canadian GTA member and have them buy it for you from Specialty Shooting in Canada. Best prices, best selection. If you go that route, then it will be about $100. Otherwise, you can browse the Pyramyd Air site and see if they offer any that you like.
As for the kits, you can either go with Vortek or Maccari, both are excellent. You'll get recommendations for both, it's a Ford vs. Chevy type of thing. Personally I prefer Maccari, but not for any real reason other than I like and respect Jim Maccari. Vortek has excellent products and excellent customer service, so you really can't go wrong with either. The prices are comparable.
Lubes are best sourced from Maccari, unless you go with Krytox. From Maccari, you'll need moly, and one of his tars (clear, Euro, heavy black). I believe he offers a kit with all his lubes for one price...everything you need for a re-build. For Krytox, you should read up on how it's being used (it's the new kid on the block for lubing airguns) and you'll probably have to buy it online at Ebay or Amazon. It's not cheap.
I'd recommend a tear-down, clean and lube-tune before scrapping the barrel. Check the breech seals like Tom suggested, and when it's torn down check the piston seal for any problems.
For the barrel, you can push a pellet through the bore with a small-diameter dowel to see how loose the fit is. That should give you a better idea if the bore is the source of the harshness you're experiencing. If the bore seems oversized, maybe try a larger diameter pellet than the ones you're currently using.
-Paul
-
Hi Paul. You stated "As for the kits, you can either go with Vortek or Maccari, both are excellent." From reading user reviews both companies sell awesome springer kits and have top notch customer service/warranty.
If installed in the same exact rifle do both kits offer the same FPS/FPE in both 177 and 22 caliber? My question is strictly out of curiosity.
-
;D As others have posted JM and Vortek = ford and chevy I have the Vortek SHO in my TX200 MK III and a HO in my Diana 460 my D34 P has a JM kit all 3 springers perform smooth and accurate no issues either way in my book. As far as doing the tune at home if you have the time and patience to do it right you will be happy with the end result
-
If you decide to do your own tune, this link may be of help...
http://www.freewebs.com/stripdowns/hw9895kstrip.htm (http://www.freewebs.com/stripdowns/hw9895kstrip.htm)
Since AoA does carry some spare HW parts, you might ask about a spare barrel. Also ARH (Maccari) seems to be able to obtain
HW items so you might check with him too.
Good Luck.
-
I would like to see results of the tissue test I am hoping you would get lucky. Do the top side with sheet of toilet paper then dont forget bottom side. You could also dust the area with talc powder inside a section of panty hose it will be obvious if it leaking.
The barrels from SSSO have been cut off from US sales because AOA complained to HW to stop US sales from SSSO. So you have to get it mailed to a Canada friend then re-mailed to US what a PITA. SSSO was a much better rep for HW they stock barrel and maint. parts on the shelf I bet AOA does not.
I would do the tissue test then check pellet to bore fit if loose I would want a warranty fix(new barrel) maybe you could just mail in action no stock to save on shipping costs??? I would hate to tear into it and lose warranty if not needed. What scares me was there was talk of some production runs in the not to distant past having pitted compression tubing steel from factory.
I am praying you find a leaking breech seal to avoid any frustrating process with the dealer and repair. If any hassle from dealer i would make sure I wrote to HW AFTER it was done about service quality.
Check this thread for background on that http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=77536.0 (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=77536.0)
I have used both kits Vortek seems to be higher power results and Tom Gore will call you back on questions about installation if needed. JM is not as user friendly but has a great kit and best lubes. Krytox is interesting stuff I have tried it ZERO dieseling it cannot chemically support combustion. If its your first kit install I would do Vortek because of support you just have to be careful to not damage outer Vortek kit sleeve when it start into piston skirt
let use know how tissue / talc powder test came out
-
So just so I know exactly what I am doing.
I drape a square of tissue / TP over where the breech meets the receiver. Fire (with pellet loaded obviously). Now my particular 95 has a pretty harsh cycle so will I be looking for a pretty obvious puff upwards of the tissue?
If this is the case is the breech seal a fairly straightforward fix as it looks like it is seated in there really well.
Thanks again everybody. This is all very helpful on more fronts then just working through this particular issue.
One more thing. Could a bad breech seal cause a harsh firing cycle???
-
yes with well fitting pellet ...yes sure can cause harshness as there is little load to slow piston down and it slams into end of chamber
If it leaking the BLAST of air will move the tissue quite well
The tissue test work I like the dusted with powder but it leaves a clean up mess
the seal just pulls out (on old ones for sure) and the seal should catch ya finger nail above breech surface but too far out or lockup wanders poi. High enough to seal, low enough to not wander poi. Dont know if ya have the older style or the new one ....is it donut looking or a star shape ? The newer rifle have star shaped area around seal I think the seal might be the same as old ones but have not seen one in person to know or not
-
Well I will let you know what I find tonight. I did, however, order 3 breech seals just to keep on hand as a preventive measure since the same seal seems to work across the line.
Stupid question. Since the breech seal seems like it is nothing more then a harder composite o-ring of sorts are their hardware store equivalents that could be sourced. I don't mean like a standard soft rubber o-ring but possibly something designed for higher pressure applications? I ask because if I find any indication of leaking it might be interesting to find a temporary solution just to see what kind of difference is made.
Chris
-
maybe i missed it but, why is it? you think you need a new barrel and not just spring and seals?
-
That wasn't my first step but part of my thought process as I do feel my barrel is a little loose fitting for pellets and would explain the harshness of the firing cycle.
I am going to test the breech seal/tinker with that. Then possibly move up to a tear down and then if need be look at the barrel. I might just warranty it but I find the tinkering fairly fun an entertaining.
Chris
-
As an aside what kind of damage occurs when an spring air gun is fired without a pellet?? I know this is a definite no go for spring guns but not sure what specifically the break point would be.
I understand the spring and piston will fly forward with a higher velocity / force due to the lack of back pressure cushion but other then said piston smacking the steel wall of the front of the tube what kind of actual damage occurs. Does the piston (which seems like a fairly robust part) suffer the damage? Does the piston seal superheat / melt deform or something? Does the spring over extend causing it to exceed its spring properties or snap??
Yes I know I am now using this thread as an academic one. Sorry about that.
-
While HW may indeed have a lifetime warranty, doubtful SPRING is covered being it is a consumable wearing out and suffers fatigue from use.
Fresh spring or kit, Lube tune and such would be my choice over screwing around for freebee warranty work.
JMO ...
-
we just did a vortek on my almost new 95 and found the seal cracked and burnt, i had a couple detonations but never dry fired it, dry firing can break the spring or damage the seal. gun feels beautiful after the vortek kit.
have you done a tissue test to see if the breech seal is ok?
-
Not yet. Will do the tissue test tonight. If seal is fine I will probably break it down all the way to see what the what is.
Can I assume a Vortec kit consists of a spring, guide, piston seal and piston???? Can I also assume it is more or less just a simple disassemble, dump the tube contents and replace with new contents? Just lube the spring with something applicable?
Chris
-
Not yet. Will do the tissue test tonight. If seal is fine I will probably break it down all the way to see what the what is.
Can I assume a Vortec kit consists of a spring, guide, piston seal and piston???? Can I also assume it is more or less just a simple disassemble, dump the tube contents and replace with new contents? Just lube the spring with something applicable?
Chris
Vortek PG2 kits come with ...
Spring and there propitiatory Twin guide/Buffer set up. ( It as already assembled as a drop in )
Small tub of synesthetic spring grease.
Piston Seal
Thats it ... no actual Piston replacement happens. No Tuning wear buttons, Moly grease etc ... are in the kit.
-
well, mine wasn't so simple. some parts were too tight and had to be made a little smaller.
-
Well you know.........if it jams force it. If it breaks you needed a new one anyway. :D
-
Ok figured it out. I have a small divit / chunk missing from the piston seal. Which leads me to my embarrassing moment........................I have broken this thing totally down with little effort........................................how the heck do I get the seal off?????
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/ferris47/IMG_8391_zps2c23ffcc.jpg)
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/ferris47/IMG_8392_zpsb14cb2ae.jpg)
-
;D Set a small pot of water to boil that will soften the plastic enough to easily remove the seal do the same thing thing to install new seal
-
What caused the divit?
-
I do not know. Nothing in the tube seems to have caused it.
So heat and remove.
Thanks,
Chris
-
So now that I have this "dang" thing apart do I buy a tuning kit or just replace the seal???
Thanks,
Chris
-
If I go the tune route will this be pretty much all I need.
Hornet MK6-R9,10,11-HW95-85 FAC. Kit
$79.00 × $79.00
[NEW-SGS R6,R9,10,77-97,HW 85-95,98, 99, New 50S-Piston Seals]
NEW-SGS R6,R9,10,77-97,HW 85-95,98, 99, New 50S-Piston Seals 1.024-25 inch tight seal
$15.00 × $15.00
Lubricant Package Deal
$23.00 × $23.00
-
Ok figured it out. I have a small divit / chunk missing from the piston seal. Which leads me to my embarrassing moment........................I have broken this thing totally down with little effort........................................how the heck do I get the seal off?????
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/ferris47/IMG_8391_zps2c23ffcc.jpg)
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/ferris47/IMG_8392_zpsb14cb2ae.jpg)
My question would be how do I get it back together. :-[
-
Pesky details. I don't imagine I will have more than two maybe three extra pieces left over when I am done.....................
-
;D ;D Sounds like a line from the movie Doc Hollywood
-
You will figure it out. I just took my first HW apart (R11) over the weekend and put a JM kit in it. I will say that HWs, though a nicely made gun, are more involved than my RWS or AA with the one piece trigger unit. HW goes thru a lot more trouble to accomplish the same thing. I don't know why they can't make their Rekkord trigger into a single unit like others manufacturers are doing.
I would go ahead and replace spring and all while you are in there. It will be a better shooting rifle. And use Krytox. It will be cheaper to order some Krytox 226 (or Ultimox 226 same thing, they call it Ultimox in Europe) as you don't need much and is the only lube you need. I just saw a 3/4 oz jar of Ultimox 226 on ebay for $17. You could do several rifles with that.
-
Ok figured it out. I have a small divit / chunk missing from the piston seal. Which leads me to my embarrassing moment........................I have broken this thing totally down with little effort........................................how the heck do I get the seal off?????
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/ferris47/IMG_8391_zps2c23ffcc.jpg)
(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/ferris47/IMG_8392_zpsb14cb2ae.jpg)
I pry em off with a fiberglass auto trim pry bar leaves no damages to piston button
http://www.harborfreight.com/Nylon-Pry-Bar-Installer-Kit-4-Pc-69668.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/Nylon-Pry-Bar-Installer-Kit-4-Pc-69668.html)
geesh with a chunk that big they should have never sent that rifle out when the power checked low...then again they will do that the check is worthless from them
inside of tube not pitted looks fine???
-
Notch in seal .... Comes from Nick in the seals lip likely done during assembly.
* It is actually eroded by the hot fast exiting of compressed air going out past the seal NOT exiting behind pellet.
-
Yep best I can tell inside of the tube looks good.
So if I order the above stuff it all should be correct?
-
that list will work lubes seal and kit. I liked the Krytox in my HW77.
you could if the twangs not real bad if short on cash just get lubes and new seal as well
-
Appreciate it very much.
You know I toyed with the idea of just replacing the seal and I might but a little part of me is thinking I have this thing tore down and It was always a little harsh cocking why not just do the full monte'
Now I just need parts and the ability to get it back together. I am trying to figure out how the safety acts on the trigger pack. That is the only piece that I am not quite sure how it works.
Thanks all,
Chris
-
Well I took the plunge and ordered all the JM stuff. I will keep everybody in the loop as to how the re-assembly goes. I am sure I will have more questions but I just wanted to thank everybody as your advice has been invaluable.
So in my head the lube will be going something this.
-Use the tar on the spring, All the way around all coils
-Use the Moly fairly liberally on the piston body and on the outside of the piston seal. (Not the front) just the sides
-Use the Moly on the spring guide
-Use the moly or whatever gun grease I have on the pivot points (cocking arm, barrel pivots etc.)
-A drop of moly on the sear/dis-connector
-Put it all back together give her a wipe down.
-Chase impossibly tiny spring around room trying to find it on carpet behind furniture with flashlight.
-Curse like drunken sailer
-Try to determine what those two extra pieces were for.............
Do I need to put any coating of lube(moly) on the inside of the compression tube itself or should I leave it dry.
Thanks again.
Chris
-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4f4MzG-UoBQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4f4MzG-UoBQ)
this may be helpful.
-
Glad you got it sorted out.
Couple tips for you: when installing the new piston seal, use the cap from a bottle of thread-locker. It's a long cone-shape, and you slide the seal up the cone until it pops off onto your piston. The small bottles of Lock-Tight have the correct size caps. Works like a charm.
Take great care when inserting the piston back into the compression tube...if you nick the seal you're right back where you started.
Regarding Krytox, just make sure you clean every last trace of existing lube out of the rifle before applying the Krytox. As one of our members here is fond of saying (Ed Canoles), Krytox "doesn't play well with others".
Other than that, it sounds like you should be good to go.
-Paul
-
Perfect guys. Thanks again. Hopefully will have everything I need by Saturday.
I can totally see how one, especially on an assembly line, could nick / take a chunk out of seal putting into the compression tube. Until it gets in front of the cut out for the other components there is a fair bit of stuff that could gouge that thing.
As an aside I got a reply from AoA within 24 hours of my email saying to send it in and they would take care of it or call a specific person if I wanted to talk through it. Just for giggles I am going to see if I can just get them to send me piston seal to keep on hand. All in all my experience with them has been good even though I realize it is a bit of Russian roulette when playing with them but I have bought a fair bit of stuff from them and other then slowish shipping I have no complaints. They at least replied to my email in a timely manner and were willing to take it back in no questions asked so I cannot really ask for more than that. If they kick me a free piston seal all the better. If not such is life.
At any rate I tell everybody that dealing with AoA can be a crapshoot but all in all I have managed to roll sevens most of the time. I do wish Pyramyd or Straight Shooters carried more of the Weihrauch stuff.
Chris
-
Appreciate it very much.
You know I toyed with the idea of just replacing the seal and I might but a little part of me is thinking I have this thing tore down and It was always a little harsh cocking why not just do the full monte'
Now I just need parts and the ability to get it back together. I am trying to figure out how the safety acts on the trigger pack. That is the only piece that I am not quite sure how it works.
Thanks all,
Chris
Only TRICK there is PRE-COCK the trigger mechanics when placing back into receiver slot, Depress safety plunger as you align pin holes and replace pins. Then squeeze trigger to release the mechanics. Cock-N-Rock from there !!
-
No updates on the rifle rebuild but an update on AoA.
Once again I have played Russian Roulette with them and come out on top. I have to honestly say I have been very pleased with their response to this situation. Just to give you a summary....
- I emailed them about possible issue
- I received email back within 24 hours indicating that would happily fix it. They also gave me a direct contact in case I wanted to talk through anything / tech support etc.
-I emailed them back telling them I decided to do the tear down etc. myself and that I found that I likely had a bad piston seal from the factory. I asked them if they could simply send me a seal and I would take care of it.
-I got an email back within 24 hours saying they would be happy to send me seal and to just give them the address where I wanted it shipped.
Honestly I don't feel like I could have asked for better service all in all. Communication was quick and polite. Options to fix my problem were given. Once I determined what the problem was they are shipping me the part to fix no muss no fuss.
So all in all so far I have been happy with my dealings with AoA with my only complaint besides their website from 1992 being that they tend to ship slow.
For anybody reading this who doesn't know the score dealing with AoA seems to be a hit or miss thing with folks. I just happen to have always gotten the "empty chamber" in the numerous times I have dealt with them. YMMV.
But for this interaction I have no complaints. As for them letting the gun out the door to begin with my guess is the seal had a nick or some kind of tear from the factory. It probably shot a tad slow on their testing string but nothing hugely outside of the norm. As I have shot it the tear has most likely gotten worse to where I have really noticed it now. So I don't even fault them for shipping it.
-
glad its all working out....
better response than many ...maybe consumers are starting to hold their feet to fire and they gonna improve
I still will never do business with them after the steamroller job they did to SSSO
-
I don't blame you one bit. I always find it funny how a particular outfit can engender the love/hate response.
There is a Firearms dealer very well know, very good prices blah blah that everybody loves. I CANNOT STAND THEM. Will never do business with them again. Had rude interactions with them, lied to etc. etc. Yet plenty of other folks have great experiences.
Weird how things can be so 180 degrees different from one day to the next, one person to the next.
Chris
-
My experiences with them have been great. Lot's of things are out of their control but so far I have been impressed with their end of things.
-
So I just read the whole shooting sports thread etc. Business is in business to make money but from what LITTLE knowledge I have I do agree there does seem to be some heavy handed attempts to corner markets.
So after my experience with the HW95 I decided to do a test of my other rifles. I don't own a Chrony so I improvised. Loaded all the rifles with the same pellet .22 or .177 and shot a shot into a clean brick of duct seal. Once I had them all fired all the .177 on one brick all the .22 on the other I did some depth tests to check for penetration. I am happy to report my SWAG science experiment seems to play out that all the rifles are shooting as they should. For example the HW97 really buried a pellet while the HW35e was only slightly less deep. The 30s not as deep and similar to the Slavia 631. The Slavia 634 put them just about as deep a the 35 as it should. So basically they all planted just about the way they should have based on published velocity.
Not perfect, not super scientific but a good SWAG.
-
the 97 with the sliding compression chamber tend to be faultless since you can control the quality better on its machined compression chamber better than way down inside a piece of tubing for break barrel. Every now and then bad lot of tubing gets thru to production on break barrels that's why I asked you if it had any pitting internally
I have both a 77 and 97 ...I wanted a HW80K carbine model in .20 in stock and on SSSO shelf but since the market grab by AOA I cannot call and order it. Ad the fact that that model is not even stocked by AOA EVER so yeah I am done with AOA and HW if they don't reverse it. SSSO was selling HW to US before AOA even started up IN BUSINESS if anybody should be cut off it should be AOA FOR INVADING SSSO ESTABLISHED SALES TERRITORY....NOW THAT WOULD BE FAIR TURN OF EVENTS :o
-
One final followup. I finally got the parts and lubricants and had time to re-assemble. Everything is back together and shooting the way I expected it to from the start, like a big HW30/R7. Power is back, accuracy is what it should have been from the beginning and it doesn't exhibit any hold sensitivity like it did before. The cocking stroke is much smoother now. In short its a different rifle. What was most noticeable was the fact that I have a rear peep sight on the gun and originally I had to have the sight cranked fairly far to the left to compensate for what I thought was just the way the rifle shot. Now it is "dang" near dead center along the bore so that is another indication that she is getting a proper centered solid puff of air.
Re-Assembly was much more a PITA then Dis-Assembly and I don't mean the spring compression. I had a bear of the time getting the breach/barrel assembly re-bolted up. Much profanity ensued.
Also I have to report that AoA did indeed send me a pistol seal immediately. Shipped way faster then they normally do, so I have a backup if I need it.
All in all this was a fairly fun exercise but not something I want to do on a regular basis. Thank you all for the advice and help in this little project.
At any rate, thanks everybody for all your help. It was invaluable.
Now I want an HW98.......................I have got to get a cheaper hobby like Hookers and Heroin......
Chris
-
One final followup. I finally got the parts and lubricants and had time to re-assemble. Everything is back together and shooting the way I expected it to from the start, like a big HW30/R7. Power is back, accuracy is what it should have been from the beginning and it doesn't exhibit any hold sensitivity like it did before. The cocking stroke is much smoother now. In short its a different rifle. What was most noticeable was the fact that I have a rear peep sight on the gun and originally I had to have the sight cranked fairly far to the left to compensate for what I thought was just the way the rifle shot. Now it is "dang" near dead center along the bore so that is another indication that she is getting a proper centered solid puff of air.
Re-Assembly was much more a PITA then Dis-Assembly and I don't mean the spring compression. I had a bear of the time getting the breach/barrel assembly re-bolted up. Much profanity ensued.
Also I have to report that AoA did indeed send me a pistol seal immediately. Shipped way faster then they normally do, so I have a backup if I need it.
All in all this was a fairly fun exercise but not something I want to do on a regular basis. Thank you all for the advice and help in this little project.
At any rate, thanks everybody for all your help. It was invaluable.
Now I want an HW98.......................I have got to get a cheaper hobby like Hookers and Heroin......
Chris
The HW98 is a dream untuned after 2000 shots, tuned is something I can hardly wait for. Here is a chrony test I did yesterday with my R11 (HW98).
LO 834.00 13.04
HI 857.10 13.77
AVG 849.22 13.52
EP 23.10
SD 5.20
-
Excellent news Chris!!! Glad it all worked out!!
The 98, or R11, is right up there with my 97, TX and Pro Sport......in every respect!!
Mine has a Vortek SHO kit in her with about 3,000 rounds down the chute and is super smooth, laser like accuracy with a bunch of different domed pellets, built like a tank and easy to shoot well!!!
You simply can't ask for more from a springer!!
No enabling intended......yeah right!!
Chrony numbers after 1 tin after the tune.
The 2 best pellets in mine are FTTs and JSB 10.3.
The shots I have made with this rifle have amazed the snot out of me.
The groups almost convince me I know what I'm doing!!
Can't say enough great things about this gun! I e mailed HW about how happy I was with the gun and Hans W personally thanked me and sent me a cap.....I am an HW fan!!
98
8.64 4.51 FTTs
14.7 fpe
870.4
876.1
869.2
877.9
880.4
884.4
889.2
871.4
877.4
878.0
Avg 877.4
ES 19.99
SD 6.24
7.9 CPLs
918.6
923.7
923.2
920.9
917.7
921.0
923.3
919.7
924.6
Avg 921.4
ES 8.87
SD 2.44
14.88 fpe
8.4 JSB 4.52
857.9
859.1
859.8
861.5
863.7
871.4
866.8
868.5
861.3
866.0
Avg 863.6
ES 13.52
SD 4.47
13.89 fpe
10.3 JSB
Lo 824.1
Hi 834.8
Avg 828.2
ES 10.74
SD 4
15.69 fpe
10.65 Baracuda Match
Lo 808.2
Hi 816.2
Avg 812.1
ES 7.95
SD 2.82
FPE 15.65