GTA
Support Equipment For PCP/HPA/CO2 and springers ,rams => 3D printing and files => Topic started by: OldCrow on March 04, 2025, 09:01:15 PM
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Here is a 3mf file which you can pull into your slicer and print.
It is just a good little moderator. This one I've dubbed the "Standard" model because after a couple of years of design, testing, tweaking and shooting it has become the standard whereby I judge other designs (there are many). I've often toyed with the idea of going commercial with these designs but life happens.
Still I am getting a bit long in the tooth and thought it best to get this out there where others can enjoy it as much as I have.
The file is on "thingiverse.com". I have elected not to upload it to this forum. I suppose someone might want to do that but as a courtesy please don't. I'd like to control the design and minimize remixes. If you want to change the design or make a remix by all means help yourself, just change the name of the design.
If you do print one and you find it is worth the effort and want to recommend the design to other folks, please give them this link:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6969058
Thanks
Mike
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Picture
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Mike, when I click that link it takes me to an error page on Thingiverse...
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So did I, but I read what it said to do.
You have to Login ( maybe create user ) and then change your profile settings to accept this kind of material.
It was - Show NSFW content. ( you will have to turn it on )
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Yep saw that Robert but I am not ready to create a user account on the site. I am pretty selective on which sites get my information to sell to other third parties... (Just me!)
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I removed the NSFW flag.
You may be able to access it without an account now.
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The link works fine now.
8)
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Very decent of you, Mike
Download worked for me.
Still I am getting a bit long in the tooth and thought it best to get this out there where others can enjoy it as much as I have.
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Thank you so much Mike.
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Very decent of you, Mike
Download worked for me.
Still I am getting a bit long in the tooth and thought it best to get this out there where others can enjoy it as much as I have.
Happy to see you again! Been a while. Is it just me or are the winters getting longer? ;)
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Thank you so much Mike.
Happy to do it. I have decided to put together a complete collection of my designs with documentation and put it up on thingiverse. It will take a couple of weeks but once it is up there it will be a fairly complete library of designs which all fell out of the research I did between Spring 2021 and Spring 2024. They are all "Tesla Baffle" based. My implementation of the Tesla Baffle is a bit odd I suppose but seems to work.
Anyway here is a sample of what that library will contain:
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Mike, I am a complete newby to 3D printing, but decided to try your .22 version last night as a learning experience. The print was done with .12 layer height PLA with a 50% infill using the Cura slicer on Linux. The result looks amazing, the lettering is good and the overall quality looks great. I will have to install the.22 cal barrel back in my Escape UL to do some testing in the near future. The Escape currently has a Donny FL Tanto, so will be interesting to compare the two. Also look forward to trying the .25 cal version when available. Thank you again for sharing your expertise and experiences with these builds.
One quick question, have the designs been tested with more powerful airguns like the Escape UL? I will not be able to print with resin, but I will soon have some PETG to play with. Not sure how well the PLA version will hold up, but it was great for learning more about 3D printing.
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Mike, I am a complete newby to 3D printing, but decided to try your .22 version last night as a learning experience. The print was done with .12 layer height PLA with a 50% infill using the Cura slicer on Linux. The result looks amazing, the lettering is good and the overall quality looks great. I will have to install the.22 cal barrel back in my Escape UL to do some testing in the near future. The Escape currently has a Donny FL Tanto, so will be interesting to compare the two. Also look forward to trying the .25 cal version when available. Thank you again for sharing your expertise and experiences with these builds.
One quick question, have the designs been tested with more powerful airguns like the Escape UL? I will not be able to print with resin, but I will soon have some PETG to play with. Not sure how well the PLA version will hold up, but it was great for learning more about 3D printing.
Good to hear!
I believe these designs should perform well up to about 50+ fpe in 25 cal. 40+ fpe in 22 cal. and 30+ fpe in 177 cal. If you are worried about strength you can sand them down enough to fit the appropriate carbon fiber tube and that should strengthen them significantly. I draw them so that you can order a tube from Ebay and sand them down (a bit) then epoxy on a CF tube.
I doubt that the internals on any of them will handle 80 fpe. They might but I'd not count on it. Putting that kind of pressure in one without gluing a CF tube around it would be asking for trouble. With the tube you will atleast know which direction the fragments will be going. ;D :o :P YMMV... I wouldn't try it and if I did I wouldn't let anyone stand anywhere near while I did it.
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Mike, thanks for the updated information, and of course the wise warnings. I usually have my Airforce Escape UL tuned to shoot ~60 ft lbs with the .25 barrel and about ~43 ft lbs with my .22 barrel. That rifle is the only one I have to test with, but I would tune it down in .22 to somewhere around 30 fpe to start.
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Mike, thanks for the updated information, and of course the wise warnings. I usually have my Airforce Escape UL tuned to shoot ~60 ft lbs with the .25 barrel and about ~43 ft lbs with my .22 barrel. That rifle is the only one I have to test with, but I would tune it down in .22 to somewhere around 30 fpe to start.
No worries, keep us posted. I'd like to hear about your observations. The reason I am not more specific is because I recently (a couple months ago) made some changes to lighten up the designs and they haven't been tested to failure since that time. Hopefully my assertions are not too far off the mark. We were shooting a different resin than the one I use now at close to 100 fpe in 25 cal last year... but that was a different resin AND a heavier design.
Another thing you'll likely find a PETG moderator fitted inside a CF tube of the correct diameter will surprise you on just what it can take. That 22 Standard is a 30mm tube outside diameter so a piece of 32mm x 30mm x 120mm would be perfect to support that moderator in a more powerful gun.
Here is a draft of the PDF I'm working on for the upload to the site later this month.
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Well done good sir, and again, thank you for sharing your story and your perseverance. The weather is suppose to be nice tomorrow so I should get some testing done with the .22 standard. 3D printing seems to be somewhat of an art and I am early in the learning cycle. I did not try to do anything in the print to insure the most strength, am just learning more about walls and infill, etc so will try to be conservative with the early testing.
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I've started adding the files for the 17 and 25 calibers as well. There is still quite a bit of work to do before this project is finished but I've made a pretty good start.
There will be questions. Ask them here. I have used multiple resins and multiple filaments to print all of these designs. I can probably answer any question off the top of my head. I'll keep the thread up to date.
Latest Draft PDF is attached:
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Updated files at Thingiverse.
Ember is 30mm x 100mm about 95 CC. Nice package. Good performance in a small package.
This one is the "root" moderator in the two baffle series.
Good shooting.
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OldCrow,
Thank you for sharing your designs! I read your white paper and I can only imagine what an undertaking it was to draw them and test them. I really enjoy 3D printing and how it can let us enthusiasts prototype things to experiment with.
Thanks again,
Chris
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OldCrow,
Thank you for sharing your designs! I read your white paper and I can only imagine what an undertaking it was to draw them and test them. I really enjoy 3D printing and how it can let us enthusiasts prototype things to experiment with.
Thanks again,
Chris
Thank you for your kind words. The shooters are the ones who did the heavy lifting. They've shot tens of thousands of pellets in testing.
There are ten actual designs which are part of this study. Today as I write this I see I have uploaded six of them to thingiverse.
I am about half way to getting that PDF and the uploads done.
Regards
Mike
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Old Crow,
Thanks for sharing your designs. I printed the standard .22 (4 times) and .25 version on my Qidi Q1 Pro using Elegoo Rapid PETG and they printed perfectly. They are by far the quietest moderators I have tried. The only sound now from my P15 .25 cal is the ping from the hammer strike. I've tried many different moderators to quiet my Artemis PP700 S/A pistol and none have worked until this one. My other .22's are all dead quiet now.
Thanks again,
Bob
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I printed the Standard 22 and the Wraith earlier this week on my Prusa MK4S, with Jessie PETG (from Printed Solid). They were both easy prints, and fast using a 0.25mm layer height. And the threads printed out very well, I didn't even need to chase them with a tap (whenever I model threads they usually print too tight). My son's spring break is next week and hopefully the weather here will be favorable to try them out.
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Old Crow,
Thanks for sharing your designs. I printed the standard .22 (4 times) and .25 version on my Qidi Q1 Pro using Elegoo Rapid PETG and they printed perfectly. They are by far the quietest moderators I have tried. The only sound now from my P15 .25 cal is the ping from the hammer strike. I've tried many different moderators to quiet my Artemis PP700 S/A pistol and none have worked until this one. My other .22's are all dead quiet now.
Thanks again,
Bob
Thank you, sir! Pleased to hear it.
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I printed the Standard 22 and the Wraith earlier this week on my Prusa MK4S, with Jessie PETG (from Printed Solid). They were both easy prints, and fast using a 0.25mm layer height. And the threads printed out very well, I didn't even need to chase them with a tap (whenever I model threads they usually print too tight). My son's spring break is next week and hopefully the weather here will be favorable to try them out.
I hope it works out well for you. ;)
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Hi Mike,
I just sliced your Archangel mod, and Orcaslicer keeps warning me that there are "floating regions" in it. I opened the STL just as -is, I put 8 walls and 100% infill, and it is sitting flat on the build plate in the slicer. Any ideas?
Jared
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Hi Mike,
I just sliced your Archangel mod, and Orcaslicer keeps warning me that there are "floating regions" in it. I opened the STL just as -is, I put 8 walls and 100% infill, and it is sitting flat on the build plate in the slicer. Any ideas?
Jared
Hi Jared, the problem you are seeing is caused by the larger flat areas being bridged at the top of the print. I have not tried to print that design on an FDM printer and it may not work. I have printed all the other models on an FDM printer and some of them have the same issue. They all print fine. I can chamfer the edge of that section in the next update and the warning will go away.
Personally I'd ignore that warning in that particular file but that is a decision you should make. Ill make that correction in the file and upload updates today.
Mike
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I got it printed out successfully
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I got it printed out successfully
That one is somewhat "excessive" but it's pretty quiet. ??? :P I have just about finished the changes.
Fixed the problem.
I'll post an image of the area causing the warning and a print of that part of the moderator so people will know what to expect.
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I got it printed out successfully
Fixed the problem.
I'll post an image of the area causing the warning and a print of that part of the moderator so people will know what to expect.
Here are images of the attachment section of the Archangel 22 moderator. I printed it separately and oriented "muzzle down" as the designs recommend. Printed at a 0.20 layer height in PETG on my Bamboo P1S. I had vertical walls set to 2. Yours should be set to 5 or more. Usually I set them so that the walls of the moderator print with no infill. That alone generally solves this problem.
The warning we are seeing is caused by the flat spot where the threads are reinforced. You probably won't get that warning as I think I've fixed it.
If you do you can safely ignore it and the result will look like the included images.
During post processing you can pull, burn, cut or melt out those "fuzzies", if they even appear in you print. I usually just reach into the moderator with forceps and pick them out.
Anyway that's what WAS causing that warning on the 60mm and larger diameter designs.
HTH
Mike
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Surprisingly that archangel can fit on my Sumatra. But I won't be testing it until I get more paint just in case the paint is what is making the moderators stronger since all the moderators I've tested except one have blown apart unless they were painted.
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Surprisingly that archangel can fit on my Sumatra. But I won't be testing it until I get more paint just in case the paint is what is making the moderators stronger since all the moderators I've tested except one have blown apart unless they were painted.
Welp, if it blows up on the Sumatra, let me know. I'll run something off that should hold together but you'd be better off to look up "lost PLA casting" as the end product would be more efficient and probably weigh a bit less.
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I know. That sort of rifle just really isn't made to be silenced. It want's to be heard. The testing of all the cans is fun though, and I do have one that does quiet it down to an almost civilized level.
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I know. That sort of rifle just really isn't made to be silenced. It want's to be heard. The testing of all the cans is fun though, and I do have one that does quiet it down to an almost civilized level.
Well if it holds up more one shot I'd be surprised. The walls on that one are only 2 mm thick. Good luck I'll be watching. 🙃
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I did print the file at 100% infill with 8 wall loops so it might take a shot or two after I paint it
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Updated with another design. I still have a couple of designs that need to be uploaded. Perhaps later this week I can get another one up there. It looks like I've uploaded the entire three baffle family of designs. There appear to be two or three two baffle designs which remain. to be uploaded.
Phantom "big brother" to the Standard
130mm x 35mm 125cc
5.12in x 1.38in
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6991178
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Mike,
Your Thingyverse post seems to have changed. Is that because of a cross structure that can be seen in the bore of the original STL? Image below
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Mike,
Your Thingyverse post seems to have changed. Is that because of a cross structure that can be seen in the bore of the original STL? Image below
Hmm
That is a logical error in the code which I was seeing the other day when I was fixing the warning we were seeing in the slicers. I did not know that I had posted any stl/3mf that had that error in it. I see now that it is only occurring with the 17 cal moderators. I introduced it when I was fixing that warning message over the weekend. Thanks for picking it up. You saved me a bit of work. Ive removed the offending file and checked all the others. That was the only one which had the problem AFIAK.
I should probably explain that a bit better. Everything I post is done in OpenSCAD. I wrote about 800 lines of code so that I could just alter a config file and then have OpenSCAD generate the stl file. For a while I also maintained some batch files which just ran OpenSCAD from the command line and changed the values of the parameters for each run. One command and all the stls for every design "popped" out. Recently I cleaned up the code, removed a bunch of cruft and streamlined the processing. At that point I dispensed with the batch files and simply modify the config file when I want to generate one of the designs in my catalogue.
All of my designs come from the same basic study. That is the study I referenced in the first post. That took us about two and a half or three years. It is done now and I am releasing the results on thingivers. Sometimes someone will find a problem and I'll fix it in the code and generate new copies of the designs impacted. In this specific case only the 17 caliber designs were impacted and only the ones I posted today. That is fixed as of just a few minutes ago.
Thanks!
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Mike,
I just re-DLed the thingiverse archive "all files" and found that the 177 version of the STL is now missing.
Thanks for posting all of these, I'm sure they'll get a lot of use!
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You are very welcome, sir.
There was an issue with that one. Which I am fixing just now. It will be up again shortly (I hope).
Mike
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The current thingiverse upload has the 177 now, and all the STLs all look correct. Thanks again!
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The current thingiverse upload has the 177 now, and all the STLs all look correct. Thanks again!
Thank you sir!
Here's another.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6992213
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Just added the "BOA" to the catalogue up at thingiverse.
It is a two baffle "fat" can 100mm x 60mm about 283cc . The design was sort of imspired by the "cans" that Airforce puts on the Talon P rifles. Very big, fat and ugly but quiet in a short package.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6992911
I uploaded several non-AG related models up today as well. If anyone is interested in Mikrotik routers they might find a useful case up there.
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MAMBA 150mm x 50mm
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6994218
This is the last moderator I'll be uploading for this series. They cover basically anything you want in an AG moderator unless your shooting big bore airguns. Everyone of them prints with 1/2 x 20 unf threads.
Ill be updating some of the older stls and 3mf files to clean up some issues with fonts which look great when printed on a resin printer but not so much when printed on an FDM printer.
I'll be working on cleaning up the documentation and notes over the next month and I expect this project will be complete by 1 May
Enjoy.
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All the moderators I've put up on Thingiverse now include files to do both M10 x 1 printed threads and 1/2 x 20 UNF.
There will be some cosmetic changes to the pages there. The 3mf files will not change again. I made changes suggested by @subscriber and @bduardes
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Great moderators.
I downloaded all of them and will print a few.
How well do 2 or 3 baffles moderators work compared to 4+ baffles, assuming the same volume?
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Great moderators.
I downloaded all of them and will print a few.
How well do 2 or 3 baffles moderators work compared to 4+ baffles, assuming the same volume?
That's a hard question. I wish I could tell you an answer which would always hold true. The Ember has always been reported as "impressively quiet for it's size". I personally know the "standard" model is quieter on my rifles but other's say that isn't true for them.
I do have some "new" information for those who are following this thread though. See next post.
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OK guys regarding these Tessla baffles. Couple years ago I realized that I could compute the "cutoff velocity" for the valves. I never did it in the code but I often did it on spread sheets. I've been modifying the code and decided to incorporate that calculation in the code so that I could monitor it when I was tweaking designs.
Why is this important? The cutoff velocity is the velocity BELOW which the Mach 1 shock wave emanating from the muzzle of the rifle catches the pellet as it is passing through the first cone. Any velocity below that will encounter enormous turbulence as the back pressure ramps up. Any velocity above that will clear the first cone and be flying in "clean" air as it transits the remainder of the moderator (unless the shock wave catches up but that is a different problem). My calculations are probably accurate to about +/-5% on that number.
This image file has a list of the dimensions of every moderator I've posted on thingiverse and more importantly it shows the cutoff velocities for each moderator in each caliber. If you want to check my work you can build one of the crazy designs (for example the Spooky 22) or you can simply crank your PCP down into the cutoff range of one of the more sensible designs (for example the Ember or Phantom 22).
Over the next couple of weeks I am going to either remove the models which are obviously going to destabilize pellets (the ones in red) or rework them to get that velocity where I want it. I like it to run around 750 for hunting rifles and in the mid 800's for target purposes. Anyway... yeah.
I figured if I gave you a heads up you would avoid spending resin or filament working on the ones which I probably should have kept in house.
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Mike,
For the Standard model.
Does the Red Critical velocity change with caliber of barrel versus caliber of the suppressor.
Example : use the .22 Standard on a .177 barrel or use a .25 Standard on a .22 barrel ?
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Mike,
For the Standard model.
Does the Red Critical velocity change with caliber of barrel versus caliber of the suppressor.
Example : use the .22 Standard on a .177 barrel or use a .25 Standard on a .22 barrel ?
The cutoff velocity changes when the physical geometry of the moderator changes and when the physical length of the pellet changes. Since the length isn't known exactly the calculation uses a heuristic of 1.5 times the caliber for that calculation. Usually a smaller caliber pellet is going to be a bit shorter than the one modeled in the calculation for a larger caliber. That would decrease the cutoff velocity. A .22 pellet in a .25 caliber moderator would be operating with a slightly more favorable cutoff velocity, perhaps 5 or 10 percent. The same would be true for a .177 in a .22 caliber.
HTH
Mike
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Great moderators.
I downloaded all of them and will print a few.
How well do 2 or 3 baffles moderators work compared to 4+ baffles, assuming the same volume?
That's a hard question. I wish I could tell you an answer which would always hold true. The Ember has always been reported as "impressively quiet for it's size". I personally know the "standard" model is quieter on my rifles but other's say that isn't true for them.
I do have some "new" information for those who are following this thread though. See next post.
I will print the Wraith today.
It seems to be the largest 3 bafflle moderator (excluding the Archangel).
Do you have a single document/image showing the specs for the moderators (dimensions, number of baffles, etc)?
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Great moderators.
I downloaded all of them and will print a few.
How well do 2 or 3 baffles moderators work compared to 4+ baffles, assuming the same volume?
That's a hard question. I wish I could tell you an answer which would always hold true. The Ember has always been reported as "impressively quiet for it's size". I personally know the "standard" model is quieter on my rifles but other's say that isn't true for them.
I do have some "new" information for those who are following this thread though. See next post.
I will print the Wraith today.
It seems to be the largest 3 bafflle moderator (excluding the Archangel).
Do you have a single document/image showing the specs for the moderators (dimensions, number of baffles, etc)?
8) :o ;)
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What triggers the Mach 1 condition?
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What triggers the Mach 1 condition?
The velocity of sound at standard temp and pressure.
I am trying to calculate the fastest possible arrival of interference at the bottom of the top cone in the baffle. Once I have that I can calculate the minimum velocity that will allow the pellet to clear that intersection before it happens. That calculation is dependent on the exact geometry of the moderator.
What do you think?
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I guess my question really was, for a subsonic pellet, in your calculation, when does the flow achieve sonic condition and create a shock wave? You must use that time delay to start the race to the first baffle.
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I guess my question really was, for a subsonic pellet, in your calculation, when does the flow achieve sonic condition and create a shock wave? You must use that time delay to start the race to the first baffle.
That is an interesting question. If the pellet never achieves mach then the first instance of the "shock" wave being created is at the muzzle during "uncorking". The pressure increase itself has no doubt started within the moderator body as the velocity of the pellet ramps up during barrel transit. I have not tried to model that part of the problem.
The "shock wave" I am discussing here is really a pressure wave which can not travel slower than (or faster than) Mach 1. It is actually an audio pulse. There is no supersonic shock wave associated with airguns until the pellet actually exits the barrel at some velocity above the speed of sound.
However the sound pressure which the "uncorking" event generates DOES travel at the speed of sound. Hence Mach 1.
So we are working with two different velocities here, yes. The velocity of the pellet and the velocity of the sound pulse created by the "muzzle blast".
I am using the moment the crown of the pellet exits the barrel as the start time for my calculation. The model is not perfect. There is no such thing as a perfect model.
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I guess my question really was, for a subsonic pellet, in your calculation, when does the flow achieve sonic condition and create a shock wave? You must use that time delay to start the race to the first baffle.
That is an interesting question. If the pellet never achieves mach then the first instance of the "shock" wave being created is at the muzzle during "uncorking". The pressure increase itself has no doubt started within the moderator body as the velocity of the pellet ramps up during barrel transit. I have not tried to model that part of the problem.
The "shock wave" I am discussing here is really a pressure wave which can not travel slower than (or faster than) Mach 1. It is actually an audio pulse. There is no supersonic shock wave associated with airguns until the pellet actually exits the barrel at some velocity above the speed of sound.
However the sound pressure which the "uncorking" event generates DOES travel at the speed of sound. Hence Mach 1.
So we are working with two different velocities here, yes. The velocity of the pellet and the velocity of the sound pulse created by the "muzzle blast".
I am using the moment the crown of the pellet exits the barrel as the start time for my calculation. The model is not perfect. There is no such thing as a perfect model.
I printed the Wraith in .177 and installed it on a 14-15 FPE .177 PCP.
The Wraith is a little quieter than the other significantly larger moderator.
Definitely works well for its size.
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I printed the Wraith in .177 and installed it on a 14-15 FPE .177 PCP.
The Wraith is a little quieter than the other significantly larger moderator.
Definitely works well for its size.
Test for accuracy. You might be disappointed. I hope not.
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I printed the Wraith in .177 and installed it on a 14-15 FPE .177 PCP.
The Wraith is a little quieter than the other significantly larger moderator.
Definitely works well for its size.
Test for accuracy. You might be disappointed. I hope not.
The accuracy with the .177 Wraith is fine.
I will print the .22 version of the Archangel over night.
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I put the Archangel on a .22 28FPE PCP.
It works but for its size I expect better.
After all it's ticker than the air bottle.
No more tick and short moderators for me.
The longer moderators work much better.
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So far, I printed two .177 Wraith moderators.
They work well in lower power.
The photo shows the .177 Wraith and Kent's moderator (which I have printed many times).
I tried both on three 6-9 FPE .177 PCP pistols.
The Wraith is a little more quiet but it also has more volume.
So, Tesla valve or not, volume and length seem to matter more.
Also, the short moderators are louder than longer ones.
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I put the Archangel on a .22 28FPE PCP.
It works but for its size I expect better.
After all it's ticker than the air bottle.
No more tick and short moderators for me.
The longer moderators work much better.
Yup. Fat moderators need a different approach to damping. They work best when designed to absorb the noise. Have a look at the moderator that comes with the AF Talon. Completely different design.
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I put the Archangel on a .22 28FPE PCP.
It works but for its size I expect better.
After all it's ticker than the air bottle.
No more tick and short moderators for me.
The longer moderators work much better.
Yup. Fat moderators need a different approach to damping. They work best when designed to absorb the noise. Have a look at the moderator that comes with the AF Talon. Completely different design.
I am not sure what you are saying.
I thought that the fat Archangel moderator is the quietest of the designs you shared.
For the volume it's not quiet enough, for me at least.
By the way, I like the Wraith for low powered (under 12 FPE) .177 caliber, better than anything I have.
But for 12+ FPE longer moderators work better.
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I put the Archangel on a .22 28FPE PCP.
It works but for its size I expect better.
After all it's ticker than the air bottle.
No more tick and short moderators for me.
The longer moderators work much better.
Yup. Fat moderators need a different approach to damping. They work best when designed to absorb the noise. Have a look at the moderator that comes with the AF Talon. Completely different design.
I am not sure what you are saying.
I thought that the fat Archangel moderator is the quietest of the designs you shared.
For the volume it's not quiet enough, for me at least.
By the way, I like the Wraith for low powered (under 12 FPE) .177 caliber, better than anything I have.
But for 12+ FPE longer moderators work better.
Oh no. That is just one of the moderators we built during testing. I printed perhaps two of those. Some people want a moderator more for the look than for the performance. That one isn't a very good performer. This collection of moderators lets anyone who wants duplicate all the testing I've done on Tesla Baffles.
The best one is the one YOU like the best. All of the sensible looking moderators are my favorites and they are the ones which perform the best. The quietist? Probably the Wraith or the Mamba I think it would depend on the caliber and power level of the rifle (and probably the way you were holding your mouth that day);)
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I put the Archangel on a .22 28FPE PCP.
It works but for its size I expect better.
After all it's ticker than the air bottle.
No more tick and short moderators for me.
The longer moderators work much better.
Yup. Fat moderators need a different approach to damping. They work best when designed to absorb the noise. Have a look at the moderator that comes with the AF Talon. Completely different design.
I am not sure what you are saying.
I thought that the fat Archangel moderator is the quietest of the designs you shared.
For the volume it's not quiet enough, for me at least.
By the way, I like the Wraith for low powered (under 12 FPE) .177 caliber, better than anything I have.
But for 12+ FPE longer moderators work better.
Oh no. That is just one of the moderators we built during testing. I printed perhaps two of those. Some people want a moderator more for the look than for the performance. That one isn't a very good performer. This collection of moderators lets anyone who wants duplicate all the testing I've done on Tesla Baffles.
The best one is the one YOU like the best. All of the sensible looking moderators are my favorites and they are the ones which perform the best. The quietist? Probably the Wraith or the Mamba I think it would depend on the caliber and power level of the rifle (and probably the way you were holding your mouth that day);)
That Archangel certainly looks impressive.
It makes any gun look like a bazooka :)
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I have a question.
Do any of you guys sell printed parts?
I might be interested in buying a couple of these.
Hunter
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I have a question.
Do any of you guys sell printed parts?
I might be interested in buying a couple of these.
Hunter
I take it you would be wanting them in .25 cal. I unfortunately have only been making .22 cal.
However, several of the assortment of .22 mods I have printed recently look like they would easily also work for a .25. The passage through looks more than large enough on some like these. I have no idea what it might cost to mail it to you, but it shouldn't be more than $10 to send a padded envelope to most places within the US. These are Pete's Long and shorter mods and his Tesla mod that I printed for the Sumatra destruction test. They all survived being shot repeatedly by my Sumatra at over 70 fpe.
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Gents,
Before you make a decision, I want you to know that the front cap bore diameter is significantly larger than the first baffle at the rear, because I enable the mounted mods to tolerate 1/4 degree of droop or other angular misalignment, without clipping, in .22 caliber.
The Tesla Valve mod, for example was designed for the printed bore diameter of the fist baffle to be 7 mm. If you deem that wide enough for .25 then OK, but I would not want to disappoint you, if it clips.
The other two mods with the checkerboard texture have their first baffle sized in CAD to print at 7.5 mm, with the same diameter increase towards the front of 1/4 degree per side. That is about 0.2 mm in diameter larger for each 25 mm increase in length. If that sounds a lot, consider that angular droop is one-sided, and we don't know which way such droop or part to part misalignment might occur. If you want custom baffle bore diameters, without enlargement towards the front, I can do that. I just do not recommend it for long mods; especially shroud mounted ones.
As my .22 Tesla Valve mod has the highest risk of clipping when used with a .25 PCP, I could design that one for .25 caliber. I can do the extra strong version, as tested by Jared on his Sumatra, and / or the lightweight design I did for John. I can also redo the other two mods Jared tested, designed for .25.
It would be useful to know what PCP you are attaching it to, and at what power you are shooting? Active shroud or direct barrel mount are also considerations for performance and potential misalignment.
If Jared is not up for printing .25 variants, you can commission forum member TorqueMaster to print them for you; or anyone else you choose.
I have a question.
Do any of you guys sell printed parts?
I might be interested in buying a couple of these.
Hunter
I take it you would be wanting them in .25 cal. I unfortunately have only been making .22 cal.
However, several of the assortment of .22 mods I have printed recently look like they would easily also work for a .25. The passage through looks more than large enough on some like these. I have no idea what it might cost to mail it to you, but it shouldn't be more than $10 to send a padded envelope to most places within the US. These are Pete's Long and shorter mods and his Tesla mod that I printed for the Sumatra destruction test. They all survived being shot repeatedly by my Sumatra at over 70 fpe.
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The next two designs are my .22 tesla valve mod, redesigned for .25 cal. Variants are "light weight" and "high FPE" (30 percent heavier).
I will attach one design per post. You (anyone) can decide if you want to print them or not.
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High FPE:
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I have a question.
Do any of you guys sell printed parts?
I might be interested in buying a couple of these.
Hunter
PM sent.
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High FPE TV mod image.
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Peter, thank you for the Tesla valve moderators.
I printed 2 in. 177 and 2 in .22.
I will print 1 more in each caliber.
They work better than any other moderator with similar volume I have tried.
Now I have a few unused moderators.
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I have a question.
Do any of you guys sell printed parts?
I might be interested in buying a couple of these.
Hunter
I could print out the .25 Tesla mod of Pete's for you and mail it to you for $20 if you want one of those, unless you have seen a different type on here that you want. I have an overabundance of white PETG at the moment. Unless you wanted it to stay white I do still have some black satin Rustoleum 2x primer & paint left, which seems to have solvents in it that makes the prints stronger.
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Peter, thank you for the Tesla valve moderators.
...
They work better than any other moderator with similar volume I have tried.
John,
That is good news. I presume you mean that you like the sound. The million dollar question is, what are your comments about grouping with them, compared to other mods?
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Here is a 3mf file which you can pull into your slicer and print.
It is just a good little moderator. This one I've dubbed the "Standard" model because after a couple of years of design, testing, tweaking and shooting it has become the standard whereby I judge other designs (there are many). I've often toyed with the idea of going commercial with these designs but life happens.
Still I am getting a bit long in the tooth and thought it best to get this out there where others can enjoy it as much as I have.
The file is on "thingiverse.com". I have elected not to upload it to this forum. I suppose someone might want to do that but as a courtesy please don't. I'd like to control the design and minimize remixes. If you want to change the design or make a remix by all means help yourself, just change the name of the design.
If you do print one and you find it is worth the effort and want to recommend the design to other folks, please give them this link:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6969058
Thanks
Mike
This one or the Ember.
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Peter, thank you for the Tesla valve moderators.
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They work better than any other moderator with similar volume I have tried.
John,
That is good news. I presume you mean that you like the sound. The million dollar question is, what are your comments about grouping with them, compared to other mods?
I have already installed and shot all 4 of them on my air rifles.
I could not see any changes in accuracy.
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Avenger insert failed during testing today. Accuracy was there and quieting was very satisfactory for the volume. I'll beef it up and soon enough it will be up on www.thingiverse.com
The gun was smokin with 35.8 EunJins at 860 fps for almost 59 fpe. That's considerably more than I had expected.
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I have already installed and shot all 4 of them on my air rifles.
I could not see any changes in accuracy.
Thanks John
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I have another question.
Is it possible to run a tap in into the 1/2-20 threads. I have looked at the specs and I think that I could drill it to 12.5 mm then tap it 14mm-1.25. I haven’t read about anyone machining this stuff
I have ordered a 14 mm tap and a 16-1.25 tap and a metal insert 16 OD, 14 ID.
I will just loctite it in place.
Hunter
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It is common practice to chase a thread to obtain a precise fit. If you want a 14 x 1.25 mm thread it can be printed at that size, but a little tight, so you tap cleans it up.
If this is for a Pinty PCP, I thought those have a 14 x 1 mm pitch. Either way, of you want a given thread size I can get you close by printing. Yes you can drill or bore it out on a lathe and retap to a larger size, but the fewer steps the lower the risk of eccentric or angular errors.
How long is the threaded stud from its front face to the mounting shoulder? Which mod do you want with that thread?
If your question is general, then "yes" depending on your skill. Drilling a thread out may have the drill wobble as it follows the existing thread. A short stiff endmill, or boring bar would be better for recutting a clean hole at the larger size.
One consideration would be the wall thickness of the solid thread boss around the original thread, and how much larger you want to go. 14 mm does not sound too risky, starting with 1/2". It depends on the original design.
Forum member firewalker has done a lot of re-threading printed mods. You could ask him for advice: https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=profile;u=66525
I have another question.
Is it possible to run a tap in into the 1/2-20 threads. I have looked at the specs and I think that I could drill it to 12.5 mm then tap it 14mm-1.25. I haven’t read about anyone machining this stuff
Hunter
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I have another question.
Is it possible to run a tap in into the 1/2-20 threads. I have looked at the specs and I think that I could drill it to 12.5 mm then tap it 14mm-1.25. I haven’t read about anyone machining this stuff
I have ordered a 14 mm tap and a 16-1.25 tap and a metal insert 16 OD, 14 ID.
I will just loctite it in place.
Hunter
If you're going to do that get an M18 x1.5 tap drill it out and tap it. Then buy an EZ Lok insert that is m14 x 1.25 inside and m18x1.5 outside. It will screw right into the tapped hole. Use West system or similar epoxy.
On one of my 150 mm moderators your total run out cannot be more than 0.169 mm per inch or you will have problems with clipping.
You know what that probably won't work with one of my designs. I did not think about it but the design of the attachment on my moderator probably won't allow that much meat to be cut away. On a 25 mm the wall of the threads will probably be maybe 4 mm thick including the threads when it's printed.
If you cut a couple of millimeters out of that you're not going to have enough meat to hold up. I did not do that on purpose. I did it to save weight.
I don't think one of my designs can be adapted that way. Let me know if it works.
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Here is the Avenger moderator insert I've just finished. Unit is 40mm x 189mm with about 130mm extending beyond the muzzle and the rest inside the shroud.
Inquire via PM.
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Mike, okay given all of this information I would like to get a Mamba in 25, and a standard in 177.
Not for Pinty. All 6 of my air rifles are American made. If I lived in Great Britain I would have Daystate, Brocock or Air Arms. If I lived in Sweden then I would have FX. This is for a Jefferson State Air Rifle. It’s the same thread as 14mm spark plug so inserts are easy to find.
The moderator will attach to the barrel tensioner that pulls on the barrel.
I will send a P.M.
Hunter
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I have a question.
Do any of you guys sell printed parts?
I might be interested in buying a couple of these.
Hunter
Here is the .177 Standard you asked for, next to a couple of other, longer suppressors. If you want it black I will paint it for you. I do need an address to send it to as well.
Jared
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Hunter I have the Mamba in .25 printing for you now
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Jared, okay I will send my mailing address.
I have also ordered these with steel inserts from Old Crow.
I will have a bunch for testing. I think I may really like chrony work and night time barn ratting with these.
Hunter
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Jared, okay I will send my mailing address.
I have also ordered these with steel inserts from Old Crow.
I will have a bunch for testing. I think I may really like chrony work and night time barn ratting with these.
Hunter
I've had to kill many a wood rat (pack rat) in the AC ducting that runs under my house with my suppressed Diana Bandit in the middle of the night while my wife was asleep. They get to the size of a small cat and I just lift out a floor register and drop something edible covered in peanut butter down in there and wait with the gun pointed straight down at the bait. It's pretty much the only thing I use that particular PCP pistol for and it is perfect for the job. I shoot the 2-4 of them that make up a family, then wait 4-5 months for another family of them to move in from the forest and repeat the process.
Here's that Mamba mod printing
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0qFVtVSlrts
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I am really intrigued by the whole Tesla valve concept. I read up on it a few months back and I kind of understood it somewhat. It seems that Subscriber and Old Crow Mike have done much more.
( Mike I have worked with some crazy smart individuals and they were almost all old spooks.)
I wonder if anyone has used this Tesla valve concept with turbo chargers in aircraft and automobile engines.
Torqemaster , thank you for the cutaway drawings.
¿Does this pull the BB out faster? JK
Hunter
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Here is the Avenger moderator insert I've just finished. Unit is 40mm x 189mm with about 130mm extending beyond the muzzle and the rest inside the shroud.
Inquire via PM.
Mike,
See attached Avenger moderator ( I think it is Subscribers design ) with stripper that reaches back over barrel.
I like the alignment help from it fitting back over barrel.
If you can combine the twe ?
Robert
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More Avenger mod insert print files here:
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=196584.msg156464714#msg156464714
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=196584.msg156406729#msg156406729
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The Avenger mods should also be a 1:1 fit for an Umarex Origin. Same gun, just not regulated. Many of the other parts can be swapped between the two as well.
Oh, Mike: those updated files you made with the fixes in them seem to working on my Klipper based Neptune printer where the old files had strange banding and lumps and gave "floating section" error messages in Orcaslicer . Cool!
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OK The Wraith is printed and painted for David and the Standard and Mamba are printed and painted for Hunter. Once those are dried I will get them into the mail.
I still need addresses from you both so I can get them sent.
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The mods are ready to be sent off tomorrow. Just waiting on Hunters address now.
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Here is the Avenger moderator insert I've just finished. Unit is 40mm x 189mm with about 130mm extending beyond the muzzle and the rest inside the shroud.
Inquire via PM.
Mike,
See attached Avenger moderator ( I think it is Subscribers design ) with stripper that reaches back over barrel.
I like the alignment help from it fitting back over barrel.
If you can combine the twe ?
Robert
I combined the cut-off inside shroud part from the Avenger model and the Standard model in my slicer program.
It turned out very good. Do not know if is any more quiet, but I think it is.
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Here is the Avenger moderator insert I've just finished. Unit is 40mm x 189mm with about 130mm extending beyond the muzzle and the rest inside the shroud.
Inquire via PM.
Mike,
See attached Avenger moderator ( I think it is Subscribers design ) with stripper that reaches back over barrel.
I like the alignment help from it fitting back over barrel.
If you can combine the twe ?
Robert
I combined the cut-off inside shroud part from the Avenger model and the Standard model in my slicer program.
It turned out very good. Do not know if is any more quiet, but I think it is.
What slicer program are you using?
How did you combine 2 models into 1 model?
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Here is the Avenger moderator insert I've just finished. Unit is 40mm x 189mm with about 130mm extending beyond the muzzle and the rest inside the shroud.
Inquire via PM.
Mike,
See attached Avenger moderator ( I think it is Subscribers design ) with stripper that reaches back over barrel.
I like the alignment help from it fitting back over barrel.
If you can combine the twe ?
Robert
I combined the cut-off inside shroud part from the Avenger model and the Standard model in my slicer program.
It turned out very good. Do not know if is any more quiet, but I think it is.
Nice work. I expect it will be quieter than the original insert. No idea how it will compare with subscriber's work but that "Standard" model is longer than the part you cut off. I think it has one less baffle though. No clipping? I think it looks pretty good too. That base piece is from one of Peter's designs right?
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I use FlashPrint 5 - came with my printer a Flashforge Adventurer 5M Pro
I loaded the Avenger model ( Peter's design ) - cut it 2 mm below the threads and deleted the bottom part ( the section outside of shroud )
I then loaded the Standard-22 model and moved the cut-off part up onto the threaded end of the Standard-22.
I then moved the cut-off part 1 mm down into the Standard-22 and saved to .stl file.
Sliced and printed. - It does have fuzzies - used long 1/4" drill and hand turned.
No clipping.
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More Avenger mod insert print files here:
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=196584.msg156464714#msg156464714
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=196584.msg156406729#msg156406729
I just sent your Avenger insert to my printer. Might get a chance to shoot it tomorrow depending on how my printing goes tonight.
I shot the fuzzies out of the insert I made early this morning but had to run errands all day. One print on the resin printer failed today (Hunters' Ember) but it looks to be back on track to finish tonight. Then the Mamba. That will take all day tomorrow. But it will look good when it is finished.
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Hunter and David's mods are in the mail, tracking numbers sent in PM
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Muzzle cap for AF Talon etc.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7021150
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Sorry forgot pictures...
There are ones with threads for the Airforce OEM moderator insert and ones with the grub screw attachment as you see on any Airforce gun sold without an external moderator. They are caliber specific. Good luck! ;)
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Air Venturi Avenger Moderator file:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7030148
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Well guys sorry for the delay, I've been a bit under the weather for the past few weeks.
I look forward to testing these for hearing protection and for flight path interference.
I will try to post a few pics.
Top pic is the whole kit.
Next is a pic of the Ember and Mamba with metric inserts from OldCrow (Mike the designer of these Tesla valves).
These have a nice flat finish.
Thanks to all of you with printers.
Hunter
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These are from Bduares (Jared). These were the first ones to arrive. I test fired these first on a rifle that didn't have hearing protection built in. Works surprisingly well.
The adapter in the top of the picture is from Airgun Capitol. The adapter connects to the shroud, not the barrel so I must be careful to line it up.
Hunter
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This is a picture of the Spooky and Standard that Torqmaster printed for me.
These seem to be shiny satin compared to the others. I do not know if that is the type of plastic used as filament. The grain seems to finer as well.
Hunter
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I will post about the buying experience in the buyers and sellers gate.
I feel like I have a new box full of toys to play with.
It's pouring rain at the moment.
I will post the results in a separate thread.
Mike, I truly want to thank you for sharing these designs.
I hope that I didn't completely destroy your thread.
apologies!
🙁
Hunter
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;) :D
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This is a picture of the Spooky and Standard that Torqmaster printed for me.
These seem to be shiny satin compared to the others. I do not know if that is the type of plastic used as filament. The grain seems to finer as well.
Hunter
Most of the time I use a regular black PETG filament, as used on these. I am experimenting with matte and Carbon Fiber PETG filaments, but so far none of them have better layer-to-layer adhesion than the regular PETG. That adhesion is the "weak link" in a 3D print, so while the matte and CF options look better (in my opinion) they aren't as strong. The CF has a texture that can even help mask layer lines. Any of them are probably fine to use for lower powered guns/mods -- but it depends on the mod design as well -- these are pretty lightweight / thin walled designs, so I used the strong stuff, not the pretty stuff. ;)
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This is a picture of the Spooky and Standard that Torqmaster printed for me.
These seem to be shiny satin compared to the others. I do not know if that is the type of plastic used as filament. The grain seems to finer as well.
Hunter
Most of the time I use a regular black PETG filament, as used on these. I am experimenting with matte and Carbon Fiber PETG filaments, but so far none of them have better layer-to-layer adhesion than the regular PETG. That adhesion is the "weak link" in a 3D print, so while the matte and CF options look better (in my opinion) they aren't as strong. The CF has a texture that can even help mask layer lines. Any of them are probably fine to use for lower powered guns/mods -- but it depends on the mod design as well -- these are pretty lightweight / thin walled designs, so I used the strong stuff, not the pretty stuff. ;)
Petg can be sanded and it can be made to look as if it was printed on a resin printer.
Start with a good quality wet paper at about 120 grit. After you've got that done most of the layer lines are gone go to 180 to 200 grit. After all the layer lines are gone go to 400 grit. Stick with wet paper and keep it wet. When you finish with 400 you can stop and you'll get a matte finish a very nice matte finish. If you want it to shine take it up to 600 and then 1200 and it'll look like it was injection molded.
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Mike, I just want to confirm that the last one you sent to me is a Wraith in 25 right?
Hunter
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Petg can be sanded and it can be made to look as if it was printed on a resin printer.
Start with a good quality wet paper at about 120 grit. After you've got that done most of the layer lines are gone go to 180 to 200 grit. After all the layer lines are gone go to 400 grit. Stick with wet paper and keep it wet. When you finish with 400 you can stop and you'll get a matte finish a very nice matte finish. If you want it to shine take it up to 600 and then 1200 and it'll look like it was injection molded.
Thanks for the tips, tucked away for future use!
Lately if I want a mod to look better, I add a 3D surface texture -- let the printer do the work to obscure the layer lines. :)
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NOTE; I'll be updating the moderator designs on thingiverse to support the following thread patterns.
1/2x20, 1/2x28, M10x1. M14x1, M14x1.25, M16x1, M18x1, M19x1.5 and M20x1
These are all printed threads. I will not be uploading the stls which support insertion of steel inserts "EZ-TAPs". Those are for sale only.
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Petg can be sanded and it can be made to look as if it was printed on a resin printer.
Start with a good quality wet paper at about 120 grit. After you've got that done most of the layer lines are gone go to 180 to 200 grit. After all the layer lines are gone go to 400 grit. Stick with wet paper and keep it wet. When you finish with 400 you can stop and you'll get a matte finish a very nice matte finish. If you want it to shine take it up to 600 and then 1200 and it'll look like it was injection molded.
Thanks for the tips, tucked away for future use!
Lately if I want a mod to look better, I add a 3D surface texture -- let the printer do the work to obscure the layer lines. :)
Other than the wrinkle finish I do not know how to do that. Probably something I should learn.
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There is also a new design. The Coyote which is set up at 25 & 30 calibers.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7038194
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Lately if I want a mod to look better, I add a 3D surface texture -- let the printer do the work to obscure the layer lines. :)
Other than the wrinkle finish I do not know how to do that. Probably something I should learn.
Since most mods are cylindrical, I create the patterned cylindrical shell in Tinkercad and union it to the mod, overlapping half a mm or so.
For more complicated designs, I have use a Lithophane creation web page to make the shell. A lithophane is very thin print of varying thickness designed to show a photographic image when a light is placed behind it.
Tinkercad has limits on triangle counts/file sizes, but so far it has worked without seriously compromising model details.
I'm pretty sure Cura allows multiple co-located objects to be sliced and printed as a single object -- I haven't explored it -- but that way the shell STL file could be kept separate from the mod STL file.
My nerdy lithophane experiment:
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Sometimes you can find a cylindrical design that can be used as a skin.
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Just saw this
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Well they are getting their tax stamps worth there ;)
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I'm pretty sure Cura allows multiple co-located objects to be sliced and printed as a single object --
Bob, Please send me a cylinder pattern .stl file to fit over a 30mm OD x 126mm length suppressor design. (Standard-22)
My slicer (FlashPrint 5) will allow me to load more than one .stl and slice into one .gx for the printer.
Thanks, Robert ( you should have my email = ster....@gmail )
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The Microsoft 3D Builder program that comes (or came) with windows is great for these types of simple .stl file adjustments and merging. That's how I made the dragon surface LDC.
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I'm starting to think I over think this 3D stuff ???
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My nerdy lithophane experiment:
Are you printing that with an FDM or Resin printer?
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NOTE; I'll be updating the moderator designs on thingiverse to support the following thread patterns.
1/2x20, 1/2x28, M10x1. M14x1, M14x1.25, M16x1, M18x1, M19x1.5 and M20x1
These are all printed threads.
Done
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NOTE; I'll be updating the moderator designs on thingiverse to support the following thread patterns.
1/2x20, 1/2x28, M10x1. M14x1, M14x1.25, M16x1, M18x1, M19x1.5 and M20x1
These are all printed threads.
Done
One more thread if you could please - M20x2 for the Standard and Wraith.
Thanks for all your work
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NOTE; I'll be updating the moderator designs on thingiverse to support the following thread patterns.
1/2x20, 1/2x28, M10x1. M14x1, M14x1.25, M16x1, M18x1, M19x1.5 and M20x1
These are all printed threads.
Done
One more thread if you could please - M20x2 for the Standard and Wraith.
Thanks for all your work
What guns use that?
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Buck Rail adapters use M20x2 for different manufacturers - Beeman, Crosman, Benjamin
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Buck Rail adapters use M20x2 for different manufacturers - Beeman, Crosman, Benjamin
Ok, I'll try to get it up to Thingiverse this week. I'm running some pretty big OpenScad scripts right now and they're going to take 24 hours or so to finish. When they are done I'll get that done.
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My nerdy lithophane experiment:
Are you printing that with an FDM or Resin printer?
That was FDM, Ender 3, white PLA. It prints standing on edge, roughly 3.5mm thick for the darkest parts, and probably 0.4 or 0.5mm for the lightest areas. The source image file was only 600 x 330 -- it might look less edgy with a higher res image.
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Oh, ok. Might give that a try then. I never did a litho because I thought they were for resin printers
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NOTE; I'll be updating the moderator designs on thingiverse to support the following thread patterns.
1/2x20, 1/2x28, M10x1. M14x1, M14x1.25, M16x1, M18x1, M19x1.5 and M20x1
These are all printed threads.
Done
One more thread if you could please - M20x2 for the Standard and Wraith.
Thanks for all your work
You are very welcome, sir. This task has been completed for all the moderator designs which are large enough in diameter to support an 20mm thread. Your M20x2s are up there. Resolution of those stls is about double that of the ones already on the site. That makes the file size larger.
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OK thanks again, I will be going to Thing next
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NOTE; I'll be updating the moderator designs on thingiverse to support the following thread patterns.
1/2x20, 1/2x28, M10x1. M14x1, M14x1.25, M16x1, M18x1, M19x1.5 and M20x1
These are all printed threads.
Done
Now I have to redownload all your moderators :)
I especially appreciate the 1/2-28 and M10x1, since I have a few airguns using that.
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Mike,
Thank you for all your hard work and dedication! I put the .22 Standard on my Avenge-X for a quick test - comically quiet and sounds so cool.
I found your cutoff velocity table after printing the Standard, so now I'm printing the Phantom. Can't wait to try the other designs as well!
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Mike,
Thank you for all your hard work and dedication! I put the .22 Standard on my Avenge-X for a quick test - comically quiet and sounds so cool.
I found your cutoff velocity table after printing the Standard, so now I'm printing the Phantom. Can't wait to try the other designs as well!
Thank you for your kind words. There are about a dozen thread patterns supported in the files up on thingiverse now.
I think you will like that Phantom.
Those numbers are sort of "theoretical". I've got a barrel on the way which will extend beyond the shroud of my Avenger. Maybe then I can get some actual test data on those cut off numbers.
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Yeah, I had it cranked up alittle sending 15gr JSBs at ~1015fps so it would clear cutoff velocity. Same hole at 30yds, but have yet to test at further range. I'll be clearing some brush to hopefully stretch the range to 70yds, so that's then the real testing begins. I just couldn't get over how awesome it sounded lol.
I'm currently printing two of each because my buddy just got a Barra 250z (longer bbl, no built-in mod). It'll be fun testing them on two different platforms. I'll report back some data next time we get together.