GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Projectiles => Boolit and Pellet Casting => Topic started by: avator on March 30, 2023, 03:25:40 PM
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I recently sold a gun which put airgun money in the kitty.
I have plenty of airguns in all platforms that satisfy anything I want to point at and shoot.
So I'm thinking... what would be the most sensible and beneficial thing to add to my airgun experience?
Enter casting...
Since I retired at the end of last year I have more time on my hands than things to do to fill that time. I have also entered the world of fixed income.. don't get me wrong, we live comfortably and nobody is going hungry but, we've made adjustments to insure that. No more buying 3 guns a month and a pickup truck load of pellets to feed them.
Why not cast my own pellets? Save some money and never run into the dreaded "currently out of stock" message.... not to mention the trashed tins that were poorly packed and kicked to my house instead of delivered.
So I'm here to gather info, advice and suggestions on what and where to buy it based on what I want to do.
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Goals...
I have .177, .20, .22 and .25 guns.
In .177:
Several guns that all shoot the standard 10.x pellets well. I have a very good inventory of those and they are common to source at fair pricing... not an issue.
In .20:
I have 3 .20 Sheridans that we don't shoot nearly as often as we used to and I have literally 1000s on hand... not an issue.
.22 and .25:
Here is where I can benefit...
All my .22 guns shoot virtually the same pellets well.. same with my .25 guns. These are also the pellets I have the most problems sourcing..... out of stock, price increase, poor packing... on and on and on. It's, IMO, the biggest downside to airgunning.
I want to take all these junk pellets I have around here, melt them down and turn them into usable ammo that my guns like. And I'm confident I can do that with a couple moulds in each caliber.
I want a 19gr dome in .22 and a 24ish gr HP DM slug (the Urban loves those).
In .25 I want a 28ish gr dome and a 34ish gr dome. All in 3 or 4 pellet drops.
The pot...
I don't need a 20 pounder.. I think a 10# would do me fine... unless y'all convince me otherwise ;)
I'm up in the air about bottom fill or ladle type (dip)... that's kinda why I'm here.
I also think I'll need a hotplate.
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Budget... $200 - $300 Would that do it?
Also I have a question...
A while back I bought 25# of #8 shot to refill shot shells for my Crosman Trapmaster. Can this shot be melted and cast into pellets? Would it work to mix with standard pellet lead?
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Budget... $200 - $300 Would that do it?
Also I have a question...
A while back I bought 25# of #8 shot to refill shot shells for my Crosman Trapmaster. Can this shot be melted and cast into pellets? Would it work to mix with standard pellet lead?
I don't cast for airguns but have been casting for 25 years.Shot is hard it has Antimony.It will say right on the bag.I think you want pure lead or maybe 10/1 lead to tin ratio.salvage yard is a good place to look but pellets are so light new alloy would not be to expensive.A company Roto metals is a seller
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I use a 10lb pot and have never felt the need for a bigger one. Wayne's method made me a good caster pretty quickly. It covers IMHO a lot of casting mistakes inexperienced casters make. A hot plate is a help in maintaining mold temperature but most times I just leave it sitting on the rim of the pot. As far as using the shot I was told it won't work. I wish it would as I have about 20lbs of number 7.5 shot.
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From my limited experience, I bought the #10 bottom pour melter and used it for about 4 months. As soon as I found the #20 bottom pour melter on sale I bought it. Reason? When you get into the swing of things, that 5-6 lb of lead (you never fill the melter to the top-at least I don't) gets used pretty fast. Moulds.... that will be your biggest expense, try and get at least one set of handles from NOE with the moulds.
Of course, this setup puts you at the head of the class. The less costly alternative is a pour ladle and a cast iron pot. PM me if you want a pour ladle.
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Casting is its own rabbit hole. Don't get into it thinking you will save money.
Just like airgus, there is always the next thing to buy. The good stuff cost...
Unless you have a lot of free pure lead you will have to pay for it and the shipping.
Molds are not inexpensive.
Get into because you want to get into casting.
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I would buy the NOE 217-20-RF and the 250—27—RF first. Those two will keep you shooting in both calibers and both are accurate in my guns. Get the 4 cavity molds. Trust me on this. I don't cast in long sessions so I mostly use a 4lb pot and the Lyman ladle. I have 2 10lb bottom pour pots and I've never felt limited with them either. I cast bullets up to 500 grains too. It really depends on how much time you have to and cast.
I'm not a novice caster, and I find the ladle much easier to master when it comes to these small projectiles. Wayne's method produces great results for me.
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Thanks guys..
So, I made my first purchase..
I bought the LEE 10# bottom pour pot from Bass Pro for $89.
Eddie.... thank you, those 2 moulds sound like just what I'm looking for.
BB... incoming PM
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Bill
I have this 25 cal mold, I bought 2 by mistake............ ::)
https://noebulletmolds.com/site/shop/bullet-moulds/251/250-27-rf-cc3-hunter-pellet/250-27-rf-cc3-4-cavity-hb-hunter-pellet/, your price $145.00 and I'll pay the shipping to you.
This mold is Brand new, never used or assembled, will have my finger prints on it.......LOL
Tia,
Don
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Don.... incoming PM.
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Got it and replied............ ;)
Thanks,
Don
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I'm glad you guys are the ones replying to this thread...
You guys, and a few others, are exactly the experience i wanted to hear from.
Ain't this a great place to be?
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Ingot mold and handles are a must for sure. Titan Reloading for those items. Borax from the store for the flux, 20 mule brand.
https://www.titanreloading.com/product-category/lee-precision-reloading-equipment/lee-mold-and-melter-accessories/ (https://www.titanreloading.com/product-category/lee-precision-reloading-equipment/lee-mold-and-melter-accessories/)
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maraudinglizard
Kris,
Thanks for that link, the Lee mold handles 6 Cav are the cheapest I seen in a long while.
Thank You,
Don
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Bill
ML post as cheaper mold handles.............. ;)
Don
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Thanks guys..
So, I made my first purchase..
I bought the LEE 10# bottom pour pot from Bass Pro for $89.
Eddie.... thank you, those 2 moulds sound like just what I'm looking for.
BB... incoming PM
The noe .25 pellet is the most accurate out of my sentry. Hope it's 1 of the molds that will give you the full .256 or .257 diameter skirt.
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Thanks... handles ordered.
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Matt (Insanity) should be by shortly...
I think this exact pellet is one of the samples of pellets that he casts... if so, they work great in my .25 guns.
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Bill,
You have a really good start!
Now, no getting mad at me but this is the best price I have seen on pure lead and, yes, you need pure lead. 8)
https://www.rotometals.com/whole-lead-pig-ingot-57-62-pounds-99-9/ (https://www.rotometals.com/whole-lead-pig-ingot-57-62-pounds-99-9/)
OR: Get it with frees shipping (My Fav)
https://www.rotometals.com/cut-in-half-lead-pig-ingot-57-62-pounds-99-9-with-freight-included/ (https://www.rotometals.com/cut-in-half-lead-pig-ingot-57-62-pounds-99-9-with-freight-included/)
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Matt (Insanity) should be by shortly...
I think this exact pellet is one of the samples of pellets that he casts... if so, they work great in my .25 guns.
Yes I sent some of them off to you aside from I think one new mold I have all usable in. 25 for a air gun. Also if you need lead I can probably hook you up with some.
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As far as lead furnaces go, I have had several over the years and have gravitated back to the "Drip-O-Matic" that you bought, Bill.
I did buy a new 20# LEE bottom pour this past fall and I really like the way it pours but if I were dipping, any of the pots would work and I would absolutely buy LEE over any of the others!
Here's why: I called LEE, Shirley answered, I told her I need to buy a heating element for my 35 year old 10# pot. She got my info and I got a heating element in the mail.
RCBS heating element? Not from RCBS! You have to go to another vendor even though I was quoted $88 from them plus shipping, it never materialized! I got an after market one and promptly sold it after I fixed it. 2 years, 2 flippin years I got out of that $325 pot.
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With casting pellets there are only a few commercial molds, all through NOE. Once you have one or two molds in 22 and 25 I don't see you incurring any more casting expenses, unless you start getting into big bore sluggers, but even then you only need a few molds per caliber. So far Ed has posted the molds I was going to suggest and I think you are off to a good start.
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As far as lead furnaces go, I have had several over the years and have gravitated back to the "Drip-O-Matic" that you bought, Bill.
I did buy a new 20# LEE bottom pour this past fall and I really like the way it pours but if I were dipping, any of the pots would work and I would absolutely buy LEE over any of the others!
Here's why: I called LEE, Shirley answered, I told her I need to buy a heating element for my 35 year old 10# pot. She got my info and I got a heating element in the mail.
RCBS heating element? Not from RCBS! You have to go to another vendor even though I was quoted $88 from them plus shipping, it never materialized! I got an after market one and promptly sold it after I fixed it. 2 years, 2 flippin years I got out of that $325 pot.
I just fired up my 20 pounder tonight for the first time and put the last 20 something pounds of my pig from rotometals through it.
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This is the deal that I always went for prior to getting piles of free lead pipe https://www.rotometals.com/cut-in-half-lead-pig-ingot-57-62-pounds-99-9-with-freight-included/ (https://www.rotometals.com/cut-in-half-lead-pig-ingot-57-62-pounds-99-9-with-freight-included/)
I still have an unopened split pig ingot (58lbs) I bought just before obtaining all the free lead pipe, I've got enough to last me for probably the rest of my life.
I've got a 10lb pot that I use only for casting 1lb ingots, I use a 4lb pot that I use for casting pellets and slugs from using pressure pour method with lil dipper ladle 8)
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I have Lee 6 cavity handles on all of my NOE molds. Take my advice and fire up the drill press as soon as you get them. If you don't pin the handles, one will pop off right in the middle of a casting season. Ask me how I know. ;D
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Looks like Bill has the basics covered, NOE was offering ingots of pure lead at a good price last time I got a mold, I got lead from NOE.
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Yessir....
Here is what I've bought so far...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/334204607563? (https://www.ebay.com/itm/334204607563?)
https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/lee-10-lb-lead-production-pot?hvarAID=shopping_googleproductextensions&ds_e=GOOGLE&ds_c=BPS%7CShopping%7CSmart%7CFishing%7CGeneral%7CNAud%7CNVol%7CNMT&gclsrc=ds (https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/lee-10-lb-lead-production-pot?hvarAID=shopping_googleproductextensions&ds_e=GOOGLE&ds_c=BPS%7CShopping%7CSmart%7CFishing%7CGeneral%7CNAud%7CNVol%7CNMT&gclsrc=ds)
https://noebulletmolds.com/site/shop/bullet-moulds/251/250-27-rf-cc3-hunter-pellet/250-27-rf-cc3-4-cavity-hb-hunter-pellet/ (https://noebulletmolds.com/site/shop/bullet-moulds/251/250-27-rf-cc3-hunter-pellet/250-27-rf-cc3-4-cavity-hb-hunter-pellet/)
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Next I'm going to look at Wayne's method that a few of you have referenced.
I also need to read up on what I need as far as things like Borax and wax (if needed).
I need to learn how to prep and clean.
I still want a hot plate and some way to monitor lead temps.
I think with what I have, as far as lead goes, and the items I have ordered I have enough to dip my toes in.
I'll make some of these .25 pellets and then have a look around for a .22 mould or 2.
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Would someone be so kind as to point me to a link to "Wayne's method" that y'all mentioned?
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Would someone be so kind as to point me to a link to "Wayne's method" that y'all mentioned?
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=179522.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=179522.0)
It's the first pinned post in the gate.
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Full Lead Taco has some helpful videos on the NOE site.
https://noebulletmolds.com/site/full-lead-taco-quick-tips/
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Thanks guys.
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Tips for recycling range scrap.
https://youtu.be/r--ES4mrknA
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JAMES... YOU'RE A GENIUS !!!
I never even gave it a thought...
Some of you might remember me talking about taking this place where we live when my buddy Killer went into the nursing home. You may also remember me talking about the Saturday turkey shoots that would have here every weekend.
Well guess what.... the birm they shot into is still here in it's undisturbed original bank. I am sure that shotguns were not the only thing that was fired into that birm because I personally saw folks shooting all sorts or pistols, rim and center fire ammo into it.
The other nice thing is that, here in lower Alabama, our dirt is sand... no rocks to speak of. I' think I'm going to grab me a bucket of that birm and sift though it.
I just might hit a gold mine of lead.
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I have cast plenty of ammo with melted down reclaimed pellets from my traps. Seems to work just as well as the pure lead I got from Rotometals. My "range scrap" is about half pure lead and half CPHP. I'll probably get more pure lead from Roto in the future, will have to see how much lead is hiding in my various "soft" traps.
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Just made an offer on 20# of Lyman ingots.
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I'm kinda getting excited about doing this..
Now I'm thinking that I want to modify my shooting.
I've always just shot with a wood backstop or no back stop at all.
Now I think I need to come up with better ways to capture and reuse my pellets.
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A little late to the party. I would have recommended the 20lb pot for many reasons for gravity pouring. I know Bob has done a mod to his 10lb pot spout like yours that may be of interest to you. The details of the mod are buried somewhere on here. He said the mod made a big difference in his pours.
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I'm kinda getting excited about doing this..
Now I'm thinking that I want to modify my shooting.
I've always just shot with a wood backstop or no back stop at all.
Now I think I need to come up with better ways to capture and reuse my pellets.
Bill, I use a cardboard box about 12"x12", 2"x12" to fit in the box for a back stop, then in front of the board I pack old t-shirts, this will catch the pellets and make it easy to recover them when the trap is full. Just shake out the shirts and repack. The pellets come out clean and dry. What little shirt material is in the pellets will burn off. I use duct tape to patch it up. It's not heavy and easy to move around or travel with. It beats cleaning the dirt, duct seal, rubber mulch out of the pellets and the risk of nasty fumes and explosion from residual water in the pellets.
(https://i.imgur.com/i7SVr9zm.jpg)
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I'm kinda getting excited about doing this..
Now I'm thinking that I want to modify my shooting.
I've always just shot with a wood backstop or no back stop at all.
Now I think I need to come up with better ways to capture and reuse my pellets.
I like to collect the catalogs and such from the junk mail and once I have enough I make a cardboard box that fits the stack snugly. Then I tape it all up and just keep adding tape as needed. I tape on blank paper and draw on targets, print them out and tape the paper on, or even just put the shoot n see stickers on the trap. Once the trap was gotten worn out or I need lead I cut it open and dump the contents into a wheelbarrow. I fill the wheelbarrow with water and let the paper separate/float away from the lead.
So far this has been a cheap but not the easiest way to do this. I need to pony up the $100-ish and buy a Champion rimfire trap.
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Bill
Since no one has mentioned it yet,
NO LIQUID around the lead pot, set all utensils ect, in or around a hot area to evaporate
ANY moisture that may have collected on them, or in them, any moisture trapped
and then place into hot lead will be a calling for the TINSEL FAIRY, which you don't want.
Over at Cast Boolits forum:
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?83651-A-myth-about-water-and-molten-lead
This is a good post about moisture in lead. There is lots of info on that site also, to get you started,
worth the time spent reading.
HTH's
Don
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I added an old counter top oven and a hot plate to my casting equipment. I can preheat stuff or powder coat with the oven and the hot plate helps keep the molds hot when adding lead, fluxing, etc.
For flux I am adding onto the previous suggestions of 20 mule team borax. I keep all of my casting stuff in an old well ventilated shed, so surface oxidation gets on everything. The borax makes my casts come out looking shiny with minimal culls. Since my casting equipment lives more or less in a tiny carport I do have to frequently remove dross and flux, but eventually I'll have a somewhat temperature controlled environment.
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great source for pure lead..
https://www.seabrookfishingsinkers.fish/2016/ (https://www.seabrookfishingsinkers.fish/2016/)
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Little late to the party, speed read to get here but I did not see this mentioned...
Because I am starting out as cheap as possible, for an ingot mold, I went to the Dollar Store and bought a cup-cake pan.
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Thanks everyone for joining in and offering information and advice. Let me see if I can reply to some of them....
Kris.. I have an old wooden ammo box. It's approx. 12x16x12" deep. I put a 2mm piece of high strength automotive steel in the bottom, Then I filled it with folded up blue jeans and covered it with corrugated election yard sign materiel. I fastened a couple alligator clips to hold targets. I stand it on it's end and shoot away. The spent pellets shake right out of the jeans into the bottom. I wrinkle the jeans all up and repack them... I find old jeans at the thrift stores... cheap.
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Don....
I spent a couple hours this morning watching videos. I learned about things like water dangers and using bee's wax. I learned about how to clean wheel weight lead and separate impurities like zinc.
Which BTW... I went to visit my buddy Pete who owns the tire shop in the next town over. He lead me to a 20 gallon tub full of wheel weights and said I could have all I wanted... I brought home about 20# on this trip.
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Scott...
I saw a video where a guy was making ingots. Walmart sells stainless steel dipping sauce cups on the cheap. Next time in town I'm gonna grab a dozen.
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To all...
I made an offer and scored 22 of these Lyman ingots. 20# total... I paid $52 shipped.
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My next purchase will be some bee's wax, borax and a hot plate.
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If things go as planned, I should be able to drop my first pellets around the middle of next week.
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Bill
In the wheel weight section, go after the flat thin ones, they are pure lead......... ;)
Don
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NICE!
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Thanks for that info Don... yeah, there is a mix of alot of different ones. I'll start by sorting them and then inquire as to what's best.
I've read that the newer they are, the more zinc that has been added.
The good news is, around here in lower Alabama, things tend to be a bit more old school.
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I do beleave or have been lead to beleave all new WW are steel or zinc now. I tried to mess with it and was not worth it because I had to buy it and then decided to say nope and scrapped them and only got shred weight for it. 5 gallon bucket was 60% steel and zinc.
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Yeah Matt, If I had to buy it I wouldn't bother... but free is good... ;)
I figure if I get 5# out of the 20# I snagged today, it might be worth it.
I have a good size cast iron camp style pot and a propane turkey set up.
And Pete told me to take all I wanted.
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Bill, I melted down some wheel weights, and many were covered with plastic, not fun indoors. I was casting weights for another hobby so the zinc or tin content didn't matter.
I will follow because I find this interesting.
Hunter
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Yep, I have a corner of the Red Shed set aside for my casting adventures. It's right next to the 7' roll up door. I also have a 3' commercial pedestal fan to draw the fumes out.
Lol... folks around here are probably going to think I'm running a still... they'll honk and wave when they go by... ;D
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Speaking of such... The chief of police for our town lives just down the road. He was at the first tire shop I stopped at this morning. When he heard what I was planning to do he asked me to give him a call once I got going. He said he was interested in getting into casting him self.
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Yep, I have a corner of the Red Shed set aside for my casting adventures. It's right next to the 7' roll up door. I also have a 3' commercial pedestal fan to draw the fumes out.
Lol... folks around here are probably going to think I'm running a still... they'll honk and wave when they go by... ;D
Personally I recommend putting the fan behind you to push fresh air around and past you and the pot. Unless you plan to put it really close to evac fumes it may not be that great. But really its gonna be hot might as well use it to cool you off also.
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Well, I have another idea in mind as well...
If this thing goes well for me, I'm going to put a louvered fan in the wall above the casting table and build a hood.
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I manage a tire/mechanic shop, and as such I get all my lead free of charge. (the scrap wheel weights that come off the cars)
I know that the hammer on weights have hardeners in them, but the tape on weights are about 98-99% pure lead.
Given that information, can you guess which weights I use for my air rifles?
I am looking for someone that casts for PBs that will trade me his pure lead for my hammer on lead.
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Think I'll head out to the Red Shed and sort some of those weights to see what I actually have. I'll post some pics when I'm done.
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Yep, I have a corner of the Red Shed set aside for my casting adventures. It's right next to the 7' roll up door. I also have a 3' commercial pedestal fan to draw the fumes out.
Lol... folks around here are probably going to think I'm running a still... they'll honk and wave when they go by... ;D
Personally I recommend putting the fan behind you to push fresh air around and past you and the pot. Unless you plan to put it really close to evac fumes it may not be that great. But really its gonna be hot might as well use it to cool you off also.
Good idea but keep in mind that constant air current across the casting area could play havoc with the lead temperatures.
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I manage a tire/mechanic shop, and as such I get all my lead free of charge. (the scrap wheel weights that come off the cars)
I know that the hammer on weights have hardeners in them, but the tape on weights are about 98-99% pure lead.
Given that information, can you guess which weights I use for my air rifles?
I am looking for someone that casts for PBs that will trade me his pure lead for my hammer on lead.
PM me, Ron, I can hook you up.
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Well, I have another idea in mind as well...
If this thing goes well for me, I'm going to put a louvered fan in the wall above the casting table and build a hood.
I want an extraction hood, and a place to put it, in a bad way. Not just for casting ammo.
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Yep, I have a corner of the Red Shed set aside for my casting adventures. It's right next to the 7' roll up door. I also have a 3' commercial pedestal fan to draw the fumes out.
Lol... folks around here are probably going to think I'm running a still... they'll honk and wave when they go by... ;D
Personally I recommend putting the fan behind you to push fresh air around and past you and the pot. Unless you plan to put it really close to evac fumes it may not be that great. But really its gonna be hot might as well use it to cool you off also.
Good idea but keep in mind that constant air current across the casting area could play havoc with the lead temperatures.
You want to draw the smoke away from you without blowing on/across the pot. Also, blowing air against your back creates a low pressure zone in front of you, pulling smoke right into your face.
I use an exhaust fan attached to 8" tin to flex to the outside. The air mix is cool enough to not heat the flex.
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Yep, I have a corner of the Red Shed set aside for my casting adventures. It's right next to the 7' roll up door. I also have a 3' commercial pedestal fan to draw the fumes out.
Lol... folks around here are probably going to think I'm running a still... they'll honk and wave when they go by... ;D
Personally I recommend putting the fan behind you to push fresh air around and past you and the pot. Unless you plan to put it really close to evac fumes it may not be that great. But really its gonna be hot might as well use it to cool you off also.
Good idea but keep in mind that constant air current across the casting area could play havoc with the lead temperatures.
You want to draw the smoke away from you without blowing on/across the pot. Also, blowing air against your back creates a low pressure zone in front of you, pulling smoke right into your face.
I use an exhaust fan attached to 8" tin to flex to the outside. The air mix is cool enough to not heat the flex.
Pre...zactly David,, sir!! It is very much like the fumes hood I had at the old house for my glass work.
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Yep, I have a corner of the Red Shed set aside for my casting adventures. It's right next to the 7' roll up door. I also have a 3' commercial pedestal fan to draw the fumes out.
Lol... folks around here are probably going to think I'm running a still... they'll honk and wave when they go by... ;D
Personally I recommend putting the fan behind you to push fresh air around and past you and the pot. Unless you plan to put it really close to evac fumes it may not be that great. But really its gonna be hot might as well use it to cool you off also.
Good idea but keep in mind that constant air current across the casting area could play havoc with the lead temperatures.
You want to draw the smoke away from you without blowing on/across the pot. Also, blowing air against your back creates a low pressure zone in front of you, pulling smoke right into your face.
I use an exhaust fan attached to 8" tin to flex to the outside. The air mix is cool enough to not heat the flex.
Pre...zactly David,, sir!! It is very much like the fumes hood I had at the old house for my glass work.
Yep, this is exactly what I had in mind. I actually have a flexible dryer exhaust kit new in the box. I can attach it to a hood of sorts and I have a fan should be close to fitting right in it.
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Here is my wheel weight pile....
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That ingot is the one I found in the barn a few years ago.
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any weights that have "FE" on them are steel.
Any that have "Zn" are zinc.
The steel will be easy to separate... use a magnet.
The Zinc ones will have a definite "Ring" sound to them if you tap them on another piece of steel.
When you are doing your cleaning melt, as soon as the lead becomes silver liquid, whatever you missed as far as the steel, or zinc will be on the surface, and easily separated from the rest of the melt before they contaminate the rest of the pot. Zinc melts at about 100* hotter than the lead does, so watch your melt, and it will be obvious which ones need to be removed.
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any weights that have "FE" on them are steel.
Any that have "Zn" are zinc.
The steel will be easy to separate... use a magnet.
The Zinc ones will have a definite "Ring" sound to them if you tap them on another piece of steel.
When you are doing your cleaning melt, as soon as the lead becomes silver liquid, whatever you missed as far as the steel, or zinc will be on the surface, and easily separated from the rest of the melt before they contaminate the rest of the pot. Zinc melts at about 100* hotter than the lead does, so watch your melt, and it will be obvious which ones need to be removed.
Thanks Ron... that's exactly what I saw on the videos I watched this morning. That made me feel confident I could get some good lead from the weight.
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What the.
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Bill GL pm me or text me pics.
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What the.
You ok?
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I saw a 12" speaker down in the barn in my travels. I'm sure it's no good because been exposed to the elements for years. Tomorrow I'm going to cut the magnet out of it. Also going to look around for a good wooden knocker. I may even put that exhaust hood together.
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Cast Boolits is another great resource. One thing I want to point out is that wax isn't a flux. Dry sawdust is one the best in my opinion. I use it when I'm making ingots. Once you have clean ingots, you don't need to flux again in the casting pot.
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/archive/index.php/t-251154.html
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Got tracking on the pot..
So the pot and the mould should both be here Monday.
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Regular candle wax is generally paraffin. Bee's wax is much cleaner.
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I've been informed that I need to prep the new mould. I'll do some research on that as well.
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I've been informed that I need to prep the new mould. I'll do some research on that as well.
It will come with instructions from NOE.
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Well... not so much...
I bought it new from another member. He bought 2 by mistake. I'm not sure if he has the original paper work but, he has taken the time to completely explain what I need to do. I saved his directions and if I have questions, I'm sure he will talk me through.
It's kinda like anything else new... it will need seasoned in.
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I saw a 12" speaker down in the barn in my travels. I'm sure it's no good because been exposed to the elements for years. Tomorrow I'm going to cut the magnet out of it. Also going to look around for a good wooden knocker. I may even put that exhaust hood together.
May I suggest using Delrin? It lasts hundreds of times longer than wood and you can use a lot less force with it.
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Well... not so much...
I bought it new from another member. He bought 2 by mistake. I'm not sure if he has the original paper work but, he has taken the time to completely explain what I need to do. I saved his directions and if I have questions, I'm sure he will talk me through.
It's kinda like anything else new... it will need seasoned in.
Here you go:
"Thank you for purchasing our bullet moulds.
We offer the following tips for keeping your mould like new.
Always close the mould carefully – damage to the alignment pins and seats will cause out of
round bullets.
To season our moulds – run it up to operating temperature (about 350 deg. to 400 deg.) and
let it cool back down to room temp. Do this three or four times. This will give the alignment
pins a chance to seat in. Our molds are engineered to operate at below 600 deg. Running
aluminum moulds hotter than necessary shortens their life substantially and can loosen the alignment pins.
Let the sprue cool before cutting – be careful that the sprue has cooled, if lead smears
across the top of the mould it is not cooled.
Some bullet designs may stick – bullets with a lot, or deep lube grooves and sharp angles
may stick in your mould. If this happens tap on the hinge of the handles with your casting
mallet as you open the mould, the bullet will usually fall out. You may have to repeat the
above with certain designs.
We have furnished you with a sample of Bull Plate lube – To use bring mould up to casting
temperature. Fill cavities with your melt. Cut sprue. Dampen a Q-tip with Bull Plate and lightly
coat top of blocks (with cavities filled) and bottom of sprue plate. Wipe off excess with clean
end or Q-tip. This should go along way in keeping your mould like new.
Thanks again for purchasing our moulds"
Swede Nelson
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Notice he did not say a thing about filling it up with smoke, washing with Dawn and a toothbrush or any such nonsense? Modern molds are ready to go, if you are unsure, spray it down with brake cleaner, let dry and preheat.
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LOL David...
I had just copied that and was getting ready to paste when I saw you had posted. So I pasted it to a text on my desktop... tomorrow I will print it.
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Notice he did not say a thing about filling it up with smoke, washing with Dawn and a toothbrush or any such nonsense? Modern molds are ready to go, if you are unsure, spray it down with brake cleaner, let dry and preheat.
I don't smoke my cavities but smoking the pins will help your hollow points and pellets drop off easier.
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Notice he did not say a thing about filling it up with smoke, washing with Dawn and a toothbrush or any such nonsense? Modern molds are ready to go, if you are unsure, spray it down with brake cleaner, let dry and preheat.
I don't smoke my cavities but smoking the pins will help your hollow points and pellets drop off easier.
Polishing does the same thing but without the surface imperfections the soot will cause.
Hey, whatever floats your boat, my friend. Im just saying that there are a lot of old rules for molds out there due to imperfect surfaces that have all but disappeared with modern machining.
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LOL... it's kinda like an old guy said on a video I watch today..
I'm not trying to win a blue ribbon with my bullets at the county fair... I'm casting them to shoot them.
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Bill, this is what I use for a knocker... it works well, and is CHEAP
https://www.ebay.com/itm/233807465610 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/233807465610)
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My biggest advice is if you are happy with the results cast load choot.
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I have one of the NOE knockers I dont like it as much as my lead hammer. It works great but dose not tuck in my armpit well.
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Yep... I have lots of options around here for knockers.
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I use a cheap leathercraft maul, about $15 on Amazon, 1.5 lb or so.
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Yeah, I got some old sections of oak handles.
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Yep... I have lots of options around here for knockers.
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Bill
The instruction as provided by NOE are inside the box..............
Tia,
Don
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Bill
The instruction as provided by NOE are inside the box..............
Tia,
Don
YES !! TY sir.
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Yep... I have lots of options around here for knockers.
Like I said... I am cheap.
My knocker is a stick of walnut.
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My knocker is a 9" section of 2x4, with a 1 inch dowel for a handle gives me a large striking area so I do not miss ;) it does chip off some wood, but I repurpose the sawdust ;)
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Woke up this morning with my lower back all jacked up from bouncing around for 2 hours on the z turn yesterday but I still plan on working on an exhaust hood a fan. I'll keep my eyes open for a knocker in my travels.
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Dab a Q-Tip with some 2-cycle oil and hit the pin tips with it to help the HPs drop off until you get the pins hot enough. Not too much oil to ruin your cast though. The oil is good for the mold pins and sprue plate as well.
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Woke up this morning with my lower back all jacked up from bouncing around for 2 hours on the z turn yesterday but I still plan on working on an exhaust hood a fan. I'll keep my eyes open for a knocker in my travels.
Remember, if your mold is set up correctly you shouldn't have to more than just tap the hinge on the mold handles to get the casting to drop from the mold.
Dab a Q-Tip with some 2-cycle oil and hit the pin tips with it to help the HPs drop off until you get the pins hot enough. Not too much oil to ruin your cast though. The oil is good for the mold pins and sprue plate as well.
Full synthetic 2 smoke oil only. If it has any petroleum oil in it it will coke up and not let the mold close all of the way. Don't ask me how I know.😞
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Took a ride to Troy, Al this morning. At Walmart I picked up a nice heavy SS sauce pan and a single burner hot plate for melting down melting down the wheel weights. Also some beeswax.
Stopped at the thrift store and found a perfect non coated 6 muffin pan for making lead pucks... also a heavy (old school) SS table spoon for scooping off the dross.
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OK... another Noob question.
I have been using wax for flux and it seems to draw out the impurities (draus) well and I can then skim it off.
Now I read wax is not a flux...and sawdust is... So why is candle wax (paraffin) even suggested?
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Wax is a reductant it puts tin back into solution.
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Nothin' says lovin' like 7 hot muffins.... ;D
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And this is the trash that's left over...
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Not bad
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Free is good.. ;)
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Steel weights stuck to the magnet and were tossed aside.
Zinc had the ZN initials on it and if I missed one they melt much slower and the steel clips don't melt at all. So I can watch it and once the lead melts, I can scoop off all the zinc and steel along with the draus and pour the remaining lead into the muffin pan.
Once I get it to the LEE pot for pouring pellets, I'll add the beeswax which should bring any remaining impurities to the top. Bottom pouring pellets should be nice and clean providing I don't let the pot run low.
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All said and done, it took about an hour. Betty Lou was a big help... she sorted steel and zinc weights with the magnet and visual.
We really enjoyed it and look forward to making pellets.
That was about a half of a normal water bucket of the lead weights... next week I'll go see Pete and get a whole 5 gallon bucket of wheel weights.
Also... I have that 1 ingot of Lyman lead and the other 20# I bought just left Jersey.
I'll separate these pellets from the ones poured with the known lead ingots and see if there is any weight or accuracy differences.
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Nothin' says lovin' like 7 hot muffins.... ;D
Now you're cookin' ;D
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But wait.. there's more....
I gathered up a bunch of tins of pellets that I've collected over the years.... you know, the misfits that no gun will shoot. The ones some would use for breaking in a new springer.
Or... the ones worthy of smelting into ingots.... ;)
I raided only one of my pellet stash locations... I have 2 more stash locations to go.
Betty Lou and I opened the tins and dumped them in. I was very surprised at the amount of draus that rose to the top. I mean, some straight up dirt looking junk
I'm not sure if it made a difference but I did add a small pea size scoop of Murray's beezwax.
We got 5 more muffins.
We got more flippin muffins around here than Drunkin Dognuts (spelling).
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Tune in next week for lead birthday cake decorating.... :o
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OK... another Noob question.
I have been using wax for flux and it seems to draw out the impurities (draus) well and I can then skim it off.
Now I read wax is not a flux...and sawdust is... So why is candle wax (paraffin) even suggested?
http://www.sixguns.com/crew/simplefluxing.htm
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OK... another Noob question.
I have been using wax for flux and it seems to draw out the impurities (draus) well and I can then skim it off.
Now I read wax is not a flux...and sawdust is... So why is candle wax (paraffin) even suggested?
http://www.sixguns.com/crew/simplefluxing.htm
That was a nice read! Makes sense with everything I've learned about chemistry in college. I use borax myself along wtih sawdust that makes its way into my reclaimed lead. I make plenty milling lumber, cutting firewood, using my carpentry saws, etc. Just have to make sure its dry!
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I plan to try various methods to see what works best for me, if needed, not to be confused what works best for others...
Like I said early, I watched an hour long video this morning from a guy who has been casting for 40 years and I tend to respect that.
He showed the ways of old and the current processes, which he is now encorporating.... to a certain level.
To me that speaks volumes... it tells me that he is willing to apply new methods.... whatever produces the best results.
His recomendation was beeswax.... nothing more, nothing less. That is the method I will try first...if it works for me, I can't think of a resaon to do anythng differently.
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I've met a few contractors that had been doing things wrong for 40 years and didn't see any reason to change. I've even done things one way for many years only to find a better way later, even though what I was doing did work.
I think beeswax or paraffin is good to use, especially if you have tin in the melt that you want to keep present. Otherwise, just use borax or sawdust to actually flux the lead. Using chemistry can be fun!
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Copy... I get it..
Heck, I just want my free pellets to hit what I aim at.... ;)
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Copy... I get it..
Heck, I just want my free pellets to hit what I aim at.... ;)
Me too! Speaking of I need to get some casting done this weekend while its too windy to shoot.
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:o
Wow them are some Big Bore Slugs there ;D
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=207107.0;attach=430598;image)
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All the NOE airgun molds specifically call for pure lead to begin with.
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Use paraffin wax to mix the tin back into the lead. Then use borax to remove the impurities/draus. Any zinc in the lead will ruin the lead. Sawdust will clog a gravity spout.
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All the NOE airgun molds specifically call for pure lead to begin with.
So how does that work with your recycled water pipe? Is that pure lead?
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Just smelted 5 more pucks with the #8 lead shot...
I know it's been reported that the tin content it high but, I'm in learning mode and I am the kinda person that has to see things for himself.
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Simple lead hardness test can be done with a #2 pencil, soft lead will engrave way before you break the graphite.
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Good to know... some of the tricks of the trade.
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All the NOE airgun molds specifically call for pure lead to begin with.
So how does that work with your recycled water pipe? Is that pure lead?
NOE is just referring to the weight to expect when specifying pure lead. Pure lead is not required. It is good to have 5% tin mixed in with pure lead to help the mold to fill out better.
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Lead pipe is pure lead, that's all I've been using for the last couple years now, I use to use it a lot before I ran out of what I had found in the past metal detecting,
after that I started buying split pig ingots from Rotometals until a contractor for the city left me piles of lead pipe, I still have a big pile to melt in my 10lb caster yet.
The Junctions on lead pipe aren't any good so cut those out.
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Yep... I have alot to learn but, I'm ready.
Thanks again to all who have joined in this thread.
Hang out, we're just getting started.... ;)
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All the NOE airgun molds specifically call for pure lead to begin with.
So how does that work with your recycled water pipe? Is that pure lead?
NOE is just referring to the weight to expect when specifying pure lead. Pure lead is not required. It is good to have 5% tin mixed in with pure lead to help the mold to fill out better.
Tin makes the pellets harder and also takes a lower temp to melt the mix. All my pellets/slugs for airguns are 4bhn which is as soft as you can get, softer the better for airguns because powder
burners have harder barrels and can take the hard lead more than an airgun barrel. Muzzle Loaders also require pure lead as well and that's all I've ever used in them as well. Years ago you could buy
plumbers lead in 5lb cakes all over however the only place I've found it recently is Lowes but the prices are crazy, you can also buy it a gun shops but the prices are insane.
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Well, I have a pile to test and I can't think of a better test tube than a Chinese 705 .25.
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Any which.... that's a wrap from the Red Shed for the evening. My mini beer fridge is empty. Time to go in the house and get me a ham sammich and watch some recorded NASCAR or some such.
.... to be continued.
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Bill
Here is some info on pellet hardness, that you can test your self.
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=149581.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=149581.0)
Another good read, for casting lead,
http://www.lasc.us/fryxell_book_contents.htm (http://www.lasc.us/fryxell_book_contents.htm)
HTH's
Don
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Soft lead pretty much negates having to clean barrels too, the only time I clean a barrel is when it's new or I bought it on ebay, Crosman pellets are terrible on barrels because they're loaded
with antimony. Even the JSB's have a small amount of antimony in them so if I happen to use them in my trap I take them out and trash them before melting all the pure lead stuff.
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OK... another Noob question.
I have been using wax for flux and it seems to draw out the impurities (draus) well and I can then skim it off.
Now I read wax is not a flux...and sawdust is... So why is candle wax (paraffin) even suggested?
There is a MILLION old wives tails about casting, flux (we are not fluxing anything!) and dros. If you want the actual chemistry, google it but for the majority of us casters, bee's wax is a really good all-in-one "flux" as it provides the "flux" of the sawdust as well as attractant that paraffin supplies.
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Soft lead pretty much negates having to clean barrels too, the only time I clean a barrel is when it's new or I bought it on ebay, Crosman pellets are terrible on barrels because they're loaded
with antimony. Even the JSB's have a small amount of antimony in them so if I happen to use them in my trap I take them out and trash them before melting all the pure lead stuff.
I guess I dont have any problems with CPHP's or JSB's and use both to cast slugs and pellets from all the time.
"Crosman pellets are terrible on barrels" is a pretty broad statement with no supporting evidence.
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I haven't bought pellets or slugs for a long time so I just stick with pure lead because it works fantastic in my airguns and muzzle loaders.
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I haven't bought pellets or slugs for a long time so I just stick with pure lead because it works fantastic in my airguns and muzzle loaders.
Exactly what I been saying... I've got a few things to test for myself. I'll find which works best for me and that is what I'll use and how I'll do it.
All these suggestions and methods are great, without them I wouldn't even know where to begin. But at the end of the day I'm still going to do what works for me, until it don't.
If what I do hit's the little spot that I aim at 35yds out then my goal has been reached.
As for dirty barrels, ain't that why they make barrel cleaning kits?
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And BTW... it looks like I'll be able to start getting some of those results tomorrow. All my tracking shows that everything I need to start dropping pellets is still on track to deliver tomorrow.
I got batteries in my digital calipers, scale and chronograph. Got my pencil sharpened and my log journal at the shooting bench and today I'll get my pellet trap fixed up and a stack of targets printed.
Let's Go !!
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Nice Bill, it is rather soothing to cast... I find myself loosing track of time.
Thanks to all for the helpful links and posts.
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Yeah it is...
Even just smelting down all this lead yesterday was an enjoyable adventure.
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Soft lead pretty much negates having to clean barrels too, the only time I clean a barrel is when it's new or I bought it on ebay, Crosman pellets are terrible on barrels because they're loaded
with antimony. Even the JSB's have a small amount of antimony in them so if I happen to use them in my trap I take them out and trash them before melting all the pure lead stuff.
I guess I dont have any problems with CPHP's or JSB's and use both to cast slugs and pellets from all the time.
"Crosman pellets are terrible on barrels" is a pretty broad statement with no supporting evidence.
I would say borax is a good idea if you are recovering lead from the outdoors, but as you said, wax will reduce oxidized things back into the melt and leave some dross. Most of my lead has some oxide, so I use borax and scoop everything off the top.
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I've been seriously thinking about building another black powder gun for turkey, or maybe even buying one, casting buckshot for turkey would be a perfect combo for
a long smooth bore and casting would be fun also, I've got a boatload of ingots I bought by mistake that would work good in it. In the last few months I've been
casting a lot of .22 wad cutters and it's probably cast as many as any other single mold that I have, they're perfect in all my vintage pistols too, I'm sure they'd work
perfect in many of the vintage Crosman rifles as well (especially something like the 101's).
(https://i.imgur.com/X1OFYwA.jpg)
These are awesome in my Crosman 362
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I still have some of those that you sent to me Wayne.
No wait... those I have might be .25... I'll have to look today.
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Bill it won't be long and you won't have to worry about using up 22 and above pellets because all you'll need now is lead, I do highly recommend the pressure
pour method though it is really nice for filling out those tiny cavities good. Bob Sterne has good luck casting his pellets/slugs with his modified bottom pour also.
I never really got into the bottom pour myself but for ease of casting it's probably nice. Aluminum molds are much easier on the wrist but the brass ones give
a nice finish.
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As y'all may have guessed by now, I sold a gun to fund this new phase of my airgunning experience. It's my ultimate goal to "cut the cord" on all pellet purchases save the .20 cal. for the 3 Streaks.
That said, I would also like to cull my guns to the ones that shoot my chosen pellet in each caliber.
Since 2013 I have experienced about 300 airguns. After selling/trading we have around 100 of them around here. Most in shooting condition, some needing some TLC and some needing complete resurrection.
It's pretty obvious I'm not going to get 100 guns shooting the same pellet in their respective calibers. So to that end, save for a few special guns, I plan on doing some serious culling. Those funds will afford me the molds for .177 and .22.
Nobody need 100+ airguns.... well, at least I don't.
In .25 I have 2 PCP guns and a gas ram... I think I'm good there.
.177 and .22 are the ones I need to weed out. I also have a buttload of pistols... mostly C02. I'm sure I can cut those down to 4 or 5.
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Bill it won't be long and you won't have to worry about using up 22 and above pellets because all you'll need now is lead, I do highly recommend the pressure
pour method though it is really nice for filling out those tiny cavities good. Bob Sterne has good luck casting his pellets/slugs with his modified bottom pour also.
I never really got into the bottom pour myself but for ease of casting it's probably nice. Aluminum molds are much easier on the wrist but the brass ones give
a nice finish.
Yeah Wayne... I got some learning to do.
As I said in my previous post... I'll be looking for my .22 mold next, soon as I sell another gun to fund it. At this point I have alot of .22 ammo on hand so I'll be spending time refining my casting in .25 only. I have even more pellets on hand in .177 so that will be third in line.
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Think I am 20 guns short of 100, my cut off point ;) maybe ???
Took me less than 4 years to reach the 1000 club at NOE, so be warned, but I do have molds in all my calibers, .177, .22 .25 .30 .357, and .50, just waiting on a .20 and BBT in .177.
They do shoot in a good majority of my guns, and casting slugs is way cheaper to experiment with than a tin of such, from a manufacture.
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James... I have absolutely no use for anything bigger than .25. And truth be known, I probably don't even need the .25. But I love that "smack factor". ;D
So I can avoid investing in those larger caliber molds.
Ultimate goal would be 1 mold in each of the 3 calibers and guns that shoot them well... anything else will be novelty or moved on outta here.
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Don't you have a lever action Seneca?
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Don't you have a lever action Seneca?
Nope. sold it... and that is the one and only gun I sold that I truly miss.
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That gun went to Will Piatt for a full treatment on it's way out of the country to it's new owner.
It was the Sam Yang .25 Sumatra carbine. If I'm not mistaken, it was from before Seneca got involved.
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Don't you have a lever action Seneca?
Nope. sold it... and that is the one and only gun I sold that I truly miss.
Now that you are getting into casting, might be a good time to pick up another.
Much cheaper to feed.
I find myself looking for a 909 again. ::)
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Don't you have a lever action Seneca?
Nope. sold it... and that is the one and only gun I sold that I truly miss.
Now that you are getting into casting, might be a good time to pick up another.
Much cheaper to feed.
I find myself looking for a 909 again. ::)
Nope, nope, nope... all in and all done. ;)
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One of these days NOE will put those 17/20 cal molds on the site,
I have over $500 just waiting to push the button...............
if I live long enough... ::)
Tia,
Don
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One of these days NOE will put those 17/20 cal molds on the site,
I have over $500 just waiting to push the button...............
if I live long enough... ::)
Tia,
Don
yeah, those 2 are the least important to me. We don't shoot the 3 Dans much and the .177 is usually cheap and easy to find. Most of my .177 shoot the 10.5 domes well... and I have a truckload of those.
I went to the bar/mancave this morning and scraped up enough junk pellets to make 3 more muffins.
I know I have enough in the totes down in the barn that came from the old shop when we moved to probably make a couple more. And I still have my compartment containers to go through.
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100+ air guns? WOW! I feel like I'm drowning with the few I have, three are already boxed up for sale but the market for them is soft right now so I may wait until they are no longer for sale commercially.
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Many of those are vintage and classic hanging in the bar/mancave as decor but they all function. Maybe 25 or so.
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Momma would hang ME on the wall first! ;)
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LOL.... about 25% of them belong to her. Many guns I purchased in pairs so we could shoot together.
That Sentry you have will be hers if we get it running.
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I may pick up a .22 mold someday. I only cast .25 and up. .22 still comes 500 to a tin and are small to work and to size and see good to cull. Plus, I stocked up on .22 cal back when prices were reasonable years ago and rarely shoot .22 cal. I like the bigger bangs but sometimes need the safer shooting of the .22 cal tuned at only 30 fpe.
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LOL.... about 25% of them belong to her. Many guns I purchased in pairs so we could shoot together.
That Sentry you have will be hers if we get it running.
I am still in the middle of my honey-do list, I expect to get it shipped this coming week. Good news is that the "greenhouse" is set up and 1/2 the seeds are planted, she will do the rest today after Ch**ch today.
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Betty Lou is on me to set her up a hot house.... I should probably get after that.
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Good morning and welcome to "C" day...
Well, at least I'm optimistic of that.. providing USPS and FedEx hold up their ends of the bargain.
I am however, confident enough that I will brave the current thunder storm and take the walk to the end of the driveway to open the gate for delivery vehicles to have access to the property.
Speaking of being brave... I've informed Betty Lou that I will be using her beloved kitchen oven to tempur the mold. :o
As you could imagine she showed a certain level of concern. She finally conceded with the understanding that I not touch the air fryer oven. That thing has way too many buttons on it for me anyways.
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Bill I've always done two one hour sessions with a cool down between for aluminum molds, it's not as critical with brass because brass doesn't need the curing like aluminum. I've only
done 1 hour sessions with my brass molds. 300 degreesF is what I use for a temperature.
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I think today I'll scrounge up some lead and cast some 45 BBTs and 22 Hunters.
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Bill I've always done two one hour sessions with a cool down between for aluminum molds, it's not as critical with brass because brass doesn't need the curing like aluminum. I've only
done 1 hour sessions with my brass molds. 300 degreesF is what I use for a temperature.
Thanks Wayne...
The mold and handles came in. Still waiting for FedEx to deliver the pot.
In the meantime I've brought the aluminum NOE mold to 500 degrees. Now I'm letting it cool to cycle it again as per the NOE instructions. This mold also came with 3 sets of pins at various lengths... I assume they are to make 3 different weight options?
If so, that's a great option.
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flat, dimple and hollow point..
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I'm not so sure... this is an mplat mold.. these are the pins that go in the tail end of the pellet where the bolt probe of the gun goes in.
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I'll post picture after FedEx arrives.. I can't see them pull in from the Red Shed.
And I'm not so bold as to ask Betty Lou to go out in the thunder storm to meet them... :o
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Use the longest pin for the lightest pellet and go from there.
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Sorry, I thought you have a slug mold..
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Use the longest pin for the lightest pellet and go from there.
Exactly
Nice option
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Mold heat cycle #2... :D
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Bill it won't be long and you won't have to worry about using up 22 and above pellets because all you'll need now is lead, I do highly recommend the pressure
pour method though it is really nice for filling out those tiny cavities good. Bob Sterne has good luck casting his pellets/slugs with his modified bottom pour also.
I never really got into the bottom pour myself but for ease of casting it's probably nice. Aluminum molds are much easier on the wrist but the brass ones give
a nice finish.
Missed this Wayne...
I watched your video on the pressure pour. I plan on trying that when my dipper comes in.
Meantime I'll try my hand at bottom pour.
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Bill did you get the NOE 250-27-FN mold ? I'll be casting up some of those soon myself as well, I just pulled out my Gen2 DAR, it's still full for about a year ago when I finally fixed it after getting
defective parts from the get go, I'm going to put a scope on it and take it out to the state land soon with it, it will be the first time that guns ever been in the woods.
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I haven't cast since fall and it took me a while to get back into the swing of things. I managed 72 good 45 cal HP BBTs in an hour. Pretty soon I'll need to raid my traps and order more lead!
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Bill did you get the NOE 250-27-FN mold ? I'll be casting up some of those soon myself as well, I just pulled out my Gen2 DAR, it's still full for about a year ago when I finally fixed it after getting
defective parts from the get go, I'm going to put a scope on it and take it out to the state land soon with it, it will be the first time that guns ever been in the woods.
Wayne....
This is what I got...
https://noebulletmolds.com/site/shop/bullet-moulds/251/250-27-rf-cc3-hunter-pellet/250-27-rf-cc3-4-cavity-hb-hunter-pellet/
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FedEx is killin' me... I'm 'bout get in my truck and drive around 'til I find him... :o
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I always cast them with the lightest pins myself, if they're doing over 900 fps I'll probably use my Magnum Hunters (NOE 250-34.RF) that weigh 34.5g's. It's been so long
since I set the regulator in the gun I'll first run it over the chrony first.
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FedEx is killin' me... I'm 'bout get in my truck and drive around 'til I find him... :o
With UPS here in this town they even give a little map to see where the truck is at.
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yeah, it came with the lightest pins in it.... the longest anyways... I assume they are the lightest.
I have my scale at the ready to compare weights from the different leads I have smelted (tire weights, reclaimed pellets and the Lyman ingot).
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FedEx is killin' me... I'm 'bout get in my truck and drive around 'til I find him... :o
With UPS here in this town they even give a little map to see where the truck is at.
UPS was doing that here for a while but it stopped for some reason.
I used to call Betty Lou from work and tell her to go to the door because they just turned onto our road.
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Bill that's going to be hard lead for sure.
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Wayne...
I cast maybe 32 (8 drops of 4) pellets from the reclaimed pellets and got 28 good pellets after I figured out how to pour.
I shot maybe 5 rounds and they hit at 35yds right where I have the gun sighted in from the same pellet Matt sent me.
I weighed the ones you see in the first pic and they ranged from 26.90 to 27.10gr.
The second pic is from the same pile I just tried to get a better pic.
Tomorrow I will get out there and cast a bunch. I'll get better pics.
They sure are purty ;D nice and shiny.
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I also need a temp gauge.. I'm just guessing for now.
I put the pot on high until 2 muffins melted, then I turned it down to half.
They seem to pour good and they absolutely shoot good.
Here's the thing... if they save me money and hit where I aim... I'm good. I don't hunt and I'm not in the pellet selling business.
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Oh and BTW... if you haven't guessed... FedEx got here around 2ish.
Poor little girl was soaking wet and I could see by the look on her face she was not having a good day.
I thanked her politely and headed for the Red Shed.
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Bill you have the right attitude of not letting what others stress about get to you. If you are happy with the results keep at it mang.
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It's all good Matt... I asked for help.
I'm the kind of guy that likes to be shown how to do things and then left to modify it to my own way.
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I do have another question..
Is there any downside to dropping the hot pellets into water to cool them?
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I do have another question..
Is there any downside to dropping the hot pellets into water to cool them?
Water dropping or quenching will harden lead alloy but has no effect on pure lead.
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Google "annealing" vs "tempering" vs "Quenching". ;)
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Bill, just let them cool on their own, it doesn't take long. I don't keep any kind of liquid my casting table at all, lead explosions are painful and make a mess all over everything. I just drop mine into a baking pan and go from there.
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I agree with Kris...
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Thanks guys... and gal. That's what I thought. I saw a vid of a guy droping them in water and thought I would ask.
Anyways... after I ate I made 5 more quick drops... I got 3 bad and those were on me.
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Excellent!
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Yeah, tomorrow I'll get out early with a big ole mug of coffee, set me up a comfortable spot and hit it hard.
I also want to see if I can switch the pour handle on the pot to the other side. I would rather hold the mold in my right hand and pour with the left. Just seems like it's bass akwards for a right hander.
Thinking about it... I would then need to switch hand for the knocker.
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I dunno you might have to fasshon something up.
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Nope, pour handle is not reversible unless I heat it and bend the last leg on it 180 degrees. Or make one from a wire coat hanger.
I think I'll just deal with it for now.
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Mine is threaded maybe some all thread?
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Yes, the knob is threaded on. I had to thread it on out of the box.
There is a leg of the wire on the other end from the handle. It's pointed downwards and bumps against the back of the pot so the handle cannot be raised too far. If you reverse the handle, the leg would point up and not do it's job.
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Bill, before you know it, you'll have a big ole pile and so many pellets stored up and sorted you can relax and shoot without ammo issues. This is just a small pile of 30's I did one afternoon. I shoot into a rubber mulch bin when doing groups so that I can reclaim the lead and go again. Sometimes though I gotta break free and shoot some reactive targets, branches or old tomatoes/tangerines or something to have some fun.
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Bill, before you know it, you'll have a big ole pile and so many pellets stored up and sorted you can relax and shoot without ammo issues. This is just a small pile of 30's I did one afternoon. I shoot into a rubber mulch bin when doing groups so that I can reclaim the lead and go again. Sometimes though I gotta break free and shoot some reactive targets, branches or old tomatoes/tangerines or something to have some fun.
Keith... I'm pretty sure I'm gonna follow your lead.
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Bill that's going to be hard lead for sure.
I just cast a bunch of pellets and slugs using about half reclaimed CPHP and half pure lead, but didn't have any issues with hardness. I cast 280 (after culls) 22 cal hunters and 72 (after culls) 45 cal BBTs. None of them are harder than tin, but perhaps slightly harder than pure lead. Either way, I can easy scratch off any "hairs" with my thumbnail without any effort. I also didn't use any borax/flux this time and stuck to just parrafin and beeswax. Rather than let things oxidize and remove with flux, I stirred in the wax after the dross started to form, which actually did reduce the amount dross I had to scoop out.
This is my second time casting 45 cal BBTs with my Lee 4 lb electric furnace and bottom pour ladle. I'm really thinking about getting a larger dipper furnace just for this mold. By the time I get a rhythm going there's barely enough lead to fill out two cavities, then I'm stopping to add more lead and the mold gets too cold, even with the hot plate. I think the hot plate could potentially be more effective if I had some kind of wind block for it, or could cast indoors! I'm thinking a 10+ lb bottom pour would make this much more enjoyable. I would probably be faster casting pellets with a larger furnace as well, but I generally can make 80-100 good pellets before stopping to add more lead to the pot.
I'm also thinking my melt wasn't quite hot enough, because my pellets came out much better after turning up the heat a little bit. I ran the furnace around level 7 and did not use the hot plate. Normally I run the furnace around level 5 and use the hot plate to keep my molds hot. The wind also really picked up right before I started casting, which I do outside. This may have been a factor in why I had to turn the melt up so high, since I was able to get barely "frosted" pellets/slugs last year when it was warmer. All that said, I've never had this much success casting pellets! I had just a dozen or two culls out of 280 good ones. These pellets have worked well for me in the past with my C362 and I'm hoping they are good in my Stormrider. I have little experience with this mold so far, but I do wish it were aluminum rather than brass. If I do a lot of casting with this mold my left arm is going to be as strong as my right! Casting the 22 cal hunters also makes me want to get my 362 operational even more.
I do have a Lyman thermometer, but I rarely use it. I find that the absolute melt temperature is really inconsistent with my tiny 4 lb pot and I get better results by paying attention to mold fill, sprue cut, etc. I've been reading about the RCBS EasyMelt and I'm trying to decide how much I want to spend on this hobby...
Bill, I apologize if I derailed this thread too much!
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Nope, all good info..
I do have a question though... how do you test/know hardness?
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Nope, all good info..
I do have a question though... how do you test/know hardness?
The pencil test is the cheapest. Lead hardness testers start $80 and will require a press to scribe.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brinell_scale (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brinell_scale)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IC_8DB21ZVM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IC_8DB21ZVM)
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Ah yes, now that you mentioned it, I do remember someone saying that.
Now that I've confirmed that the Sentry shoots my castings well, I'll swap it out with the avenger tomorrow. Then the Hatsan 1Kv will get a try at them.
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A good explanation of the pencil test for lead:
mashburn posted this 27 June 2019
I thought that this information would be interesting to a lot of you readers. A month or so ago I saw a video on u-tube where a guy was checking lead hardness with a set of drawing pencils. He had checked alloys of a known BHN and by trial and error he came up with a chart that you could use to check the BHN of a unknown alloy. How it works is, take a piece of alloy of unknown BHN and start seeing if the pencil would write on the alloy but not scratch it.When you finally fnd a pencil that will scratch the alloy and you know the hardness of the alloy you have found a pencil hardness that is a little harder than the alloy. I copied his chart down and ordered a full set of drawing pencils. Believe it or not I could not find a full set of drawing pencils from an American manufacturer or distributor on ebay or amazon. I ordered mine from Mylasia and finally got them today. I couldn't get them opened fast enough so that I could try them. I had some alloys of known BHN and a few of unknown BHN. Yes, it did work fine. My known BHN alloys checked exactly to his chart. So I am sure that the unknown alloys checked right. Instead of me posting his chart here, you can pull his video up on u-tube and watch him do his thing and copy down his chart. Much cheaper that a lead hardness tester and very quick.
Pencil Hardness BHN
6B 4-5
5B 7-8
4B 9
3B 10
2B 11-12
B 13
HB 14-15
F 16-18
H 20-22
2H 26-28
There is a lot of supposedly lead hardness testing means on u-tube, however this one is cheap, inexpensive, quick and I guarantee you it WORKS. Please excuse my messy columns in the above info.
Mashburn
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Bill
Go to page #7, Post # 135 for the info on testing lead hardness.........
I think you missed it............LOL
You have had a bunch of info thrown at you in a short time................LOL
Tia,
Don
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Thanks Don, I did vaguely remember it once Kris mentioned it.
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I have been trying not to add too much information to this, until Bill has some more lead poured, as it is probably like trying to drink from a firehose ATM ;)
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well, I must be getting better..
I just dropped another 50 or 60 and only had to toss one back.
I need to make my casting station more comfortable.. my lower back gets to aching after about 30 minutes from standing. I'll get it fine tuned.
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I use a cheap fiberglass swivel, adjustable height office chair, so it is a sit and swivel operation, something one has to develop to fit their style ;)
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That gravel floor under where I have the pot set up now makes it hard to use a chair. I just need to
move to a different location. I have several options.
I'm going to test these in the Avenger today.
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I think the very first thing I stickied was Dons thread on hardness testing.
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Ahh... much better..
It's amazing how quickly they pile up when your comfortable doing it.
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I've learned that if I make contact on the fill nipple with the mold I still get a great pour and very little sprue. It's almost like Wayne's pressure pour.
With smaller sprue I don't have to knock so hard to cut it.
Oh, I never mentioned what I decided to use for my knocker...
There were a couple fiber glass coated wooden dowel electrician reach poles in the barn. They were about 10' long. I cut them to make locking poles for the roll up door.
I use one of the cut offs as the knocker. It has a rubber bumper on the end so i'm not beating the snot out of the mold.
You can see it on the table to the left of the pot... it's screaming yellow... 8)
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Where can I get a .22 19gr domed or diabolo mould?
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Nope, all good info..
I do have a question though... how do you test/know hardness?
I personally am not that worried about it because I'm only using pure lead, recovered cast ammo, and commercial pellets, plus there's a bit of tin from experimenting. If I can scratch it with my fingernails, it's soft enough for airguns. That's my personal rule of thumb. To me testing for hardness is more important for PBs and airguns just require the fingernail scratch test.
At this point I'm trying to decide if my casting hobby is worth spending another $100-160 for a 20+ lb furnace. In which case my 4 lb furnace would be used for testing tin or other lead free metals.
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Where can I get a .22 19gr domed or diabolo mould?
The NOE 22 cal hunter mold. NOE is the only company selling pellet molds.
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The jury has returned the verdict...
All 3 of my .25 guns:
The Hatsan 1000 Striker Vortex
The Xisico 705 HC Deluxe
The AV Avenger
All shoot my cast pellets as good or better than any other pellet I've shot with them.
That's with the long pin (lightest weight). I have yet to cast any of the other pins yet.
I want to build stock in each before I switch to the next.
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Well, I think our normal mail lady is on vacation or no longer there. We've had an older lady the past few days and she gets later and later each day. Today is the latest yet.
The young girl would be here right around 9am. This one is not even here yet.
Seems to always happen when I'm waiting for a delivery.
It's not so much that I am impatient.. the delivery is lead ingots and I have nearly 20# on hand.
The problem is, I've had the gate open all morning and the dogs can't go out. I'm not worried about them running off, they know who feeds them.. I just don't want anyone getting dog bit or shooting my dogs.
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I've learned that if I make contact on the fill nipple with the mold I still get a great pour and very little sprue. It's almost like Wayne's pressure pour.
With smaller sprue I don't have to knock so hard to cut it.
Oh, I never mentioned what I decided to use for my knocker...
There were a couple fiber glass coated wooden dowel electrician reach poles in the barn. They were about 10' long. I cut them to make locking poles for the roll up door.
I use one of the cut offs as the knocker. It has a rubber bumper on the end so i'm not beating the snot out of the mold.
You can see it on the table to the left of the pot... it's screaming yellow... 8)
I do that with the .22 mold since it's so hard to fill out to the end of the skirts.
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Nope, all good info..
I do have a question though... how do you test/know hardness?
I test mine with a pair of needle nose pliers. Depending on how hard the skirts and heads are to smash lets me know the hardness. Plus, if a significant piece can still be found below my reactive target. When I first started casting, I could find full flattened pellets. Today I can only find very small slivers as I kept adding more pure lead to the reclaimed lead.
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OK
I got onto casting because .457 was so expensive.
Now Ya'll got me wanting a mold on .22
Wayne traded me a tin of his cast NOE 217-24-RF 23g "Magnum Hunters" and they shoot awesome!
I need to start researching "pins"
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Just listed pistol in the classifieds to fund a 22 mold
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My findings are do not mess with any other pins for the pellets, accuracy goes away, slugs are a different story.
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OK
I got onto casting because .457 was so expensive.
Now Ya'll got me wanting a mold on .22
Wayne traded me a tin of his cast NOE 217-24-RF 23g "Magnum Hunters" and they shoot awesome!
I need to start researching "pins"
The NOE pellet molds come with pins that look and function like the hollow point pins for slug/bullet molds. This is what creates the hollow skirt. There are multiple lengths for different skirt cavities. I want to say each successively shorter pin increases pellet weight by 1-2 grains each. So the 22 cal Hunter mold can drop a 19.3 grain pellet, 20.3-ish, or a 22-ish grain pellet. There used to be pins for flat base pellets, but these didn't yield accurate pellets and I do not think they are included with molds anymore.
I personally don't think that casting 22 cal pellets is very economical if your gun can shoot CPHP or similarly priced pellet accurately. However, if you normally shoot heavier or more expensive pellet the molds become more attractive. I also think the meplat on the NOE pellets is also favorable for hunting and punching neat holes in paper.
James (backroads) sent me some hand cast non-lead slugs to test in my Eagle Claw, but I haven't gotten around to it yet. So far I haven't been able to get cast anything to work for me in that gun, but I haven't given up, yet. I was close to giving up on cast 22 cal pellets, but now that I've given my mold a chance to break in I like it. Currently I haven't even shot my big bore enough to make the initial investment pay off. If I had a good mold for my Eagle Claw I think the ROI would come a lot sooner since I can shoot it more easily at home. I don't have a good backstop that can handle the 45! Once it gets warmer I think I'll be going to the range more often where I can blast steel targets to my heart's content, compared to shooting at home where I try to trap as much lead as possible. Getting into more guns (AG or PB) that can use cast ammo will also improve the ROI.
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Just listed pistol in the classifieds to fund a 22 mold
For the cause I immediately went to the gate and checked the ad. It looks like a nice pistol and I hope you sell it.
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Another detail about the pins...
The shorter the pin the farther the probe pushes the pellet past the TP.
As for the economics of casting .22 in my case... I have access to free lead.... free is good.
Casting is also just another aspect of this hobby that I enjoy kinda like tinkering, and that alone has value.
As for hard and soft lead... if my gun shot dog poop accurately I would probably consider it.
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I doubt if I would consider it out of a blowgun though..... :o :-[
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Another detail about the pins...
The shorter the pin the farther the probe pushes the pellet past the TP.
As for the economics of casting .22 in my case... I have access to free lead.... free is good.
Casting is also just another aspect of this hobby that I enjoy kinda like tinkering, and that alone has value.
As for hard and soft lead... if my gun shot dog poop accurately I would probably consider it.
Pm or text me about 22...
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Comin' at ya..
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Yo, if you're gonna put me on hold, at least play some music... ;D
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Sorry mang I was stuffing my face hole.
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LOL... yeah. my log book is in the Red Shed.. I'll let you know about that slug in the morning.
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I don't think I want to fool with HP.. I really have no use for them Mplat and dome/diabolo is good.
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OK
I got onto casting because .457 was so expensive.
Now Ya'll got me wanting a mold on .22
Wayne traded me a tin of his cast NOE 217-24-RF 23g "Magnum Hunters" and they shoot awesome!
I need to start researching "pins"
Scott the magnum hunters always were my favorite pellets for long distance shooting, they're really nice in 25 cal too, I head shot a raccoon with one@40yds at the beginning of
the season with my semi auto Carbine. I also got a crow with one at 70 yards about 4 years ago with my Airmax Dominator, they're really awesome pellets in my opinion 8)
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I don't think I want to fool with HP.. I really have no use for them Mplat and dome/diabolo is good.
HP is just for slugs, since they cast with the nose down. You can't make HP pellets in a mold since the base as to be hollow. HP pellets are made in a multi-step swaging process.
When I talk about economics of casting pellets, I'm comparing that to how many pellets I can cast in an hour vs buying pellets with money I earn or doing something else with that time. The return on investment of time doesn't pencil out casting pellets when I can buy them very inexpensively and use that time I was going to spend casting doing something more profitable, like milling lumber, splitting wood, working for money, etc. I do also enjoy casting, so there's some enjoyment to factor into the "profit". I'm also getting better at casting, so the ROI gets better every casting session. I could barely cast 100 pellet in an hour when I first started a year ago, but now I'm able to crank out over 300. There is of course the idea that I'm fairly self sustainable in 22 cal and 45 cal, and immune to ammo shortages, real or perceived. A pellet mold costs around $130-150, and that could buy you about 2,500-3,000 pellets assuming a cost of $0.05/pellet, for some perspective. Then you have to figure out what your time is worth.
Assuming you could make at least $15/hr, you have to make at least 300 .22 ca hunter pellets an hour to make it even out, and that's assuming lead is free and the mold and casting gear have already hit their own ROI. This is the worst case scenario as ammo costs go up significantly as you go up in caliber.
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One word comes to mind... retired.
As I said way back there someplace... I will continue to purchase .177 and .20. And if I find .22 is too big of a hassle as some have suggested... I will purchase those as well. But I have all the time in the World and I enjoy casting... I don't need to be fast.. just consistent. Most anything you do in life that is enjoyable has a level of cost. I like shooting airguns so I need pellets. I recently found out I like casting and I am fortunate to have plenty of time to do both. I have a source for free lead... all I want. Some prefer only to use 100% pure. That's all good. If what I use makes good pellets, hits where I aim and don't cost me anything, why not?
I can't put a price per hour on what I enjoy doing.... it's priceless.
As it is right now... I sit and cast for 20 minutes or so, then do something else.
Thanks for explaining that hollow points are swagged... I had forgotten all about swagging.
I was goiiung crazy trying to figure out how to get a skirt, of sorts, at both ends.... :o
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Bill I don't think the .22's are any more of a hassle than the .25's, the wad cutters can be a little tricky in .22 because of such a small sprue plate hole.
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Wayne... Insanity (Matt) is sending me a few .22 molds on loan so I can sample before I decide what to buy.
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Wayne... Insanity (Matt) is sending me a few .22 molds on loan so I can sample before I decide what to buy.
That's a nice way to do it! Before 'rona, cast boolits had a group of us lending/borrowing molds to see if they worked in our guns.
It worked fine with a few hiccups here and there.
I bet we could do the same here?
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In the meantime, I'm having very good results with the .25 and the reclaimed pellet lead. I'm using the long pins and weights are pretty much staying before 26.85 and 27.10. The few that are above and below that are getting tossed back. All said and done, I'm probably having 90% + success.
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Our regular mail girl is back from vacation... she just dropped off the 20# of Lyman ingots.
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In the meantime, I'm having very good results with the .25 and the reclaimed pellet lead. I'm using the long pins and weights are pretty much staying before 26.85 and 27.10. The few that are above and below that are getting tossed back. All said and done, I'm probably having 90% + success.
That's a tight spread being well under a 0.5gr. JSBs are typically around a 2gr spread per tin on a good day. You'll have some higher spreads on start up before the mold gets hot enough which I consider to be normal. Those get recycled back into the pot when I am casting. I typically start checking weights after about the fifth mold dump. I use a hot plate and have the NOE holes drilled in each mold I order, so I can use the NOE thermometer to check mold temps. The hot plate is typically good to get the molds up to around 350° so that's about where I start using the mold. I build the melt up on top of the sprue plate to bring the mold temp up more. I use a torch to heat the pins up more initially as well. I don't want to have to beat the HPs out. If they don't just fall out when opened or require just a small tap the mold is too cold still. pellets are much easier, but you still have to watch the skirts to make sure the ends are fully filled out. If not, the mold is still too cold.
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Thanks Keith..
I let the mold sit on top of the pot while it's melting the lead left in it to start a new day's casting. I also leave the mold on top of the pot during breaks.
Virtually every thing I've pour weighs between 26.50 and 27.35. I split those in 3 groups according to weight and shot 5 of each from my Avenger regged at 2000ish. At my normal 35yds. everything stayed in a 1/2" group. I am golden with that.
I will perform the same tests when I get into the reclaimed tire weight lead and again with the Lyman ingot lead.
That said.. I am not so naive to believe any ingot that says Lyman on it is quality lead considering anyone can buy Lyman ingot molds. Pellets and bullets are not the only thing cast of lead... I hear the fishing industry is pretty big :o and they measure sinkers in ounces, not gr. ;) Pretty sure Fred the fisherman don't really care if his sinkers are 100% pure lead or not.
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Got lead?
I couldn't believe how much bubble wrap this guys used. I got bubble wrap for days... ;D
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Be careful, lead acquisition it is just as bad as air airgun acquisition. I myself probably have close to 70 lbs of the stuff here at the house. Enough for airguns, sinkers, and cast nets.
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I hear ya, by the looks of things, I won't need to be buying any soon. I've still got a boatload of trash pellets around here that can be melted down.
Before I get back into shooting alot, I need to get my trap done so I can reclaim a bunch of this.
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Wayne... Insanity (Matt) is sending me a few .22 molds on loan so I can sample before I decide what to buy.
That's a nice way to do it! Before 'rona, cast boolits had a group of us lending/borrowing molds to see if they worked in our guns.
It worked fine with a few hiccups here and there.
I bet we could do the same here?
That would be amazing. This could really help me avoid molds that won't work in my gun without spending $100+ before hand. That being said I could also lend out molds that don't work for me.
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In the meantime, I'm having very good results with the .25 and the reclaimed pellet lead. I'm using the long pins and weights are pretty much staying before 26.85 and 27.10. The few that are above and below that are getting tossed back. All said and done, I'm probably having 90% + success.
There is some room for adjustments on the pins to get all the cavities closer together in weight. My standard deviation is 0.5 grains after getting my pins set up.
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about the lead acquisition part.
I ended up with a 70lb roll of roof flashing from a friend needing to downsize. It should last me for a bit.
I have no idea if it's 'pure lead' or not, but it casts my .25 pellets quite well, and they seem soft enough. I use it for casting several types of projectiles...PB and air.
If you're looking for other sources in the future, I believe roof flashing...scraps or complete rolls...might not be a bad thing to utilize.
just yet another idea for (if) when you run out.
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Thanks Will, I'll have to befriend a roofer.... ;D
Better yet, a sample pack of pellets from one of our forum casters. That is how Matt and I started this thing... He sent me 8 samples of 25 or so pellets each... 6 in .25 and 2 in .22. I got lucky with the .25 because another member had an extra NIB mold of the pellet that all 3 of my .25 cal guns shot very well... I'm talking 1/2" groups at 35yds. I have several .22 guns but I know 4 or 5 of them shoot the 19gr Crosman dome really well. One of the molds coming on loan is the exact one I have in my box at NOE except it's brass.
My Urban also likes a particular slug... when I say likes, I mean dead nut stacker. I've shot it out to 45yds with the same accuracy. I call 'pester'. ;) That is one of the other molds coming.
The point is.. one lost or stolen mold is enough to wreak havoc in the forum. Case in point... there is supposed to be a Sheridan valve tool floating around the forum... has anyone seen it?
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Bill,
FWIW, I bought a cheap one of this type for a lead storage mold,
https://www.ebay.com/itm/195470421740? (https://www.ebay.com/itm/195470421740?)
1" dia x 7" long, fits very nice into my smelter and slides down as it heats up,
very easy to store in a plastic milk crate/ammo box etc.
YMMV,
Tia,
Don
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Don, I've seen those at second hand stores. We have a ton of those type stores around here.. I'll keep my eyes open. These muffins are working pretty good 2 at a time they fit one on each side of the pour tube and slide in to melt. I ease them in with a pair of channel locks so they don't splash. I've also seen ear of corn shaped corn bread molds.
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Here ya go....
https://www.hardwareworld.com/pgjxg1a/Cast-Iron-Cornbread-Pan-12-L-x-5-W (https://www.hardwareworld.com/pgjxg1a/Cast-Iron-Cornbread-Pan-12-L-x-5-W)
Do ya think it would be too corny? :o ::)
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Perfect!! Cast iron molds !!!
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Bill
Have you looked a the 22 cal wad cutter molds, they shoot very good out of all my 22 cal pistols and rifles, just don't drive them too fast............ ;)
https://noebulletmolds.com/site/shop/bullet-moulds/224/217-17-wc-ce5/217-17-wc-ce5-rg4-cavity-hb-target/
https://noebulletmolds.com/site/shop/bullet-moulds/224/217-20-rf-ce6-hunter-pellet/217-20-rf-ce6-4-cavity-hb-hunter/
Tia,
Don
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Don... I have some .25 wads from Wayne and some from Matt... My 3 .25 guns don't shoot them well... probably too fast. I don't have any for the .22.
My ultimate goal would be to cast all my .22 and .25 ammo. But I don't want to cast 6 or 8 types. I do believe I have found my .25 pellet of choice.
Here is where some of you will question my sanity.. and maybe even my honesty.. :o
I would like to have no more than 3 molds in .22. Once I find the ones that cover the most of my .22 guns. The remaining guns that want to be babied with special pellets (providing they don't have a cool factor for hanging on the walls of the bar/mancave) will go on the chopping block.
All the airguns I ever bought or traded were the result of "because I can". That way of thinking has changed since retirement. No longer are the paychecks fat and continuous.
We have airguns that do every thing it takes to put smiles on our faces. We can't see buying anymore.. the smiles ain't gonna get any bigger. We left the Jones behind or they passed away, no sense in trying to keep up with them anymore.
Don't believe me? Hide and watch... ;)
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Allow me to jump in , please. Bill, get the .22 wadcutter mould, you can always sell it if you don't like it. I waited more than a year before they were available.
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Allow me to jump in , please. Bill, get the .22 wadcutter mould, you can always sell it if you don't like it. I waited more than a year before they were available.
I'll look around and see if I can find someone willing to send me some samples cast with the exact mold available.
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Allow me to jump in , please. Bill, get the .22 wadcutter mould, you can always sell it if you don't like it. I waited more than a year before they were available.
I'll look around and see if I can find someone willing to send me some samples cast with the exact mold available.
LOL
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I want the 22 WC mold, but can't justify it right now.
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about the lead acquisition part.
I ended up with a 70lb roll of roof flashing from a friend needing to downsize. It should last me for a bit.
I have no idea if it's 'pure lead' or not, but it casts my .25 pellets quite well, and they seem soft enough. I use it for casting several types of projectiles...PB and air.
If you're looking for other sources in the future, I believe roof flashing...scraps or complete rolls...might not be a bad thing to utilize.
just yet another idea for (if) when you run out.
Lead flashing has to be 99% pure or it will crack when being shaped, its great lead but expensive to buy.
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I want the 22 WC mold, but can't justify it right now.
DJ, I hope i am wrong, but it will be a long wait before it will be available again.
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OK
I got onto casting because .457 was so expensive.
Now Ya'll got me wanting a mold on .22
Wayne traded me a tin of his cast NOE 217-24-RF 23g "Magnum Hunters" and they shoot awesome!
I need to start researching "pins"
Scott the magnum hunters always were my favorite pellets for long distance shooting, they're really nice in 25 cal too, I head shot a raccoon with one@40yds at the beginning of
the season with my semi auto Carbine. I also got a crow with one at 70 yards about 4 years ago with my Airmax Dominator, they're really awesome pellets in my opinion 8)
They shoot very well out of my Maverick too. I will be tuning this barrel/liner for them as they carry a lot of energy and with that meplat... WOW!
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OK
I got onto casting because .457 was so expensive.
Now Ya'll got me wanting a mold on .22
Wayne traded me a tin of his cast NOE 217-24-RF 23g "Magnum Hunters" and they shoot awesome!
I need to start researching "pins"
Scott the magnum hunters always were my favorite pellets for long distance shooting, they're really nice in 25 cal too, I head shot a raccoon with one@40yds at the beginning of
the season with my semi auto Carbine. I also got a crow with one at 70 yards about 4 years ago with my Airmax Dominator, they're really awesome pellets in my opinion 8)
They shoot very well out of my Maverick too. I will be tuning this barrel/liner for them as they carry a lot of energy and with that meplat... WOW!
I'm glad it's working for you!
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I want the 22 WC mold, but can't justify it right now.
DJ, I hope i am wrong, but it will be a long wait before it will be available again.
I'm surprised NOE hasn't just pivoted to the AG market where they have a bit of a monopoly. Most PB molds are always in stock, but if you miss out on a pellet mold it could be a year.
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OK
I got onto casting because .457 was so expensive.
Now Ya'll got me wanting a mold on .22
Wayne traded me a tin of his cast NOE 217-24-RF 23g "Magnum Hunters" and they shoot awesome!
I need to start researching "pins"
Scott the magnum hunters always were my favorite pellets for long distance shooting, they're really nice in 25 cal too, I head shot a raccoon with one@40yds at the beginning of
the season with my semi auto Carbine. I also got a crow with one at 70 yards about 4 years ago with my Airmax Dominator, they're really awesome pellets in my opinion 8)
They shoot very well out of my Maverick too. I will be tuning this barrel/liner for them as they carry a lot of energy and with that meplat... WOW!
These in .30 cal (46gr) literally explode old tangerines at 70 yards when using my Impact. A loud smack, too.
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You know a slug that looks like this would not even have to be accurate, the game would run for the cob of corn ;D 8) ??? :-\
(https://www.hardwareworld.com/files/pi/l1/A/GJXG.jpg)
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You know a slug that looks like this would not even have to be accurate, the game would run for the cob of corn ;D 8) ??? :-\
(https://www.hardwareworld.com/files/pi/l1/A/GJXG.jpg)
Exactly... the perfect bait.. 8)
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Ok, it's official...
I am a seasoned caster, or is that a pelleteer?
Anyways... I got 2 burned fingers to proove it.
It ain't 'go to the hospital' burns... just 'stick it in some cold water' burns.
Just enough to make a guy get in the truck and run to the co-op for some leather gloves. ;)
Besides... Betty Lou wanted a bag of potting soil and I needed a case of cold beer.
Yeah so, just because that hunk of sprue is laying on the table don't mean it's cool enough to pick up..
:o :-[
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Ok, it's official...
I am a seasoned caster, or is that a pelleteer?
Anyways... I got 2 burned fingers to proove it.
It ain't 'go to the hospital' burns... just 'stick it in some cold water' burns.
Just enough to make a guy get in the truck and run to the co-op for some leather gloves. ;)
Besides... Betty Lou wanted a bag of potting soil and I needed a case of cold beer.
Yeah so, just because that hunk of sprue is laying on the table don't mean it's cool enough to pick up..
:o :-[
If you're sitting down while casting, a thick leather apron like those used when welding is an important part of your attire. Having a sprue drop in you lap is an eye opening experience.
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Ok, it's official...
I am a seasoned caster, or is that a pelleteer?
Anyways... I got 2 burned fingers to proove it.
It ain't 'go to the hospital' burns... just 'stick it in some cold water' burns.
Just enough to make a guy get in the truck and run to the co-op for some leather gloves. ;)
Besides... Betty Lou wanted a bag of potting soil and I needed a case of cold beer.
Yeah so, just because that hunk of sprue is laying on the table don't mean it's cool enough to pick up..
:o :-[
And it burns burns burns......🤕 See, if y'all ll had a sign we could've warned ya. That's going to be 🔥 😁
Oh, and here's your sign!
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If you're sitting down while casting, a thick leather apron like those used when welding is an important part of your attire. Having a sprue drop in you lap is an eye opening experience.
Not only in your lap but on your feet, please wear shoes.
Long welders gloves are a plus. The pig skin ones have more dexterity than the leather ones. Also with them being long cuffed you have less splatter on your wrists. Trust me, you will get an oh sh!t spill pouring into mold. I have a pair of tillmans that are comfortable and my hands don't get sweaty in them.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=tillman+pig+skin+tig+glove&_sacat=0 (https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=tillman+pig+skin+tig+glove&_sacat=0)
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No gloves for me!
You only pick up hot lead a couple times before the gerbils in that attic get the message and you use a spoon instead. ;)
I use a welding apron, $14 will keep you from roasting the chestnuts...
https://www.amazon.com/Leather-Welding-Cowhide-workmans-Pockets/dp/B07V6ZV2VX/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?crid=2O38ZT5NSCVDY&keywords=leather+apron&qid=1680810105&sprefix=leather+apron%2Caps%2C220&sr=8-14 (https://www.amazon.com/Leather-Welding-Cowhide-workmans-Pockets/dp/B07V6ZV2VX/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?crid=2O38ZT5NSCVDY&keywords=leather+apron&qid=1680810105&sprefix=leather+apron%2Caps%2C220&sr=8-14)
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My learning curve is a hairpin....
Got the gloves... now looking for my leather apron from my tool and die days.
Yep, it's all fun and games until the clown bleeds out.
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Yep, it's all fun and games until the clown bleeds out.
Then its hilarious.
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Yep, it's all fun and games until the clown bleeds out.
Then its hilarious.
Unless you're the clown.. :o
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Ah the burn lesson. One thing to also be aware of is sweat dripping into the pot, and dipping into the pot with a tool that is at ambient temp. If you stir these in below the top layer you will be inviting the tensile fairy. My bother stirred in a drop of sweat and now has lead up on the ceiling. Fortunately, he was able to jump away fairly quick to avoid more serious burns than the ones he got. He was casting lead sinkers for saltwater. I don't recommend setting down to cast and recommend having a quick escape path. We are not perfect is my reasoning. Lay your stirring tool on top of the lead for a bit before going below the surface. Yes, I have been schooled on this myself...The old fashion way.
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I also learned the beeswax flux lesson....
Let it melt down the side of the pot.
Don't dunk a pocket knife full of it into the molten lead.
FLAME ON !!!
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That molten metal can be devastating, one of the worst burns I got from molten metal was I was brazing a fender on an old truck for a friend of mine and a big glob fell right on my
watch band welding it right to my arm, believe it or not the scar from that burn completely disappeared. Needless to say I was in agony getting that watch off.
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Yep, it's all fun and games until the clown bleeds out.
Then its hilarious.
Unless you're the clown.. :o
I'm good I'm a stooge
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The front pads on my Index and middle finger on both hands are "smooth with no finger prints" because of molten metal.
My problem is, I been dealing with red hot parts so long, I now longer feel it soon enough. ::)
I see the smoke, smell the burning meat... and then... Owe.... by then it is too late.
I wear Welding gloves casting but am investing in "TIG" gloves for the dexterity.
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The front pads on my Index and middle finger on both hands are "smooth with no finger prints" because of molten metal.
My problem is, I been dealing with red hot parts so long, I now longer feel it soon enough. ::)
I see the smoke, smell the burning meat... and then... Owe.... by then it is too late.
I wear Welding gloves casting but am investing in "TIG" gloves for the dexterity.
I have a pair of old fashion welding leather gloves I use when I play with molten glass but they are rather unweildy things. Which gloves are you buying?
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I wear Welding gloves casting but am investing in "TIG" gloves for the dexterity.
I have a pair of old fashion welding leather gloves I use when I play with molten glass but they are rather unweildy things. Which gloves are you buying?
TIG welding is minute detail and you need tight fitting, soft leather for dexterity...
I get them from our welding supplier.
Like these...
https://www.grainger.com/product/5PE84?gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2293:99F1R6:20501231&gclid=Cj0KCQjw27mhBhC9ARIsAIFsETHznUa87ygm1C0NX4aHII9i0sNatcWTSXHFbSaVMmj3xZfuim7Ko0gaAufEEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds (https://www.grainger.com/product/5PE84?gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2293:99F1R6:20501231&gclid=Cj0KCQjw27mhBhC9ARIsAIFsETHznUa87ygm1C0NX4aHII9i0sNatcWTSXHFbSaVMmj3xZfuim7Ko0gaAufEEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds)
(https://static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/2MCZ3_AS01?$adapimg$&hei=536&wid=536)
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Yep, it's all fun and games until the clown bleeds out.
Then its hilarious.
Unless you're the clown.. :o
I'm good I'm a stooge
Must be Curly! He was the only one to be bald.😁
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I also learned the beeswax flux lesson....
Let it melt down the side of the pot.
Don't dunk a pocket knife full of it into the molten lead.
FLAME ON !!!
The point of the bees wax is to get hydrocarbons inserted into the body of the melt.
Beeswax pellets are your friend here, adding just a couple pellets to a stainless steel iced tea spoon (long handle, small spoon) with an insulator, into the melt will get enough of the hydrocarbons into the lead to both combine melted elements and draw off unwanted agents, to get a good "flux".
Let's be perfectly clear about Borax: It's job is as a soldering flux, NOT as a melt pot flux, there is no such thing. If you want to use Borax in your pot, feel free! It will release slag from your melt but flux is for JOINING not purifying. Rosin is a flux, it helps join parts.
Beeswax is a "purifier", "flux", any organic will achieve this. YES! POOP too! As well as fingernails, paper, wood, blood, skin, grass, you get the picture? It allows separation and lift to unwanted elements, this includes zinc, tin, antimony, sand (read silicon, not silicone) and inorganic compounds. Beeswax has a high concentration and greater 'loft' then most others.
Use less, not more.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S75C6VW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S75C6VW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
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Transparency Alert! ::)
I sold 22,000 of these over four years for lead pot stirrers using 1/2" oak dowels cut down to 2" and drilled out to match these spoon handle diameters several years back. I am sure these spoons are different but I owned a restaurant at the time and bulk flatware was super cheap at the time. The wood insulates the steel from the heat and allows for a goor stirring of the pot.
https://www.amazon.com/AOOSY-Stainless-Teaspoon-Cocktail-Milkshake/dp/B018VFUKXM/ref=asc_df_B018VFUKXM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=196245085169&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3711861656048929553&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9020111&hvtargid=pla-338144639194&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/AOOSY-Stainless-Teaspoon-Cocktail-Milkshake/dp/B018VFUKXM/ref=asc_df_B018VFUKXM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=196245085169&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3711861656048929553&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9020111&hvtargid=pla-338144639194&th=1)
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Transparency Alert! ::)
I sold 22,000 of these over four years for lead pot stirrers using 1/2" oak dowels cut down to 2" and drilled out to match these spoon handle diameters several years back. I am sure these spoons are different but I owned a restaurant at the time and bulk flatware was super cheap at the time. The wood insulates the steel from the heat and allows for a goor stirring of the pot.
https://www.amazon.com/AOOSY-Stainless-Teaspoon-Cocktail-Milkshake/dp/B018VFUKXM/ref=asc_df_B018VFUKXM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=196245085169&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3711861656048929553&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9020111&hvtargid=pla-338144639194&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/AOOSY-Stainless-Teaspoon-Cocktail-Milkshake/dp/B018VFUKXM/ref=asc_df_B018VFUKXM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=196245085169&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3711861656048929553&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9020111&hvtargid=pla-338144639194&th=1)
I've been using a Lee "precision" ladle, but stainless steel sounds way better.
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Transparency Alert! ::)
I sold 22,000 of these over four years for lead pot stirrers using 1/2" oak dowels cut down to 2" and drilled out to match these spoon handle diameters several years back. I am sure these spoons are different but I owned a restaurant at the time and bulk flatware was super cheap at the time. The wood insulates the steel from the heat and allows for a goor stirring of the pot.
https://www.amazon.com/AOOSY-Stainless-Teaspoon-Cocktail-Milkshake/dp/B018VFUKXM/ref=asc_df_B018VFUKXM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=196245085169&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3711861656048929553&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9020111&hvtargid=pla-338144639194&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/AOOSY-Stainless-Teaspoon-Cocktail-Milkshake/dp/B018VFUKXM/ref=asc_df_B018VFUKXM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=196245085169&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3711861656048929553&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9020111&hvtargid=pla-338144639194&th=1)
I've been using a Lee "precision" ladle, but stainless steel sounds way better.
Teaspoon, wood, stir, what's not to like?
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I like to use this stuff after using some wax. I use it to coat the top of the melt to keep oxidation down to a minimum. It covers the top of the melt to keep oxygen out. It's a good flux as well. It is very clean and easy to use, and just a pinch is all that is needed in these small Lee pots. It won't clog a gravity spout either like sawdust will.
(https://i.ibb.co/4FgPWHM/Frankford-Arsenal-Cleancast-Lead-Flux.jpg)
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Crankin' em out on this rainy Saturday morning...
About every hundred or so I'll flip the chair around to the other table where I have the scale set up.
I reject the obvious bad ones and the rest are sorted in 2 groups...
26.80 - 27.30 go in one pile then 27.30 - 27.60ish goes in another. Anything below 26.80 and above 27.65 goes back in the pot.
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Crankin' em out on this rainy Saturday morning...
About every hundred or so I'll flip the chair around to the other table where I have the scale set up.
I reject the obvious bad ones and the rest are sorted in 2 groups...
26.80 - 27.30 go in one pile then 27.30 - 27.60ish goes in another. Anything below 26.80 and above 27.65 goes back in the pot.
Perfect!
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After the culling and shooting several mags I probably have 1500 - 2000 pellets stock piled.
I'm not turning this into a full time job, I want to enjoy it at my own pace. I have all the time in the World.
I'll do 10 - 20 drops from the 4 cavity mold, weigh and sort those with the mold sitting on top of the pot to stay hot. Visit with ya'll on the GTA. Then go in the house and see what Betty Lou and the dogs are up to.
Then back out to the Red Shed and shoot some raindrops. Then pour 10 - 20 more drops.
First of the week I have some .22 molds coming so we'll see if I have just as much success with those.
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USPS dropped off four .22 cal molds this morning.
Time to start poring and testing to see which to invest in.
I also received a ladle courtesy of BrewBear.... ty sir, it will get used.
I'll dabble in Wayne's pressure pour method. ;)
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I should have gotten one of the 22 WC molds when they were available. At the time I wasn't enjoying my hunter mold and wasn't keen on another pellet mold.
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I should have gotten one of the 22 WC molds when they were available. At the time I wasn't enjoying my hunter mold and wasn't keen on another pellet mold.
There are 29 total in stock right now.
https://noebulletmolds.com/site/product-category/bullet-moulds/224/217-17-wc-ce5/
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Glad to see you received it, you are very welcome. Happy casting ;D
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Glad to see you received it, you are very welcome. Happy casting ;D
Yeah, with that crazy tracking, I was sure it was lost. It was due to arrive last Friday. Tracking kept telling me it was traveling through the system but wouldn't say where it was. I would get updates 3 times a day saying the same thing.
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Welp... now that my belly is full it's time to get this party started. ;D
I'm gonna begin with a little brass 2 cav 217-20-RF. This is the one I have in my cart at NOE... actually, I have the 4 cav aluminum in the cart.
After that will be the 218-25-RF-D5 4 cav.
Then the 217-30-FN BT 4 cav
And finally the 217-17-WC 4 cav
The plan is to make enough of each to sample in all my .22 guns and see where my money is most effectively placed.
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Bill I just turned my caster on, I'm going to cast some wad cutters in a little while.
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Cant wait to see how you do Bill! Well I guess Im gonna have to wait... Well poo.
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Wayne.... .22 or .25?
and which pins?
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I should have gotten one of the 22 WC molds when they were available. At the time I wasn't enjoying my hunter mold and wasn't keen on another pellet mold.
There are 29 total in stock right now.
https://noebulletmolds.com/site/product-category/bullet-moulds/224/217-17-wc-ce5/
Thanks, the last time I checked they were all out!
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I'm using the .22 Fortitude for the initial testing. It's a good middle of the road gun of the ones I have.
The Maximus, Urban and FD-PCP being among some of the others.
The Urban, for instance, like a specific slug which happens to be one of the molds I have on hand. The other guns are not good slug shooters so I would not invest $100+ in a mold for one gun... however, the Urban also shoots pellets well that many other guns like... that would be the mold I put the money into.
I am a plinker, paper puncher and pester.... a slug is nice but not something I need for my intended use.
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That WC mold happens to be one of the ones I received for testing. I've not been successful with wadcutters that I've tried in the past However, this mold gives me 3 different weight options.
But again, I wouldn't invest in a mold that only one or 2 of my guns shoots well. I can't afford to have 30 different molds to make all my guns happy.
The ultimate goal is a total of 2 molds in .22 and 2 in .25.
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This ordeal kinda reminds me of when we were considering cutting the cable cord... We had to research all of our options before making the final call. All said and done, we were able to get everything we typically watch and save about $70 a month.
One of the stickies was NASCAR... half of the season is FOX and half is NBC with a few USA in the middle. Many of the streaming services offered one or the other. That narrowed it down to a couple. From there the final decision was based on price.
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That WC mold happens to be one of the ones I received for testing. I've not been successful with wadcutters that I've tried in the past However, this mold gives me 3 different weight options.
But again, I wouldn't invest in a mold that only one or 2 of my guns shoots well. I can't afford to have 30 different molds to make all my guns happy.
The ultimate goal is a total of 2 molds in .22 and 2 in .25.
You don't have to worry about having a ton of different mold options, there are three options in 22, three options in 25, two options in 30, and one option in 35, each with different length pins. Only 22 and 25 cal get wadcutters.
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Hmmmm.... I see wadcutters, meplats in 20gr and 25/24gr? slugs, Boat tails... I'm looking at 4 options in .22 right in front of me and there are other weight options.
Anyways....
One of the options I have here is a 2 cavity brass meplat 20gr. With the long pin it drops a consistent 20.20 give or take .10. Hands down that will be the first .22 mold I will buy... but only in aluminum 4 cavity. With discounts and shipping it's just over $100.
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I've learned a ton since the beginning of this adventure through folks here and videos.
One of the biggest improvements was using sawdust. With beeswax I would get dross everytime I shut the pot down and refired it the next day. Not the case with sawdust. I add it when I add lead... that's it. I also had a couple flare ups with the beeswax... none with sawdust.
The other thing that may have helped was the temp setting... originally I left the pot at around 7... too hot.
For the past couple days I've got it down to 4 - 4 1/5.... so much better.
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Bill I cast the .22 wadcutters with the longest pin averaging 16.5g, I use a lot of them in my pistols, I really like them in my Crosman 362 a lot, very accurate for a wad cutter.
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Bill I cast the .22 wadcutters with the longest pin averaging 16.5g, I use a lot of them in my pistols, I really like them in my Crosman 362 a lot, very accurate for a wad cutter.
Long pin.... ok, that is where I'll start when I get to the wadcutters.
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Hmmmm.... I see wadcutters, meplats in 20gr and 25/24gr? slugs, Boat tails... I'm looking at 4 options in .22 right in front of me and there are other weight options.
Anyways....
One of the options I have here is a 2 cavity brass meplat 20gr. With the long pin it drops a consistent 20.20 give or take .10. Hands down that will be the first .22 mold I will buy... but only in aluminum 4 cavity. With discounts and shipping it's just over $100.
I was talking about pellets, not including slugs. There are also really only a few slug molds in each caliber designed for airguns.
It looks like there's a ton of options, but in reality there's only a few.
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In all honesty... I don't think the wadcutters are going to make the cut for me... at the end of this culling journey the only .22 pistols I will be keeping will be Willie G. and Twisted Sister. They like the domes so I'm hoping they like these 20gr.
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The pot is heating up and I'm getting ready to cast some .22.
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The pot is heating up and I'm getting ready to cast some .22.
Heat and pressure are your friends. 8)
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Yep, providing it's the right amount of both.
My pellets drop best when I run the pot at about 4.5 on the dial and hold the mold tight against the fill nipple to pour.
As for pressure.. best to keep my pot abouot halfways full. The weight of that much lead works best.
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Yep, providing it's the right amount of both.
My pellets drop best when I run the pot at about 4.5 on the dial and hold the mold tight against the fill nipple to pour.
As for pressure.. best to keep my pot abouot halfways full. The weight of that much lead works best.
You got it right! As long as the mould is warm and doesn't stick to the pour nipple. The problem i had with the 10# melter was running out of lead too fast so I bought the #20 one.
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Yep, providing it's the right amount of both.
My pellets drop best when I run the pot at about 4.5 on the dial and hold the mold tight against the fill nipple to pour.
As for pressure.. best to keep my pot abouot halfways full. The weight of that much lead works best.
You got it right! As long as the mould is warm and doesn't stick to the pour nipple. The problem i had with the 10# melter was running out of lead too fast so I bought the #20 one.
I am using a 4# pot and I am slowed down significantly by having to add metal back to the melt constantly. I'm trying to decide if a 20# pot is worth the investment. The RCBS easy melt is not much more than a Lee 20#...
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The LEE 10# seems perfect for me. Only problem is that a ladle don't fit in it past the pour rod. It would if I filled the pot but I don't like loading it that full. When I venture into ladle pouring I will do it with the stainless steel sauce pan on the hot plate that I use to make muffins.
I still amazed at how well saw dust works. I hung an ice cream bucket off the back of the DeWalt chop saw to catch the saw dust. I have a large hole shaker spice bottle to store it in. Works good. Nice dry pine dust smells good too when added to the pot... ;)
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The LEE 10# seems perfect for me. Only problem is that a ladle don't fit in it past the pour rod. It would if I filled the pot but I don't like loading it that full. When I venture into ladle pouring I will do it with the stainless steel sauce pan on the hot plate that I use to make muffins.
I still amazed at how well saw dust works. I hung an ice cream bucket off the back of the DeWalt chop saw to catch the saw dust. I have a large hole shaker spice bottle to store it in. Works good. Nice dry pine dust smells good too when added to the pot... ;)
Bill, try the bottom pour in to the ladle, I do that when I have molds that to big or to heavy to get under the pot.
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The LEE 10# seems perfect for me. Only problem is that a ladle don't fit in it past the pour rod. It would if I filled the pot but I don't like loading it that full. When I venture into ladle pouring I will do it with the stainless steel sauce pan on the hot plate that I use to make muffins.
I still amazed at how well saw dust works. I hung an ice cream bucket off the back of the DeWalt chop saw to catch the saw dust. I have a large hole shaker spice bottle to store it in. Works good. Nice dry pine dust smells good too when added to the pot... ;)
Bill, try the bottom pour in to the ladle, I do that when I have molds that to big or to heavy to get under the pot.
I never thought of that, I was thinking to just get a ladle only 20-ish pound furnace.
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I have the Lee 20# bottom pour pot.
I ended up turning the bottom pour off, and using Waynes method of pressure pouring.
It is easier if I keep the pot filled more than half way. I never have to refill the pot during a session, and the added bonus is that with that much hot lead in the pot, when I add the sprues back in, it doesn't drop my temperature a whole lot.
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The LEE 10# seems perfect for me. Only problem is that a ladle don't fit in it past the pour rod. It would if I filled the pot but I don't like loading it that full. When I venture into ladle pouring I will do it with the stainless steel sauce pan on the hot plate that I use to make muffins.
I still amazed at how well saw dust works. I hung an ice cream bucket off the back of the DeWalt chop saw to catch the saw dust. I have a large hole shaker spice bottle to store it in. Works good. Nice dry pine dust smells good too when added to the pot... ;)
Bill, try the bottom pour in to the ladle, I do that when I have molds that to big or to heavy to get under the pot.
Never thought about that.... thanks.
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I have the Lee 20# bottom pour pot.
I ended up turning the bottom pour off, and using Waynes method of pressure pouring.
It is easier if I keep the pot filled more than half way. I never have to refill the pot during a session, and the added bonus is that with that much hot lead in the pot, when I add the sprues back in, it doesn't drop my temperature a whole lot.
The 10# does not have a shut off.
Also, I add my sprues when I'm taking a break... Been looking for a temp gauge at the local stores but most are for cooking and do read above 500. A PID would be nice but I seem to be doing ok.
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Lead thermometers...
Analog - https://www.brownells.com/reloading/bullet-casting/melting-pots--accessories/lead-thermometer/ (https://www.brownells.com/reloading/bullet-casting/melting-pots--accessories/lead-thermometer/)
Digital - https://www.brownells.com/reloading/bullet-casting/melting-pots--accessories/digital-lead-thermometer/ (https://www.brownells.com/reloading/bullet-casting/melting-pots--accessories/digital-lead-thermometer/)
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I have this one works great. If you are getting results with out it might be a waste of money right now. Plus it's one more fiddly thing to fuss with. Esp for what you require.
https://www.amazon.com/RotoMetals-Pewter-Bullet-Casting-Thermometer/dp/B0026Q6GE0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=1J0JPP30ZADBC&keywords=lead+melting+pot+thermometer&qid=1681229572&sprefix=lead+pot+th%2Caps%2C167&sr=8-3 (https://www.amazon.com/RotoMetals-Pewter-Bullet-Casting-Thermometer/dp/B0026Q6GE0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=1J0JPP30ZADBC&keywords=lead+melting+pot+thermometer&qid=1681229572&sprefix=lead+pot+th%2Caps%2C167&sr=8-3)
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Thanks Guys..
That's what I'm thinking Matt.
BTW... the Urban LOVES the boat tails... I'm talking dead nut stacking at 30 yds. Even better than the slugs.
So, I know what I'll be casting... a boat load of boat tails ;) ;D
So now that I have the 217 20 RF Brass on the way, I'll start saving my nickles for the boat tail mold.
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This is the one I use.
https://noebulletmolds.com/site/shop/bullet-casting-reloading/melting-pots-and-related/thermometers/lead-pot-thermometer-5-stem/
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Thanks Guys..
That's what I'm thinking Matt.
BTW... the Urban LOVES the boat tails... I'm talking dead nut stacking at 30 yds. Even better than the slugs.
So, I know what I'll be casting... a boat load of boat tails ;) ;D
So now that I have the 217 20 RF Brass on the way, I'll start saving my nickles for the boat tail mold.
My Urban loves the boat tails as well.
My Grandson came over, and I pulled the Urban out.
I had it loaded with BBTs.
I told him to put the center dot of the scope on the 6" steel plate that I have at 100 yards.
8 out of 10 shots hit... Hard!
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Another gun confirmed to shoot the .22 pellets I plan to cast...
The Beeman 1358 shoots the Meplats and the Boat tails well.
I still have Betty Lou's Maximus, the FD-PCP and a couple of my HPA 'lego' guns to try.
And there might be some stragglers I'm not thinking of right now.
I also have one springer to try... the Yukon Reaxis.
This is looking as good as I had hoped for.
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I've never used a gauge for measuring the temp of lead. I basically set it to where it cast's best for the lead that I'm using.
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You know, something has always been a nuisance to me has been trying to keep track of what gun like which pellet. I've always told myself that I would one day make a log of them all.... yeah right. ??? That never happened.
So, at least in .25 and .22 I should be able to nail it down to 1 or 2 choices.
I also told myself that guns that didn't shoot these would make their way to the chopping block.. I'm happy to see that most of my favorite guns won't face the guillotine.
.20 cal is easy... They all like the same pellet.
The .177 is another story... many of them like the same one or two but there are a few picky ones.
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I've never used a gauge for measuring the temp of lead. I basically set it to where it cast's best for the lead that I'm using.
Wayne... that's how I will go about unless I start to have issues. Then a gauge may come in handy to see if temp is the issue.
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Bill I seen that you had your caster set to 4 1/2, with pure lead it takes more heat, I run my 4lb caster at 6 1/2. Tin alone will drop the melting point
quite a bit too. I should try casting with tin sometime because they say you can fill the cavities much better. The pellet is harder but not a whole lot
running 1% tin plus fights corrosion much better. I did try it once but with that old single heat caster I used it was too hot and I'd get whiskers.
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Yes, I was getting some whiskers today but it's an older brass mold. I'm sure I have alot to learn but I have the basics now and I am pouring good pellets... just need to gain experience and fine tune what I'm doing.
I do appreciate all the advice and knowledge sharing from you guys that have been doing this for awhile.
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Yes, I was getting some whiskers today but it's an older brass mold. I'm sure I have alot to learn but I have the basics now and I am pouring good pellets... just need to gain experience and fine tune what I'm doing.
I do appreciate all the advice and knowledge sharing from you guys that have been doing this for awhile.
I notice my brass pellet mold likes to be hot and have a very hot pour. The hotter I could keep things, the better the pellets.
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Yes, and I'm going to test that theory once I get back to that mold. Right now I'm in boat tail mode. And the mold I am using is a 4 cav aluminum. I need to make a bunch of these because this mold is on loan and I'm not sure when I can get my hands on one of my own.
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Yes, and I'm going to test that theory once I get back to that mold. Right now I'm in boat tail mode. And the mold I am using is a 4 cav aluminum. I need to make a bunch of these because this mold is on loan and I'm not sure when I can get my hands on one of my own.
The slug molds are much easier to cast with than the pellet molds, especially if it's a flat nose (pinless) mold.
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Yes, and I'm going to test that theory once I get back to that mold. Right now I'm in boat tail mode. And the mold I am using is a 4 cav aluminum. I need to make a bunch of these because this mold is on loan and I'm not sure when I can get my hands on one of my own.
The slug molds are much easier to cast with than the pellet molds, especially if it's a flat nose (pinless) mold.
I bet they are... the ones I am pouring are HP but they seem to drop right out.
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Yes, and I'm going to test that theory once I get back to that mold. Right now I'm in boat tail mode. And the mold I am using is a 4 cav aluminum. I need to make a bunch of these because this mold is on loan and I'm not sure when I can get my hands on one of my own.
The slug molds are much easier to cast with than the pellet molds, especially if it's a flat nose (pinless) mold.
I bet they are... the ones I am pouring are HP but they seem to drop right out.
I have a 25 cal BBT mold, but my Eagle Claw so far hates it. It's a shame because the mold casts so well. I'm thinking about having a machinist turn it into a flat base mold and seeing if they shoot any better. I wasn't able to sell the mold, so not like I can lose anything other than the cost to have it machined.
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I was sent some samples of the .25 BT. My guns didn't like them either.. I think they need to be shot faster that I have my guns tuned to. These 27 grain Meplats work just fine in all 3 guns, Hatsan 1KV included.
Another basket case F.U.G.L.Y. is due to land in a couple days.. we'll see how that goes. It may just end up a pile of spare parts waiting to be needed. The ultimate goal would be to make another Betty Lou gun out of it. Matching pairs of guns (his and hers) are fun.
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Up and at it early this morning..
My casting location was crowding in on my shooting bench area so I moved it this morning.
Now I have the pot and mold heating up.
Gonna pick up where I left off yesterday, casting boat tails.
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Bill are you doing the .22's or the .25's ? My favorites are the .22's in my Xisico in my signature, they also shoot excellent from my Airmax Dominator
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Wayne...
I'm doing the .22 boat tail HP this morning. They are dropping between 27.80 and 28.20.
So far the Urban and Beeman 1358 shoot them very well.
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Bill they shoot really good in my Crosman 150's too but drop fast but are accurate as far as the windage goes.
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I'm gonna test them in the FD-PCP today... I may have to bump the hammer spring in a bit but that's no problem.
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Just something about the smell of coffee and molten lead in the morning just brightens my day.... ;D
I fluxed with some pine sawdust yesterday and just as I finished Betty Lou walked in to the Red Shed and asked if I coould make the house smell that good.
I said , sure but that's only temporary... you won't like what comes next.
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Just something about the smell of coffee and molten lead in the morning just brightens my day.... ;D
I fluxed with some pine sawdust yesterday and just as I finished Betty Lou walked in to the Red Shed and asked if I coould make the house smell that good.
I said , sure but that's only temporary... you won't like what comes next.
This might be more acceptable -> https://www.heritageseaweed.com/products/pine-incense (https://www.heritageseaweed.com/products/pine-incense)
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LOL.... she has oil burners all over the house. Sometimes I feel like I'm in the Amsterdam opium dens or someplace.
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Starting to get my inventory built up....
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BSA barrels love the 22 BBTs. My Prod and Cayden do too. The only gun I have that doesn't shoot them well is a 362.
I've got a buddy with a woodworking shop that's obsessed with cedar. I get all my fluxing sawdust from him.
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Lookin good to me.
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BSA barrels love the 22 BBTs. My Prod and Cayden do too. The only gun I have that doesn't shoot them well is a 362.
I've got a buddy with a woodworking shop that's obsessed with cedar. I get all my fluxing sawdust from him.
Both my 362s have been converted to .177
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Lookin good to me.
Yep.... workin' on it.
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Once you are past the testing phase, it will be easier to gain on your cast ammo inventory ;)
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Yep... I figured so.. plus I'll be able to know where to increase my efforts.
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BSA barrels love the 22 BBTs. My Prod and Cayden do too. The only gun I have that doesn't shoot them well is a 362.
I've got a buddy with a woodworking shop that's obsessed with cedar. I get all my fluxing sawdust from him.
Both my 362s have been converted to .177
One of mine has been converted to .25. The other is still .22. I haven't been impressed with either of the factory .22 barrels I've owned.
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I shot some more of my wad cutters this morning
https://vimeo.com/816881477
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Wayne..
I'm gonna try some of the waddies after the BT but I'm not too optimistic.
The may work good in the 2240 CO2 stubbies but I'm not going to buy a mold just for guns that I don't shoot real often. They mostly ride with me on the mower for snake duty.
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My compartment tray is full of those boattails so I swapped out the pins for the shortest pin. Not quite a flat nose but almost. They drop at 30.20 give or take. I put the first 10 out in the Urban mag.
Yep Yep Yep.
The bad news is... neither the FD-PCP or Betty Lou's WSMR Maximus liked anything I cast real well. There is room for tuning in both but that goes against what I normally do. I usually find the pellet to match the tune as opposed to tuning the gun for a specific pellet. But I may have to change my ways for these 2. They are 2 guns that I would have alot of trouble parting with. I'm sure Betty Lou would have something to say about her WSMR being sold. :o
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That's the cup point pin.
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That's the cup point pin.
Might be the FN pins, but they are set too high. This happened to me the first time I tried to cast with the FN pins on my 45 mold. It helped show me that all the pins were a little bit off from each other.
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Agree with longer pins, those slugs and pellets with the longest pins fly the best for me.
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Seem to be just fine for me... admittedly I haven't cast a bunch of them yet.. Betty Lou isn't feeling too good and I want to spend some time in the house with her to make sure she's ok.
She's gone to lay down now so I'll slip back out if she goes to sleep. We're sure it's just a bug... nothing serious.
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They do drop out of the mold easier.
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That's the cup point pin.
Might be the FN pins, but they are set too high. This happened to me the first time I tried to cast with the FN pins on my 45 mold. It helped show me that all the pins were a little bit off from each other.
If it's not perfectly flat it's the cup point.
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That's the cup point pin.
Might be the FN pins, but they are set too high. This happened to me the first time I tried to cast with the FN pins on my 45 mold. It helped show me that all the pins were a little bit off from each other.
If it's not perfectly flat it's the cup point.
Yes, It has a slight cup and all 4 are equal. I'm sure that's by design.
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That's the cup point pin.
Might be the FN pins, but they are set too high. This happened to me the first time I tried to cast with the FN pins on my 45 mold. It helped show me that all the pins were a little bit off from each other.
If it's not perfectly flat it's the cup point.
If the FN pins are set too deep into the mold you will get dimpled slugs that are not as deep as the cup point, but not flat either. I had this happen to me, but easy enough to rectify the issue by adjusting pin depth.
Does anyone use their cup point pins? I've been thinking about trying some and seeing what the expansion was like compared to the full HP pin.
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That's the cup point pin.
Might be the FN pins, but they are set too high. This happened to me the first time I tried to cast with the FN pins on my 45 mold. It helped show me that all the pins were a little bit off from each other.
If it's not perfectly flat it's the cup point.
If the FN pins are set too deep into the mold you will get dimpled slugs that are not as deep as the cup point, but not flat either. I had this happen to me, but easy enough to rectify the issue by adjusting pin depth.
Does anyone use their cup point pins? I've been thinking about trying some and seeing what the expansion was like compared to the full HP pin.
I see what you are saying that can happen. That's not how it read what he described.
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With the accuracy I got from the Urban with these, I'm not going to change a thing. Besides, it's not my mold so I'm not inclined to 'tinker' with it... :-\
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With the accuracy I got from the Urban with these, I'm not going to change a thing. Besides, it's not my mold so I'm not inclined to 'tinker' with it... :-\
You won't hurt anything by adjusting the pin depth.
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With the accuracy I got from the Urban with these, I'm not going to change a thing. Besides, it's not my mold so I'm not inclined to 'tinker' with it... :-\
You won't hurt anything by adjusting the pin depth.
Maybe not but, I still ain't gonna do it... This will most likely be the other .22 mold I buy, I'll tinker with mine.
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With the accuracy I got from the Urban with these, I'm not going to change a thing. Besides, it's not my mold so I'm not inclined to 'tinker' with it... :-\
You won't hurt anything by adjusting the pin depth.
Maybe not but, I still ain't gonna do it... This will most likely be the other .22 mold I buy, I'll tinker with mine.
Lol if you seen how I adjust mine you would not be so concerned.
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With the accuracy I got from the Urban with these, I'm not going to change a thing. Besides, it's not my mold so I'm not inclined to 'tinker' with it... :-\
You won't hurt anything by adjusting the pin depth.
Maybe not but, I still ain't gonna do it... This will most likely be the other .22 mold I buy, I'll tinker with mine.
Lol if you seen how I adjust mine you would not be so concerned.
It's like grandma used to always say... it's yours, wash it as fast as you want. ;D
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Your Gma is twisted
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Your Gma is twisted
Yeah, that's probably because her grand children caused her to turn over in her grave way too many times.
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Casting airgun pellets/slugs is a hobby in itself, I've been restraining myself from buying guns just to see how they'll shoot in them, that Hatsun Jet I've
been looking at way too much, looks like it could be a lot of fun too. I think it's probably a better gun than those SPA PP750's are ???
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Wayne, never held a Jet but, SCulbert and his wife visited our home a few weeks ago and he had a NOTOS with him. I didn't shoot it but I was really impressed with the quality feel of the gun. It absolutely did not feel like a plastic toy kinda gun.
I'm actually glad I did not shoot it... last thing I need is another gun. :o
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Wayne, never held a Jet but, SCulbert and his wife visited our home a few weeks ago and he had a NOTOS with him. I didn't shoot it but I was really impressed with the quality feel of the gun. It absolutely did not feel like a plastic toy kinda gun.
I'm actually glad I did not shoot it... last thing I need is another gun. :o
You have unlimited air, unlimited ammo, why not unlimited airguns.
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Wayne, never held a Jet but, SCulbert and his wife visited our home a few weeks ago and he had a NOTOS with him. I didn't shoot it but I was really impressed with the quality feel of the gun. It absolutely did not feel like a plastic toy kinda gun.
I'm actually glad I did not shoot it... last thing I need is another gun. :o
You have unlimited air, unlimited ammo, why not unlimited airguns.
Probably has something to do with the lack of unlimited cash flow and very limited patience on Betty Lou's part.
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Kinda like visiting those beaches down your way... "You can look but don't touch".
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Wayne, never held a Jet but, SCulbert and his wife visited our home a few weeks ago and he had a NOTOS with him. I didn't shoot it but I was really impressed with the quality feel of the gun. It absolutely did not feel like a plastic toy kinda gun.
I'm actually glad I did not shoot it... last thing I need is another gun. :o
You have unlimited air, unlimited ammo, why not unlimited airguns.
Because not unlimited 🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑💩
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Casting airgun pellets/slugs is a hobby in itself, I've been restraining myself from buying guns just to see how they'll shoot in them, that Hatsun Jet I've
been looking at way too much, looks like it could be a lot of fun too. I think it's probably a better gun than those SPA PP750's are ???
Do you want a pistol or carbine?
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Matt if I did buy one it would be for using it as a pistol.
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Matt if I did buy one it would be for using it as a pistol.
The jet would be better suited for that roll right out of the box in my opinion then. That's why I bought mine.
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Matt they're not that expensive either and I think you can fill them without a probe also ???
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Matt they're not that expensive either and I think you can fill them without a probe also ???
The Jets come with a female foster fitting as the male fitting is larger than the standard fosters. They do have some potential, the heavier the ammo the more power, up to 60 gr for my .25..
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would a double male work connected to a standard whip then?
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would a double male work connected to a standard whip then?
No it really is best to replace with a standard male foster on the gun or put one on the supplied female. The supplied female is threaded.
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Hatsan's always did have a goofy setup if you ask me.
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Got the pot heating up.. Gonna drop some of the new to me brass 2 cav 217-20-RF HB MePlats.
Gonna use the long pin/lightest pellet.
They ran 20 - 20.20 last time I dropped them. I cleaned up the mold a bit and adjusted the pins slightly and I'm going to try getting the mold hotter than last time. I was getting hairs and some mold lines.
I think I'm going to take a suggestion from another member/caster and pick up a rock tumbler.
I know I'm getting way ahead of myself but I was watching videos on swagging. It's not really out of the realm of the Red Shed possibilites. Swagging opens up new options for pellet choices.
Idle minds can be dangerous.. ;)
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Swaging dies are expensive but probably the best option for consistency.
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I've got that same mold Bill, had for quite a while now, it's a great 2 cavity mold IMO.
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When Stephen started his swaging business(AVS) he had 3grand invested to begin with and that was for slugs for the Liberty. He's been selling all different calibers on ebay but I think all he's doing are slugs ???
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Yep.. dies would be the big expense but just one or 2 for personal preference is not too bad.
A press could be made pretty simply from a hydrolic bottle jack and wire ingots can be poured.
A cutter is pretty basic as well.
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It is rumored that NOE has swaging molds in the works, I'm still waiting on .20and .177 casting molds, so not holding my breath.
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Heck an Arbor press would probably work good too ???
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It is rumored that NOE has swaging molds in the works, I'm still waiting on .20and .177 casting molds, so not holding my breath.
I haven't heard about swaging dies in the works, that's a new one on me. I'm also waiting for the .177 BBT's.
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.177 is still fairly inexpensive to buy pellets. I don't see any of those molds in my near future.
I wish they would make a .25 at 24gr. I can't seem to find one.
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These 2 Sentrys just love the Hatsan Vortex Strike 24.70.
Cheapest I found them is $6.99 per 200 and a 10% discount.
That's a pretty good price but I don't expect them to last long.
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A .20 mold would be SO sweet!
Imagine how much more of us would be shooting them if pellets were readily available.
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When I die this is where I wanna go.....
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A .20 mold would be SO sweet!
Imagine how much more of us would be shooting them if pellets were readily available.
Maybe some day... I waited more than a year for the .22 wadcutters, I can wait another year for the .20s... though I hope and pray it will not be that long ::)
When I die this is where I wanna go.....
Just take your time and don't be in a hurry ;D
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LOL There is a LOOOOOONG line of us waiting for the 20 cal and 17 cal,
I just hope I can live long enough to enjoy them.
I have the rat hole funds saved for them, been tempted to get another item I want, real bad,
and so, sure as shootin, when the funds are gone, guess what..............
here they come............then I'll be left holding the empty bag again...... ::)
Tia,
Don
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.20 caliber seems to be a no-brainer mold to make, at least in small batches, since those are hard to come by. Unless in small batches it is not worth the cost to make them.
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When I die this is where I wanna go.....
Into a lead pot????????
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Casting Heaven.
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One of my favorite hunting pellets is the NOE 250-34-RF (Hunter Magnum) I was just looking at a refurb at PA of Seneca Eagleclow 25 cal also.
I bet these pellets would be excellent in that gun.
(https://i.imgur.com/jZJMPl6.png)
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One of my favorite hunting pellets is the NOE 250-34-RF (Hunter Magnum) I was just looking at a refurb at PA of Seneca Eagleclow 25 cal also.
I bet these pellets would be excellent in that gun.
(https://i.imgur.com/jZJMPl6.png)
I think they did well in mine but I usually shoot slugs. The 250-42-FN does not shoot in the Eagle Claw. I think the new 251-39 would work well since they look just like the 33 and 42 grain NSA slugs that shoot hole in hole for me.
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Casting Heaven.
Hum? Hot molten toxic metal?? Don't sound like heaven to me. 🤔😂🤣😂
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Casting Heaven.
Hum? Hot molten toxic metal?? Don't sound like heaven to me. 🤔😂🤣😂
Maybe not but, saving a bunch of money casting my own ammo sounds pretty good. No more 'out of stock, rising prices, poor packing and delivery woes. May not be Heaven but blissful.
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After taking a break from anything airgun related yesterday I'm gonna slip out to the Red Shed and fire the pot and mold warming plate fired up.
Betty Lou had a 6" cast iron skillet she wasn't using and donated it to the casting cause. It's the perfect size to sit upside down on the hot plate and keeps mold nice and toasty. I merely swap the handles and I can bounce into casting a different pellet. Eventually I'll pick up another handle set.
Tomorrow we plan to made our monthly bulk store run to the city and I plan to pick up that rock tumbler.
I had a cheap drill press vise laying around and mounted it to the LEE pot base. It's adjustable for different mold sizes and makes it easy to slide the mold to align the fill nipple with each sprue hole. Sure speeds thing up... for me anyways.
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What's the plans for the Rock Tumbler?
You gonna polish you pellets in some corn cob media like a vibrator bowl??
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Any flash, hairs or mold marks come off and it polishes the pellets up. You can also lightly lube if you choose.
No media... just the pellets.
Something I've heard about and I'm gonna try it.
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The Prince of repurpose strikes again....
We had bought a small 1.5 gallon shop vac for the RV. We kept it when we sold the RV. There were 3 or 4 other old not working shop vacs around here when we took over the place. They went to the dump but something told me to stash the hoses. There were also a couple large plastic funnels down in the barn like the kind you see in a shop for draining oil.
The shop vac sits on a shelf with the outlet hose aimed at the window fan. Several feet of intake hose stretches over the rafters and plugs into the large funnel and makes a hood over the LEE pot.
Turn on the window fan, the shop vac and the fumes and whatnot exits the Red Shed. I only feel the need to use it when I flux.
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It will also be useful when I melt down that nasty wheel weight lead into muffins.
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Any flash, hairs or mold marks come off and it polishes the pellets up. You can also lightly lube if you choose.
No media... just the pellets.
Something I've heard about and I'm gonna try it.
Hummm sounds rough on them without some kind of media... even sawdust for good measure.
Lead bouncing on lead would lead to bent lead. (awkward language).
Interested how it turns out.
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Any flash, hairs or mold marks come off and it polishes the pellets up. You can also lightly lube if you choose.
No media... just the pellets.
Something I've heard about and I'm gonna try it.
Hummm sounds rough on them without some kind of media... even sawdust for good measure.
Lead bouncing on lead would lead to bent lead. (awkward language).
Interested how it turns out.
From my source of info they come out nice and shiny and slick. I think sawdust would buffer them and defeat the purpose. As for lead bouncing... we're not talking about those big old hunks of lead that you cast.. these ones weigh 20 and 27 gr respectively to .22 and .25.
For the $30 cost of the rock tumbler, I'll give it a shot and report... if all fails they'll just go back into the pot.
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Any flash, hairs or mold marks come off and it polishes the pellets up. You can also lightly lube if you choose.
No media... just the pellets.
Something I've heard about and I'm gonna try it.
Hummm sounds rough on them without some kind of media... even sawdust for good measure.
Lead bouncing on lead would lead to bent lead. (awkward language).
Interested how it turns out.
From my source of info they come out nice and shiny and slick. I think sawdust would buffer them and defeat the purpose. As for lead bouncing... we're not talking about those big old hunks of lead that you cast.. these ones weigh 20 and 27 gr respectively to .22 and .25.
For the $30 cost of the rock tumbler, I'll give it a shot and report... if all fails they'll just go back into the pot.
I powder coat my cast pellets using the shake-n-bake method and I never have any damage. There's some pretty vigorous shaking involved too. I'd venture to say it's a good bit more violent than a tumbler.
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Any flash, hairs or mold marks come off and it polishes the pellets up. You can also lightly lube if you choose.
No media... just the pellets.
Something I've heard about and I'm gonna try it.
Hummm sounds rough on them without some kind of media... even sawdust for good measure.
Lead bouncing on lead would lead to bent lead. (awkward language).
Interested how it turns out.
From my source of info they come out nice and shiny and slick. I think sawdust would buffer them and defeat the purpose. As for lead bouncing... we're not talking about those big old hunks of lead that you cast.. these ones weigh 20 and 27 gr respectively to .22 and .25.
For the $30 cost of the rock tumbler, I'll give it a shot and report... if all fails they'll just go back into the pot.
I powder coat my cast pellets using the shake-n-bake method and I never have any damage. There's some pretty vigorous shaking involved too. I'd venture to say it's a good bit more violent than a tumbler.
Agreed.. I think the term "tumbler" makes it sound more violent than what it is. Actually they kinda roll around and rub each other. But like I said.. if it don't work then I'm not out much. I'll find a use for it. Maybe I'll tumble some rocks... ::)
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The Prince of repurpose strikes again....
We had bought a small 1.5 gallon shop vac for the RV. We kept it when we sold the RV. There were 3 or 4 other old not working shop vacs around here when we took over the place. They went to the dump but something told me to stash the hoses. There were also a couple large plastic funnels down in the barn like the kind you see in a shop for draining oil.
The shop vac sits on a shelf with the outlet hose aimed at the window fan. Several feet of intake hose stretches over the rafters and plugs into the large funnel and makes a hood over the LEE pot.
Turn on the window fan, the shop vac and the fumes and whatnot exits the Red Shed. I only feel the need to use it when I flux.
Came up with a plan to tidy this up. Right now the vac hose is kinda draped over the rafters. Betty Lou, the dogs and I took a walk down to the barn and I spotted a length of 3" pvc pipe. I dragged it back to the Red Shed and cut several 3" sections. Tomorrow after the store run I plan to screw those 3" lengths to the wall around the top and run the hose through them. I'll get some pics once done and cleaned up.
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Who knew polyvinyl chloride would be used for for so much more than plumbing.
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The rigid pipe will also help with the pressure drop from a super long flex hose.
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Not quite the idea. The pvc will just be cut into 3" hoops and fastened to the wall. They will just be support hoops to run the vac hose through. You'll get the idea once I post pics. I won't lose much vacuum because I'm only running about an 8' run and were just drawing vapors. I will also remove the filter in the vac to reduce airflow restriction. I'm not trying to filter anything. I'm just directing fumes/gases from fluxing out of the building and away from my face.
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Waiting for Betty Lou to motivate for the grocery run, I knew I had time to finish this up... :o
So I went to the Red Shed and installed the anti stink device.. ;)
On thing to note.. the vac is 2.5 gallons not 1.5. Works like a charm.
I love it when a plan.... well, you know. ;D
Pics as promised...
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Very nice.
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Sweet !! You should have it running any time you have the pot running... Lead vapor !!!
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Nice work on the "fume hood". There are two basic types of tumblers, the rotating drum type and the vibrating (ultra sound the newest) ones. The rotating drum should be fine for our purpose here since the motion is not very forceful. I use one on my jump rings for jewelry/chain maille, usually with a bit of water and Dawn dishwashing liquid.
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I just ordered a cheap Walmart one to try it out. Less than $30. Heck, I'll try just about anything once.
If it works out, I have ideas to make one of my own. You guessed it, repurposed stuff.
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Trial and error....
FedEx arrived with the Walmart 'bottom of the barrel' rock tumbler.
I opened the box and set aside all the rock polishing ingredients. It did come with a bunch of stuff for a kid to have a great Christmas day... none of which I will be using.
So I poured the equivalent of maybe 2 tins of pellets that I had cast, dropped the barrel onto the base and pressed play... nothing but a red light. So I hit the timer setting for 1 day and pressed play again... nothing. Ok, time to read the instructions...
Oh, there it is... you have to put the cover on to activate the safety stop... got it.
Next, the motor spun but the barrel didn't turn. :o WTH?
Upon further inspection... looks like the 7 year old Chinese kid that assemble this one at the factory put the belt on inside out. The teeth on the belt need to run in the teeth on the gear. :o
Fixed that and hit play again... run, grind, run grind. Again.. WTH? May be not enough weight? So I tried the heavier .25 cal pellets... same thing.
Ok... that bag of rock they sent along with the media are pretty heavy... I'm not mixing pellets to add more weight...
I know, just add water. Same, same.
Two things here...
I could push my finger on one side of the barrel and make it run... but, I'm not standing there with my finger on this thing for 45 minutes or so. Heck I might as well build a hand crank tumbler.
I found a small brass washer and shimmed out the side of the guide.... BADA BING !! We're tumbling now !
FYI... water and lead dust makes lead mud and coats your pellets with it... :-[ no bueno.
They look like they were powder coated.
So now I'm gonna let everything dry out and try again later or tomorrow.
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Add a couple drops of Dawn to the water then rinse the pellet water into a bucket, let the lead settle, scrape it off and dry it on the sun, throw it on top of a COLD melting pot and reuse.
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That may work but... I think I want to stay away from the water all together.
I think I might try a few drops of lube.
And BTW... I figured it out.. I didn't have too little weight, I had too much.
Instead of the equivalent of 2 tins, I reduced it to one and it runs like a top now.
Whoda thunk lead was heavier than stone? :o
Look, it's a kid's toy.. it only built to last Christmas day. :-\
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Maxx-Explore-Rock-Tumbler-Kit-Durable-Gem-Polisher-Children-Teens-Adults-Seniors-8/460026892?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101066808&gclsrc=aw.ds&&adid=22222222227013003455&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=634561567865&wl4=pla-1882113904760&wl5=9012797&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=457950874&wl11=online&wl12=460026892&veh=sem (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Maxx-Explore-Rock-Tumbler-Kit-Durable-Gem-Polisher-Children-Teens-Adults-Seniors-8/460026892?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101066808&gclsrc=aw.ds&&adid=22222222227013003455&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=634561567865&wl4=pla-1882113904760&wl5=9012797&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=457950874&wl11=online&wl12=460026892&veh=sem)
And lookie there, they jacked the price up from the $19.99 I paid.
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Here was my order....
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Maxx-Explore-Rock-Tumbler-Kit-Durable-Gem-Polisher-Children-Teens-Adults-Seniors-8/460026892 (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Maxx-Explore-Rock-Tumbler-Kit-Durable-Gem-Polisher-Children-Teens-Adults-Seniors-8/460026892)
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I finished up tumbling the pellets I had cast and they all came out silky slick and clean. But, they also came out the color of gun metal. I think that was from them running in that water and the residue left in the tumbler. I'm going to wash the tumbler in Dawn and let it air dry. Then I will cast a fresh batch and run them.
Betty Lou's highly modded Maximus (no power mods) really likes the 217 20 FN. I haven't tried them in other guns since the tumbler.
The only gun I had out at the time for the 250 30 FN was the Hatsan stryker 1K vortex. Sadly, it does not shoot them well.
This presents me with a delema...
I know the Avenger loves them.
The Sentrys like the 24.7 Hatsan and the Benjamin 24.8 as does the 1KV. The goal is to stop buying production pellets. If I cannot find a 24gr mold, these 3 guns may need to go away. This may be where the serious culling begins. If it comes down to it, they will go towards funding another Avenger.
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Washed and rinsed the drum last night before bed. Let it air dry in the drainer all night.
Fired up the pot this morning while I was waiting for coffee to brew. I set the 217 20 FN mold on top of it to bring it up to temp.
Ran a small batch of pellets for a fresh trial run in the tumbler.. maybe a half tin or so.
Meantime I tossed all the sprues back in the pot.
BL is gonna side track me for a bit this morning. She wants to run a couple strands of plastic banding around the perimeter of the hot house just for added strength against the wind.
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Bill, just for Gits and Shiggles... you ought to throw those rocks in the tumbler with the abrasives they sent...
You'll be amazed at what comes out.
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Yeah, I know.. Betty Lou is going to make that happen. She picked up one of the bags that came with it and asked me what it was. I told her it was stuff to make key chains, bracelets and necklaces. Her eye lit up and I knew where it was going. Funny thing is.. she don't wear none of those things.
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Added another half tin or so to the drum.. didn't sound like there was enough action in there.
Just in time for Betty Lou to motivate and wrap 2 rows of banding around the hot house.
Gonna eat some breakfast and let that the tumbler to run for an hour or so.
By then I should have another batch poured and ready.
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Just cranking them out...
The darker ones have been throough the tumbler.
I'm surprised at how much swarf comes off. All the more that won't make it into my guns.
Sorry bout the fuzzy pic... tablet needs adjusted.
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Bill
Here is what I tumble my pellets in, 10-30 min max,
pins can be removed with a magnet inside HD plastic sack.
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Tumbling-Media-Pins/dp/B077DKQDCY/ref=asc_df_B077DKQDCY/? (https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Tumbling-Media-Pins/dp/B077DKQDCY/ref=asc_df_B077DKQDCY/?)
I fill my Model B tumbler full with hot tap water and a squirt of Dawn soap,
10#'s of pins.
Does an outstanding job, of removing all the junk, mold part lines etc, lightly lube after wash,
if you want to and have fun............... ;)
YMMV,
Don
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Thanks for that info Don... I put them in the cart.
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Bill
Look for cheaper prices, a place in UTAH had them cheaper,
I'll try to find the name.
Tia,
Don
Thanks for that info Don... I put them in the cart.
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Don...
you gave me a heck of an idea that I'm trying right now... BBs.
Same thing with the magnet in the sock... that part works perfectly.
I had an old 10" speaker that I use for testing wheel weights. Knocked the magnet off and stuck it in a sock.
All the BBs stuck to it and left the pellets in the plastic bowl.
Turned the sock inside out and removed the magnet.... sock full of BBs.
Rinse and repeat.
Oh, almost forgot the last step... went to the Red Shed fridge and grabbed a cold beer... ;)
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Betty Lou enters the Red Shed.. "What's that noise?"
Me... "I'm tumbling pellets"
Her... Oh I see, but you won't do laundry."
Me... " Then you might not want to look over here because I'm also cooking a pot of lead."
:-\
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;D LMBO
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Laundry is my second most hated chore. Dishes is the first.
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Bill
Here is what I tumble my pellets in, 10-30 min max,
pins can be removed with a magnet inside HD plastic sack.
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Tumbling-Media-Pins/dp/B077DKQDCY/ref=asc_df_B077DKQDCY/? (https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Tumbling-Media-Pins/dp/B077DKQDCY/ref=asc_df_B077DKQDCY/?)
I fill my Model B tumbler full with hot tap water and a squirt of Dawn soap,
10#'s of pins.
Does an outstanding job, of removing all the junk, mold part lines etc, lightly lube after wash,
if you want to and have fun............... ;)
YMMV,
Don
↑↑↑↑↑↑↑↑
THIS!! ;)
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Just cranking them out...
The darker ones have been throough the tumbler.
I'm surprised at how much swarf comes off. All the more that won't make it into my guns.
Sorry bout the fuzzy pic... tablet needs adjusted.
Why do you have a powder scoop in with your pellets?
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;D LMBO
+1 This thread is getting real interesting, it's almost like a soap opera. Tune in to see what happens in the next episode As the Tumbler Turns.
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Kris
Priceless..................LOL
Don
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Just cranking them out...
The darker ones have been throough the tumbler.
I'm surprised at how much swarf comes off. All the more that won't make it into my guns.
Sorry bout the fuzzy pic... tablet needs adjusted.
Why do you have a powder scoop in with your pellets?
That is a LEE reloading scoop. I use it to scoop out pellets to load into mags. I bought it when I was reloading shot shells for the Trapmaster and just kinda kept using it for pellets.
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;D LMBO
+1 This thread is getting real interesting, it's almost like a soap opera. Tune in to see what happens in the next episode As the Tumbler Turns.
LOL... definitely a learning curve for me. I like trying things out of the box.. some successful, some not.
The tumbler definitely works... just gotta refine the process.... Don has been a huge help.
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Spent the morning setting up the new "Casting Corner".
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As one adjust to their needs their systems become custom. Mine is conveniently located by my indoor pellet trap for easy reclamation, sometimes I get a lucky ricochet right back into the pot ;)
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As one adjust to their needs their systems become custom. Mine is conveniently located by my indoor pellet trap for easy reclamation, sometimes I get a lucky ricochet right back into the pot ;)
LOL James....
My trap is 35yds away... I'd have to get real lucky... or would that be unlucky?
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But yeah... I realized when I was working on the reclaimed mower that the casting adventure had completely taken over my workbench. It had to move and that corner was nothing more than a catch all space. So Betty Lou and I went on a scavenger hunt this morning and rounded up wood for the bench, legs and shelves.
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It's a beautiful 76* outside. It's 68* in the Red Shed and 100* in Betty Lou's hot house. She's been in and out of there all morning. It's like stepping out into A/C.
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It's a beautiful 76* outside. It's 68* in the Red Shed and 100* in Betty Lou's hot house. She's been in and out of there all morning. It's like stepping out into A/C.
Just a FYI plants grow best from 70- 85 degrees, over that they shut down to protect themselves, work out some mid day ventilation. Solar fans ???
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I mentioned that to Betty Lou on a couple occasions James. I guess she'll just have to learn.
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Just cast another tin of .25. (200 or so) They are being happy tumbling around together with some BBs in the tumbler.
I'm getting pretty quick at it. The new bench is nice because it's 6" or so taller and make the pot at a more comfortable height.
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Just cast another tin of .25. (200 or so) They are being happy tumbling around together with some BBs in the tumbler.
I'm getting pretty quick at it. The new bench is nice because it's 6" or so taller and make the pot at a more comfortable height.
Any chance you could get a closeup of the pellets before you tumble them and another after they are tumbled?
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Right now you won't see much difference aside from being smoother.
Interestingly, if I just tumble the pellets alone they will take on a dullish finish and if I tumble them with the steel BBs the come out shiny like a chrome finish.
But, right now I'm dealing with alot of flash around the skirts of the pellets. I'm adjusting temps to see if that is causing it. I'm also wondering if I need to adjust the pins.
I'm looking into a resizer as well.
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Guys...
I'm getting flash around the skirts of my pellets.. what's up?
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Guys...
I'm getting flash around the skirts of my pellets.. what's up?
The pins are probably set too low.
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Guys...
I'm getting flash around the skirts of my pellets.. what's up?
Either Temps are too high or you have a tiny bit of crud caught in the air channels or the pins. Lasttime I had a tiny piece caught in the lineup pins not the skirt pins.
Or what DJ said.
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Thanks guys.. Imma shut things down for today and let it cool... I'll have a go at the cleaning up the mold and have a look at the pins tomorrow morning before I fire it up.
I really need to consider a temp gauge.. I have no idea where I am with temps but I've tried at different rheostat settings from 4 to 7. I set the mold on top of the pot to heat it up before casting but I think I'll change that to the hot plate instead.
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Cast as cool as you can on pot temp without having spout sticking issues. From my experience, you'll probably find this eliminates a lot of issues like wings and such.
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Cast as cool as you can on pot temp without having spout sticking issues. From my experience, you'll probably find this eliminates a lot of issues like wings and such.
I find it to be mold material dependent. My aluminum molds like a cooler melt, but the brass mold wants it HOT. I get more hairs with a cooler melt. However, I'm casting outside, so my experience may not be relevant.
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Cast as cool as you can on pot temp without having spout sticking issues. From my experience, you'll probably find this eliminates a lot of issues like wings and such.
I find it to be mold material dependent. My aluminum molds like a cooler melt, but the brass mold wants it HOT. I get more hairs with a cooler melt. However, I'm casting outside, so my experience may not be relevant.
But it is relevant as we all cast in different environments. Like I cast just outside my shed door with a fan at my back. So knowing how you do it may help in some way.
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Guys...
I'm getting flash around the skirts of my pellets.. what's up?
I've had that happen when I got a little bit of lead sticking to the pins. I've also had it happen with the pins set to low. I also polish the pins with 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper. Nothing sticks to those pins, nothing!
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Got the mold all cleaned up and I think I found the problem....
I have a hot plate for melting down lead into muffins for the pot. I also wanted to use it to keep the molds hot between pouring sessions but I didn't want to put the molds directly on the hot plate coils. So Betty Lou donated a small cast iron skillet. It fit perfect upside down over the coils and I can rest the molds on top, which would be the bottom of the skillet.
Well, I never considered the grease and oils that were baked into that skillet and I think the put a coating on my mold.
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Anyways.... I have a test pour of about 100 pellets in the tumbler now.
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Cast as cool as you can on pot temp without having spout sticking issues. From my experience, you'll probably find this eliminates a lot of issues like wings and such.
I find it to be mold material dependent. My aluminum molds like a cooler melt, but the brass mold wants it HOT. I get more hairs with a cooler melt. However, I'm casting outside, so my experience may not be relevant.
But it is relevant as we all cast in different environments. Like I cast just outside my shed door with a fan at my back. So knowing how you do it may help in some way.
All good points. My casting experience is only from casting in my shed with a fan drawing the ugly outside and me behind the fan so there is minimum wind hitting the pot. I am a fair-weather caster mostly but do cast during the winter months as well. I like getting all of my casting done before the heat hits. I cast using a 20lb Lee pot that is controlled by a PID controller that I built. I typically like casting at 735° while using some scrap wood as a makeshift enclosure around the pot. This allows me to still get a good flow out of the exposed gravity spout. I used to cast much hotter but that caused me more issues like shrinkage and fins/wings to form on the cast. I suppose I could cast at 750° and could eliminate the enclosure but I think I get the best results at 735°. Having the PID allows me to play around with different temperature to find, at least what I consider, the sweet spot for my setup.
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Yeah, I think if I'm going to continue casting I'm going to need to invest in some way to monitor temps. If for no other reason than to remove the guessing game.
I've complyely removed the cast iron skillet just to remove that from the equasion. I may invest in a brand new unseasoned one... or maybe just a flat iron. We'll see down the road.
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Yeah, I think if I'm going to continue casting I'm going to need to invest in some way to monitor temps. If for no other reason than to remove the guessing game.
I've complyely removed the cast iron skillet just to remove that from the equasion. I may invest in a brand new unseasoned one... or maybe just a flat iron. We'll see down the road.
Burn it off after a good scrubbing with some dawn and maybe some brake parts cleaner? Even new ones come with a season just not been cooked with yet.
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True that.... maybe next time sitting around the campfire sipping a few cold ones I'll just toss it in. Then let it sit out in the weather for a couple weeks.
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Cast as cool as you can on pot temp without having spout sticking issues. From my experience, you'll probably find this eliminates a lot of issues like wings and such.
I find it to be mold material dependent. My aluminum molds like a cooler melt, but the brass mold wants it HOT. I get more hairs with a cooler melt. However, I'm casting outside, so my experience may not be relevant.
But it is relevant as we all cast in different environments. Like I cast just outside my shed door with a fan at my back. So knowing how you do it may help in some way.
All good points. My casting experience is only from casting in my shed with a fan drawing the ugly outside and me behind the fan so there is minimum wind hitting the pot. I am a fair-weather caster mostly but do cast during the winter months as well. I like getting all of my casting done before the heat hits. I cast using a 20lb Lee pot that is controlled by a PID controller that I built. I typically like casting at 735° while using some scrap wood as a makeshift enclosure around the pot. This allows me to still get a good flow out of the exposed gravity spout. I used to cast much hotter but that caused me more issues like shrinkage and fins/wings to form on the cast. I suppose I could cast at 750° and could eliminate the enclosure but I think I get the best results at 735°. Having the PID allows me to play around with different temperature to find, at least what I consider, the sweet spot for my setup.
My next casting upgrade will be a RCBS easy melt furnace.
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Yeah, I think if I'm going to continue casting I'm going to need to invest in some way to monitor temps. If for no other reason than to remove the guessing game.
I've complyely removed the cast iron skillet just to remove that from the equasion. I may invest in a brand new unseasoned one... or maybe just a flat iron. We'll see down the road.
I use an old circular saw blade on top of my hot plate.
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Yeah, I think if I'm going to continue casting I'm going to need to invest in some way to monitor temps. If for no other reason than to remove the guessing game.
I've complyely removed the cast iron skillet just to remove that from the equasion. I may invest in a brand new unseasoned one... or maybe just a flat iron. We'll see down the road.
I use an old circular saw blade on top of my hot plate.
Awesome idea... I happen to have one and I know exactly where it is. I was going to hang it as a ding dong target.
See that's why GTA is the greatest.
Thanks for that Eddie.
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Yeah, I think if I'm going to continue casting I'm going to need to invest in some way to monitor temps. If for no other reason than to remove the guessing game.
I've complyely removed the cast iron skillet just to remove that from the equasion. I may invest in a brand new unseasoned one... or maybe just a flat iron. We'll see down the road.
I use an old circular saw blade on top of my hot plate.
Awesome idea... I happen to have one and I know exactly where it is. I was going to hang it as a ding dong target.
See that's why GTA is the greatest.
Thanks for that Eddie.
I can't take credit for the idea but I'm happy to share. One of my buddies on the Reloader's Network tipped me off on using it.
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Yeah, I think if I'm going to continue casting I'm going to need to invest in some way to monitor temps. If for no other reason than to remove the guessing game.
I've complyely removed the cast iron skillet just to remove that from the equasion. I may invest in a brand new unseasoned one... or maybe just a flat iron. We'll see down the road.
I use an old circular saw blade on top of my hot plate.
Awesome idea... I happen to have one and I know exactly where it is. I was going to hang it as a ding dong target.
See that's why GTA is the greatest.
Thanks for that Eddie.
I can't take credit for the idea but I'm happy to share. One of my buddies on the Reloader's Network tipped me off on using it.
Well thank him for me and thank you for bringing it here.
Like I said, I knew exactly where that saw blade was and went and grabbed it. It's a nice thin one that will transfer the heat quickly. It had a red painted label on it so I took it to my wire brush grinder and took all that off.
I can't believe how dumb it was to put that seasoned cast iron skillet on there. All I thought about was the cast iron... I didn't even think about the oils cooked into it.
Live and learn I guess.
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Yeah, I think if I'm going to continue casting I'm going to need to invest in some way to monitor temps. If for no other reason than to remove the guessing game.
I've complyely removed the cast iron skillet just to remove that from the equasion. I may invest in a brand new unseasoned one... or maybe just a flat iron. We'll see down the road.
I use an old circular saw blade on top of my hot plate.
Awesome idea... I happen to have one and I know exactly where it is. I was going to hang it as a ding dong target.
See that's why GTA is the greatest.
Thanks for that Eddie.
I can't take credit for the idea but I'm happy to share. One of my buddies on the Reloader's Network tipped me off on using it.
Well thank him for me and thank you for bringing it here.
Like I said, I knew exactly where that saw blade was and went and grabbed it. It's a nice thin one that will transfer the heat quickly. It had a red painted label on it so I took it to my wire brush grinder and took all that off.
I can't believe how dumb it was to put that seasoned cast iron skillet on there. All I thought about was the cast iron... I didn't even think about the oils cooked into it.
Live and learn I guess.
Nobody got hurt and you learned something from it. I call that a good day. I've done much worse and lived to tell about it. We're all human.
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Yeah, I think if I'm going to continue casting I'm going to need to invest in some way to monitor temps. If for no other reason than to remove the guessing game.
I've complyely removed the cast iron skillet just to remove that from the equasion. I may invest in a brand new unseasoned one... or maybe just a flat iron. We'll see down the road.
I use an old circular saw blade on top of my hot plate.
Awesome idea... I happen to have one and I know exactly where it is. I was going to hang it as a ding dong target.
See that's why GTA is the greatest.
Thanks for that Eddie.
I can't take credit for the idea but I'm happy to share. One of my buddies on the Reloader's Network tipped me off on using it.
Well thank him for me and thank you for bringing it here.
Like I said, I knew exactly where that saw blade was and went and grabbed it. It's a nice thin one that will transfer the heat quickly. It had a red painted label on it so I took it to my wire brush grinder and took all that off.
I can't believe how dumb it was to put that seasoned cast iron skillet on there. All I thought about was the cast iron... I didn't even think about the oils cooked into it.
Live and learn I guess.
Nobody got hurt and you learned something from it. I call that a good day. I've done much worse and lived to tell about it. We're all human.
True enough.
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Don't feel bad. I ruined a 22 cal hunter mold when I was using an outdoor cooking rocket stove to melt my lead. I guess holding the mold in the exhaust flow of the stove overheated the mold.
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Yeah, I think if I'm going to continue casting I'm going to need to invest in some way to monitor temps. If for no other reason than to remove the guessing game.
I've complyely removed the cast iron skillet just to remove that from the equasion. I may invest in a brand new unseasoned one... or maybe just a flat iron. We'll see down the road.
I use an old circular saw blade on top of my hot plate.
That's a good idea! My issue with the hotplate is keeping the mold flat with the weight of the handle causing it to tilt. I improvise in various ways to remedy this. I don't have a real good fix yet.
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Yeah, I think if I'm going to continue casting I'm going to need to invest in some way to monitor temps. If for no other reason than to remove the guessing game.
I've complyely removed the cast iron skillet just to remove that from the equasion. I may invest in a brand new unseasoned one... or maybe just a flat iron. We'll see down the road.
I use an old circular saw blade on top of my hot plate.
That's a good idea! My issue with the hotplate is keeping the mold flat with the weight of the handle causing it to tilt. I improvise in various ways to remedy this. I don't have a real good fix yet.
If you can find a tin coffee or large bean can, cut a window in it close enough to the open end to balance the mold handles on. Flip it upside down and sit it on top of the hotplate and insert the molds through the window. Presto! You now have a mini mold oven.
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I have my sprue cutter nearest to my thumb and with the 2 cav brass mold I can cut the sprue with my thumb and catch it in my hand to drop it back in the pot. I lay the mold sprue cutter down on the hot plate to heat up and it balances well for me.
I only have one set of handles and plan to get another. Once I have 2 molds with handles I'll come up with some kind of cover to make an oven.
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I have my sprue cutter nearest to my thumb and with the 2 cav brass mold I can cut the sprue with my thumb and catch it in my hand to drop it back in the pot. I lay the mold sprue cutter down on the hot plate to heat up and it balances well for me.
I only have one set of handles and plan to get another. Once I have 2 molds with handles I'll come up with some kind of cover to make an oven.
By sprue cutter, do you mean some kind of mallet to strike the plate? I use a wooden mallet. I thought I saw you had some kind of soft blow hammer.
Yeah, I think if I'm going to continue casting I'm going to need to invest in some way to monitor temps. If for no other reason than to remove the guessing game.
I've complyely removed the cast iron skillet just to remove that from the equasion. I may invest in a brand new unseasoned one... or maybe just a flat iron. We'll see down the road.
I use an old circular saw blade on top of my hot plate.
That's a good idea! My issue with the hotplate is keeping the mold flat with the weight of the handle causing it to tilt. I improvise in various ways to remedy this. I don't have a real good fix yet.
If you can find a tin coffee or large bean can, cut a window in it close enough to the open end to balance the mold handles on. Flip it upside down and sit it on top of the hotplate and insert the molds through the window. Presto! You now have a mini mold oven.
Ed, when using a hot plate with HP/pellet molds, do you rest the pins against the hot plate? Can you post a picture of your can oven?
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No, by sprue cutter I mean the top plate of the mold that cuts the sprue off.
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No, by sprue cutter I mean the top plate of the mold that cuts the sprue off.
How do you cut the sprue with your thumb? I'm confused, but very interested. This sounds like a huge time saver vs switching between the ladle and mallet. If I'm holding the handles too close to the mold I do sometimes whack my fingers with the sprue plate when it comes around. A better method sounds great.
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Hard to describe... I'll post some pics tomorrow while I'm out in the Red Shed. I can only do it with the 2 cav mold. The sprue on the 4 cav is a bit too much to cut with my thumb.
There is a guy that does a video on NOE, can't remember his name but I do everything like he does.
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Most of my molds are 1 or 2 cavity and I can cut the sprue with my thumb on the sprue cutter once the mold warms up, the only time I have to tap the mold is when a cast is stubborn about releasing the mold. I have a pan for the sprue cuts and a pan for the pellets. It's one less move for me when dumping the cuts back into the pot.
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I have my sprue cutter nearest to my thumb and with the 2 cav brass mold I can cut the sprue with my thumb and catch it in my hand to drop it back in the pot. I lay the mold sprue cutter down on the hot plate to heat up and it balances well for me.
I only have one set of handles and plan to get another. Once I have 2 molds with handles I'll come up with some kind of cover to make an oven.
Bill, I was taught to save the sprues in a tin and add them all at once. I usually add them when the lead level dropped off and I'm ready to take a break. Adding them two at a time can mess up the temp and also introduce gunk in the molten lead. YMMV ???
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Maybe I should have gotten that wadcutter mold in two cavity instead...
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Maybe I should have gotten that wadcutter mold in two cavity instead...
I got one each just to be sure. You can always pour in just two cavities...
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Maybe I should have gotten that wadcutter mold in two cavity instead...
I got one each just to be sure. You can always pour in just two cavities...
Does the thumb trick work with just pouring two cavs? I'm trying to find said NOE video, but hard to search for it.
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Cast as cool as you can on pot temp without having spout sticking issues. From my experience, you'll probably find this eliminates a lot of issues like wings and such.
I find it to be mold material dependent. My aluminum molds like a cooler melt, but the brass mold wants it HOT. I get more hairs with a cooler melt. However, I'm casting outside, so my experience may not be relevant.
But it is relevant as we all cast in different environments. Like I cast just outside my shed door with a fan at my back. So knowing how you do it may help in some way.
All good points. My casting experience is only from casting in my shed with a fan drawing the ugly outside and me behind the fan so there is minimum wind hitting the pot. I am a fair-weather caster mostly but do cast during the winter months as well. I like getting all of my casting done before the heat hits. I cast using a 20lb Lee pot that is controlled by a PID controller that I built. I typically like casting at 735° while using some scrap wood as a makeshift enclosure around the pot. This allows me to still get a good flow out of the exposed gravity spout. I used to cast much hotter but that caused me more issues like shrinkage and fins/wings to form on the cast. I suppose I could cast at 750° and could eliminate the enclosure but I think I get the best results at 735°. Having the PID allows me to play around with different temperature to find, at least what I consider, the sweet spot for my setup.
My next casting upgrade will be a RCBS easy melt furnace.
IIRC, that one has a built-in PID controller. That one was a little too rich for me when just getting started with everything else I wanted to get i.e., molds, lead, sizing equipment, etc. I built my PID later on which cost around $100. If my Lee pot goes bad, I still have a working PID controller.
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Cast as cool as you can on pot temp without having spout sticking issues. From my experience, you'll probably find this eliminates a lot of issues like wings and such.
I find it to be mold material dependent. My aluminum molds like a cooler melt, but the brass mold wants it HOT. I get more hairs with a cooler melt. However, I'm casting outside, so my experience may not be relevant.
But it is relevant as we all cast in different environments. Like I cast just outside my shed door with a fan at my back. So knowing how you do it may help in some way.
All good points. My casting experience is only from casting in my shed with a fan drawing the ugly outside and me behind the fan so there is minimum wind hitting the pot. I am a fair-weather caster mostly but do cast during the winter months as well. I like getting all of my casting done before the heat hits. I cast using a 20lb Lee pot that is controlled by a PID controller that I built. I typically like casting at 735° while using some scrap wood as a makeshift enclosure around the pot. This allows me to still get a good flow out of the exposed gravity spout. I used to cast much hotter but that caused me more issues like shrinkage and fins/wings to form on the cast. I suppose I could cast at 750° and could eliminate the enclosure but I think I get the best results at 735°. Having the PID allows me to play around with different temperature to find, at least what I consider, the sweet spot for my setup.
My next casting upgrade will be a RCBS easy melt furnace.
IIRC, that one has a built-in PID controller. That one was a little too rich for me when just getting started with everything else I wanted to get i.e., molds, lead, sizing equipment, etc. I built my PID later on which cost around $100. If my Lee pot goes bad, I still have a working PID controller.
It does have the PID controller and isnt that much more than the Lee 20 lb (not bottom pour).
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Most likely Full Lead Tacos videos , here is a lost episode tips and tricks for casting hollowpoints, or pellets for that matter.
https://www.thereloadersnetwork.com/2019/09/13/hollow-point-bullet-casting-tips-and-tricks/ (https://www.thereloadersnetwork.com/2019/09/13/hollow-point-bullet-casting-tips-and-tricks/)
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As I said.. I can only cut and add the two cav brass mold. And as we know, brass mold like things hotter and the sprue is smaller from a 2 cav than from a 4 cav. So with things hotter the 2 cav sprue melt much quicker. With the 4 cav mold I collect the sprues in a separate pan than the pellets and add them when I take breaks.
I typically cast 100 - 200 then put them in the tumbler. The previous tumbler load comes out and gets inspected and culled. Then it's back to another pour. Rinse and repeat. I'll do this for an hour or so then take a longer break... check the GTA, run to the store, eat lunch or just shoot some.
Right now I'm just trying to refine my casting process and build an inventory. That mess with the cast iron skillet set me back a bit. I had to dump alot of pellets back in the pot and clean things up.
The title of this thread tells the story... I knew it was going to be a learning process. I've always been the kind of guy that wants to be told the basics then learn from my mistakes as I go.
Found the video.... It's Ken Weidner
https://youtu.be/17HJBfyBjbM
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I was in error... he opens his mold with the sprue plate at the top. I have mine at the bottom. The handle gives me a bit more leverage.
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I have my sprue cutter nearest to my thumb and with the 2 cav brass mold I can cut the sprue with my thumb and catch it in my hand to drop it back in the pot. I lay the mold sprue cutter down on the hot plate to heat up and it balances well for me.
I only have one set of handles and plan to get another. Once I have 2 molds with handles I'll come up with some kind of cover to make an oven.
By sprue cutter, do you mean some kind of mallet to strike the plate? I use a wooden mallet. I thought I saw you had some kind of soft blow hammer.
Yeah, I think if I'm going to continue casting I'm going to need to invest in some way to monitor temps. If for no other reason than to remove the guessing game.
I've complyely removed the cast iron skillet just to remove that from the equasion. I may invest in a brand new unseasoned one... or maybe just a flat iron. We'll see down the road.
I use an old circular saw blade on top of my hot plate.
That's a good idea! My issue with the hotplate is keeping the mold flat with the weight of the handle causing it to tilt. I improvise in various ways to remedy this. I don't have a real good fix yet.
If you can find a tin coffee or large bean can, cut a window in it close enough to the open end to balance the mold handles on. Flip it upside down and sit it on top of the hotplate and insert the molds through the window. Presto! You now have a mini mold oven.
Ed, when using a hot plate with HP/pellet molds, do you rest the pins against the hot plate? Can you post a picture of your can oven?
I flip my HP molds so that the sprue plate is against the saw blade and that keep things level. I don't have a picture of mine but it's like this except my window is about an inch or so above the lip of the can. This gives a support point for the handles.
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I'm going to make a hood for my hot plate like that.. I'm going to bump it up a notch and put a temp gauge in it.
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As promised, a few pics.
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The vise on the pot....
This serves as a guide for sliding the mold back as I pour. It's also adjustable from side to side for future mold size changes. For now both my molds fit it's current adjustment.
The sprue plate...
This is what I meant about the plate being reversed. This is the position of the plate if an optional sprue plate handle is used. When the plate is opened it swings forward and out of the way for dropping pellets. I keep the plate just snug enough so it can't flop around.
Other things to note...
I can use my thumb to cut the sprue from my 2 cav brass mold. The 4 cav (as seen in the picture) is harder to cut so I use the small lead hammer also seen in the picture to tap it open.
In the picture of the pot you can see a yellow object to the right. The is a fiber glass coated dowel. The rubber boot adds weight. I position my handles on the mold so the head of the hinge bolts faces up when the mold is turned over to drop the pellets. If pellets don't drop I use this dowel to tap on the bolt head and release the pellets. I NEVER hit the mold with anything.
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Still to come.... the mold oven.
I think I've mentioned several times that I like repurposing... I was searching the property for a coffee can or something to use. I happened to look up in the barn and saw a small porcelain coated cook pot... some would call it a 'chamber pot'. This is a smaller one that I think it's just the right diameter to fit over the burner and saw blade.
I also spotted and old bbq grill cover that had a temp gauge in it that went to 700f.
Looks like I have my project for this morning.
Pics to follow.
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"Danger Will Robinson".
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I try to keep that between 350 and 375.
Heck, I could probably cook lunch in it. Frozen pot pies anyone?
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Bill
By any chance do you have a clamp on volt meter?
Some of them will take a plug in temp probe, I know my Sears model does,
I just got a plug in long temp probe and that is what I use, I can check my molds and lead
all with the same item.
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-K-Type-Thermocouple-TC-05-Insertion/dp/B00RKISLOW (https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-K-Type-Thermocouple-TC-05-Insertion/dp/B00RKISLOW)
HtH's,
Don
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Bill
By any chance do you have a clamp on volt meter?
Some of them will take a plug in temp probe, I know my Sears model does,
I just got a plug in long temp probe and that is what I use, I can check my molds and lead
all with the same item.
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-K-Type-Thermocouple-TC-05-Insertion/dp/B00RKISLOW (https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-K-Type-Thermocouple-TC-05-Insertion/dp/B00RKISLOW)
HtH's,
Don
Another good suggestion from the group...
When my BIL passed my Sister told me to come clean out his garage and take what I wanted. I brought an 6 x 12 enclosed v nose trailer full home. I'm still finding things in the many tool boxes and cabinets, I know I've seen 3 or 4 multi testers in that stuff... I'll have to go look.. one of them may even have the probe. thanks Don.
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I've been getting satisfactory results without a mold oven, but now I need to make one. I think my neighbor has loads of the old "Chock full of nuts" coffee cans.
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Tru dat DJ...
My reason was to eliminate any cause for problems. If something goes afoul I want to know instead of guessing.
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Tru dat DJ...
My reason was to eliminate any cause for problems. If something goes afoul I want to know instead of guessing.
I think a mold oven will take me from satisfactory to satisfying. It is frustrating when I have to throw so many culls back into the pot because my mold got cold will refilling the melt, even with a hot plate.
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Tru dat DJ...
My reason was to eliminate any cause for problems. If something goes afoul I want to know instead of guessing.
I think a mold oven will take me from satisfactory to satisfying. It is frustrating when I have to throw so many culls back into the pot because my mold got cold will refilling the melt, even with a hot plate.
Yep, I want to know when my pot is ready and when my mold is ready. If I get bad results I can look elsewhere for the reason.
Plus, I can try different measured settings to see how outcome is affected.
Like I said before... show me how to do it and I'll make it my own.
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Bill
By any chance do you have a clamp on volt meter?
Some of them will take a plug in temp probe, I know my Sears model does,
I just got a plug in long temp probe and that is what I use, I can check my molds and lead
all with the same item.
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-K-Type-Thermocouple-TC-05-Insertion/dp/B00RKISLOW (https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-K-Type-Thermocouple-TC-05-Insertion/dp/B00RKISLOW)
HtH's,
Don
Another good suggestion from the group...
When my BIL passed my Sister told me to come clean out his garage and take what I wanted. I brought an 6 x 12 enclosed v nose trailer full home. I'm still finding things in the many tool boxes and cabinets, I know I've seen 3 or 4 multi testers in that stuff... I'll have to go look.. one of them may even have the probe. thanks Don.
Nope, nope and nope.. I found 3 of them, two of which were in the original boxes. All 3 were voltage and ohm only.
I'll find something in my travels... I always do.
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Bill, you probably already know this, but you can flip the sprue plate around to the opposite end so that you can knock it open from the open end instead the cramped handle end. You can also install the handle from the other end if that works better for you. I say this because I had to move mine around from OEM because I am a lefty.
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Hmm the mold oven reminds me of Bender ;D 8)
(https://i.ytimg.com/vi/bEEZM9u1eeE/hqdefault.jpg)
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Kieth, I actually set my mold set my molds up this way. This is how I'm most comfortable.
James, I knew I had seen that robot before but I couldn't remember where.
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Nice tin of .25 cal pellets... one of about 10 right now. Working on .22 as I type.
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Nice tin of .25 cal pellets... one of about 10 right now. Working on .22 as I type.
I think it is neat that you have guns that will shoot accurately with the short pins! This makes me want to try the different pins in my .22 WC mold when it gets here. My 22 cal rifle can't make use of the longer pins in the 22 cal hunter mold, so I never tried them.
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After tumbling and culling probably 400 .22 I weighed 3 different groups of 10 pellets.
I got 197.xx for the low and 205.xx for the high. Then I weighed 40 pellets and got 797.xx.
I would consider that pretty acceptable.
Oh and BTW... between rounds of casting I took the Beeman 1358 to the bench. 1/2" 35yd groups of 5 shots. So far 4 of the .22 PCP guns have passed muster with the cast pellets and the Urban also loving the HP slugs from a mold I have here on loan. But.. I think I still want to find a .22 mold in the 14 - 16 range for some of my other platform .22 guns that are less tunable.
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Nice tin of .25 cal pellets... one of about 10 right now. Working on .22 as I type.
I think it is neat that you have guns that will shoot accurately with the short pins! This makes me want to try the different pins in my .22 WC mold when it gets here. My 22 cal rifle can't make use of the longer pins in the 22 cal hunter mold, so I never tried them.
I apologize if I've misled you DJ.. it's been a whirlwind experience. I ended up going back to the longer pin (lighter pellet) because after setting the power of both Sentrys down to 3 they both shoot those the best. The Avenger don't really care.
But as we all know, even like guns can shoot different pellets better. I suggest you give all 3 sets a fair shake as I have.
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After tumbling and culling probably 400 .22 I weighed 3 different groups of 10 pellets.
I got 197.xx for the low and 205.xx for the high. Then I weighed 40 pellets and got 797.xx.
I would consider that pretty acceptable.
Oh and BTW... between rounds of casting I took the Beeman 1358 to the bench. 1/2" 35yd groups of 5 shots. So far 4 of the .22 PCP guns have passed muster with the cast pellets and the Urban also loving the HP slugs from a mold I have here on loan. But.. I think I still want to find a .22 mold in the 14 - 16 range for some of my other platform .22 guns that are less tunable.
The NOE 217-17-WC drops at 16.5 grain, but is a wadcutter. NOE is the only game in town for pellet molds, so if they don't have it, you will probably have to find someone who will make a mold for you.
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After tumbling and culling probably 400 .22 I weighed 3 different groups of 10 pellets.
I got 197.xx for the low and 205.xx for the high. Then I weighed 40 pellets and got 797.xx.
I would consider that pretty acceptable.
Oh and BTW... between rounds of casting I took the Beeman 1358 to the bench. 1/2" 35yd groups of 5 shots. So far 4 of the .22 PCP guns have passed muster with the cast pellets and the Urban also loving the HP slugs from a mold I have here on loan. But.. I think I still want to find a .22 mold in the 14 - 16 range for some of my other platform .22 guns that are less tunable.
The NOE 217-17-WC drops at 16.5 grain, but is a wadcutter. NOE is the only game in town for pellet molds, so if they don't have it, you will probably have to find someone who will make a mold for you.
Yes but with so many people shooting the 14.3 and 15.x you would think, as home casting is gaining popularity, that it's just a matter of time before there is enough demand. Oh and let's not forget how fast the cost of pellets and shipping is rising. That's right there is a big part of my motivation. One of the main reasons for the increased interest in airguns was the rising cost of PB ammo.
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After tumbling and culling probably 400 .22 I weighed 3 different groups of 10 pellets.
I got 197.xx for the low and 205.xx for the high. Then I weighed 40 pellets and got 797.xx.
I would consider that pretty acceptable.
Oh and BTW... between rounds of casting I took the Beeman 1358 to the bench. 1/2" 35yd groups of 5 shots. So far 4 of the .22 PCP guns have passed muster with the cast pellets and the Urban also loving the HP slugs from a mold I have here on loan. But.. I think I still want to find a .22 mold in the 14 - 16 range for some of my other platform .22 guns that are less tunable.
The NOE 217-17-WC drops at 16.5 grain, but is a wadcutter. NOE is the only game in town for pellet molds, so if they don't have it, you will probably have to find someone who will make a mold for you.
Yes but with so many people shooting the 14.3 and 15.x you would think, as home casting is gaining popularity, that it's just a matter of time before there is enough demand. Oh and let's not forget how fast the cost of pellets and shipping is rising. That's right there is a big part of my motivation. One of the main reasons for the increased interest in airguns was the rising cost of PB ammo.
I think the difficulty in making a smaller weight pellet mold is the cherry required to cut the mold. There's a guy local to me who wants to make custom molds, but hasn't quite gotten the tooling set up yet. I'm sure NOE would have made lighter molds if they had the ability, and I recall one of RSterne's posts mentioning that there is a lack of machining capability for such small pellet molds. Aside from the NOE molds all the pellets currently available for small bores are swaged in a two step forming process. Perhaps Corbin or NOE will make dies for DIY swaged pellets.
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May be hopeless then.
Maybe I'll just have an airgun yardsale. :o
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May be hopeless then.
Maybe I'll just have an airgun yardsale. :o
Did you end up getting a loaner WC mold? If not, I can send you some test pellets once mine is broken in. Might work out for your less powerful 22 cal stuff since they like to go slower anyway.
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May be hopeless then.
Maybe I'll just have an airgun yardsale. :o
Did you end up getting a loaner WC mold? If not, I can send you some test pellets once mine is broken in. Might work out for your less powerful 22 cal stuff since they like to go slower anyway.
Yes, I have the loaner.. no good for me. I've had samples from other folks in the past as well.
It's all good, I went into this with the intentions of downsizing.
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A large portion of my lower powered guns were either purchased or converted to .177. .177 pellets can be found at good cost per shot prices.
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Dropped and tumbled another 500 or so of the .22 20gr today. I figure I'm culling about 20%.
The mold oven does a great job at giving me a constant starting temp. I'm not getting near the flash I was getting.
That 2 out brass mold is alot slower than the 4 drop .25 mold.
I think the plan for tomorrow is to continue testing some of my .22 guns. It's warm enough out to even test the couple C02 .22 guns.
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Looks like Willie G. Stubbs is gonna like my cast 20gr FN. That's great news.
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Looks like Willie G. Stubbs is gonna like my cast 20gr FN. That's great news.
Those 20 grainers are awesome pellets. Wayne has taught me to not worry about the weight and just try pellets in guns I never thought of.
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Yessir... I've got to the point that I don't weigh those at all anymore. I tumble them and inspect them. If they don't have any visable defects they go in the container.
I was weighing every 10th one or so... they were so close that I just stopped.
Just for giggles I just weighed 20 pellets... all came in between 19.78 and 20.40.
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I had to make a beer and gas run after breakfast this morning and stopped at one of the second hand stores we have here in town. I picked one of these up to be used for an ingot mold... $5.
Looks like is not been seasoned with oil for a long time so it should be good to go. I'll bake it off a couple times to be sure. If I see oils come out of it I'll give it a good Dawn soaking.
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Trial run....
Melted down some #8 shot into happy little corn on the cob ingots.
Lots of dross in that stuff... I used sawdust to spoon it out.
Perfect for just slipping into the pot when needed.
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Let us know how the 8 shot works casting pellets. I've got about 15# of 7.5 or 8 shot in the airgun she'd.
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I melted it hot then drossed it with sawdust.. I pulled alot of stuff off the top.
If I'm honest, I don't know anything about what % pure led it is and frankly, I don't care. If I weigh 10 pellets and they come in at 19.75 to 20.50 I'm a happy boy.
I'll leave all that other stuff to y'all. ;D
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You are really cranking out these pellets! I need to get a bigger lead pot so I can increase my pace.
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You are really cranking out these pellets! I need to get a bigger lead pot so I can increase my pace.
Not really.. I melt down/smelt/dross stuff in a pan on the hot plate then I pour the ingots to add to the 10# LEE bottom pour pot. I add sawdust again when I put ingots in.
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Had me a little corn roast this morning. I still have plenty more to go.
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Bill, you sure are motivating me to cast up a few hundred pellets this weekend. Maybe I can figure out some sort of mold oven as well.
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Pretty basic... the discount stores have hot plates for around $15 and any second hand store would have a suitable pot. Even aluminum would work. A circular saw blade can be scrounged. I've found that setting the temp just past medium heat works well. I rest the molds in there sprue plate down and slightly open.
Once you get casting they stay hot enough. I only use the oven to get them up to temp and keep them up during breaks. I'm eventually going to get another set of handles so I can cast 2 calibers in one session.
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Today I didn't run the pot at all. I used the hot plate to make the ingots. I plan to continue that tomorrow.
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I have a flat top ( don't need the saw blade) hot plate that I use for my pressure cooker. I do normally use it, but it doesn't help much being outside. A cover of any kind will be beneficial.
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I have a flat top ( don't need the saw blade) hot plate that I use for my pressure cooker. I do normally use it, but it doesn't help much being outside. A cover of any kind will be beneficial.
Agreed
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If I were a squirrel I sure would be hungry for some yummy Corn Lead ;D
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Dropped a couple hundred .22 wadcutters this morning. Got them in the tumbler right now. Probably do a batch of .22 HP slugs next.
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Regroup...
That batch came out 50% too much flash on the skirts. Pretty sure it's from having the pot too hot for the brass mold. So I turned the heat down and added all the sprues. I'll let that melt down and give it another go after breakfast.
Got a good reminder why I don't order from China... been waiting a week for the temp gauge and tracking says it's not even in Country yet.
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Boy you sure do spend a lot of time casting. You sure you don't have a casting couch out in the red shed for them starlets? 💞💞💞
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Boy you sure do spend a lot of time casting. You sure you don't have a casting couch out in the red shed for them starlets? 💞💞💞
Just trying to learn.. alot of it is trial and error. I just got the ok from the finance dept. to take a ride to the big city and look for temp gauges. She didn't put a price limit on me either... ;)
Truth be told, I think he wants me out of the house so she can clean and do laundry. She told me to close the gate when I go so that tells me she's gonna kick the dogs out too.
I also have some molds here on loan and I need to get done with them so I can return them. But 50% culling is not good for me... I need to figure out why.
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Pressure pour casting will fix you right up. So no starlets?😞😞
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Boy you sure do spend a lot of time casting. You sure you don't have a casting couch out in the red shed for them starlets? 💞💞💞
Just trying to learn.. alot of it is trial and error. I just got the ok from the finance dept. to take a ride to the big city and look for temp gauges. She didn't put a price limit on me either... ;)
Truth be told, I think he wants me out of the house so she can clean and do laundry. She told me to close the gate when I go so that tells me she's gonna kick the dogs out too.
I also have some molds here on loan and I need to get done with them so I can return them. But 50% culling is not good for me... I need to figure out why.
I would check the pins first, they are easy to eliminate as a potential issue. Then try changing the melt temp until they start dropping nicer.
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Yeah, Lowes had the new temp gauge for the oven. It registers up to 650f. It's a replacement gauge for a Char Broil BBQ grill.
The oven only runs between 250 and 300 ambient. I'm sure the mold is getting hotter because it's in direct contact with the saw blade. I also open it slightly so the pins get the heat.
I don't want to mess with the pin adjustment because this one is not my mold. I suppose I have to wait for the pot gauge to get here off of the slow boat. Nobody in town had a 1000f stick gauge.
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Lyman makes a good casting thermometer
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Yeah, I know... I was being cheap.
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I got the thermometer from NOE that I use in the pot for lead temperature. I use a K wire thermocouple for the mold.
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I got the thermometer from NOE that I use in the pot for lead temperature. I use a K wire thermocouple for the mold.
I think I'll be all set with thermometers as soon as the China boat arrives.
The wadcutter mold will be sorted. I just found out I'm the first to use it. I need to scrub and bake it.
I'll do that in the morning. I went through the same thing last week with other molds and the scrubbing and heat cycle fixed them.
The boat tail and slug mold work just fine.
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I got the thermometer from NOE that I use in the pot for lead temperature. I use a K wire thermocouple for the mold.
I think I'll be all set with thermometers as soon as the China boat arrives.
The wadcutter mold will be sorted. I just found out I'm the first to use it. I need to scrub and bake it.
I'll do that in the morning. I went through the same thing last week with other molds and the scrubbing and heat cycle fixed them.
The boat tail and slug mold work just fine.
In my limited sample pool of three pellet molds and three slug molds I find that slug molds are much easier to cast.
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I got the thermometer from NOE that I use in the pot for lead temperature. I use a K wire thermocouple for the mold.
I think I'll be all set with thermometers as soon as the China boat arrives.
The wadcutter mold will be sorted. I just found out I'm the first to use it. I need to scrub and bake it.
I'll do that in the morning. I went through the same thing last week with other molds and the scrubbing and heat cycle fixed them.
The boat tail and slug mold work just fine.
In my limited sample pool of three pellet molds and three slug molds I find that slug molds are much easier to cast.
In my limited experience I would have to agree.
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Nasty.....
Betty Lou wanted to run to the store this morning and I thought it would be a good opportunity to pick up my personal small bottle of Dawn and a couple tooth brushes for cleaning molds in the Red Shed. I have a water faucet, a pan and a hot plate. Perfect items to keep me out of her kitchen and out of her aim... :o
I have a makeshift sink near the water faucet that drains into a pail. When the pail is full I give a heave ho out the door. Well that needs to change... I need to dump it everytime I use it.
Why? Well because this morning I found 2 rats bloated and floating in it. And when I took it out to dump it the smell came in like the fog in that movie "Myst".
I opened all doors and windows and turned on the fans. It took more than and hour to air out the Red Shed.
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Nasty.....
Betty Lou wanted to run to the store this morning and I thought it would be a good opportunity to pick up my personal small bottle of Dawn and a couple tooth brushes for cleaning molds in the Red Shed. I have a water faucet, a pan and a hot plate. Perfect items to keep me out of her kitchen and out of her aim... :o
I have a makeshift sink near the water faucet that drains into a pail. When the pail is full I give a heave ho out the door. Well that needs to change... I need to dump it everytime I use it.
Why? Well because this morning I found 2 rats bloated and floating in it. And when I took it out to dump it the smell came in like the fog in that movie "Myst".
I opened all doors and windows and turned on the fans. It took more than and hour to air out the Red Shed.
I've had that happen as well, but with buckets stored outside. One was actually a bucket I use just for drowning live trapped rats.
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Betty Lou once killed a snake while I was at work. She put it in a bucket with a loose lid on it to show it to me when I got home and forgot about it. That thing got real ripe here in the southern heat before we discovered the source. The buzzards would hang out in the trees on the property and drive Rambo crazy.
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Morning...
Well, Casting Corner is fired back up this morning... USPS is scheduled to deliver the temporary temp gauge. I say temporary because I'll most likely end up with the Lyman unit or a PID.
I need to get my head around these temps and control them I honestly don't have any idea what temps I'm running the lead at.
I fashioned a make shift bracket for the gauge out of plumbing strap that will fasten on top of the pot and the gauge can hang down in the lead. Once I learn the reostat settings I can just use the gauge periodically. But for right now it's just a guessing game.
I think I'll also find some unsulation to put a layer around the mold oven. I'm losing too much head and the mold is barely coming up to 250 - 275. We had some fiber glass welding blankets went I was in tool and die. Once you heated your work up in the oven you would put the blanket over the detail and only expose the area you were working on. One of those would be great to make a sock for the oven cover. A flap could be left to cover the mold opening. I think I'll look for something next run to the big city.
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Update...
The temp gauge arrived. Like I said, I fashioned a bracket for the top of the pot out of plumber's strap and drilled the center hole for the gauge probe to dip down into the lead. The probe hangs about 2" down into the lead. That's a good amount to pour between breaks when I add the sprues back to the pot.
While the pot heats back up I do a ruff culling to the pellets before putting them in the tumble.. probably 100 at a time. Those pellets tumble until the pot is heated and the next 100 pellets are ready to goes. The pellets coming out of the tumbler get a final culling.
Anyways... I was running some 217 - 20 - FN from the 2 drop brass mold this morning and I had the rheostat on the pot set at just over 5. When I dropped the gauge in it went straight to 725ish f. So I backed it off and at 4.5 it runs at 650 - 675.
I dropped about 50 or so pellets at that temp and they look great.
So tell me... what are y'all doing?
How about some info such as the following....
Equipment.. what pot are you using? Is it bottom pour or a dip pot?
Pellets.. Size, type.
Mold... 2, 4, or 6 cav. Brass or aluminum.
Running temp..
Do you preheat your mold? If so, what temp?
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A few of my pellets had some whiskers today. Inspired by Bill I put them all into an empty Crosman tin and gently tumbled them. Problem solved. Just waiting for my WC mold to heat cycle a few times before I start casting with it. I hope this thread keeps going. It's been a wealth of knowledge for another fellow novice caster.
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Bill, I just go with it as far as temps go, the lee 10# is set between 650 and 700 on the pot's temperature dial. I haven't use the 20# yet. Both pots are bottom pour which makes it easy to speed up the process, my hands can only do so much in a few hours. All my molds are 1 or 2 cavity aluminum, I do have one some that are iron. Mold sizes range from .22 to .510. As for preheating the mold, I just set it on top of the pot. I stayed with aluminum because it was lighter to handle when casting. I get better results with fill and heat from 2 cavity molds than I would with 4 or more cavity. I have less deformities and flashing.
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DJ..
I think it will... at least I'll keep posting my usual antics and displays of less than knowledgeable knowledge. :o
I also plan to put whatever input we get to that last post into a group and put it on one spot.
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Thanks Kris...
My 10# bottom pour LEE pot don't have a "temp" setting. It has a rheostat the adjusts from 0 to 8. 4.5 seems to be the sweet spot for running between 650 and 700.
I have read that brass molds like to run a little hotter. That one guy that puts the videos on NOE runs his brass mold pours at 800 but I'm not sure what size bullet he was dropping and if size even matters... when pouring lead, that is. :o ;D
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Thanks Kris...
My 10# bottom pour LEE pot don't have a "temp" setting. It has a rheostat the adjusts from 0 to 8. 4.5 seems to be the sweet spot for running between 650 and 700.
I have read that brass molds like to run a little hotter. That one guy that puts the videos on NOE runs his brass mold pours at 800 but I'm not sure what size bullet he was dropping and if size even matters... when pouring lead, that is. :o ;D
Mine wants to run hot as well. The hotter the better it seems.
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Morning..
I got an early start this morning. Fired everything up then came back in for a hot shower and coffee.
When a got back out everything was up to temp. I poured another 50 round session then added the sprues and an ear of corn to the pot... I left it low yesterday.
I'm gonna check the local hardware and Cash n Carry today for a welding blanket or some type of insulation to trap more heat in the mold oven. It tops out at 250f right now and I want the mold hotter at startup. If that don't work I'll look at other mold heating options.
The bracket and gauge don't leave the 'mold on top of the pot' option open.
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I wonder if an old oven mit would work?
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I use a cheap toaster oven for my mold.. I oy make slugs..nl
20lb bottom pour with PID, casting 67 gr Noe BBT at 780 degrees with pure lead..
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Thanks Ray...
do you run the hotter temps because of the size slug you are casting?
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I wonder if an old oven mit would work?
I just ordered some fiberglass ceramic infused fire resistant insulation. Good for up to 2400f. I bought 2 at 12"x24"x.5 thick. $20 delivered.
The plan is to wrap the oven cover (including the top) and leave a flap for the opening.
We'll know how it works in a week. ;)
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All I want to do is bump that oven temp up another 100*. I'm sure by insulating the cover (wrap the outside) and cover that opening in the front I can even turn the heat down and get there. Right now I'm only getting 250ish.
I know, many of you just sit the mold on top of the pot.... I can't do that because the gauge is there.
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Bill
You are using the can over the mold trick sitting on the hot plate, Aren't you?
Tia,
Don
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Bill
You are using the can over the mold trick sitting on the hot plate, Aren't you?
Tia,
Don
Yeah Don.
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Just received a large tin of sample pellets from another member.
The purpose was to give some of my other .22 guns an option.
I have the 217- 20- RF 2 cav Hunter Brass mold and not all my guns shoot that pellet well.
Questionable accuracy was the result of Betty Lou's WSMR (modded Maximus), my Fortitude and the FD-PCP.
Ron sent me a sample of these 217 - 24 - RF 2 cav Magnum Brass mold pellets and they are beautiful.
First up was the FD-PCP because it was handy in the RED Shed gun cabinet. I got a 10 round group in 1/2" at 25yds.
Next was Betty Lou's WSMR... this was the biggie because I have sworn to sell the guns that won't shoot my cast pellets well... did I mention that this is Betty Lou's gun? :o
I topped the gun off with the GX CS3 and loaded 5 pellets into the 10 rd mag. I wiped the beads of sweat from my brow and let er rip.
Whew !! I can breathe now !!
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That is virtually the same result I got with the FD-PCP... another gun I would regret selling.
One gun to go... my Fortitude.
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I am glad that they are working for you! ;D
I told you not to start culling any of your rifles until you tried them.
I hope I sent enough for now.
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The Urban and the Beeman 1358 shoot the 217 20 RF Hunters well.. those are a couple other guns that we will keep.
There are a few others that I still need to test.
Again... the goal is to cull the .22 and .25 arsenal to guns that only shoot my cast pellets.
As for .177 and .20, I will continue to purchase these pellets until cost and availability begins to wain. If and when that happens the will be on the chopping block.
For 10 years I have been nads to the wall on airgunning. Buying, trading and hoarding everything I could get me hands on without mortgaging the farm... admittedly, I came close a time or 2.. :o
Since retirement, we've slowed our roll... alot and we have decided that we really don't need all this stuff. We have our favorites and we have vintage and sentimental guns that make up the decor in the bar/mancave. And then we have all these other guns. Those are the ones that will culled. I would like to have a second AV Avenger .25 for Betty Lou and that culling will hopefully fund one of those.
The problem is, the cost of shipping has gone stupid. I don't plan to give 100 guns away. So we'll just take this slow and see what happens.
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I am glad that they are working for you! ;D
I told you not to start culling any of your rifles until you tried them.
I hope I sent enough for now.
Yes sir... more than enough. And I appreciate it. There are a few guns that I would have regretted selling and this option helps me avoid that.
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Yes. that and the hp...
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I learned that oiling the pins does not help anything, and just seems to make things worse.
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Get 2000 grit paper and polish them and try smoking them with a lighter..
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Nope... matter of fact, new molds show be washed in hot water and Dawn. Scrub with a tooth brush to remove all oils and cooling fluids from milling.
I learned the hard way by using a seasoned cast iron skillet on the hot plate to heat up my molds... I had to scrub the dog snot out of my molds to clean them.
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I heat cycled it but forgot to wash it in my excitement. The oil on the pins made a thick film and the mold wasn't closing tightly.
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I heat cycled it but forgot to wash it in my excitement. The oil on the pins made a thick film and the mold wasn't closing tightly.
Yep, and you'll get wrinkled pellets. no Bueno.
Pellets that smell like bacon don't attract game... that's just an old wive's tail... ;)
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I had to scrub the dog snot out of my molds to clean them.
Shouldn'ta let Rambo and Bossy sniff them that soon.
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I had to scrub the dog snot out of my molds to clean them.
Shouldn'ta let Rambo and Bossy sniff them that soon.
They sniff everything... just in case it's food.
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Tried the 217 24 RF samples in the Beeman 1358 even though it shoots my 217 20 RF just fine.
Same results... these pellets can keel.
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Now you understand why I check for the release of the 4 cavity mold DAILY!
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Now you understand why I check for the release of the 4 cavity mold DAILY!
LOL.... I'm checking for you too.... ;D
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Al says they are in the works and it should be 2 - 2 1/2 weeks.
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Al says they are in the works and it should be 2 - 2 1/2 weeks.
Hehehe, I called about a month ago and was told it should be a month, maybe 1.5 months, so it seems that he is right on schedule. 😃😃
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I think it's awesome when you call the posted phone number and the owner answers. Not many like that anymore.
Most of them hide behind voice recorders and secretaries reading from scripts.
I also asked if there was any chance of a 250 24 RF... he said nothing in the works right now. It's all good, I'm gonna do more testing with the short pins in the 27. I think I can bump the power and push them faster in the Sentrys.
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Knock it off, I really don't need another .22 cal mold 🤣😂 Seriously though, my next mold will probably be the new 251-49 and then a 177 mold if those ever come out.
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I have enough problems pouring .22 I wouldn't even try .177.
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Bill I wanted to ask you how your avenger liked the .25 27 grain ones.
I am pondering getting a .25 avenger, but it it would be better to wait until the magnum mold is available, my pocket book, and wife would probably be happier. 🤣
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Ron, my .25 Avenger shoots pretty much anything I feed it well.
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Bill I wanted to ask you how your avenger liked the .25 27 grain ones.
I am pondering getting a .25 avenger, but it it would be better to wait until the magnum mold is available, my pocket book, and wife would probably be happier. 🤣
The.25 mag mold is the 1 I'm waiting for.
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"Testing" means just that... testing to see what may work and what may not.
So today before I closed up the Red Shed for the day I took an empty pellet tin and 2 pieces of the fitted foam that comes in them and put several drops of Balistol on them and worked it into them really well.
Then I added enough of my cast 250 - 27 long pin pellets to fill 3 mags for the Sentry. I gently swirled the pellets for several minutes in the tin between the foam.
Tomorrow I will begin with a fresh target and shoot 3 mags with no lube before any lube gets in the barrel, then 3 mags lubed.
If this is a total failure, the Sentry barrel comes off the gun very easily for cleaning. Alcohol should remove any residue.
If the results are favorable, I may add a few drops to my tumbler process. Maybe even toss a lightly lubed foam in the tumbler with the pellets. If that don't work out well, the drum can be cleaned with hot water and Dawn.
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"Testing" means just that... testing to see what may work and what may not.
So today before I closed up the Red Shed for the day I took an empty pellet tin and 2 pieces of the fitted foam that comes in them and put several drops of Balistol on them and worked it into them really well.
Then I added enough of my cast 250 - 27 long pin pellets to fill 3 mags for the Sentry. I gently swirled the pellets for several minutes in the tin between the foam.
Tomorrow I will begin with a fresh target and shoot 3 mags with no lube before any lube gets in the barrel, then 3 mags lubed.
If this is a total failure, the Sentry barrel comes off the gun very easily for cleaning. Alcohol should remove any residue.
If the results are favorable, I may add a few drops to my tumbler process. Maybe even toss a lightly lubed foam in the tumbler with the pellets. If that don't work out well, the drum can be cleaned with hot water and Dawn.
I do a similar lube routine with a foam lined tin, but I use silicone oil. It works, but the tumbler sounds even better. I may have to invest in one.
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After thinking about lubing pellets overnight I've decided not to.
Obviously I am new to the game of casting and it looks like I may be on a steep learning curve. Much of that comes from my learning process.... I tend not to follow directions well and I need to see the good and the bad for myself through trial and error. Anyways, my plan is to capture and recast as many of my pellets as possible. That said, my mind says the I don't want lube of any kind on them.
On the other hand, I will be melting the captured pellets down and pouring them into the corn ingots. But, I don't know if this process will remove the oils. Last thing I want to do is add another possible reason for poor results to the mix.
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Bill, you are using old wheel weights, they have oil, grease, dog wet, and all manner of stuff on them when you get them. The smelting that you do to bring them to ingots for the production pot takes care of it for you. I would not be concerned about a little ballistics lube as far as that is concerned.
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After thinking about lubing pellets overnight I've decided not to.
Obviously I am new to the game of casting and it looks like I may be on a steep learning curve. Much of that comes from my learning process.... I tend not to follow directions well and I need to see the good and the bad for myself through trial and error. Anyways, my plan is to capture and recast as many of my pellets as possible. That said, my mind says the I don't want lube of any kind on them.
On the other hand, I will be melting the captured pellets down and pouring them into the corn ingots. But, I don't know if this process will remove the oils. Last thing I want to do is add another possible reason for poor results to the mix.
Oil is much less dense than lead. Worst case scenario it floats on top and you slim it off. Best case it acts as a reductant.
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I also flux with sawdust and that should absorb any oils.
BTW, I just talked to my buddy, Pete, who owns the tire shop. He told me to come on down and pick up a bucket of wheel weights.
USPS is due to deliver the insulation for the mold oven this morning. Soon as that is here I'll grab me a 5 gallon bucket and head out.
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I don't use a thermometer, tumbler, lube, hot plate or any of the popular gizmo's for casting for PB's y'all KNOW how I do it and I still swear by it.
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LOL Wayne, I hear ya. And before it's all said and done, I may be doing it the same.
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I don't use a thermometer, tumbler, lube, hot plate or any of the popular gizmo's for casting for PB's y'all KNOW how I do it and I still swear by it.
Same here, but I do use a hotplate oven because I like to cast with multiple molds in the same session. My 4lb pot and Lyman ladle make all of my airgun ammo. My bottom pour pots are are PB only. Wayne, thanks to your method I rarely have to cull any of my casts.
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Bill, I read that you are getting a bucket of used wheel weights. Here's a guide to help sort what you get.
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?139839-Guide-to-Hand-Sorting-Wheel-Weights&s=8323198a959460e753dead759166a5a2
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I am with Wayne, I just go with it. One bucket of wheel weights will last me forever, I am still sorting them out to some extent. Now that I have pellet/slug traps made, I don't have to worry about a lead shortage, I have to worry about storing this stuff for future use. Bill, there is nothing wrong about trying something out that is how you learn what works best for you.
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TY Robert... this is a useful link.
This will be my 3rd go around with the wheel weights and I've learn the tricks.
First the magnet on the ends (stay away from the clips) then the visual (read the codes).
Steel sticks to the magnet and zine is clearly marked ZN.
And finally the melt....
Lead melts faster than anything else and I never leave the pot unattended. If I happen to miss anything it shows itself pretty good. I'm always stirring and scooping steel clips out.
I flux twice before I even pour ingots... once with beeswax and again with sawdust after the wax burns off.
I also add sawdust to the pot everytime I add ingots.
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I am not quite equipped for the pressure pour.... yet.
My hot plate must have a safety temp regulator in it. It will get hot enough to melt the lead from the wheel weight for ingots but it will not get hot enough to to pour the pellets.
My 4# bottom pour LEE pot does not give me enough room for the ladle.
That leaves me with 2 options...
1) pull the bottom pour rod out of the pot and plug the bottom pour hole.
2) break out one of my propane burners.
Neither of which are gonna happen today because... all of my propane tanks are empty and I really don't want to modify the new LEE pot.
So, today looks like a good day to sort wheel weights. ;D
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BTW... the insulation came in this morning for the mold oven cover.
I made the form fitted cover and fastened it with zip ties. They are on the outside of the insulation and will never get hot enough to melt.
OK, this is why I feel that the hot plate has a safety temp reg in it....
Completely covered, the oven with only reach about 325 on the high setting. 325 is close enough to preheat the molds.
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Question...
Would cardboard act the same as sawdust?
I have a lot of cardboard and no sawdust to speak of.
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In the video I watched and learned about sawdust, the guy also used a paper towel as an example.
I'm not sure of the glue content in cardboard or if it would dross off.
Or, would it just act like a wax/flux.
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I'm close to giving NOE a call about one of my molds :(
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Scott, the cardboard should do the same as sawdust, I noticed that the paper and cardboard that ends up in my bullet trap ( it has a lot of it from the targets). I don't even try to clean it out anymore due to what I see it pulling out of the lead when I melt it back down.
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Awesome!
Thanks guys
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Anything carbon based that can be burned..
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Bill,
I have an OLD 2 burner hot plate, Sear's brand I think, $10 second hand,
1 burner is 850W and the other 1000W, I am just the opposite of you,
I have to turn them down, as they get too hot.......I found out. ;)
Don
BTW... the insulation came in this morning for the mold oven cover.
I made the form fitted cover and fastened it with zip ties. They are on the outside of the insulation and will never get hot enough to melt.
OK, this is why I feel that the hot plate has a safety temp reg in it....
Completely covered, the oven with only reach about 325 on the high setting. 325 is close enough to preheat the molds.
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Scott, the cardboard should do the same as sawdust, I noticed that the paper and cardboard that ends up in my bullet trap ( it has a lot of it from the targets). I don't even try to clean it out anymore due to what I see it pulling out of the lead when I melt it back down.
Ditto. A drop of bees wax after that and I'm ready to pour.
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Question...
Would cardboard act the same as sawdust?
I have a lot of cardboard and no sawdust to speak of.
Do you know anyone that does woodwork? I have a buddy with that builds furniture and cabinets and he keeps my supplied with cedar sawdust.
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I have lots of old wood around here and a DeWalt chop saw. I just hang an ice cream bucket on the back and cut thin slices of the wood to spit sawdust into the bucket when I need to refill the spice bottle.
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I heat my mold in a toaster oven.. 450 degres
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I set up a spot on the mancave shooting deck and turned the 3' industrial fan on. Busted the magnet out of an old speaker I found down in the barn and sorted that 1/2 5 gallon bucket of wheel weights.
I used an iced down 6 pack in a small cooler for fuel.. ;)
I ended up with about 90% good lead and 10% junk (zinc and steel). I need to visit the old second hand joints and pick up a good old metal ladle. Seems like everything these days is cheap thin or plastic.
Looks like I'll end up with around 50# of good ingots this go around.
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I got bored/impatient this morning so I headed for the Casting Corner.
The last batch of corn cob ingots I made had #8 shot mixed in and I suspect it had too much antimony in it. So I decided to met 1 cob back into each pan of wheel weight lead.
Also it appears that some of the weights are of a harder metal even though I used a magnet and read the codes (best I could). Out of 2 batches (7 cobs each) I pulled out 6 weights that seemed to not want to melt down at the same temp as the rest.
My vacuum cleaner exhaust fan worked perfectly and drew all the smoke and fumes out of the building. Even when fluxing twice... once with pure wax and once with cedar saw dust.
Best guess is that I have 6 or 7 batches of 7 cobs each to go. My 10# pot will take around 5 cobs to fill from empty.
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Early start this morning.
The goal is to get the rest of these wheel weights poured into ingots. I need to work in the mornings because it's starting to get too hot here in lower Alabama. Remember, I'm a displaced yankee from the Lake Erie area.
Yesterday saw record high temps for Mother's day here in the Montgomery, Al area. It ain't the heat.. I can handle heat.. it's the humidity.. it's like swimming in hot soup. Then standing over a 600 - 700 pot of molten lead don't help much.
But, the payoff is worth it. Free pellets is free pellets no matter how you pour it.. ;)
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Been going back and forth on the idea of building a PID vs. buying one already made vs. just continue without.
The tinkerer in me says build one.. the lazy in me says buy one already made and the cheap bastage in me says I don't even need one.
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Been going back and forth on the idea of building a PID vs. buying one already made vs. just continue without.
The tinkerer in me says build one.. the lazy in me says buy one already made and the cheap bastage in me says I don't even need one.
I don't have a lot of electrical/wiring skills. So for me I would have to buy something easy to make or already done to add PID to an inexpensive furnace. At which point I would rather get an RCBS Easymelt since I want to upgrade from my 4lb pot anyway. It's hard to maintain an even temp with such a small amount of lead.
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That would be nice but it's way out of my budget.
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Building the tower of corn...
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I just started chanting jinga... Would not be a problem but I had to take a truck to a freightliner shop to have a recall and have the PTO rpm bumped up. But I'm in the driver's lounge getting strange looks from the other drivers.
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You're not strange... they are.
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I built my PID out of a old computer power box.. The rest is just cutting with a metal saw bit on a Dremel and crimp on wire connectors... Easy..
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That cast iron corn bread mold makes 7 ingots. I just emptied my pot and cleaned it and it took exactly 7 ears of corn to fill it.
The beautiful thing was that lead has a mirror finish on top of it. I waxed and saw dusted the lead before pouring the ingots. I also pulled everything out that seemed to want to melt at a higher temp. I assume pure lead melts at a lower temp than anything.
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That would be nice but it's way out of my budget.
I wish I had just gotten it in the first place rather than starting with the tiny furnace. $150 isn't too bad considering a Lee 20 lb ladle furnace is about $80 to my door from amazon. If I wanted to add PID to the Lee furnace that's another $10 if I can do everything myself or $25 - $50+ for ready to go conversion parts. Might as well just get the Easymelt and just have a plug and play solution for just a few dollars more.
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I want to pressure pour with the dipper. The problem is, as you can see in the picture below, the pouring rod on my pot is in the way of the ladle getting into the lead.
So, what will I do?
I've drained the pot and I'm letting it cool. I have a drill bit the size of the pour nozzle (I've cleaned the hole out before). I'm going to clean the nozzle out real good and put a small machine head screw in the hole long enough to hang an inch or so out the bottom. I'll put a washer on it so the head does not drop into the nozzle and a nut on the bottom to tighten it up and plug the pour nozzle.
I want it 100% reversible.
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I want to pressure pour with the dipper. The problem is, as you can see in the picture below, the pouring rod on my pot is in the way of the ladle getting into the lead.
So, what will I do?
I've drained the pot and I'm letting it cool. I have a drill bit the size of the pour nozzle (I've cleaned the hole out before). I'm going to clean the nozzle out real good and put a small machine head screw in the hole long enough to hang an inch or so out the bottom. I'll put a washer on it so the head does not drop into the nozzle and a nut on the bottom to tighten it up and plug the pour nozzle.
I want it 100% reversible.
reversing that won't be fun. Getting the lead out of the pot and off the screw is gonna be a pain. Thinking torch. Wonder if you could thread in ID of the nozzle and put a screw in from the bottom. You could then get out most of the lead and use a tool to unscrew the nozzle plug so that your hand isn't under it when the lead flows after the screw is removed. It will have to be removed while the lead is liquid. Or, maybe thread the outside of the nozzle and put something like an acorn nut on it???
Not sure what the nozzle looks like on that one, if it has enough straight wall and you can find the right size perhaps a compression nut cap.
https://www.grainger.com/product/PARKER-Cap-316-Stainless-Steel-1PZL7 (https://www.grainger.com/product/PARKER-Cap-316-Stainless-Steel-1PZL7)
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The nozzle looks just like a grease fitting.
Anyways.. I got it. I cleaned it all out until hole was opened up. Then I ran a finish nail just about the exact size into the hole from the inside. The head plugged the hole perfectly. Then I bent the finish nail with a pair of needle nose from the bottom drawing it tight. To remove I'll just dip the molted lead, straighten the nail and push it up until I can grab it with needle nose.
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Now I need to rebuild the casting corner bench. When we built it I made sure it was high enough to comfortably bottom pour. Now with ladle pouring it's about 10 - 12" too high. I get about 30 or 40 pours and I have to stop due to my replacement shoulder.
At first I was thinking that ladle pouring was going to be slower. But not if I look at the big picture...
I'm getting a rhythm and picking up speed. Plus, I'm getting much nicer pellets with less culling. And once I lower the bench to a comfortable level I can cast longer sessions.
I haven't been able to do the pressure pour yet because it's too high. That's another thing that will be better.
Also, no dripping at all. Before I had to stop from time to time and turn the pour rod to make the drip stop.
Hindsight... Had I had any experience I would have bought a 20# pot with no bottom pour and a ladle to begin with. As for PID... I really don't see any need. I can set the rheostat at 5 - 5 1/5 and wait till the temp gauge runs up to around 700 - 725 and that's where I run it. I only have to stop and wait when I add the sprues back
The other thing I can do it keep the smelting pan on the hot plate and drop the sprues into it. When the pot gets low, I can juts pour them in.
But, I don't mind waiting, it gives me the chance to dump/reload the tumbler and cull the pellets.
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I have a 4lb pot and 2 10lb bottom pour pots. One of the 10s gets nothing but alloy and one gets nothing put pure lead. I like your idea and I might do it on mine. The 4lb is fine most of the time but sometimes I have time for longer casting sessions with multiple molds so 10lbs would be better for that.
I don't run a PID either and I keep my dial between 5 and 6 most of the time too.
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If you have a temp gage and adjustable temp control a PID isn't necessary but is convenient, no adjustment needed. The 20lb bottom pour uses a vertical pour mechanism and leaves lots of room for the ladle. You can do either, might be helpful if ever pouring large bullets or ingots.
What about making a platform to stand on so you can ladle or bottom pour in comfort. Making ingots might be easier with the bottom pour.
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Ed, I hear ya Bro.
Patrick...
I see a bad scenario when I close my eyes..
It has alot to do with standing on a platform built on 4 - 6" of of round river rock gravel with a 2oz. scoop of molten lead in m y hand. I mean, I have a sense of adventure but I prefer not to wear a phantom of the opera mask.
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Picked up a great 4 pc. stainless kitchen utensil set at Walmart for $6. I'll use the spoon and ladle for pulling the junk out of the wheel weight melts and pouring ingots. Now I can melt bigger batches because I don't have to lift the heavy pan to pour them. Betty Lou will use the other 2 deals in the kitchen.
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Gonna make ingots on a larger scale today....
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There is a chance of rain today so I didn't want to move everything ouitside. So I got the exhaust fans running and all the smoke and fumes are going out.
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I ended up changing out burners.. the other one seemed to be plugged up.
Now we're cookin' .
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And with a few waves of the magic dipper and a couple magic words, which I don't remember because I made them up along the way, we have muffins and corn cobs.
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Killer called yesterday, he had a large size (he's a big man) electric chair here that we had covered and stored in the back room. It is still new and in the plastic because he refused to ride in it. He told me to dig it out because Ronnie Baker (Baker's towing and scrap yard) was going to come and get it for Momma Baker to use.
When Ronnie arrived he saw Casting Corner and asked what I was doing. I explained it to him and asked if he had any wheel weights. He said he was just tossing them in junk cars headed for the shredder but, he would start saving them for me.
Then he said he had several lead weights from diver's belts. He told me to stop by and pick them up. Nice thing is, Baker's is located just right around the corner from us. We pass by it every time we leave or return home. Between him and Pete I should have more lead than I could ever use.
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Bill, that's awesome. It's funny how when you dive into something you find what you need and also sometimes like-minded friends. I was given about a hundred pounds of pure sheet lead from an x-ray room door by a friend that knew I had got into casting.
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Keith, you're in a good place to pick up diving belt weights too. Check Craigslist and second hand shops.
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Keith, you're in a good place to pick up diving belt weights too. Check Craigslist and second hand shops.
Thanks for this tip.
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I exercised my right to change my mind. ;)
Instead of modifying the workbench in Casting Corner to make it lower, I decided to relocate things. That corner and bench will now become my workbench for all the dirty jobs. The grinder, vise and assorted nut/bolt/screw drawers will move to that bench. The shop air compressor will sit under it moving it closer to the roll up door where it is more convenient.
What is now the "L" shaped workbench will become the casting and airgun compressor area and all things related to such will be there.
This will keep all the dirty work away from the casting process and compressors. Plus, these benches are lower making ladle pouring more comfortable.
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;D 8) If you don't want to lower the bench mark, find a lower bench ;D 8)
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LOL...
I ladle poured a couple hundred .25 cal pellets today and I am quite impressed with the results. Tight weight variants with minimal culling. I shot several mags with one of the Sentry 705 and accuracy was impressive. The lower bench made things much more comfortable.
Still have quite a bit of reorganizing to do but I got nothing but time.
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Molds recently back in stock at NOE....
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Yep, I found my stride now...
The oven gets the mold to 350 and setting the rheostat at 5 gets the lead at 700*. Using the ladle to pour the aluminum 4 cav .25 mold I can whip out 200 good pellets in around 20 minutes. While that batch tumbles and the sprues get back up to temp I can cull and weigh samples.
Rinse and repeat.
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Gave in to the urge and ordered the kit to build a PID controller.
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Gave in to the urge and ordered the kit to build a PID controller.
Good man! You are going to learn a lot in a short period of time!
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Not knowing anything about PID controllers and such, would this work? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&aaxitk=1ec2da83a7a2cabf9d53a3cabd287059&content-id=amzn1.sym.7dd77237-72be-4809-b5b5-d553eab7ad9d%3Aamzn1.sym.7dd77237-72be-4809-b5b5-d553eab7ad9d&hsa_cr_id=8315846580501&pd_rd_plhdr=t&pd_rd_r=97a65c55-722c-410c-abbe-2672969cff7d&pd_rd_w=60sQV&pd_rd_wg=QIMYd&qid=1684648942&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_2_title&sr=1-3-9e67e56a-6f64-441f-a281-df67fc737124&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&aaxitk=1ec2da83a7a2cabf9d53a3cabd287059&content-id=amzn1.sym.7dd77237-72be-4809-b5b5-d553eab7ad9d%3Aamzn1.sym.7dd77237-72be-4809-b5b5-d553eab7ad9d&hsa_cr_id=8315846580501&pd_rd_plhdr=t&pd_rd_r=97a65c55-722c-410c-abbe-2672969cff7d&pd_rd_w=60sQV&pd_rd_wg=QIMYd&qid=1684648942&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_2_title&sr=1-3-9e67e56a-6f64-441f-a281-df67fc737124&th=1)
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Not knowing anything about PID controllers and such, would this work? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&aaxitk=1ec2da83a7a2cabf9d53a3cabd287059&content-id=amzn1.sym.7dd77237-72be-4809-b5b5-d553eab7ad9d%3Aamzn1.sym.7dd77237-72be-4809-b5b5-d553eab7ad9d&hsa_cr_id=8315846580501&pd_rd_plhdr=t&pd_rd_r=97a65c55-722c-410c-abbe-2672969cff7d&pd_rd_w=60sQV&pd_rd_wg=QIMYd&qid=1684648942&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_2_title&sr=1-3-9e67e56a-6f64-441f-a281-df67fc737124&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&aaxitk=1ec2da83a7a2cabf9d53a3cabd287059&content-id=amzn1.sym.7dd77237-72be-4809-b5b5-d553eab7ad9d%3Aamzn1.sym.7dd77237-72be-4809-b5b5-d553eab7ad9d&hsa_cr_id=8315846580501&pd_rd_plhdr=t&pd_rd_r=97a65c55-722c-410c-abbe-2672969cff7d&pd_rd_w=60sQV&pd_rd_wg=QIMYd&qid=1684648942&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_2_title&sr=1-3-9e67e56a-6f64-441f-a281-df67fc737124&th=1)
Don't think so, the range only goes up to around 250f.
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Got tracking on the kit... it's scheduled to arrive next Saturday. That may upgrade because it's just in the pre shipping stage coming out of NJ.
No tracking number for the probe yet.
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Gave in to the urge and ordered the kit to build a PID controller.
Is this gonna make you some kinda "Control Freak"?
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Gave in to the urge and ordered the kit to build a PID controller.
Is this gonna make you some kinda "Control Freak"?
Totally.
Still on the list is learning and getting experience in lead hardness.
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Gave in to the urge and ordered the kit to build a PID controller.
Is this gonna make you some kinda "Control Freak"?
Totally.
Still on the list is learning and getting experience in lead hardness.
The Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook is indispensable to the home caster.
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Gave in to the urge and ordered the kit to build a PID controller.
Is this gonna make you some kinda "Control Freak"?
Totally.
Still on the list is learning and getting experience in lead hardness.
The Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook is indispensable to the home caster.
Yes, I think I have the PDF saved on the tablet.
Here is my first pour of the day. I culled 4 pellets out of this pour. They may have been the first drop.
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I'll tumble those for about 20 minutes and it takes just a little shine off. They will look like polished aluminum. If I tumble them with BBs they come out a bright shiny silver like they are now.
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Gave in to the urge and ordered the kit to build a PID controller.
Is this gonna make you some kinda "Control Freak"?
Totally.
Still on the list is learning and getting experience in lead hardness.
The Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook is indispensable to the home caster.
Yes, I think I have the PDF saved on the tablet.
Here is my first pour of the day. I culled 4 pellets out of this pour. They may have been the first drop.
What, are you going all art deco on us??🤔😁
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Gave in to the urge and ordered the kit to build a PID controller.
Is this gonna make you some kinda "Control Freak"?
Totally.
Still on the list is learning and getting experience in lead hardness.
The Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook is indispensable to the home caster.
Yes, I think I have the PDF saved on the tablet.
Here is my first pour of the day. I culled 4 pellets out of this pour. They may have been the first drop.
What, are you going all art deco on us??🤔😁
That is a pretty fancy pellet dish ???
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I see an elephant.
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=207107.0;attach=434054;image)
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That would be abstract art not the deco type ;)
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Pickie, pickie, pickie!🤣
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I just found out that my pellet moulds are ruined. Somebody (not me) decided to be very helpful and clean the patio area where I was casting. All the casting stuff was put in a cardboard box and moved out of the way temporarily.... Well, I wasn't aware of the "temporary move" and we had lots of rain, you guessed it, everything got soaked, rusted and oxidized. Is there a discount code for NOE? I need to replace them all.
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Not sure about a code but they do have sales at times. Try polishing them with Fitz polish???
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Not sure about a code but they do have sales at times. Try polishing them with Fitz polish???
Thank you James, yes, I did try to polish them, the pins are rust pitted and the aluminum oxidized/scaled. I will try to salvage what I can but other than the handles..... little hope.
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Not knowing anything about PID controllers and such, would this work? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&aaxitk=1ec2da83a7a2cabf9d53a3cabd287059&content-id=amzn1.sym.7dd77237-72be-4809-b5b5-d553eab7ad9d%3Aamzn1.sym.7dd77237-72be-4809-b5b5-d553eab7ad9d&hsa_cr_id=8315846580501&pd_rd_plhdr=t&pd_rd_r=97a65c55-722c-410c-abbe-2672969cff7d&pd_rd_w=60sQV&pd_rd_wg=QIMYd&qid=1684648942&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_2_title&sr=1-3-9e67e56a-6f64-441f-a281-df67fc737124&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&aaxitk=1ec2da83a7a2cabf9d53a3cabd287059&content-id=amzn1.sym.7dd77237-72be-4809-b5b5-d553eab7ad9d%3Aamzn1.sym.7dd77237-72be-4809-b5b5-d553eab7ad9d&hsa_cr_id=8315846580501&pd_rd_plhdr=t&pd_rd_r=97a65c55-722c-410c-abbe-2672969cff7d&pd_rd_w=60sQV&pd_rd_wg=QIMYd&qid=1684648942&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_2_title&sr=1-3-9e67e56a-6f64-441f-a281-df67fc737124&th=1)
I started a separate thread asking this question but anyone have an opinion on this unit?
https://www.amazon.com/Twidec-Temperature-Controllers-Thermostat-Controller/dp/B0BSBDJCQX (https://www.amazon.com/Twidec-Temperature-Controllers-Thermostat-Controller/dp/B0BSBDJCQX)
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I just found out that my pellet moulds are ruined. Somebody (not me) decided to be very helpful and clean the patio area where I was casting. All the casting stuff was put in a cardboard box and moved out of the way temporarily.... Well, I wasn't aware of the "temporary move" and we had lots of rain, you guessed it, everything got soaked, rusted and oxidized. Is there a discount code for NOE? I need to replace them all.
BB, these codes will stack.
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Gave in to the urge and ordered the kit to build a PID controller.
Is this gonna make you some kinda "Control Freak"?
Totally.
Still on the list is learning and getting experience in lead hardness.
The Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook is indispensable to the home caster.
Yes, I think I have the PDF saved on the tablet.
Here is my first pour of the day. I culled 4 pellets out of this pour. They may have been the first drop.
What, are you going all art deco on us??🤔😁
That is a pretty fancy pellet dish ???
LOL... just one of Betty Lou's old Tupperware containers that I sort pellets in. She's always buying new ones and giving me the old ones. Those ones are the side by side section type that she used to pack my lunch in.
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NICE!
Thanks ;D
Cart totals
Subtotal $118.50
Coupon: flt001 -$10.66 [Remove]
Coupon: dls001 -$11.85 [Remove]
Shipping: Calculate shipping
Total $95.99
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Welcome... just passing along info someone hooked me up with.
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Thank you gents, I placed my order. I had to re0do my account info and it took a little time, but it is done ;D
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Me too..
217-20-RF-CE6 2 Cavity HB inbound
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Me too..
217-20-RF-CE6 2 Cavity HB inbound
Had you asked I would have recommended the 217 - 24 - RF Magnum. All my .22 guns just like it better than the Hunter.
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Today's casting yielded a 3.5 cup Rubbermaid container half full of shiny new .25 cal. FN pellets. All weighing in between 27.50 and 28.20. (I weighed about 1 every 20 or so as I checked quality). This was done in 4 20 minute sessions. Each batch tumbled for 20 minutes.
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Me too..
217-20-RF-CE6 2 Cavity HB inbound
Had you asked I would have recommended the 217 - 24 - RF Magnum. All my .22 guns just like it better than the Hunter.
Wayne traded me a tin of those and I still have 300+ left.
Very nice but a bit heavy for most of my .22 guns so I thought this would be close to the 18.1g JSB / FX they all love.
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I just found out that my pellet moulds are ruined. Somebody (not me) decided to be very helpful and clean the patio area where I was casting. All the casting stuff was put in a cardboard box and moved out of the way temporarily.... Well, I wasn't aware of the "temporary move" and we had lots of rain, you guessed it, everything got soaked, rusted and oxidized. Is there a discount code for NOE? I need to replace them all.
Yeah, I'd have to walk 3 or 4 laps around the perimeter of our 5 acres before making any human contact over that one. >:(
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I just found out that my pellet moulds are ruined. Somebody (not me) decided to be very helpful and clean the patio area where I was casting. All the casting stuff was put in a cardboard box and moved out of the way temporarily.... Well, I wasn't aware of the "temporary move" and we had lots of rain, you guessed it, everything got soaked, rusted and oxidized. Is there a discount code for NOE? I need to replace them all.
Yeah, I'd have to walk 3 or 4 laps around the perimeter of our 5 acres before making any human contact over that one. >:(
LOL!! Well, what's done, is done! Both "helpers" are out of town and safe :( As the saying goes, the road to H. E. L. L. is paved with good intentions. Lesson learned... again!.
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Me too..
217-20-RF-CE6 2 Cavity HB inbound
Had you asked I would have recommended the 217 - 24 - RF Magnum. All my .22 guns just like it better than the Hunter.
Wayne traded me a tin of those and I still have 300+ left.
Very nice but a bit heavy for most of my .22 guns so I thought this would be close to the 18.1g JSB / FX they all love.
If I remember correctly, those pellets drop at about 19.2 or so grains.
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A little over 20 from my brass 2 cav. with the longest pins.
Matter of fact, I'm going to go into casting those with the ladle pouring after I finish up with the .25 cal.
I should soon have a 24 Magnum mold in my possesion.
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Me too..
217-20-RF-CE6 2 Cavity HB inbound
Had you asked I would have recommended the 217 - 24 - RF Magnum. All my .22 guns just like it better than the Hunter.
Wayne traded me a tin of those and I still have 300+ left.
Very nice but a bit heavy for most of my .22 guns so I thought this would be close to the 18.1g JSB / FX they all love.
If I remember correctly, those pellets drop at about 19.2 or so grains.
Perfect 8)
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I just found out that my pellet moulds are ruined. Somebody (not me) decided to be very helpful and clean the patio area where I was casting. All the casting stuff was put in a cardboard box and moved out of the way temporarily.... Well, I wasn't aware of the "temporary move" and we had lots of rain, you guessed it, everything got soaked, rusted and oxidized. Is there a discount code for NOE? I need to replace them all.
I'm sorry to hear that.
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I hate it too but it's given me incentive to make a change. I'm going to build a small cabinet or find a wood ammo box to keep my molds in. Right no the sit on the bench or under the mold oven cover.
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Me too..
217-20-RF-CE6 2 Cavity HB inbound
Had you asked I would have recommended the 217 - 24 - RF Magnum. All my .22 guns just like it better than the Hunter.
Wayne traded me a tin of those and I still have 300+ left.
Very nice but a bit heavy for most of my .22 guns so I thought this would be close to the 18.1g JSB / FX they all love.
If I remember correctly, those pellets drop at about 19.2 or so grains.
Mine do too, but my lead has a bit of other stuff in it since I'm using a lot of reclaimed pellets.
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Working on the box for the PID temperature controller I'm building. I got the dimensions for the control unit from WobblyHand (Bruce) who already received the same kit as I have coming.
I found a Wells Fargo security system controller lock box out in the mancave. I was using it for a doorstop. It's a strong box and it took me the better part of 2 hours to get the lock off because I didn't have the key.
I had a set of rubber feet for the bottom. It already had the holes for mounting the box and I just had to make them a bit bigger.
I also had a 4 pole 20a lighted rocker switch that I bought as a spare for the MKII compressor. It will get a flat black paint job before final assembly.
It's a work in progress.
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You certainly dive in head first sailor style lol.
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Yeah, always been that way. It's even worse now since I have all this free time. But the good thing is, I can find most of the stuff for the projects right here.
I got the hole in the back for the power supply cord and the connector clamp in. I also found a knob and added that.
I'm thinking about a 3 prong female jack instead of a cord to plug the pot into. I would put it in the front. They are a couple bucks on Amazon.
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You certainly dive in head first sailor style lol.
Yeah, I suppose I could have bought a bike and a new truck to haul it in.... :o LOL
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What else am I supposed to get the monsters and groceries in, not the bike lol?
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Bill,
I just caught up with these last few posts (too lazy to go through the last four pages).
you'll be happy you went temp controlled... it made a large difference with my casting...no more tweaking as you go.
I made my P.I.D. controller quite a while back and love that it can keep my temp at the sweet spot.
I didn't know there were 'kits'
so I just threw one together.
and it ain't pretty. It works nonetheless.
I put mine under the pot as a base just because I don't like long cords.
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I have space on a shelf just above the pot for mine.
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Put a coat of flat black on the PID box this morning. I'll touch it up before final assembly.
Found the knob in the junk drawer and I just couldn't resist using it.
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Looks great! Amazing what a coat of paint will do.
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Yep..
Still considering the probe plug, 3 prong power plug and a fan. Also deciding if I want a probe or connect to the bottom pour nozzle. If I connect to the bottom pour nozzle I will want the probe plug so I can disconnect.
If I need to go with a fan I want a 110v. I'm hoping that just venting the box will be enough. I haven't put a vent in yet because I need to determine the SSR location.
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The PID kit is due to arrive tomorrow. The upgraded probe (700c) is due by the weekend along with a wire terminal kit and the 3 prong power plug that I plan to put in the front the box so I can just plug the pot in. I decided to just hardwire the probe into the PID but I will make a bracket so I can just hang the probe in the pot and remove it for pot cleaning and maint. Haven't decided whether or not to install a fan yet... we'll see how it goes first. I may just need to vent the box.
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The PID kit is due to arrive tomorrow. The upgraded probe (700c) is due by the weekend along with a wire terminal kit and the 3 prong power plug that I plan to put in the front the box so I can just plug the pot in. I decided to just hardwire the probe into the PID but I will make a bracket so I can just hang the probe in the pot and remove it for pot cleaning and maint. Haven't decided whether or not to install a fan yet... we'll see how it goes first. I may just need to vent the box.
Personally, I'm going with a fan. Remember where the SSR is sourced from. It's very low cost consumer grade electronics, not mil-spec. It may need all the help it can get not to overheat.
That being said, the worst that can happen is it faults short circuit. Then the pot temp will go to maximum. You still have the rheostat on the pot to turn it down. If it faults open circuit, the pot cools down. Dunno, try it. I'll still going to use a fan, since I ordered it (and spent the $).
As a heads up, the heat sink is tapped for M4 screws.
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Got ya... I'll be sure to watch the heat inside the box. I can always leave the lid open.
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No fan in my computer power box as it has cooling vents already in it.. Using it for last 5 years..
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I have been meaning to build one just haven't been casting enough to really need it yet.
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No fan in my computer power box as it has cooling vents already in it.. Using it for last 5 years..
That's a pretty wide open box, so it will be relatively cool. I'm using an ammo can and it is water and air tight, so thought it could use some cooling help. Good data point, though.
I over engineer stuff, because I don't like fixing my own screw ups, later. It's a bad habit, (the over engineering) but that's how I'm wired.
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Yeah, I think I'm going to use my 4" grinder with a cut off wheel and vent both sides on my box. I don't want it in the top so dust and junk stays out. I'll try to leave room between the heat sink and side of the box to add a fan if needed. I want a 110v fan if needed and most I see are 4" fans and bigger.
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No fan in mine either. Just need to use some thermal paste between the heat sink and the SSR. I use a 40-amp SSR and just used an old computer power supply box that has plenty of vent holes in it. Have never had an issue with it.
Here is the build links:
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=158723.msg155780761#msg155780761 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=158723.msg155780761#msg155780761)
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I found my 18a power cord today and cut it to length. I left enough to cut into leads for all my wiring. It was 9' long and I saved 3' of it.
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I'm pretty sure if I had a mini 110v fan laying around here I would use it. But I don't and if I keep ordering stuff for this project the total cost will exceed what I just could have bought one for.
I've watched several vids on putting these together to be used for lead melting pot and I can't say I ever saw anyone using a fan... heck, many don't even vent the box. If I'm not mistaken, that blue box is some type of plastic... no fan.
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Meanwhile...
Since I have a 3.5 cup Tupperware container of quality .25 pellets cast, I decided to switch over to .22. I ran a 50 pellet test to tumble and weigh as a sample. It's the 217 20 RF brass 2 cav Hunter with the longest pins in it.
And I got tracking this morning on the 24gr Magnum mold.
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The test ladle pour of the .22 went great. I ended up with about 100 nice pellets ranging from 20.20 to 20.80. Only about 25 didn't make the cut. They were under 20.00 and over 21.00. Very few bad pour which were probably my fault.
Tomorrow I plan a long run. The Magnum mold is due Saturday. I should have the PID in operation by then.
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Dropped another 150 or so this morning. They are in the tumbler now while the sprues melt and come up to temp.
It looked like another good run, we'll see. Like I said before, had I had the experience that I have now I would have bought a 20# pot with no bottom pour and a ladle right out of the gate.
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Musta got too close to the metal handles yesterday. I noticed a nice blister right in the inside joint of my left index finger. I think I'll let it sting awhile just as a reminder before I pop it. :o :-\
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Dropped another 150 or so this morning. They are in the tumbler now while the sprues melt and come up to temp.
It looked like another good run, we'll see. Like I said before, had I had the experience that I have now I would have bought a 20# pot with no bottom pour and a ladle right out of the gate.
Same here, but I have the 4lb ladle pot. It's hard to maintain a good temperature with such a small furnace.
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Dropped another 150 or so this morning. They are in the tumbler now while the sprues melt and come up to temp.
It looked like another good run, we'll see. Like I said before, had I had the experience that I have now I would have bought a 20# pot with no bottom pour and a ladle right out of the gate.
Same here, but I have the 4lb ladle pot. It's hard to maintain a good temperature with such a small furnace.
That's the main reason I'm building the PID. Even without it I'm getting much better results with the ladle then I did bottom pouring. So much easier to control as well.
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The 217 24 RF Magnum NOE mold arrived today. I was surprised because I thought it was to be a 2 cav brass but it's a 2 cav aluminum. (Thanks Ron).
FYI.. it's my experience that an aluminum mold is so much less finicky than a brass mold.
It really pours nice pellets. I dropped a 20 pellet test and they weighed within .20 of each other. So I ran another 100 or so and put them in the tumbler.
Looks like I'll be casting these for awhile to fill my inventory.
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Dropped another 150 or so this morning. They are in the tumbler now while the sprues melt and come up to temp.
It looked like another good run, we'll see. Like I said before, had I had the experience that I have now I would have bought a 20# pot with no bottom pour and a ladle right out of the gate.
Same here, but I have the 4lb ladle pot. It's hard to maintain a good temperature with such a small furnace.
That's the main reason I'm building the PID. Even without it I'm getting much better results with the ladle then I did bottom pouring. So much easier to control as well.
Yeah, bottom pour on a pellet mold sounds tough
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Dropped another 150 or so this morning. They are in the tumbler now while the sprues melt and come up to temp.
It looked like another good run, we'll see. Like I said before, had I had the experience that I have now I would have bought a 20# pot with no bottom pour and a ladle right out of the gate.
Same here, but I have the 4lb ladle pot. It's hard to maintain a good temperature with such a small furnace.
That's the main reason I'm building the PID. Even without it I'm getting much better results with the ladle then I did bottom pouring. So much easier to control as well.
Yeah, bottom pour on a pellet mold sounds tough
It can also get quite messy. The sprues are bigger which equates to having to replenish the pot more often. That's an issue with a small pot and a 4 cav mold. Adding the sprues back to the pot as you go makes keeping the temps consistent difficult.
Bottom pour is probably much better with a larger pot and bigger bullets.
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I'm glad that you like the mold, and am happy that it found a good home.
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Dropped another 150 or so this morning. They are in the tumbler now while the sprues melt and come up to temp.
It looked like another good run, we'll see. Like I said before, had I had the experience that I have now I would have bought a 20# pot with no bottom pour and a ladle right out of the gate.
Same here, but I have the 4lb ladle pot. It's hard to maintain a good temperature with such a small furnace.
That's the main reason I'm building the PID. Even without it I'm getting much better results with the ladle then I did bottom pouring. So much easier to control as well.
Yeah, bottom pour on a pellet mold sounds tough
Not really, it just takes a bit of getting used to. You need to have the melting pot set up high enough to be able to see the spout. It also helps if you have the support contraption from NOE, you can set the distance between the spout and the mould.
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Dropped another 150 or so this morning. They are in the tumbler now while the sprues melt and come up to temp.
It looked like another good run, we'll see. Like I said before, had I had the experience that I have now I would have bought a 20# pot with no bottom pour and a ladle right out of the gate.
Same here, but I have the 4lb ladle pot. It's hard to maintain a good temperature with such a small furnace.
That's the main reason I'm building the PID. Even without it I'm getting much better results with the ladle then I did bottom pouring. So much easier to control as well.
Yeah, bottom pour on a pellet mold sounds tough
Not really, it just takes a bit of getting used to. You need to have the melting pot set up high enough to be able to see the spout. It also helps if you have the support contraption from NOE, you can set the distance between the spout and the mould.
They don't make it for the 10# pot. The thing mounts to one of the support legs on the 20# pot. The 10# pot don't have those support legs. I rigged a deal up that worked exactly the same and made things better but still didn't get as good of results as with ladle pouring. Maybe it's just me but me is all I got. ;)
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I dropped another 100 or so of those 217 24 RF magnums this morning. This mold drops some of the most consistent pellets I've cast. The Fortitude absolutely loves them. I'm sure many other guns will as well. The samples that were sent to me from the same mold shot good in every gun I tried them in.
It pretty much looks like I have my .22 and .25 pellet needs covered. That's going to save me a lot of money plus add another dimension to my airgun experience.
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Just be careful, I found out that I enjoy casting too much!
I now find myself spending more time casting than I do shooting!
:o
I am sure that this too shall change down the road.
;D
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Just be careful, I found out that I enjoy casting too much!
I now find myself spending more time casting than I do shooting!
:o
I am sure that this too shall change down the road.
;D
Ha Ha... too late. But like I've said before, I go through phases. In this case it's a good thing because I'm building inventory.
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The 3 prong power adapter showed up from Amazon so, with just a bit of grinding to square up the corners on the existing round hole, I got it mounted and wired into the PID box. Now the pot plugs right into the from of the PID box. When the 700c probe shows up this coming Wed. the PID will be ready to go.
I made a little chart that lists C to F conversions at 640* to 750* at 25* increments. The Rex C-100 PID does not have the option to switch C to F on the display.
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The PID is finished all but the 700c probe that is due to arrive Wed.
The wiring held me up a bit because the instructions (translated from Chinese to English) did not include good diagrams and I couldn't quite get a grasp of what was written. I watched several videos and it seemed like each one varied in how they wired it. Notably there are options and the wiring, being low voltage for the most part, is somewhat forgiving when it comes to polarity in certain connections.
One video, although it was dragged out, finally made sense to me and I dove in. I will be happy to answer questions for those who may build one and have the same problems I did. Looking back, it's all quite simple.
Anyways.. I've included some pictures below and I will add more once the probe arrives, gets installed and the pot is connected, up and running.
The 3rd pic is the hole and grommet where the probe cable will enter the side of the box.
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Dis fur der Germans....
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Dang if couldn't read the dad blame thing.😜
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;)
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Farfrompuken.
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Ok, back to casting.
The final bits n pieces arrived this morning to finish the PID.... the 700c probe.
It was tedious getting it connected to the controller because there is not much room left in the box. But with a few choice words, I got it in.. :o :-X
It's now up and running on the pot and everything appears to be working as intended. As you can see, I'm just waiting for it to come up to the set temp.
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Ok, as you can see, I have the PID set to 371c = 700f.
The rheostat on the pot is cranked to max and is feeding off of the PID.
The temp rises to the set point then cuts the power to the pot. When the temp drops to 370c it kicks back on and runs the pot back to 371.
I stuck my gauge in the pot and it read right at 700f.
Also you can see that I installed a muffin fan in the top of the box blowing directly down onto the SSR and heat sink. I may not have needed that at all because even after running at full tilt increasing the temp from 350c to 371c, the box is cool as a cucumber. It's been in operation for more than an hour now and it's still cold to the touch.
That said, it's my opinion that this PID set up (REX C100) does not need a fan for cooling. It's also my opinion that the 400c rated PID is plenty for the task at hand. Some folks like to pour a little hotter but I can't see anyone needing more than the 752f max of this controller. I've read that I can make it go hotter and I do have the 700c probe b ut, I don't see any reason.
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I ran an 80 pellet run from the 2 cav .22 magnum mold (40 sprues).
I added the sprues back into the pot at 12:05. The temp dropped to 318c.
I watched it and at 12:09 the pot was back up to 371c and ready to pour.
I gotta say, I'm impressed.
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Admittedly it took a few dips to get used to dipping the ladle and pouring with the probe and bracket in the pot but once I got my stride I was right back to normal pouring.
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Nice set-up Bill..... Glad it worked out.
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Thanks, you know, I was probably doing just fine without it but it sure takes the guess work out of it. And if things go wrong it's one factor that can be eliminated from the cause.
Besides, even despite a bit of cussing here and there, I really enjoyed this project and actually saved money over buying a pre made one.
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Dropped another 80 or so, added the sprues back in. Put those 2 runs in the tumbler and shut things down. Looks like a storm might be brewing up. I'll give the tumbler 20 minutes or so then go out and shut that down. The goal is to fill a 3.5 cup Tupperware container then switch to the 217 20 RF brass mold and run the remainder of 3.5 cups of those.
Then I'll take a hiatus from casting and maybe get back to shooting more.
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A new mod for the mold oven..
I happen to have one of those camping toast deals like the one pictured below. It was new in the box and it must have came with the stuff I cleaned out of my BIL's garage when he passed. I took the wire toast supports off and the bottom fit the bottom of the oven cover like it was made for it. So I drill 3 holes and fastened it. It basically takes the place of the saw blade and I stick the mod it closed then once inside I open the mold slightly. With the hot plate on high it's runs the temp inside between 350f and 375f and cycles between those temps. The flap I left when I wrapped the cover with insulation gets tucked around the handle and prevents the wood form getting as hot as it used to.
So, I fired up the PID controlled pot and the mold oven with the mold inside and ran to the PO to drop off a package. When I got back everything was at the perfect pouring temps... pot at 700f and the mold at 350f. The very first pour dropped perfect pellets. I ran another 80 or so and added the sprues back to the pot.
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Seems like you have a very good system for cranking these out. Can you show a picture of your mold oven? Do the mold handles stick out? I was thinking of something simple like a hot plate to keep the mold temp high enough.
I have a 4 cavity WC mold, and couldn't get it hot enough by casting. A pre heat of the mold sounds like a good idea. My last session, all the pellets were cold. I was outside and it was windy which compounded the problem.
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Sure... here is a link back to where I made it.
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=207107.msg156442068#msg156442068 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=207107.msg156442068#msg156442068)
I have since wrapped it with with 2400f fireproof insulation blanket and added a new gauge. Plus the bottom plate I recently added. I'll get some updated pics but you get the idea.
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Popped out to the Red Shed and snapped a couple pics.
As you can see it's up and running right now so I'll get a pic of the bottom tomorrow before I fired it up and it's cooled off.
That's the low end of the temp cycle. In a minute or 2 it will come back on and increase temp to 375f then cycle off again. It's kinda like it has it's own PID.. ;D
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This is also what I use to break in new molds (initial heat cycles) after a thorough scrubbing. I heat cycle them 4 or 5 times before using.
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One more thing I can do as an option for sprues. I have an SS sauce pan I can leave on the hot plate and drop the sprues in. They will melt as I add them. When the pot gets low I can just add the molten lead to it. This reduces the time to get the pot back to temp.
I haven't done that because, as I reported earlier, adding the sprues dropped the pot temp to 318c and only took 4 minutes to bring the temp back to 371c (700f).
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I have really learned alot in the short time I started down the casting path. I think I have a great system and the results are awesome. It kinda brings my airgun experience to full circle.
Learning to tune and repair airguns saved me money and raised the fun factor.
Going from running up and down the road to fill scuba tanks was upgraded to compressor and gave me air independence.
Now making my own pellets from free lead.
It's a great time to be an airgunner.
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Rabbit hole anyone how deep is it so far? You must be traveling at mach 3 at least.
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Rabbit hole anyone how deep is it so far? You must be traveling at mach 3 at least.
Truth be told, I think I can smell the bottom. ???
Well, today's 3 batch run on the 217 24 RF magnums put me about halfways to my 3.5 cup goal for this one.
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Hat's off to you guys who cast .22!
My .457 slugs are a walk in the park compared to this new 217-20-RF-CE6 mold.
I keep getting shorts no matter how much I pre-heat the mold or how hot I have had the lead.
Culling about 75% so far on my 3rd session.
Then the mold fell in the pot while trying to keep it hot.. pins encased in lead.
Total SNAFU evening :(
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Hat's off to you guys who cast .22!
My .457 slugs are a walk in the park compared to this new 217-20-RF-CE6 mold.
I keep getting shorts no matter how much I pre-heat the mold or how hot I have had the lead.
Culling about 75% so far on my 3rd session.
Then the mold fell in the pot while trying to keep it hot.. pins encased in lead.
Total SNAFU evening :(
That's where pressure pouring comes to the rescue.
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Pressure pour has a learning curve also, I just can't get comfortable with it. I am having good success with just ladle pouring. I set the mold on the top edge of the pot and purposely pour each hole until the lead meets in the middle between the holes... just a little puddle. In just a second you can see the color change and a small dimple for each cavity. I cut the sprue my hand then turn the mold over in the catch box. If the pellets don't drop I give the head of the handle bolt a tap with a small lead hammer.
I run the mold oven at 350f to 375f and the PID at 700f.
And yes, I have accidentally let the mold dip in the pot.... twice. :o I let it cool, removed the pins (once I exhumed the mold) and dug the lead out. Lesson learned.
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I've been running 3 80ish pellet sessions a day for the past few days adding the sprues back in the pot between each. Today I decided to wait and tumble the entire day's run together at the end of the 3rd session. I'm getting alot better at this just by taking the time to do each pour consistent and with purpose. Of my last 80 pellet pour I culled 5 pellets. I'm good with about 94% quality rate. ;) I rarely shoot 200 pellets a day so I'll eventually have a good inventory built up. These sessions take about 15 minutes each. Then sorting/culling takes another 15 or so.
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Ok, so we all like to tinker, right?
Those of us who do eventually end up with random spare parts.
I've recently added a few things to my spare parts bin from the PID for my casting pot that I just completed.
I've got a couple 3 prong female flush mount 110v power outlets. (they came in a 3 pack)
I've got 3 spare probes, one of which is the stubby that came in the PID kit.
I've got a 110v toggle switch that I picked up before finding a lighted rocker switch that I already had.
Ok, I had picked up a $15 hot plate and put together a cover and made it into a mold oven. The hot place has a rheostat control on it and on high the oven reaches 375f ish and kicks off. Then comes back on at about 325f ish.
Anyone following where I'm going with this yet?
So, I'm less than $10 away from building a PID for the mod oven. ;D
The plan is simple.. Order a 400c PID and SSR w/heat sink kit on the cheap. $10 or less without a probe.
I already have everything else. I just need to get inside the hotplate and delete the rheostat control. Run the power cord directly to the heating element and plug into the PID box.
Ain't retirement great?
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How about we call this "PID, rinse and repeat".
Although it may seem like it, this one is going to take longer. Why? Because I went against all my instincts and ordered it from Ali Express. And I only did that because, they didn't require my ID as they tried in the past, they let me pay through paypal and it was $10 and change to my door. On the downside, it's 15+ days delivery from China.
But that's OK.. I ain't going nowhere. ;)
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In the meantime... I think we're gonna need a box....
I had my designs on an old plastic military first aid box for the pot PID before I found the security box I ended up using. So I rounded that up and went to the bench for so hole cutting fun.
That's when I discovered it wasn't tall enough for the PID to fit in the front.
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So, I went on the hunt...
I looked in all the dark places in the Red Shed... nope, nothing here.
Then a walk down to the barn proved fruitless..
I even got busted having a peek in Betty Lou's She Shed... that didn't work out.
Last hope was the bar.. that's where I found the other box so maybe I'll get lucky.
There is a large 4 slider door Pepsi cooler behind the bar where they used to keep cold beer when it was a speak easy. We cleaned it out and stashed hoarding fodder in it. It's a dark and scary place but I was on a mission. ;)
... and there it was. The old cash box from back in the day.
As you can see, it had the change compartment tray that folded out like the old tackle boxes we had as kids. Back before God invented plastic. The Dremel made short work of the rivets.
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This one may even be cooler than the last one. Union, Made in the USA.
That keylock on the front is also a button that has to be pushed to open it.
So, I gathered up what pieces parts that I have on hand and tomorrow I'll begin making holes based on measurements from the other box.
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Tell me I don't know how to have a good time... ;)
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8)
Yup read right into you piding the mold oven.
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Got a message tonight that the PID has shipped.. hope it don't get held in customs too long.
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8)
Yup read right into you piding the mold oven.
Yeah, I made a couple typos back there but that is exactly what I'm doing.. a PID for the mold oven.
NOE recommends cycling new molds at 500f for bake in. This oven will reach that easily when complete where as now, it tops out at 375ish. I will also be able to control the temp of the mold better before starting the casting session. It will also keep me out of Betty Lou's kitchen and the dog house... ;)
Just another layer in total control over the casting process.
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I don't know if others are like me in that I typically take the last 30 minutes or so before I fall asleep at night to kinda review the day and sometimes make a wide plan or set goals for the next day. The next morning I wake up and refine those plans and goals before getting out of bed.
Last night and this morning was no different. My focus was on the mold oven PID and a thought occurred....
This cash box is not huge but it is roomy.. maybe half again the size of the lead pot box.
So why not put both controllers in the same box? There is plenty of room and I've already proven to myself that they don't generate alot of heat so I know that single fan will move plenty of air through the box.
They would each run on individual circuits, each having it's own 110v input and output, SSR, on/off switch and temp probe.
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Now you are thinking with your dipstick Jimmy.
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Yessir.. I've cut and fitted all but the power cord input hole on the lead pot side when Betty Lou called me in for lunch. Once I get the other side cut and fitted for the mold oven side I may go ahead and move the pot PID into the box. When the PID for the mold oven arrives all I will have to do is mount and wire it up.
I didn't sleep well last night... I might take a rare nap.
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More progress..
I cut the opening in the face for the second PID (the oven side). I also cut the square hole and installed the oven side power output 3 prong for the oven. Next I need to cut the round holes on both sides for the conduit connectors for the power input cords. Thank goodness for Dremel tools.
I think I decided to just go with another toggle on/off switch instead of the matching lighted rocker switches. I stopped at the Radio Shack in town and they didn't have the rocker but they do have the toggle for a couple bucks.
I don't really need a lighted switch. If the PIDs are on then the power is on.
Again, each unit will have it's own controller and power. I don't need to have the oven on to run the pot or the pot on to run the oven.
I still haven't decided on using the fan yet. If I do, it will mount inside the box on the back instead out outside on top like it is now.
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Oh yeah, I also had a look inside the hot plate. Easy peasy.. cut the 2 wires leading to the rheostat and wire nut them together. There is a light on the front of the hot plate that will indicate when the PID is supplying power to the element.
Mind you, this will be an oven with the capability of maintaining temperature up to 400c (752f ). Not sure what temp is required for power coating but I do know that the PID has a built in timer that can be set. ;)
Frozen chicken pot pies anyone?
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Well waddaya know...
Betty Lou and I went for a walkabout with the dogs and I stopped by the bar/mancave to grab a screw assortment box I had in there. I opened it up and found another lighted rocker switch.
Decisions, decisions.
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It has been decreed by the airgun gods that a lighted rocker switch is to be used.
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It has been decreed by the airgun gods that a lighted rocker switch is to be used.
You forgot "... so shall it be written, so shall it be done " ;D
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It has been decreed by the airgun gods that a lighted rocker switch is to be used.
You forgot "... so shall it be written, so shall it be done " ;D
2 of them to be exact.... ;D
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And I'm even going to leave the patina finish on this box.
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Productive morning so far...
The oven side lighted rocker switch is installed. Both power input conduit fittings are installed. And the oven side probe is installed.
Once the oven side PID components arrive I'll pull that toggle switch out of the pot side and open the hole for the pot side lighted rocker switch.
I've decided to hold off on dismantling the current pot PID until everything is here to completely assemble this new dual PID box.
Betty Lou has a few small projects she's asked me to do for her.
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Productive morning so far...
The oven side lighted rocker switch is installed. Both power input conduit fittings are installed. And the oven side probe is installed.
Once the oven side PID components arrive I'll pull that toggle switch out of the pot side and open the hole for the pot side lighted rocker switch.
I've decided to hold off on dismantling the current pot PID until everything is here to completely assemble this new dual PID box.
Betty Lou has a few small projects she's asked me to do for her.
Yeah right...
Not being one to leave well enough alone, I went ahead and transferred the pot side of the dual PID into the new box. I really impressed my self that I was able to take everything out of the single box, put it all back into the dual box and remember where every single one of the 40,995 wires went. I got it right the first time, powered it up and the test lamp I plugged into it came on. And the best part, no smoke clouds. ;)
So tomorrow morning I'll turn the pot on without the PID and melt the lead so I can get the probe back in. Then I'll reconnect the PID for a trial run.
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The PID is connected to the pot and back up and running.
I have a question for those who may know...
I was reviewing the PID I ordered from AliExpress and notice I had ordered the 220v version. The pins on the back of the PID controller appear to be the same configuration (pin count and layout) as the 110v unit I run the pot with. The 220v unit is also the REX c-100, same as thee one I have.
Question...
If I wire this new unit the same as I did with 110v on the other, will it work?
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Not sure, but interested.
If you double the voltage, at a certain load, amperage is cut in half (Ohm's Law).
But if your input voltage stays the same (120V) I wonder how a 220V PID controller will react?
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Yeah, not sure either but for the $12 one of these cost, we're gonna find out. ;)
There are 3 verisions, the 110v, the 110v/220v and the 220v. The SSR for all 3 are the same.
I was reading a forum on these things and a guy ordered one of the 110/2200v versions (REX C-100 models).
He said the label on his unit reads 220v. The one I have running the pot reads 110/220v.
These being cheap Chinese unit makes me wonder if they are not all the same with only the label and wiring diagram being different. Nothing is physically different between the 2 units.
Mine is due to arrive in the next couple weeks or so. I guess we'll see.
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I believe it is 100 to 240 volt..
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I believe it is 100 to 240 volt..
Ray, that's my opinion as well.
Like I said, I should have paid closer attention when I ordered it. I was under the impression that all REX C100 models would be 100 to 240.
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Pid is just a switch so a few volts makes it run and the probe turns it on and off.. So it just the way you wire it for what ever country you are in for the voltage there..
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110v goes into the PID via the top 2 pins and out the bottom 2 pins to switch the SSR on and off depending on the set temp setting. Power runs to the unit (element) via the hot wire at the top of the SSR and the neutral wire direct from the power source.
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Dropped a couple hundo .22 magnum pellets in 3 short sessions after I got the PID back up and running. I figured why not, the lead was up to temp.
I got this nailed down pretty good and get very few culls now. Couple more sessions like that and I'll switch over to the .22 hunters from the 2 cav brass mold.
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The stuff came in for the mold oven side of the dual PID box this morning.
Ordered on Jun 5th. ETA was Jul 5th. Arrived this morning via USPS. AliExpress.
But Betty Lou's to do list has me tied up for the next several days and I still have downed trees and limbs to deal with. Another tree came down on the fence from last night's event.
I may get a chance to get it put put in the box early tomorrow morning before she starts issuing the day's marching orders but I'm still waiting for the lighted rocker switch.
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Nice to know that you two made it through the storms ok Bill.
I was thinking of you two today when I heard that the southern part of the state would be in for more weather again today.
Wednesday's weather only delivered 1/3" of rain to us here out of a predicted 3-4". We dodged the bullet.
Stay safe.
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Nice to know that you two made it through the storms ok Bill.
I was thinking of you two today when I heard that the southern part of the state would be in for more weather again today.
Wednesday's weather only delivered 1/3" of rain to us here out of a predicted 3-4". We dodged the bullet.
Stay safe.
Thanks Ron.. other than a couple trees down taking out a couple sections of hog wire fence (easy to repair), a few hours of power outage and lots of standing water, we did ok. Much better than alot of folks around us.
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The Red Shed will get a cool upgrade... literally. The beer fridge from the bar/mancave will be relocated. The small personal 10 can fridge will go to Betty Lou's She Shed and the 2+ case fridge will replace it. And ice... wow, ice in the Red Shed?
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Slipped out to the Red Shed while Betty Lou was shaking out the cob webs. I am confident she'll let me know in her subtile little way when she's motivated enough to start the day. :-\
I hung a 4' flourescent light fixture that I brought from the bar (I bought it) and got it wired in. That eliminated 2 flood bulbs I had in here for lighting. Every kilowatt helps . ;) I have 2 more to replace with 2' LED light bars over the work benches. They are surprisingly bright.
Next my attention turned towards the dual PID box project...
I drilled the hole in the mold oven cover for the probe. Then I temporarily wired in a toggle switch to power the mold oven side PID. I also bypassed the rheostat in the hot plate.
I did a trial run on the PID with a light bulb and a trial run on the hot plate by plugging it directly into a power strip. All systems GO. When the lighted switch arrives I'll just need to reroute a few wires.
Next is to connect the box to the pot and the oven and press play... twice.
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And here all I did this morning was to make sure that the wife was doing ok, and sleeping, then went out ...
Smelted, cleaned and poured 50# of lead into ingots.
Believe it or not, the silicone mini loaf trays make GREAT lead molds!
I have used them twice so far, and they still look brand new.
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I found these neat little guys in a scrap pile, they will make nice melty ingots :)
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=8892)
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I found these neat little guys in a scrap pile, they will make nice melty ingots :)
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=8892)
James what you have found is a 1980 John Wright cookie mold. It's the Gingerbread Man Christmas Cookie mold. Depending on the condition they range from $25 to $50.
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Ha ha... and I thought my corn on the cob was fun. I can just see those little guys melting down into the pot like the Wicked Witch of the West.
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Ron... really? I would think that hot lead would melt the silicone. Hmmmm.
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Ron... really? I would think that hot lead would melt the silicone. Hmmmm.
That's what I thought too, but I saw something on youtube (go figure), and decided to try it.
I ordered a silicone muffin tray from wallyworld, and some (4) cheap mini-loaf ones from china for less than 1/4 what the muffin one cost.
To my surprise, they both came in at about the same time. The mini loaf ones were thicker, and felt like they would do better, so I tried them first, not expecting much.
Low, and behold, they did GREAT.
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I ended up giving the still unused muffin one to my sister-in-law so she can actually use it for its intended purpose. ;)
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Interesting.
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Ha ha... and I thought my corn on the cob was fun. I can just see those little guys melting down into the pot like the Wicked Witch of the West.
https://youtu.be/aopdD9Cu-So
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Contrary to what I expected, I don't see, or feel ANY degradation to the silicone.
They have been used twice so far.
I'll update if/when they start to fail.
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Contrary to what I expected, I don't see, or feel ANY degradation to the silicone.
They have been used twice so far.
I'll update if/when they start to fail.
They put little silicone dots on oven mits and they have no problems.
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Contrary to what I expected, I don't see, or feel ANY degradation to the silicone.
They have been used twice so far.
I'll update if/when they start to fail.
They put little silicone dots on oven mits and they have no problems.
Makes sense.
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I know there is high temp silicone gasket maker rated for 800f , one could possibly make a simple bullet mold even.
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I assume these silicone molds come with some sort of base support. Seems dangerous for pouring lead into otherwise with their typical flimsyness.
I have a silicone ice tray that I can't stand to use that my Sister purchased. It did come with a storage base though. The base is required if wanting to make it to the freezer without a spill, lol.
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LOL... I don't doubt they work but I think I'll stick with my muffin tins and cast iron corn cob mold. By the time I fill them all the lead is solid enough to drop the pucks/cobs and pour another batch if I even have that much wheel weight lead smelted down. Right now I have enough of them to last me quite some time.
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I have one ice tray that makes small cubes I might want to try but I know the walls are so thin it could make for an interesting nuget.
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It seems I fried my hot plate by bypassing the rheostat. It was a cheapo and the wattage was likely too low. Nothing inside the PID box took the hit. I'll have to do some research on scientific type hot plates. Meantime I may just pick up another cheapo just to warm the molds.
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Bill
Would the hot plate from a coffee maker be hot enough?
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Toaster oven..
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I don't think a coffee maker would get hot enough and you can't close the door on a toaster oven door with the mold handles. I wouldn't want the wood handles exposed to 375 degrees.
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Put the handles outside the door and use something to prop the door closed .. The handle will be fine,,
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Put the handles outside the door and use something to prop the door closed .. The handle will be fine,,
Hmmm... wonder if I can modify the door to open from bottom to top. Or even find one that opens that way.
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Very possible .. I have heated my mold this way for years and my handles look like new... I also use the oven for powder coating..
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Thanks Ray..
We have a discount store here in town called Roses Discount. They sell lots of cheap household items.. you know, the kind of stuff you would need if you are setting up a college dorm or your first apartment. Also cheap clothes, shoes, basic hardware and tools. Nothing of high quality. Walmart cheap stuff if you will. This is where I bought that $11 hot plate.... BTW, I see what I did to burn that up... one word.. "polarity". I wired the PID box outlet backwards and ran the current backwards through the element.
Anyways, they had a $20 4 slice toaster oven. It can run up to 400f and be timed or it also has the "stay on" setting. It will also work with the door gaped oven so the wood handle can stay outside the oven. I can make a flap of the 2400f insulation blanket I covered the oven cover I made for the hot plate and cover the gap providing I don't cover the oven's factory vents. Plenty of space to pre heat 3 molds at the same time.
Looks like I'll have a spare PID for the casting pot. ;)
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You can turn it all the way up and use the pid for temp...
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I'm considering that.
But for now I'm going to put the lead pot PID back in the single box and shelf the parts for the mold oven as spares.
If the toaster oven requires that upgrade I'll address it then. As is I can pre heat mold, powder coat and have pizza. ;D
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Knock the glass out , put in a metal Easy Bake like door :)
. . . oh and you might want to eat the pizza first ;)
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=207107.0;attach=435993;image)
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Ray... thanks for the suggestion. That's exactly what I am going to do. There is a foot on the back of this oven so you can tip it up and clean the bread crumbs out through a door in the bottom. I'll take that foot off and use the screw hole to insert the probe into the back of the oven. next I will take the cover off the oven and insulate it with that 2400f insulation blanket I used on the hot plate cover.
I can plug the toaster into the PID box and turn the toaster settings to "toast" which is the highest temp setting and set the timer to "stay on". Then let the PID control the temp. I only pre heat the molds to between 350 and 375 which is well within the oven's 450 range. It's a 1000 watt oven with elements at the top and bottom.
I watched videos on gutting the controls out of the oven and putting the PID inside the box but I don't think I'll go that route.
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Knock the glass out , put in a metal Easy Bake like door :)
. . . oh and you might want to eat the pizza first ;)
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=207107.0;attach=435993;image)
LOL.. I'm just going to let the mold handles hang out the top of the door and fill the gap with insulation blanket.
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Anyways... I'm gonna hit the bed and let visions of mold ovens dance in my head for the next couple hours.
I got fence lines and gates to button up tomorrow.
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Out before daylight this morning before Betty Lou got up and dictated that we get back to the fence project.
I pulled the mold oven PID parts out of the dual box and put it all into the original PID box I made.
Well, not only did I fry the hot plate when I wired it backwards, I took out the SSR as well. The REX C100 PID controller is fine. So I got online and ordered another SSR. $8 and change delivered from NJ USA. Free shipping and 5 days out.
By this time Betty Lou was up and we went back to the fence project. We worked that until the humidity had us melting.
Showered, ate and back to the Red Shed. I pulled the cover off of the toaster oven and wrapped the inner unit with 1/2" 2400f rated appliance insulation. I put the cover back on and added insulation to the bottom and back of the inside of the oven.
I'll just run the oven on it's own power and disconnect the SSR in the box. I can monitor the temps with the PID controller and see how close the toaster oven's temps settings are... just 'cuz I can.
It's a .9 sq ft 1000 watt oven with top and bottom elements. It should heat up pretty fast.
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Yes, that will more than do it !! I usually crack the mold open slightly and then place the middle of the mold directly over the bottom heating element...
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Yes, that will more than do it !! I usually crack the mold open slightly and then place the middle of the mold directly over the bottom heating element...
I also open the mold.
Something else I do... if I add wax or sawdust to the pot I hold the open mold over the smoke.
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Disconnected the SSR and ran the short probe into the back of the oven. PID and oven were otherwise stand alone. I set the oven at 350f and the PID at 177c. I also set the oven to 'stay on". Pressed play on both.
The temp rose slow at first as the elements warmed up. But when it got to around 100c on the PID and thee elements glowed red things began to move pretty quickly. The PID indicated 170c before the oven cycled down the first time. It dropped to 165c when the oven came back on and it rose to 172c this time.
For the rest of the test, maybe 20 minutes or so, the temps cycled between 165ish c and 170ish c.
I noticed a very small whiff of smoke coming from the vent over the controls on the oven but it didn't last long... I think it was just new oven burn in. This was the first time it had run more than a couple minutes to see if it worked when I unboxed it.
I think this is going to work out just fine. I have plenty of the insulation blanket to fill the gaps in the door that the molds will leave.The PID box sits well right on top of the oven and the insulation does a good job keeping the exterior heat down. I'm going to run that muffin fan on the PID box just to be safe.
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Considering doing this...
https://www.instructables.com/PID-Temperature-Controlled-Oven/ (https://www.instructables.com/PID-Temperature-Controlled-Oven/)
Basically just swapping out the thermostat with the PID.
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The SSR came in this morning. I replaced the one that I wired wrong and fried with the hot plate.
I plugged the toaster oven into the box and turned the toaster oven thermostat all the way up and turned the box on with the PID controller set at 177c (350f). The PID and the toaster oven kinda fight each other for control so I need to disconnect the toaster oven thermostat and let the PID run it. Temps were hovering at 155c.
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The SSR came in this morning. I replaced the one that I wired wrong and fried with the hot plate.
I plugged the toaster oven into the box and turned the toaster oven thermostat all the way up and turned the box on with the PID controller set at 177c (350f). The PID and the toaster oven kinda fight each other for control so I need to disconnect the toaster oven thermostat and let the PID run it. Temps were hovering at 155c.
If you don't disconnect the oven thermostat, just set it to maximum temperature. Then the PID will control it. That's what I did with my melting pot. I suppose that would work too with the hot plate.
Just an FYI, I think you can change the PID controller to display F rather than C. On my unit, you press Set, and the button next to it simultaneously for 3 seconds. You should see "Cod" displayed. If you cycle through the options, you will get to the one that controls units. If set to 0 it is in C, 1 changes it to Fahrenheit. The weird display should be nlΓ . The settings are in the "Instrument Engineer parameter menu".
I haven't bothered yet, but I may change mine to F.
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Thanks, I forgot about that second menu.
Yeah, I did set the toaster thermostat all the way up like we do our pots but it's still seems to fight with the PID for control. It's all good, I watched a video on running it off the PID and it just happened to be the exact model oven I have. He removed the thermostat control (dial) and the onboard probe. He then cut the square hole in the panel where the thermostat control was to mount the PID. He left the other control for the timer and on/off control.. I like that idea.
He mounted the SSR and cooling block inside the control area and the fan is mounted to the vented area.
I think I'm going to do mine like that.
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I have 2 of the REX C100 PID and that model does not offer the C to F options. It's all good, I made a chart for C to F. Basically the pot runs at 371c and the mold oven will run at 177c... 700f and 350f repectively.
I took the cover back off the oven and removed the thermostat control. I have my wire diagram laid out. Next I will mark and cut the square hole for the PID to fit in the front of the over where the T control used to be. Then I will mount the heat sink and SSR to a vented area at the back of the control space. There is another vented area in the top of the cover directly over where the heat sink will be. I will mount the fan there.
The braided TC will run out of a fin on the back vent and the probe will mount in the center of the back of the oven.
I did a test and the timer/on/off controller powers the PID as it should. Once the oven is up to temp I can switch over to the timer for up to an hour or I can set it to stay on.
Even with the Red Shed closed up and the fan running across the cool gravel floor, it's still hot out there. I came in for a break.
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After a spell under the A/C I cooled off enough to go back out.
I wired everything up outside of the box, plugged the power cord into a 20a power strip with a reset on it and turned the the timer control to the 'stay on' position.
SUCCESS !!
The elements came to life. I had set the PID to 65c and watched the temp rise to 65c and then blinked on and off trying to maintain.
Couple things I need to do...
Cut and fit the PID.
Mount the heat sink/SSR.
Mount and wire in the 12v transformer and fan.
Put the insulation back on the inner box.
Adjust the PID for a wider temp range. (tuning)
Button everything back up.
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Well, I'm pretty sure I couldn't build a submersible to successfully explore the Titanic but I can build a PID controlled toaster oven apparently. (Too soon?)
I left the cover off so I could watch the firework show if it happened, set the PID to 177c and pressed play.
The show was something less than oohs and aahs, it was actually quite boring. The temp slowly rose to the set temp and stayed right there. I put my hand on the SSR and it was nice and cool. I'll check it again with the cover on and determine if I need the fan at all. After all, the toaster oven is design to run at 400f with an hour long timer running and that's without having insulation between the box and control space.
Pics tomorrow... I didn't have any sweat left in my body to make the effort today.
I'll also fire the whole shebang up tomorrow and cast some pellets.
If and when everything is tested and approved I need to get busy and get that Red Shed whipped into shape. The move from the bar/mancave has it looking like a PODs moving and storage unit that fell off the truck in transit.
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Next I'm going to look at Wayne's method that a few of you have referenced.
I also need to read up on what I need as far as things like Borax and wax (if needed).
I need to learn how to prep and clean.
I still want a hot plate and some way to monitor lead temps.
I think with what I have, as far as lead goes, and the items I have ordered I have enough to dip my toes in.
I'll make some of these .25 pellets and then have a look around for a .22 mould or 2.
Went back and tracking this thread. I'm sure "Wayne's Method" is detailed on the forum.
Any links to that post?
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Next I'm going to look at Wayne's method that a few of you have referenced.
I also need to read up on what I need as far as things like Borax and wax (if needed).
I need to learn how to prep and clean.
I still want a hot plate and some way to monitor lead temps.
I think with what I have, as far as lead goes, and the items I have ordered I have enough to dip my toes in.
I'll make some of these .25 pellets and then have a look around for a .22 mould or 2.
Went back and tracking this thread. I'm sure "Wayne's Method" is detailed on the forum.
Any links to that post?
Here you go https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=179522.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=179522.0)
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The unveiling as promised.
Pic one is the oven coming up to temp and pic two is the oven up to temp with a mold in it.
The 2400f insulation blanket does well to block escaping heat from the gap in the door caused by the mold handles protruding. The oven cycles nicely between 175 and 177 even with the mold in it. As you can se, there is plenty of room to preheat a couple molds at a time.
I don't feel any excessive heat coming from the vents in the control space. The top surface of the oven is warm but not anything near what it would be if operating as it comes out of the box without the insulation. At this point, I'm not going to add the fan. Albeit very little, I don't see a need to draw extra amps to run a fan.
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Nice job. Very cool inserting the PID controller into the oven. Do the mold handles get hot? Let us know how you like it after you use it for a while. For now I'm using an old fashioned open hot plate to keep the mold from chilling. Maybe I'll make a cap for the plate to keep it warmer. I'm wary of making stuff too complicated, since it's more opportunities for me screwing up. Where did you find that white insulation? What's it called?
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The handles get warm but not any more than casting makes them. The blanket helps keep the heat in the oven and off the handles.
I don't remember exactly where I got the insulation but here is an example.
https://www.amazon.com/Ceramic-Insulation-Blanket-QuadraFire-Stoves/dp/B06ZYN21MC (https://www.amazon.com/Ceramic-Insulation-Blanket-QuadraFire-Stoves/dp/B06ZYN21MC)
I think I only paid like $10 for it.
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If you'll remember I did use a hot plate with a cover on it but I fried it when I wired it backwards when I tried to add it to a PID. I also roasted the SSR and had to order a new one for this project. The PId controller itself survived the meltdown.
This set up is great because all I did was eliminated the factory thermostat (rheostat) and replace it with the PID. The PID controller sits in the location where I removed the thermostat control knob.
The factory power indicator light and on/off timer control still turns everything on and off including the PID.
I can set it for "stay on" or set the timer for up to 1 hour then it shuts down. The bell still rings when turning it off or the timed cycle runs out.
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I went to the secondary menu setting on both of the REX C100 PID controllers that I have and neither one has the option to switch from C to F.
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The hot plate setup at one time looked like that robot from Futurama, this just looks like your turkey was just a wee bit too big for the oven ;) 8)
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=207107.0;attach=436390;image)
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Yep, Once I put 2 molds in it at the same time I think I'll call it "The John Madden". 8)
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I cast the first trial run of .25 pellets this morning with the PID controlled pot and mold oven both running.
Everything seems to be working as it should.
I turn the units on, surf the web for 15 - 20 minutes and everything is up to set preset temps and ready to begin casting. Once I cast the 4# pot down to half empty I add the sprues, stick the mold back in the oven to keep it heated and wait 5 minutes or so for the pot to come back up to temp.
Rinse and repeat.
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SUCESS!
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Casting Corner in action.
https://vimeo.com/840560759?share=copy
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I'll set up and do an actual casting video as well.
I'll even narrate other than an Elk hunting video playing in the back ground on Carbon TV. :o
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Better that in the background than "Debbie Loves Dallas". ;D :o
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Nice setup, Bill!
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Just a test.....
https://vimeo.com/841245428?share=copy
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George Lucas would be proud.. ::)
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Looks good from here Bill.
Nice Job on the video.
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It's a work in progress.
I D/L'd a simple movie editor called Mini Tool MovieMaker and I'm messing with that. So far I've clipped both those vids I posted and learned to join them to make a single video.
The plan is to create an entire video showing the setup, the casting, the tumbling and the sorting/weighing/culling.
I also need to learn other features of the video editor such as fading in and out of scenes and maybe some picture in picture for target shooting. This will include the ATN X Sight NV scope and possibly some drone video clips.
I won't post anymore clips until it's complete.
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We had removed our AMD Windows 10 desktop PC and HP inkjet printer out of the bar/mancave and it has been sitting idle in the screen room for the past few days. I just finished relocating the whole shebang into the Red Shed and it has hardwire internet access. It will be much more efficient for making these videos.
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Wonder if the channel name Red Shed Redneck has been taken ??? Been some time since I messed with editing, is fun if time is available to do it 8)
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I d/l'd OpenShot on the pc in the Red Shed. It's a better open source editor but it wouldn't run on this older laptop. I used it when I ran Linux. It has alot more features than this Mini Tool MovieMaker has. MTM also has restrictions unless you pay. OpenShot is the full package. MTM also limits all vids to 2 minutes after your first 3. I might also use YouTube for these type videos. They will let them fly as long as I'm not killing anything :o
I need to ask Wayne what he uses to host his vids when he shows back up.
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Wayne has been using Vemo, ? SP I have one video up there as do you, it is said to be the most airgun friendly, and one could possibly hold an airgun in a live video also ???
Or were you referring to editing programs?
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Yes, he must have a paid subscription to Vimeo because the trial only lets you do 3 unlimited length vids then starts limiting you to 2 minute clips.
I'm surprised I got the squirrel kill shot vid on YouTube and I won't be surprised if they kill it.
Like I said before, I don't post many 'kill' pics or vids anymore because I don't want to appear that I'm trophy killing. I don't eat what I kill, I pest. I posted that one because those 3 squirrels were acting like they were on crack.
I know Paul posts a boatload of his pesting vids on YouTube.
Most if not all of my future vids will be how to's or target shooting.
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You've inspired me to haul out my cast equipment and do a little casting of some.22 cal 30 grain BBT. Finally have a rifle that can shoot them good. My only other.22 is my liberty and the barrel is just to tight for them.
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Wayne uses blender to do his editing.
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Wayne uses blender to do his editing.
Yes he does. He also uses Linux. I did find OpenShot open source for windows 10. I'll have to see if there is a windows 10 Blender open source.
Yes !!! Found it and it appears to be open source.
https://www.blender.org/download/ (https://www.blender.org/download/)
Now I need to cool off and get back to the Red Shed.
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..
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I am new (1yr) to AG and now new to casting.
I just sealed a trade to take me completely out of PB reloading and into casting slugs for PCP AG.
I'm probably going to buy a Lyman "Big Dipper" pot set brand new for my Bismuth casting and keep the new to me Lee pot for recycling pellet trap captures.
The plan is to cast .30cal Rotomix for the Challenger, and .22cal Rotomix Hunter pellets (should drop at 14.2) for hunting season...
Learning from this thread and looking forward to casting.
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Thanks for tagging along Charles...
If you read back or have been following you'll know I am fairly new to casting as well. If you've been casting for your PB guns you probably even have more experience than I do.
This forum is not only a source for gaining and sharing experience for me, it's also entertainment and I tend to goof off alot here. There is good info shared by myself and others but you may have to sort through a little crazy to get to it.
Also, there are many here with way more experience than I have and most likely get better results. I do what works for me until I discover or someone shows me a better way.
Looking forward to your experience.
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Thanks for tagging along Charles...
If you read back or have been following you'll know I am fairly new to casting as well. If you've been casting for your PB guns you probably even have more experience than I do.
This forum is not only a source for gaining and sharing experience for me, it's also entertainment and I tend to goof off alot here. There is good info shared by myself and others but you may have to sort through a little crazy to get to it.
Also, there are many here with way more experience than I have and most likely get better results. I do what works for me until I discover or someone shows me a better way.
Looking forward to your experience.
I reloaded for PBs but hadn't got to casting. Barnes TSX in 223 and Hornady XTP in 10mm fit my needs. I was looking into casting and powder coating 10mm and reloading primers for target ammo before I found AG.
Now I have my 110/12v compressor and molds so technically nothing can "stop" my hobby.
I'm really excited about the process of shooting into a trap and recycling back into slugs.
And having the option to cast PBA is a bonus.
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Looking at these for casting gloves.
opinions or better options?
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When I do wear gloves I wear these, they breath nice, and hold the little bit of heat back.
https://www.amazon.com/Heat-Resistant-Glove-Surface-Handler/dp/B00I13XTFG/ref=asc_df_B00I13XTFG/? (https://www.amazon.com/Heat-Resistant-Glove-Surface-Handler/dp/B00I13XTFG/ref=asc_df_B00I13XTFG/?)
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As ever thanks for saving me time with wisdom James.
Added them gloves to my bottomless Amazon Cart....
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If you wear shorts a T-shirt, flipflops and no gloves you tend to pay more attention to the details, lol. I have been there and know this to be true. Not a grand idea though.
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If you wear shorts a T-shirt, flipflops and no gloves you tend to pay more attention to the details, lol. I have been there and know this to be true. Not a grand idea though.
It's so hot in Georgia I've been known to weedeat in shorts and t-shirt. Never got cut with the chord but have been hit in the shin with all kind of projectiles....
I plan to have by splatter PPE on as a newbee.....
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A leather apron is a nice barrier, and casting and Crocks don't mix ;)
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If you wear shorts a T-shirt, flipflops and no gloves you tend to pay more attention to the details, lol. I have been there and know this to be true. Not a grand idea though.
It's so hot in Georgia I've been known to weedeat in shorts and t-shirt. Never got cut with the chord but have been hit in the shin with all kind of projectiles....
I plan to have by splatter PPE on as a newbee.....
Isn't shorts and T shirt the official weed whacking uniform? Heck, that's what I wear when weed whacking but I do wear shoes. I also cast in the same uniform along with work gloves. I didn't use gloves the last time I did some casting and I ended up with a couple of small burns on my hands but that's because I was pet sitting and forgot them.😕
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I'm not known to use much sense when it comes to PPE. I do wear leather gloves but that's because I have burned my fingers before. I only wear glasses because I can't see diddly without them. But shorts and sleeveless are my standard attire. Long pants usually remain at the back of the closet.
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I found this .pdf manual for the REX-C100 series PID units. It goes into way more detail than any other manual I've seen. I thought it might be useful to some of you. It breaks down the value in each position of the model number.
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Lemme break this down a little...
This is the PID I ordered and received yesterday.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/225465702351?var=524460129088 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/225465702351?var=524460129088)
Just an FYI... I ordered on June 29 and received it on July 10. I got a tracking notice 4 times on June 29 that it was moving around in NYC. I never saw another update to tracking until it arrived in my mailbox. I even have an account with USPS but movement just seemed to stop. I was concerned that in was lost somewhere. ETA was between July 6 and 11. So, in reality, it arrived "on time".
The actual model number of the one I received is REX-C100FK05-V*DN.
Page 1 of the manual I posted above gives the break down of each position in that Model number. The one I was most concerned with was pos 3. Which in my case was 5. The last 2 PID controllers I bought were both 2.
If you look at pg. 10 of the manual it will give you the meaning of this code.
2 = 400c
5 = 1000c
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Another feature of this particular model is that, in the second setup menu, I can change the UNIT value from 0 to 1 which means if set to 1 it changes from C to F on the display. The other 2 models I have will not. They do not have this setting.
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If you wear shorts a T-shirt, flipflops and no gloves you tend to pay more attention to the details, lol. I have been there and know this to be true. Not a grand idea though.
It's so hot in Georgia I've been known to weedeat in shorts and t-shirt. Never got cut with the chord but have been hit in the shin with all kind of projectiles....
I plan to have by splatter PPE on as a newbee.....
Isn't shorts and T shirt the official weed whacking uniform? Heck, that's what I wear when weed whacking but I do wear shoes. I also cast in the same uniform along with work gloves. I didn't use gloves the last time I did some casting and I ended up with a couple of small burns on my hands but that's because I was pet sitting and forgot them.
Shorts a T-shirt and some old crocks is my typical attire for yardwork and casting or any kind or dirty work down here in this 85% humidity in Florida, but it was the same back in Nashville where I moved from. I do wear some safety goggles when weed whacking and one glove temporarily sometimes when casting. I always keep the trimmer spinning away from me and I never sit while casting so I can move back really quickly if needed. Like I said previously this will make one pay close attention to what you're doing while casting. It's like the person on a tightrope without a safety net. So far, I have never been burned too badly.
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I've never been burned from direct contact with hot lead but I have choked up a bit too far on the mold handles and received a blister on my finger through the glove before I realized it was happening.
I also stand so I can move back quickly if I need to.
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Lemme break this down a little...
This is the PID I ordered and received yesterday.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/225465702351?var=524460129088 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/225465702351?var=524460129088)
Just an FYI... I ordered on June 29 and received it on July 10. I got a tracking notice 4 times on June 29 that it was moving around in NYC. I never saw another update to tracking until it arrived in my mailbox. I even have an account with USPS but movement just seemed to stop. I was concerned that in was lost somewhere. ETA was between July 6 and 11. So, in reality, it arrived "on time".
The actual model number of the one I received is REX-C100FK05-V*DN.
Page 1 of the manual I posted above gives the break down of each position in that Model number. The one I was most concerned with was pos 3. Which in my case was 5. The last 2 PID controllers I bought were both 2.
If you look at pg. 10 of the manual it will give you the meaning of this code.
2 = 400c
5 = 1000c
Thanks for that link. Think I will upgrade mine to 1000C. Been really wanting that. Control loops work poorly against a stop - they need headroom to operate properly. My TC is rated to 800C, so should be good enough. Hoping it is a "simple remove and replace", but sometimes those operations don't quite go as planned.
I cast with shorts and teeshirt, because it has been so darned hot. (Or wet cold and rainy, which is no fun.) But I wear good boots a lot. Still, I got burned a couple of times on my arms by some mini-splashes. They took a while to heal. But yeah, crocks are basically just foam and offer zero protection from molten metal of any sort. Learned all about wearing good footwear when welding. You just don't want to get a hot foot from an orange hot ball of steel! Even open pockets like on a shirt are trouble, as they retain those little red hot devils. Back to casting, err no flip flops for me.
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My TC is a 700c.
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My TC is a 700c.
It will work fine - unless you want to melt higher temp metals like copper, silver, gold, iron, etc. The thermocouple would just work on aluminum, as it melts at 660C.
It will be great for casting pellets, etc with practically any casting alloy that I can think of.
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But don't melt aluminum in your pot! The walls surrounding the pot (not the pot itself which is steel) are aluminum. Would be interesting to watch what failed first, but the pot probably wouldn't be useful after that. If the outer wall was upgraded to steel, I guess you could melt aluminum, but I'd want a lot of insulation around it. 660C is very hot 1220F.
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I've recently been running my pot at 370c and my mold oven at 120c. I'm getting great results at those temps with the 4 cav aluminum .25 mold.
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Tracking
Learning
Gloves away from maiden voyage slug casting....
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Probably already posted this but I've never worn gloves while casting, I dont see the need and my hands tell me when things are getting hot.
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Probably already posted this but I've never worn gloves while casting, I dont see the need and my hands tell me when things are getting hot.
It's all good, I never wear safety glasses when shooting airguns.. I wish us both continued good luck. ;)
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I use thin leather gloves and a full face shield... Seen my pot erupt from moisture in the scrap I threw in... Luckily I walked away in time.. But a mess to clean up.. I also have a apron that is fire proof.
I heat all my scrap in my oven before adding back to the pot now..
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I use thin leather gloves and a full face shield... Seen my pot erupt from moisture in the scrap I threw in... Luckily I walked away in time.. But a mess to clean up.. I also have a apron that is fire proof.
I heat all my scrap in my oven before adding back to the pot now..
A similar thing happened to my brother while casting saltwater sinkers using a Lee 10lb. pot. We think he either stirred in some sweat or didn't heat the dipper up before diving in below the surface. Lead covers some of his shed ceiling now. He was very lucky and came out with only a few burns. His shed was trashed with lead splatters. Gotta keep all moisture away or at least just on top until it evaporates before diving below.
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I use thin leather gloves and a full face shield... Seen my pot erupt from moisture in the scrap I threw in... Luckily I walked away in time.. But a mess to clean up.. I also have a apron that is fire proof.
I heat all my scrap in my oven before adding back to the pot now..
Noted and continuing to study before firing up my pot for the first time...
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Been awhile since I posted to this thread. Matter of fact, it's been awhile since I seriously cast any pellets. Just a few here and there as I was testing some PID related stuff.
While I was cleaning and organizing work benches this morning I fired up "Casting Corner". I chose to use the hot plate mold oven with it's new PID instead of the toaster oven unit.
I set the PID at 150c and the temp rose to 375f inside the oven. I had the lead pot set to 675f. Once it was up to temp I poured a couple drops from the .25 4 cav aluminum mold with poor results... so I started making temp adjustments. I suspected the mold was too hot because it seemed like the sprue took longer to solidify and change to a dullish color.
I dropped the mold oven to 120c and that lowered the temp inside to 275ish. I dropped the pot to 650f (the pot PID is changeable to read F and the other 2 are not).
That seems to be some magic numbers because I ran 2 125ish runs and only culled 3 pellets for obvious deforms.
I put them in the tumbler and after 10 minutes they changed to a dull color. After 20 minutes they went to a beautiful shiny silver.
Next I will do a closer inspection and take some weight samples. I usually weigh around one in 5 to 10 depending on the spread. Anything in the 27gr range goes in one tin and anything in the 28gr range goes in another. Anything over or under goes back into the pot. Most drop between 27.30 to 27.70. I keep the 28gr pellets because the Avenger likes them a little heavy. The Hatsan 1KV break barrel and the 2 Sentry HC Deluxe guns do not.
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I had been using some run of the mill gloves for casting. The kind with leather palms and finger tips and canvas on the back of the hands. I don't know if I just wore them out or if a mouse found them good to eat. Either way, the hot sprue plate on one of my molds found that hole and the finger tip that was within.
We have a Co Op in town and I founds some great all leather gloves yesterday. They are a bit stiff and will take some breaking in but they are good and thick. I had to get XXL to fit these clubs I got from my Dad. I was grateful they had 5 sizes to choose from. $20 out the door. No burned fingers = priceless.
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It's been awhile since I did any serious casting. But since setting up a 50yd range I wanted to give some of the 217 20 RF pellets a try. Since I got the 217 24 RF Magnum mold and had such good luck kinda stuck with those. That mold is also aluminum and easier to pour good pellets than the brass. Both are 2 cav molds.
I normally pour the aluminum molds at 660f and preheat the mold to 250 - 275. But the brass mold likes things a bit hotter. I preheat to 350 and bump the pot up to 700. They drop between 19.70 and 20.50 with the long pins. Those weights are after a 20 minute tumble. I put an average of 150 in the tumbler at a time. No SS tumbling pins, just pellets. I cull around 10 - 15 %.
The lead is recycled wheel weights. No idea how pure it is but I sort it before pouring ingots. I also scoop anything out of the smelting pot that don't melt in a timely manner.
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If you have a Prod, try the 20s in it. Mine loves them.
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No PRod but that 1358 shot them one hole at 35yds. I just wish I could figure out that blowback in my face out of the breech. I can't seem to get the barrel out. I suspect the barrel orings.
Knowing at least one gun shoots them I'll drop a good run and try some others. I started a log on them.
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No PRod but that 1358 shot them one hole at 35yds. I just wish I could figure out that blowback in my face out of the breech. I can't seem to get the barrel out. I suspect the barrel orings.
Knowing at least one gun shoots them I'll drop a good run and try some others. I started a log on them.
My Cayden likes them too. I don't think I've tried them in anything else.
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No PRod but that 1358 shot them one hole at 35yds. I just wish I could figure out that blowback in my face out of the breech. I can't seem to get the barrel out. I suspect the barrel orings.
Knowing at least one gun shoots them I'll drop a good run and try some others. I started a log on them.
My Cayden likes them too. I don't think I've tried them in anything else.
Most all my .22 guns like the 217 24 magnums. I also have a couple springers I want to try these Hunters in as well. The goal is to cast all my .22 and .25 pellets and only buy .177 and .20. Controlling the lead pot and mold oven temps for this brass mold is key to good consistent pour. The aluminum molds are much less picky.
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No PRod but that 1358 shot them one hole at 35yds. I just wish I could figure out that blowback in my face out of the breech. I can't seem to get the barrel out. I suspect the barrel orings.
Knowing at least one gun shoots them I'll drop a good run and try some others. I started a log on them.
My Cayden likes them too. I don't think I've tried them in anything else.
Most all my .22 guns like the 217 24 magnums. I also have a couple springers I want to try these Hunters in as well. The goal is to cast all my .22 and .25 pellets and only buy .177 and .20. Controlling the lead pot and mold oven temps for this brass mold is key to good consistent pour. The aluminum molds are much less picky.
I'm right there with you. I'm narrowing down to my favorite guns and I'll probably sell off the rest eventually. I have all of the lead and all of the molds I need for .22 and .25, so I'm good there. I probably have close to 30k .177s I'm probably fine in that department, but I can't resist a good sale and new products. This is probably a good thing because I've really become obsessed with .177 again.
I'm probably going to get rid of my brass molds. I prefer aluminum.
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Let me know what molds you decide to get rid of, I may be interested.
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Let me know what molds you decide to get rid of, I may be interested.
My only brass airgun mold is the 22 grain .25 wadcutter. The others are PB molds.
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Yeah ok, I had that mold and none of my .25 guns shoot the wadcutters well.
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Yeah ok, I had that mold and none of my .25 guns shoot the wadcutters well.
My .25 Bandit is the only one I have that shoots them well. I've got to tuned up now and it's shooting too hot for them though.
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Morning...
Been awhile for this thread. I haven't been casting much lately because well frankly, not many of the guns I own like the cast pellets as I had hoped so I haven't needed to add to the stock pile.
In the past I was never really able to master Wayne's method of pressure casting. I don't know if it's due to the lack of smooth shoulder rotation in my totally replaced left shoulder (no rotator cuff attached) or what the issue is. But I'm going to go at it today with great determination. Many others are having good success with this method.
I have the propane heat cranked up in the shop and the PIDs running bringing things up to temp. Weight consistency has been the main issues in the past with as much as .9gr variances.
I'll be pouring the NOE 2 cav brass 217 20 RF mold.
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While I was letting a fresh batch of cast pellets tumble I set up to weigh and sort some of the 3# of magnums I had cast previously.
I have the change tray out of an old cash box with the compartments labelled for sorting. I get the best results with the guns that shoot these well at weights between 22.20 and 22.39. One level up is 22.40 - 22.59 and the next level down is 21.90 - 22.19. Anything above or below goes back in the pot.
I'm also monitoring the GTA and streaming Shot Show 2024.
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Bill, thanks for this post. It looks like fun times you got going on there. I haven't cast in over a year now. I just have too many other priorities currently after my move to P'cola. I am still focused on casting and air gunning and am keeping this in mind as I setup a new shop.
It looks like you have some fins going on with those cast unless my eyes are playing games. This typically means the mold/melt is too hot or you got in a hurry, or the mold needs some TLC. I have been there and done that a few times. Either way it's just nice to see someone casting some lead. I'll get back to it eventually.
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Yup due for several casting sessions here also, have a .510, and a .303 mold that needs to get broke in and field tested yet, then catch up on my smaller calibers, that I have pretty much every style of pellet and slug in, including my beagled .172 to .178 18.5gr. slug mold.
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Bill, thanks for this post. It looks like fun times you got going on there. I haven't cast in over a year now. I just have too many other priorities currently after my move to P'cola. I am still focused on casting and air gunning and am keeping this in mind as I setup a new shop.
It looks like you have some fins going on with those cast unless my eyes are playing games. This typically means the mold/melt is too hot or you got in a hurry, or the mold needs some TLC. I have been there and done that a few times. Either way it's just nice to see someone casting some lead. I'll get back to it eventually.
You are right Keith. I need to scrub and wax my molds. I also need to polish the pins.
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Bill, thanks for this post. It looks like fun times you got going on there. I haven't cast in over a year now. I just have too many other priorities currently after my move to P'cola. I am still focused on casting and air gunning and am keeping this in mind as I setup a new shop.
It looks like you have some fins going on with those cast unless my eyes are playing games. This typically means the mold/melt is too hot or you got in a hurry, or the mold needs some TLC. I have been there and done that a few times. Either way it's just nice to see someone casting some lead. I'll get back to it eventually.
You are right Keith. I need to scrub and wax my molds. I also need to polish the pins.
That's still part of the fun. I've never heard of waxing the molds. What's involved with doing that and the benifits?
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Bill, thanks for this post. It looks like fun times you got going on there. I haven't cast in over a year now. I just have too many other priorities currently after my move to P'cola. I am still focused on casting and air gunning and am keeping this in mind as I setup a new shop.
It looks like you have some fins going on with those cast unless my eyes are playing games. This typically means the mold/melt is too hot or you got in a hurry, or the mold needs some TLC. I have been there and done that a few times. Either way it's just nice to see someone casting some lead. I'll get back to it eventually.
You are right Keith. I need to scrub and wax my molds. I also need to polish the pins.
That's still part of the fun. I've never heard of waxing the molds. What's involved with doing that and the benifits?
"Waxing the mold" may have been a bit misleading. Once the mold is cleaned and heated up I just touch the alignment pins and the pivot screw of the sprue cutter plate with a candle so they move smooth. Careful not to get any wax into the cavities. Just a touch works.
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Bill, thanks for this post. It looks like fun times you got going on there. I haven't cast in over a year now. I just have too many other priorities currently after my move to P'cola. I am still focused on casting and air gunning and am keeping this in mind as I setup a new shop.
It looks like you have some fins going on with those cast unless my eyes are playing games. This typically means the mold/melt is too hot or you got in a hurry, or the mold needs some TLC. I have been there and done that a few times. Either way it's just nice to see someone casting some lead. I'll get back to it eventually.
You are right Keith. I need to scrub and wax my molds. I also need to polish the pins.
That's still part of the fun. I've never heard of waxing the molds. What's involved with doing that and the benifits?
"Waxing the mold" may have been a bit misleading. Once the mold is cleaned and heated up I just touch the alignment pins and the pivot screw of the sprue cutter plate with a candle so they move smooth. Careful not to get any wax into the cavities. Just a touch works.
Gotcha. I have been using a full synthetic two-cycle oil for this purpose. I just put some on a Q-Tip tip and touch those areas.
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Fellow seniors you have dragged me into the latest rabbit hole..casting.
Today I cast my first slugs with the NOE68 30 caliber mold.
As suspected I made every mistake with the first two dozen.
At first I had a small gap in closing the mold. Left a vertical line in the 66+gr drops.
I also had some not formed heads (air intrusion I guess).
I only had a small amount in the bottom of my Lee smelting pot so I tried to bottom pour into my laddle then pressure cast...took me some special techniques to get the laddle cast slug out of the laddle...lol
I ended up using the bottom pour and my last dozen IIDMP cast at 62gr .300.
I have 2 dozen which should give me one mag to chrono with the 70mm hammer spring (105+fpe) and another mag to see how they group.
My theory is if the 47.2 NSAs at 1,000+fps won't group, these at 62gr should group and still be at or above 850fps allowing them to still expand :-)
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It's a learning curve, you'll get there.
You might want to pull the wood handles of your mold back out the door of the toaster oven. They will burn.
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I did think about that. All the pre-heating after the photo the handles wood was out of the door.
Practice will make perfect. Thanks to the forum for all the tips. I think I'm going for the 10 pounds for $40 I saw on Amazon...that will allow me to start with a near full pot.
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I did think about that. All the pre-heating after the photo the handles wood was out of the door.
Practice will make perfect. Thanks to the forum for all the tips. I think I'm going for the 10 pounds for $40 I saw on Amazon...that will allow me to start with a near full pot.
If you're gonna stick with casting your own, you might want to try these guys https://www.rotometals.com/cut-in-half-lead-pig-ingot-42-47-pounds-99-9-with-freight-included/
They are a reputable vendor, ship very fast and their pure lead is indeed pure!
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Welcome to the rabbit hole of casting. Like has already been said Rotometals is a good source for commercial lead. I would recommend the 1 to 40 lead. It has just a little antimony (2.5% tin) in it to help the lead fill out the mold better.
https://www.rotometals.com/1-to-40-bullet-alloy-ingot-5-pounds-97-5-lead-2-5-tin/
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Good deal posted in the what did you order thread!
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Ambient temps in the garage are just too low here at this time.
Once it warms up I will try my .22 mold casting again.
The .457 is a walk in the park compared to the .22 with the pins giving me the major headache.
::)
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Ambient temps in the garage are just too low here at this time.
Once it warms up I will try my .22 mold casting again.
The .457 is a walk in the park compared to the .22 with the pins giving me the major headache.
::)
Hmm I have heard others have that issue also...
(https://miro.medium.com/v2/resize:fit:720/format:webp/1*3RStda7-osT2a2KdHfmNAg.jpeg)
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Got the heat on in the shop this morning. Once it warms up in there I'll put a pan of water on the mold oven hot plate and add some Dawn. It's mold scrubbing day.
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Ambient temps in the garage are just too low here at this time.
Once it warms up I will try my .22 mold casting again.
The .457 is a walk in the park compared to the .22 with the pins giving me the major headache.
::)
Molds with smaller cavities struggle to maintain a consistent temperature even with warmer weather. A hotplate really helps. Pouring larger sprues will help too. I also keep a small butane torch handy to keep the pins hot on my pellet molds. If I start seeking wrinkles in my skirts I put some heat on the pins.
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Thanks Ed
That is exactly what I have been struggling with. Also tried turning my Lee pot temp up a bit, better but then winter set in.
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Just finished doing a complete clean on my 217 .20 RF brass mold.
Hot water, Dawn and a nylon brush. I put the pins in my cordless drill and spun them in steel wool to polish them up. I made sure they fit snug but spun with my fingers in the pin holes. Then I set the depth of the pins.
I cleaned up the top of the mold and sprue cutter plate with a fine die polishing stone.
Got the pot and mold oven coming up to temp now and will make a sample run.
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Bill that is my exact mold.
You may have been influential in my choice, if I recall.
Of the 3 pin sizes provided, which are you using?
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Bill that is my exact mold.
You may have been influential in my choice, if I recall.
Of the 3 pin sizes provided, which are you using?
I use the longest pins in this one. I want my pellets to drop as close to 20gr as I can get. My sample this morning dropped between 19.90 and 20.10. I need to bump the lead temp up a bit for the brass mold. I run around 650 for the aluminum molds and that is was I was pouring last. Next run I'll bump to 700-720.
I also plugged the bottom pour and dip from the top. The probe is in the bottom of the pot so it's possible I'm not getting quite as high temps from the top. I preheat the mold to 325ish.
One thing I did notice this morning.. The pellets were dropping when I opened the mold. I was tapping them out before I cleaned it.
I need to make a good 100 - 150 drop run to really see how it's running. That's my typical run between reloads on the pot.
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Ambient temps in the garage are just too low here at this time.
Once it warms up I will try my .22 mold casting again.
The .457 is a walk in the park compared to the .22 with the pins giving me the major headache.
::)
Molds with smaller cavities struggle to maintain a consistent temperature even with warmer weather. A hotplate really helps. Pouring larger sprues will help too. I also keep a small butane torch handy to keep the pins hot on my pellet molds. If I start seeking wrinkles in my skirts I put some heat on the pins.
Good tip. I keep a torch handy myself and use it periodically during my casts when things start going south with the pins.
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Tracking.
I have the .217 RF20 and .217 17gr WC 4 cavity
Once I get my skill up on the NOE68 30 cal I was going to try and cast some 17gr WC for the backyard
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I was fortunate enough to have another member send me several of his molds on loan so I could cast and sample pellets in my arsenal to help me decide what to purchase. Wadcutters didn't shoot well enough in my guns to make that purchase. They may work out better for others.
If I had the money to invest I would get into swaging.
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Longest pins are the hardest to cast, but makes the most accurate pellets, slugs I like the cup point for ease of casting.
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Wadcutters didn't shoot well enough in my guns to make that purchase. They may work out better for others.
Someone told me that .22 pellet molding would frustrate me and not be worth the effort...at 2-4 cents for production .22s I'll experiment but probably keep buying tins of 250. The 30cal NOE seamed reasonable and learnable.
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Yeah.. we can still find affordable .22 pellets.
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Main reason I got into casting, was to have affordable slugs, and big bore pellets, now even slugs are not all that expensive. But next time a shortage happens I will be set.
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The hot plate mold oven wouldn't heat up yesterday. I plugged a light into the PID and it works fine so the issue is in the hot plate itself. I'll open it up and see if it's just a wire or if it's toast... lol.. he said "toast".
These hot plates are like $11 at the local discount store.
The PID toaster oven is still working great so at least I'm not dead in the water.
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I have 2 .22 molds. The 20 grain hunter is a joy to cast with and produces an accurate pellet. The wadcutter, not so much. I'll keep them both in case they decide lead pellets are too dangerous for us mortals to use and ban production.
My .25 27 grain hunter mold has definitely saved me a lot of money. It allows and me to plink with and enjoy my quarter bores more than I would be able to if I had to buy commercial.
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I have 2 .22 molds. The 20 grain hunter is a joy to cast with and produces an accurate pellet. The wadcutter, not so much. I'll keep them both in case they decide lead pellets are too dangerous for us mortals to use and ban production.
My .25 27 grain hunter mold has definitely saved me a lot of money. It allows and me to plink with and enjoy my quarter bores more than I would be able to if I had to buy commercial.
Ed, is the 20 gr hunter mold brass or aluminum?
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After coffee and a shower I headed out to the Red Shed with every intention of cleaning and organizing. My choice of starting points led me smack dab in the middle of Casting Corner where the nonfunctioning hot plate mold oven lives. Well, I just can't have a nonfunctioning hot plate mold oven. :-\
So I opened it up to find a burnt wire. I should have eliminated these smaller insulated wires to begin with but I just wire nutted them in when I bypassed rheostat switch. So I cut all that out and wired directly from the power cord to the element terminals.
Back in bidness.. ;D The oven came up to 325f and the PID controlled it plus and minus 10 degrees.
Now maybe I can get to that cleaning and organizing.. until.... :-\
Yeah, probably until the mail lady drops off the new Maple mag for the NoDoze.
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I have 2 .22 molds. The 20 grain hunter is a joy to cast with and produces an accurate pellet. The wadcutter, not so much. I'll keep them both in case they decide lead pellets are too dangerous for us mortals to use and ban production.
My .25 27 grain hunter mold has definitely saved me a lot of money. It allows and me to plink with and enjoy my quarter bores more than I would be able to if I had to buy commercial.
Ed, is the 20 gr hunter mold brass or aluminum?
Aluminum. I only have one brass mold and I don't like it.
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Yeah, brass is a bit finicky. I have way better results with the .22 magnum and .25 hunter molds... both aluminum.
From what I've read and watched on video, brass molds like to pour at higher temps than aluminum. I watch one guy that pours his bullets in a brass mold at 800 degrees. IIRC he pre heated his mold to 380.
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Yeah, brass is a bit finicky. I have way better results with the .22 magnum and .25 hunter molds... both aluminum.
From what I've read and watched on video, brass molds like to pour at higher temps than aluminum. I watch one guy that pours his bullets in a brass mold at 800 degrees. IIRC he pre heated his mold to 380.
They're heavy too. The weight gets old in hurry on long casting sessions.
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I rest my molds on top of the pot while I ladle pour so the weight don't bother me. Also it's only a 2 cav mold.
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Quick question, and it may have already been addressed in this awesome thread.
If your lead has a "rainbow" appearance is that too hot?
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I don't think I've ever seen thee rainbow in my lead. I wonder it that's because I never had it too hot or if it's because the wheel weight lead I use is not 99.9% pure lead.
Scott, you're not using a PID are you?
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No PID here. Just the knob on my Lee 10# pot.
I was last casting about "6" and turned it up to "7" to try and get a better fill on that .22 mold
The lead took on a rainbow sheen in the pot, wondering if I went too much.
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Oh wait... I have to take back what I said. I do see a rainbow when I add a pinky nail of bees wax. But it goes away when I pull the drose off.
I forgot because I mostly use saw dust instead of wax.
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Quick question, and it may have already been addressed in this awesome thread.
If your lead has a "rainbow" appearance is that too hot?
You can see rainbows in molten lead anywhere above 621°F (leads melting point). It's basically lead carbonate (a thin film) which forms in lead heated above 621°F. It's the refraction of light reflecting off of this film. Impurities can affect the colors in the rainbow appearance. It's thought of as a protection layer on the surface of the lead like oil on top of water. It's nothing to be concerned with.
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No PID here. Just the knob on my Lee 10# pot.
I was last casting about "6" and turned it up to "7" to try and get a better fill on that .22 mold
The lead took on a rainbow sheen in the pot, wondering if I went too much.
My ole girl Lee pot was running 8 on the dial which I felt was too hot, but with only a small amount in the bottom the lead deformed but didn't liquify at 6....I'll try 7 and a longer wait time with more material when my Rotometals arrives....I will do a run of 30cal and then try the 17gr .22 WCs, if they group MOS that might be my plinking ammo for the backyard. Anybody ever shoot a 17gr out of say a Notos at one of those ".177 only" resetable trap boxes?
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These PID controllers are so cheap and easy to build. The hardest part is waiting 10 days or so for the parts to arrive from AliExpress. But for $30 or less you can take all the guess work out of your temps.
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And get a cheap lead pot thermometer ;) Guessing by dial numbers does not work, just like asking what pellets my gun likes best, you need to get a lead pot crony :)
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Definitely focus on building a PID controller. It is of my opinion that the more consistent every aspect of your casting adventure is the more consistent the outcome will be. I don't think the lead fills out the mold the same way with vary temperatures. It seems there are larger swings in the weights in my testing/casting.
Here's the PID controller and YT video links I used to build my PID controller. I just used a used computer P/S box I found on eBay on the cheap.
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=158723.msg155780761#msg155780761
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Definitely focus on building a PID controller. It is of my opinion that the more consistent every aspect of your casting adventure is the more consistent the outcome will be. I don't think the lead fills out the mold the same way with vary temperatures. It seems there are larger swings in the weights in my testing/casting.
Here's the PID controller and YT video links I used to build my PID controller. I just used a used computer P/S box I found on eBay on the cheap.
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=158723.msg155780761#msg155780761
Tracking - parts list typed out - garage dig this weekend....the AliExpress
I could also use the PID to control my toaster oven for Kydex warming...hmm
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I've got 3 of them that I built.
1 runs the hot plate mold oven. 1 runs the pot and the 3rd one is actually built right into the toaster oven.
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I've got 3 of them that I built.
1 runs the hot plate mold oven. 1 runs the pot and the 3rd one is actually built right into the toaster oven.
Love the ammo box and the toaster. I've got an ABS project box in my AliExpress cart for now until I do my garage treasure/easter egg hunt. I have a Good Will Toaster oven and I really like what you did and all the other knobs are pretty much useless to me so having temp control that tight for molds and kydex seams like a no brainer....the pid with solid state relay kits are like $7 from China on AliEx. Pretty sure I'm gonna clone your Frankentoaster idea...respect!
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Like a child with a basket of Easter candy I ran home to smelt some .30 cal slugs with my new RotoMetals ingots. I cast 84 slugs and kept 62 for 73.81% acceptable without the PID. Excited to see what QA/QC looks like once I build the PID for the pot. The NOE 68 with HP pin dropped at avg 63.14gr (for the 62 keepers) with an ES of 1.6gr or 2.53%. That should be acceptable for hunting so those slugs will get lubricated and then used for hammer spring test/tune and hopefully a decent group. I believe with the PID I should get 63.0 to 63.4 with a median of 63.2. Continuing to track this thread and learn.
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Charles...
Here is a thread that another member and I detailed the process we went through when building a couple PID controllers. The pot and toaster oven I built are included in the thread. Lots of good info in the thread you should find useful. If you are going to do a toaster oven pay particular attention to the to the part about insulating it and filling the gap left in the door when the mold is in the oven. If you don't fill the gap in the door you'll melt the bezel on your PID like I did.
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=208108.msg156449243#msg156449243
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Charles...
Here is a thread that another member and I detailed the process we went through when building a couple PID controllers. The pot and toaster oven I built are included in the thread. Lots of good info in the thread you should find useful. If you are going to do a toaster oven pay particular attention to the to the part about insulating it and filling the gap left in the door when the mold is in the oven. If you don't fill the gap in the door you'll melt the bezel on your PID like I did.
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=208108.msg156449243#msg156449243
That's very helpful! As I say tracking....I will dig into those links. Pretty sure I'll end up with the toaster and project box PID as I put 2 ($6 each) PID kits in my AliEx cart..tomorrow after work I'll shuffle through Lowe's and maybe NAPA for some of the misc. parts and some food grade silicone spray. The test slugs got Pam Spray Olive Oil with a piece of towelette in the tin
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The toaster oven is pretty slick. I just use a hotplate (solid single burner under $20) to heat my molds up. That said I also have NOE to drill all of my molds and I use the digital thermometer he sells to know the mold temperatures. Just a different way to skin the cat so to speak.
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Bill,
I dug through your thread and made some adjustments to my AliEx cart...the other thread Utube I based on had a 20a main power fuse and 1a fuse for the PID. I deleted my fuse holders and added a 20a push button circuit breaker and the smallest was 3a for the PID so I'll have 3 buttons on the front of my unit.
The other Utube didn't have a fan just the heat sink, but $6.95 is cheap insurance for a 60mmx60mmx25mm fan. It might change the size of box I have in the cart or may need some more scrounging. I am considering replacing my glass door to my eazybake with a sheet of aluminum with slots cut in for the handles and then some of that insulation on the "face towards man" side of the door. I don't need to see the "cake" in the oven.....I might want to see Kydex in the oven so still thinking that through....I just upsized my box to allow room for the fan....Again thanks for going before others and sharing your experiences!
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Welcome...
I plug into power strips with circuit breakers.
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I ordered 5# of 99.9% pure lead ingots from Rotometals. I want to see if I get better results for my .22 and .25 pellets than I do with the wheel weight lead. I have no idea what % my wheel weight ingots are. I am positive they are not 99.9%.
I'll empty and clean my pot and get a clean start when the lead arrives. I may even change the pot back to bottom pour. I'll build a slide for the molds.
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I ordered 5# of 99.9% pure lead ingots from Rotometals. I want to see if I get better results for my .22 and .25 pellets than I do with the wheel weight lead. I have no idea what % my wheel weight ingots are. I am positive they are not 99.9%.
I'll empty and clean my pot and get a clean start when the lead arrives. I may even change the pot back to bottom pour. I'll build a slide for the molds.
Not a bad test to do. Pure lead is quite soft though, so one has to be gentle when handling and storing. Not sure about tumbling them either. You might consider testing the 1 to 40 lead they have also. It only contains 2.5% tin to help with fill out and better handling. It's still soft and expands very well. They always flatten out like a pancake for me, but I don't shoot anything under 30 FPE.
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Thanks Keith... I should order a test kit to see what I have in this wheel weight lead.
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I ordered 5# of 99.9% pure lead ingots from Rotometals. I want to see if I get better results for my .22 and .25 pellets than I do with the wheel weight lead. I have no idea what % my wheel weight ingots are. I am positive they are not 99.9%.
I'll empty and clean my pot and get a clean start when the lead arrives. I may even change the pot back to bottom pour. I'll build a slide for the molds.
Not a bad test to do. Pure lead is quite soft though, so one has to be gentle when handling and storing. Not sure about tumbling them either. You might consider testing the 1 to 40 lead they have also. It only contains 2.5% tin to help with fill out and better handling. It's still soft and expands very well. They always flatten out like a pancake for me, but I don't shoot anything under 30 FPE.
I like the bottom pour. Got my pot on the cheap cause the previous owner hated it and swore by laddle....YMMV.
Tracking again and the idea for the slides is spot on, I had some large goober sprus...lol. I was kinda missing my PB tumbler, but I don't think I'll need to tumble any of my or NSA slugs.....Good to hear the 40to1 still expand and stand up better to handling. My slugs will be for the 90+fpe 30cal so I could probably pour the 40to1 mix from RotoMetals, which is the other reason I started with just 10 pounds of 99.9 instead of a full pig....From my PB boolits trolling your wheel weight scraps should be even harder than 40to1. Many of them cast WW without HP and water quenching for weight retention and bone-crushing ability (high shoulder shot)
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I melted the lead and dumped it into muffins and cleaned out the pot. Them I put the bottom pour stem back in it. I put one puck back in for a test and it works like it should. Tomorrow I'll come up with a slide. I have a low drill press vise I will probably use.
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I like using the bottom gravity pour spout on my Lee 20lb pot for a couple of reasons. First, I can adjust the flow rate with the adjustment screw for consistency as the level in the pot drops. Second, with the Lee slide adaptor, all pours are at the same distance from the spout, so the lead enters the mold slots at the same temperature for better consistency. Plus, I can keep the mold level. I can also easily over run the mold slots a little more to heat up the sprue plate more when needed. I find with the aluminum molds if I alternate the pours from front to back and back to front every so often on a four port the mold temps stay more uniform across the mold. At near 800° the lead is cooling off fast after exiting the spout. I even place tiles or wood around the bottom sides of the pot to help maintain the temp better from spout to mold. Any wind and consistency go out the window and the spout could seize up. I know the ladle guys who cast outdoors will laugh at me, but my weights are very consistent, and I don't have to toss too many back into the pot. I do have a ladle and sometimes I also pressure pour. It just depends on how I feel or what I want to do on any given casting day.
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I've been using Wayne's pressure pour method since I started casting and as long as I keep the lead and mold temps some what close they turn out fine.
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I did my setup in a controlled environment, after having poor results trying it at first in a drafty garage, now I have an old range hood, with added high volume blower linked in the ducting. This gives me constant results.
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Yep, I'm keeping an eye out for an old range hood to repurpose. It's spring time and that's when folks around here put junk at the side of the road for collection.
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5# 99.9% lead came in from RotoMetals. I cleaned out the pot and melted the ingots in but have yet to pour anything. 70% + chance of rain predicted for today so I might get to pour some today being confined to indoor activities.
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Newer wheel weights contain a lot of zinc... Use pure lead or 1:40... alloys from wheel weight should not be used in air guns IMHO.
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Got a 50 pellet run of the .22 20gr in the tumbler now. They are from the 99.9% Rotometals pure lead.
I ran they in the 2 cav brass mold pre heated to 325f and the 10# pot is running at 700f.
We'll see.
I will say this.... they are some shiny pellets. Even the sprue is alot shinier than the wheel weight lead.
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Got a 50 pellet run of the .22 20gr in the tumbler now. They are from the 99.9% Rotometals pure lead.
I ran they in the 2 cav brass mold pre heated to 325f and the 10# pot is running at 700f.
We'll see.
I will say this.... they are some shiny pellets. Even the sprue is alot shinier than the wheel weight lead.
Tracking. I'm curious how those 20gr 99.9pure are gonna group. Many have told me not to bother casting .22cal. With the PID and pre-heat I'm sure yours are dropping at consistent weight and very few "recasts." I have the same NOE mold so curious how it works out for you...
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I now see why the previous owner was a ladlecaster. My pot stopped bottom pouring as I believe the opening mechanism is clogged/needs cleaning :-(
Of course I have like a dozen 63.2gr and need to chrono test the new 30cal hammer springs.....
I tried to ladle and pressure pour and got another half ladle shaped casting...lol
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I sorted and weighed the 50+ test run last night after tumbling them. I lost about 10% in culling and the rest came in between 19.50 and 20.50. I think I'll clean and run a saample of the 217 24 RF 2 cav aluminum mold today. Aluminum molds are much easier to pour. If it pours good I may have to scrape up the funds to order the 20gr aluminum mold. I wish NOE had the 4 cav in stock but they only have to 2 cav. The only problem with these small 4 cav molds is getting all 4 pins set exactly the same for consistent weights throughout the run.
I check that brass mold before the run and it was so close and I was shocked that weights varied as much as they did.
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I have heard that zinc will "poison" lead. More commonly, brass, which is an alloy of copper and zinc, is the source of the zinc that "poisons" the lead. I have read that lump Sulfur, broken into pieces, will adhere to the zinc and then can be skimmed off to clean up WW lead.
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I have heard that zinc will "poison" lead. More commonly, brass, which is an alloy of copper and zinc, is the source of the zinc that "poisons" the lead. I have read that lump Sulfur, broken into pieces, will adhere to the zinc and then can be skimmed off to clean up WW lead.
NOE sells ALOT of brass molds.
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I just ran 2 50ct runs in the 217 24 RF aliminum (Magnum). With the long pins I got between 22.00 and 22.40 with 10% cull. The 10% cull was probably my fault for poor bottom pour. I missed the hole or poured to fast and splashed out.
The 2nd batch of 50 is in the tumbler. I tumble for 20 minutes give or take and they come out looking like little shiny diamonds.
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I have heard that zinc will "poison" lead. More commonly, brass, which is an alloy of copper and zinc, is the source of the zinc that "poisons" the lead. I have read that lump Sulfur, broken into pieces, will adhere to the zinc and then can be skimmed off to clean up WW lead.
NOE sells ALOT of brass molds.
My reference was to removing zinc mixed in with molten lead when using wheel weights. A bit different than a brass mold at much cooler temperatures.
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I have heard that zinc will "poison" lead. More commonly, brass, which is an alloy of copper and zinc, is the source of the zinc that "poisons" the lead. I have read that lump Sulfur, broken into pieces, will adhere to the zinc and then can be skimmed off to clean up WW lead.
NOE sells ALOT of brass molds.
My reference was to removing zinc mixed in with molten lead when using wheel weights. A bit different than a brass mold at much cooler temperatures.
Yep, thought about that after I hit send.
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I have heard that zinc will "poison" lead. More commonly, brass, which is an alloy of copper and zinc, is the source of the zinc that "poisons" the lead. I have read that lump Sulfur, broken into pieces, will adhere to the zinc and then can be skimmed off to clean up WW lead.
NOE sells ALOT of brass molds.
My reference was to removing zinc mixed in with molten lead when using wheel weights. A bit different than a brass mold at much cooler temperatures.
Yep, thought about that after I hit send.
You're fired, lol. It was/is an interesting thought though. I'm not a metallurgy expert by any stretch.
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I have heard that zinc will "poison" lead. More commonly, brass, which is an alloy of copper and zinc, is the source of the zinc that "poisons" the lead. I have read that lump Sulfur, broken into pieces, will adhere to the zinc and then can be skimmed off to clean up WW lead.
NOE sells ALOT of brass molds.
My reference was to removing zinc mixed in with molten lead when using wheel weights. A bit different than a brass mold at much cooler temperatures.
Yep, thought about that after I hit send.
You're fired, lol. It was/is an interesting thought though. I'm not a metallurgy expert by any stretch.
Yeah, I don't want to be sending any poison pellets downrange.. :o
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I have heard that zinc will "poison" lead. More commonly, brass, which is an alloy of copper and zinc, is the source of the zinc that "poisons" the lead. I have read that lump Sulfur, broken into pieces, will adhere to the zinc and then can be skimmed off to clean up WW lead.
NOE sells ALOT of brass molds.
My reference was to removing zinc mixed in with molten lead when using wheel weights. A bit different than a brass mold at much cooler temperatures.
Yep, thought about that after I hit send.
You're fired, lol. It was/is an interesting thought though. I'm not a metallurgy expert by any stretch.
Yeah, I don't want to be sending any poison pellets downrange.. :o
LOL. From what I am understanding the zinc pools within the lead and will leave pockets in the cast making the ammo vary in weight and balance along the way.
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Zinc melts at 787F. I never run anything that hot. I sort all the wheel weights and only heat until the lead melts. Then I scoop everything else out and use wx and/or sawdust to pull any drose off before pouring ingots. Most wheel weights have a code on them.
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I just ran 2 50ct runs in the 217 24 RF aliminum (Magnum). With the long pins I got between 22.00 and 22.40 with 10% cull. The 10% cull was probably my fault for poor bottom pour. I missed the hole or poured to fast and splashed out.
The 2nd batch of 50 is in the tumbler. I tumble for 20 minutes give or take and they come out looking like little shiny diamonds.
I’m sure you have mentioned it before somewhere but what tumbler and media you using?
Thanks,
Dave
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I just ran 2 50ct runs in the 217 24 RF aliminum (Magnum). With the long pins I got between 22.00 and 22.40 with 10% cull. The 10% cull was probably my fault for poor bottom pour. I missed the hole or poured to fast and splashed out.
The 2nd batch of 50 is in the tumbler. I tumble for 20 minutes give or take and they come out looking like little shiny diamonds.
I’m sure you have mentioned it before somewhere but what tumbler and media you using?
Thanks,
Dave
Walmart cheapy... I don't use any media.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Maxx-Explore-Rock-Tumbler-Kit-Durable-Gem-Polisher-Children-Teens-Adults-Seniors-8/460026892?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227460026892_14069003552_202077872&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=42423897272&wl4=pla-295289030566&wl5=9012797&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=460026892&veh=sem&gad_source=1
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I ended up putting one wrap of electrical tape under the rubber belt so it wouldn't skip teeth while turning.
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I just ran 2 50ct runs in the 217 24 RF aliminum (Magnum). With the long pins I got between 22.00 and 22.40 with 10% cull. The 10% cull was probably my fault for poor bottom pour. I missed the hole or poured to fast and splashed out.
The 2nd batch of 50 is in the tumbler. I tumble for 20 minutes give or take and they come out looking like little shiny diamonds.
I’m sure you have mentioned it before somewhere but what tumbler and media you using?
Thanks,
Dave
Walmart cheapy... I don't use any media.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Maxx-Explore-Rock-Tumbler-Kit-Durable-Gem-Polisher-Children-Teens-Adults-Seniors-8/460026892?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227460026892_14069003552_202077872&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=42423897272&wl4=pla-295289030566&wl5=9012797&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=460026892&veh=sem&gad_source=1
Many thanks! my tumbler went in my exchange out of handloading and into casting, I added the Walmart tumbler to my cart. I also have a bag of steel pin media, Do you think it would mar the 99,9 pure? If your getting success without media I could always go that route.
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So the PID parts are assembled into one shipment by A;iEx and have left China.....I had like a dozen NOE cast 30 cal left so I cast a tin of slugs after cleaning the Pot again and opening the down pour hole. I got a surprising number of 63.2 and 63.3. The cull is the right pile mostly incomplete do to failure in my technique. To the left are over-weights, all with the telltale vertical seam, meaning the halves weren't snug...
Like a dummy I got a rhythm with the right glove off...at the very end I emptied the pot into my yard sale muffin tin aka round ingot mold. Of course I had to slide it a little to the right...two fingertips now have 80% fingerprints...good thing I don't lock my andriod with that feature...lol
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I just ran 2 50ct runs in the 217 24 RF aliminum (Magnum). With the long pins I got between 22.00 and 22.40 with 10% cull. The 10% cull was probably my fault for poor bottom pour. I missed the hole or poured to fast and splashed out.
The 2nd batch of 50 is in the tumbler. I tumble for 20 minutes give or take and they come out looking like little shiny diamonds.
I’m sure you have mentioned it before somewhere but what tumbler and media you using?
Thanks,
Dave
Walmart cheapy... I don't use any media.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Maxx-Explore-Rock-Tumbler-Kit-Durable-Gem-Polisher-Children-Teens-Adults-Seniors-8/460026892?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227460026892_14069003552_202077872&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=42423897272&wl4=pla-295289030566&wl5=9012797&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=460026892&veh=sem&gad_source=1
Many thanks! my tumbler went in my exchange out of handloading and into casting, I added the Walmart tumbler to my cart. I also have a bag of steel pin media, Do you think it would mar the 99,9 pure? If your getting success without media I could always go that route.
I haven't used media for quite some time now. Yes, the 99.9 is quite soft. I tumble them until they are real shiny.. about 20 minutes or so. I let them cool before I tumble them. They are too soft when they are hot.
I pour 50 to 100 then add the sprues back to the pot. By this time the previous batch has tumbled and I sort and weigh them while the pot heats back up. I repeat the cycle until I'm tired of standing.. usually 500 or so.
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WHOA! :o
I got a bar stool and can't do 500 in a sitting!
That's a lot of pours!
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I have airgun and outdoors streaming on the flat screen, a gun at the shooting window bench and a fridge full of various hydrating products ;) so I do it in a more relaxed way.
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Thanks for the info!
Dave
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Welcome...
Casting is just another level of the airgun experience. And the good part is that you get to save a whole bunch of money. Trapping and recasting your pellets takes the savings to another level.
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Welcome...
Casting is just another level of the airgun experience. And the good part is that you get to save a whole bunch of money. Trapping and recasting your pellets takes the savings to another level.
That's what I do 👍👍👍
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It's a great feeling to reclaim lead from the traps.
(https://i.ibb.co/x8G7j6G/Reclaimed-lead.jpg)
It's an even better feeling to recast them to go again.
(https://i.ibb.co/qnf7yVj/249-39-RF.jpg)
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Nice couple of piles ya got there.
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I have airgun and outdoors streaming on the flat screen, a gun at the shooting window bench and a fridge full of various hydrating products ;) so I do it in a more relaxed way.
Now THAT is a mancave...cheers!
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Nice couple of piles ya got there.
Thanks! The trap got too heavy to move around, so it was time to clean it out. My .357 test slugs are in the basket. They were cast with 1 to 40 lead. The rest are a mixed bag.
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I've worked myself into a situation resulting from Squirrel moments.
Instead of staying on track with pouring and testing the new 99.9% pure lead I started this yardwork project.
I have the samples poured and sorted into bins on the shooting bench but I m compelled to see the yard project through.
I'll see if I can squeeze a few minutes in to test some in the NoDoze today at the least.
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No "hot plate" to preheat the molds but I found this indoor electric grill in the closet.
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Scott, that last photo seems to indicate a weight variance. Do you have a p.i.d. controller?
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Nope... Just a thermal couple on a meter.
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The 99.9% pure pellets in 2 different weights of Hunter and Magnum only shot slightly better in the NoDoze at 40yds than wheel weight lead.
I wonder why 217 was the chosen size for the .22 molds? I sent a messge to Bob Sterne asking if he had any insight.
I'm also questioning tumbling this soft lead... am I beating the skirts in? I'm going to need to do some comparing in the coming days. I already have samples of tumbled pellets... I'll make of run of both molds without tumbling and measure them against each other.
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Scott, that last photo seems to indicate a weight variance. Do you have a p.i.d. controller?
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LOL, funny. They do look good though. The grill Scott used is thinking outside the box. I threw one of those away and later had to go buy a hotplate.
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I know I'm supposed to wait for the PID but my ADHD inner child decided to cast some NOE217WC17gr in my Aluminum 4 cavity. I opened up the bottom pour, but she went back to a dribble by the end of this short run. I can only guess the spout is cooler than the pot? She was flowing nice shinny lead out the bottom. I used the alternate fill direction to equalize mold temperature. Apparently I had the same clamping issue as 75% of the culls have flashing beyond the skirt so lead is making it past the pin...the rest are under-formed due to the dribble spout issue. The keepers dropped at 18-18.5gr. Should be enough to see how they group in the jumper...
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If you empty the pot and clean it, use some lapping compound and a drill to lap the spout and the valve rod together..
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Got the go ahead from the finance department and ordered the NOE 217 20 RF aluminum 2 cav mold this morning. The brass one I have is just too finicky for me. I would have order the 4 cav but they were out of stock. Also the 4 cav doubles the chances for varying weights due to pin settings. .22 pellets are already hard enough to consistently pour without that added headache.
This has been with my limited experience... YMMV
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I know I'm supposed to wait for the PID but my ADHD inner child decided to cast some NOE217WC17gr in my Aluminum 4 cavity. I opened up the bottom pour, but she went back to a dribble by the end of this short run. I can only guess the spout is cooler than the pot? She was flowing nice shinny lead out the bottom. I used the alternate fill direction to equalize mold temperature. Apparently, I had the same clamping issue as 75% of the culls have flashing beyond the skirt so lead is making it past the pin...the rest are under-formed due to the dribble spout issue. The keepers dropped at 18-18.5gr. Should be enough to see how they group in the jumper...
That's a good sign that the lead is not hot enough. The spout is cooler, and in my experience, you have to have the lead hotter to compensate for the temp difference. What I do sometimes is use pliers and a large sewing needle to poke up through the spout to clear it when I set my lead too cool. I also put some scrap wood around the pot to help hold heat while leaving an opening for casting. I am fortunate that the Lee 20lb spot has an adjustable spout flow. This is one really handy feature.
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Once my 10# pot gets to 700f I have no more issues with the pour spout plugging. The PID has no problem maintaining the temps. I add sprues back to the pot all at once during my pour, sort and cull cycle. The pot coming back up to temp gives me time and a break. Like Keith, I have a small Allen wrench and small vise grips in case it should plug.
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Thank you gentlemen. Today's 217WC17 attempts looked worse than the last girl on the wall at a middle school sock hop. I will get my pliers and the appropriate sized gouging needle and wait patiently for the PID parts which AliEx says 70% of them have left China and reached local delivery service (USPS/UPS I hope). I will start at 700 degrees as my "target" temperature. My pot is 10# as well. Tracking and learning.
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Got the go ahead from the finance department and ordered the NOE 217 20 RF aluminum 2 cav mold this morning. The brass one I have is just too finicky for me. I would have order the 4 cav but they were out of stock. Also the 4 cav doubles the chances for varying weights due to pin settings. .22 pellets are already hard enough to consistently pour without that added headache.
This has been with my limited experience... YMMV
Yessir yesterday's 4 cavity 217WC17's had many 20gr flashing skirts. I tightened up all the pins but had the fouled spout today so 100% incomplete formed. The 30cal was much easier. I have a 217Hunter20 2 cavity aluminum to try once the PID is assembled. Nothing like having ADHD and being forced to wait by the mailbox.....maybe something will come along and distract me.
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Got the go ahead from the finance department and ordered the NOE 217 20 RF aluminum 2 cav mold this morning. The brass one I have is just too finicky for me. I would have order the 4 cav but they were out of stock. Also the 4 cav doubles the chances for varying weights due to pin settings. .22 pellets are already hard enough to consistently pour without that added headache.
This has been with my limited experience... YMMV
Yessir yesterday's 4 cavity 217WC17's had many 20gr flashing skirts. I tightened up all the pins but had the fouled spout today so 100% incomplete formed. The 30cal was much easier. I have a 217Hunter20 2 cavity aluminum to try once the PID is assembled. Nothing like having ADHD and being forced to wait by the mailbox.....maybe something will come along and distract me.
For the flash issue I might suggest cleaning the 2 alignment pins of the mold with hot soapy water and the wire brush from a .22 cleaning kit. Then pre heat your mold before pouring. Some just use a hotplate. I went further making mold ovens. I seem to find comfort in the rabbit hole.. :-\
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Tracking this morning puts the new mold here on Friday.
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You need to clean the whole mold surface .. Not the bullet cavities...
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You need to clean the whole mold surface .. Not the bullet cavities...
Agreed
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Tracking. Thank you gentlemen. Added to the list of things to do while waiting for the rest of the PID parts from China.....
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I posted over in the Challenger Hammer Spring tuning thread but I'll ask here. Is the quarter sized group at 10M pictured below "about right" for a 1gr variation 62.7to63.7? Is 900fps too fast for this slug? Or does my Challenger just not like these slugs?
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I think its time to rename this thread to something else lol. You are no longer a newB. The Odyssey of Avatar in the Red Shed and his casting corner. That comes to mind.
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I think its time to rename this thread to something else lol. You are no longer a newB. The Odyssey of Avatar in the Red Shed and his casting corner. That comes to mind.
Thanks to you for the most part for loaning me all those molds to get me started. ;D
Meanwhile, my 4th mold is due to arrive today. I'll get the NOE 217 20 RF 2cav aluminum mold scrubbed up and the pins set while the pot is heating up and see what we get today.
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I posted over in the Challenger Hammer Spring tuning thread but I'll ask here. Is the quarter sized group at 10M pictured below "about right" for a 1gr variation 62.7to63.7? Is 900fps too fast for this slug? Or does my Challenger just not like these slugs?
At 10m I expect same hole unless I pull the shot, are the slugs sized to .303 ???
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I posted over in the Challenger Hammer Spring tuning thread but I'll ask here. Is the quarter sized group at 10M pictured below "about right" for a 1gr variation 62.7to63.7? Is 900fps too fast for this slug? Or does my Challenger just not like these slugs?
A 1gr spread would not make much of a difference at 33 feet. It's not until you stretch out beyond 50 yards would that really come into play. At that short of a distance, I would want to see them stacking or at least have a small, ragged hole to be comfortable shooting them farther. It's a great distance for tuning and testing.
This said, slugs are spin stabilized and can need some distance to stabilize. So, you might see how they do farther out. The speed is okay and slugs typically like more speed. A lot depends on their fit to the barrel and how they exit the muzzle/crown and the twist rate used. It certainly wouldn't hurt to try them at other speeds higher or lower just for giggles.
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I posted over in the Challenger Hammer Spring tuning thread but I'll ask here. Is the quarter sized group at 10M pictured below "about right" for a 1gr variation 62.7to63.7? Is 900fps too fast for this slug? Or does my Challenger just not like these slugs?
A 1gr spread would not make much of a difference at 33 feet. It's not until you stretch out beyond 50 yards would that really come into play. At that short of a distance, I would want to see them stacking or at least have a small, ragged hole to be comfortable shooting them farther. It's a great distance for tuning and testing.
This said, slugs are spin stabilized and can need some distance to stabilize. So, you might see how they do farther out. The speed is okay and slugs typically like more speed. A lot depends on their fit to the barrel and how they exit the muzzle/crown and the twist rate used. It certainly wouldn't hurt to try them at other speeds higher or lower just for giggles.
Confirms my gut feelings. With the 2x28x60mm SSS spring I got one ragged hole at 10M, but a good foot low at 24M so much slower velocity. The NSA 47.2s had .303 on the box and these are dropping at .300. I'm thinking the 2x25x63 spring at 2950 fill gave me a 5% ES around 85-90fpe so maybe the gun wants to live there...lol. Interesting theory to see if they group better at longer distances as well at these speeds...
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I was all psyched yesterday thinking the new mold was arriving. I had a pan of soapy water on the hot plate, the pot coming up to temp and the mold oven fired up. The mail lady came and went, no mold. Today the tracking says "out for delivery" but I'm not going to do anything until I have it in hand.
It's supposed to bow up and rain this afternoon and through the night so I won't have anything better to do anyways.
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I was out cutting some small trees and straggler bushes this morning while I was waiting for the mail. I must have pulled or twisted wrong because my back feels like I was kicked to the curb..... from a 5th floor window. Mold cleaning and maiden run will need to wait until tomorrow, I'll spend the rest of today on a heating pad.
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I was out cutting some small trees and straggler bushes this morning while I was waiting for the mail. I must have pulled or twisted wrong because my back feels like I was kicked to the curb..... from a 5th floor window. Mold cleaning and maiden run will need to wait until tomorrow, I'll spend the rest of today on a heating pad.
Get well soon.
I cut four big oak trees down the last couple of days, but I did it the easy way, lol.
(https://i.ibb.co/FwyJrWB/Trees-3-8-24.jpg)
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I posted over in the Challenger Hammer Spring tuning thread but I'll ask here. Is the quarter sized group at 10M pictured below "about right" for a 1gr variation 62.7to63.7? Is 900fps too fast for this slug? Or does my Challenger just not like these slugs?
A 1gr spread would not make much of a difference at 33 feet. It's not until you stretch out beyond 50 yards would that really come into play. At that short of a distance, I would want to see them stacking or at least have a small, ragged hole to be comfortable shooting them farther. It's a great distance for tuning and testing.
This said, slugs are spin stabilized and can need some distance to stabilize. So, you might see how they do farther out. The speed is okay and slugs typically like more speed. A lot depends on their fit to the barrel and how they exit the muzzle/crown and the twist rate used. It certainly wouldn't hurt to try them at other speeds higher or lower just for giggles.
Again thank you sir! I shot some 17grWC through the Jumper at 10M and the Notos (0ne ragged hole). More than acceptable for plinking and LGR practicing. I will use a production pellet for casual matches but I now will have a lifetime supply of plinking ammo as I have the trap box for 177 Co2 Pistol recycling and my Jerry rigged Amazon cardboard trap for .22 and .30. I will order 10# lots of RotoMetals to mix in as needed.
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In yet another SSS prospect moment I cast a round of NOE 22x20Hunters 2 cavity brass. Much easier to deal with and counting less rejects, probably faster than the 4 cavity WC mold. Dropped at 19.1 to 19.8 with a centroid of 19.3-19.6. All the culls were my technique as I get the hang of bottom pouring. As told and understood the PID cast Hunters should be 19.3-19.6 with few to no culls. Just waiting on a few more parts before assembly.
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I was out cutting some small trees and straggler bushes this morning while I was waiting for the mail. I must have pulled or twisted wrong because my back feels like I was kicked to the curb..... from a 5th floor window. Mold cleaning and maiden run will need to wait until tomorrow, I'll spend the rest of today on a heating pad.
Get well soon.
I cut four big oak trees down the last couple of days, but I did it the easy way, lol.
(https://i.ibb.co/FwyJrWB/Trees-3-8-24.jpg)
If I had access or the money to hire one of those I would take down every tree on this place.
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I was out cutting some small trees and straggler bushes this morning while I was waiting for the mail. I must have pulled or twisted wrong because my back feels like I was kicked to the curb..... from a 5th floor window. Mold cleaning and maiden run will need to wait until tomorrow, I'll spend the rest of today on a heating pad.
Get well soon.
I cut four big oak trees down the last couple of days, but I did it the easy way, lol.
(https://i.ibb.co/FwyJrWB/Trees-3-8-24.jpg)
If I had access or the money to hire one of those I would take down every tree on this place.
With hurricanes always a threat I figure this route is cheaper in the long run. At least I can sleep easier, and may can even grow some grass in some dead areas now. There should also be less leaves to clean up. It's like living in the forests around here with limbs always attacking my roof. I got fed-up with all of that. There was one squirrel casualty during the removal. As I understand it the baby squirrel was caught in-between a vee in the tree and succumb to a chainsaw.
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Got up feeling much better this morning. The rain has cleared out and temps are supposed to hover right around 70 today. Getting ready to get out there and get things fired up and ready to go. I'll preheat the toaster oven PID to 450 or so I can cycle the mold temp up and down a couple times after cleaning it.
I did manage to check the pin setting on the mold and they were so close that I don't think I need to adjust them.
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The mold is scrubbed and cycling up and down to 200c (392f) in the toaster oven PID. (The instruction sheet that came with this mold said 400f... close enough)
The pot PID is heating the 99.9 pure lead to 700f (That PID has the option to read C or F but my other 2 do not have the option).
The window side shooting range is wet but ready for testing pellets.
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When I get to testing I'll set my portable target stand in the red circle which is 25 meters.
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Running the 2nd cool down then I set the oven timer to 40 minutes for one more cycle, cool it down then put the handles on and bring it to preheat temp.. around 300, then git to pourin' some pellets. ;)
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Sneak peek...
I ran 30 pellets on the very first run of this mold and culled out 15.. 50%. Half of those 15 were due to me miss pouring while trying the get my rhythm with bottom pouring. The 15 good ones weighed in between 18.98 and 19.20. I did not tumble the pellets.
I loaded them in the 15 rd Maple mag for the NoDoze and put all 15 into a 1" group at the steel blank I have on a 35 meter tree.
I think after the mold settles in and I catch my rhythm pouring they will be at a better percentage rate.
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Just as I thought, this run went much better. I ran about 100 and culled about 15%. Again, mostly due to me.
We have an 8 - 10 mph gusty wind from left to right still closed a 10 round group down to 3/4" at 35m.
I tumbled this run to get a comparison and the group was tighter but there are the other factors to consider... wind, mold breaking in and me pouring a little more consistently. The point here is... tumbling didn't have an ill affect.
I'm optimistic that I have solved my .22 cast pellet woes with this aluminum mold. I'm going to clean up the brass mold and pack it away.. for now.
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I don't remember and I'm too lazy to go back through this thread, what do use as a medium when tumbling your pellets?
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Nothing... I let them tumble against each other. I worry about heavier object with sharp edges tumbling with them. I don't tumble them hot either. Especially now that I'm using the softer 99.9% pure lead.
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Thank you Bill. I'm going to get a HF tumbler and give it a try.
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Thank you Bill. I'm going to get a HF tumbler and give it a try.
Save yourself some money....
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Maxx-Explore-Rock-Tumbler-Kit-Durable-Gem-Polisher-Children-Teens-Adults-Seniors-8/460026892?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227460026892_154865745800_18530643039&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=669769482659&wl4=pla-1882113904760&wl5=9012797&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=460026892&veh=sem&gad_source=1
That's what I use and it works just fine. I stuck a toothpick in the safety latch for the clear cover and put one wrap of black tape under the rubber belt.
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Is that what you are using?
Ordered!
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The wind died down and I shot 2 mags, 1 full 3600psi fill, at 35m and they all stayed within a dime.
Next I'll pour a large batch over the next couple days and test them in the rest of my .22 guns.
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Is that what you are using?
Yep.
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The end cap screws on tight with a rubber seal and you can tumble with water or even oil it you want. I tumble dry.
I did try oil once but I don't like lubed pellets and cleaned it out with warm water and Dawn.
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Sneak peek...
I ran 30 pellets on the very first run of this mold and culled out 15.. 50%. Half of those 15 were due to me miss pouring while trying the get my rhythm with bottom pouring. The 15 good ones weighed in between 18.98 and 19.20. I did not tumble the pellets.
I loaded them in the 15 rd Maple mag for the NoDoze and put all 15 into a 1" group at the steel blank I have on a 35 meter tree.
I think after the mold settles in and I catch my rhythm pouring they will be at a better percentage rate.
Impressive! Once I get all my mad scientist toys together I'm hopeful for a .3-.4gr spread. IIDMP maybe 1" at 25yards for me, which would be acceptable for how I scout/hunt with the Notos. My longest harvest this year was 33yards, 40' up a tree (two from the same tree).
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Bill,
You were right. I still don't have the 110 outlet shown and haven't received the two push button circuit breakers (still in China) and even without any wires it looks tight in that box. I'll search around for a 150x250x100 box. This one is 170x140x100
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I didn't use fuses. I plug the units into surge protected power strips. I didn't use power lights. The LED PID indicate that the unit is on. I used a standard house on and off switch for the hot plate mold oven. The toaster oven uses the timer/always on rheostat factory knob and the pot PID used a toggle on/off switch. The only unit with a fan is the one for the hot plate unit (the one in thee plastic ammo box. None of them get hot enough to even need a fan. I did vent the case just in case.
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First batch of around 100 drops is in the tumbler. Sprues are back in the pot and the mold is in the oven stay hot. Once the pot is up to temp I'll pour another batch shutting off the tumbler at some point during that pour.
After that pour, those go in the tumbler, the sprues go in the pot. While that pot is coming back to temp I'll cull and weigh the first batch. Then the cycle will continue until I feel like I have done enough or the Secret Squirrel shows up. :o
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Wow...
Round 1 was impressive.. maybe a 10% cull. Everything else dropped between 19 and 19.4. I shot 5 shot samples of the .0 and the .4 and and all held and easy dime at 25m. I moved in from the 35m target because we still have a swirling wind of about 10mph and gusty.
I am still using the NoDoze and have yet to try them in other guns. The NoDoze runs at around 700 fps and has that short barrel. I could get better or worse results from longer barrels on unregulated guns.
Round 2 is in the tumbler.
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A bit jealous of your casting season, it's a lot harder to find a decent slice of good weather up here. I found the NOE 17gr 0.22 wad cutters are hard to cast well. They are so small that the block tends to chill the lead fast, even on a hot plate. Eventually I'll figure it out.
Bought the 2 cavity slug mold, 27gr HP, Bob's BT, and will see if I can cast them a bit better. Don't really have anything to shoot them with, but figure that's a fixable problem. I'll initially try them out in my PP700 or P-Rod. Pretty sure folks here can help me spend my money on something more suitable. Forums are good for that!
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A bit jealous of your casting season, it's a lot harder to find a decent slice of good weather up here. I found the NOE 17gr 0.22 wad cutters are hard to cast well. They are so small that the block tends to chill the lead fast, even on a hot plate. Eventually I'll figure it out.
Bought the 2 cavity slug mold, 27gr HP, Bob's BT, and will see if I can cast them a bit better. Don't really have anything to shoot them with, but figure that's a fixable problem. I'll initially try them out in my PP700 or P-Rod. Pretty sure folks here can help me spend my money on something more suitable. Forums are good for that!
That's the ones I shoot out of my impact except they're flat nose not hollow points at around 30 grains.
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Hey Bruce... good to see you chiming in. I've tried the wadcutters and they don't like any gun I have. I'm just glad the mold was a loaner and I didn't buy it. I do remember Wayne had very good luck with them with his C02 pistols. But, the ones I ran was with the wheel weight lead. I might get better results with the 99.9 pure lead.
My first 2 runs are in the tin and my 3rd run is in the tumbler.
I am now confident enough in the 99.9 pure lead to make a 20# purchase from Rotometals next week.
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FYI Bill, it's quite a bit cheaper (per lb) to buy a half pig from Rotometals, at least it was the last time I checked. My next buy will be a half pig of pure lead.
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A bit jealous of your casting season, it's a lot harder to find a decent slice of good weather up here. I found the NOE 17gr 0.22 wad cutters are hard to cast well. They are so small that the block tends to chill the lead fast, even on a hot plate. Eventually I'll figure it out.
Bought the 2 cavity slug mold, 27gr HP, Bob's BT, and will see if I can cast them a bit better. Don't really have anything to shoot them with, but figure that's a fixable problem. I'll initially try them out in my PP700 or P-Rod. Pretty sure folks here can help me spend my money on something more suitable. Forums are good for that!
That's the ones I shoot out of my impact except they're flat nose not hollow points at around 30 grains.
My mold came with pins so it can be HP or flat nose. Splurged on that. Only could get 2 cavity though, as all the other options were sold out.
Hoping I don't have to buy an Impact to enjoy them though. Awesome that you have one. Currently, don't have the funds to entertain the notion. Maybe some day. In the interim, I hope to find something else a bit less expensive to exercise these slugs.
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The Bob's BT is a short range hammer in my Prod, they may need swaging in the Artemis guns, I find the 218-25-RF-D6 work best in the SPA guns and many others, way easer to cast than pellets.
https://noebulletmolds.com/site/product-category/bullet-moulds/224/218-25-rf-d6/
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FYI Bill, it's quite a bit cheaper (per lb) to buy a half pig from Rotometals, at least it was the last time I checked. My next buy will be a half pig of pure lead.
Yep, you're right... just checked. It's $119 for 42 - 47 # and free shipping. I'll decide next week when I place the order. I have to see where it fits in the budget. I'm still getting over the fear/shock of fixed income. ;D
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A bit jealous of your casting season, it's a lot harder to find a decent slice of good weather up here. I found the NOE 17gr 0.22 wad cutters are hard to cast well. They are so small that the block tends to chill the lead fast, even on a hot plate. Eventually I'll figure it out.
Bought the 2 cavity slug mold, 27gr HP, Bob's BT, and will see if I can cast them a bit better. Don't really have anything to shoot them with, but figure that's a fixable problem. I'll initially try them out in my PP700 or P-Rod. Pretty sure folks here can help me spend my money on something more suitable. Forums are good for that!
That's the ones I shoot out of my impact except they're flat nose not hollow points at around 30 grains.
My mold came with pins so it can be HP or flat nose. Splurged on that. Only could get 2 cavity though, as all the other options were sold out.
Hoping I don't have to buy an Impact to enjoy them though. Awesome that you have one. Currently, don't have the funds to entertain the notion. Maybe some day. In the interim, I hope to find something else a bit less expensive to exercise these slugs.
I originally bought that mold to shoot out of my liberty but the bore is way too tight and sizing them down to.215 basically removed the sealing bands and made the friction way to high to be effective.
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Topped that tin off with the last run. I guesstimate there are 300. Not my best day of casting but with the good to bad ratio I'd say it was pretty productive. I did send 50-60 or so downrange.
"We are closed now"
Time for some good old Betty Lou cooking and some NASCAR. ;)
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Still tracking some good information. Sunny today so I had to empty the pp800r for it's next tear-down. Put 21 NOE20gr hunters through it and dry fired to empty. I was able to hit cans at 10M one handed with open sights (not every time). I hit the 1.5" reactive and cans once I guesstimated the drop. They required an authoritative closure of the bolt compared to all the 16grs I've tried. I didn't try shot tray as my goal was to empty the air tube and just plink. I then put one magazine through the Notos at 10M. Upper left is 5 shot group, upper middle is 3 shot group (not touching but MOS), lower middle is another 3 shot group and lower right is the last pellet. Best group .3" C-to-C. I warm soapy water brushed the 30cal and 217WC17 4 cavity molds and put them in the toaster oven at 250 degrees for 30 minutes to dry. Might run some 30cal as I'm out and need to see if Thik Girl will make her first Casual Match on LGR Thursday.
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Been testing the 217 20 RF in some of my guns this morning..
I already knew the NoDoze shoots them well.
The Beeman 1358 likes them as much or better.
The Fortitude gives me 1"+ at 30 with an occasional flyer.
But the Xisico Sentry shotguns them as does the FD-PCP.
All of these guns shoot CPUM, CPHP and the JTS 18.1 lights out.
The common ground seems to be the shorter barrel but that may just be coincidence.
I still have several to test them in but that dang Secret Squirrel showed up again when I had the 1358 out.
I hate the way that gun hits me right in the face with a blast of air when I shoot it but that's a story for a different thread.
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What is the groove and land diameter?
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What is the groove and land diameter?
No clue.. never measured lands and grooves on any gun.. above my skill level. :-\
I'll shoot my cast pellets with the guns that shoot them and shoot whatever the other guns shoot best with them. When the World prices me out of buying retail pellets those guns will be sold or become wall hangers. ;)
I don't plan on owning 100 different guns that require 50 different pellets.
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The Bob's BT is a short range hammer in my Prod, they may need swaging in the Artemis guns, I find the 218-25-RF-D6 work best in the SPA guns and many others, way easer to cast than pellets.
https://noebulletmolds.com/site/product-category/bullet-moulds/224/218-25-rf-d6/
Did these group for you with the Notos? They probably have a rainbow shaped trajectory in my Gamo jumper. If they group well I could see uping the regulator and hammer spring in the Notos to push these or the 20gr. Hunters (yet to test).
I'm thinking the NOE17WC4cavity will get traded. I shot a sub 160 casual target with some good looking WCs. They also turned to thin slivers in the Gamo reactive spoon trap box. Pretty much plinking ammo. I'd rather buy CPHPs and recast than run batches of these...
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FYI Bill, it's quite a bit cheaper (per lb) to buy a half pig from Rotometals, at least it was the last time I checked. My next buy will be a half pig of pure lead.
Yep, you're right... just checked. It's $119 for 42 - 47 # and free shipping. I'll decide next week when I place the order. I have to see where it fits in the budget. I'm still getting over the fear/shock of fixed income. ;D
I see a half pig in my future after I complete the PID. Probably one more 10# order to satisfy my tinker urge until then.
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I ordered 35lbs (x7 5lb bricks for free shipping) from Rotometals. USPS barely got the package into my slightly over regulation sized mailbox. I am just glad the old mailbox hung tough. I can't believe it actually did. I would have loved to see that delivery happen. Not sure how much a half pig weighs.
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The Bob's BT is a short range hammer in my Prod, they may need swaging in the Artemis guns, I find the 218-25-RF-D6 work best in the SPA guns and many others, way easer to cast than pellets.
https://noebulletmolds.com/site/product-category/bullet-moulds/224/218-25-rf-d6/
Did these group for you with the Notos? They probably have a rainbow shaped trajectory in my Gamo jumper. If they group well I could see uping the regulator and hammer spring in the Notos to push these or the 20gr. Hunters (yet to test).
I'm thinking the NOE17WC4cavity will get traded. I shot a sub 160 casual target with some good looking WCs. They also turned to thin slivers in the Gamo reactive spoon trap box. Pretty much plinking ammo. I'd rather buy CPHPs and recast than run batches of these...
Yes they do great out of the Notos, Head to head with H&N 21 gr slugs.
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Those of you with weak stomachs may want to turn your heads because Imma bout to do the happy dance and that's probably not something y'all want to see.... ;D
The GAMO Urban LOVES these pellets. I had to shoot off POA on the 3rd shot because they were going in the exact same hole at 25m. I heard the lead hit the metal but I couldn't tell where.
That is most likely my favorite .22 gun shooting my cast pellets great. So now my favorite .25 (Avenger) and my favorite .22 both shooting my cast pellets.
The Beeman 1358 and the NoDoze also love them. The Fortitude tolerates them but shoots the JTS, CPUM and CPHP better.
The Sentry shotguns them but I may be able to power that down a bit and make it better. It loves the 3 retail pellets also.
I still have Betty Lou's modded Maximus and the Yukon ReAxis to sample.
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Awesome! That's the ultimate goal to have your cast drilling holes like the commercial ones do. I'm not really sure how far your targets are set out being I am an American country boy sticking with the American imperial system. I know 25 yards is not much of a distance for the full story but is good for quick testing to see how they may do farther out.
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The Bob's BT is a short range hammer in my Prod, they may need swaging in the Artemis guns, I find the 218-25-RF-D6 work best in the SPA guns and many others, way easer to cast than pellets.
https://noebulletmolds.com/site/product-category/bullet-moulds/224/218-25-rf-d6/
Did these group for you with the Notos? They probably have a rainbow shaped trajectory in my Gamo jumper. If they group well I could see uping the regulator and hammer spring in the Notos to push these or the 20gr. Hunters (yet to test).
I'm thinking the NOE17WC4cavity will get traded. I shot a sub 160 casual target with some good looking WCs. They also turned to thin slivers in the Gamo reactive spoon trap box. Pretty much plinking ammo. I'd rather buy CPHPs and recast than run batches of these...
Yes they do great out of the Notos, Head to head with H&N 21 gr slugs.
I have some H&N sample pack slugs left so I'll see how they group IIDMP and look into the 218 slug mold. Sounds easier than 217 pellets :-)
My other 22 (scope busting jumper) stacked 18gr pellets but with a 3" or so scope adjustment from CPHPs. I'm shooting some 16s with my Notos now and telling myself I have a flatter trajectory than the 18s....IIRC Harley (modded 2240 stubby) liked heavy slugs as well...hmm
Still have to tear down the SPA800r to get the fpe in hunting range as well and hope it will like the Hunter Pellets or aforementioned slugs. I think I'm moving towards bespoke slugs...another carry over from past (PB) life....
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Watched Barley and Hops Brewing 5 part video on PID construction, wiring and programing starts here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQ8tj6hXgYA
His version has the fan but no fuse/circuit breakers. His plastic box looks just like mine so I test fit everything and believe it will be tight but should just fit including the fan. I drew the mock up on a scrap piece of cardboard.
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Awesome! That's the ultimate goal to have your cast drilling holes like the commercial ones do. I'm not really sure how far your targets are set out being I am an American country boy sticking with the American imperial system. I know 25 yards is not much of a distance for the full story but is good for quick testing to see how they may do farther out.
1 yard = 0.9144 meters. 1 meter ≈ 1.0936 yards.
I normally post in yards but they are close enough to equal that I just switch how I call them sometimes. It's closer to accurate than my old method... paces. ;)
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I bounced out to the Red Shed shootin' window this morning with the Yukon ReAxis.
Results with my 217 20 RF pellets: nope, nope, nope. Close but no cigar.
I'm just not happy with 1 1/2"+ groups at 25 yds. when I can get 1/2" groups with Crosman Hollow Points.
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I made a bulk buy of the Crosman Hollow Points a while back. I got them cheap and took advantage. I still have 10 unopened tins of them so these guns that prefer them have a home here for a while yet.. ;)
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Here is a good video for preparing your new NOE mold for casting. This is how I do mine.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4el8fq_YxuU
I don't hear of many folks smoking the mold.
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That's how I clean mine as well. I find smoking a new/old mold helps with dropping them off the pins better. There are other methods, but smoking the mold is certainly one of them.
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That's how I clean mine as well. I find smoking a new/old mold helps with dropping them off the pins better. There are other methods, but smoking the mold is certainly one of them.
I smoke the mold before each pouring session.
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The backside of the instructions show some NOE casting hints from Swede Nelson. Probably put this in the box for a reason ;) Anyways, for those that never bothered to read them, here's a picture. What? Read the instructions? Who does that ;D
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I actually got that video from the NOE website.
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The backside of the instructions show some NOE casting hints from Swede Nelson. Probably put this in the box for a reason ;) Anyways, for those that never bothered to read them, here's a picture. What? Read the instructions? Who does that ;D
I read the instructions, but I'm a weird cat.
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Thanks to a lot of folks on this forum I did the Mock up for the PID. The Utuber I posted above did a four part video. The mock up case construction was one video so I did that after work before Memsahib was ready for Roku time together. Tomorrow after chores I will probably wire it up.
Bill you'll laugh, I'm cheap and an efficiency nut with OCD so I optimized the positioning on the box we thought might too small and got everything in there including the fan. Even used the area of a circle formula to calculate I needed 16 1/2" diameter holes to balance the 2" diameter intake at the fan. I drilled 18 kinda under the relay and PID so everything should stay nice and cool. My Lee pot is only 500 Watts so at under 6amps draw I went with the 15amp outlet. I deleted the push to reset breakers as they are still in China and I will plug into a PC surge protector.
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Looks good, nice job.
Only thing I might suggest at this point, if you haven't already, is to find something to use as feet to stand it up off the floor enough to get some air flow under it.
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It looks really good. I like the 40 amp SSR and is what I use. I don't find the fan necessary and don't use one but it can't hurt. I just use a heatsink with thermo paste. I haven't had any issues with mine. You'll really appreciate the PID going forward.
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Agreed..
If things begin to go wrong it's good to know it's not pot or mold temps.
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Looks good, nice job.
Only thing I might suggest at this point, if you haven't already, is to find something to use as feet to stand it up off the floor enough to get some air flow under it.
The feet from China are in the parts box. Almost had a SSS moment and forgot them.....
tomorrow after chores I will probably wire it up.
Bill you'll laugh, I'm cheap and an efficiency nut with OCD so I optimized the positioning on the box we thought might too small and got everything in there including the fan.
In hind sight more room would have been better as things got tight as the last wires got connected. Everything is in there and no wasted space...lol
Test powered up, fan runs and getting 120V in the accessory switched outlet. Last thing (besides the feet) is the TC plug. What a PIT@ stripping the cloth insulation and getting everything stuffed in the plug. Memsahib announced bedtime just as I was getting frustrated so I called it a nite. I also need to get the heat sink paste and didn't want to go to Micro Center so I'll work that in during the week, it's 5 minutes from my office. Didn't want to "drive to work" on the weekend....
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Looks good, nice job.
Only thing I might suggest at this point, if you haven't already, is to find something to use as feet to stand it up off the floor enough to get some air flow under it.
The feet from China are in the parts box. Almost had a SSS moment and forgot them.....
tomorrow after chores I will probably wire it up.
Bill you'll laugh, I'm cheap and an efficiency nut with OCD so I optimized the positioning on the box we thought might too small and got everything in there including the fan.
In hind sight more room would have been better as things got tight as the last wires got connected. Everything is in there and no wasted space...lol
Test powered up, fan runs and getting 120V in the accessory switched outlet. Last thing (besides the feet) is the TC plug. What a PIT@ stripping the cloth insulation and getting everything stuffed in the plug. Memsahib announced bedtime just as I was getting frustrated so I called it a nite. I also need to get the heat sink paste and didn't want to go to Micro Center so I'll work that in during the week, it's 5 minutes from my office. Didn't want to "drive to work" on the weekend....
Trust me, after building 3 of these and rebuilding at least 2 times, I know your frustrations with the wiring.... especially with sledge hammer hands and sausage fingers. But on the bright side, I got pretty good at it and can wire one in my sleep.
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Hey Bill, when you tumble your slugs and pellets you don't put anything in with them just the slugs and pellets? I'm probably going to run a batch today.
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Hey Bill, when you tumble your slugs and pellets you don't put anything in with them just the slugs and pellets? I'm probably going to run a batch today.
Correct... I let them cool then tumble them for about 20 minutes, or until they are nice and shiny, with no media. Some folks use SS pins as media but I don't. I've tried BBs, SS washers and SS nuts. I couldn't see any advantage. I've also tried water and I even lubed them in the tumble before. After all that I prefer just letting them cool and tumbling alone. Other's methods may work well for them but this is how I do it.
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If you do choose to use SS media, a magnet in a sock is a great way to separate them. Just glide the socked magnet around in them then turn the sock inside out and all your media is in the sock.
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Hey Bill, when you tumble your slugs and pellets you don't put anything in with them just the slugs and pellets? I'm probably going to run a batch today.
Correct... I let them cool then tumble them for about 20 minutes, or until they are nice and shiny, with no media. Some folks use SS pins as media but I don't. I've tried BBs, SS washers and SS nuts. I couldn't see any advantage. I've also tried water and I even lubed them in the tumble before. After all that I prefer just letting them cool and tumbling alone. Other's methods may work well for them but this is how I do it.
Thank you, I'll give that a try.
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I have to get me one of those tumblers Bill uses. I use a T-shirt and tumble my cast around in all kinds of directions. I've gotten fairly good at doing this and rarely lose one, but still a tumbler would be more controlled. I believe they were out of stock when I last looked up the link.
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I looked at options costing much more but I thought I'd give this el cheapo a shot. I'm glad I did and have since tumble a few 1000 pellets in it. I did have an issue with the gear skipping teeth on the rubber belt but, like I said before, I jusst put one wrap of electric tape around the drum under the belt and it hasn't skipped a tooth since. It also comes with a spare belt.
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I have tumbled a few hundred or so at a time but now I only run 100 or so at a time.. it's just more manageable to cull and sort that number. It breaks up the casting session.
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I looked at options costing much more but I thought I'd give this el cheapo a shot. I'm glad I did and have since tumble a few 1000 pellets in it. I did have an issue with the gear skipping teeth on the rubber belt but, like I said before, I jusst put one wrap of electric tape around the drum under the belt and it hasn't skipped a tooth since. It also comes with a spare belt.
I have looked at other rock tumblers and found them to be too pricey. With the T-shirt trick working so well, I can't justify buying one of those expensive ones. The tumbler you linked I can splurge more comfortably on. Thanks for the link.
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Welcome. IIRC another member pointed it out to me but I'm not sure who.
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I have tumbled a few hundred or so at a time but now I only run 100 or so at a time.. it's just more manageable to cull and sort that number. It breaks up the casting session.
The thing with using a T-shirt is that you have to have a good quantity of them for it to work well. Otherwise, there's not enough to do any good at smoothing them all out.
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This tumble has round edge ribs kinda like the household dryer that mixes them well.
It is quite noisy though. You wouldn't want to run it in your family room. ;)
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You're not kidding about needing to wrap some tape around it. 😡 I guess for $16 I can't complain.😂
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Works great though. I'm not sure how it's supposed to tumble that stuff that comes with it. I tossed it all.
BTW... that drum only fits in one way.
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Yep, I seen that. I did a batch of noe .25 hunters. They turned out real nice. I then did some.25 47 grain slugs but had to cut it short as something caused a breaker to trip in my solar system. Reset it but still not sure what happened. May have had to much running at the same time between the washer, dryer, vacuum cleaner, fridge, water pump and the rock tumbler. Going to keep an eye on how the system performs over the next few days.
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I fired up Casting Corner and donned my director's cap and made a couple videos of my way of casting. Then I transferred the files to the main PC and did a bit of editing with Open Shot video editor. Now I'm just waiting for it to convert the project into MP4 format so I can upload it to YouTube and maybe throw a link up here.
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.... meanwhile the WC mold shows out for delivery.
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Lets if we can post this vid...
https://youtu.be/DPX-bKgCag8
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It's a bit too soon... The video is set to private until it's completely accepted by YouHoo. :-\
It's scheduled to be made public at noon today... sorry for the delay.
Meantime... the WC mold arrived so I'll be running a test pour of those today.
And... the total pour from the video was 40 pellets. Those were culled down to 32 pellets due to bad pour and not meeting my weight expectations (between 19.20 and 19.50).
I took those 32 and dumped them into a tin of around 25 that I had previously cast and mixed them up. Then I randomly loaded the 12 rnd. Flash QE mag and shot at my 25yd target..... AWESOME !! Every shot went into a dime size group.
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Lets if we can post this vid...
https://youtu.be/DPX-bKgCag8
Thank you for posting. I'm pretty close to what you show. Haven't fired up my tumbler yet...
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Welcome. IIRC another member pointed it out to me but I'm not sure who.
I'm not sure, but I think that would have been me... a bit better than a year ago!
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Welcome. IIRC another member pointed it out to me but I'm not sure who.
I'm not sure, but I think that would have been me... a bit better than a year ago!
Cold have been.. I just remember reading or hearing of it and always intended to do it but never got around to it. I may be time now.
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Lets if we can post this vid...
https://youtu.be/DPX-bKgCag8
Yep, you can throw those lead drippens right back in there but no corn Squeezeins.😜
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Pretty sure I'd need alot better safety gear for that. :o
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Corn bread mold...
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@avator, Bill, nice video. Shows the basics.
I plugged my bottom feed, it wasn't reliable outdoors. Actually it would chill the lead, relative to the pot, at least on the 20 lb pot. It would either drip, which as you show, you can sort of time, or it would get plugged with debris. It plugged once too often for me, so I inserted an aluminum plug into the down spout. Now I ladle cast. I really need an indoor or at least sheltered place to cast. Being out in the open with a breeze is not good for casting consistency.
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@avator, Bill, nice video. Shows the basics.
I plugged my bottom feed, it wasn't reliable outdoors. Actually it would chill the lead, relative to the pot, at least on the 20 lb pot. It would either drip, which as you show, you can sort of time, or it would get plugged with debris. It plugged once too often for me, so I inserted an aluminum plug into the down spout. Now I ladle cast. I really need an indoor or at least sheltered place to cast. Being out in the open with a breeze is not good for casting consistency.
All true. I'm luck to have the Red Shed. I don't worry to much about casting in the closed environment but I open the doors or move out to the lean to when melting down wheel weights or re ingot the recovered pellets.
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Made a trade with another member for a mold.. I received the NOE 217 17 WC 4 cav mold. I set all the pins to equal depths and made a pour. Then I decided I wanted a little heavier pellet. I let the mold cool and pulled the pin brackets... one of them was tight tight tight and I stripped the Allen head on it.
I know I have a set of EZ Outs around here but I couldn't find them anywhere. So while in town this morning I picked a couple up. I set up the vise on the drill press and drilled the head off the screw. It came off flush with the top of the mold and left nothing to get ahold of to twist it out. Changed to the smaller bit and drill center down through the remaining screw shank. I tapped in the EZ Out and the screw shank backed right out with my fingers.
While at Lowes a picked up a couple 10 - 24 button head CS 1/2" screws. Perfect replacement.
I remember my tool and die days... an EZ Out is not something you want to snap off in a screw. That made for a really bad day at work.
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Bill, nice casting setup. Hopefully I can get back to casting eventually. In the meantime, it is good to watch some casting videos.
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Thanks Keith..
I made another one a few months ago but I didn't think it was good enough to post. I have enough experience now that I figured someone new to casting may benefit from it.
Small .22 pellets are tough to pour well. I have got as little as 50/50 cull rate.. I'm getting the hang of it. ;)
Unless you have years of experience, controlling those temps is very helpful. Not getting in too big of a hurry helps too.
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Thanks Keith..
I made another one a few months ago but I didn't think it was good enough to post. I have enough experience now that I figured someone new to casting may benefit from it.
Small .22 pellets are tough to pour well. I have got as little as 50/50 cull rate.. I'm getting the hang of it. ;)
Unless you have years of experience, controlling those temps is very helpful. Not getting in too big of a hurry helps too.
I have never had any desire to cast smaller than .25 cal. I saw the writing on the wall when casting .25 cal and up. But if that's what I wind up shooting the most, then I will have to give .22 cal a try.
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Yeah, you can see from the video how fast they fill. It so easy to overfill and have a mess. One trick is to only keep the pot half full. The force of the heavy lead runs it out really fast. A half pot also melts and comes up to temp faster.
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Thanks Keith..
I made another one a few months ago but I didn't think it was good enough to post. I have enough experience now that I figured someone new to casting may benefit from it.
Small .22 pellets are tough to pour well. I have got as little as 50/50 cull rate.. I'm getting the hang of it. ;)
Unless you have years of experience, controlling those temps is very helpful. Not getting in too big of a hurry helps too.
I have never had any desire to cast smaller than .25 cal. I saw the writing on the wall when casting .25 cal and up. But if that's what I wind up shooting the most, then I will have to give .22 cal a try.
I've never had problems casting.22 using Wayne's pressure pour system. As long as I do it the way he outlined in his video my pellets and slugs turn out great. Sometimes I goof up and don't get to pour lined up right but then I know to just put them back into the pot.
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Yeah, you can see from the video how fast they fill. It so easy to overfill and have a mess. One trick is to only keep the pot half full. The force of the heavy lead runs it out really fast. A half pot also melts and comes up to temp faster.
The Lee 20lb pot has a flow adjustment, so I'll be good there at flow control and I usually adjust the flow as the level drops, in order to keep the flow consistent. I usually overflow a little anyway, some to heat the sprue plate up more.
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Made a trade with another member for a mold.. I received the NOE 217 17 WC 4 cav mold. I set all the pins to equal depths and made a pour. Then I decided I wanted a little heavier pellet. I let the mold cool and pulled the pin brackets... one of them was tight tight tight and I stripped the Allen head on it.
I know I have a set of EZ Outs around here but I couldn't find them anywhere. So while in town this morning I picked a couple up. I set up the vise on the drill press and drilled the head off the screw. It came off flush with the top of the mold and left nothing to get ahold of to twist it out. Changed to the smaller bit and drill center down through the remaining screw shank. I tapped in the EZ Out and the screw shank backed right out with my fingers.
While at Lowes a picked up a couple 10 - 24 button head CS 1/2" screws. Perfect replacement.
I remember my tool and die days... an EZ Out is not something you want to snap off in a screw. That made for a really bad day at work.
In another life I had a set of Camaro headers with 3 EZ Coils on each head and yes I can do some mighty knalry cursing when I neanderthal shear an ez-out...lol
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So, I have the pot heating up and the WC mold in the oven with the newly installed medium length pins in it.
I'm going to give these pellets a fair shake. With all the guns I have that cover several platforms, power levels and barrel characteristics, I should be able to find them a home.
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You OK Bill ??? or did GTA go on the blink ?
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My PID is complete fired up and showed 27C in the room and rose to 29C with the TC in my palm, the default was 150C so the relay light was on. Using the super glue trick I was able to strip the cloth insulation and mate the Male yellow plug to my TC. Put the heat sink and rubber feet in the box and thermopasted the relay to the heat sink. Last task will be to make a standoff/mount for the TC probe on the pot.
I should be casting NOE68 slugs and NOE217 Hunters this weekend. That should cover everything I shoot except the two Gamos; 177 Pistol and the jumper likes lead free GTO and H&N. Good news is the 177 pistol pellets go into the Gamo reactive trap and then the pot :-)
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You OK Bill ??? or did GTA go on the blink ?
LOL.... I'm good.
I cast some sample of the WC and they varied 2gr from from the 4 cavities but the 17 and 18gr shot great from my fake 3622.
Today I'm going to pour samples from each cavity and keep them separate. I want to see if I need to do some fine tuning of the pins to make the weights closer among them all. I'll pour about 10 or so from each cavity.
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What I do when checking mold accuracy, is fill the mold on the last pour, then let cool and inspect them as I remove them 1 by 1.
Good to see you ok and BL didn't feed you something not so good ;)
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No, she ended up not making anything for dinner. We were both pretty full from that big breakfast. I had a big bowl of honey nut cherios before bed.
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Minor setback this morning....
I went into the Red Shed this morning with every intention of tinkering with the WC mold.
All of a sudden that dang Secret Squirrel showed up :o
I noticed a Tupperware full of reclaimed pellets frm a trap I had cleaned out. I took the hood off the hot plate mold oven and poured that stuff in a pan. I got 3 nice shiny corn cob ingots out of it after scooping all the junk out and fluxing with some saw dust.
Then I decided to melt down and turn all those muffin pucks into corn cob ingots because they are much easier to add to the pot as cobs. I got 2 runs in the 8 cob cast iron mold and the 3rd started. It was halfway to pour ready when I noticed it was turning solid again. The hot plate was not glowing red anymore.
I plugged it into the pot PID to see if it was the hot plate or the PID. Yeah, it's the hot plate... Maybe I burned the element or a wire. I'll open it up once it cools and have a look.... providing that dang squirrel don't show up again. :o
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https://youtu.be/xrAIGLkSMls?feature=shared
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LOL...
I must be livin' right.
Nick was at the barn and I stopped in to see him. He told me he was going to pick up his new dog (Miniature Bully). Said he was going to build a kennel on the back of the barn and asked if I had any of those chain link kennel panels left. I told him I had 2 of them he could have.
We came up to the house to drag them out and the Red Shed was open so we went in and I was telling him about burning up my hot plate this morning.
He said he had a 2 burner hot plate still in the box.. he bought it for when he went to work on the pipe line but never used it. He is going to drop it off when he picks up the kennel panels later today.
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(https://media.giphy.com/media/v1.Y2lkPTc5MGI3NjExcWExOGtpZGN6Nzkwb3RtNHFqaWY4d2UzY3MyYTRuZDBkZmg4czU2ZyZlcD12MV9pbnRlcm5hbF9naWZfYnlfaWQmY3Q9Zw/26gsvAm8UPaczzXz2/giphy.gif)
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I guess love is in the air. Today I went over to my neighbors to help him with his yard. While there, I was gifted with some needed bamboo stalks for my garden along with a half bag of 13-13-13 which allowed me to get my beans in the ground. Also, some very nice legs for my big slab of red oak I want to make a table with.
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That great..
I almost forgot...
When Nick saw all the clearing we had been doing around the place he said he has several bags of grass seed he would drop off. It's the good stuff they use for reclaiming on the pipe line.
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Maiden PID voyage cast some NOE Hunters dropped median of 19.4 with several 19.3 and 19.5. I kept 19.2 to 19.8 but am real pleased with the consistency. Still a lot of culls, but of course they just go back in the pot. So the China model I have does not support Fahrenheit so Dr. Google says set point is 371C. Will need to do some experimenting with the settings as we reached 400C peak and a low of 317C. Pot level seams to affect temperature as well. The Notos grouped well with these and the SPA pistola cycled them well through the Cooku clock...
Culls on the left in the photo
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I got a 50% cull rate on my first run of the 4 cav WC mold this morning.
If I look on the bright side, that would have been 100% on my 2 cav RF mold. ;) ;D
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That sounds about right. At least for me that rate wasn't confidence inspiring. The small WC mold is not a good first mold for a beginner. Fortunately, I had cast before, so I figured that something wasn't quite right. On the other hand, having four cavities does mean that once you get the hang of it, you can crank out more. In my case I needed a mold preheat, then yields got better. Oh yeah, had to stay out of the wind.
Weather is crappy today, it snowed and now it's sleeting. Hopefully it will all turn to rain soon. Not a good garage day. Looking forward to some nicer weather.
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Bruce...
I went back out and pulled the 2 cav 217 20 RF out of the toaster oven with the PID set at 130c. The pot was at 700f and I ladle poured around 50 drops (100 pellets). I had 6 culls and the rest dropped between 18.4 an 18.7.
Next run on the WC mold I will find the 2 best cavities and just pour those 2.
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Sounds like you are well experienced now. I don't even look at the first three or four pours. I dump them in the recycle bin. I know from experience those could very well be out of spec. I do this to make sure the mold, pins and sprue plate are up to good temps. With having a full 20lb pot to start it's not a huge deal. I don't put any culls back in the pot until the flow gets too low, or the level drops below the temp probe. This is to not disturb the top coating which keeps the lead from oxidizing. I use the Frankford Arsenal CleanCast as the topcoat. It's good stuff and only a pinch will do, so it will last a long time.
(https://i.ibb.co/4FgPWHM/Frankford-Arsenal-Cleancast-Lead-Flux.jpg)
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Bruce...
I went back out and pulled the 2 cav 217 20 RF out of the toaster oven with the PID set at 130c. The pot was at 700f and I ladle poured around 50 drops (100 pellets). I had 6 culls and the rest dropped between 18.4 an 18.7.
Next run on the WC mold I will find the 2 best cavities and just pour those 2.
I think the issue is it's a bigger mold to get up to temperature. The smaller weight of the pellet doesn't help much either. Might need to up the oven or hot plate temp a little to compensate.
Really need the PID to work on the mold temp, not the oven temp. How one would do that, not sure. Put a thermocouple on the mold? But getting and keeping the mold temp right would seem to be something to strive for.
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Sounds like you are well experienced now. I don't even look at the first three or four pours. I dump them in the recycle bin. I know from experience those could very well be out of spec. I do this to make sure the mold, pins and sprue plate are up to good temps. With having a full 20lb pot to start it's not a huge deal. I don't put any culls back in the pot until the flow gets too low, or the level drops below the temp probe. This is to not disturb the top coating which keeps the lead from oxidizing. I use the Frankford Arsenal CleanCast as the topcoat. It's good stuff and only a pinch will do, so it will last a long time.
(https://i.ibb.co/4FgPWHM/Frankford-Arsenal-Cleancast-Lead-Flux.jpg)
Good point on just dumping the first pours, those won't be any good. (At least none of mine were.)
The Cleancast works quite well. No smoke or flames, unlike candle wax! I've heard that that flux may absorb water, so you need to keep it covered and dry. Haven't had trouble with mine, but I've been keeping my powder dry.
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Never had any trouble with the CleanCast getting damp, but thanks for the heads-up. I find it works great and is clean and very easy to use. I had trouble with sawdust clogging my particular spout, or at least I blamed it on the sawdust.
You're right. I have used Gulf wax/paraffin wax. I always have to prepare for the flame. It has caused me to jerk at times and spread some lead to unwanted places.
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Fiddling with programing the PID adjusted to 365C set point as my Pot was having trouble getting to 371C. It's a new to me so there may be an upgrade in my future (or overhaul).
Already had the TC plug short out. Had to re-wire and now running fine.
Took the drill to my $1.97 4 pack of wallyworld teaspoons and made a dross ladle...lol
Ran another 120 keepers of 217RF20 almost half 19.4 and 19.2-19.6 range. I now have a 400 tin of hunters and two dozen for testing.
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Fiddling with programing the PID adjusted to 365C set point as my Pot was having trouble getting to 371C. It's a new to me so there may be an upgrade in my future (or overhaul).
Already had the TC plug short out. Had to re-wire and now running fine.
Took the drill to my $1.97 4 pack of wallyworld teaspoons and made a dross ladle...lol
Ran another 120 keepers of 217RF20 almost half 19.4 and 19.2-19.6 range. I now have a 400 tin of hunters and two dozen for testing.
Are you using the molds I traded you? Glad to see its working for you if so!
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Fiddling with programing the PID adjusted to 365C set point as my Pot was having trouble getting to 371C. It's a new to me so there may be an upgrade in my future (or overhaul).
Already had the TC plug short out. Had to re-wire and now running fine.
Took the drill to my $1.97 4 pack of wallyworld teaspoons and made a dross ladle...lol
Ran another 120 keepers of 217RF20 almost half 19.4 and 19.2-19.6 range. I now have a 400 tin of hunters and two dozen for testing.
Are you using the molds I traded you? Glad to see its working for you if so!
Yessir I am hooked. Down the rabbit hole with Chinese PID and to build PID oven conversion.
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Took the day off to see the Dentist :-( came home and cast about 250 NOE68HP. Cull rate was 47% all me doing something wrong. I did clean both my molds this morning but still need to focus on clamping to eliminate the vertical seam. IIDMP dropping gorgeous 63.3gr .300 diameter.
So the 99.9% pure are Okay for deer sized vitals, but not squirrel. The .303 Challenger loves the NSA 47.2grx.303 slugs which are 40:1. The NOE cadd drawing shows the driving bands as .303 so I'm guessing the 99.9 is shrinking a little and the 40:1 should drop right at .302ish and group better.
Ordered 10 pounds of 40:1 from RotoMetals for testing. The Notos and SPA800r are both grouping the NOE Hunters acceptable in 99.9 so I might have to keep two lead piles or just cast the Hunters at 40:1 as well.
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Nice testing of pure lead verses with a little tin to help fill out the mold better.
The seams could mean the lead is being poured too hot. Or, if you drop the temp more this can help with preventing the seams. I like to pour my lead no hotter than what it takes to keep the spout from clogging up. I usually pour at 735° and put some wood around the bottom to help keep the spout protected from my window fan which is also angled away.
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Nice testing of pure lead verses with a little tin to help fill out the mold better.
The seams could mean the lead is being poured too hot. Or, if you drop the temp more this can help with preventing the seams. I like to pour my lead no hotter than what it takes to keep the spout from clogging up. I usually pour at 735° and put some wood around the bottom to help keep the spout protected from my window fan which is also angled away.
x2 on temp to cast at, I had my temp creep up on me I knew that as the sprue puddle was spreading out thinner and faster, quick dip of a thermometer confirmed that.
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My intuition and this forum serve me well I moved my set point from 371C to 355C. My RF20's in 99.9 pure were dropping at 19.3 or 19.4. Everything 19.5 and greater had the seem showing. I did notice the spru running fast and thin at 380C. Cull rate was down to about 40% so I kept 75 pellets.
I will try the NOE68 at 335-340C to see if they cast closer to .303 while I wait on the 40:1 from Roto.
Plenty more to learn and an oven to convert to PID control and having a ton of fum!
I think I am also going to cull everything that can't group the NOE217RF's. Be interesting to see how the IGT jumper likes them.....
Only own AGs that I can cast for....or at least that's the plan
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Looks like it's working out well for you... enjoy.
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Yep, well on your way to being a master caster.
It's interesting how you and Bill can cast at lower temps than I can. It must be the difference between the 10lb verses the 20lb pots. 735° is about as low as I have been able to go and still be able to have good pours.
I am down for the count for a while after my extension ladder slipped out from under me yesterday, dislocating my shoulder. Fun, fun. The doc got it back into the socket but can't use my right arm for six weeks.
(https://i.ibb.co/5GWcB7Y/Lee-90947-Pro-4-20-20lb-pot.jpg)
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Holy smokes Keith! 🙏 You get better fast.
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Holy smokes Keith! You get better fast.
Thanks! It's a pain, for sure. It happened really fast.
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Dang Keith... do what the doc says. Trust me, you do not want this total reverse shoulder replacement like I have. :o
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Dang Keith... do what the doc says. Trust me, you do not want this total reverse shoulder replacement like I have. :o
NO, I don't want none of that. So much I want/need to do but can't now. They didn't give me many happy pills either, so I am having to stretch them out as best I can.
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Sorry to hear that Keith!
Hope you mend soon.
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Sorry to hear that Keith!
Hope you mend soon.
Thanks Scott! I feel stupid now but have been up on the roof many times without any issues and have lived up on a ladder for forty years as a service tech. This one got me because of a wet deck surface. I got the branch off the roof though, lol.
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Yep, well on your way to being a master caster.
It's interesting how you and Bill can cast at lower temps than I can. It must be the difference between the 10lb verses the 20lb pots. 735° is about as low as I have been able to go and still be able to have good pours.
I am down for the count for a while after my extension ladder slipped out from under me yesterday, dislocating my shoulder. Fun, fun. The doc got it back into the socket but can't use my right arm for six weeks.
(https://i.ibb.co/5GWcB7Y/Lee-90947-Pro-4-20-20lb-pot.jpg)
Mend soon. Do all the PT assigned. Hang Tough
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Thanks! A long road ahead. I already have an orthopedic lined up. Fun, fun.
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Tore apart the "new to me" 10# pot reassembled without the Rheostat (let the PID do that). At a set point of 345 she held 343 to 345 never overshot and dropped as low as 300C. I'm gonna say ole girl is ready for a new heating coil which Larry over at Midway has for $12.99. Funny how I put a BSA Edge scope for the SPA800r in my cart....still evaluating
The hunters dropped at 19.1-19.5 most 19.2-19.4 65 keepers and a cull of about 35 so getting better and still learning and having fun.
I am still experimenting with the P,I and D input values....I know, it's an OCD Engineer thing.....
This tin of 140 will get tested in the Scope Busting Jumper to see if they can group. She likes H&N PbF 9.57s so we'll see about these heavy
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The NOE217RF20s that dropped at 20 wouldn't fit in the scope busting jumper. The 19.3s fit snug with some coaxing. They grouped pretty good.
First photo of the groups then another with the same pellets after I adjusted my length of pull.
So I have a (cast) pellet that works in all my .22s!
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My first run of 40:1 cast 91 NOE68 slugs and culled 28 so about 1/3rd culls. The balance did drop higher (previous 62.3) at 62.6 to 63.5 with the bulk 63.0 or 62.7. The previous .300 appears to be .302 now so we'll see how these group in the .303 Challenger. Curious now if the NOE217RF20 would drop at 20.0, but I like them softer and afraid the 40:1 might not chamber in the jumper or SPA800r as we're tight in both with the 99.9.
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That's very good. I sold the only BBT mold for .25 cal that I had. I never could get it to agree with my FX liners. Maybe I used the wrong lead but am fairly sure I used the 40 to 1 as that was all that I had at the time.
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So the NOE68 BTHP did fill out better with 40:1 at .302 versus .300 for the 99.9%pure.
Shot two 9 shot groups at 10M prone with front bag. The first two shots are low and shot 3 or 4 is usually high left.
I feel like these groups are tighter than the 99.9% but still not as tight as the NSA .303
I will check them at 24yards next time I go to the LGR but might put the 70mm spring and shim back in for another try at 4,000psi fill now that I have .302 slugs.
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Well, there's some decent grouping in there. You really won't know what you have until you are able to stretch the distance out more.
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Been slacking on casting lately. I was able to replace my burned up hot plate and for testing I melted all the muffin tin pucks and poured them into the corn cob ingots. Those just fit better in the pot.
Anyways... I went out this morning and fired things up.
Something strange... My NOE 2 cav 217 20 RF aluminum mold has 217 20 WC stamped on it. It's absolutely the RF mold.. mis stamp I guess. I don't have a 2 cav WC mold.. the one I have is a 4 cav.
I got the first batch of 100 +- in the tumbler and the sprues back in the pot. I'll drop 3 or 4 batches today and call it good.
Once the pot comes back up I'll drop another batch and get those in the tumbler and refill the pot. While that pot is coming back to temp I'll cull and weigh the first batch. Rinse and repeat.
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4 100 pellet runs this morning. Last 100 is in the tumbler. Of the 3 batches I culled 30 pellets. Maybe 10 due to deforming (short pours) and the rest due to under or over my 19.30 - 19.50 range rule.
400 may sound like alot but they go pretty good once I get my rhythm going. I can make a drop of 2 around every 10 or 15 seconds.
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Well, there's some decent grouping in there. You really won't know what you have until you are able to stretch the distance out more.
Need to make a LGR day for some 24M groups agreed...
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I look at it like if I am going to sit and cast might as well make a full tin counts worth, 400 is in that ballpark, and $20 less one has to pay for a tin of good stuff..
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First round of 250 27 RF in the tumbler. I thought I had a bunch of these poured but I guess not. I want to spend a few days with the Avenger and it really likes these pellets.
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400 dropped between 29.2 and 29.5 with the medium pins. So far a shot a full 6 mags (48 shots) and it's time to air the gun back up and reload the mags.
This is probably the most consistent gun I own in accuracy from shot to shot at 35 yards. The smile factor is way off the chart. Part of the reason is due to the fact that it shoots my cast pellets as good or better than any marketed pellet I've run through it. That was my goal when I got into casting.
My only other .25 gun is the Hatsan 1k vortex break barrel. That gun does not shoot my cast pellets well. It does like most of the marketed pellets I have on hand. Once those pellets are all gone, that gun will be too. I just can't afford to feed it with today's prices on pellets. Especially since I'm just a target shooter.
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Back to the NOE68 Sunny today so instead of waiting for LGR and 24yds I shot the Powder Coated slugs at 14.7yds. Group on the left calipered at .303 and the vertical line on the right is the .304 and larger. I'm going to aggressively re-clean all the molds and try some NOE68 with 2 coats of HF PC and see what diameter they come out. Looks like the AG likes .304 Powder Coated and back to tweaking the fill pressure to tighten the ES....
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Sighted in the Notos with JSB 18s last row I'd say is zeroed. Then went back to the NOE217RF. Still getting flyers so back down the rabbit hole gonna re-clean the mold and continue to work on technique, temperature control and QA/QC inspection. The gauntlet has been thrown down
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So I changed the pins in the NOE217RF20 to flat skirt and they dropped at 26ish.
I will have to adjust the pin height as more than 2/3 culls with flash makes me believe 1 of the 2 pins is shorter. The cleaned molds seam to have eliminated the thin seam problem IIDMP. I sorted on diameter of greater than .225 going to the cull pile first.
Then I weighed them everything 26.8gr+ had some rim (shorter pin) so they got culled as well the centroid seams to be 25.8 to 26.3 If I fix the pin length and improve my technique a little I think I can use 25.7 to 26.3 as my keeper range. I'm calling these plugs or sleletts. It rained this morning and then I had a door latch on Babygirl's Fiesta to fix once it was sunny maybe pellet testing through the Notos this week.
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From what I've read the flat based pellets aren't very accurate. No experience personally so.....
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Seems they would be tail heavy and tumble in flight. But that's also just a guess. I don't know how that stuff works but I bet Bob Sterne does.. ;)
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Here's the groups for the NOE217RF25.5's flat base through the Notos at 14yards.
The tight group is the 25.4-25.7 and the nest best is 25.8-26.0.
Seems like the 25.4-25.7 had no imperfections. Closer looking the 25.8-26.0 had some minor flashing.
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Solved some PID issues, like a dummy I had the Pot plugged into the switched outlet and kept wondering why I kept overshooting...squirrel...lol
Dropping at 330-335C now, getting better at techniques, cleaned mold again, adjusted and oiled pins and cast some beautiful 217RF19.4s. I forgot to get a picture but shot two five shot groups that were one ragged hole! So when cast properly, the NOE217RF20 casts a perfectly acceptable hunting pellet for the Notos. Once I get the Romeo mounted I hope the SPA800r project will feed these as well. If they group, the chamber will get gently modified. These groups pictured involved picking one pellet at a time as "perfect" and culling about 3-4 for each keeper into the recast jar. The few flyers are "questionable" QA/QCs that I let pass. When the pellet looks perfect and drops about 19.4-19.5 they group one ragged hole, which is dead squirrels all day long. So now I just have to keep trolling this thread learning and improving IIDMP with casting.
For comparison, the NOE IMHO groups as good as the production H&N 18gr Hunters. My tune is sub 700fps at these weights so no HP expansion going on, just a 20gr, 20fpe headache...lol
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Looks good.
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Looks good.
Thanks for the words of encouragement. Like you I would like to cast for my AG or only have AG that my casts work for. A long journey but with many rewards.
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Quite the advancement from your humble beginnings. I can sense you want it, so have no doubt you will reach your goals.
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Quite the advancement from your humble beginnings. I can sense you want it, so have no doubt you will reach your goals.
Again thanks! Trolling this thread and learning as much as I can. Love GTA for the knowledge share.
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So wise ones, I'll state my theory and welcome responses, comments and input.
The NOE68FN is going on WTS/WTT. The $80 for the Harbor Frieght powder coat gun could go towards a bespoke mold. With the value of the NOE68FN to add to my purchase someone with a .299 (99.9% pure) or .3005 barrel these pellets would give some nice fpe. The .303 Challenger tolerates them at best. If anyone has the ability to size I have a tin of .305-.306 splotchy hand shaken HF black powder coats, might even come with a 80% bottle of HF Black and some
un-coated (Pam) oiled slugs(these are offered as pay it forward). Pretty sure sizing them down the barrel would not be good for Challenger accuracy. Pretty sure I don't want to put them in the pot and "burn off the impurity" powder coating.
So in theory at 847-891fps my 61.5gr HP NSAs are just barely fast enough to expand,but good for 100+fpe.
Option 1 is to order the Accurate Molds 30-62A @ .303 +.002/-.000. It is not a HP but should be switchable without too mush scope adjustment.
Option 2 is the 30-70A @ .303 +.002/-.000. It is not a HP and guessing would tune around 800-820fps (subsonic and no deformation).
I'm thinking a 100+fpe 70gr smack should be 45ACP style knockdown power for everything Coyote and smaller. Should be adequate for veal sized Hawgs behind the ear. I said I wouldn't point the Challenger at a deer, but now I'm thinking I shoot a 70gr .223 in my MSR, While 800fps will not do for a high shoulder shot it should go through the boiler room from sub 50 yards as good as my 425fps crossbow bolt. Here in Georgia we get a week between Bow and Firearms of "Primitive" (black powder) deer season and airguns are allowed during primitive seasons. I'm thinking it be worth a week of run-n-gun with the Challenger and popup blind, if nothing else something to carry during pre-rut scouting that gives squirrels headaches out to 60 yards (if I can see that far).
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Went with the AM 30-62A at .303 +.002/-0.000 should arrive early July.
Cast a g ood run of 217RF Hunters with 40:1.
1/3 cull 1/3 19.4 and 1/3 19.5 with a few strays 19.3-19.6
Getting better with practice.
Made some stickers so I know have a tin of 19.2, 19.3 and 19.4 (sort and add, shoot from one tin all the same weight).
Looks like I'll have to start filling a 19.5 tin....
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Got a PM from a senior about Beagling so I cast a dozen NOE68FN and picked the roundest .300 polishing stone, jammed a drill bit in it and smeared with toothpaste and gave each cavity a 30 second spin with the corded drill. After cleaning off the paste they fell out of the mold like butter all smooth and shinny but now .2975-.2995....hmm...
I guess I'll have to give each cavity a good minute and maybe add more grit to my toothpaste....or go by the auto parts store and buy proper valve grind paste.....
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I had the Avenger out yesterday and saw that I only have around 200 .25 cast pellets in the container. At 50ish shots per fill those ain't gonna last very long. So I reckon I'll fire up Casting Corner today. I have some Nascar, PBR, F1 and Motocross stuff recorded so I can put some of that on the flat screen.
The 4 cavity mold can make a pretty good pile in just a short time. If I can get some good consistent drops I can pump out 500 rounds pretty quickly. I'm going to check the pin settings, wax the alignment pins/sprue cutter screw and smoke the mold before I start.
On second thought... I think I'm going to drill and pin the handles before I do anything.
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Poured a 10 drop (40 pellet) test run and I realized i had the medium pins in the mold last time I poured and they didn't shoot well. So I let the mold cool and swapped pins but that didn't seem to be quite right either. The mold was sticky opening and closing. So I swapped to a different set and they fit right. First ones must have been from a different mold... I thought they were all the same... maybe different from .22 to .25. ?
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60 pages so far! Wow. Time for me to get back to this. Have a 27gr mold BBT in 22 to try out. It's finally getting nice enough to consider casting outdoors here. Maybe I can give it a try tomorrow afternoon. I bet once it heats up it will be loads easier to cast than the WC mold.
As an aside, I hope NOE gets back in production again soon. Got an email today describing some of the issues they have been having to deal with. Probably be the end of the year before things get close to normal again.
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This just arrived thanks to NOE
41 gr bbt .25 cal (somewhat lighter w/HP inserts).
I have wanted one one of these for a looong time.
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I have always tuned my guns with accuracy and shot count in mind. It may be time to rethink that in some cases.
Tuning for shot count, as we all know, required reducing power/fps. The down side to that, from my experience, is that I need to use lighter projectiles. My current .22 tunes shoot 18.1 and less. The problem there is that available molds are 20 and heavier.
So maybe I need to explore bumping power up to see if I can get better accuracy from the heavier molds I have here.
As for .25... not a problem there, the Avenger shoots what ever I feed it very well.
I've swapped the Sentry from .25 to .22 and it shoots production pellets well at it's current tune... not so much with the heavier cast stuff (Hunters and Magnums). That gun might be a good one to start testing at higher power levels.
I have compressors and the ability to cast. I no longer need to worry about the cost of shooting as when I was paying to have tanks filled and buying pellets and paying shipping.
I've probably said it 1000 times, I'm not a hunter. I pest and plink/target shoot. Big power was never a goal for me but if I expect to sling heavier stuff down range I should probably change that goal some.
Sweet... a new adventure.
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That's a fairly heavy mold for a typical .25 cal. unless you have something to sling them well with.
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That's a fairly heavy mold for a typical .25 cal. unless you have something to sling them well with.
Oh yeah.... the Avenger stacks them.
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Still no joy with the toothpaste beagled NOE68s in the .303 Challenger....went overboard with the corded drill and valve grind paste so one cavity is now a .305x.309 oval. The other Cavity is now dropping .3015x.302 at 63 to 63.8gr so I'll see how those group soon. I'll either end up with the Lee Hand Press and NOE sizer dies or keep my one cavity .302 mold for hollow points if they group
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Rockin' up some 217 24 RF Magnums with the long pins this morning. First batch of around 100 is in the tumbler. Sprues back in the pot coming back up to 700f and the mold is in the oven set at 140c.
Gonna grab some brunch and head back out to drop another batch.
With the rain on the tin roof, the a/c running and the tumbler going I almost need ear plugs. I asked Betty Lou to knock on the door if she happens to come out. My back is to the door and I wouldn't hear her come up behind me. I would most likely jump and dump hot lead all over myself.
What better to do on a rainy day?
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Dropped a total of 300 pellets. I tumbled and sorted into 2 weights... 22.20 (+- .10) and 22.40 (+-.10).
About 50 pellets didn't pass muster and went back to the pot. Ended up with slightly more 22.20 than 22.40.
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The toothpaste beagled slugs did not group. I am gently beagling and casting 20 or so pellets then break out the calipers...I must have recycled my sprus so much that my 40:1 is near pure as I'm dropping at .300 but at least round again....7 weeks left before the Accurate Molds arrives....
Cast up a batch of 217RF20s which I will sort into 19.3, 19.4, 19.5 and 19.6 tins and pot all out of spec and visual blemishes...I am getting consistent results resting the mold on the crucible during the warming process....still haven't frankensteined the oven to PID control....
The same weight RFs are grouping ragged hole at 15 yards in the Notos...about twice as large as the hole Apollo 18s stack in, but fine for backyard reactives and technically MOS accurate.
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Are you lapping the mold? Because to do what you are saying involves placing material in-between the mold halves to make the projectile larger. It is temporary.
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That's a fairly heavy mold for a typical .25 cal. unless you have something to sling them well with.
True. Not a problem in this case but thanks for the warning
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Back in Casting Corner this morning...
I finished up with the Magnums yesterday afternoon. I ended up with a full tin of each weight range... 22.10 - 22.30 and 22.31 - 22.50.
This morning I swapped over to the Hunters. The 2 weight ranges I'm dropping with these are 19.30 - 19.50 and 19.51 - 19.70.
Anything over and under these ranges goes back in the pot. With these tighter keeper specs I'm getting a 20 - 25% cull rate. Even if the pellets look good (no visible flaws), if they don't pass the weight range muster, they go back in the pot.
Why am I doing this?
Because if a gun don't throw acceptable groups, I want to narrow down the reason. I think .2 is an acceptable tolerance. If a particular gun can't do 1/2" groups at 30yds. then I know that the gun can't love my cast pellets and may need some tuning to get there... or it just can't get there.
Again.. the goal is to stop paying the ridiculous prices (including shipping) of production pellets.
Once I run out of the production pellets I have on hand, the guns that won't acceptably shoot my cast pellets will be candidates for the chopping block and will be culled from the arsenal.
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I did test the .22 Senrty yesterday and got 1/2" groups with the Hunters but that was from a batch that weren't sorted. The Magnums opened up to 1" groups at 35yds. I had cranked the power wheel up to 4.
I posted those results in it's respective thread...
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=206991.msg156533789#msg156533789
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This morning I broke out the Hatsan Flash QE .22.
I was pleasantly surprised at the results.
I didn't even mess with the tune to get a baseline.
Both weights of the Hunters virtually stacked at 35yds and opened up to 1/2" at 45yds.
The Magnums gave me 1/2" at 35yds and opened to 3/4 - 1" at 45yds.
I was able to spin the center of the TSC .22RF spinner 1 full rev at 45yds.
Even more impressive was the fact that results didn't change over 3 12rd mags per fill ;D
With that, the Hatsan Flash QE .22 has a home. ;)
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Up next will be the NoDoze (Umarex Notos)..
If there was ever a gun that I would consider buying production pellets for, it would be this one. :o
Not being a fan of the tactical style guns, this one wormed it's way into my heart. If anyone followed my thread on this gun they would see I have this gun set right where I want it ... with the JTS Dead Center 18.1 pellets. (and to be honest, I hate that :-X )
I am hopeful that it will do well with at least one of the 4 cast pellets I'm dropping.
I'm going to begin with the Hunter 19.4 and if they perform I'll be as happy as a kid with a pet frog.
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DERAIL ALERT !!! (I can do that, it's my thread ;) )
Speaking of frogs.. While I was completely immersed in focusing on the Flash I heard a bone chilling scream. I'm not a scaredy cat by no stretch but this was so close and loud that it definitely got my attention.
A rather large toad had crawled it's way to the top of one of the natural tree posts I used to build the lean to roof. Apparently it was in the mood for love and looking for a partner because it went to screeching out it's love song.
I encouraged it to take it's dating app elsewhere.
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DERAIL ALERT !!! (I can do that, it's my thread ;) )
Speaking of frogs.. While I was completely immersed in focusing on the Flash I heard a bone chilling scream. I'm not a scaredy cat by no stretch but this was so close and loud that it definitely got my attention.
A rather large toad had crawled it's way to the top of one of the natural tree posts I used to build the lean to roof. Apparently it was in the mood for love and looking for a partner because it went to screeching out it's love song.
I encouraged it to take it's dating app elsewhere.
It took one look at ya and fell in love 💕💕💕.
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DERAIL ALERT !!! (I can do that, it's my thread ;) )
Speaking of frogs.. While I was completely immersed in focusing on the Flash I heard a bone chilling scream. I'm not a scaredy cat by no stretch but this was so close and loud that it definitely got my attention.
A rather large toad had crawled it's way to the top of one of the natural tree posts I used to build the lean to roof. Apparently it was in the mood for love and looking for a partner because it went to screeching out it's love song.
I encouraged it to take it's dating app elsewhere.
It took one look at ya and fell in love 💕💕💕.
LOL too funny..
Betty Lou and I were out there trying ti decide what we were going to do to replace the fallen Quonset. We were sitting and talking and the frog decided to share it's opinion.
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Are you lapping the mold? Because to do what you are saying involves placing material in-between the mold halves to make the projectile larger. It is temporary.
I didn't think of that. I am chucking up an already cast .2995 slug smeared with valve grind polish and spinning with drill. Today's gentle polish dropped at .3015-.302
Pretty sure they won't group worth a darn yet but I have 2-3 mags sorted and about the same amount for rejects (underweight - air assumed).
The pellets look good but have a wide variety in weight so probably something in my technique is randomly introducing air pockets keepers were 60.8 to 62.5 sorted in groups of .3gr
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Showing my Newby status another interweb article suggested reading a book on casting (Lyman for one) and I found the PDF "Ingot to Target" on the web. Devoured the first 4 chapters before the SSS started jumping around....
Take aways;
The author warms the mold on the edge of the crucible like I do
Reaffirmation to switch back to sawdust for flux (memsahib just gave me some beeswax cause she didn't like the smell of my paraffin)
Author's recommendation for accuracy is to slug the barrel (need calipers) to the nearest 10 thousandth, order your mold 2-3 thous over and lap the sizer to exactly the calipered/slugged diameter (makes perfect sense to the engineer-a near zero tolerance parts match)
I am studying his comments on meplats and solid SWC for larger game...hmmm.
Looks like I will be purchasing the .0001" reading calipers, Lee hand press and .303 sizing dies. If I ever get a big bore this will be valuable learning and/or I could slug the fire breathing hand cannon and cast some accurate 10mm SWC's for larger game...hmmm
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Get a micrometer instead. Much more accurate than a caliper especially for measuring to the.0001.
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Get a micrometer instead. Much more accurate than a caliper especially for measuring to the.0001.
I believe that's what the author said and I miss paraphrased. It's in my Amazon cart....
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Are you lapping the mold? Because to do what you are saying involves placing material in-between the mold halves to make the projectile larger. It is temporary.
I didn't think of that. I am chucking up an already cast .2995 slug smeared with valve grind polish and spinning with drill. Today's gentle polish dropped at .3015-.302
Pretty sure they won't group worth a darn yet but I have 2-3 mags sorted and about the same amount for rejects (underweight - air assumed).
The pellets look good but have a wide variety in weight so probably something in my technique is randomly introducing air pockets keepers were 60.8 to 62.5 sorted in groups of .3gr
Groups as expected were better but meh
Might try a few more gentle lapping while waiting on the AM
I did cast a ton of 217RF19.4s only a third back in the pot and fat bell shape curve of 19.3-19.7 mostly 19.4. I kept about a dozen 19.8-20 for plinking. I have reduced the flow length below the pour spout so almost like a pressure pour. Still learning and improving...
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Every now and then a pleasant surprise just sneaks up on you....
I've been testing my cast .22 pellets in guns I have. I have 3 molds...
217 20 RF Hunter
217 22 RF Magnum
And a wadcutter mold that I have yet to even explore much.
I use the long pins on the Hunters and Magnums and sort them in 2 weight groups for each.
The Hunters I sort into 19.20 +- .10 and 19.40 +- .10. The Mags I sort into 22.40 +- .10 and 22.60 +- .10.
The gun I chose to test today was the FD-PCP. This is one of the XS60C guns that were converted to PCP by FDAR.
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The FD-PCP has always been set up to shoot CPUM 14.3 so I figured I should start with the lightest pellets first... the Hunters.
First thing I noticed was how tight they fit. I had to bump the bolt to get them to load and they (both weights) didn't give me better results than 1" at 30yds.
At that point I thought "case closed", not gonna happen. But just for gits and shiggles I loaded a Magnum 22.40..
Wait, did the pellet fall out? Nope, loaded right in like it was made for it. The next 20 shots gave me sub 1/2" groups at 30 yds.
I topped the gun back off and tried the 22.60... back to 1" groups.
Back to the 22.40... with a slight hold over I could get the same 1/2" groups to 45yds.
I logged those results in my airgun journal.
I'm a happy boy. ;)
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The FD-PCP has always been set up to shoot CPUM 14.3 so I figured I should start with the lightest pellets first... the Hunters.
First thing I noticed was how tight they fit. I had to bump the bolt to get them to load and they (both weights) didn't give me better results than 1" at 30yds.
At that point I thought "case closed", not gonna happen. But just for gits and shiggles I loaded a Magnum 22.40..
Wait, did the pellet fall out? Nope, loaded right in like it was made for it. The next 20 shots gave me sub 1/2" groups at 30 yds.
I topped the gun back off and tried the 22.60... back to 1" groups.
Back to the 22.40... with a slight hold over I could get the same 1/2" groups to 45yds.
I logged those results in my airgun journal.
I'm a happy boy. ;)
I'm sold on your sorting for groups. Looks like you found another winner.
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The FD-PCP has always been set up to shoot CPUM 14.3 so I figured I should start with the lightest pellets first... the Hunters.
First thing I noticed was how tight they fit. I had to bump the bolt to get them to load and they (both weights) didn't give me better results than 1" at 30yds.
At that point I thought "case closed", not gonna happen. But just for gits and shiggles I loaded a Magnum 22.40..
Wait, did the pellet fall out? Nope, loaded right in like it was made for it. The next 20 shots gave me sub 1/2" groups at 30 yds.
I topped the gun back off and tried the 22.60... back to 1" groups.
Back to the 22.40... with a slight hold over I could get the same 1/2" groups to 45yds.
I logged those results in my airgun journal.
I'm a happy boy. ;)
I'm sold on your sorting for groups. Looks like you found another winner.
I have to admit that it takes a long time and it's not my favorite thing to do but, if I had not sorted them I would have chocked it up as this gun, and maybe others, just wouldn't shoot my cast pellets.
But, I am retired with time on my hands and I am committed to casting pellets and saving money. If I was still working 8 to 12 hours a day, 6 and 7 days a week my free time might be more valuable.
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I cast some 217RF19.4s today with my last two "muffins" of pure 99.9....
I culled more than half as under-weight skirts not fully formed...obviously a technique issue.
The alignment pins were cleaned and lubed and closing nicely. None of the pellets had the vertical line. I'm going to re-clean this mold with the toothbrush again anyway and see if I can do better.
I stole Avator's sorting concept and repurposed some old tins with the help of a razor blade (for the decal) and a Laser printer.
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I cast some 217RF19.4s today with my last two "muffins" of pure 99.9....
I culled more than half as under-weight skirts not fully formed...obviously a technique issue.
The alignment pins were cleaned and lubed and closing nicely. None of the pellets had the vertical line. I'm going to re-clean this mold with the toothbrush again anyway and see if I can do better.
I stole Avator's sorting concept and repurposed some old tins with the help of a razor blade (for the decal) and a Laser printer.
A couple questions...
Is this mold brass or aluminum?
Are you preheating the mold with it open? What temp? For how long?
How hot is your pot?
Is temp gauge at the top or the bottom?
Are you dipping or bottom pouring?
Skirts not filling out, in my experience, is from the lead cooling to fast... either the mold or the lead is not hot enough. Or both.
On the other hand, if your were getting wings, one or the other or both are too hot.
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Something else I discovered... smears.
If the sprue cutter is too loose and/or I am cutting too quick I can get smears... dragging lead across the top of the mold.
This adds weight to the pellet. It also can build up on top of the mold compounding the problem.
.22 pellets are hard to cast keeping weights consistent. It's a fine line between good and bad.
That was so obvious to me today when I was testing that FD-PCP.
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BTW... the brass washer on the screw that holds the cutter needs to be between the screw head and the cutter, not between the cutter and the mold. The washer is there for a reason... make sure it's there.
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I cast some 217RF19.4s today with my last two "muffins" of pure 99.9....
I culled more than half as under-weight skirts not fully formed...obviously a technique issue.
The alignment pins were cleaned and lubed and closing nicely. None of the pellets had the vertical line. I'm going to re-clean this mold with the toothbrush again anyway and see if I can do better.
I stole Avator's sorting concept and repurposed some old tins with the help of a razor blade (for the decal) and a Laser printer.
A couple questions...
Is this mold brass or aluminum?
Are you preheating the mold with it open? What temp? For how long?
How hot is your pot?
Is temp gauge at the top or the bottom?
Are you dipping or bottom pouring?
Skirts not filling out, in my experience, is from the lead cooling to fast... either the mold or the lead is not hot enough. Or both.
On the other hand, if your were getting wings, one or the other or both are too hot.
Thanks for coaching..
The mold is brass and I am resting it closed on the edge of the crucible while heating up and whilst gathering sprus
The temp gauge is 100cm and goes to within 1cm of the bottom of the crucible.
I am bottom pouting with the spru place within 1/4 to 1/8 inch of the spout.
My PID holds 296-300C but that can't be correct as the melting point is supposed to be 327C...
At about 286C lead still flows but a "bugger" solidifies on the end of the spout, at "300" shinny lead drips constantly from the spout and I cast at that.
If I had to guess, I have a 50 degree C "offset" that I should put into the PID which means I casting at about 350C.
Lead cooling too fast....I seam to fill out better the closer to the spout I hold the mold....earlier casts I was flowing almost 1/2" before entering the mold.
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This may help, I hope. I was casting before my accident, I have a 20# bottom pour setup. I kept the pour spout touching the sprue plate. I had very few pellets going back to the melter. It was in fact a sort pressure pour. Of course some adjustments were made on the fly , if the pot was full, I'd keep about 1/8th distance between the spout and the plate. As it emptied, I'd move the two closer together.
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BTW... the brass washer on the screw that holds the cutter needs to be between the screw head and the cutter, not between the cutter and the mold. The washer is there for a reason... make sure it's there.
Yessir, washer in place mold toothbrush scrubbed and air drying for tomorrow after work....
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I'm not one to tell someone what to do. I can only share what works for me...
350c is 662f. I dip from the top and run my pot at 700f with aluminum. I get bad pours if I go lower.
I preheat my mold open in the toaster oven at 140c. I put the mold in the oven when I turn on the pot pid so it gets a good preheat. (careful not to burn the wood handles)
Brass likes to be poured hotter than aluminum.
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I only use wax to lube and I only touch the wax on the hot mold at the sprue cutter screw and the 2 mold alignment pins.
When I clean the mold I use a .22 brass barrel cleaning brush to clean out the 2 mold alignment pin holes.
If my pellets are sticking I smoke the mold with a BIC lighter.
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Good tips I have heard similar on lube the pins etc. I use syntheic lube that I used on my bullet press ram. Somewhere I read to Qtip it on the mold pins and use the other end of the qtip to remove excess so that's how I do it. I did have success with the soap bar on the pins as well.
I will go back to oven pre-heating the mold (open will be new but makes sense). I had been smoking the pins by adding parafin as flux and letting the smoke rise up through the mold while preheating. I'll give the Bic lighter method a try.
Again the joy of this hobby is I can learn things from seniors, articles etc. and "adsorb what is usefull."
I will have to "calibrate" my thermocouple and try a set point of 370C/700F
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This may help, I hope. I was casting before my accident, I have a 20# bottom pour setup. I kept the pour spout touching the sprue plate. I had very few pellets going back to the melter. It was in fact a sort pressure pour. Of course some adjustments were made on the fly , if the pot was full, I'd keep about 1/8th distance between the spout and the plate. As it emptied, I'd move the two closer together.
I feel good I kinda got there intuitively. I will get snug up on that spout with the newly cleaned mold next run.
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I will use a Bic to give the pins a pre heat boost also, before starting a casting session, hotter pins help the lead flow into the skirts. Another trick would be let the first few cast sit in the mold a minute with it over the pot for a minute longer, to maintain outer mold temp, that lets a little more heat sink into the pins.
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Good tips James...
I've also seen videos and how to's where some casters leave the last pour in the mold until the next use. I haven't done this.... yet.
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I don't cast pellets, I cast 65 gr slugs.. I have a accurate mold and never had any stick.. I just took it from the box and put it in the toaster oven ..I heat the mold with it slightly open to 450 degrees. I cast at 770 f .. I also use synthetic 2 stroke oil for lubricating the mold sprue cutter.. I think you should bump up the temperature, which in turn, if you have a bottom pour, will help keep the spout temp. up also..
Leave the first pour in the mold for a bit, to bring it up to temp. better.. As for the pins graphite also work well..
Keep at it, and you will make some fine pellets!!!
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I've not had any problems with pellets or hollow points sticking to the pins after polishing the pins. I Polish them to the point where I have problems picking them up with my old man fingers. I use synthetic 2 stroke oil on the sprue cutter both top and bottom plus across the top of the mold careful to not get any in the mold cavity.
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I've also found the NOE HP molds to work essentially flawlessly out of the box without much preparation. I was really expecting to encounter some difficulties as a new caster but it has been a piece of cake with those molds. I have been casting .25 BBT hollow points (39 and 49 grain) for plinking with the GK1.
The drive bands are perfect for the chambers in the cylinder - held firmly in place when seated flush with the back of the chambers. Apparently some people have gotten jams when slugs are too small for the chambers and are able to slide around. I cast these at the mid to low 600's F and generally want to cast them as cool as possible for the snug fit.
The 49 grain is the exact length of the gk1 chambers for any high power application. The 39 grains seem perfect - getting good accuracy compared to others I've tried and the GK1 has no problem shooting these nice and fast. They also seem to fly stable at lower speeds - no keyholing.
What are pictured just a couple of test batches to check fit. I'm going to have to set aside time one morning this week to really crank out a bunch of these. I have a four cavity mold which helps.
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Oh yeah... I could only imagine casting pellets at double the weight/size than what I am casting would be easier.
P, I am surprise that you are getting such good results at the lower temp.
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Lead only starts to melt at 626°F. I don't know how you are able to cast in the mid 600s°F... Just saying. I like to cast as low in temp as possible, too. That's 735°F for me to have good consistent results. This because of the spout being extended from the bottom of the pot and the mold distance from that, which I do try and keep somewhat close to the spout. I start casting when the mold temp hits 350°F on the hot plate. I have the NOE temp gauge plugged into the mold to know that. Maybe I am doing something wrong here.
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I might be off on the temperature. There was actually a note included with the mold from NOE that said that temp should be kept close to 600 degrees for the aluminum molds. I was surprised to see that if I can find the slip of paper I'll post a photo
Maybe I should have said mid-600s. It got up to about 700, turned it down, when it was at 690 I turned it down a bit more and i was tossing my sprues back into the pot as i cast. Once I saw the temperature drop below 675 I didn't pay attention after that I just assumed it must be have cooled further because of the sprues
I'm not sorting them or weighing them or anything so I'm not sure how good the results are but I'm using a pressure pour ladle, and not dealing with thin skirts from pellets. I also get the mold nice and hot on the back of the furnace before casting for the first few casts i pour lots of extra lead on the sprue plate to heat it quickly (using the ladle, any excess that doesn't harden from flows back into the furnace). We
The reason I got the 25 caliber GK1 and not the .22 was because I've had good luck casting that size and already had some molds.
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I might be off on the temperature. There was actually a note included with the mold from NOE that said that temp should be kept close to 600 degrees for the aluminum molds. I was surprised to see that if I can find the slip of paper I'll post a photo
Maybe I should have said mid-600s. It got up to about 700, turned it down, when it was at 690 I turned it down a bit more and i was tossing my sprues back into the pot as i cast. Once I saw the temperature drop below 675 I didn't pay attention after that I just assumed it must be have cooled further because of the sprues
I'm not sorting them or weighing them or anything so I'm not sure how good the results are but I'm using a pressure pour ladle, and not dealing with thin skirts from pellets. I also get the mold nice and hot on the back of the furnace before casting for the first few casts i pour lots of extra lead on the sprue plate to heat it quickly (using the ladle, any excess that doesn't harden from flows back into the furnace). We
The reason I got the 25 caliber GK1 and not the .22 was because I've had good luck casting that size and already had some molds.
That I can see. I believe the NOE slip says to not exceed 600° on the mold due to possible warpping.
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I've had to replace the wood on one set of my mold handles. They burned out the inside of the wood and, like I said, I only preheat to 140 - 150 c. I preheat them in the PID controlled toaster oven with the wood handles sticking out and heat insulation plugging the gap.
I had some old school file handles. They have metal inserts to protect the wood from the metal on the handles.
My second set of handles are still good to go.... so far.
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I don't cast pellets, I cast 65 gr slugs.. I have a accurate mold and never had any stick.. I just took it from the box and put it in the toaster oven ..I heat the mold with it slightly open to 450 degrees. I cast at 770 f .. I also use synthetic 2 stroke oil for lubricating the mold sprue cutter.. I think you should bump up the temperature, which in turn, if you have a bottom pour, will help keep the spout temp. up also..
Leave the first pour in the mold for a bit, to bring it up to temp. better.. As for the pins graphite also work well..
Keep at it, and you will make some fine pellets!!!
I went and read the bottle, I use STP synthetic oil treatment, that was recommended for my former Lee Press ram lubricant..I still got 13oz of the 15oz jar left. At a Qtip dab per mold I think I have a lifetime supply. WOW that's 410C, not sure if my cleaned up loved in Lee 10# Pot will burn that hot, but I will cast at highest temp. I will try the pour in the mold trick as well. I use "graphite" to lubricate the spru...pencil lead the top of the mold and bottom of the plate...smooth as butter.
Last I am green with envy as my AM 62gr .303+ mold is still 5-6 weeks from delivery...lol
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The reason I got the 25 caliber GK1 and not the .22 was because I've had good luck casting that size and already had some molds.
As I go through this learning curve with the 217RF20 Mold, I look at the groups with (value priced) Apollo 18s and (premium $0.05) JSB 18s and think of buying a couple thou JSBs on the 4 for 3 from PA and not buying anymore .22 AG so I can cast .25 and larger slugs. I might try the 218RN25 in the pp800r and the Notos.....that might be the one reason I plenum and further modify the Notos as I think that slug would need more like a 25fpe+ push. If anyone has some 218RN25 slugs I could chrono and group through the Notos and the pp800r I'd be happy to workout a Paypal for shipping and the value of the pellets before buying another mold (PM me please).
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News flash....
We were out puttering around in the yard yesterday and I needed something out of Betty Lou's She Shed. Betty Lou said "I don't even know why I need a She Shed, I don't garden so it's just yard tool storage". I jokingly mentioned that it would make a great place to set up the casting corner and open up space in the Red Shed. She replied "Go for it",
This morning she asked if I was going to move stuff into it today. I told her I couldn't work in there in this heat. She suggested we go buy a 6000 btu window a/c unit for it. So off we went..
I stopped at the local discount joint and picked up a 6000 btu GE refurb unit for $137 out the door. (It's senior discount day) I now have an 8 x 10 refrigerator. ::) I also have a wall mount propane heater to mount on the wall and supply with a #20 propane tank for the cold weather months.
I spent the morning moving casting corner into the new Castin' Shack.
I love my wife.
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You know Bill, you should really merry that woman 😜. All my wife wants to do is take over more and more of the shooting shed and the garage.😡
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You know Bill, you should really merry that woman 😜. All my wife wants to do is take over more and more of the shooting shed and the garage.😡
It's a bonus that she also likes to hang out and shoot airguns with me.
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Casting Shack is located about 15 ft outside our bedroom window where our main wireless internet router is. I get perfect connection for web browsing and DTV streaming on the tablet.
Also located in the Casting Shack is the MKII AirMax Extreme compressor that I use for filling tanks. (MrodAir)
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News flash....
We were out puttering around in the yard yesterday and I needed something out of Betty Lou's She Shed. Betty Lou said "I don't even know why I need a She Shed, I don't garden so it's just yard tool storage". I jokingly mentioned that it would make a great place to set up the casting corner and open up space in the Red Shed. She replied "Go for it",
This morning she asked if I was going to move stuff into it today. I told her I couldn't work in there in this heat. She suggested we go buy a 6000 btu window a/c unit for it. So off we went..
I stopped at the local discount joint and picked up a 6000 btu GE refurb unit for $137 out the door. (It's senior discount day) I now have an 8 x 10 refrigerator. ::) I also have a wall mount propane heater to mount on the wall and supply with a #20 propane tank for the cold weather months.
I spent the morning moving casting corner into the new Castin' Shack.
I love my wife.
Keeper!
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Sho nuff...
I'll post some pics of the new casting shack tomorrow. I may even make my first run of pellets in there.
Betty Lou is planning to paint a sign for it on an old hand saw. I'm going to see if I can round up some of my gun related tin signs to hang inside. I have an old gun rack hung in there and I've hung a Crosman 66 BB gun on it. That will be my grab and go pester.
I don't expect any critters getting in. No spider webs.
It's a wood framed shed clad in aluminum with a solid tin roof. It's insulated and finished on the inside with 1/4 luan plywood. Outlets, light fixture and switch are inlet in the walls. No leaks. The door is metal with a lockset entry.
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As I go through this learning curve with the 217RF20 Mold, I look at the groups with (value priced) Apollo 18s and (premium $0.05) JSB 18s and think of buying a couple thou JSBs on the 4 for 3 from PA and not buying anymore .22 AG so I can cast .25 and larger slugs. I might try the 218RN25 in the pp800r and the Notos.....that might be the one reason I plenum and further modify the Notos as I think that slug would need more like a 25fpe+ push.
218RN25 is off the table. The H&N 21gr slugs that didn't group worth a darn were .2175 and fell out of the CARM mag. I slugged the pp800r and Notos and they were both .2190 to .2205
I ordered the MP Molds 35gr x 5.55mm 8 cavity This might get cast in Bismuth to keep the weight down. A positive reviewer had good results in the pp750 and other Artemis barrels....time will tell...should be $0.02/slug of lead in 40:1 so as cheap as CPHPs
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Snapped some pics of the Casting Cabin this morning. Things are coming up to temp for my first pour in there.
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... another one.
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First 50 ct test batch 217 20 RF Hunters is in the tumbler. I want to see if there are any changes due to cooler/dryer conditions. Sprues back in the pot and mold staying warm in the oven.
This bench is a little lower than the one in the Red Shed and it feels more comfortable pouring. That may result in longer casting sessions.
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You're a lucky dog, Bill. Nice setup for casting.
I always liked having my workbench sit jacent to the doorway, so I could have the pot and a fan very close to the doorway drawing out the nasty, but that's just how the workbench I have was already positioned. I am sure you have everything worked out.
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I am compelled to be completely honest how this went down. The Casting Shack did not come to me without some level of compromise.
Some of you may remember the screened in back deck that we closed in and made into our bar/hangout after losing the bar due to the sale of that part of the property.
Well, I had to relinquish all control over the approved goings on in that space. I'm just grateful that she enjoys camo and outdoor type decor such as hunting, fishing, airguns, cars and beer drinking as opposed to pink. 8)
But that's not to say that it would be unlikely that I would open that door to find a soap opera or a reality program on the flat screen. But that's ok too because that door goes both ways.
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Casting Cabin is shaping up quite nicely. I added a table so I could sit comfortably while sorting and weighing my cast pellets. I also put the OrcAir compact compressor in for filling the 2k fake 3622 "lego" gun seen hanging on the rack along with the PM 66 and the "Prvt. Stryker" (chopped Striker 1000s in a Webley VMX stock).
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Casting cabin is looking great!
I moved my bench to the edge of the garage by the door, more outside air/ventilation.
I boiled some water to test the PID Thermocouple...as suspected reading 60C when the water boiled.
Trying to find the Code menu to set an offset temp on the Rex C100. My 300 is actually 340C, which is what I was targeting.
I ran a practice run of 217RF20s that look much better. Looks like I can keep improving and sorting and have a cast for the Notos and pp800r
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Thanks..
Betty Lou said she don't have anything penciled in on the hunny do list for today so it looks like I'll be able to spend some time putting Casting Cabin into production. I do want to look around and see what I have for gun related signs to put a little bling on the walls.
I was able to tether the tablet through my cell phone and get connection good enough to browse stream. That will suffice until I can get a router installed and cable ran. It's not so much that I want to watch TV.. I just like to listen to things I've recorded to the DVR while I'm puttering around.
I managed to get all the gas/electric yard tools put away into the Red Shed before the rains came yesterday.... a real toad choker.
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First round of 100 217 20 RF dropped and awaiting sort/weigh.
Figured out the internet deal... I moved the black file cabinet over under the window a/c and the tablet hits the bedroom wireless good enough to browse and stream. I'll run it like that until it don't. ;)
It was 71 when I went in this morning and by the short time the pot and mold were up to operating temp it was 81. I put the a/c on low, set the thermostat to 7 and it cooled off to a very comfortable 71 within about an hour. Pretty sure I wouldn't be able to work in there as we move more into the HOT season without that a/c.
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The A/C will give you better results, being able to cast at the same ambient temperature every time.
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Already showing good results.
I've poured 2 runs of around 100 and even with sorting in batches between 19.30 - 19.50 and 19.51 - 19.71 I'm still passing around 70% or so.
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https://www.mpja.com/download/rex-c100.pdf
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I poured 4 batches of around 100 and culled around 60. Most of the keepers were in the 19.30 - 19.50 range. Once I got my stride that last 2 batches were quite consistent at 19.40 +- .05. I didn't tumble any of them today and I'm not even sure if I will. They are very smooth, shiny and slippery to pick up.
I can pour 100 +- before it gets cumbersome to reach the ladle down into the pot. That's when I add the sprues back to the pot and sort/weigh while it's coming back up to temp. I also put the mold back in the oven to keep it hot.
As long as they keep pouring as well as they are I'm going to continue building inventory of these before I swap into another mold. I would think a couple 1000 should be a good stock number.
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Casting cabin is looking great!
I moved my bench to the edge of the garage by the door, more outside air/ventilation.
I boiled some water to test the PID Thermocouple...as suspected reading 60C when the water boiled.
Trying to find the Code menu to set an offset temp on the Rex C100. My 300 is actually 340C, which is what I was targeting.
I ran a practice run of 217RF20s that look much better. Looks like I can keep improving and sorting and have a cast for the Notos and pp800r
Thank you for the link I set an offset of 40C, then set the PID to auto tune. Held 300-315C pretty consistent. Nice shiny smooth pours. Seam to be getting much better fill out, but now getting over-flash at the skirt ends. Still some keepers sorted 19.2 to 19.7. I am cleaning my other 217RF20 mold to see which one casts better
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Getting ready to go out and get things fired up. Betty Lou found my spare linksys router when she was cleaning in the utility room. I may have a look at a plan for routing the daisy chain. I think I'm going to need a 50' cat5. But for now... it seems to connect to the bedroom router if I locate the tablet near the window. Not sure how it will do as the weather changes... we'll see.
I also found that one side of one of the outlets is smashed/broken. Looks like someone ran something into it. I have another one to replace it with and a new cover.
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Getting ready to go out and get things fired up. Betty Lou found my spare linksys router when she was cleaning in the utility room. I may have a look at a plan for routing the daisy chain. I think I'm going to need a 50' cat5. But for now... it seems to connect to the bedroom router if I locate the tablet near the window. Not sure how it will do as the weather changes... we'll see.
I also found that one side of one of the outlets is smashed/broken. Looks like someone ran something into it. I have another one to replace it with and a new cover.
If I might suggest 50' of cat5 and 50' of small diameter elcheapo pvc (or actual conduit) and bury it 18" to 2' deep. It will never give you any problems and have a stable secure connection to the base router....IMHO you'll experience the same service as in the house...
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Yep.. I have enough 2" black abs to run it through between the buildings like I didn't the electric. I would fish it through that one but I don't think the electric will play nice with the signal if I do. It's only a 25 or 30' span between the 2 buildings. And I don't mow in that area so it will be safe from any damage and not have to go overhead.
I fired up the pot and cast the first hundred this morning. Pretty much the same results as yesterday. At this point I have a full tin of the 19.40 and about a 3/4 of the 19.60. I put the 19.40 in the tumbler and I'll do the same with the 19.60 once the tin is full.
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How common is tumbling projectiles? I asked about it about a year ago when I started casting and I got mixed responses.
The idea is to make them more uniform and get rid of any flashing? I believe this also increases the diameter slightly - there is some word for the effect… I have one mold that I wish could cast slightly larger diameter slugs I'm wondering if tumbling them might be a way to make that happen.
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I'm not sure how tumbling would increase the diameter. Logic would tell me that, if anything, it would decrease the diameter due to them bumping and rubbing against one another. I suppose a could measure so samples before and after.
For me, tumbling just makes them smoother and slicker.
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I stumbled across a batch of around 300 of the Hunters that must have been from when I was using the brass mold. I weighed and sorted them to within my current tolerances and culled about 50% of them. Back in the pot the rest of them go.
Unintended derp edit...
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I stumbled across a batch of around 300 of the Hunters that must have been from when I was using the brass mold. I weighed and sorted them to within my current tolerances and culled about 50% of them. Back in the pot the rest of them go.
Unintended derp edit...
Its funny how you get more and more picky as you progress along.
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I stumbled across a batch of around 300 of the Hunters that must have been from when I was using the brass mold. I weighed and sorted them to within my current tolerances and culled about 50% of them. Back in the pot the rest of them go.
Unintended derp edit...
Its funny how you get more and more picky as you progress along.
I think in this case it was more about what shoots and what don't. I just have better success at consistence with aluminum molds than brass.
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Yep.. I have enough 2" black abs to run it through between the buildings like I didn't the electric. I would fish it through that one but I don't think the electric will play nice with the signal if I do. It's only a 25 or 30' span between the 2 buildings. And I don't mow in that area so it will be safe from any damage and not have to go overhead.
I fired up the pot and cast the first hundred this morning. Pretty much the same results as yesterday. At this point I have a full tin of the 19.40 and about a 3/4 of the 19.60. I put the 19.40 in the tumbler and I'll do the same with the 19.60 once the tin is full.
Yes the electric will interfere if in the same pull. Glad you are going underground in conduit. I had a neighbor in our starter home community that had to have a backyard jacuzzi. Ran to the panel box with Romex laying on the ground...two months later the panel burned most of his garage but fortunately the FD put it out before it got to the house. Very nice setup PID crucible control, pre-heated mold and A/C regulated ambient temperature and humidity. Plus a cool place to watch the idiot box while sorting/QC casts. Kudos!
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The PID is more stable now. Still a little over-dampening, but we'll see what auto-tune settles on.
I cleaned and lubed my second 217RF20 mold. Apparently it is in better condition. It's a little tight but no vertical seams and the few over flashing and under-casts I know are my technique. The pseudo pressure pour at about 310-315C seams to fill out a perfect pellet. Still about half re-pots, but mostly on me. I did cast about ten 20.1-20.4 than had no apparent imperfections. Tracking says the MP Mold will arrive from across the pond this week (before the Accurate Mold custom). Looking at ordering the 220BT30 from NOE with the HP should drop around 27.5-28, which will be easier to push than the 35+ gr MP slugs, but time will tell....
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Yep.. I have enough 2" black abs to run it through between the buildings like I didn't the electric. I would fish it through that one but I don't think the electric will play nice with the signal if I do. It's only a 25 or 30' span between the 2 buildings. And I don't mow in that area so it will be safe from any damage and not have to go overhead.
I fired up the pot and cast the first hundred this morning. Pretty much the same results as yesterday. At this point I have a full tin of the 19.40 and about a 3/4 of the 19.60. I put the 19.40 in the tumbler and I'll do the same with the 19.60 once the tin is full.
I'm now struggling with the reasoning behind keeping electrical and Ethernet separate. Our ISP provider supplied us with the Plume WiFi pod. This creature plugs directly into a wall outlet. It provides the wifi and allows a wired connection. I'm not sure if I could get any closer to electrical than that?
I wonder how bad the signal would degrade if I ran outdoor cat6 through about 25'of the abs along with the electrical to the building.
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Poured a batch of 100 this morning between puttering in the Casting Cabin with the same basic results. I hung a few more signs and flags and put my 12v/110v mini fridge in there for cold drinks.
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I'm not sure how tumbling would increase the diameter. Logic would tell me that, if anything, it would decrease the diameter due to them bumping and rubbing against one another. I suppose a could measure so samples before and after.
For me, tumbling just makes them smoother and slicker.
That makes sense, thanks.
I had the same reaction you did - seems counterintuitive. When they tumble they gradually become more round which means widening and shortening. It might take a while to have a measurable effect though.
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I'm not sure how tumbling would increase the diameter. Logic would tell me that, if anything, it would decrease the diameter due to them bumping and rubbing against one another. I suppose a could measure so samples before and after.
For me, tumbling just makes them smoother and slicker.
That makes sense, thanks.
I had the same reaction you did - seems counterintuitive. When they tumble they gradually become more round which means widening and shortening. It might take a while to have a measurable effect though.
Yeah, I can see where the skirts may widen but I don't see how the heads would.. unless I'm just not getting MY head around it. I might need to do some exploring with the calipers. I'm not so sure I want to put that much time and effort into it if I'm getting good results downrange.
I mean at some point, if our time invested has value, we may be reducing the savings compared to buying commercially.
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Finally had both motivation and a decent day to do some casting. I don't have an indoor casting corner, so I have to opportunistically set up outside. Today I tried casting the BBT 27gr in 0.22 caliber (NOE 217-30-FN-BJ5). Took me a bit to settle in on the right temperature. Hey, I forget stuff after awhile! Out of practice - need to fix that. Ran the lead at 345C to 350C and cast a bunch. Haven't sorted them out yet. My electronic scale only reads to grains, not tenths of a grain. So I need to drag out my 40 YRO Redding reloading single beam scale. The Redding has no damping, so it takes a bit to settle out. Tomorrow I'll sort them. A random pick of 4 weighed 28.4 +/- 0.1 grain, which is somewhat encouraging.
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Pics in what did you receive thread, but I soaped the pins on my Accurate Molds 30-62A.
Pre-heated open mold at 400F
Threw the first two drop back in the pot.
Threw some beeswax in for dross and rested the mold over the pot for smoke (even though there are no pins)
The first pair had to be tapped to fall out.
Then the magic began perfect slugs drop right out with no tapping out of the mold and ZERO rejects.
Sadly I have purified my 40:1 or simply only have 99.9% left as these dropped at .302 and 63.6 to 64.0 very consistent.
I lowered the PID target to 325 and the auto tune seams to be holding tighter and warmer.
A few more runs on auto and I'll log the settings the bot selected and see if I can adjust for a mild overshoot and then dampen a hair (another later projecct).
Need to order some new 40:1 RotoMetals.
I will put all these back in the pot to try tomorrow in the MP 35gr 5.55mm which arrived today as well.
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I saved the heaviest 64gr from the Accurate 30-62A truncated cone slugs for the .303 Challenger. They were pure lead so they droppped at .302 and I assumed they wouldn't group so I only saved 10 and put the rest in the pot for MP35 slugs. The 3000psi fill I went with is too low and chrono was around 65-75fpe...BUT.....the sonofagun's where 8for8 on the 1" spoon at 15 yards once I corrected hold over. I may cast a "trial" batch to test 3800-4000psi starting fills. RotMetals 40:1 is on the way so tru 40"1 should drop at .303 and we should have a winner finally.
I will post more on the MP35grain in the casting thread......
Soaped pins.
With the extra spru handle I didn't preheat in over, just on the crubible.
Beeswax smoked
Potted the first cast
Then IIDMP 8 perfect slugs per cycle.
The picture is Left to Right 34.6 (no blemishes), .34.7, 34.8 and a huge pile of 34.9/35.0 then the rejects pile.
Rejected 3 @ 35.2 that probably are just fine, and everything 34.5-....eyeballing less than 15% rejects on my first run.
I will probably just tin these going forward and reject any blemishes as I load (less than 1.5% weight variance)
I am really hopeful the Notos can push these monsters they are super easy to cast
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Well... if their vote counted I'm pretty sure "Casting Cabin" would be renamed to "The Dog House".
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I know the
postman letter-carrier was cursing me, I found and 8x10 box in front of my garage door.....yup my 50 pounds of 40:1 from RotoMetals came in yesterday.
My theory was correct, they filled out at .3030 for the 63.5gr and .3037 for the 64.6gr. For reference the NSA 61.5s that stack are .3034-.3035.
I sorted in .2gr groups 63.5,63.7,63.9.64.1, 64.3 and 64.5
The yellow sweatshirt bin are the back to the pot sub 63.5 again eyeballing 10-15% rejects. The loose to the right are 64.7 that I'm going to shoot in the backyard range. Might try the 4,000psi tune and see how these group at .3037 diameter.
BTW Accurate is dead on spec as I stated 40:1 .302 +0.002/-0.000!
The calibration of the thermocouple seams to be helping and I am casting at 310-330C (still working on auto tune and parameters).
The "near pressure pour" distance on the downspout is also helping.
I'm really pleased with how quickly and cleanly this mold casts. Keeping my fingers crossed for testing/grouping.
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Well that last casting run was bigger than I expected. Cast over 550 22 cal BBT slugs. The mold comes with two sets of pins, but beats me what weight these should be. About 50 of them were wildly overweight because the screw holding in the hollow point pins backed out! They were weird looking things, kind of had snouts.
403 of them were centered around 28.3 grains. 21 were less than 28 gr, probably due to hesitated or cold pours.
wt. grains #
28.0 9
28.1. 32
28.2 93
28.3 171
28.4 139
28.5 22
They are not as well filled out (there's a few minor wrinkles) as I'd like, but this is a good start. They fit my 2240, although they will be arcing their way to the target. My PP700SA is a tight fit, but I can shoot them with a push stick to start them. Probably ought to size them for the PP700SA. Anyways, I'll be trying them out in my other stuff as well.
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Well that last casting run was bigger than I expected. Cast over 550 22 cal BBT slugs. The mold comes with two sets of pins, but beats me what weight these should be. About 50 of them were wildly overweight because the screw holding in the hollow point pins backed out! They were weird looking things, kind of had snouts.
403 of them were centered around 28.3 grains. 21 were less than 28 gr, probably due to hesitated or cold pours.
wt. grains #
28.0 9
28.1. 32
28.2 93
28.3 171
28.4 139
28.5 22
They are not as well filled out (there's a few minor wrinkles) as I'd like, but this is a good start. They fit my 2240, although they will be arcing their way to the target. My PP700SA is a tight fit, but I can shoot them with a push stick to start them. Probably ought to size them for the PP700SA. Anyways, I'll be trying them out in my other stuff as well.
Those are the weirdest looking noses I've ever seen. Might just be the way they look in the picture but it looks like you really need to adj the pins. They look like they're to low.
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Well that last casting run was bigger than I expected. Cast over 550 22 cal BBT slugs. The mold comes with two sets of pins, but beats me what weight these should be. About 50 of them were wildly overweight because the screw holding in the hollow point pins backed out! They were weird looking things, kind of had snouts.
403 of them were centered around 28.3 grains. 21 were less than 28 gr, probably due to hesitated or cold pours.
wt. grains #
28.0 9
28.1. 32
28.2 93
28.3 171
28.4 139
28.5 22
They are not as well filled out (there's a few minor wrinkles) as I'd like, but this is a good start. They fit my 2240, although they will be arcing their way to the target. My PP700SA is a tight fit, but I can shoot them with a push stick to start them. Probably ought to size them for the PP700SA. Anyways, I'll be trying them out in my other stuff as well.
Those are the weirdest looking noses I've ever seen. Might just be the way they look in the picture but it looks like you really need to adj the pins. They look like they're to low.
The screw that holds the pin in place had backed out while casting. I got about 50 where this slowly happened. I didn't notice it at first, but later, closing the mold got harder and harder. Then I looked at the mold and flipped it over to see the screw was about to fall off. Screwed it back in and got back to work. Those three little pigs will be going back in the pot! Just wanted to show a picture of the snouts, because, yeah, they were weird.
Here are some more normal looking ones. Sorry the focus is not as good as last time.
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Well that last casting run was bigger than I expected. Cast over 550 22 cal BBT slugs. The mold comes with two sets of pins, but beats me what weight these should be. About 50 of them were wildly overweight because the screw holding in the hollow point pins backed out! They were weird looking things, kind of had snouts.
403 of them were centered around 28.3 grains. 21 were less than 28 gr, probably due to hesitated or cold pours.
wt. grains #
28.0 9
28.1. 32
28.2 93
28.3 171
28.4 139
28.5 22
They are not as well filled out (there's a few minor wrinkles) as I'd like, but this is a good start. They fit my 2240, although they will be arcing their way to the target. My PP700SA is a tight fit, but I can shoot them with a push stick to start them. Probably ought to size them for the PP700SA. Anyways, I'll be trying them out in my other stuff as well.
Bruce if you have a Notos I'd be curious how they (your BBT slugs) group. I have the 35gr MP Molds monster slugs. Not sure how the 20fpe Notos is going to push them. The pp800r fed them fine, but they are just a tad too long for the mag so SST only
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Don't have a Notos yet. Been eyeing one for a while though! Although I shot a couple out of my 2240, a couple of days ago, last night the slugs got stuck in the barrel. Might be at the end of the cartridge though. Had to use a rod to get the (single) slugs out.
I use a small aluminum bar to seat the slug in my PP700SA, which is a weird thing to be doing with a cocked gun. It won't fire a projectile since the transfer block is not in place, but it could discharge air.
Today I will slug the barrel and see what I get. Dang slug is small and hard to hold while measuring. I probably need to do that under magnification and a lot more light, can't see what I'm doing.
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Don't have a Notos yet. Been eyeing one for a while though! Although I shot a couple out of my 2240, a couple of days ago, last night the slugs got stuck in the barrel. Might be at the end of the cartridge though. Had to use a rod to get the (single) slugs out.
I use a small aluminum bar to seat the slug in my PP700SA, which is a weird thing to be doing with a cocked gun. It won't fire a projectile since the transfer block is not in place, but it could discharge air.
Today I will slug the barrel and see what I get. Dang slug is small and hard to hold while measuring. I probably need to do that under magnification and a lot more light, can't see what I'm doing.
So Say we all. I'm 6-3 with guitar player sized hands .22 slugs are comical tiny, .177 pellets are slapstik frustrating...lol
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Okay more story line in search of the perfect .3035 cast slug.
Last night I put some steel wool on a .25" dowel and hand polished my Lee .303 sizer to .3034-.3036
I have about 2 mags of "grey light powder" test subjects (some dummy coated with the negative lead but no electricity on).
Tonight I put the new Wallyworld 8" cheapy fan just above the level of the top of the pot and cast up a batch of Accurate Molds 3062A (first picture).
I love this mold!
Remembered to turn on the Electro-Static and dusted them (with a sheet of lubricated aluminum foil over my cookie tray) - second photo.
Twenty minutes later I pulled beautiful jet black slugs out of the yard sale toaster over. They're still too hot to measure as coated, but they will get sized tomorrow (third photo). If I can get everything loaded up I can LGR test them for groups Thursday.
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Does the PC foul barrel?
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The pc does not come off even when shot into a target.. Tough stuff.. It does not leave lead or pc in the barrel..
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The pc does not come off even when shot into a target.. Tough stuff.. It does not leave lead or pc in the barrel..
Thank you.
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Okay more story line in search of the perfect .3035 cast slug.
Last night I put some steel wool on a .25" dowel and hand polished my Lee .303 sizer to .3034-.3036
I have about 2 mags of "grey light powder" test subjects (some dummy coated with the negative lead but no electricity on).
Tonight I put the new Wallyworld 8" cheapy fan just above the level of the top of the pot and cast up a batch of Accurate Molds 3062A (first picture).
I love this mold!
Remembered to turn on the Electro-Static and dusted them (with a sheet of lubricated aluminum foil over my cookie tray) - second photo.
Twenty minutes later I pulled beautiful jet black slugs out of the yard sale toaster over. They're still too hot to measure as coated, but they will get sized tomorrow (third photo). If I can get everything loaded up I can LGR test them for groups Thursday.
You can't see in the photo, but apparently with the spacing I had and gun angle I PCed the meplat down to upper driving band, but almost nothing on the lower band. The micrometer says they are .3047 and sized to .3034 to .3036.
The grouping was better at 3 touching slug width left to right, but all over the place for vertical (varied fps unregulated). I even shot a magazine of "sized down the barrel" .3047s which were the best group but still not MOS with the vertical variance. I got so frustrated I shot a group of NSA 46 and 61.5 which was opened up from my tuning testing so I (frustrated) put the Challenger away when my BY range fake rock lit up my last target. I'm going to more thoroughly coat another batch before I conceed to factory (NSA) ammo for this Challenger
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Found a batch of 90 or so AM 3062A poorly hand PCed. Hit them with the Harbor Freight Electrostatic liberal coat. They are a nice black complete coat (with shinny silver bases). They came out of the Goodwill EZBake in 20 minutes at .3050 and my "polished" Lee Sizer is .3037-.304 so I have 9 to test in the BY range before I size them all.
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Been a minute since I posted to this one...
So, Betty Lou's toaster oven crapped out and we got her a new one. Not being the type just to throw stuff away until it's proven useless, I took it to the shop to explore the possibilities of it becoming a bigger and better mold preheating oven.
Well, I discovered that there ain't much hope in that... it won't heat up past 180f. I could probably wire the elements direct to the PID controller but since I already have one I don't think it's worth the effort... for now. ;)
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Ok so, that option ruled out, I came up with another idea for a rainy day project.
The other mold oven has a couple issues.
The mold handles must stick out of the top of the door. This gap in the door left enough heat to escape to melt and deform the bezzle on the PID. It also created some issues with the PID to lose it's cookies from time to time and shut down.
Also, that PID don't have the option to set from C to F readout.
I have a spare that is not deformed and can be changed to read out in F.
I also have a hunk of 2400F insulation blanket left over from the wood stove install.
See where I'm going here?
I'll swap out the PID controller and replace the door with the heat blanket.
Who has more fun than me?