Newby on the block... well, to casting anyways.

[brewbear]

Maybe I should have gotten that wadcutter mold in two cavity instead...

I got one each just to be sure. You can always pour in just two cavities...

[Spacebus]

Maybe I should have gotten that wadcutter mold in two cavity instead...

I got one each just to be sure. You can always pour in just two cavities...

Does the thumb trick work with just pouring two cavs? I'm trying to find said NOE video, but hard to search for it.

[triggertreat]

Cast as cool as you can on pot temp without having spout sticking issues.  From my experience, you'll probably find this eliminates a lot of issues like wings and such.

I find it to be mold material dependent. My aluminum molds like a cooler melt, but the brass mold wants it HOT. I get more hairs with a cooler melt. However, I'm casting outside, so my experience may not be relevant.

But it is relevant as we all cast in different environments. Like I cast just outside my shed door with a fan at my back. So knowing how you do it may help in some way.

All good points.  My casting experience is only from casting in my shed with a fan drawing the ugly outside and me behind the fan so there is minimum wind hitting the pot.  I am a fair-weather caster mostly but do cast during the winter months as well.  I like getting all of my casting done before the heat hits.  I cast using a 20lb Lee pot that is controlled by a PID controller that I built.  I typically like casting at 735° while using some scrap wood as a makeshift enclosure around the pot.  This allows me to still get a good flow out of the exposed gravity spout.  I used to cast much hotter but that caused me more issues like shrinkage and fins/wings to form on the cast.  I suppose I could cast at 750° and could eliminate the enclosure but I think I get the best results at 735°.  Having the PID allows me to play around with different temperature to find, at least what I consider, the sweet spot for my setup.

My next casting upgrade will be a RCBS easy melt furnace.

IIRC, that one has a built-in PID controller.  That one was a little too rich for me when just getting started with everything else I wanted to get i.e., molds, lead, sizing equipment, etc.  I built my PID later on which cost around $100.  If my Lee pot goes bad, I still have a working PID controller.

[Spacebus]

Cast as cool as you can on pot temp without having spout sticking issues.  From my experience, you'll probably find this eliminates a lot of issues like wings and such.

I find it to be mold material dependent. My aluminum molds like a cooler melt, but the brass mold wants it HOT. I get more hairs with a cooler melt. However, I'm casting outside, so my experience may not be relevant.

But it is relevant as we all cast in different environments. Like I cast just outside my shed door with a fan at my back. So knowing how you do it may help in some way.

All good points.  My casting experience is only from casting in my shed with a fan drawing the ugly outside and me behind the fan so there is minimum wind hitting the pot.  I am a fair-weather caster mostly but do cast during the winter months as well.  I like getting all of my casting done before the heat hits.  I cast using a 20lb Lee pot that is controlled by a PID controller that I built.  I typically like casting at 735° while using some scrap wood as a makeshift enclosure around the pot.  This allows me to still get a good flow out of the exposed gravity spout.  I used to cast much hotter but that caused me more issues like shrinkage and fins/wings to form on the cast.  I suppose I could cast at 750° and could eliminate the enclosure but I think I get the best results at 735°.  Having the PID allows me to play around with different temperature to find, at least what I consider, the sweet spot for my setup.

My next casting upgrade will be a RCBS easy melt furnace.

IIRC, that one has a built-in PID controller.  That one was a little too rich for me when just getting started with everything else I wanted to get i.e., molds, lead, sizing equipment, etc.  I built my PID later on which cost around $100.  If my Lee pot goes bad, I still have a working PID controller.

It does have the PID controller and isnt that much more than the Lee 20 lb (not bottom pour).

[Back_Roads]

 Most likely Full Lead Tacos videos , here is a lost episode tips and tricks for casting hollowpoints, or pellets for that matter.
https://www.thereloadersnetwork.com/2019/09/13/hollow-point-bullet-casting-tips-and-tricks/

[avator]

As I said.. I can only cut and add the two cav brass mold. And as we know, brass mold like things hotter and the sprue is smaller from a 2 cav than from a 4 cav. So with things hotter the 2 cav sprue melt much quicker. With the 4 cav mold I collect the sprues in a separate pan than the pellets and add them when I take breaks.
I typically cast 100 - 200 then put them in the tumbler. The previous tumbler load comes out and gets inspected and culled. Then it's back to another pour. Rinse and repeat. I'll do this for an hour or so then take a longer break... check the GTA, run to the store, eat lunch or just shoot some.
Right now I'm just trying to refine my casting process and build an inventory. That mess with the cast iron skillet set me back a bit. I had to dump alot of pellets back in the pot and clean things up.
The title of this thread tells the story... I knew it was going to be a learning process. I've always been the kind of guy that wants to be told the basics then learn from my mistakes as I go.
Found the video....  It's Ken Weidner

[avator]

I was in error... he opens his mold with the sprue plate at the top. I have mine at the bottom. The handle gives me a bit more leverage.

[EdinGa]

I have my sprue cutter nearest to my thumb and with the 2 cav brass mold I can cut the sprue with my thumb and catch it in my hand to drop it back in the pot. I lay the mold sprue cutter down on the hot plate to heat up and it balances well for me.
I only have one set of handles and plan to get another. Once I have 2 molds with handles I'll come up with some kind of cover to make an oven.

By sprue cutter, do you mean some kind of mallet to strike the plate? I use a wooden mallet. I thought I saw you had some kind of soft blow hammer.

Yeah, I think if I'm going to continue casting I'm going to need to invest in some way to monitor temps. If for no other reason than to remove the guessing game.
I've complyely removed the cast iron skillet just to remove that from the equasion. I may invest in a brand new unseasoned one... or maybe just a flat iron. We'll see down the road.

I use an old circular saw blade on top of my hot plate.

That's a good idea!  My issue with the hotplate is keeping the mold flat with the weight of the handle causing it to tilt.  I improvise in various ways to remedy this.  I don't have a real good fix yet.

If you can find a tin coffee or large bean can, cut a window in it close enough to the open end to balance the mold handles on. Flip it upside down and sit it on top of the hotplate and insert the molds through the window. Presto! You now have a mini mold oven.

Ed, when using a hot plate with HP/pellet molds, do you rest the pins against the hot plate? Can you post a picture of your can oven?

I flip my HP molds so that the sprue plate is against the saw blade and that keep things level. I don't have a picture of mine but it's like this except my window is about an inch or so above the lip of the can. This gives a support point for the handles.

[avator]

I'm going to make a hood for my hot plate like that.. I'm going to bump it up a notch and put a temp gauge in it.

[avator]

As promised, a few pics.

[avator]

The vise on the pot....

This serves as a guide for sliding the mold back as I pour. It's also adjustable from side to side for future mold size changes. For now both my molds fit it's current adjustment.

The sprue plate...

This is what I meant about the plate being reversed. This is the position of the plate if an optional sprue plate handle is used. When the plate is opened it swings forward and out of the way for dropping pellets. I keep the plate just snug enough so it can't flop around.

Other things to note...

I can use my thumb to cut the sprue from my 2 cav brass mold. The 4 cav (as seen in the picture) is harder to cut so I use the small lead hammer also seen in the picture to tap it open.

In the picture of the pot you can see a yellow object to the right. The is a fiber glass coated dowel. The rubber boot adds weight. I position my handles on the mold so the head of the hinge bolts faces up when the mold is turned over to drop the pellets. If pellets don't drop I use this dowel to tap on the bolt head and release the pellets. I NEVER hit the mold with anything.

[avator]

Still to come.... the mold oven.

I think I've mentioned several times that I like repurposing... I was searching the property for a coffee can or something to use. I happened to look up in the barn and saw a small porcelain coated cook pot... some would call it a 'chamber pot'. This is a smaller one that I think it's just the right diameter to fit over the burner and saw blade.
I also spotted and old bbq grill cover that had a temp gauge in it that went to 700f.
Looks like I have my project for this morning.
Pics to follow.

[avator]

"Danger Will Robinson".

[avator]

I try to keep that between 350 and 375.

Heck, I could probably cook lunch in it. Frozen pot pies anyone?

[Nvreloader]

Bill
By any chance do you have a clamp on volt meter? 
Some of them will take a plug in temp probe, I know my Sears model does,
I just got a plug in long temp probe and that is what I use, I can check my molds and lead
all with the same item.


HtH's,
Don

[avator]

Bill
By any chance do you have a clamp on volt meter? 
Some of them will take a plug in temp probe, I know my Sears model does,
I just got a plug in long temp probe and that is what I use, I can check my molds and lead
all with the same item.


HtH's,
Don

Another good suggestion from the group...
When my BIL passed my Sister told me to come clean out his garage and take what I wanted. I brought an 6 x 12 enclosed v nose trailer full home. I'm still finding things in the many tool boxes and cabinets, I know I've seen 3 or 4 multi testers in that stuff... I'll have to go look.. one of them may even have the probe.   thanks Don.

[Spacebus]

I've been getting satisfactory results without a mold oven, but now I need to make one. I think my neighbor has loads of the old "Chock full of nuts" coffee cans.

[avator]

Tru dat DJ...
My reason was to eliminate any cause for problems. If something goes afoul I want to know instead of guessing.

[Spacebus]

Tru dat DJ...
My reason was to eliminate any cause for problems. If something goes afoul I want to know instead of guessing.

I think a mold oven will take me from satisfactory to satisfying. It is frustrating when I have to throw so many culls back into the pot because my mold got cold will refilling the melt, even with a hot plate.

[avator]

Tru dat DJ...
My reason was to eliminate any cause for problems. If something goes afoul I want to know instead of guessing.

I think a mold oven will take me from satisfactory to satisfying. It is frustrating when I have to throw so many culls back into the pot because my mold got cold will refilling the melt, even with a hot plate.

Yep, I want to know when my pot is ready and when my mold is ready. If I get bad results I can look elsewhere for the reason.
Plus, I can try different measured settings to see how outcome is affected.
Like I said before... show me how to do it and I'll make it my own.