Author Topic: Possible Problem With HW95 Who To Send To (Warranty??) (Read 12807 times))

Cslinger · « **on:** January 05, 2015, 11:48:10 PM »

I have a .22 HW95 that has always shot harshly but I never really paid much mind to it. Recently I have started spending more time with it and have noticed that I believe it is shooting very under powered.

Now I don't have a chrony so all of this is gut/seat of pants but bear with me.

I also have a marvelous HW30s in .22 If I fire both into a block of duct seal from the same distance using the same pellets the 30s will bury its round noticeably deeper in the seal. Considering the 30s should only be slinging them at around 400 fps and the HW95 should be somewhere around 700fps something seems off.

So what is my best course of action?

Thanks,
Chris

ancient1one · « **Reply #1 on:** January 06, 2015, 12:48:53 AM »

HW has a lifetime warranty. Where did you buy it and how long ago?

TOM aka critter99 · « **Reply #2 on:** January 06, 2015, 01:00:58 AM »

depends on where you bought thru shipping is gonna cost you almost as much as a seal and tune kit

The HW sold via that AZ dealer

have a lifetime warranty if sold after a certain date

If they don't support you well make sure you email and tell....

Write to Hans Weihrauch at: info@weihrauch-sport.de

if it was AOA good luck let us know how they treat you

Cslinger · « **Reply #3 on:** January 06, 2015, 01:02:50 AM »

AoA I have emailed them.

Is it worth me tearing it down and putting in a tune kit? If so what would be best for smoothness vs sheer power?

Cslinger · « **Reply #4 on:** January 06, 2015, 01:08:36 AM »

As an aside I have done a fair bit of business with AoA and never had a problem. Always polite, always knowledgeable always.......well slow to ship but at least consistent. Of course that was as a buyer not somebody Looking for warranty work.

TOM aka critter99 · « **Reply #5 on:** January 06, 2015, 03:12:48 AM »

Quote from: Cslinger on January 06, 2015, 01:08:36 AM

As an aside I have done a fair bit of business with AoA and never had a problem. Always polite, always knowledgeable always.......well slow to ship but at least consistent. Of course that was as a buyer not somebody Looking for warranty work.

two camps with that dealer 1. extremely happy customers when all goes smoothly 2. many that had out of box failures and left upset by dealer reactions. No real middle ground customers

I would see what shipping costs in both directions to use warranty then price out JM or Vortek kit and spring. If you feel comfortable installing kit then if its close I would myself just do the kit. Nobody really will be as careful as the owner when working on the rifle. Some owners have two left hands and cannot work on them at all so for them a warranty repair is a mandatory item

TOM aka critter99 · « **Reply #6 on:** January 06, 2015, 03:20:06 AM »

nice quick check to see if breech is sealing well. If it blows the paper off when fired its leaking and will always be harsh. Might be easy fix no need for mail or a kit

.22 HW barrels have read about some being on the larger side of internal diameter and pellets fitting real loose same effect low power and harsh

Cslinger · « **Reply #7 on:** January 06, 2015, 10:22:48 AM »

Hmmmm now that is food for thought. I never thought about a loose chamber. Mine has always felt loose but not hot dog thrown down a tunnel loose so to speak. That would explain the harshness of the firing cycle.

Ok so lets say I decide what the heck and tear this thing apart myself. I am fairly familiar with taking firearms down a spring gun cannot be that hard.............said right before "Hey ya'll watch this." but I digress.

So can I source another HW barrel (Want the sights, don't want the Beeman clean barrel) I figure if I do go through the effort to do this should I just replace the insides as well with one of the tuner kits? Let's assume money isn't the big hang up within reason. (I figure a barrel should cost what a hundred bucks or so. What does a tuner kit cost another 100??) I haven't really researched this yet.

So assuming I just decide to re-barrel, what tuner kit would be recommended assuming that I am not a MORE POWWWWWAAAA!!! kind of air gun guy. I am a smooth accurate kind of guy. I know there are several folks who make several kits and I am vaguely aware that some are about power and some are about smoothness. I might just make this a little project.

Also what if any lubrication should be used inside the compression chamber. I know we don't want to use anything flammable. Would something like silicon from the hardware store work or am I going to want to get some kind of specialty 87.95 a per 2 oz tube kind of thing.

Sorry for the questions I am sort of leaning towards making this a project for the fun/learning experience vs. the hassle of shipping the entire rifle etc. and I am in the shallow end of the pool as far as the mechanics involved with air guns. I can turn a screw and punch a pin with the best of them though..........."Hey ya'll..........I digress again.

Thanks much for the heads up and suggestions.

Chris

ptpalpha · « **Reply #8 on:** January 06, 2015, 11:01:31 AM »

Lot's of stuff to talk about here.
Your best bet for a new barrel is to hook up with a Canadian GTA member and have them buy it for you from Specialty Shooting in Canada. Best prices, best selection. If you go that route, then it will be about $100. Otherwise, you can browse the Pyramyd Air site and see if they offer any that you like.
As for the kits, you can either go with Vortek or Maccari, both are excellent. You'll get recommendations for both, it's a Ford vs. Chevy type of thing. Personally I prefer Maccari, but not for any real reason other than I like and respect Jim Maccari. Vortek has excellent products and excellent customer service, so you really can't go wrong with either. The prices are comparable.
Lubes are best sourced from Maccari, unless you go with Krytox. From Maccari, you'll need moly, and one of his tars (clear, Euro, heavy black). I believe he offers a kit with all his lubes for one price...everything you need for a re-build. For Krytox, you should read up on how it's being used (it's the new kid on the block for lubing airguns) and you'll probably have to buy it online at Ebay or Amazon. It's not cheap.
I'd recommend a tear-down, clean and lube-tune before scrapping the barrel. Check the breech seals like Tom suggested, and when it's torn down check the piston seal for any problems.
For the barrel, you can push a pellet through the bore with a small-diameter dowel to see how loose the fit is. That should give you a better idea if the bore is the source of the harshness you're experiencing. If the bore seems oversized, maybe try a larger diameter pellet than the ones you're currently using.
-Paul

ancient1one · « **Reply #9 on:** January 06, 2015, 11:32:29 AM »

Hi Paul. You stated "As for the kits, you can either go with Vortek or Maccari, both are excellent." From reading user reviews both companies sell awesome springer kits and have top notch customer service/warranty.

If installed in the same exact rifle do both kits offer the same FPS/FPE in both 177 and 22 caliber? My question is strictly out of curiosity.

Sfttailrdr46 · « **Reply #10 on:** January 06, 2015, 11:45:14 AM »

As others have posted JM and Vortek = ford and chevy I have the Vortek SHO in my TX200 MK III and a HO in my Diana 460 my D34 P has a JM kit all 3 springers perform smooth and accurate no issues either way in my book. As far as doing the tune at home if you have the time and patience to do it right you will be happy with the end result

K_sqrd · « **Reply #11 on:** January 06, 2015, 12:32:56 PM »

If you decide to do your own tune, this link may be of help...

http://www.freewebs.com/stripdowns/hw9895kstrip.htm

Since AoA does carry some spare HW parts, you might ask about a spare barrel. Also ARH (Maccari) seems to be able to obtain
HW items so you might check with him too.

Good Luck.

TOM aka critter99 · « **Reply #12 on:** January 06, 2015, 12:47:58 PM »

I would like to see results of the tissue test I am hoping you would get lucky. Do the top side with sheet of toilet paper then dont forget bottom side. You could also dust the area with talc powder inside a section of panty hose it will be obvious if it leaking.

The barrels from SSSO have been cut off from US sales because AOA complained to HW to stop US sales from SSSO. So you have to get it mailed to a Canada friend then re-mailed to US what a PITA. SSSO was a much better rep for HW they stock barrel and maint. parts on the shelf I bet AOA does not.

I would do the tissue test then check pellet to bore fit if loose I would want a warranty fix(new barrel) maybe you could just mail in action no stock to save on shipping costs??? I would hate to tear into it and lose warranty if not needed. What scares me was there was talk of some production runs in the not to distant past having pitted compression tubing steel from factory.

I am praying you find a leaking breech seal to avoid any frustrating process with the dealer and repair. If any hassle from dealer i would make sure I wrote to HW AFTER it was done about service quality.

Check this thread for background on that http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=77536.0

I have used both kits Vortek seems to be higher power results and Tom Gore will call you back on questions about installation if needed. JM is not as user friendly but has a great kit and best lubes. Krytox is interesting stuff I have tried it ZERO dieseling it cannot chemically support combustion. If its your first kit install I would do Vortek because of support you just have to be careful to not damage outer Vortek kit sleeve when it start into piston skirt

let use know how tissue / talc powder test came out

Cslinger · « **Reply #13 on:** January 06, 2015, 12:59:35 PM »

So just so I know exactly what I am doing.

I drape a square of tissue / TP over where the breech meets the receiver. Fire (with pellet loaded obviously). Now my particular 95 has a pretty harsh cycle so will I be looking for a pretty obvious puff upwards of the tissue?

If this is the case is the breech seal a fairly straightforward fix as it looks like it is seated in there really well.

Thanks again everybody. This is all very helpful on more fronts then just working through this particular issue.

One more thing. Could a bad breech seal cause a harsh firing cycle???

TOM aka critter99 · « **Reply #14 on:** January 06, 2015, 01:41:50 PM »

yes with well fitting pellet ...yes sure can cause harshness as there is little load to slow piston down and it slams into end of chamber

If it leaking the BLAST of air will move the tissue quite well

The tissue test work I like the dusted with powder but it leaves a clean up mess

the seal just pulls out (on old ones for sure) and the seal should catch ya finger nail above breech surface but too far out or lockup wanders poi. High enough to seal, low enough to not wander poi. Dont know if ya have the older style or the new one ....is it donut looking or a star shape ? The newer rifle have star shaped area around seal I think the seal might be the same as old ones but have not seen one in person to know or not

Cslinger · « **Reply #15 on:** January 06, 2015, 02:45:16 PM »

Well I will let you know what I find tonight. I did, however, order 3 breech seals just to keep on hand as a preventive measure since the same seal seems to work across the line.

Stupid question. Since the breech seal seems like it is nothing more then a harder composite o-ring of sorts are their hardware store equivalents that could be sourced. I don't mean like a standard soft rubber o-ring but possibly something designed for higher pressure applications? I ask because if I find any indication of leaking it might be interesting to find a temporary solution just to see what kind of difference is made.

Chris

stevemag · « **Reply #16 on:** January 06, 2015, 02:55:49 PM »

maybe i missed it but, why is it? you think you need a new barrel and not just spring and seals?

Cslinger · « **Reply #17 on:** January 06, 2015, 03:03:02 PM »

That wasn't my first step but part of my thought process as I do feel my barrel is a little loose fitting for pellets and would explain the harshness of the firing cycle.

I am going to test the breech seal/tinker with that. Then possibly move up to a tear down and then if need be look at the barrel. I might just warranty it but I find the tinkering fairly fun an entertaining.

Chris

Cslinger · « **Reply #18 on:** January 06, 2015, 03:08:13 PM »

As an aside what kind of damage occurs when an spring air gun is fired without a pellet?? I know this is a definite no go for spring guns but not sure what specifically the break point would be.

I understand the spring and piston will fly forward with a higher velocity / force due to the lack of back pressure cushion but other then said piston smacking the steel wall of the front of the tube what kind of actual damage occurs. Does the piston (which seems like a fairly robust part) suffer the damage? Does the piston seal superheat / melt deform or something? Does the spring over extend causing it to exceed its spring properties or snap??

Yes I know I am now using this thread as an academic one. Sorry about that.

Motorhead · « **Reply #19 on:** January 06, 2015, 03:20:23 PM »

While HW may indeed have a lifetime warranty, doubtful SPRING is covered being it is a consumable wearing out and suffers fatigue from use.

Fresh spring or kit, Lube tune and such would be my choice over screwing around for freebee warranty work.

JMO ...

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Possible Problem With HW95 Who To Send To (Warranty??)

Author Topic: Possible Problem With HW95 Who To Send To (Warranty??) (Read 12807 times))