Standard 22 Moderator 1/2 UNF x 20

[OldCrow]

Sorry forgot pictures...

There are ones with threads for the Airforce OEM moderator insert and ones with the grub screw attachment as you see on any Airforce gun sold without an external moderator.  They are caliber specific.  Good luck! 

[OldCrow]

Air Venturi Avenger Moderator file:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7030148

[HunterWhite]

Well guys sorry for the delay, I've been a bit under the weather for the past few weeks.

I look forward to testing these for hearing protection and for flight path interference.

I will try to post a few pics.
Top pic is the whole kit.
Next is a pic of the Ember and Mamba with metric inserts from OldCrow (Mike  the designer of these Tesla valves).
These have a nice flat finish. 


Thanks to all of you with printers.

Hunter

[HunterWhite]

These are from Bduares (Jared). These were the first ones to arrive.  I test fired these first on a rifle that didn't have hearing protection built in. Works surprisingly well.

The adapter in the top of the picture is from Airgun Capitol. The adapter connects to the shroud, not the barrel so I must be careful to line it up.

Hunter

[HunterWhite]

This is a picture of the Spooky and Standard that Torqmaster printed for me.

These seem to be shiny satin compared to the others. I do not know if that is the type of plastic used as filament. The grain seems to finer as well.

Hunter

[HunterWhite]

I will post about the buying experience in the buyers and sellers gate.

I feel like I have a new box full of toys to play with.

It's pouring rain at the moment.

I will post the results in a separate thread.


Mike, I truly want to thank you for sharing these designs. 
I hope that I didn't completely destroy your thread.
apologies!
🙁


Hunter

[OldCrow]

  

[TorqueMaster]

This is a picture of the Spooky and Standard that Torqmaster printed for me.

These seem to be shiny satin compared to the others. I do not know if that is the type of plastic used as filament. The grain seems to finer as well.

Hunter

Most of the time I use a regular black PETG filament, as used on these.  I am experimenting with matte and Carbon Fiber PETG filaments, but so far none of them have better layer-to-layer adhesion than the regular PETG.  That adhesion is the "weak link" in a 3D print, so while the matte and CF options look better (in my opinion) they aren't as strong.  The CF has a texture that can even help mask layer lines.  Any of them are probably fine to use for lower powered guns/mods -- but it depends on the mod design as well -- these are pretty lightweight / thin walled designs, so I used the strong stuff, not the pretty stuff. 

[OldCrow]

This is a picture of the Spooky and Standard that Torqmaster printed for me.

These seem to be shiny satin compared to the others. I do not know if that is the type of plastic used as filament. The grain seems to finer as well.

Hunter

Most of the time I use a regular black PETG filament, as used on these.  I am experimenting with matte and Carbon Fiber PETG filaments, but so far none of them have better layer-to-layer adhesion than the regular PETG.  That adhesion is the "weak link" in a 3D print, so while the matte and CF options look better (in my opinion) they aren't as strong.  The CF has a texture that can even help mask layer lines.  Any of them are probably fine to use for lower powered guns/mods -- but it depends on the mod design as well -- these are pretty lightweight / thin walled designs, so I used the strong stuff, not the pretty stuff. 

Petg can be sanded and it can be made to look as if it was printed on a resin printer.

Start with a good quality wet paper at about 120 grit.  After you've got that done most of the layer lines are gone go to 180 to 200 grit.  After all the layer lines are gone go to 400 grit.  Stick with wet paper and keep it wet.  When you finish with 400 you can stop and you'll get a matte finish a very nice matte finish.  If you want it to shine take it up to 600 and then 1200 and it'll look like it was injection molded.

[HunterWhite]

Mike, I just want to confirm that the last one you sent to me is a Wraith in 25 right?

Hunter 

[TorqueMaster]

Petg can be sanded and it can be made to look as if it was printed on a resin printer.

Start with a good quality wet paper at about 120 grit.  After you've got that done most of the layer lines are gone go to 180 to 200 grit.  After all the layer lines are gone go to 400 grit.  Stick with wet paper and keep it wet.  When you finish with 400 you can stop and you'll get a matte finish a very nice matte finish.  If you want it to shine take it up to 600 and then 1200 and it'll look like it was injection molded.

Thanks for the tips, tucked away for future use!

Lately if I want a mod to look better, I add a 3D surface texture -- let the printer do the work to obscure the layer lines. 

[OldCrow]

NOTE;  I'll be updating the moderator designs on thingiverse to support the following thread patterns.
1/2x20, 1/2x28, M10x1. M14x1, M14x1.25, M16x1, M18x1, M19x1.5 and M20x1

These are all printed threads.  I will not be uploading the stls which support insertion of steel inserts "EZ-TAPs".  Those are for sale only.

[OldCrow]

Petg can be sanded and it can be made to look as if it was printed on a resin printer.

Start with a good quality wet paper at about 120 grit.  After you've got that done most of the layer lines are gone go to 180 to 200 grit.  After all the layer lines are gone go to 400 grit.  Stick with wet paper and keep it wet.  When you finish with 400 you can stop and you'll get a matte finish a very nice matte finish.  If you want it to shine take it up to 600 and then 1200 and it'll look like it was injection molded.

Thanks for the tips, tucked away for future use!

Lately if I want a mod to look better, I add a 3D surface texture -- let the printer do the work to obscure the layer lines. 

Other than the wrinkle finish I do not know how to do that.  Probably something I should learn.

[OldCrow]

There is also a new design.  The Coyote which is set up at 25 & 30 calibers.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7038194

[TorqueMaster]

Lately if I want a mod to look better, I add a 3D surface texture -- let the printer do the work to obscure the layer lines. 

Other than the wrinkle finish I do not know how to do that.  Probably something I should learn.

Since most mods are cylindrical, I create the patterned cylindrical shell in Tinkercad and union it to the mod, overlapping half a mm or so.

For more complicated designs, I have use a Lithophane creation web page to make the shell.  A lithophane is very thin print of varying thickness designed to show a photographic image when a light is placed behind it.

Tinkercad has limits on triangle counts/file sizes, but so far it has worked without seriously compromising model details.

I'm pretty sure Cura allows multiple co-located objects to be sliced and printed as a single object -- I haven't explored it -- but that way the shell STL file could be kept separate from the mod STL file. 

My nerdy lithophane experiment:

[WhatUPSbox?]

Sometimes you can find a cylindrical design that can be used as a skin.

[bduares]

Just saw this

[Back_Roads]

 Well they are getting their tax stamps worth there

[Robert 5mm]

I'm pretty sure Cura allows multiple co-located objects to be sliced and printed as a single object --

Bob, Please send me a cylinder pattern .stl file to fit over a 30mm OD x 126mm length suppressor design. (Standard-22)

My slicer (FlashPrint 5) will allow me to load more than one .stl and slice into one .gx for the printer.

Thanks, Robert ( you should have my email = ster....@gmail )

[WhatUPSbox?]

The Microsoft 3D Builder program that comes (or came) with windows is great for these types of simple .stl file adjustments and merging. That's how I made the dragon surface LDC.