GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Back Room => Topic started by: lizzie on April 30, 2021, 10:09:11 PM
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Good evening.
My name is Lizzie.
I am a tool freak.
:D
No matter what I am doing, whether it's cooking, or building things, I have a "thing" for good tools.
When I was young, I wasn't taught how to build things. In high school, shop class was typically for boys, and home ec was for girls.
My dad knew how to build things, but when he was young and we were growing up, he usually had two jobs and/or worked very long hours 5 or 6 days per week, to support a wife and four girls.
I ended up marrying a guy from south Louisiana, and anyone here who knows people from South Louisiana, knows that they build and make things down there....it's part of the culture and the way of life.
I was exposed to doing things from plumbing, to electrical work, to framing, to finish work over the years, and soon came to realize that tools are a vital part of making a job easier. The hubs was very protective of his tools, and didn't like me to use them, so I came to understand that I was going to have to buy my own. I started slowly acquiring household work/shop tools, starting with just the basic stuff, then graduated to power tools, then over the years, my tool collection came to actually be quite nice, and better than what the hubs had.
I also decided, back in around year 2000, that I was going to build my own garden shed, so I started digging post/ pier holes and setting 6x6 lumber into concrete, then went from the ground up, including raising the walls myself. I put a couple of windows in the shed, built a half-loft, and put a metal roof on, and the only hand that anyone besides myself had in the building process was that I asked the hubs to stand at ground level, and hand me the metal panels for finishing the roof.
So.....anyway...I have good tools....not necessarily always the very best, but certainly better than most, and they are invaluable to me in time and energy savings, and making the job go so much better than without.
I have a wide assortment of Kleins, including a vintage pair of dikes that I grab before any other pair of pliers. I usually buy Dewalt in cordless tools, and in some corded power tools as well, and before I buy essentially any tool, I ask around and try to find some reliable information on the products I have to choose from.
And all that just to say- I am currently doing a demolition of a small add-on, and I am trying to preserve everything that I can to re-use, because the cost of supplies right now is so insane. Because of that, I have to do one of my very least fave jobs....removing framing nails from 2x lumber. I was over there working today, and getting very frustrated with that job, because I was using one of my hammers to do the job. Well, I had one of my pry-bars out there, because that's what I had used to pry the lumber apart for the demo, then it occured to me that the pry-bar had a nail removal slot cut in the steel toward one end. I had never used that before, and decided to give it a shot, because, quite frankly, I was just about ready to toss all that lumber on a fire. LOL
Well, whaddayaknow.....it made EASY work of removing those framing nails! I felt like such an idiot for never having tried that before!
I have an assortment of pry-bars, and I used them fairly regularly for various tasks, but this one is what I consider just about the perfect size and usefulness. It's about 20 inches long, made by Vaughan, and called a Super Bar.
I highly recommend it if you have any need for a similar tool. I have had it for 10-15 years, and have been using it all this time for various things.
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Oh this so right up my alley!!!
I bet David will be along soon.
I also have a SUPERbar.
But I am VERY intrigued with older hand tools.
Anyone know the purpose of the "s" handle on these adjustable wrenchs?
More to come..... ;)
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Can anyone tell me what this is for?
*Hint*
It is automotive and has a 9/16 box end on the bottom.
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*Probably* shaped that way to use for a specific purpose, in a specific setting. Back in the day, wrenches were oftentimes made for one specific job, and not generic as they are now. That shape may possibly also assist with leverage.
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Can anyone tell me what this is for?
*Hint*
It is automotive and has a 9/16 box end on the bottom.
For setting a distributor.
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Oh Lizzie, you never cease to amaze me.
Yes, the handles were "shaped" that way for a specific purpose... I know what, just testing the waters here.
And YES... The second IS a distributor wrench.
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What can I say? I'm a tool freak! LOL
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I only have the plain and regular assortment of tools, although I once caught my wife casually laying out a couple of my hand tools during a garage sale and I freaked. Never sell tools. Ever. ::)
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I only have the plain and regular assortment of tools, although I once caught my wife casually laying out a couple of my hand tools during a garage sale and I freaked. Never sell tools. Ever. ::)
Yup!
At one time, it bothered me that the hubs was so protective of his tools. After buying and using them, I understood why that was the case, and nowadays, not only do I always take and use my own, I don't like other people using them. Loan tools, and it's likely that you will never see them again.
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I have more tools than I have tool box space that even with disregard to organization I cannot house them all. The main drawer on my main tool box when I was wrenching held quite the collection of sockets and ratchets. I probably have about any tool needed to get a job done properly some where in my storage unit, outside special tools that only serve once porpoise because engineers.
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Next... What is it's purpose?
Mine are out in the shop and this is a "file photo" from google (no peeky)
(https://www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/pict/164079984105_/Vintage-Craftsman-V-Starter-Manifold-Obstruction-Wrench.jpg)
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Next... What is it's purpose?
Mine are out in the shop and this is a "file photo" from google (no peeky)
(https://www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/pict/164079984105_/Vintage-Craftsman-V-Starter-Manifold-Obstruction-Wrench.jpg)
That must be the porpoise wrench. ;D
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Next... What is it's purpose?
Mine are out in the shop and this is a "file photo" from google (no peeky)
(https://www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/pict/164079984105_/Vintage-Craftsman-V-Starter-Manifold-Obstruction-Wrench.jpg)
That's a wrench used to reach the tranny to differential bolts on the top side of an Olds Toranado or Cadillac Eldorado front wheel drive from the mid 60s to mid 70s. I have 2 identical to it, 1 SAE and 1 metric.
I also have three tool boxes with one being 5 ft long and 3 ft deep and still have more tools than space to store them from 50 years of mechanic work.
Tools make you money when they save you time on a job. Never enough tools. If I had to buy every tool I have now in todays prices it would be well over $100,000 worth.
BD
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Next... What is it's purpose?
Mine are out in the shop and this is a "file photo" from google (no peeky)
(https://www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/pict/164079984105_/Vintage-Craftsman-V-Starter-Manifold-Obstruction-Wrench.jpg)
Also, if it is 13mm on one side, used for tightening the backside carburetor mounting stud nut on a volkswagon type 1 or 2.
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Next... What is it's purpose?
Mine are out in the shop and this is a "file photo" from google (no peeky)
(https://www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/pict/164079984105_/Vintage-Craftsman-V-Starter-Manifold-Obstruction-Wrench.jpg)
I use one for nuts and bolts in stupid places on heavy equipment, gotta love engineers.
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I only have the plain and regular assortment of tools, although I once caught my wife casually laying out a couple of my hand tools during a garage sale and I freaked. Never sell tools. Ever. ::)
Yup!
At one time, it bothered me that the hubs was so protective of his tools. After buying and using them, I understood why that was the case, and nowadays, not only do I always take and use my own, I don't like other people using them. Loan tools, and it's likely that you will never see them again.
Yes I will never loan a tool again after lending my Mitre saw to a family member. I loaned it to him for a flooring project. Months after he finished the floor it was still at his house and after a nasty phone conversation, he had his sister in law drop it back to me. the blade was destroyed and he had left it in a backyard shed. It looked like it had been left out in the weather for weeks. Needless to say, we have not spoken since I told him he owed me a new mitre saw. >:(
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Nail pulling I grew up with this device, the one I have is possibly 100 years old, as is the one the farm I work on has.
Must be a good tool they still make them ???
(https://images.thdstatic.com/productImages/053759fc-9674-4ddb-ae1b-50596121c9a3/svn/crescent-specialty-hand-tools-56-4f_145.jpg)
https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-56-Home-Tools-Pullers/dp/B00002N7SD/ref=asc_df_B00002N7SD/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309811990469&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=915833428141237955&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019113&hvtargid=pla-523770244270&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-56-Home-Tools-Pullers/dp/B00002N7SD/ref=asc_df_B00002N7SD/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309811990469&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=915833428141237955&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019113&hvtargid=pla-523770244270&psc=1)
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Nice, James! I was unfamiliar with that one, and I can't tell how it works. I will look around for other info on it. Thanks!
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I only have the plain and regular assortment of tools, although I once caught my wife casually laying out a couple of my hand tools during a garage sale and I freaked. Never sell tools. Ever. ::)
Yup!
At one time, it bothered me that the hubs was so protective of his tools. After buying and using them, I understood why that was the case, and nowadays, not only do I always take and use my own, I don't like other people using them. Loan tools, and it's likely that you will never see them again.
Yes I will never loan a tool again after lending my Mitre saw to a family member. I loaned it to him for a flooring project. Months after he finished the floor it was still at his house and after a nasty phone conversation, he had his sister in law drop it back to me. the blade was destroyed and he had left it in a backyard shed. It looked like it had been left out in the weather for weeks. Needless to say, we have not spoken since I told him he owed me a new mitre saw. >:(
Yes sir!
I suspect it has something to do with the fact that they didn't pay for or work for it. Most of us seem to be inclined to take care of the things we pay for. I know that I do.
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Does this help Lizzie?
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71wNHrqC8bL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
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Oh! Yes it does. Thank you Scott!
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I don't have the super bar of that size, but I have 3 of the little 8" wonder bar type.
An old Stanley " mini wonder bar 2 " , 2 of the Vaughan / Dasco examples, 2 of the 8" trim bars, 2 of the little 5.5" mini bars, and 2 of their new 5.5" mini prybar scraper combo's.
I quite like their $10 demo bar as well, and the WILDE handle pry bars are an excellent value ( especially when you get them at Walmart under the Hype tough brand )
I gotta tell ya, these little prybar scrapers have become one of my nee favorite tools and are one of the best $5 you'll spend.
(https://i.postimg.cc/NFrqKxS9/20210421-150810.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LgR07jH2)
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James,
I grew up on a small farm in the midwest. Dad had lots of barbed wire fences. That was the tool we used to pull fence staples out of the had split fence posts. Every spring there was fences to work on. I think every farmer in the neighborhood had one of those.
BobH
Nail pulling I grew up with this device, the one I have is possibly 100 years old, as is the one the farm I work on has.
Must be a good tool they still make them ???
(https://images.thdstatic.com/productImages/053759fc-9674-4ddb-ae1b-50596121c9a3/svn/crescent-specialty-hand-tools-56-4f_145.jpg)
https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-56-Home-Tools-Pullers/dp/B00002N7SD/ref=asc_df_B00002N7SD/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309811990469&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=915833428141237955&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019113&hvtargid=pla-523770244270&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-56-Home-Tools-Pullers/dp/B00002N7SD/ref=asc_df_B00002N7SD/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309811990469&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=915833428141237955&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019113&hvtargid=pla-523770244270&psc=1)
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Wow....David, I do believe you qualify for the tool superfreak class! Thanks! ;D
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Being in the demolition trade?
I have more cool tools then a lot of people I know!
Several sizes of the Super Bar and Wonder Bars. Generally referred to as Flat Bars.
Several sizes and shapes of Long Pry Bars. I call them 'Ole Yeller' since they are yellow.
Hammer drills, jack hammers, several types of grinders.
Chop saws, table saws, mitre saws, and several types of circular saws.
Several Impact tools from small to large.
BFH's, SFH's, MFH's.
Sawzalls corded and cordless.
Lasers for checking levels and lasers for measuring.
All kinds of mixers from paint to concrete.
Then tools I've made to do crazy jobs where no tool was ever invented.
I've got a lathe, drill press, arbor press, and metal bending devices.
Sanders and spray paint equipment.
Jeez! I should do an inventory sometime!
:o
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Jeez Jeff! You can fund your retirement! Lol
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In case anyone wonders?
A BFH is a Big Freaking Hammer.
;D
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In case anyone wonders?
A BFH is a Big Freaking Hammer.
;D
😆 LOL
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In case anyone wonders?
A BFH is a Big Freaking Hammer.
;D
I know mechanics with literally, drawers full of BFH’s. Keeps me busy.
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Can anyone tell me what this is for?
*Hint*
It is automotive and has a 9/16 box end on the bottom.
Distributor wrench for setting the timing on an older engine that still used a distributor.
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Lizzie, when my wife and I were dating, I gave her some ear rings and bag o cordless tools. I could have skipped the ear rings and she would have been just as happy. Now days I call her Homer as she spreads saw dust everywhere.
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Lizzie, when my wife and I were dating, I gave her some ear rings and bag o cordless tools. I could have skipped the ear rings and she would have been just as happy. Now days I call her Homer as she spreads saw dust everywhere.
LOL...that is GREAT!
;D
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I really like the two small ones for trim work because they don't damage the wood much.
Hunter
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I probably have at least one of each of those out in the big green toolbox! LOL
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I have a flat bar too, but I don't use it much.
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I really like my Roto-Zip!
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I have a flat bar too, but I don't use it much.
I have several different sizes, but the one I posted in the first post gets used most often. One of the things they are really great for is lifting corners of heavy furniture, so that you can place a "slide" under it to facilitate moving things.
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I have a garage that the tools share space with my Harley both are necessary the tools are for projects and work the Harley for sanity ;D ;D ;D
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HAHA LOL
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DAG-NABBITT!!!! I thought I would be the first one to post it!
This in mine, given to me NEW in 1995.
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Just one of the pegboard walls in my shop.
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Cool!...and so dang organized!
You know what I found today? (yep- found)...an old Rocket Hammer.
Talk about COOL!
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Just one of the pegboard walls in my shop.
I would look you dead in the eye while my index finger was touching the crescent wrench.
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Just one of the pegboard walls in my shop.
I would look you dead in the eye while my index finger was touching the crescent wrench.
Yes. We need a close up of that sign.
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Lizzie,
A Rocket Hammer. If it is a Stanley Rocket, made before Stanley shifted production to China then I have one amongst my more than several hammers. Not a bad hammer but not as good as an Eastwing and not nearly as good as a hickory handled Chaney.
The gratifying thing about good tools that are well looked after is that they end up costing nothing. The money saved by doing the many jobs yourself pays for them over and over again. You can even do paying jobs with them.
My workshop - not too clean -- not too tidy but productive.
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Just one of the pegboard walls in my shop.
I would look you dead in the eye while my index finger was touching the crescent wrench.
Yes. We need a close up of that sign.
Ha Ha Ha!
Love it!
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Just one of the pegboard walls in my shop.
I would look you dead in the eye while my index finger was touching the crescent wrench.
I almost had coffee come out my nose with that comment.
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Lizzie,
A Rocket Hammer. If it is a Stanley Rocket, made before Stanley shifted production to China then I have one amongst my more than several hammers. Not a bad hammer but not as good as an Eastwing and not nearly as good as a hickory handled Chaney.
The gratifying thing about good tools that are well looked after is that they end up costing nothing. The money saved by doing the many jobs yourself pays for them over and over again. You can even do paying jobs with them.
My workshop - not too clean -- not too tidy but productive.
You are SO right about that! This Rocket is the one I will link a picture of. I have Estwings, but never use them. For whatever reason, I tend to like my cheaper wood handle US made hammers from the 60s and 70s, when it comes to use.
About things paying for themselves, that is true in many cases....that is the same thing I tell people when they scoff at me for buying a couple of Yeti cups years ago (I still use them daily).
They paid for themselves within a couple of weeks, because I was on the road daily for my job then, and I paid change for refills, rather than stopping to buy drinks during the workday.
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"I tend to like my cheaper wood handle US made hammers from the 60s and 70s, when it comes to use."
+1
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Dad was a Carpenter by trade and he carried a Rocket.
I forgot all about that hammer until I saw your picture Lizzie!
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not as good as an Eastwing
That would be Estwing.
;)
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About tools paying for themselves over time that is very true. I have updated my oil-fired heating system and replaced the water heater. I have also updated both the kitchen and bathroom including replacing the tile floor and tub enclosure (all porcelain tile). I have also replaced the living room and dining room floors. The last major project to be completed was installing the variable speed inverter heat pump system with VFD fan coil air handler and 4" HEPA filter with UV lamps.
I also in the past year repainted the entire first and second floors of my home in between major projects. ::) ::) So much for being retired ;D ;D
If I did not have a garage full of HVAC and carpentry tools the wife and I could not have afforded all the work and equipment installations that I have done over the last few years.
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I like my GS 461 Rock Boss.
Need a hole through concrete block? No problemo!
(https://www.stihlusa.com/WebContent/Images/Product/1395/gs461.png?preset=Product.ProductDetails)
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I like my GS 461 Rock Boss.
Need a hole through concrete block? No problemo!
(https://www.stihlusa.com/WebContent/Images/Product/1395/gs461.png?preset=Product.ProductDetails)
SERIOUSLY? Through concrete? !!!
WOW
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I will give you a 10 grunt (arrrg, arrrg, arrrg) "Time the Tool Man Taylor" on the GS 461!!! :o
I have 1 tall roll around filled and could fill another one. All the usual suspects.
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If I did not have a garage full of HVAC and carpentry tools the wife and I could not have afforded all the work and equipment installations that I have done over the last few years.
Especially at today's prices!
It is insane out there for the time being....which is why I am doing this demo in a manner to preserve many of the materials.
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Just one of the pegboard walls in my shop.
I would look you dead in the eye while my index finger was touching the crescent wrench.
I actually have 2 of those signs! Momma bought them for me years back after the boys "borrowed" tools from me and I "found" them with the zero turn.... >:(
I bought them their own tools after that. 8)
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Rolling drawers, view from one side, great for small woodworking projects.
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Rolling drawers, view from one side, great for small woodworking projects.
Now, clamps is something that I really don't have enough of.
A year or two before hubs died, he bought me a Kreg set for Christmas (to build picture frames, because I was churning out a LOT of paintings back then), and I've never even used it.
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I will give you a 10 grunt (arrrg, arrrg, arrrg) "Tim the Tool Man Taylor" on the GS 461!!! :o
It sure makes cutting in doorways a LOT easier!
I can cut in a slot for a lintel, then get a nice clean cut for doors or windows.
8)
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I like my GS 461 Rock Boss.
Need a hole through concrete block? No problemo!
(https://www.stihlusa.com/WebContent/Images/Product/1395/gs461.png?preset=Product.ProductDetails)
They used one of those on a tip-up panel to cut in a door that had been forgotten on the build. I didn't get the chance to see it close up but I sure was amazed at the cut speed!
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It sure makes cutting in doors and such much easier then the one with a round diamond blade.
1st time I saw the Rock Boss they had a guide frame and cut in a truck door in no time!
8)
They even had a weight on top of their rig so the Guy just plunged it through the wall then held the throttle!
Work Smarter! Not Harder!
;D
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My Floor grinding equipment.
HEPA Vacs with pre-filtering units so no dust!
I've been from Connecticut to California with these.
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=7881)
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Jeff, we need to talk.
Let me know the next time you are traveling west. I have a Plant to show you and get a quote.
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I can make the trip anytime to look at a potential job site.
;)
Have Tools, Will travel!
;D
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Hey, will that GS461 Rock Boss cut sandstone?
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Hey, will that GS461 Rock Boss cut sandstone?
Like a Hot knife through butter!
SandStone is way easier to cut then concrete.
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Another tool freak here all ways have been.
When other kids where buying toys I was buying tools. Now retired I have more tools for more trades than carter has pills.
I am also a member of the Rocket hammer club. Didn't think anyone else even knew about them. I only have one but it is my favorite.
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Very cool Tony!
Mine is not in as good a shape as your is, but I just need to get it cleaned up a bit. The pic I posted was one I found online, because I didn't want to go get it out of my truck at 0200 and take my own photos, but a little elbow grease will have it looking pretty good. I am looking forward to using it!
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Does it make me a bad person if I threw mine away a few years back? :o
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I really like the two small ones for trim work because they don't damage the wood much.
Hunter
I gotta get me another cat's paw, I misplaced my last one somewhere along the line.
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Lizzie,
A Rocket Hammer. If it is a Stanley Rocket, made before Stanley shifted production to China then I have one amongst my more than several hammers. Not a bad hammer but not as good as an Eastwing and not nearly as good as a hickory handled Chaney.
The gratifying thing about good tools that are well looked after is that they end up costing nothing. The money saved by doing the many jobs yourself pays for them over and over again. You can even do paying jobs with them.
My workshop - not too clean -- not too tidy but productive.
I've been looking to get a Chaney, but their patented hammers always command a premium.
My favorite is the Vaughan 9 series RIP claw.
The standard Vaughan 999 is excellent, but I also quite like the 10oz #9 " little pro " and the " hammertooth " version of the 999 made for Sears/ Craftsman.
(https://i.postimg.cc/7PmftVZk/20210502-160726.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rzRVK54n)
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Anyone else got a thing for channellock?
(https://i.postimg.cc/FHstWyz2/20210502-162543.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZCgD0yrc)
I think I do, this is just what I could grab quickly.
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How about one of these? I like things that work.
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Next... What is it's purpose?
Mine are out in the shop and this is a "file photo" from google (no peeky)
(https://www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/pict/164079984105_/Vintage-Craftsman-V-Starter-Manifold-Obstruction-Wrench.jpg)
That's a wrench used to reach the tranny to differential bolts on the top side of an Olds Toranado or Cadillac Eldorado front wheel drive from the mid 60s to mid 70s. I have 2 identical to it, 1 SAE and 1 metric.
I also have three tool boxes with one being 5 ft long and 3 ft deep and still have more tools than space to store them from 50 years of mechanic work.
Tools make you money when they save you time on a job. Never enough tools. If I had to buy every tool I have now in todays prices it would be well over $100,000 worth.
BD
Actually... my two are MUCH older than that. ;)
Long before USA dabbled in the metric system.
They are called a "Manifold Wrench" and came from my Grand Father, think 1930's.
They were for the exhaust manifold bolts on a flat head Ford engine.
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Anyone else got a thing for channellock?
(https://i.postimg.cc/FHstWyz2/20210502-162543.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZCgD0yrc)
I think I do, this is just what I could grab quickly.
actually I DO like the brand, own several different tools of theirs...a couple of pairs of channel locks, a pair of regular pliers and a diagonal cutter, and there's a couple more that I am forgetting at the moment. I think that for the money, they are a really good value, and I am always happy to see that name-brand on an item I am looking for.
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Anyone else got a thing for channellock?
I do... It is amazing how the name "Channel Lock" refers to arc joint pliers in most peoples mind.
Kinda like Kleenex = tissue.
I have several Channel Lock brand tools. Arc Joints, Parrot jaws, dikes (side cuts), and needle nose.
But mine are so old their handles have turned a green tint instead of bright blue. ;)
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Next... What is it's purpose?
Mine are out in the shop and this is a "file photo" from google (no peeky)
(https://www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/pict/164079984105_/Vintage-Craftsman-V-Starter-Manifold-Obstruction-Wrench.jpg)
That's a wrench used to reach the tranny to differential bolts on the top side of an Olds Toranado or Cadillac Eldorado front wheel drive from the mid 60s to mid 70s. I have 2 identical to it, 1 SAE and 1 metric.
I also have three tool boxes with one being 5 ft long and 3 ft deep and still have more tools than space to store them from 50 years of mechanic work.
Tools make you money when they save you time on a job. Never enough tools. If I had to buy every tool I have now in todays prices it would be well over $100,000 worth.
BD
Actually... my two are MUCH older than that. ;)
Long before USA dabbled in the metric system.
They are called a "Manifold Wrench" and came from my Grand Father, think 1930's.
They were for the exhaust manifold bolts on a flat head Ford engine.
It looks like it would double as a boomerang, HD sir ;D
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My Floor grinding equipment.
HEPA Vacs with pre-filtering units so no dust!
I've been from Connecticut to California with these.
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=7881)
P sir, you could go into a liposuction business with your array of sucking equipment ;D
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Can anyone tell me what this is for?
*Hint*
It is automotive and has a 9/16 box end on the bottom.
I've got this one..It's a distributor wrench. To set ignition timing we used to have to get access to the distributor clamp bolt that was in between the fire wall and the block on most GM V8's. A lot of the Ford's were in the front and not as much of a hassle.
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Anyone else got a thing for channellock?
I do... It is amazing how the name "Channel Lock" refers to arc joint pliers in most peoples mind.
Kinda like Kleenex = tissue.
I have several Channel Lock brand tools. Arc Joints, Parrot jaws, dikes (side cuts), and needle nose.
But mine are so old their handles have turned a green tint instead of bright blue. ;)
They make an excellent pair of Dykes for sure.
I have tried an older pair of 338 though and hated them, the linesman style handles just didn't provide the same leverage as the smaller 337.
The standard 337 is / was excellent , but the newer E-337 is even better.
The little E-336 is one of the best 6" dykes I've ever used, that repositioned pivot on the " extreme leverage " or E series truly is great.
I love their 357 flush cut nippers too, a very stout tool.
Those older 338 and their GL series pliers are the only tools actually made by them that I have tried and didn't like.
I won't try any imported tools with their name on it, nor will I try those ugly new futuristic things they came out with a year or two ago.
I can't stand the way they look, the features don't interest me, and I've heard they're not actually very good.
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Anyone else got a thing for channellock?
(https://i.postimg.cc/FHstWyz2/20210502-162543.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZCgD0yrc)
I think I do, this is just what I could grab quickly.
actually I DO like the brand, own several different tools of theirs...a couple of pairs of channel locks, a pair of regular pliers and a diagonal cutter, and there's a couple more that I am forgetting at the moment. I think that for the money, they are a really good value, and I am always happy to see that name-brand on an item I am looking for.
I am very happy to say that in this picture the 4th pair down on the right is one of the first pairs of "Channellock " pliers made by Champion De'arment who would later change their name to that of the patented tool they were so well known for.
With a false patent date of 1933 on them they were made before the patent was actually granted in 1934 making them pretty early.
I do not know how long my grandfather owned them as they may have been a later flea market score, but they have seen a lot of use over the years and continue to serve me well.
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Thank you, David! Great information!
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Next... What is it's purpose?
Mine are out in the shop and this is a "file photo" from google (no peeky)
(https://www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/pict/164079984105_/Vintage-Craftsman-V-Starter-Manifold-Obstruction-Wrench.jpg)
That's a wrench used to reach the tranny to differential bolts on the top side of an Olds Toranado or Cadillac Eldorado front wheel drive from the mid 60s to mid 70s. I have 2 identical to it, 1 SAE and 1 metric.
I also have three tool boxes with one being 5 ft long and 3 ft deep and still have more tools than space to store them from 50 years of mechanic work.
Tools make you money when they save you time on a job. Never enough tools. If I had to buy every tool I have now in todays prices it would be well over $100,000 worth.
BD
Actually... my two are MUCH older than that. ;)
Long before USA dabbled in the metric system.
They are called a "Manifold Wrench" and came from my Grand Father, think 1930's.
They were for the exhaust manifold bolts on a flat head Ford engine.
My SAE wrench came first before the metric craze hit the domestic auto scene. There were two bolts on those front wheel drive trannies that you could not see the bolts and had to go by feel to get to and without the curved wrench you could not even get to them at all. The metrics came later when foreign cars became more prevalent in front wheel drive. Actually have several in multiple sizes now also.
I have maybe 40,000 invested in all my tools that were bought between 50 and 30 years ago since I have had to buy very few in the last 20 years. But to replace the socket and wrench sets and all the special tools I have in todays dollars would be well over 100,000 dollars. I have impact socket sets that I paid 90 bucks for that are now 600 plus for the same sets. All have lifetime replacement guarantees and I do track down tool trucks to get broken/worn out tools replaced as needed.
BD
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Well that is a bonus that the warranty is honoured.
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Dead right. It is Estwing and not Eastwing. Lack of ATD there on my part. Maybe this was the first time I actually read the label.
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Dead right. It is Estwing and not Eastwing. Lack of ATD there on my part. Maybe this was the first time I actually read the label.
Easy mistake to make due to pronunciation. In this part of the country, it's pronounced with the long e, as in East.
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I've had Estwings but gave them away to the kids, I am a Vaughn hammer guy. I got my first Estwing from a dear friend, my wrist hurt so bad by the end of the day it was throbbing! I borrowed a Vaughn 20oz from another guy on the build and gave him a 20 by the end of the day and have kept it on my carpenters belt through hundreds of projects, several builds, 2 hurricane sheathings and a She-Shed over the past 30 years. Still going strong.
My baby... a little worse for the wear but still strong.
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Most all tool manufacturers have a lifetime warranty on hand tools like sockets, wrenches, pliers, ratchets, breaker bars, etc. I own lots of Matco, Mac, Snap on, SK, Craftsman hand tools and all have lifetime warranty for wear and breakage. Its just a matter of knowing the local tool trucks routes or stores to get them replaced.
Craftsman are now sold and warrantied at Ace hardware, Lowes, home depot or most any hardware or home improvement stores since Sears has gone under.
I have hand tools that are over 50 years old and have had no issue getting them replaced when worn out or broken. You do not even have to be the original purchaser, I have found ratchets and pliers on the side of roads that were rusted beyond salvage and get them replaced with new ones no questions asked..
BD
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Most all tool manufacturers have a lifetime warranty on hand tools like sockets, wrenches, pliers, ratchets, breaker bars, etc. I own lots of Matco, Mac, Snap on, SK, Craftsman hand tools and all have lifetime warranty for wear and breakage. Its just a matter of knowing the local tool trucks routes or stores to get them replaced.
Craftsman are now sold and warrantied at Ace hardware, Lowes, home depot or most any hardware or home improvement stores since Sears has gone under.
I have hand tools that are over 50 years old and have had no issue getting them replaced when worn out or broken. You do not even have to be the original purchaser, I have found ratchets and pliers on the side of roads that were rusted beyond salvage and get them replaced with new ones no questions asked..
BD
I think too many people taking advantage of the famous warranty Sears had is part of what sent them under.
My dad has found tools on the side of the road that were obviously broken from falling off a truck and being ran over and warrantied them, that's not something I'd personally do.
If I found a perfectly good tool that eventually broke on me under normal use that's a different story.
If any of my American made Craftsman tools break I will not be exchanging them under warranty, I'd much rather have a broken American made tool than brand new Chinese replacement.
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I equate time to money.
Unless it's a high dollar tool? It's faster and more cost effective to just buy a new one.
I also expect any tool to pine for the fjords at some point.
Plus there is a tax exempt incentive at times to just toss them aside.
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I completely forgot to post one of my very favorite tools!
I keep one of these in the desk drawer (living room area), one in the detached laundry room, and one in the man cave/ shop.
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Hmm I have a good collection of Craftsman tools that bought the farm under what I call normal use like snapping them with a cheater tube, never bothered to get them replaced as they did not have the same quality as the tools I broke. Never really bought into Snap-On etc. but did acquire some as they stopped by the shops I have worked for weekly and then the added service was a +, and I found Snap Off tools to be thinner and made to fit where the sun don't shine quite well ;)
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Then there are the days a good solid rock works just fine ;D
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Then there are the days a good solid rock works just fine ;D
Well, it seems to have worked back in the Old old old old old days. :D
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Then there are the days a good solid rock works just fine ;D
My wife is good for using a rock. When we were painting the house I noticed that the top of the paint cans were dented in. Found out then that she was hammering down the lids with a rock. Instead of tapping around the rim to seal it she's banging on the center of the lid with a rock. 😲😣
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As I stated I have not bought a new tool from the tool trucks in over 30 years since I had already bought most all the hand tools and specialty tools I needed to do my work on the vehicles I was working on at the time. I agree the newer tools from all manufacturers are not what they used to be but then what is these day. Quality is a thing of the past for most items we consume in our lives.
For those that do not believe on using the lifetime warranties on hand tools and such I wonder if you also do not use the warranties on new cars or appliances and any other item that has a warranty included with the sale. I am not well off enough to just throw a broken tool out and have to buy a new one when I paid for it the first time with the lifetime warranty included in the sale. When you use tools every day to make your living for 50 years they wear out and since I did not make the warranty policy on the tools but paid my hard earned money to buy it your darned right I will expect the warranty to be honored for life if that's what is stated. To each his own but the stagnant wages paid in the dealerships for line techs is just plain disgraceful IMO.
Todays cars are far more difficult to diagnose and repair yet the going flat rate of pay has not changed in more than 40 years by more than a few dollars per hour. Its the driving reason there are no qualified techs in dealer ships today that are capable of correctly fixing the new cars right the first time. You get what you pay for and if you do not pay a tech what he's worth you will not get quality work plain and simple. Its why I got out of dealerships 20 plus year's ago due to lack of commensurate pay for my knowledge of the current vehicles I was repairing. I was a master certified tech getting paid flunky wages.
BD
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Trailbuilding and prescribed fire controlled burns. It will dig any smallish tree in no time, I can pull a 2 inch caliper *heavily* rooted wild tree easily in a few mins.
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I prefer not to hack and wack as much as possible when it comes to yanking small trees up. I use a pullerbear tool to get the privet up without tearing up the fence. I use a backhoe on the bigger stuff. They will even weld your name on the tool for free.
(https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Ftse4.mm.bing.net%2Fth%3Fid%3DOIP.5exXksqw-KNG6spExm0RTABPEs%26pid%3DApi&f=1) https://www.pullerbear.com/ (https://www.pullerbear.com/)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwqol2UP5_Y (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwqol2UP5_Y)
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I prefer not to hack and wack as much as possible when it comes to yanking small trees up. I use a pullerbear tool to get the privet up without tearing up the fence. I use a backhoe on the bigger stuff. They will even weld your name on the tool for free.
(https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Ftse4.mm.bing.net%2Fth%3Fid%3DOIP.5exXksqw-KNG6spExm0RTABPEs%26pid%3DApi&f=1) https://www.pullerbear.com/ (https://www.pullerbear.com/)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwqol2UP5_Y (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwqol2UP5_Y)
I love those things so much, they aren't versatile enough for the type of clearing I do most often, because I have to hike in, but they're great. I also love yanking big stuff with a brush puller whenever I can, it's so satisfying.
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I completely forgot to post one of my very favorite tools!
I keep one of these in the desk drawer (living room area), one in the detached laundry room, and one in the man cave/ shop.
Lizzie, Klien makes 3 different models of the 11-in-1. One with Torx bits (32500), one with square drive (32505) and the HVAC model with Schrader core tool (32527) as well as many replacement bits. Makes for a very nice EDC!
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I completely forgot to post one of my very favorite tools!
I keep one of these in the desk drawer (living room area), one in the detached laundry room, and one in the man cave/ shop.
Lizzie, Klien makes 3 different models of the 11-in-1. One with Torx bits (32500), one with square drive (32505) and the HVAC model with Schrader core tool (32527) as well as many replacement bits. Makes for a very nice EDC!
The ones I have are just the general purpose tools with an assortment of bits (phillips, straight, etc), because that's what I normally use. I have plenty of "specialty" bits for whatever driver I am using in a specific job.
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Channel lock pliers. I assume that is a brand name for all the blue handled pliers; the name being derived from the slip joint type pliers. We call them water pump pliers here in the south pacific.
Just another piece of useless information for the Americans.
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Channel lock pliers. I assume that is a brand name for all the blue handled pliers; the name being derived from the slip joint type pliers. We call them water pump pliers here in the south pacific.
Just another piece of useless information for the Americans.
A lot of people here in the states also call groove joint pliers " water pump pliers ".
Btw slip joints and groove joint pliers are two different things.
(https://i.postimg.cc/TPZJZqc3/20210505-172903.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rdN444bB)
On the left you have the slipjoints, and tongue & groove on the right.
Channellock calls them " Groove joint pliers ", but tongue & groove pliers which other manufacturers call them is a more literal explanation.
I really like WILDE pliers as well, but for their smaller pairs they use a less than ideal multi position slipjoint.
It's just not as adjustable as a groove joint with far more positions available.
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Channel lock pliers. I assume that is a brand name for all the blue handled pliers; the name being derived from the slip joint type pliers. We call them water pump pliers here in the south pacific.
Just another piece of useless information for the Americans.
I don't find it useless at all....in fact, I like to learn the differences in how we all view and relate to our immediate environments in different parts of the globe.
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Heck just a few counties away in WI we call farm implements different common names.
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There are several newer style of what one could classify in the adjustable pliers as a slip joint or channel joint. I'll just link the 3 types I own the 3rd variant linked and while flexible have a grip to them that is just plane nasty for the little input effort. I have used all three but never got around to buying the pliers wrench style which I like alot more than just a adjustable wrench. When I was turning wrenches I just used the proper sized wrench and if I went for pliers that part was going to be replaced anyways. When you work on a car most of the time people dont care if you mar a fastener but do that on their powersports equipment and it's the end of the world. I had to replace a rusty bolt on a polaris ranger on the opposite end I was working on 3 months after the guy took it home. But the bolts I did touch not a hint of rust on them because I bought the best quality tools I could not afford.
https://www.amazon.com/KNIPEX-Tools-Small-Pliers-Wrench/dp/B01AY0JXPS/ref=asc_df_B01AY0JXPS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309802506143&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7633075820892465218&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9014996&hvtargid=pla-493705539778&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/KNIPEX-Tools-Small-Pliers-Wrench/dp/B01AY0JXPS/ref=asc_df_B01AY0JXPS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309802506143&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7633075820892465218&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9014996&hvtargid=pla-493705539778&psc=1)
https://www.lowes.com/pd/KNIPEX-Alligator-Water-Pump-7-25-in-V-Jaw-Pliers/1000341335?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-elc-_-google-_-pla-_-106-_-soselectricalaccessories-_-1000341335-_-0&placeholder=null&ds_rl=1286981&ds_a_cid=112741100&gclid=CjwKCAjwhMmEBhBwEiwAXwFoEay46MRimxFOHUHmhLqjW6hkNuqz5_gy5TBeMKxBofoCj7Inq880IxoCeeIQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds (https://www.lowes.com/pd/KNIPEX-Alligator-Water-Pump-7-25-in-V-Jaw-Pliers/1000341335?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-elc-_-google-_-pla-_-106-_-soselectricalaccessories-_-1000341335-_-0&placeholder=null&ds_rl=1286981&ds_a_cid=112741100&gclid=CjwKCAjwhMmEBhBwEiwAXwFoEay46MRimxFOHUHmhLqjW6hkNuqz5_gy5TBeMKxBofoCj7Inq880IxoCeeIQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds)
https://www.lowes.com/pd/KNIPEX-Cobra-Water-Pump-10-in-V-Jaw-Pliers/5000886683?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-elc-_-google-_-lia-_-106-_-electricaltoolsandtesters-_-5000886683-_-0&placeholder=null&ds_rl=1286981&ds_a_cid=112741100&gclid=CjwKCAjwhMmEBhBwEiwAXwFoEdWJmzB2BmSaWLkoJyHOSdj78fKfHJjeDvo2OrESOb6kUj1h54ojKxoCydUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds (https://www.lowes.com/pd/KNIPEX-Cobra-Water-Pump-10-in-V-Jaw-Pliers/5000886683?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-elc-_-google-_-lia-_-106-_-electricaltoolsandtesters-_-5000886683-_-0&placeholder=null&ds_rl=1286981&ds_a_cid=112741100&gclid=CjwKCAjwhMmEBhBwEiwAXwFoEdWJmzB2BmSaWLkoJyHOSdj78fKfHJjeDvo2OrESOb6kUj1h54ojKxoCydUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds)
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I have knipex pliers that were bought back in the late 80s that are still in perfect working order and much prefer them over channel lock brands because the knipex are hinged so that the more force applied to the fastener the tighter they get so slippage is very uncommon if they are positioned correctly to start with. I also have knipex side cutters and straight cutters that will cut coins or small screw and bolts in half with ease and never knick or dull the cutting edges. Best pliers made IMO.
BD
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I have knipex pliers that were bought back in the late 80s that are still in perfect working order and much prefer them over channel lock brands because the knipex are hinged so that the more force applied to the fastener the tighter they get so slippage is very uncommon if they are positioned correctly to start with. I also have knipex side cutters and straight cutters that will cut coins or small screw and bolts in half with ease and never knick or dull the cutting edges. Best pliers made IMO.
BD
I can say the same for my Channellock dykes and cutters, especially those with the recent XLT design which has relocated the pivot forward for added cutting power.
I've heard nothing but good things and I'm sure they're a great tool, but because they often cost 2x as much in many cases I am just not interested in trying anything from Knipex.
At least not until Channellock starts to let me down.
Their 8" mini bolt cutters are probably the only thing I'd buy from them because there is no American made option, or really any other option I know of that's not made in Taiwan or China.
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I have knipex pliers that were bought back in the late 80s that are still in perfect working order and much prefer them over channel lock brands because the knipex are hinged so that the more force applied to the fastener the tighter they get so slippage is very uncommon if they are positioned correctly to start with. I also have knipex side cutters and straight cutters that will cut coins or small screw and bolts in half with ease and never knick or dull the cutting edges. Best pliers made IMO.
BD
I can say the same for my Channellock dykes and cutters, especially those with the recent XLT design which has relocated the pivot forward for added cutting power.
I've heard nothing but good things and I'm sure they're a great tool, but because they often cost 2x as much in many cases I am just not interested in trying anything from Knipex.
At least not until Channellock starts to let me down.
Their 8" mini bolt cutters are probably the only thing I'd buy from them because there is no American made option, or really any other option I know of that's not made in Taiwan or China.
I like the look of the 6.5" ones too! My birthdays coming up in case anybody is feeling generous... ;)
(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/411tpnDBKrL._AC_.jpg)
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I was unfamiliar with that line of tool. Cool! Something new to check out!
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Those Knipex pliers look to be very good. I will never be able to visit America. I could afford the airfare but I would not be able to cope with the excess baggage fee on the way home. All the tools and airguns that you have available over there. And a genuine cowboy hat.
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Clearly we all like good tools but there is a place for cheap tools. Tools just fit for the job and that is all. A little while ago I had to cut a concrete path and to hire a proper concrete saw was going to cost 80 or 90 dollars. I bought a cheap plastic Black and decker power saw for $49.00 and a couple of concrete cut off blades and did the job. The saw came in handy thereafter for lots of rough jobs. It lasted for some years until about two weeks ago it fell off the bench and broke the handle.
We have a Chinese brand here called Ozito. They produce a range of DIY tools with a three year warranty. Not available for commercial use. You only get one year on DeWalt and Hitachi and others. Ozito are gaining a reputation for being not a bad buy.
I did up our hallway and to get it plastered professionally was $40.00 per square metre Something around $2500 for the job. I plastered it myself, not too professionally and bought an Ozito drywall sander with integral dust collector for $139.00 and did the job myself. I couldn't have got the finish I did with out this excellent cheap sander. It is still going and has done another family house.
The question of environmental impact from production and transport and packaging of cheap tools that fail is another consideration.
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Clearly we all like good tools but there is a place for cheap tools. Tools just fit for the job and that is all. A little while ago I had to cut a concrete path and to hire a proper concrete saw was going to cost 80 or 90 dollars. I bought a cheap plastic Black and decker power saw for $49.00 and a couple of concrete cut off blades and did the job. The saw came in handy thereafter for lots of rough jobs. It lasted for some years until about two weeks ago it fell off the bench and broke the handle.
We have a Chinese brand here called Ozito. They produce a range of DIY tools with a three year warranty. Not available for commercial use. You only get one year on DeWalt and Hitachi and others. Ozito are gaining a reputation for being not a bad buy.
I did up our hallway and to get it plastered professionally was $40.00 per square metre Something around $2500 for the job. I plastered it myself, not too professionally and bought an Ozito drywall sander with integral dust collector for $139.00 and did the job myself. I couldn't have got the finish I did with out this excellent cheap sander. It is still going and has done another family house.
The question of environmental impact from production and transport and packaging of cheap tools that fail is another consideration.
That was a great story about the skill saw! I too just cut out some bad areas to patch today with the same setup. I was amazed at the speed I was able to cut through the concrete with a cheap diamond blade.
My throw-away tool was a finish nailer from Horrible Fright! $19.99 and came in a blow molded case with an extra striker and piston. I had forgotten my name brand finish nailer for a job I traveled a few miles to do and decided to just grab this piece-o-junk for this one-off event.
Well... that was in 2001, I have never used the name brand one since and am finishing my 5th box of 2", 16 gauge wire nails this week making some more bird houses. Probably my best investment so far.
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I also do the Horrible Freight tool thing from time to time.
I got a band saw from them that is still going strong! And that thing has cut TONS of steel out!
Also have a Generator from there that I've not had any issues with.
So cheap is not always bad.
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I also do the Horrible Freight tool thing from time to time.
I got a band saw from them that is still going strong! And that thing has cut TONS of steel out!
Also have a Generator from there that I've not had any issues with.
So cheap is not always bad.
There is a tool that I don't mind buying at Harbor Freight....angle grinders.
The other power tool I bought there was back in 2003, when the hubs and I built our house. We framed in steel, and I bought a cheapie cut-off saw at HF, for using to cut a LOT of steel.....both 14 g and the light weight wall framing steel and hat channel. That cut-off saw lasted at least a couple of years of HEAVY use while we built, and it finally quit when we were a few months away from being finished. When that one went out, I bought a Rigid, which I still have today.
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I also do the Horrible Freight tool thing from time to time.
I got a band saw from them that is still going strong! And that thing has cut TONS of steel out!
Also have a Generator from there that I've not had any issues with.
So cheap is not always bad.
The food truck has put a lot of hours on a predator generator. That thing runs for hours every day we run only gripe is how loud it is. Fires up first pull every time no matter the temps be easier using the starter but the pull start works just fine. I may try using some ply wood some time to deflect sound away from the trailer.
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I also do the Horrible Freight tool thing from time to time.
I got a band saw from them that is still going strong! And that thing has cut TONS of steel out!
Also have a Generator from there that I've not had any issues with.
So cheap is not always bad.
There is a tool that I don't mind buying at Harbor Freight....angle grinders.
The other power tool I bought there was back in 2003, when the hubs and I built our house. We framed in steel, and I bought a cheapie cut-off saw at HF, for using to cut a LOT of steel.....both 14 g and the light weight wall framing steel and hat channel. That cut-off saw lasted at least a couple of years of HEAVY use while we built, and it finally quit when we were a few months away from being finished. When that one went out, I bought a Rigid, which I still have today.
I'm still using a hf angle grinder I bought back in the mid 90s. I think I've only lubed it one or two times since buying it.
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I also do the Horrible Freight tool thing from time to time.
I got a band saw from them that is still going strong! And that thing has cut TONS of steel out!
Also have a Generator from there that I've not had any issues with.
So cheap is not always bad.
There is a tool that I don't mind buying at Harbor Freight....angle grinders.
The other power tool I bought there was back in 2003, when the hubs and I built our house. We framed in steel, and I bought a cheapie cut-off saw at HF, for using to cut a LOT of steel.....both 14 g and the light weight wall framing steel and hat channel. That cut-off saw lasted at least a couple of years of HEAVY use while we built, and it finally quit when we were a few months away from being finished. When that one went out, I bought a Rigid, which I still have today.
Their angle grinders are considered well worth the money by a lot of people.
I have one like new that was given to me, but I don't use it because I'm still trying to wear out a cheap $20 Ryobi I got back in 2010.
It's been dropped so many times on the shop floor I expected it to die years ago.
If it ever dies I'll switch to the Drill master or Chicago electric or whatever brand it happens to be and see how long it lasts.
One tool from HF I can't stand ( aside from all the stuff I just wont touch with a 10ft pole ) is their scroll saw.
I bought one almost 2 years ago now I think and it's just terrible, granted I wasn't that great with a scroll saw back in shop class but this thing is impossible to cut a straight line with.
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Only gripe is how loud it is.
You can Muffler it down.
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Only gripe is how loud it is.
You can Muffler it down.
I seen a few ways to do it but until we have the coffers warranty is king.
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I have knipex pliers that were bought back in the late 80s that are still in perfect working order and much prefer them over channel lock brands because the knipex are hinged so that the more force applied to the fastener the tighter they get so slippage is very uncommon if they are positioned correctly to start with. I also have knipex side cutters and straight cutters that will cut coins or small screw and bolts in half with ease and never knick or dull the cutting edges. Best pliers made IMO.
BD
I can say the same for my Channellock dykes and cutters, especially those with the recent XLT design which has relocated the pivot forward for added cutting power.
I've heard nothing but good things and I'm sure they're a great tool, but because they often cost 2x as much in many cases I am just not interested in trying anything from Knipex.
At least not until Channellock starts to let me down.
Their 8" mini bolt cutters are probably the only thing I'd buy from them because there is no American made option, or really any other option I know of that's not made in Taiwan or China.
Like I said I have not had to buy very many new tool in 25 plus years so all the knipex tools I have are at least 25 years or older so prices back then were not much if any more than channel lock brands and again are warrantied for life not that they have failed to need replaced.
The new channel locks may very well be as good or better but have no need to buy any to try out since what I have is not broken.
I can say that tools today are nowhere near the quality they were 20 plus years ago by any means. I had to replace a 1/2" drive 24" craftsman breaker about a year ago since my 40 plus year old one finally broke at the square that a socket attaches to, I was trying to get a output sprocket nut off a Harley tranny mainshaft that is a 2 7/8" nut installed with red loctite at 200 ft/lbs. I had the special socket and mainshaft support bushing and was hanging off the breaker bar with all my 200 pounds when it broke. Also broke a snap on breaker bar. The replaced breaker bars were nowhere near as well made as the original ones and did not even try to use them to remove the nut. Used a dremel tool with a diamond bit to cut thru the nut so I could drive a chisel in to the cut to spread it open and it came off by hand.
They just do not make tools like they used to IMO.
BD
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They just do not make tools like they used to IMO.
BD
No kidding... My Dad has a bunch of old punches (mixed brands; none identifiable)... All in great shape; minus some rust... So, I get a job in a machine shop... Ended up using center punches every day; did tons of layout work on structural steel tube (stainless too)... Killed both center punches out of my Dasco Pro set; they only lasted for about 6 months apiece before the pointy end started to mushroom... ??? ::)
Ordered another one; Blackhawk by Proto...
That one only got 3 months... >:(
Finally ended up grinding a point on a HSS reamer shank cut-off (DO NOT RECCOMEND THIS- severe risk of shattering!!!), and have used it ever since...
Shoddy heat treat seem to be the big issue; can say that I have had good luck with Estwing tools though...
Jesse
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The only center punch that I have found to retain a sharp point is a 3/8" tap I welded a 1" section of 3/8" mild steel rod to.
The rod absorbs much of the bounce and does not chip/shatter like the tap shank.
Ate there better options? Perhaps but this works so much better than anything else I have used.
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They just do not make tools like they used to IMO.
BD
No kidding... My Dad has a bunch of old punches (mixed brands; none identifiable)... All in great shape; minus some rust... So, I get a job in a machine shop... Ended up using center punches every day; did tons of layout work on structural steel tube (stainless too)... Killed both center punches out of my Dasco Pro set; they only lasted for about 6 months apiece before the pointy end started to mushroom... ??? ::)
Ordered another one; Blackhawk by Proto...
That one only got 3 months... >:(
Finally ended up grinding a point on a HSS reamer shank cut-off (DO NOT RECCOMEND THIS- severe risk of shattering!!!), and have used it ever since...
Shoddy heat treat seem to be the big issue; can say that I have had good luck with Estwing tools though...
Jesse
I've had good luck with Mahew.
Starrett I have never tried because they're pretty pricey, but I have heard nothing but good things.
There are many things that are made like they used to be, but there are also things made to be low cost.
Dasco pro is one of them.
I have never tried a center punch from them but have multiple sets of their regular punches and loads of their pry bars.
The business end of their pin punches have held up fine for me, but the striking ends are extra soft for sure.
I have been much happier with the quality of my WILDE punches.
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Thanks for the tip; I had eyeballed a set of the Mahews once, just never pulled the trigger... They were one of the few punch/chisel sets that I have seen that had chipping (?) chisels for cutting grooves...
Jesse
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The single greatest tool invention/improvement of the last fifty years is the ratchet wrench. Not the stamped steel lightweight ones, but the forged ones like the GearWrench brand. Either the flat non-reversible style or the reversible ones.
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The single greatest tool invention/improvement of the last fifty years is the ratchet wrench. Not the stamped steel lightweight ones, but the forged ones like the GearWrench brand. Either the flat non-reversible style or the reversible ones.
I like the flex head ones. But, the Gear Wrench heads will flop after awhile. I ended up with Kobalt brand from Lowe's.
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The single greatest tool invention/improvement of the last fifty years is the ratchet wrench. Not the stamped steel lightweight ones, but the forged ones like the GearWrench brand. Either the flat non-reversible style or the reversible ones.
I like the flex head ones. But, the Gear Wrench heads will flop after awhile. I ended up with Kobalt brand from Lowe's.
I no longer own them, but the US made reversible Craftsman professionals were great.
I don't remember exactly who manufactured them but I do know they were made in Texas.
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The single greatest tool invention/improvement of the last fifty years is the ratchet wrench. Not the stamped steel lightweight ones, but the forged ones like the GearWrench brand. Either the flat non-reversible style or the reversible ones.
I hope that I get this right.
A clerk working at Sears designed the ratchet wrench and sold it to Sears for $10,000. It was such a big hit that he went back and sued Sears for $1million, and Sears gave it to him. A few years later he again sued for $10 million and Sears gave it to him.
I agree, it's the greatest time saver.
Hunter
B.t.w. I think that Lowes bought the Craftsman line of tools.
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The single greatest tool invention/improvement of the last fifty years is the ratchet wrench. Not the stamped steel lightweight ones, but the forged ones like the GearWrench brand. Either the flat non-reversible style or the reversible ones.
I hope that I get this right.
A clerk working at Sears designed the ratchet wrench and sold it to Sears for $10,000. It was such a big hit that he went back and sued Sears for $1million, and Sears gave it to him. A few years later he again sued for $10 million and Sears gave it to him.
I agree, it's the greatest time saver.
Hunter
B.t.w. I think that Lowes bought the Craftsman line of tools.
"Stanley Black & Decker acquired the Craftsman tool brand from Sears for about $900 million, the companies announced Thursday.Mar 7, 2019"
https://www.baltimoresun.com (https://www.baltimoresun.com)
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Ah ha, owned by Stanly Black and Decker. They are marketing through Lowes, Ace Hardware and Amazon. I think that they have their own stores too. I had heard on the radio that you can get Craftsman tools, and replacement tools at Lowes.
I'm very happy that they are still available. I always liked Craftsman tools.
Hunter
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Ah ha, owned by Stanly Black and Decker. They are marketing through Lowes, Ace Hardware and Amazon. I think that they have their own stores too. I had heard on the radio that you can get Craftsman tools, and replacement tools at Lowes.
I'm very happy that they are still available. I always liked Craftsman tools.
Hunter
They are nowhere near what they used to be.
Sears essentially cut Western Forge off at the knees and instead of saving them with contracts for Screwdrivers pliers and adjustable wrenches they just let them die.
It's been well over a year since Ideal industries shut down the last American manufacturer of Adjustable wrenches, a company that S-B&D could have easily saved.
Instead they chose to open some of their own factories that have yet to actually accomplish anything.
Now the closes thing to an American made tool you can get from Craftsman are a few restyled Stanley tapes and utility knives, maybe a level and nylon speed square here and there.
Theres a Craftsman " factory " in I think Lousiana, but a factory tour video
S-B&D put out inadvertently showed that they weren't doing anything but packaging tools.
The power tools are supposed to be " assembled in USA " but there wasn't a single tool component or machine to assemble tools with to be found, nothing but completed tools and retail packaging.
Apparently putting finished tools accessories and paperwork into a box is how you " assemble " a power tool ::)
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I seen Milwaukee has started to produce more hand tools may have been for a while and I just now seen?. I don't know if its a gimmick like the gear wrench passthrough sockets but the square back sockets look neat. Seems like they could split easier as a unfounded speculation but the ability to not roll away is useful and also can put a wrench on them for what ever reason one would feel that is necessary.
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I seen Milwaukee has started to produce more hand tools may have been for a while and I just now seen?. I don't know if its a gimmick like the gear wrench passthrough sockets but the square back sockets look neat. Seems like they could split easier as a unfounded speculation but the ability to not roll away is useful and also can put a wrench on them for what ever reason one would feel that is necessary.
They have been, but I feel they should stay in their lane.
I personally would not buy hand tools from a power tool company, especially when the main selling point for them is gimmicky features.
I wouldn't buy a drill from WRIGHT tool, and I'm not gonna buy a socket set from Milwaukee.
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These precision oil pens are dirt cheap and very handy to have around.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Mps9rS1T/20210509-110825.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/k2bNBL13)
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These precision oil pens are dirt cheap and very handy to have around.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Mps9rS1T/20210509-110825.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/k2bNBL13)
Neat-O! Got a link? Please? ::)
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Yes neat tool but I don't need one. I have little little oil cans that I hardly ever, if ever use,
Neat thread to, so keep talking because I haven't got anything to say.
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Yes neat tool but I don't need one. I have little little oil cans that I hardly ever, if ever use,
Neat thread to, so keep talking because I haven't got anything to say.
I have actually learned QUITE A BIT following this thread!
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Liz it's official you are a redneck.
My impact screwdriver has saved my bacon numerous times with hard to remove screws, especially on my car rotors. I had to use a 3lb hammer on it with all my force for probably around 25 hits to finally remove them that's how hard they were to remove but I got it done!
(https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fcontentgrid.homedepot-static.com%2Fhdus%2Fen_US%2FDTCCOMNEW%2Ffetch%2FFetchRules%2FRich_Content%2F205674680-1-AG-EDIT.jpg&f=1&nofb=1)
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Liz it's official you are a redneck.
(https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fcontentgrid.homedepot-static.com%2Fhdus%2Fen_US%2FDTCCOMNEW%2Ffetch%2FFetchRules%2FRich_Content%2F205674680-1-AG-EDIT.jpg&f=1&nofb=1)
Lol 😆
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Liz it's official you are a redneck.
My impact screwdriver has saved my bacon numerous times with hard to remove screws, especially on my car rotors. I had to use a 3lb hammer on it with all my force for probably around 25 hits to finally remove them that's how hard they were to remove but I got it done!
(https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fcontentgrid.homedepot-static.com%2Fhdus%2Fen_US%2FDTCCOMNEW%2Ffetch%2FFetchRules%2FRich_Content%2F205674680-1-AG-EDIT.jpg&f=1&nofb=1)
Not sure if you know this or not but when using a hand impact driver like you show you need to apply some rotational force on the driver as you hit it with the hammer so the cam mechanism inside that cause the driver to loosen the screw can actually force the screw to loosen when the impact cause the cam to rotate the inside the driver. Just holding it in the screw without applying rotational force to it before striking with a hammer greatly reduces the effectiveness of its ability to free tight screws. It should not take 25 hits to loosen the screws if used correctly.
Just an FYI.
BD
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These precision oil pens are dirt cheap and very handy to have around.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Mps9rS1T/20210509-110825.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/k2bNBL13)
Neat-O! Got a link? Please? ::)
I don't, but they're are loads of them under loads of different brands.
Just Google P/T precision oil pen.
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These precision oil pens are dirt cheap and very handy to have around.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Mps9rS1T/20210509-110825.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/k2bNBL13)
Neat-O! Got a link? Please? ::)
I don't, but they're are loads of them under loads of different brands.
Just Google P/T precision oil pen.
Aries 70004 or
Titan 15200 Precision Oiler
Or General
https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/1014705461?pid=173209&utm_medium=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Shooting+-+Gun+Cleaning&utm_content=173209&gclid=Cj0KCQjws-OEBhCkARIsAPhOkIbtwP1pVEdffDJyk0QwJOsrFvwiPeb0za1kZYwqYFCpQpLL7mWgi2gaAj21EALw_wcB
I have the Titan.
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These precision oil pens are dirt cheap and very handy to have around.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Mps9rS1T/20210509-110825.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/k2bNBL13)
Neat-O! Got a link? Please? ::)
I don't, but they're are loads of them under loads of different brands.
Just Google P/T precision oil pen.
Aries 70004 or
Titan 15200 Precision Oiler
Or General
https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/1014705461?pid=173209&utm_medium=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Shooting+-+Gun+Cleaning&utm_content=173209&gclid=Cj0KCQjws-OEBhCkARIsAPhOkIbtwP1pVEdffDJyk0QwJOsrFvwiPeb0za1kZYwqYFCpQpLL7mWgi2gaAj21EALw_wcB (https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/1014705461?pid=173209&utm_medium=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Shooting+-+Gun+Cleaning&utm_content=173209&gclid=Cj0KCQjws-OEBhCkARIsAPhOkIbtwP1pVEdffDJyk0QwJOsrFvwiPeb0za1kZYwqYFCpQpLL7mWgi2gaAj21EALw_wcB)
I have the Titan.
https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-15200-Precision-Oiler/dp/B002LYQALQ (https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-15200-Precision-Oiler/dp/B002LYQALQ)
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Not sure if you know this or not but when using a hand impact driver like you show you need to apply some rotational force on the driver as you hit it with the hammer so the cam mechanism inside that cause the driver to loosen the screw can actually force the screw to loosen when the impact cause the cam to rotate the inside the driver. Just holding it in the screw without applying rotational force to it before striking with a hammer greatly reduces the effectiveness of its ability to free tight screws. It should not take 25 hits to loosen the screws if used correctly.
Just an FYI.
BD
When my dad was showing me how to use one when I was a kid, he explicitly told me, "Seat it deep, keep it straight, keep it tight and hit it ONCE!". I have never struck a screw more than once since (unless I botched it up the first hit!).
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Liz it's official you are a redneck.
My impact screwdriver has saved my bacon numerous times with hard to remove screws, especially on my car rotors. I had to use a 3lb hammer on it with all my force for probably around 25 hits to finally remove them that's how hard they were to remove but I got it done!
(https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fcontentgrid.homedepot-static.com%2Fhdus%2Fen_US%2FDTCCOMNEW%2Ffetch%2FFetchRules%2FRich_Content%2F205674680-1-AG-EDIT.jpg&f=1&nofb=1)
Now that's cool! Never seen one of those before; but it's on the bucket list now!
Jesse
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How many of you count a paraffin candle as a tool?
;)
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Only in a power outage. LOL :D
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You should check out removing stubborn bolts/nuts with heat and wax.
;D
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Cool Jeff! I had no idea!
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It also makes it easier to screw brass wood screws into hardwood. Just rub the screw on the candle and have at it
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My Impact Driver has proved essential many a time....
But mine is a Lisle brand
(https://www.djvmerchandise.com/assets/images/LIS29200.jpg)
Oh and a Spring loaded "auto center punch"... friggin awesome tool.
Depress the adjustable spring tension for a "starter" on a drill bit or break a car window in an emergency.
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71553hsRNcL.__AC_SY300_SX300_QL70_FMwebp_.jpg)
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Liz it's official you are a redneck.
My impact screwdriver has saved my bacon numerous times with hard to remove screws, especially on my car rotors. I had to use a 3lb hammer on it with all my force for probably around 25 hits to finally remove them that's how hard they were to remove but I got it done!
(https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fcontentgrid.homedepot-static.com%2Fhdus%2Fen_US%2FDTCCOMNEW%2Ffetch%2FFetchRules%2FRich_Content%2F205674680-1-AG-EDIT.jpg&f=1&nofb=1)
Now that's cool! Never seen one of those before; but it's on the bucket list now!
Jesse
You've never seen a hand impact driver ?
I had two that I never use, one is still around somewhere but the other got sold in a box of junk at my last yardsale.
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My Impact Driver has proved essential many a time....
But mine is a Lisle brand
https://www.djvmerchandise.com/assets/images/LIS29200.jpg (https://www.djvmerchandise.com/assets/images/LIS29200.jpg)
Oh and a Spring loaded "auto center punch"... friggin awesome tool.
Depress the adjustable spring tension for a "starter" on a drill bit or break a car window in an emergency.
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71553hsRNcL.__AC_SY300_SX300_QL70_FMwebp_.jpg)
Lisle make great tools, pretty much all of the tool trucks carry products of theirs and they OEM for lots of other companies.
I've thought about trying a spring loaded center punch many times, but I'm just so used to doing it with a center punch and hammer.
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It also makes it easier to screw brass wood screws into hardwood. Just rub the screw on the candle and have at it
My G-Pa kept a crusty bar pf soap in his toolbox for driving screws easier, way before cordless drivers, also had a bit in a hand crank drill for driving screws :) Still have the tools had to use the soap elsewhere ;)
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Liz it's official you are a redneck.
My impact screwdriver has saved my bacon numerous times with hard to remove screws, especially on my car rotors. I had to use a 3lb hammer on it with all my force for probably around 25 hits to finally remove them that's how hard they were to remove but I got it done!
Now that's cool! Never seen one of those before; but it's on the bucket list now!
Jesse
You've never seen a hand impact driver ?
I had two that I never use, one is still around somewhere but the other got sold in a box of junk at my last yardsale.
Nope; never before... Not that I may not have seen one lying around somewhere; but never knew what I saw...
Jesse
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Not sure if you know this or not but when using a hand impact driver like you show you need to apply some rotational force on the driver as you hit it with the hammer so the cam mechanism inside that cause the driver to loosen the screw can actually force the screw to loosen when the impact cause the cam to rotate the inside the driver. Just holding it in the screw without applying rotational force to it before striking with a hammer greatly reduces the effectiveness of its ability to free tight screws. It should not take 25 hits to loosen the screws if used correctly.
Just an FYI.
BD
Especially with a 3lb hammer! Thanks I didn't know that but I had used it before other times on things and didn't have trouble. Those Koreans know how to get their screws in TIGHT. I've seen others on a Hyundai forum say they had all hades getting them off of their rotors as well.
Jeff I've seen people use pb blaster and heat but not wax. Which works best?
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Here is someone who quantified how the wax works. Keep in mind he is only doing rusty fastener removal. He has other videos using penetration oils and well a boat load of other tests he dose. He is no scientist but he dose what he can to level the playing field.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bIunR4VL5vc (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bIunR4VL5vc)
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My Impact Driver has proved essential many a time....
But mine is a Lisle brand
(https://www.djvmerchandise.com/assets/images/LIS29200.jpg)
Oh and a Spring loaded "auto center punch"... friggin awesome tool.
Depress the adjustable spring tension for a "starter" on a drill bit or break a car window in an emergency.
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71553hsRNcL.__AC_SY300_SX300_QL70_FMwebp_.jpg)
I've got the same impact. I bought it back in 1973 when I was working as a Honda mc mechanic. That thing has saved my behind more times than I can count even with my shoes and socks off.🤪 I use to have a buzz box but gave it away just before I moved. For those who don't know what that is it's for setting the points in a magnito ignition. When the points are closed it makes a certain tone but when the points open it changes the tone and you know that that is where the spark plug will fire.
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Picked some more American made goodness.
A Barco industries 4lb drilling hammer, and 5 Vaughan pry bars ( bought 2 little cats paws and gifted one already).
(https://i.postimg.cc/K8GMZcNX/20210512-142645.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BXz6p0kN)
In case you don't know, when a Vaughan tool doesn't make the cut for cosmetic reasons they paint it blue slap a Grayvik sticker on it and severely discount it.
They also make stuff for Valley which gets painted grey.
If it's good to go it gets the Vaughan or Dasco pro brand.
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Wow David, NICE!
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Wow David, NICE!
Well priced too.
The large bars were $12.50 and the little ones $11.50.
The Barco hammer was the most expensive at $20.
You can get a Grayvik 4lber from HJE for under $10 but the shipping really brings the price up.
I bought everything at a place by my mom's called bargain Smart where I spent so much time as a teenager.
If you've ever seen a Flea market tool booth full of cheap tools it's like a retail version of that.
In fact they started with a flea market stand which they still have.
It's better than Harbor freight in a lot of way because they get lots of closeouts so you never know what you'll find.
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That sounds like FUN!
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That sounds like FUN!
Most of the tools are pretty low end but there are a lot of items worth getting for the ridiculously low price.
For example getting a box of about 200 #2 Phillips bits for $12, I've bought them before and the quality is no worse than the Ryobi or dewalt bits.
I wouldn't be surprised if they came from the same factory.
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That's an unbelievable deal.
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Those are some great deals.... Though with all those prybars don't you need to find something to destruct? ;)
I am actually glad that there is not a place like that near me... My toolboxes are fairly full as-is!
Need to snap a pic or two for this thread myself... One of my recent purchases was for splitting firewood; the "Kindling Kracker"
Best money I ever spent in that department... We split our wood pretty small (experimentation proved our stove burns best that way); and taking stuff down that far with a hatchet was NOT fun... Solid cast iron; made to last a lifetime and then some-a very good buy. :D
Stock pic courtesy of Northern Tool; just sayin' so the copyright folks don't throw no fits....
Jesse
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Oh I've got a small stack of pallets awaiting the new pry bars.
I just took a head count and it looks like I'm up to 20 pry bars now :o
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Not sure if you know this or not but when using a hand impact driver like you show you need to apply some rotational force on the driver as you hit it with the hammer so the cam mechanism inside that cause the driver to loosen the screw can actually force the screw to loosen when the impact cause the cam to rotate the inside the driver. Just holding it in the screw without applying rotational force to it before striking with a hammer greatly reduces the effectiveness of its ability to free tight screws. It should not take 25 hits to loosen the screws if used correctly.
Just an FYI.
BD
When my dad was showing me how to use one when I was a kid, he explicitly told me, "Seat it deep, keep it straight, keep it tight and hit it ONCE!". I have never struck a screw more than once since (unless I botched it up the first hit!).
Yep those are the exact steps required to use a hand impact wrench for best results and the heavier the hammer the greater the rotational force applied to the fastener. Just make sure you hit the impact not your hand cause those heavy hammers hurt like the dickens if you miss. ;)
Mine is an old snap on from the late 70s in a plastic case with several hardened tipped bits of varying size Philips and straight tips, but Allen sockets and plain sockets can be used as well with the hand impacts.
BD
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I have an assortment of pry bars and wrecking bars. One of them is the same as the biggest one in Bantam5s display.
It was a very cheap one I bought the The Warehouse for about $5.00 NZ. I subjected it to all sorts of abuse and broke one of the prongs off the right angle bend end. All I did was break the other one off and ground it sharp. It has withstood years of wrecking, being used as a wedge, splitting out framing and it just keeps going.
So there you go. Very good value from a cheap tool.
Another bar we have here is called a Dogg - U bar. Something like that but they get called a doggy bar. A bit like the top one in the display, but a bit different.
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Working on some tool organization.
(https://i.postimg.cc/d3B39dsf/20210513-150717.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/C1pKTJdt/20210513-150803.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8f7Tp7rd)
I've still got this pile of sharp stuff to organize though.
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Axes. There is a joy in using a well sharpened axe. You just don't get that joy from a chain saw but they have their advantages.
You have some nice ones. Never used one of those double edge ones but real American/Canadian frontier stuff.
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Hey guys.....tell me about machetes. I would like a good one, but can't seem to find any around here. I bought one a few years ago- Tramontina (?) brand, made in Brazil, but it is NOT impressive. Would I do good to go buy an old military surplus one?
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Hey guys.....tell me about machetes. I would like a good one, but can't seem to find any around here. I bought one a few years ago- Tramontina (?) brand, made in Brazil, but it is NOT impressive. Would I do good to go buy an old military surplus one?
If you weren't impressed with a Tramontina you won't be with anything, unless the particular pattern just wasn't what you needed.
They are one of the best you can get as far as most machete enthusiasts are concerned.
The best machetes are made in south America where they know how to make a good one because they rely on them daily.
They are generally less refined , but they're an inexpensive working tool.
For general machete use you want a thiner blade that's light and fast with a full distal taper, and a well treated carbon steel that really sings when you're using it yet not so hard that it chips easily in use.
You could get an Ontario GI machete but handles are uncomfortable, the blades are thicker and less nimble, and the harder steel chips more easily in use.
I have I think 8 machetes, mostly Gavilan de Incolma from Colombia which are on the cheaper side, and imicasa machetes from El Salvador.
Really it depends on what you're doing.
This here is my absolute favorite machete, but I don't know how you'd get one as it came in the last 5pc random Incolma machete assortment I bought and I haven't been able to track them down for sale on their own.
(https://i.postimg.cc/6QBQpLKn/20210303-104505.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/75Q4BzfZ)
The only thing I have done to this Gavilan Bolo pattern machete besides sharpen it is reshaped the handle and gave it a beeswax twine wrap.
This thing is a real beast.
It's light and fast, but it has real power in the cut , and the steel sings like no other.
I am constantly hitting rocks, so I favor an edge that deforms and can easily be hammered back. When they chip that steel is gone forever.
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Axes. There is a joy in using a well sharpened axe. You just don't get that joy from a chain saw but they have their advantages.
You have some nice ones. Never used one of those double edge ones but real American/Canadian frontier stuff.
I love the double bits, the balance is great and the ability to have 2 differently profiled bits is great.
This 1950's 4lb True Temper Kelly Handmade California pattern is my favorite double bit.
(https://i.postimg.cc/FzpMGc85/IMG-20190809-153907670-2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PvLV5Ld2)
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Maybe my machete just needs a good professional sharpening. I was just really disappointed in the poor performance.
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Maybe my machete just needs a good professional sharpening. I was just really disappointed in the poor performance.
Did you sharpen it when you got it ?
Most real deal machetes don't come sharp, unless you're getting a fancier one designed for the knife enthusiast / bushcraft type crowd.
A good single cut mill file is all you really need to sharpen a working machete.
Me personally once I've gotten an actual edge on it I just keep a rough working edge on them with a cheap carbide pull through sharpener.
Not good for use on a quality knife you care about, but for a quick and dirty working edge on a machete they're great.
In the end it depends how you're using your machete and what you're usually cutting with it.
I personally don't keep most of my machetes very sharp, sharp enough you could cut yourself but nowhere near as sharp as I keep my axes or my knives.
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Maybe my machete just needs a good professional sharpening. I was just really disappointed in the poor performance.
Miss Lizzie, I remember this guy in the Philippines back in the 70's to 2010 who used to sharpen nippers, shears, knives, and all kinds of implements in his 1.5 x 4 square meter shop.
He was highly skilled, and he was able to send all of his kids to college by using his simple but lucrative talent.
His son though was not as skilled as him though, but his nephew was able to inherit his craft down to a T.
So fascinating to look at them as they sharpen and hone edges without ruining the bevels ;D
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I have a machete, just one. It was a really cheap tool; rusty and knicked when I found it bin diving. Sharpened it with a file and cleaned most of the rust off. It is just the tool for hacking blackberry and akeake on the tracks that I walk the dog on. Good for soft or light stuff but struggles with manuka or anything big or hard.
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Hey guys.....tell me about machetes. I would like a good one, but can't seem to find any around here. I bought one a few years ago- Tramontina (?) brand, made in Brazil, but it is NOT impressive. Would I do good to go buy an old military surplus one?
Check with a company that sells to surveyors. Here is a link to a 24" they also have 18".
https://www.allenprecision.com/24-martindale-machete (https://www.allenprecision.com/24-martindale-machete)
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Got this bad boy recently. Cuts up to 1" limbs. The 56v battery lasts up to an hour but if that's not long enough you can get one that lasts up to 2hrs. It did a good job trimming my trees.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/EGO-Power-56-Volt-24-in-Dual-Cordless-Electric-Hedge-Trimmer-Battery-Included/1003130704 (https://www.lowes.com/pd/EGO-Power-56-Volt-24-in-Dual-Cordless-Electric-Hedge-Trimmer-Battery-Included/1003130704)
(https://mobileimages.lowes.com/product/converted/692042/692042008245.jpg?size=pdhi)
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I have two trimmers like that but both are 240 volt. One is a Makita that is so old it surprises me every time it starts. The other is a cheaper Black and Decker. Neither has a bar as long as yours and they definitely will not cut 1 inch branches, could cut their cords if you are not very careful.
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This is one of the most useful and versatile tools I own, and It's nothing more than a piece of windshield wiper insert that I cut and bent to shape with my multitool.
(https://i.postimg.cc/sDv2zsDy/20210516-040134.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PPnHzGwF)
I use it all the time at work for poking picking and scraping, really the possibilities for this are about endless.
It's extremely simple and it's 100% free.
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Yes, I can see that your tool has multiple uses. Free and adjustable for different tasks with a bit of bending or grinding. Kapai E hoa.
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We haven't talked about saws yet.
I have plenty. The most used is a New Zealand made combination saw bench and jointer. 8 1/2 inch saw and 4 inch buzzer. I bought it about 40 years ago and have used it a lot. A big lot. Still on the same electric motor but I have changed the saw spindle bearings. Caste Iron table and it will never wear out. They don't make them anymore because they last too long. Cost me $600 NZ. I can remember that well. It has saved me money and repaid time and again. I have built boats with it and even made a living as a carpenter for a few years.
I have two drop saws, mitre saws. One a Hitachi, really good but limited to boards 120mm wide the other is a Chinese Morgan brand. It will cut to 320 mms. A bit rough to operate but rugged and just keeps going. That cost me $399.00. I can remember because it was a present to myself the first time I retired.
3 tenon saws of various sizes and 9 handsaws ranging from panel saws , crosscut and rip saws. Seven of them are Diston brand and I learned to reshape and set them. Two are disposable hard point saws. You can't resharpen them.
And a couple of skill saws. We call all hand held circular saws Skillys no matter the brand. It originates from the Skillsaw brand. Then there are all the other little saws and a reciprocating demolition saw, bandsaw.
I will have to learn to post photographs one day. (Last words. Not famous)
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My Gosh, Hugh. That is an impressive saw!~
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Well because of moving and downsizing I gave my stepson a 20 yard trailer full of my carpenter , machinist tools and assorted heavy duty tools.
Only things left are some fine carving tools.
Froe
Heavy carving hatchet
Light carving hatchet
Adze
Assorted gouges
Old stump
Looking forward to to simpler lifestyles
Peace
Mitch
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I am still using my 45 year old craftsman 8" table top drill press that I had to replace the spindle in it from using as a mill which a drill press is not meant to be side loaded like a mill and had a end mill bit hang up in some work and bent the spindle, its even a cheap tapered press on spindle/drill chuck version but still going strong.
Also have a 45 year old 12 gallon craftsman shop compressor that may have had the oil changed twice and the filter blown out once in it 45 year life. Still pumping to 130 psi most every day just like it was new. If it aint broke don't fix it is my motto and they just don't make em like they used to IMO.
As stated earlier most of all my tools are at a minimum of 20 to 50 years old and still working as new.
BD
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A 2nd pair of current 337's, these for work.
(https://i.postimg.cc/sxdX8cwZ/20210517-114806.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/k6sqRxrn)
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I have two trimmers like that but both are 240 volt. One is a Makita that is so old it surprises me every time it starts. The other is a cheaper Black and Decker. Neither has a bar as long as yours and they definitely will not cut 1 inch branches, could cut their cords if you are not very careful.
I have a 20v black n decker too. Lasts way longer than my old 18v black n decker that I still have as backup.
Speaking of saws I used my Stihl MS250C to cut two dead crape myrtles down and I had several others that were way overgrown so those got minimized. Wound up being around 15 mower trailer loads hauled into the woods.
(https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=http%3A%2F%2Fi.ebayimg.com%2Fimages%2Fg%2FuOEAAOSwmCVY~Rmb%2Fs-l300.jpg&f=1&nofb=1)
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I have two trimmers like that but both are 240 volt. One is a Makita that is so old it surprises me every time it starts. The other is a cheaper Black and Decker. Neither has a bar as long as yours and they definitely will not cut 1 inch branches, could cut their cords if you are not very careful.
I have a 20v black n decker too. Lasts way longer than my old 18v black n decker that I still have as backup.
Speaking of saws I used my Stihl MS250C to cut two dead crape myrtles down and I had several others that were way overgrown so those got minimized. Wound up being around 15 mower trailer loads hauled into the woods.
(https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=http%3A%2F%2Fi.ebayimg.com%2Fimages%2Fg%2FuOEAAOSwmCVY~Rmb%2Fs-l300.jpg&f=1&nofb=1)
That has some interesting looking grain to it wonder what it could be used for as a stock.
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If I read you right, Insanity, you are looking for a heavy stock to absorb recoil. There was that special saw in an earlier post.
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Are we slowing down on this thread. We haven't talked about planes yet.
Maybe I should let the thread settle at its own pace but I keep checking for something new.
Would still like to meet buldawg76 and see his tools.
I see ssbn617 has given most of his tools away but kept some cutting, carving tools just to keep his hand and eye active and a dream alive.
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Right now I dont need a stock but that wood looks like it would have some good figure to it.
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Anyone else have a thing for small steel toolboxes ? I love old school steel boxes in general, but especially small ones.
I got this Toyo ST-350 cantilever box a few months back and couldn't be happier with it.
They're a bit spendy at about $100 shipped from Japan, but they're such an efficient little box that's well made.
Apparently they got some sort of award by the museum of modern art when they debuted in the 60's, and while they were out of stock they seem to be the one place in the US you can order them.
I thought I'd have to leave out some of the tools in the 17" barn roof box with tray I was using before, but I fit all of it and then some no problem.
(https://i.postimg.cc/KvWQGyxz/20210518-165334.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ppDKC49b)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Vkbg5HkF/20210518-170118.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/v4bfNh91)
(https://i.postimg.cc/SsV7HBgm/20210518-170124.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZBBddMkQ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Bv0TbSyq/20210518-170207.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/G4X8SCdN)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Kzct79xw/20210518-165426.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7CcCwnCn)
(https://i.postimg.cc/pV6K8Y7c/20210518-170019.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LhjqFfmj)
It's set up as my house / go box.
Stays in the house for any small jobs so I don't have to go out to the garage, and goes with me if say I'm picking something up I'll need to disassemble to get home or I'm bringing the mini bikes somewhere and may need to adjust / tighten something, or if I need to fix something at my mom's house.
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This little guy is the Snap-On " party box " it's essentially a miniature replica of their KRA21 that was an extremely popular box back in the 60's, it was released in 1991 and contained a poker set.
(https://i.postimg.cc/L4Jp4L13/20210518-172323.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/NLvVpybK)
Even though it's intended as a poker case , it is actually a legitimate little tool box and made every bit as well as you'd expect.
I bought it off Ebay, removed the contents which weren't all original anyways, and it now contains my main / go-to 1/4dr kit.
The heart of the kit is a complete WRIGHT tool set Metric and SAE both standard and deep wells, with all the drive handles.
(https://i.postimg.cc/zv7WP6FT/20210518-172350.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/q6tzNmY7)
(https://i.postimg.cc/tTHxRprh/20210518-172427.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gwNJNFbJ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/MKGjpsYr/20210518-172442.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7bpLBndg)
I use this set all the time, it's got all the 1/4dr I need plus other small tools such as wrenches and pliers that come in handy when I'm working on something with smaller fasteners.
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Anyone else have a thing for small steel toolboxes ? I love old school steel boxes in general, but especially small ones.
I got this Toyo ST-350 cantilever box a few months back and couldn't be happier with it.
They're a bit spendy at about $100 shipped from Japan, but they're such an efficient little box that's well made.
Apparently they got some sort of award by the museum of modern art when they debuted in the 60's, and while they were out of stock they seem to be the one place in the US you can order them.
I thought I'd have to leave out some of the tools in the 17" barn roof box with tray I was using before, but I fit all of it and then some no problem.
(https://i.postimg.cc/KvWQGyxz/20210518-165334.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ppDKC49b)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Vkbg5HkF/20210518-170118.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/v4bfNh91)
(https://i.postimg.cc/SsV7HBgm/20210518-170124.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZBBddMkQ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Bv0TbSyq/20210518-170207.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/G4X8SCdN)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Kzct79xw/20210518-165426.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7CcCwnCn)
(https://i.postimg.cc/pV6K8Y7c/20210518-170019.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LhjqFfmj)
It's set up as my house / go box.
Stays in the house for any small jobs so I don't have to go out to the garage, and goes with me if say I'm picking something up I'll need to disassemble to get home or I'm bringing the mini bikes somewhere and may need to adjust / tighten something, or if I need to fix something at my mom's house.
I LOVE old steel boxes, but the ones I have are mostly tackle boxes, although I do have one single tray metal toolbox and one newer small metal tool box that I keep most of my electrical tools in.
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I have three steel tool boxes. One is commercially fabricated out of sheet steel and very robust but without the fold out trays. The other two are smaller but made out of pressed steel. They are excellent for tools in the workshop. I will not take them on my small yacht because in heavy weather salt water gets in when I would rather it did not. There is nothing worse than a rusty tool box so plastic in the boat.
PS. It sounds like I have everything but I have not. A lot of my tools I have bought at second hand shops. That is where you get the old brand names with good American or English steel.
And I get stuff bin diving at the marina. People throw away treasure that just needs cleaning and sharpening. Just a grinder and honing job.
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Are we slowing down on this thread. We haven't talked about planes yet.
Maybe I should let the thread settle at its own pace but I keep checking for something new.
Would still like to meet buldawg76 and see his tools.
I see ssbn617 has given most of his tools away but kept some cutting, carving tools just to keep his hand and eye active and a dream alive.
Hugh
Its a shame we live around the world from each other since I would love to show you some of my old tools and specialty tools from being a GM mechanic for 25 years. I have specialty tools to perform jobs on Gm vehicles from the 70s to the late 90s from electrical systems to engines and trannies. Most have not been touched in 20 plus years but you never know when you may need them for future use.
I really am somewhat of a hoarder when it comes to tools since in my line of work you can never have to many. Plus if the tool saves you time on a job it pays for itself in short order. When you work flat rate like most dealers pay time is money so tools save time and make you money. If a job pays 2 hours and you can do it in 1 hour you get paid 2 hours but if you do it in 4 hours you still get paid 2 hours, hence time is money and tools that save you time make you money. Then you have to be skilled enough to diagnosis, repair and verify the issue is resolved before you return the vehicle to the customer the first time around because if it comes back with the same issue now you are working for free. I prided myself in having a comeback percentage of less than 2% by taking the extra few minutes on a job to make sure it was fixed right the first time. That is one of my pet peeves in life right now is it seems that the accountability for ones actions and pride in workmanship are severely lacking to non existent for the most part.
I can post some pics of my tool boxes and garage but beware it is a colossal mess that only I know where everything is and appears to be a hoarders paradise. I not only have tins of tools but just as many parts for cars and bikes that I still own and tinker on from time to time. I pity my wife if I go first and she has to deal with my 50 plus years of collecting/hoarding of tools and parts in the garage and 12 by 16 shed out back that is also crammed full tools and parts. plus now 6 years of airguns and parts in the hobby room as well. I guess it my form of a life insurance policy for her. ??? ??? :o ;)
BD
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Are we slowing down on this thread. We haven't talked about planes yet.
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You mean like these?
My set is out in the shop "somewhere" ... too dark to find them now. ::)
(https://content.speedwaymotors.com/ProductImages/91089405_L1600_16f19c5b-bd6e-4fa4-a7a8-ae90d009e828.jpg)
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I have never seen one of those. It is a pair of pliers with a pen attachment or maybe a torch. No. It is a wigwam for a gooses bridle to wind the sun up with.
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Are we slowing down on this thread. We haven't talked about planes yet.
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You mean like these?
My set is out in the shop "somewhere" ... too dark to find them now. ::)
(https://content.speedwaymotors.com/ProductImages/91089405_L1600_16f19c5b-bd6e-4fa4-a7a8-ae90d009e828.jpg)
Scott, I will see your safety wire pliers and raise you a spool of annealed safety wire. ;)
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I have never seen one of those. It is a pair of pliers with a pen attachment or maybe a torch. No. It is a wigwam for a gooses bridle to wind the sun up with.
Indeed it is! ;D
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Actually, it looks like a pair of safety wire pliers I have a pair like that out in my garage roll around
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Actually, it looks like a pair of safety wire pliers I have a pair like that out in my garage roll around
Yep, aviation safety wire pliers.
Lock them onto the wire and pull the knob out and the spiral rod it's attached to twists the whole thing.
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Actually, it looks like a pair of safety wire pliers I have a pair like that out in my garage roll around
Yep, aviation safety wire pliers.
Lock them onto the wire and pull the knob out and the spiral rod it's attached to twists the whole thing.
Yes sir! A-6 Intruder to be exact. Wheel lugs in particular. Then on semi's and motorcycles.
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Safetying pliers is correct!
The bolt head or nut is drilled for the safety wire, the silver slide portion locks them closed.
You twist the wire by pulling the knob in the center. Then onto the next fastener in a pattern to keep them from loosening.
(https://www.flight-mechanic.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/5-71.gif)
When you are done there is a cutter for the excess wire.
On the flight line those bits of wire are a bad thing (F.O.D. Foreign Object / Debris) to let fly aimlessly away.
The keep them from being lost we filled the cutter portion with silicon and let it cure, then carefully sliced it with a razor blade.
That held the trimmings when "cut". ;)
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Since some of you (Crew Dogs) got that one.... Who know what this is for?
It's nickname is a "Snoopy" because of it's head shape.
It works on "small and large" is why the two different size radius at his head but there is a third at the base of the handle if leverage isn't needed.
(https://i.imgur.com/ZaHCDLE.jpg)
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For Duzs 1/4 turn fastners.
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YEPPER!
That didn't take as long as I thought!
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Sailors didn't need no special Dzus tool, speed handle worked just fine. 🤣😂
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I just finished rehabbing/ tuning this old 2oz ball pen for my airgun kit.
Being a Champion De'arment it could be considered an addition to the Channellock arsenal too which is a bonus.
(https://i.postimg.cc/BZjWxVfF/20210519-101654.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/V5PHw46s)
(https://i.postimg.cc/8530KTg6/20210519-101713.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qhswgVRJ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/gcC73cD9/20210519-101719.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w3kFppZF)
Polished faces are definitely a must when repairing screw heads that someone damaged with the wrong screwdriver.
Most might just go straight to removing material, but you'd be surprised how easy it is to put that material back in it's place.
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I used tie wire pliers on VERY LARGE diesel engines in field service. Look up Cooper-Bessemer. Also used them to tie seed bags shut as a kid working for a seed company. I have never worked on a plane.
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I used tie wire pliers on VERY LARGE diesel engines in field service. Look up Cooper-Bessemer. Also used them to tie seed bags shut as a kid working for a seed company. I have never worked on a plane.
Oh I completely understand that Chris.
I was issued mine in the USAF 35 years ago... 20 years ago I was a "Newbie" Industrial Maintenance Supervisor on 3rd shift and we had a large hydraulic pump failure on a 4,000 ton press.
My Senior Maintenance Techs were perplexed with the "twisted wires". I showed them what to do by hand.... FAIL!
They had the wire too loose or worse yet, the wrong direction and the fastener could loosen.
At 02:00 went I went home and grabbed my Safetying pliers and immediately called a training session. I educated my "New-2-Me " crew of 6 Men (All senior to me in the company) on proper Safetying procedure and the purpose.
I gained some respect from them all that night.
I doubt they remember it today, but I do! ;D
And there is nothing that says "attention to detail" as much a drilled and Safetyed fasteners on the brakes of a motorcycle rebuild.
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I like multitools as well, but I like the more compact simpler models and prefer the classic rectangular format.
I love the original PST and my trusty Fuse that's about worn out at this point.
I was ready to completely give up on leatherman since it's been almost 15 years now since they've done anything I was even remotely interested in going way too modern and gimmicky with everything, but they recently released the new Bond model and I couldn't order one fast enough.
It's kind of a modern PST but with a lot more engineering into it than you might realize on first glance.
I just got mine in the mail a few minutes ago ago and am really impressed.
(https://i.postimg.cc/HsKkmgWB/20210519-133443.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rK1kG7rr)
It has the same tool configuration as the PST, but most of leaghermans implements were updated and improved about 20 years ago now at this point so everything really is better.
A hard wire cutter in the pliers, wire stripper added to the improved can opener, longer much sharper and usable awl, sturdier #2 Phillips that can accept an optional bit adapter.
And in this leatherman bond they gave it a much thinner wider blade that should cut better, though I don't carry a multitool as a pocket knife so It won't see much use.
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Oh darn David... How could I forget my Leatherman!
I wear it every day just like my "phone, wallet, keys".
For my line of work and camping... I prefer the "wave"!
In 20 years it's been replaced once under lifetime warranty once due to my misuse... And I was honest, just wanted replacement parts... but they stood behind it none the less
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Yep, gotta have a multitool... A Leatherman Super Tool 300 rides on my belt daily, along with an LED Mini-Maglite (soon to be replaced with a Fenix PD32 v2); feel undressed without them...
I like gadgets.... :D
Jesse
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Yep, gotta have a multitool... A Leatherman Super Tool 300 rides on my belt daily, along with an LED Mini-Maglite (soon to be replaced with a Fenix PD32 v2); feel undressed without them...
I like gadgets.... :D
Jesse
I carry a very nice little Sebertool m4 in my pocket at all times , and usually just at work for the full sized multitool these days because I have so many tools around that a full sized model isn't that necessary at home.
I loved the squirt PS4 before I got the much sturdier Sebertool m4 ( they were made in San Diego, but got bought out and went Chinese about 15 years ago )
I bought my dad an ST300 for Christmas a few year's ago and he loves it, I was impressed but it's just too much multitool for my taste.
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I have the husby's old Leatherman tools from when they were made in Oregon(?). He really liked that era of Leatherman products, and bought them for several friends and family.
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I bought my dad an ST300 for Christmas a few year's ago and he loves it, I was impressed but it's just too much multitool for my taste.
It is a big one, no doubt about that, LOL... Never heard of Sebertool; will have to check them out for the heck of it. :D
Jesse
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I have the husby's old Leatherman tools from when they were made in Oregon(?). He really liked that era of Leatherman products, and bought them for several friends and family.
They still are made in Oregon.
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The Sebertool M4 was actually included in USN SEAL S.E.R.E survival kits before IDL Tools moved production to China, now they issue the Leatherman squirt PS4 in SEAL kits as well as survival kits for various other branches of the military.
(https://i.postimg.cc/d0TyhSMw/20210519-144831.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yJsd5jYb)
They tend to sell for a bit too much on EBAY these days ($50+ ), but you can get a Craftsman branded version as well as from Eddie Bauer.
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I expected small, but not quite that small!
Looks handy though... 8)
Here's one of my prize possessions; made it while I worked the toolroom at a fab shop...
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=7916)
Needs a proper scriber; though... Haven't gotten around to making one yet; have the O1 drill rod for it but just no round-tuit...
Jesse
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I have the husby's old Leatherman tools from when they were made in Oregon(?). He really liked that era of Leatherman products, and bought them for several friends and family.
They still are made in Oregon.
Great! I had no idea....was thinking their manufacturing had been shipped overseas.
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I have the husby's old Leatherman tools from when they were made in Oregon(?). He really liked that era of Leatherman products, and bought them for several friends and family.
They still are made in Oregon.
Great! I had no idea....was thinking their manufacturing had been shipped overseas.
I think they may have the pliers jaws rough forged in Mexico, but they're definitely finish ground here and everything else is done in house.
At least they are 100% made on the contonent of north America .
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With a excellent warranty... See my post above. ;)
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I almost posted earlier about my leatherman tools.
I never leave home without it for work and have another in the Jeep. My LM wave is for the Jeep and my goto work leatherman is the Skeletool CX with assorted bits and extension. I can do most of my light work with it. If I’m removing a lot of screws or fasteners I bust out the cordless Milwaukee screw driver and bits.
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PS, almost every time I’m in Portland OR I stop by the Leatherman store and LEDLENSER store to check out the latest flashlights, LM multitools and knifes
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Are we slowing down on this thread. We haven't talked about planes yet.
...
You mean like these?
My set is out in the shop "somewhere" ... too dark to find them now. ::)
(https://content.speedwaymotors.com/ProductImages/91089405_L1600_16f19c5b-bd6e-4fa4-a7a8-ae90d009e828.jpg)
Yep got those years ago to tie dirt bike spokes at the cross point so they will not loosen up or brake during hard riding and long jump landings. Oh and for securing those fasteners you must not allow to come loose per racing sanction rules. Another 50 plus year old tool.
BD
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Since some of you (Crew Dogs) got that one.... Who know what this is for?
It's nickname is a "Snoopy" because of it's head shape.
It works on "small and large" is why the two different size radius at his head but there is a third at the base of the handle if leverage isn't needed.
(https://i.imgur.com/ZaHCDLE.jpg)
Yep Dzus fastener tool but that's what I thought the quarter was minted for by our giving govt. ;D ;D ;). At least that's what I always used to remove and install them with, always had a quarter in my pocket. ;D ;D
BD
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Still got my original Leatherman from sometime in the late 70s or early 80s I believe and its still just as tight jointed and looks new as the day I bought it. Never seen the need to buy a new one since mine is now where near being worn out yet and it also rides on my belt everyday. Now the leather pouch is showing some age but not down or out yet.
BD
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Well. I have multiple 4.5 inch grinders for different jobs.
However today I will warn you about them! And probably perpetuate the rumor I'm accident prone!
Doing some demo work I had a grinder with a metal cut off wheel bind.
It proceeded to destroy itself in a most amazing way!
It took the grinder out of my hands, shot back and down hitting my ladder.
It then decided to rocket upwards! I'd think it would have landed on the roof had my head not been in the path of upward travel.
Now! I always wear PPE! So. A cut into my hard hat's brim kind of deflected the path of travel into a downward line.
Bad part of that was my face resides just under that brim!
A slightly fractured nose, a cute gash above the safety glasses, which suffered gashes, and the normal curse words from me and it was over in less then a second.
So for any tool freaks? PPE!!!! There's a reason for it!
I could have lost an eye or worse!
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Well. I have multiple 4.5 inch grinders for different jobs.
However today I will warn you about them! And probably perpetuate the rumor I'm accident prone!
Doing some demo work I had a grinder with a metal cut off wheel bind.
It proceeded to destroy itself in a most amazing way!
It took the grinder out of my hands, shot back and down hitting my ladder.
It then decided to rocket upwards! I'd think it would have landed on the roof had my head not been in the path of upward travel.
Now! I always wear PPE! So. A cut into my hard hat's brim kind of deflected the path of travel into a downward line.
Bad part of that was my face resides just under that brim!
A slightly fractured nose, a cute gash above the safety glasses, which suffered gashes, and the normal curse words from me and it was over in less then a second.
So for any tool freaks? PPE!!!! There's a reason for it!
I could have lost an eye or worse!
Wow! When cutoffs have failed on me, the wheel just shatters. Sorry to hear of your injury but kudos on the PPE!
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I was doing a test cut on some stressed C-channel.
Just as I was going to stop the channel twisted and grabbed the wheel.
That caused the first time I've ever had one kick back that way! And I've done this for years!
Tomorrow my Hot Work Guy comes in to burn this stuff out!
And I always use PPE and do not allow any worker to work with out it!
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Privateer, had a similar incident happen to me years ago with a pre-OSHA 7 or 9" angle grinder, don't remember and don't want to. Sucker jammed in a timber I was shaping and then jumped several feet in the air. Pretty much missed me going up and back down. Only got a few minor scratches but caused me to quit for the day and review my tool choice and safety procedures.
Stay safe.
:)
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Dang Jeff!
So glad you are ok.
Google images "cut off wheel in the cheek". One of those pics was one of my past employees
While he had doned his safety glasses he was not wearing a face shield... and the cut-off wheel broke.
::)
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Well. I have multiple 4.5 inch grinders for different jobs.
However today I will warn you about them! And probably perpetuate the rumor I'm accident prone!
Doing some demo work I had a grinder with a metal cut off wheel bind.
It proceeded to destroy itself in a most amazing way!
It took the grinder out of my hands, shot back and down hitting my ladder.
It then decided to rocket upwards! I'd think it would have landed on the roof had my head not been in the path of upward travel.
Now! I always wear PPE! So. A cut into my hard hat's brim kind of deflected the path of travel into a downward line.
Bad part of that was my face resides just under that brim!
A slightly fractured nose, a cute gash above the safety glasses, which suffered gashes, and the normal curse words from me and it was over in less then a second.
So for any tool freaks? PPE!!!! There's a reason for it!
I could have lost an eye or worse!
One of the best posts yet ^^^
Jesse
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Cutting a T post when I got some kickback, brand new Flannel and long sleeve T-shirt tangled the cutoff disk up saving me from a trip to the ER.
(https://i.postimg.cc/B6LnqsQC/IMG-20190527-124019272.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Hcmg2qMJ)
I learned a valuable lesson and all it cost me is a couple of shirts.
I have saved both with plans to frame it and hang it in the garage as a safety reminder but just never got around to it yet.
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Running an angle grinder with a flat twisted wire-wire wheel in the morning. At the end of the day while washing up,... I felt a slight snag at the back of my hand. A piece of wire. I pull,.. and pull,... and pull,... and it was a piece of twisted wire that was 1 1/2" long. Had been there all day. Just under the skin the whole way.
Cut off wheels?,........... yup,... respect them and know what RPM they are rated for. Oh yea,... maybe avoid putting them on a hard bind.
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Makes me just want to use a torch to cut metal hearing all those stories. I just bought new metal cutting wheels recently too. I'll wear the face shield and long sleeves for sure.
About tool boxes mentioned a couple pages back I got a free one similar to below when I saw it sitting on top of a full dumpster pile so I didn't even have to get into the dumpster to grab it. Couldn't believe someone tossed it as there is nothing wrong with it. 25yrs later it still looks near new. It stores a wrench set with metrics sorted by size on the top and standards sorted on the bottom.
(https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fmobileimages.lowes.com%2Fproduct%2Fconverted%2F473839%2F4738394.jpg&f=1&nofb=1)
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Makes me just want to use a torch to cut metal hearing all those stories. I just bought new metal cutting wheels recently too. I'll wear the face shield and long sleeves for sure.
About tool boxes mentioned a couple pages back I got a free one similar to below when I saw it sitting on top of a full dumpster pile so I didn't even have to get into the dumpster to grab it. Couldn't believe someone tossed it as there is nothing wrong with it. 25yrs later it still looks near new. It stores a wrench set with metrics sorted by size on the top and standards sorted on the bottom.
(https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fmobileimages.lowes.com%2Fproduct%2Fconverted%2F473839%2F4738394.jpg&f=1&nofb=1)
That flat handle design for the tray may not be as rigid / sturdy, but it's lower profile and allows more access and space inside the tray for sure.
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Was working with a modified grinder that was used to deburr the inside of pipes that were drilled like a giant gas grill. Well lucky for me I was wearing all my PPE though had oil soaked gloves on because when it caught it spun in my hands and kept spinning after I managed to let go. It was a total bad set up to begin with and probably would have broken bones had I not a loose and oiled grip on it. It had a 3 foot piece of all thread holding a grinding stone the stone exploded at some point and the all thread had to be cut out of the pipe. Also the day I quit using the lock on feature of any grinder unless I cannot get the job done with out it.
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DANG! Y'all sure have had some awful issues with angle grinders! ::)
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Makes me just want to use a torch to cut metal hearing all those stories. I just bought new metal cutting wheels recently too. I'll wear the face shield and long sleeves for sure.
About tool boxes mentioned a couple pages back I got a free one similar to below when I saw it sitting on top of a full dumpster pile so I didn't even have to get into the dumpster to grab it. Couldn't believe someone tossed it as there is nothing wrong with it. 25yrs later it still looks near new. It stores a wrench set with metrics sorted by size on the top and standards sorted on the bottom.
Could'a been me. I really dont care for toolboxes like that, I use rolling bags or shoulder bags. 8)
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I agree with use of all necessary PPE gear as well but the very most important PPE we all have and should use 100% of the time is between our ears. If it does not seem safe to do or has the possibility to end badly then it most likely should be avoided at all cost.
Believe me as a mechanic for 45 plus years I have had my share of brain fade resulting in pain and suffering. But luckily still have all 10 digits albeit with a few more scars and nicks than I came with from the factory. One motto I live and work by is slow is fast and if you don't have the time to do it right the first time where will you find the time to do it right the second time.
Grinders of any type are inherently dangerous and deserve the utmost respect.
BD
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https://youtu.be/IQ2ChdkijYA
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I agree with use of all necessary PPE gear as well but the very most important PPE we all have and should use 100% of the time is between our ears. If it does not seem safe to do or has the possibility to end badly then it most likely should be avoided at all cost.
And that is exactly why I brought in my most trusted Iron Worker.
Guy is crazy good at his job! So why risk mostly unskilled workers when I can bring a true Professional at his trade?
In my line of work? He is a Tool.
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One of my FAV garage tools, the 2 wheel lift! ;D
Such a time saver for me. Takes seconds to get the mowers (3) off the ground for blade changes/sharpening and spindle replacements (its hard on mowers in rock and cow land). :o
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I have had a couple of mishaps. Just a couple of reshaped fingers. Not too serious as I still have them all in working order. Could have been brain fade as buldawg76 says. I say it was impatience, lapse of attention or even fatigue. It took a long time to accept the consequences of fatigue. Long hours do matter.
I am still on the tools in a pottering sort of way, mostly woodworking but a little very simple metal work. Just made special wood lathe tool rest to get the rest close to the working face inside a 4 inch deep bowl. All bolted and revitted . There you go another brain fade. Forgot how to spell rivet. I haven't got a welder and with bolts I can make a different shaped rest to go on the holder/post for a different job.
I am still going to talk about planes one day. Life would be pretty dull without tools.
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I agree with use of all necessary PPE gear as well but the very most important PPE we all have and should use 100% of the time is between our ears. If it does not seem safe to do or has the possibility to end badly then it most likely should be avoided at all cost.
And that is exactly why I brought in my most trusted Iron Worker.
Guy is crazy good at his job! So why risk mostly unskilled workers when I can bring a true Professional at his trade?
In my line of work? He is a Tool.
Yep when in doubt get qualified help. ;D ;D
BD
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Looking hard at Plasma cutters right now.
Being I need it for job sites? I need one that is rated to run off a generator at times.
That is not something Harbor Freight has.
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Looking hard at Plasma cutters right now.
Being I need it for job sites? I need one that is rated to run off a generator at times.
That is not something Harbor Freight has.
Plasma cutters are awesome 👌.
You also need regulated shop air.
You can even get CNC CONTROLLED plasma cutters!
Hunter
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About grinder dangers this video is appropriate. Don't worry it's comedic and only a few seconds. No blood or injury but he knows his way is not the safest way to use it hence his funny "safety first" line. https://www.sendspace.com/file/r7ta9v (https://www.sendspace.com/file/r7ta9v)
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It's Ryobi days at HD, so I got the Hah battery combo that I needed and the jigsaw was free.
(https://i.postimg.cc/HWhF7VL1/20210526-141953.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Z06wGY3w)
Any tool up to a $75 value is available , but I have everything else I really need and the jigsaw was the only thing I thought might interest me.
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Wow David....great deal!
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Got this neat center finder for my drill press from Micro Mark. It really comes in handy to locate the top dead center for sights on barrels or any time you need to drill in round stock mounted in a drill press vise. (http://)
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What a GREAT tool, Van!
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that is a definite solution to a PITA task
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Got this neat center finder for my drill press from Micro Mark. It really comes in handy to locate the top dead center for sights on barrels or any time you need to drill in round stock mounted in a drill press vise. (http://)
Got a link.
BD
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That is friggin COOL!
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The web site for the drill press center finders is (micromark.com). Here is a screen shot of the two sizes with part # and price. If you like small precision tools this is a great place to browse or order the catalog. Wish I could post the link but the last time Microsoft Edge updated copy and paste links stopped working for me. Guess I will have to ask my wife or daughter to show me how. I have a huge wish list on this site. (http://)
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Wish I could post the link but the last time Microsoft Edge updated copy and paste links stopped working for me.
IMHO...THAT is your problem.
I use/ prefer Google Chrome. ;)
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Another tool I LOVE is my Lasers! Case in point from yesterday....
We were installing LVT in a bowling alley. The underlings I was sent to over see were confused on how to get a straight line from different walls.
They measured and snapped a line. I told them it was off. They argued. I broke out the laser and shot it down the installed LVT already done.
They were an inch off! They argued with me. I told them lasers don't bend, snap the line on MY MARKS!
Guess who was right.
;D
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The web site for the drill press center finders is (micromark.com). Here is a screen shot of the two sizes with part # and price. If you like small precision tools this is a great place to browse or order the catalog. Wish I could post the link but the last time Microsoft Edge updated copy and paste links stopped working for me. Guess I will have to ask my wife or daughter to show me how. I have a huge wish list on this site. (http://)
Thanks I can search micromark.
No google spy network in my life ever, big brother on steroids IMO. I have removed all google programs from my PCs, phones or any other device connect to the internet. Will sell you out for bread crumbs.
duckduckgo only in this home.
BD
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There was an article on YouTube about how to make one of those centre finders. Must get on to it one day.
Might have to shift my workshop in the next month. Any volunteers to help. Everything is too good to throw out.
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There was an article on YouTube about how to make one of those centre finders. Must get on to it one day.
Might have to shift my workshop in the next month. Any volunteers to help. Everything is too good to throw out.
Isn't THAT the truth! Lol :D
In downsizing here, I am finding it very difficult to let go of good stuff!
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Worse than deciding to let good stuff go is when you finally reach the decision to let it go and nobody wants it even if all you want is to get it out of the house. We have a pretty oak china closet that looks like new with not even a phone call e have put it on eBay for $100 two months ago When the new table and chairs came we put the matching solid oak table and chairs outside on the front lawn with a "Take it free" signs on the Table and chairs they were scooped up in less than an hour ::) I guess things are really tough for a lot of people right now even if wall street is doing great main street obviously isn't
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Thought I would mention another good drill press tool. I do a lot of drilling and threading so this is a big help getting straight threads cut. It's a spring loaded tap guide. In the press the spring inside it keeps downward pressure on the tap as you turn the handle. Some of my friends say they always wondered what the little hole on top of a tap wrench was for. It's what the point on the guide fits in to hold it while turning. (http://)
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Thought I would mention another good drill press tool. I do a lot of drilling and threading so this is a big help getting straight threads cut. It's a spring loaded tap guide. In the press the spring inside it keeps downward pressure on the tap as you turn the handle. Some of my friends say they always wondered what the little hole on top of a tap wrench was for. It's what the point on the guide fits in to hold it while turning.
That's a good one! :D
May have to try to make my own version of that; since chasing the tap down while turning the spindle by hand really could use three hands....
Jesse
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HART brand tools...
For the past 1-2 years, our regional WM stores have been carrying a line of tools by the name HART.
Anyone here tried them? What do you think?
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For power tools I'm going all in with cordless and I've switched from Dewalt to Milwaukee. Really good stuff in my opinion. Right now I'm eyeballing their table saw and mitre box. I guess my boys will get all of my corded stuff.
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HART brand tools...
For the past 1-2 years, our regional WM stores have been carrying a line of tools by the name HART.
Anyone here tried them? What do you think?
I saw that the other day. No doubt multi branded/colored Chinese stuff. I did mention getting a cordless Walmart Hyper Tough tri-kit awhile back. I abused the heck out of the sawzall. All good.
Like many things these days,.... will it even be there 6 months or a year from now? Batteries?
I like buying American,...if I can. Not rich. +1 for Makita stuff in my opinion.
Also,... you do have to ask,.... who pays for that Dewalt Indy car,.... or a Progressive stadium,.. etc., etc., etc.?
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I love buying American as well....it's just very difficult to find, and oftentimes prohibitively expensive. I used to work with a young man who was into the buy American idea, and when he started looking at power tools, such a table saws and similar, the prices were in the thousands....not hundreds.
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HART brand tools...
For the past 1-2 years, our regional WM stores have been carrying a line of tools by the name HART.
Anyone here tried them? What do you think?
Well for starters Hart used to be the #1 name in California pattern framing hammers, and their California special was once king for farmers and deck builders in my area.
My first hammer as a kid was an old 25oz California special my dad gave me, and my uncle used to swear by 'em.
The name holds a special spot for me so I will never buy a modern Hart branded tool regardless, but I have less personal reasons not to like them as well.
Heres what I know about the current use of this once great company.
A Chinese company purchased the name, struck a deal with Walmart, and Walmart has now replaced every American made tool they used to carry with Hart branded Chinese knockoffs.
The Wilde made handled prybars are I'm sure just getting sold till they're gone.
Dasco pro pry bars, Dasco pro punches , Vaughan hammers, Channellock pliers, you name it.
Any American made tools Walmart always had a good deal on are now gone in favor of Chinese junk of about the same pricetag, more in a few cases because their version is fancier looking.
There are a few levels and squares that are rebranded Empire, but everything else is a Chinese knockoff because they're selling the same types of tool in the exact set as the American tools they replaced.
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Wow David...i had no idea! Thanks for the info!
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Another American-made product that died years ago to have the name bought and an inferior knock-off that arrives on our shores on container ships. There was a foundry in Brooklyn NY Geribaldi they manufactured cast iron baseboard for steam heat. This was a quality product and there is still a demand for cast iron baseboard in residential and commerical space heating. The current Product is a cheaplt made knock off that sells a poorly made inferior product that is prone to stress cracks. The molds were sold and sent to China
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Thought I would mention another good drill press tool. I do a lot of drilling and threading so this is a big help getting straight threads cut. It's a spring loaded tap guide. In the press the spring inside it keeps downward pressure on the tap as you turn the handle. Some of my friends say they always wondered what the little hole on top of a tap wrench was for. It's what the point on the guide fits in to hold it while turning. (http://)
A center punch or any pointed rod will work as a guide for cutting straight threads in drill press like pictured tool you just have to keep slight downward pressure on tap chuck while tapping threads. Spring loaded one is a nice touch for sure.
BD
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I agree that battery tools are very good and they have their place in any workshop or building site. I only have a battery drill, 18 volt. I consider there is a place for 240 volt or in the USA 110 or whatever you have. The 240 volt has some grunt. Especially my 1/2 inch Desoutter drill. Not made anymore but just a power house. Now back to battery power. 240 volt has a constant power scource and it remains so for the life of the tool. Battery powered tools have say a four or three year warranty on the tool. The warranty on the battery is only one year and that is how long they are designed to last. Then you have to replace batteries. The cost of a new or refurbishing of the old one makes you say, "Ah well, down time at al and I may as well buy a new drill.
Marketeering rip off or retail rip off. Hope it is not tghe same in the USA.
On top of that the battery powered De Walt saw I had was fine for small timbers but just not enough grunt for wet Tanalised big stuff or even dry.
I just finished this after being called away for dinner so I have lost the plot. Unsurprising.
PS. For woodworking I like hand tools. They are less dangerous, less messy because they do not blow dust and shavings about - less noisy. They are resharpenable rather than replaceable. Cheaper and long lasting. Power tools are indispensable because they are quicker and better in some circumstances.
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I have worn out several battery powered drills over the years and cannot imagine not having one in my work tool kit. I just finished a 16 x 20 deck over my old cement patio and the only power tools that needed were my table saw for ripping a couple deck planks for the last plank in 2 end planks and my miter saw for cutting the 2 x 6 wood planks used for the framing. My battery drill/driver was used for all fasteners and cement anchors. the finished deck took ~4 1/2 days start to finish. Without the battery drill, I would have been slinging around a heavy 120vac drill with an extension cord to trip over and accidentally unplug. The battery powered drill and spare battery are much more convenient and comfortable to work with.
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For those not in the know,... an impact will drive deck screws 1000% than a drill. It even works with Phillips bits, but star bits/screws are better. Once you see the difference, you will be amazed. Star screws tend to be more expensive.
If I were deck building,... I would only use an impact (Not the same as a drill. No traditional drill chuck.)
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Battery powered tools have say a four or three year warranty on the tool. The warranty on the battery is only one year and that is how long they are designed to last. Then you have to replace batteries. The cost of a new or refurbishing of the old one makes you say, "Ah well, down time at al and I may as well buy a new drill.
Marketeering rip off or retail rip off. Hope it is not tghe same in the USA.
I LOVE my battery drills!
I have a 18V DeWalt that is about 16 or so years ago that I have bought one new battery for. (You can find much better deals on batteries, online, rather than in the building supply stores.
Also, I was in Wal-Mart about 15 yrs ago, and saw a cheapie Skil brand battery drill for 60 dollars plus change. That drill surprised me. It still works just fine on the original battery. (Also 18 V)
I have a couple of electric DeWalt drills too, and they have been tough as well, and all they have needed was cord replacement.
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Battery powered tools have say a four or three year warranty on the tool. The warranty on the battery is only one year and that is how long they are designed to last. Then you have to replace batteries. The cost of a new or refurbishing of the old one makes you say, "Ah well, down time at al and I may as well buy a new drill.
Marketeering rip off or retail rip off. Hope it is not tghe same in the USA.
I LOVE my battery drills!
I have a 18V DeWalt that is about 16 or so years ago that I have bought one new battery for. (You can find much better deals on batteries, online, rather than in the building supply stores.
Also, I was in Wal-Mart about 15 yrs ago, and saw a cheapie Skil brand battery drill for 60 dollars plus change. That drill surprised me. It still works just fine on the original battery. (Also 18 V)
I have a couple of electric DeWalt drills too, and they have been tough as well, and all they have needed was cord replacement.
I had a beast of an old 18v mikita that was 20 years old when the switch finally gave out on me, and the original Japanese nimh battery was still good but the red Mexican made spare had long since died.
I agree that most aren't built to last that long, but most companies also change formats every few years.
Ryobi has had the same format with their one+ line for over 20 years, so as long as the tool is still good you can get new batteries.
The batteries aren't cheap, but you wait till ryobi days and you can usually get a good deal on a battery combo.
Of course technology in the tool itself may be better, so one may have wanted to upgrade anyways even if their old stuff still worked.
Corded power tools certainly do last much longer, my block body Craftsman bench grinder was made in 1958 and has only had a cord replacement.
It's getting to the point where it'll really need a service , but I wouldn't be surprised if it has another 50 years in it after that.
Those old motors just don't quit.
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For those not in the know,... an impact will drive deck screws 1000% than a drill. It even works with Phillips bits, but star bits/screws are better. Once you see the difference, you will be amazed. Star screws tend to be more expensive.
If I were deck building,... I would only use an impact (Not the same as a drill. No traditional drill chuck.)
My drill has the impact feature and when driving the heavy 4 1/2 timber screws right in. These star head drive screws are 3/8" shaft and they zip right in
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The stand up deck screw drivers with the automatic screw feed are amazing. I would check into renting one if I ever build a deck again. I watched two guys building one for a neighbor at warp speed it seemed. They have stand up attachments for your hand drill now too but I don't know how good they are.
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I have the Makita black, BL series, brushless, drill and driver set. They are tiny in comparison but will out torque brushed drills/drivers.
I'd never go back to my brace for drilling holes.
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For those not in the know,... an impact will drive deck screws 1000% than a drill. It even works with Phillips bits, but star bits/screws are better. Once you see the difference, you will be amazed. Star screws tend to be more expensive.
If I were deck building,... I would only use an impact (Not the same as a drill. No traditional drill chuck.)
My drill has the impact feature and when driving the heavy 4 1/2 timber screws right in. These star head drive screws are 3/8" shaft and they zip right in
They're great as long as you get good quality Torx bits.
I have found that with cheap ones the small teeth tend to be less durable than the corners of a Robertson bit.
The American made Apex bits are great.
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This Is after taking care of the severe mushrooming on the poll, but I just received this extremely cool 19th century hatchet head.
(https://i.postimg.cc/HxFjtmXj/20210529-181200.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PpzttB6k)
It was hand forged in 1862 by a man named Jonathan Yerkes which was an early partner of Fayette R Plumb who would later form the Plumb tool company who I'm sure many of you are familiar with.
They were later bought by cooper tool who I believe became part of Apex , and their name is still found on hammer heads today but the tools have been imported since probably sometime in the 90's.
There's only reference to this stamp being used on hammer heads, so it may be pretty darn rare.
I sure am happy to have it.
(https://i.postimg.cc/D0KnZw1Q/20210529-165439.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2bTP9mc3)
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Wow David! So cool! What a find!
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Wow David! So cool! What a find!
I am very glad to have such a piece of history, I just hope I can do it justice when I comes to making a handle in style seen in the period.
I'll be taking some liberties with it though, just whichever common style I find compliments the head best.
I bought it off a member of a tool related forum who does the whole picker Ebay selling thing and posts pictures the various lots they scrounge up.
I knew nothing about it other than that it was a cool pattern you don't see a lot.
The ears sticking down are called lugs and in the 20th century hatchets didn't usually have them unless they were woodshop or trade specific tool with a hammer head. Like a shingle hatchet...ect.
I knew it could be fairly old so when I was told $35 shipped I figured that's not too much if it's more modern and I'm not stealing it if it proves pretty old.
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What do you mean, "ears sticking down"?
I don't understand.
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What do you mean, "ears sticking down"?
I don't understand.
The pointed areas sticking down from the head.
They are essentially extensions to the eye so theres more steel around the hande.
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Oh! Okay....thank you!
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Too cool! :D
To think you are holding a piece of steel that was forged almost 160 years ago... 8)
Jesse
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Is that a civil war artifact?
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I have a Plumb Hatchet that was U.S. Govt. Issue and dated 1942. ( WWII maybe )
I have a Half Hatchet from the 1950's
Best Wishes - Tom
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I have a Plumb Hatchet that was U.S. Govt. Issue and dated 1942. ( WWII maybe )
I have a Half Hatchet from the 1950's
Best Wishes - Tom
Hey there Tom :D.
Your Plumb Hatchet is real nice, it reminds me of the axe I inherited from my grand-father, an Iltis OxHead. I think he bought it in the sixties, and made the maple handle in the seventies. He used it for fine wood work, and kept the edge razor sharp. I'm so glad I saved this precious family heirloom!
Cheers and stay safe ;),
Francois
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Is that a civil war artifact?
Of the era, but no I don't think so.
W.M Beatty had contracts to produce a great number of axes ( some belt axes very close to this ) but I think J.Yerkes was a bit small of an outfit for that.
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I have a Plumb Hatchet that was U.S. Govt. Issue and dated 1942. ( WWII maybe )
I have a Half Hatchet from the 1950's
Best Wishes - Tom
Definitely WW2.
I think most were Plumb and Mann.
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Too cool! :D
To think you are holding a piece of steel that was forged almost 160 years ago... 8)
Jesse
1 piece of steel for the bit, a pie e of wrought iron for the eye, and apparently another " dissimilar " metal for the poll ( that's the backside ) is what I've been told but I'm not 100% sure what exactly that is.
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I was given an axe about a year ago by someone who rescued it from a skip. It is 9 inches across the face and beveled only on one side. No date but it is marked RobtSorby. Sheffield Warranted caste steel. I think Sorby is an English tool manufacturer. I put a handle in it made out of pinus radiata so it is not a robust handle and I have never used it. I have seen old photos dating back to the late 1800s early 1900s of workmen with them working on the New Zealand sailing scows. The photos show they had relatively short handles. The workers not actually working. More posing for the camera. Some of the timbers they used to build those scows were massive and hewn from the log.
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I was given an axe about a year ago by someone who rescued it from a skip. It is 9 inches across the face and beveled only on one side. No date but it is marked RobtSorby. Sheffield Warranted caste steel. I think Sorby is an English tool manufacturer. I put a handle in it made out of pinus radiata so it is not a robust handle and I have never used it. I have seen old photos dating back to the late 1800s early 1900s of workmen with them working on the New Zealand sailing scows. The photos show they had relatively short handles. The workers not actually working. More posing for the camera. Some of the timbers they used to build those scows were massive and hewn from the log.
Sounds like a single bevel broad axe to me, would have a handle that curves to the side.
Used for hawing hand cut beams flat.
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This thread has been a very interesting read and at times quite educational let's keep it going.
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Good morning Bantam5s. It certainly makes sense to have a handle curving away from the head. You couldn't do that with radiata timber. I suppose in the old days an axeman could wander into the bush and find a nice limb to suit his purpose.
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This thread has been a very interesting read and at times quite educational let's keep it going.
Here, here. Now isn't that British.
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Good morning Bantam5s. It certainly makes sense to have a handle curving away from the head. You couldn't do that with radiata timber. I suppose in the old days an axeman could wander into the bush and find a nice limb to suit his purpose.
If I'm not mistaken Radiata is a form of pine?
Definitely not suitable for tool handles.
Limbs are no good either but I do not know the technical reasons why.
Being English your axes handle would have been made of white ash, and these curved hewing axe handles are traditionally carved and steam bent.
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I've seen people using these square head bits to drive screws into boards real good preventing slipping/stripping as happens with Phillips head screws sometimes. I don't know if square head screws are any more expensive than Phillips though.
(https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fae01.alicdn.com%2Fkf%2FHTB1dDySOFXXXXaBXFXXq6xXFXXXM%2F3pcs-50mm-1-4-Inch-Hex-Square-Bits-Square-Head-Screwdriver-Bits-S2-Alloy-Steel-Magnetic.jpg_640x640.jpg&f=1&nofb=1)
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I've seen people using these square head bits to drive screws into boards real good preventing slipping/stripping as happens with Phillips head screws sometimes. I don't know if square head screws are any more expensive than Phillips though.
(https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fae01.alicdn.com%2Fkf%2FHTB1dDySOFXXXXaBXFXXq6xXFXXXM%2F3pcs-50mm-1-4-Inch-Hex-Square-Bits-Square-Head-Screwdriver-Bits-S2-Alloy-Steel-Magnetic.jpg_640x640.jpg&f=1&nofb=1)
No, Robertson bits are no more expensive than philips.
I don't think any drive style is inherently more expensive to manufacture than another, it's the steel quality and manufacturing tolerances that make the difference.
It cost more to use a good steel and be picky about tolerances.
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I've seen people using these square head bits to drive screws into boards real good preventing slipping/stripping as happens with Phillips head screws sometimes. I don't know if square head screws are any more expensive than Phillips though.
(https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fae01.alicdn.com%2Fkf%2FHTB1dDySOFXXXXaBXFXXq6xXFXXXM%2F3pcs-50mm-1-4-Inch-Hex-Square-Bits-Square-Head-Screwdriver-Bits-S2-Alloy-Steel-Magnetic.jpg_640x640.jpg&f=1&nofb=1)
My favorites!
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I've seen people using these square head bits to drive screws into boards real good preventing slipping/stripping as happens with Phillips head screws sometimes. I don't know if square head screws are any more expensive than Phillips though.
(https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fae01.alicdn.com%2Fkf%2FHTB1dDySOFXXXXaBXFXXq6xXFXXXM%2F3pcs-50mm-1-4-Inch-Hex-Square-Bits-Square-Head-Screwdriver-Bits-S2-Alloy-Steel-Magnetic.jpg_640x640.jpg&f=1&nofb=1)
I use those square tips all the time. They do drive more firmly than a typical Phillips or even Roberts tip as the engagement is more secure.
I generally prefer a Phillips tip (due to convenience of availability and versatile use), but I know how to use them, and how to drive them.
You MUST have CONSTANT pressure along the length of the driver bit, and keep pressing into it until it is seated. The most common problem with stripping the screw head, or the bit itself is that people let off at the last instant, thinking that the screw is going to drive itself. (?)
This can happen with the square drive as well, and for exactly the same reason, although to a lesser extent as the square drive has a more secure engagement.
That being said however, the main culprit is that both the Phillips and the square drives are tapered to allow release of the bit from the screw. It is that taper that allows the "stripping" if one does not keep constant pressure on it.
Consider it as "follow through", just as in shooting. If you anticipate your shot and fall off your sighting, you will miss the shot. If you anticipate the screw seating itself and back off, your bit will spin off of the screw head before the screw is fully seated.
When driving a screw, KEEP PUSHING until well after you've released the drill trigger. When shooting, KEEP SIGHTING until well after you've released the trigger.
For the last 46 years I've been a cabinet maker and field installer. I can tell by the sound if someone is letting the bit head spin and it makes me absolutely crazy. Every time you let that bit spin off before the screw is seated, you are wearing off the tip of the bit, and it will continue to spin off every time thereafter because you have now worn off the tip.
I refuse to let anyone use my driver drills or bits for that very reason. I can get weeks out of the life of one Phillips tip, and I always have a box of 50 on hand to change up when one does go bad on me. They do wear out, just like sandpaper. Use a new one when you need it, but use the one you have properly.
Sorry for the rant, but this is a HUGE stickler for me. I see stripped out screw heads all the time for this very reason, and most often these days, I'm the one who has to go in and re-do what someone else F'ed up, therefore I'm removing the old screws. BTW, if I drive a screw in and have to remove it, I always use a new screw afterward. They're cheap, but wasting time on a messed up one is not.
Back to the main topic about square head tips and screws, yes, squares do drive better, if used properly as I described.
HTH
:D
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Yes, dead right Stinger177.
You must remember the time when screws were all slotted. All you needed was two or three different screwdrivers in your kit. Maybe a Stanley push driver. You drilled holes for screws in those days.
Then along came Phillips heads and then Posidrive (maybe Roberts) then came square drives. all in three sizes. The screw driver kit in the tool box grew considerably. Then the manufacturers got really tricky and made handles green and grey and black so when you dropped them you couldn't find them. Buy another screwdriver.
Then came drill drivers.
And we still haven't talked about planes yet.
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Yes, dead right Stinger177.
You must remember the time when screws were all slotted. All you needed was two or three different screwdrivers in your kit. Maybe a Stanley push driver. You drilled holes for screws in those days.
Then along came Phillips heads and then Posidrive (maybe Roberts) then came square drives. all in three sizes. The screw driver kit in the tool box grew considerably. Then the manufacturers got really tricky and made handles green and grey and black so when you dropped them you couldn't find them. Buy another screwdriver.
Then came drill drivers.
And we still haven't talked about planes yet.
Robertson ( square ) actually came around the same time as Phillips, but because of some deal with Ford Robertson got the short end of the stick.
Btw it took me awhile to realize that crosmans screw of choice in modern clamshell guns is not a philips, but actually a Robertson standard combination and not a philips standard combination like I thought when I first saw it.
I think it's a #2 robertson.
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And we still haven't talked about planes yet.
Yes, the two I recently posted, safetying pliers and the Snoopy, were from my USAF Aircraft mechanic days. ;)
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Square drive are ok but I've switched all my cabinet screws to torx as well as deck screws. Like Dennis, I dont reuse screws and spend s lot of time replacing screws with good ones.
I am ok with Philip's heads as long as they have good heads but will remove and replace any and all slot head screws I find anywhere. Life is too short for that noise.
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Square drive are ok but I've switched all my cabinet screws to torx as well as deck screws. Like Dennis, I dont reuse screws and spend s lot of time replacing screws with good ones.
I am ok with Philip's heads as long as they have good heads but will remove and replace any and all slot head screws I find anywhere. Life is too short for that noise.
Reminds me of my uncle.
He was helping with something and went off on me for using slotted screws complaining about how worthless they were .
He's a plumber, so when I found an antique Treemont stilson pattern pipe wrench I cleaned it up for him and mounted it on a plaque for Christmas, and I made sure to use slotted screws when I made the plaque just to mess with him ;D
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Straight slot, Phillip's, torx, square drive, posidrive, tamper proof are all just a consorted effort by tool and hardware manufacturers to create a need to buy more tools.
Just some new young engineer trying to reinvent the wheel and impress his bosses.
BD
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Straight slot, Phillip's, torx, square drive, posidrive, tamper proof are all just a consorted effort by tool and hardware manufacturers to create a need to buy more tools.
Just some new young engineer trying to reinvent the wheel and impress his bosses.
BD
That may be true, but I, for one, am really glad they did. Square and torx fasteners have made my life easier! Lol :D
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Straight slot, Phillip's, torx, square drive, posidrive, tamper proof are all just a consorted effort by tool and hardware manufacturers to create a need to buy more tools.
Just some new young engineer trying to reinvent the wheel and impress his bosses.
BD
There are actual advantages to the various types.
For example pretty much everything besides slotted screws don't slip off the driver tip.
Torx drivers can be engineered to a precise fit that really holds onto fasteners.
Philips can often be turned without requiring the exact proper size.
Pozidrive I'm not sure about, Unidrive provides more fastener hold than standard philips.
Robertson us one of the best and should have been chosen over Philips.
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Being a mechanic for 45 plus years I have seen the introduction of all those new screw drive head configurations change thru the years and while they do offer some improvements it also requires the necessity to buy new tools to fit the changes. Just not a necessary upgrade IMO. I never had any issue with stripping screw heads when using correct removal procedures.
If it aint broke don't fix it goes along way in my world.
Just my .2 cents from a lifetime of dealing with removing and installing all types of fasteners.
BD
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Being a mechanic for 45 plus years I have seen the introduction of all those new screw drive head configurations change thru the years and while they do offer some improvements it also requires the necessity to buy new tools to fit the changes. Just not a necessary upgrade IMO. I never had any issue with stripping screw heads when using correct removal procedures.
If it aint broke don't fix it goes along way in my world.
Just my .2 cents from a lifetime of dealing with removing and installing all types of fasteners.
BD
Well a cave worked quite well for a house but here we are in 2021 arguing about the best fastener type.
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;) That's what makes the backroom a fun place to post all the varying opinions many times allows us to learn something new. I never knew that the square (Robertson) drive was invented around the same time as the Phillips drive screws. I also was unaware that they had a name other than square drive. 8)
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I never knew that the square (Robertson) drive was invented around the same time as the Phillips drive screws. I also was unaware that they had a name other than square drive. 8)
Nor did I.
I have been calling them square bit screws since I discovered them. Lol
Now what IS frustrating is taking apart something that someone built using different types of screws on. Having to grab 2 or 3 different bits is a pita, but a few years ago, I put together a "tackle box" of driver bits to keep them all together, and I just grab that box when working on a project.
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I never knew that the square (Robertson) drive was invented around the same time as the Phillips drive screws. I also was unaware that they had a name other than square drive. 8)
Nor did I.
I have been calling them square bit screws since I discovered them. Lol
Now what IS frustrating is taking apart something that someone built using different types of screws on. Having to grab 2 or 3 different bits is a pita, but a few years ago, I put together a "tackle box" of driver bits to keep them all together, and I just grab that box when working on a project.
I wish I could do that but my problem is I have different toolboxes for different jobs so there is a bit of overlap. I have one for electrical another for plumbing and a third for HVAC and last but not least one for oil-burner work. Then there is the Roll around for car and bike projects ::) ::)
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If I sold off all my tools and A/G stuff I could finance an all inclusive 3 week trip to Australia. with a back country Harley tour ;D ;D
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I do the same with toolboxes...one electrical, one specifically for erecting and dealing with Martin houses/ poles. One plumbing, and one for general wood projects. Oh...
And the bucket! 😆
When there will be screws involved, I grab two battery drills, the driver bit box, and the drill bit tackle box. Haha
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Yep me too, I do the same with toolboxes...one for AC electrical, one specifically for low voltage, one for plumbing, and one large one for building and wood working projects. Oh...an I hve "the bucket" also Lizzie! although it was a gift and not really my style. I have numerous tool boxes for metric and SAE end wrenches and sockets, ratchets, pull handles and extensions. 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" drives in both metric & SAE and 3/4" and 1" drive in SAE.
(Yep, 1" drive, my father owned a heavy construction company with dozers etc. And I have a tractor, bushhog, box blade, PTO post hole auger, plus other implements that have large nuts and bolts.)
And these are just the ones in my pickup and at my house most of the large tools, table saw, band saw, welders, torches are in my father's shop next door. My son bought his house and shop and we share the shop as I did with my father.
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I am a tool freak with..... WAY too many tools.
I used to be an industrial mechanic. ( Master Repair Machinist class A), HVAC certified, and held a maintenance electricians license.
At one time I had 4 roller cabinets with top chests.
One roller cabinet was dedicated to metric tools.
One top chest was full of precision machinist tools.
I had a top chest filled with electrical equipment & electrician tools.
These days I am down to 2 roller cabinets.
I also still have 5 tool boxes and 3 tool bags.
I sold my 1 inch drive socket set and my 3/4 drive socket set.
I sold the tool chest with most of my machinist tools.
I have been selling or giving away tools and tool cabinets (to my son's) ever since I retired.
I still have a 6 ft. Johnson type pry bar that I used for positioning heavy machinery.
I have chests full of tools, bags full of tools, buckets full of tools, cabinets full of tools, shelves with tools that are too big to fit in anything.
I have Way.... too many tools for what I need these days.
Best Wishes - Tom
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I wish I was that organized, Tom! ;D
I prefer bags for projects and also have them outfit for specific jobs.
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We're doing alright here. Learning a bit about tools and a bit about each other. Arguing about fastenings. Why not? A good thing to do and never shall we all agree. (thank goodness)
And a message to Hoosier Daddy. We still haven't talked about planes yet. It is coming. A plane is a tool and needs tools and a plane is a tool as well.
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How about a hand held power planer. I found this one at a yard sale cheap. Its one of my favorite power tools as I like to work with wood. It was made for Sears by Bosch and uses Bosch replacement blades. I've used it plane door tops and bottoms to fit, smoothed board edges and thinned gun stock blanks too. (http://)
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Got the same one and bought it new from Sears Robuck in Hicksville NY sometime around 1970.
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So......does anyone else have a ...Tic Tracer ? ;D
Best Wishes - Tom
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I recently got a leatherman accessory pocket sheath for my leatherman bond, and the FedEx truck just dropped off a Streamlight microstream USB to go in the flashlight loop on the side.
I've got many flashlights and a few that would fit, but I was looking for something rechargeable with decent output for work.
My current carry for work is much brighter ( has a 1000l turbo mode ) but even a little fat for a pocket in my opinion and the button is too easy to accidentally turn on.
This one will do 250l for 1.5hr, and 50 for 3.5hr.
(https://i.postimg.cc/4xLFVyp2/20210601-171902.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qNKLdkb2)
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Planes..
It had To come. I have two hand held power planes. One is a Bosch and it has only one blade in the head. Had to try it in the shop before I bought it. A good plane giving a good finish. I have another Hitachi that is ancient. Metal body and a pressed steel case. It has three high speed steel blades and the finish it gives is outstanding.
Then there are six wooden planes ranging from smoothers to jack and roughing out planes.
Five block planes. Including one low angle. l enjoy sharpening the planes as much as using them . And there are 6 Steel planes ranging from smoothers to jack to a big jointer. I keep them all sharp. Then there is a kit of molding planes and the rebate plane and the hand router and the steel scraper plane.
Then there is a prized draw knife. Got that one out of the bilge of a Charles Mower designed ocean racer. That was built in Shangai 1907. The owner of the boat knows I have it and he is not getting it back. Any draw knife job he needs, I will do it. Just a marvelous tool that needs to be kept razor sharp
I use them all at times but obviously some much more than others.
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These are all the tools I use to shape and make hickory tool handles ( except for the saw and single bevel hatchet )
(https://i.postimg.cc/0jqhMWh0/20210601-200819.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gXNg1Dzx)
I recently got the set of English made CROWN cabinet scrapers and they have been a game changer , they're around $10 for the set.
The brown handled tool is a burnisher which a hard steel rod you run across them to raise a sharp bur on the edge , about $15 and also made by Crown.
It was brand new till the pup got ahold of it, now I can't use it without getting a splinter.
I just haven't gotten around to fixing it.
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Being a mechanic for 45 plus years I have seen the introduction of all those new screw drive head configurations change thru the years and while they do offer some improvements it also requires the necessity to buy new tools to fit the changes. Just not a necessary upgrade IMO. I never had any issue with stripping screw heads when using correct removal procedures.
If it aint broke don't fix it goes along way in my world.
Just my .2 cents from a lifetime of dealing with removing and installing all types of fasteners.
BD
Well a cave worked quite well for a house but here we are in 2021 arguing about the best fastener type.
Well a cave still works quite well as a house but not all fastener types are up to par here in 2021. I do not use straight slot or Philips if at all possible, seldom square drive and mostly torx or allen since they tend to be least easy to strip out of all fasteners other than good old hex head screws and bolts.
Hence my if it aint broke don't fix it motto, hex head and age old external square head fasteners just do not strip if the correct tool is used and they are not allowed to become corroded or rusted. Forgive me if I am stuck in the 60/70s time era back when vehicles were actually fun to work on and did not require half the vehicle to be disassembled to fix a minor issue.
I can fix the modern techno wonders rolling down the roads now but does not mean I want nor desire to do so or see the need for all the techno garbage in them.
Be honest and tell me if you feel safe knowing there are semi trucks rolling down our interstates right now with no human behind the wheel carrying 80,000 pounds of goods at 70mph or Tesla's in auto pilot mode with either a drunk person in the drivers seat or in the back seat playing video games. I have a friend whose son bought a Tesla specifically so if he got drunk his car could drive him home. The problem is humans program the systems in these vehicles and we as humans make mistakes so the computer is only as good as the person that wrote the code. There are numerous accounts of Tesla's involved in wrecks while in auto pilot modes where the system did not recognize people or vehicles on the side of roads or semi trucks/trailers turning across the lane in front of the Tesla. One individual was decapitated by the trailer since the car never checked up before going under the trailer.
BD
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;) That's what makes the backroom a fun place to post all the varying opinions many times allows us to learn something new. I never knew that the square (Robertson) drive was invented around the same time as the Phillips drive screws. I also was unaware that they had a name other than square drive. 8)
I never knew they had a name other than square drive and were found mostly in mobile homes in my experience. Very rarely if ever used in motor vehicle applications.
BD
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Being a mechanic for 45 plus years I have seen the introduction of all those new screw drive head configurations change thru the years and while they do offer some improvements it also requires the necessity to buy new tools to fit the changes. Just not a necessary upgrade IMO. I never had any issue with stripping screw heads when using correct removal procedures.
If it aint broke don't fix it goes along way in my world.
Just my .2 cents from a lifetime of dealing with removing and installing all types of fasteners.
BD
Well a cave worked quite well for a house but here we are in 2021 arguing about the best fastener type.
Well a cave still works quite well as a house but not all fastener types are up to par here in 2021. I do not use straight slot or Philips if at all possible, seldom square drive and mostly torx or allen since they tend to be least easy to strip out of all fasteners other than good old hex head screws and bolts.
Hence my if it aint broke don't fix it motto, hex head and age old external square head fasteners just do not strip if the correct tool is used and they are not allowed to become corroded or rusted. Forgive me if I am stuck in the 60/70s time era back when vehicles were actually fun to work on and did not require half the vehicle to be disassemble to fix a minor issue.
I can fix the modern techno wonders rolling down the roads now but does not mean I want nor desire to do so or see the need for all the techno garbage in them.
BD
Not enough caves for everyone these days. I prefer torx or allen my self also but that is more for aesthetics but the durability is there to back it up. I know why phillips is used becasue of cam out and that also means it will cam out when trying to remove it hence it was broken from the start and total junk IMO. The second most useless fastener next to slot.
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Being a mechanic for 45 plus years I have seen the introduction of all those new screw drive head configurations change thru the years and while they do offer some improvements it also requires the necessity to buy new tools to fit the changes. Just not a necessary upgrade IMO. I never had any issue with stripping screw heads when using correct removal procedures.
If it aint broke don't fix it goes along way in my world.
Just my .2 cents from a lifetime of dealing with removing and installing all types of fasteners.
BD
Well a cave worked quite well for a house but here we are in 2021 arguing about the best fastener type.
Well a cave still works quite well as a house but not all fastener types are up to par here in 2021. I do not use straight slot or Philips if at all possible, seldom square drive and mostly torx or allen since they tend to be least easy to strip out of all fasteners other than good old hex head screws and bolts.
Hence my if it aint broke don't fix it motto, hex head and age old external square head fasteners just do not strip if the correct tool is used and they are not allowed to become corroded or rusted. Forgive me if I am stuck in the 60/70s time era back when vehicles were actually fun to work on and did not require half the vehicle to be disassemble to fix a minor issue.
I can fix the modern techno wonders rolling down the roads now but does not mean I want nor desire to do so or see the need for all the techno garbage in them.
BD
Not enough caves for everyone these days. I prefer torx or allen my self also but that is more for aesthetics but the durability is there to back it up. I know why phillips is used becasue of cam out and that also means it will cam out when trying to remove it hence it was broken from the start and total junk IMO. The second most useless fastener next to slot.
Yep slot and Philips are only good for light duty application where secure retention of item is not a priority. And cheap manufacture is more a priority than quality.
BD
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Fastenings.
There is no doubt that drill driven screws are good and they are easily driven into soft wood and quick. Square drive or torx have to have the most secure
hold from the driver. We have here things called boogle or bogle screws. you will have them maybe using the same brand name. They are countersunk heads with a female hex drive. Galvanised and in big sizes 50 to 200 mms long, maybe more. The big ones really need a pilot hole. Very good holding power and can be set home with a hex socket.
I still like slotted wood screws. They are better holders than the thin shanked drill driver screws and certainly have their place in hardwoods that just break the heads off drill driver screws but they need to have a hole drilled for them. Some now come with square drive heads.
I don't disagree with any of the opinions so far but some screws are better than others for some jobs.
I am always a little concerned that driving big screws into soft wood without a pilot hole can split the wood and is some cases reduce the holding power.
PS. What is a Tic Tracer.
PPS. We haven't talked about nails yet.
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We're doing alright here. Learning a bit about tools and a bit about each other. Arguing about fastenings. Why not? A good thing to do and never shall we all agree. (thank goodness)
And a message to Hoosier Daddy. We still haven't talked about planes yet. It is coming. A plane is a tool and needs tools and a plane is a tool as well.
OHHHH,
A plane, not a plane...
Now I gotchya!
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Until I started making templates for my counter tops I used this electric planer to scribe them to the wall.
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I never knew that the square (Robertson) drive was invented around the same time as the Phillips drive screws. I also was unaware that they had a name other than square drive. 8)
Nor did I.
I have been calling them square bit screws since I discovered them. Lol
Now what IS frustrating is taking apart something that someone built using different types of screws on. Having to grab 2 or 3 different bits is a pita, but a few years ago, I put together a "tackle box" of driver bits to keep them all together, and I just grab that box when working on a project.
My story about a manufacturer mixing fasten types- many decades ago I had the displeasure of having to change the rubberized canvas strip that connects the feed throat to the cylinder housing on a Massey Ferguson 410 combine. Mice had gotten inside and chewed a hole. Wheat was pouring out on the ground. Now to access this, I had to kneel on the ground and arch my back across the axle, while working with my arms above and behind my head. Everything was by feel only. 8 studs on each side , each having a nut, lock washer and flat washer that secured a retaining strip (x2) holding the canvas in place. Disassembly proceeded fairly well, despite the uncomfortable position. Finally get the new canvas strip on the studs, retaining strip in place and 2 fasteners on the studs, and then.... nothing. I mean I couldn’t get that third nut to go on. No way, no how. I looked at the nut. Looked fine. Felt the stud- nothing rough. Got my flashlight and cranked my head around to look at the stud. Looked good. Tried again. No go. Tried the next stud. No go. Tried another nut. Nope. Tried another nut. Yep. What the...... so I looked at the nuts. All the nuts. One side of the assembly used SAE fine studs and one side used coarse.....
I separated the nuts into two piles and, while enjoying a lovely 97 degree summer day, with wheat chaff and dust constantly falling on me, I finished the repair. I also roundly cursed an unknown manufacturing engineer sitting in an office, his forebears and untold generations of progeny.
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Oooh, planes. Used to be, one of my favorite evening pastimes was to set up a Stanley 45 Multiplane and just make shavings. Occasionally I would do something useful with it, but then I got a router table for that.
Lately, I've been using a Rigid cordless power plane for ordinary plane work so it looks like the bench planes may get put on the shelf as well.
Oh well, life goes on.
:)
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I have a Stanley 45. I called it molding plane. In a box with multiple blade shapes. Superseded by the power router now. Still nice to have and play with.
I saw one on display in the science and technology museum in London UK a few years ago so they must be something to have..
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I have a friend who is a railways maintenance engineer. He liked working on American stuff because the bolts and fastenings were all uniform and in the right place. Not so with British stuff. And Chinese. Say no more.
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Here's what I put in my install bag, everything I could possibly need!
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(https://i.postimg.cc/k4c7Dn1k/20210602-184750.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tZYKMHH5)
12.5" walnut handle, and a cotton twine wrap locked in place by a healthy dose of beeswax.
Walnut is not usually the choice, but perfectly adequate for a 1lb head and it was readily available so that's what I chose to make it from.
Plus who doesn't love walnut ?
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Among my favorites is the air impact wrench that does the hard work for me.
(https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sipuk.co.uk%2Fmedia%2Fcatalog%2Fcategory%2Fair-impact-wrenches.jpg&f=1&nofb=1)
The air dremel and air gun have come in very handy as well. Thank God for air compressors.
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I have a Stanley 45. I called it molding plane. In a box with multiple blade shapes. Superseded by the power router now. Still nice to have and play with.
I saw one on display in the science and technology museum in London UK a few years ago so they must be something to have..
I have an old plane of my fathers out in the garage, have never used since I was a teenager many moons ago. Not even sure what brand it is but will dig it out and post a pic of it tomorrow. Just remembered I had it still. Not much use for it in mechanic work.
BD
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(https://i.postimg.cc/k4c7Dn1k/20210602-184750.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tZYKMHH5)
12.5" walnut handle, and a cotton twine wrap locked in place by a healthy dose of beeswax.
Walnut is not usually the choice, but perfectly adequate for a 1lb head and it was readily available so that's what I chose to make it from.
Plus who doesn't love walnut ?
Very nice work, David! Looks sharp... ;)
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(https://i.postimg.cc/k4c7Dn1k/20210602-184750.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tZYKMHH5)
12.5" walnut handle, and a cotton twine wrap locked in place by a healthy dose of beeswax.
Walnut is not usually the choice, but perfectly adequate for a 1lb head and it was readily available so that's what I chose to make it from.
Plus who doesn't love walnut ?
Very nice work, David! Looks sharp... ;)
Thank you.
It's not a handle profile I would normally go with , but I found a picture of one with the original handle so I did my best to make a reasonable facsimile of the original .
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Good morning bantam5s. A great day for axes. I like the look of that little axe handle and the head. Just seems right to me. And the ears look good as well as being functional. I notice in some of the axes the cutting edge slopes back to the handle. The Craftsman hatchet has the cutting edge parallel to the handle. I just went and checked my big Plumb and my hatchet and they both have the cutting edge parallel. I wonder why or if there is any significance in the angle. My hatchet, called the little axe, I found somewhere and put a new handle in it not unlike yours.
I used teak for the handle. Any amount strong enough but the tannin in the wood causes rust.
My big axe I got from my father. I can never remember it not being in the family. Just an ordinary axe but a good one. A Plumb. In my youth, we had a hill country sheep farm, I carried the axe all over the hills on my horse. The farm had been cleared of dense bush about 60 years prior. Cut and burn in those days although good timber was extracted. and the hills were dotted with old stumps. One of my jobs was to burn any dead stock on the place. That axe has busted up plenty of stumps for fires. I was so good at it that in the end the stumps got scarce and we had to bury stock. Not nearly as much fun.
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Never wear a cheap 100% recycled polyester shirt when using an angle grinder.
(https://i.postimg.cc/PrvDGd6h/20210603-140957.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/F7mz3X5n)
It's too dang hot to be wearing a leather apron, and I didn't even think about the shirts material till afterwards and saw the label on one of the others, this one was too melted to read.
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Good morning bantam5s. A great day for axes. I like the look of that little axe handle and the head. Just seems right to me. And the ears look good as well as being functional. I notice in some of the axes the cutting edge slopes back to the handle. The Craftsman hatchet has the cutting edge parallel to the handle. I just went and checked my big Plumb and my hatchet and they both have the cutting edge parallel. I wonder why or if there is any significance in the angle. My hatchet, called the little axe, I found somewhere and put a new handle in it not unlike yours.
I used teak for the handle. Any amount strong enough but the tannin in the wood causes rust.
My big axe I got from my father. I can never remember it not being in the family. Just an ordinary axe but a good one. A Plumb. In my youth, we had a hill country sheep farm, I carried the axe all over the hills on my horse. The farm had been cleared of dense bush about 60 years prior. Cut and burn in those days although good timber was extracted. and the hills were dotted with old stumps. One of my jobs was to burn any dead stock on the place. That axe has busted up plenty of stumps for fires. I was so good at it that in the end the stumps got scarce and we had to bury stock. Not nearly as much fun.
Are you talking about a straight vs radiused edge ?
A straighter bit is for carving and shaping , and a radiused bit is for chopping and felling to help bite.
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Never wear a cheap 100% recycled polyester shirt when using an angle grinder.
(https://i.postimg.cc/PrvDGd6h/20210603-140957.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/F7mz3X5n)
It's too dang hot to be wearing a leather apron, and I didn't even think about the shirts material till afterwards and saw the label on one of the others, this one was too melted to read.
It caught fire?!? :o
Even a 100% cotton t-shirt doesn't do that; not even with welding sparks!
Just wow...
Jesse
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Never wear a cheap 100% recycled polyester shirt when using an angle grinder.
(https://i.postimg.cc/PrvDGd6h/20210603-140957.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/F7mz3X5n)
It's too dang hot to be wearing a leather apron, and I didn't even think about the shirts material till afterwards and saw the label on one of the others, this one was too melted to read.
It caught fire?!? :o
Even a 100% cotton t-shirt doesn't do that; not even with welding sparks!
Just wow...
Jesse
Yep, felt something hot tossed it on the floor and the flames took off as soon as it landed.
Dumped a cup of water on it and that's all she wrote.
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Darn got busy today and forgot to post a pic of the old Plane my father left me. I promise I will get one posted tomorrow without fail.
BD
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Never wear a cheap 100% recycled polyester shirt when using an angle grinder.
(https://i.postimg.cc/PrvDGd6h/20210603-140957.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/F7mz3X5n)
It's too dang hot to be wearing a leather apron
Turns out polyester is hotter than leather. All's well that ends well. Glad you didn't get burned.
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Never wear a cheap 100% recycled polyester shirt when using an angle grinder.
(https://i.postimg.cc/PrvDGd6h/20210603-140957.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/F7mz3X5n)
It's too dang hot to be wearing a leather apron
Turns out polyester is hotter than leather. All's well that ends well. Glad you didn't get burned.
Certainly.
I'm gonna get a lightweight canvas shop apron, should be much better than a cheap polyester work shirt ;D
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David,
I bought my guys at work denim (blue jean) Shop Aprons just like the one Dad had, and then myself... Mom actually sewed the originals.
Let me see if I can find where I ordered them from when I get to work Monday.
MUCH cooler than Leather and hold up VERY well.
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So now that I know we are speaking wood planes not airplanes.
My Dad was a Carpenter by trade. When he passed away back in '82, my step-brother received all his wood tools.
But I got my Grand-dad's.
I am sure it's close to 100 years old as I am 58.
My Step-Dad has an awesome collection of antique wooden ones, he and Mom recently moved so I sent a request for a pic if he has them up on display yet.
Anyhow... Here is Grand-Dad's
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David,
I bought my guys at work denim (blue jean) Shop Aprons just like the one Dad had, and then myself... Mom actually sewed the originals.
Let me see if I can find where I ordered them from when I get to work Monday.
MUCH cooler than Leather and hold up VERY well.
I believe dickies has one for about $20.
But I'll look and see what HJE has in stock.
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Hoosier Daddy, you've got a Bailey smooth plane. Probably made by Stanley, still quite useful and repairable [if needed]. Google 'The Superior Works - Patrick's Blood and Gore' to find out more than you would ever want to know about Bailey and Stanley planes. May well be over 100 years old.
Good tools, well cared for, last.
:)
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Thanks Chuck!
You are correct, casting in the nose says "Bailey" and ahead of the handle says
PAT,D
MAR-25-02
AUG-19-02
APR-19-10
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On the old wood planes, I would LOVE to know what to buy (brand/ style) , and where to find, for a collector. My son works wood, takes it from the tree all the way to the finished product, and he loves the old planes, and things like that make great gifts, as far as I am concerned.
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Mom said "How ironic, Jim is working on his display now!"
Here is the start, probably 1/2 of what he has.
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Well a few days late but finally got my fathers old wood plane out for some pics. It at least 65 years old since it is made in England and I was born there on an US air force base in 1965 which is 65 years ago while my father was stationed there, it may be slightly older as I am not sure now long my parents were in England during his service.
Its made by the Record company and is still in quite good shape despite being in a drawer in my garage for at least 30 years unused. I have used it to plane some doors back in the late 70s but that's about it. My father passed in 89 so it has been with me since then for sure.
BD
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Looks like a nice block plane there, the same design as my Stanley handyman block planes.
I believe this is a lower cost design, but block planes do certainly tend to be a simpler and less precise than a bench plane so that may not necessarily be true as far as block planes go.
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That Record plane must have been in a good place. No rust and no sign of it having been cleaned up recently. Usually planes stored long term in a cardboard box get some rust or even pitting. Blade looks as if it needs attention.
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I never knew that the square (Robertson) drive was invented around the same time as the Phillips drive screws. I also was unaware that they had a name other than square drive. 8)
Nor did I.
I have been calling them square bit screws since I discovered them. Lol
Now what IS frustrating is taking apart something that someone built using different types of screws on. Having to grab 2 or 3 different bits is a pita, but a few years ago, I put together a "tackle box" of driver bits to keep them all together, and I just grab that box when working on a project.
I find the multi screw head issue at work all the time, most times the heads are driven so deep that on has to test the bits blind to find what fits. I blame our suppliers for not having the screws we want in stock more often than not.
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On the different screws on any given job site?
When building stuff the crews don't give a darn about any future demo or work so just grab what is easy and fast for them.
I call that the Lazy Guy syndrome. And I see it all the time!
::)
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I believe dickies has one for about $20.
But I'll look and see what HJE has in stock.
I stopped buying from dickies when they turned anti AR15. Academy and Gander have everything they do without any brow beating political gun virtue signaling lectures to go with it so no more reason for me to shop dickies. Just wanted to pass that on in case anyone here is unaware of them pulling that bs last year.
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I believe dickies has one for about $20.
But I'll look and see what HJE has in stock.
I stopped buying from dickies when they turned anti AR15. Academy and Gander have everything they do without any brow beating political gun virtue signaling lectures to go with it so no more reason for me to shop dickies. Just wanted to pass that on in case anyone here is unaware of them pulling that bs last year.
I stopped buying their pants because the pockets are worthless, but I wouldn't want to support a company who doesn't support my right to live.
HJE has an American made canvas shop apron for $17 , that's what I'm gonna buy.
HJE is one of my favorites places to deal with anyways.
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That Record plane must have been in a good place. No rust and no sign of it having been cleaned up recently. Usually planes stored long term in a cardboard box get some rust or even pitting. Blade looks as if it needs attention.
Yea it does need some TLC as it was put up without being cleaned up before put away. It has been a a drawer in one of my metal workbenches in the garage for at a minimum of 30 years or more. Yes the blade does have some slight surface rust on it that some steel wool and elbow grease will clean up nicely. I, will take it apart and clean and lube all metal on it so it will last another 65 plus years. No pitting noticeable on it at this time and the last time I used it it shaved the door edge off very easily and cleanly. Blade is tungsten steel.
BD
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I believe dickies has one for about $20.
But I'll look and see what HJE has in stock.
I stopped buying from dickies when they turned anti AR15. Academy and Gander have everything they do without any brow beating political gun virtue signaling lectures to go with it so no more reason for me to shop dickies. Just wanted to pass that on in case anyone here is unaware of them pulling that bs last year.
You can add Levis to the list of anti American cancel culture companies as well. Going to get to the point we will have no true patriot companies left to patronize in this country.
BD
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"Blade is tungsten steel."
I am not familiar with that steel. As far as I know all my plane blades, except the hand held power planes are high speed steel. They sharpen well and do a good job of making shavings.
The power plane blades I think are tungsten carbide. They shatter or chip out a piece if you hit a big nail. The blades on scrapers and router bits I think are tungsten carbide. You can tickle them up a bit with a diamond stone and get a bit more life out of them. Maybe more cleaning that sharpening but I can see a titch of wear from the stone.
We haven't talked about plug in drills. (240 volt) It is coming soon.
I am a wood worker more than a metal worker although I do a bit of simple metal fabrication. I have made three road trailers and they are all hanging together after many years of use. May be I am a better welder than I think I am. Yeah right mate.
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Grab tool is another one of my favorites. Used it to grab a lot of limbs that fell after a storm while driving the mower and tossing the limbs into the trailer to dump in the woods. Got 3 full trailer loads with it. I only have to get out of the mower to lift heavy limbs by hand but most I get with the grabber.
(https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fi5.walmartimages.com%2Fasr%2F5fb7ffae-e4f5-4059-b3e8-3418a8552cbb_1.72babf0b2513c0d50c08fa5a9b5ee90e.jpeg%3FodnWidth%3D180%26odnHeight%3D180%26odnBg%3Dffffff&f=1&nofb=1)
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"Blade is tungsten steel."
I am not familiar with that steel. As far as I know all my plane blades, except the hand held power planes are high speed steel. They sharpen well and do a good job of making shavings.
The power plane blades I think are tungsten carbide. They shatter or chip out a piece if you hit a big nail. The blades on scrapers and router bits I think are tungsten carbide. You can tickle them up a bit with a diamond stone and get a bit more life out of them. Maybe more cleaning that sharpening but I can see a titch of wear from the stone.
We haven't talked about plug in drills. (240 volt) It is coming soon.
I am a wood worker more than a metal worker although I do a bit of simple metal fabrication. I have made three road trailers and they are all hanging together after many years of use. May be I am a better welder than I think I am. Yeah right mate.
I am not a metallurgist at all so not sure what tungsten steel is as compared to other types of steel but was just stating what is shown on the box that came with the plane and in the instruction pamphlet..
BD
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Tungsten steel is just an old alloy that is brittle but holds a very nice edge. Modern tool steels like D2 and even HHS can be better candidates for cutting tools without having the inevitable chipping issue.
T1 tungsten steel has 18% W (tungsten) and really hasn't changed since 1910 when it was introduced.
T2 has 6% tungsten has 5% (Molybdenum) MO and has all but replaced the old tungsten steel.
"High-speed steels (HSS) are tool steels that consist of a combination of over 7 % Mo, W, and vanadium (V), with over 0.60% carbon."
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Tungsten steel is just an old alloy that is brittle but holds a very nice edge. Modern tool steels like D2 and even HHS can be better candidates for cutting tools without having the inevitable chipping issue.
T1 tungsten steel has 18% W (tungsten) and really hasn't changed since 1910 when it was introduced.
T2 has 6% tungsten has 5% (Molybdenum) MO and has all but replaced the old tungsten steel.
"High-speed steels (HSS) are tool steels that consist of a combination of over 7 % Mo, W, and vanadium (V), with over 0.60% carbon."
Thanks for the info, David.
BD
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Here here to buldawg76. We now have an inkling of what some steel is.
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Tungsten steel is just an old alloy that is brittle but holds a very nice edge. Modern tool steels like D2 and even HHS can be better candidates for cutting tools without having the inevitable chipping issue.
T1 tungsten steel has 18% W (tungsten) and really hasn't changed since 1910 when it was introduced.
T2 has 6% tungsten has 5% (Molybdenum) MO and has all but replaced the old tungsten steel.
"High-speed steels (HSS) are tool steels that consist of a combination of over 7 % Mo, W, and vanadium (V), with over 0.60% carbon."
Thanks for the info, David.
BD
Your welcome. I always knew my metallurgy classes would come in hand one day! ;D ;)
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I didn't just receive this in the mail, because I don't have a thing for Channellock ;)
(https://i.postimg.cc/SRhrnT1z/20210609-112745.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MM9R4DSW)
(https://i.postimg.cc/kXwc5yQB/20210609-113813.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/56Yv7LkV)
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Not pouting..
But I am really interested why there was no comments on my Step-dad's planes collection
Maybe I need to go there and help him re-set up his "entire" display, then take better pics.
Those are made of wood, by hand, with steel blade held in with a wood handled wedge and a each one has a purpose.
Every bit of 1800's vintage.
I honestly thought you Toolfreaks would "Freak out".
Just imagine the things they could have built.. cabinets, ornate saloons, ships, Conestoga wagons to cross the frontier.... My mind is boggled.
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=186835.0;attach=361932;image)
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Sorry, Scott, I see no need for planes any longer.
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I am surprised Firewalker sees no need for planes. Your collection is worthy of any woodworkers attention. I am remiss in not remarking favourably on it. They are craftsmans tools and can be made to accomplish many tasks that a power plane is not suited for or just can't do. Apart from that there is just the sheer joy of using a nicely sharpened plane that can take off paper thin, and thin paper at that, shavings. And quiet as well and you can smell the cypress and the cedar and the pine. And steel bed planes as well.
A good plane is a woodworker's delight and they last for a 100 years with constant use. No power plane will ever do that.
I didn't remark but I really enjoyed your display. There will be others like me who think they spout off too much and too long. Kapai Ehoa.
PS. I cant see the plane or tool in the top right hand corner very well. Can you tell me what it is. Maybe another photo.
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I am surprised Firewalker sees no need for planes. Your collection is worthy of any woodworkers attention. I am remiss in not remarking favourably on it. They are craftsmans tools and can be made to accomplish many tasks that a power plane is not suited for or just can't do. Apart from that there is just the sheer joy of using a nicely sharpened plane that can take off paper thin, and thin paper at that, shavings. And quiet as well and you can smell the cypress and the cedar and the pine. And steel bed planes as well.
A good plane is a woodworker's delight and they last for a 100 years with constant use. No power plane will ever do that.
I didn't remark but I really enjoyed your display. There will be others like me who think they spout off too much and too long. Kapai Ehoa.
PS. I cant see the plane or tool in the top right hand corner very well. Can you tell me what it is. Maybe another photo.
Nope, I have a dozen and they have seen zero use in the past 20 or so years due to superior processing and finishing techniques. Like the slotted screw, its time is over.
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Sorry, Scott, I see no need for planes any longer.
What do you use instead ?
I can think of absolutely nothing I would possibly use in place of my block plane when I pick it up and start taking shavings.
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Sorry, Scott, I see no need for planes any longer.
What do you use instead ?
I can think of absolutely nothing I would possibly use in place of my block plane when I pick it up and start taking shavings.
Forgive me for asking this but what do you need a plane for? Saws, fences, rip guides, all have become so accurate that you dont have to 'fix' a misscut and planers have all but removed any need to 'level' a board.
You can't plane a door bottom any longer due to engineered wood and adhesives and veneer do not get along with planes. My Bailey No 8 will just sit on the shelf looking pretty for now.
I have 100 ways of wasting time on a plane is just not on that list.
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PS. I cant see the plane or tool in the top right hand corner very well. Can you tell me what it is. Maybe another photo.
I believe it to be a "precision" wood clamp.
I will indeed go and help him set up the rest of his display (again) and get better photos of the 1800's tools in the near future.
After all, they will be mine to display eventually, to carry on the linage of father to (step) son. :'(
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Scott that picture really isnt doing them the justice they deserve. Very nice collection!
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I believe you are correct Matt, Mom took it with her cell phone very quickly, spur of the moment, on my request.
I will get it corrected soon. ;)
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Well I can see Firewalkers point of view. Modern materials like melamine coated chip board. They have their place and straight off the saw, with edging, they require no finishing. Just not me though. Every old kitchen made like that has failed. They can not be refinished. Joiners love them because they are temporary and make another.
I like solid timber. Just me. Just to illustrate, I got a job a while ago repairing kitchens in a rough area apartment block. The kitchens had seen a rough life but I could be repaired and refurbished for another lease of life. The same goes for old and modern furniture. I like the older stuff and older houses. Real timber not woodgrain laminate.
PS. I have just come from visiting a friend in a retirement village. All perfect, all the same and all characterless, in my never humble opinion.
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Sorry, Scott, I see no need for planes any longer.
What do you use instead ?
I can think of absolutely nothing I would possibly use in place of my block plane when I pick it up and start taking shavings.
Forgive me for asking this but what do you need a plane for? Saws, fences, rip guides, all have become so accurate that you dont have to 'fix' a misscut and planers have all but removed any need to 'level' a board.
You can't plane a door bottom any longer due to engineered wood and adhesives and veneer do not get along with planes. My Bailey No 8 will just sit on the shelf looking pretty for now.
I have 100 ways of wasting time on a plane is just not on that list.
Well for example
When I make or fit a tool handle I do it with a rasp / 4 in hand , handsaw, spokeshave, block plane, bench axe, and cabinet scrapers.
For me and the DIY often hobby related things I do at home, it was not a waste of time unless the project didn't pan out.
The fact that it took longer than it could have If I owned a lot more big stationary power tools is no skin off my neck.
Btw I used a block plane a couple years ago on a bathroom door, my uncle gave me on he had laying around and It needed a bit of work to fit.
I guess it's just the things I do that make wood planes useful.
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I used my block plane yesterday to make a comb riser for my CFX. Just the tool for the job.
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I used my block plane yesterday to make a comb riser for my CFX. Just the tool for the job.
He seems to be looking at things from a contractor / carpentry time is money standpoint , and I get it in that context.
However there are many things where they are still a very useful tool that really won't be surpassed by modern equipment.
That comb riser is a good example.
And I'm not a prepper or something, but a hand plane pretty much lasts Indefinitely and requires no power source.
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Sorry Scott
I must have completely missed the pic of those old works of art the fist go round. I for one may not use such an old tool any more for the fear of breaking it or damaging it, but to keep and admire the craftsmanship of what is now a lost art is every bit the whole point.
I have old special mechanics tools and ones specifically for GM vehicles that may never be used again but they will never be gotten rid of since they are not made at all anymore. Being an old skool person stuck back in the true muscle car days of cubic inch wars one day those tools will come in handy. If nothing else I will pass them down to my kids to figure out just what the heck they actually were used for.
I just see to many old ways being lost from the newer generations that will never be passed down or the skills retained when our world and time reverts back to simpler times. Everything goes full circle eventually IMO. Just ask mother nature about so called climate change that has run in cycles on this planet since she was first put in charge. What once was will be born again given time.
BD
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I used my block plane yesterday to make a comb riser for my CFX. Just the tool for the job.
He seems to be looking at things from a contractor / carpentry time is money standpoint , and I get it in that context.
However there are many things where they are still a very useful tool that really won't be surpassed by modern equipment.
That comb riser is a good example.
And I'm not a prepper or something, but a hand plane pretty much lasts Indefinitely and requires no power source.
Close, commercial/industrial but I'll still use the power planer to trim up the bottom of a door if need be. Don't get me wrong, I have spoke shaves, rasps, scrapers etc. to do hand work but the half dozen planes just sit an look pretty.
I have nothing against planes, go ahead and use them, I love watching video of block plane competitions cutting swarf.
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If they just sit and look pretty then you must appreciate them for something and that must be worthwhile. A lot of tools spend a lot of time just waiting but as you know, tool freaks like collections.
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All the tools I have bought over my 50 year career have made me a very good living and have some sentimental value to me as well. I admit I probably should go thru and downsize on some of the duplicates but I have found in the past years that when I clean out/up accumulated items that I have not needed or used in years it ends up a week later I need what I just got rid of, has happened more time than I care to think about.
So now I guess I have become a hoarder of sorts with tools and parts for fear if I thin the herd today then tomorrow I will need what I just let go. Believe me when I say I do know what all I have but just may not know exactly the last place it was put at precisely. I do know its either in the garage or shed out back that is a given.
BD
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Power drills.
Time to talk about plug in power drills. 240 volts.
My biggest drill is a free standing drill press. Five speeds called a Canadian Buffalo. No 15 drill . Made by the Canadian Blower and Forge Co. Kitchener, Ontario. I suspect it is world war 2 vintage. 1/2 inch chuck. Just really handy. I use it all the time. Even for jobs where a pistol drill would do.
Then there are six pistol drills. One is ¼ inch Desoutter. Ancient and very worn but still going. All aluminium casing . Turns at 600 rpm and that is it. Next is a Desoutter ½ inch drill. A real power house with a two speed gear box. 1200 and 525 rpm. No hammer function so no good for drilling concrete. Desoutter were made in England but now I think they only manufacture air tools . The drill has a design fault in that the lock on button is in the centre of the trigger. Sometimes you can inadvertently lock the trigger on. If the drill jambs with the lock on just let go if you can and pull the cord out. If you can’t just let the drill wind the cord out or break it. The key chucks are good and the hand chucks are alright.
Then there are some run of the mill stuff. Ryobi, Makita, Bosch. All have power cords and need RCDs when working outside but they are very handy when working at the bench. Even then they should be run through an RCD or transformer.
One of the Makitas has a screwdriver function, sort of a noisy hammer action but it is not nearly as good as an battery drill driver. Then there is a Chinese hammer drill that can act as a drill or a small jack hammer that can rotate chisels or just hammer them. It was a real cheapy. $99.00 NZ. And it just keeps on going when it was designed to fail long ago.
PS. The photo part didn't work. Need to get some lessons from the Newlands computer shop. Job for tomorrow.
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I own a corded DeWalt that can drill concrete, but I have never used it.
My drills usually only get used for pre-drilling holes for fasteners, putting in fasteners, or cutting holes with Forstner bits. I have a couple of corded DeWalt regular drills, a SKIL that I didn't expect to last, but has, and a battery DeWalt, 18 V.
Anything more serious that needs a drill is likely to prompt a call to the son. 😆
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Some of those old drills can break an arm/hand if not careful. Crazy amount of torque and the motor will make a few more spins even after letting off the trigger. Have a firm grip and be prepared to let go. Big hole saws can be "fun" too. Anything serious will have an extra handle you can add. Know where it is at and don't be afraid to use it. I have had my share of drill related wrist sprains over the years.
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I am a bit of a Makita fanboy myself. I have several different generations of Makita battery powered drivers and drills, the newest BL series with the miniature battery is the latest addition and really helps when you are fastening drywall overhead due to its lightweight.
I just have a single drill press, half inch chuck, a Sears half horsepower, has enough power to get the job done but isn't incredibly dangerous if you stall the bit on exit drilling Steel.
I also have a good old-fashioned corded, hammer drill with a half inch Chuck. That sucker will take your arm off if you're not careful if it binds.
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NovaGun, I've also got a chicom rotohammer that just keeps going, in fact, it's the only corded drill in my kit that still gets any use. Needed to drill a large hole through a brick foundation on an old house we were renovating and found I could buy this drill with a few bits for the same as a day's rental of a professional drill. Sometimes you just luck out.
:)
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Got several cordless drills of makita, craftsman, stanley brands and corded makitas as well all many years old. Also 40 plus year old craftsman 8 inch bench top drill press that i have used as a mill and bent the spindle when mill bit hung up in work, just ordered new spindle to replace bent one and still going strong. Also 40 plus year old 12 gallon 1/2 hp craftsman shop compressor that has had oil changed once and still has original air filter in place. If it aint broke don't fix it.
BD
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I have a shop compressor. It is meant to put out 12 cfm free air delivery but I think it actually does less than that , about 10. I have sprayed a couple of yachts with it but I have to pause to let the compressor catch up. Nevertheless made a good finish. Maybe the pauses helped me. Once as I was using it, rather while it was between coats a truck hit it and tipped it over. The oil ran out. I had some motor oil in the boat and just topped it up. Went a lot better with motor oil because it was detonating. The oil separator took all the gunk out of the air supply and got the job finished. Changed the oil for compressor oil and back to normal.
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I have a shop compressor. It is meant to put out 12 cfm free air delivery but I think it actually does less than that , about 10. I have sprayed a couple of yachts with it but I have to pause to let the compressor catch up. Nevertheless made a good finish. Maybe the pauses helped me. Once as I was using it, rather while it was between coats a truck hit it and tipped it over. The oil ran out. I had some motor oil in the boat and just topped it up. Went a lot better with motor oil because it was detonating. The oil separator took all the gunk out of the air supply and got the job finished. Changed the oil for compressor oil and back to normal.
Mine has run without fail for the last 40 plus years except for one time I started it up and it sounded like the rod went out in it. Shut it down and pulled it out from under work table to inspect and found a yellow rat snake wrapped up in the drive belt. There was a mouse nest in the corner of plastic belt cover that he must have been in there to eat and did not get out in time. I opened cover and removed snake and all was good except for the snake as he did not fare so well, oh and the mouse was gone from nest as well in snakes belly.
BD
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Don't think I have ever seen a real snake. But we do have Tuataras and Wetas. They are proper dinosaurs and still walking.
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Don't think I have ever seen a real snake. But we do have Tuataras and Wetas. They are proper dinosaurs and still walking.
Never heard of a Tuataras or Wetas so have no clue as to what type of critter they may be. Do sound interesting though being proper dinosaurs like sharks, alligators and crocs and cockroaches.
BD
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Don't think I have ever seen a real snake. But we do have Tuataras and Wetas. They are proper dinosaurs and still walking.
Wow, Tuataras have three eyes!
I killed my first poisonous snake at just 8 years old. I heard my Mom scream I came into the kitchen to find out what was wrong. She was terrified 😨. When she regained her composure a bit she said that she reached into a basket of potatoes and a snake struck at her hand! I looked into the basket, yep, a little snake, about 18 inches long. I asked her "what's the longest knife that you have?" It had about a 10 inch blade. I picked up the knife and she said " No, stay away!" I ignored that and teased the snake with the tip of the knife and it struck the knife tip. I just shoved it down. It injured the snake and pinned it down. I then grabbed it and cut it's head off. She was still terrified and on the floor on the far side of the kitchen, unable to move. I said "it's okay Mom, it's dead now." I took it outside to see if the cat wanted it. When Dad came home he told me thats good, but don't play with snakes.
Most creatures I leave alone, but sometimes I must take measures to prevent mishaps.
My favorite tool on that day was a turkey carving knife! 🔪.
Hunter
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Well I'm going all in cordless so I gave myself an early Christmas present!
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Milwaukee. Nice saw and it is still a little way off to Christmas so you can indulge yourself again in 6 months time.
PS There is plenty of stuff on the internet about Tuatara and Wetas. They got left here when New Zealand as a land mass separated from Gonwandaland and left us such an isolated land. Because of that we do have some unique flora and forna and I think that could be why we have them. Better check up to make sure.
why we.awna
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Nope, still not a Channellock freak :-X
(https://i.postimg.cc/gjcSYW47/20210616-114300.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/47Mb5jDv)
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It took bantam5 to get us back on track with Lizzies thread. I reckon he knows the travelling rep for Channel lock.
WORKSHOP CLEANING.
Now workshop vacuum cleaners. I have two, one is a cheap Chinese one that is very much abused, very good and just keeps going. The other is a Nilfisk Alto. Twice the price and just as good. They have worked very well in a small self contained workshop, cleaning and coping with sanding dust. If all goes to plan, and it will, I will be moving to a much bigger workshop. the workshop will share space with two cars. I am not planning partitioning at this stage so I am looking at dust extractors. On the internet they range from compact to upright to huge. The ones I am looking at have 4 inch collection pipes and can shift 100 to 700 cubic feet per minute of air. I suspect bigger is better for shifting or filtering air and I am not looking to install an extraction fan if I can possibly help it. I don't know the volume of the shed but it is a big, very big two car and storage building with a mezzanine floor.
If anyone has experience dealing with airborne workshop dust I would appreciate any and all comments.
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It took bantam5 to get us back on track with Lizzies thread. I reckon he knows the travelling rep for Channel lock.
WORKSHOP CLEANING.
Now workshop vacuum cleaners. I have two, one is a cheap Chinese one that is very much abused, very good and just keeps going. The other is a Nilfisk Alto. Twice the price and just as good. They have worked very well in a small self contained workshop, cleaning and coping with sanding dust. If all goes to plan, and it will, I will be moving to a much bigger workshop. the workshop will share space with two cars. I am not planning partitioning at this stage so I am looking at dust extractors. On the internet they range from compact to upright to huge. The ones I am looking at have 4 inch collection pipes and can shift 100 to 700 cubic feet per minute of air. I suspect bigger is better for shifting or filtering air and I am not looking to install an extraction fan if I can possibly help it. I don't know the volume of the shed but it is a big, very big two car and storage building with a mezzanine floor.
If anyone has experience dealing with airborne workshop dust I would appreciate any and all comments.
I wish.
All I know is how to buy on Ebay.
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David... are those pins on a Boonie Hat?
There is a whole 'nother spin on "tool".
To me a "hat" is not a fashion statement, but a "Tool" to keep your head covered and the sun out of your eyes.. even hold items.
In my opinion, a true Boonie is the best. It has snaps on the side to raise one or both sides of the brim. a sewn in strap around to hold things like mosquito repellent, a pack of matches, super glue, or even your favorite fly's for fishing... even clip your Ipod to it and you have a "Musical Hat". ;)
Good ones have vents at the temples to help keep you cool.
And a chin strap for the wind.
For shooting I snap up the right side for a cheek weld and lower the left to shade the scope.
I have an assortment of them in khaki, grey, and camo... but this is "Old Faithful"... getting quite worn and stained... but is still my "Go To".
I have dozens of "ball caps" but always grab a Boonie for working so it must be a "tool".
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David... are those pins on a Boonie Hat?
There is a whole 'nother spin on "tool".
To me a "hat" is not a fashion statement, but a "Tool" to keep your head covered and the sun out of your eyes.. even hold items.
In my opinion, a true Boonie is the best. It has snaps on the side to raise one or both sides of the brim. a sewn in strap around to hold things like mosquito repellent, a pack of matches, super glue, or even your favorite fly's for fishing... even clip your Ipod to it and you have a "Musical Hat". ;)
Good ones have vents at the temples to help keep you cool.
And a chin strap for the wind.
For shooting I snap up the right side for a cheek weld and lower the left to shade the scope.
I have an assortment of them in khaki, grey, and camo... but this is "Old Faithful"... getting quite worn and stained... but is still my "Go To".
I have dozens of "ball caps" but always grab a Boonie for working so it must be a "tool".
USGI boonie in " m81 " woodland, made in the US by R&B inc.
The last American manufacturer of GOVT spec hats and caps in " M81 " woodland.
Been wearing a patrol cap every single day since my dad gave me the last one he had been issued when I was 12, but last year I decided to get a boonie for outdoor wear during the summer.
It honestly doesn't even feel like I'm wearing a different hat most of the time.
(https://i.postimg.cc/gJNtB4Dw/20210616-150747.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sQGJMYby)
(https://i.postimg.cc/wvmcDVr8/20210616-150823.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/DJ7XTqFB)
I'm not even close to being done putting pins in it BTW, I still gotta ad another hook or two and I've got a couple Case knives pins on the way.
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David... are those pins on a Boonie Hat?
There is a whole 'nother spin on "tool".
To me a "hat" is not a fashion statement, but a "Tool" to keep your head covered and the sun out of your eyes.. even hold items.
In my opinion, a true Boonie is the best. It has snaps on the side to raise one or both sides of the brim. a sewn in strap around to hold things like mosquito repellent, a pack of matches, super glue, or even your favorite fly's for fishing... even clip your Ipod to it and you have a "Musical Hat". ;)
Good ones have vents at the temples to help keep you cool.
And a chin strap for the wind.
For shooting I snap up the right side for a cheek weld and lower the left to shade the scope.
I have an assortment of them in khaki, grey, and camo... but this is "Old Faithful"... getting quite worn and stained... but is still my "Go To".
I have dozens of "ball caps" but always grab a Boonie for working so it must be a "tool".
I *think* they have some Boonies at the large military suprlus in Fort Worth, and I will look to see soon. If they do, and you want one, I'll pcik one up for you next time I'm there.
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David... are those pins on a Boonie Hat?
There is a whole 'nother spin on "tool".
To me a "hat" is not a fashion statement, but a "Tool" to keep your head covered and the sun out of your eyes.. even hold items.
In my opinion, a true Boonie is the best. It has snaps on the side to raise one or both sides of the brim. a sewn in strap around to hold things like mosquito repellent, a pack of matches, super glue, or even your favorite fly's for fishing... even clip your Ipod to it and you have a "Musical Hat". ;)
Good ones have vents at the temples to help keep you cool.
And a chin strap for the wind.
For shooting I snap up the right side for a cheek weld and lower the left to shade the scope.
I have an assortment of them in khaki, grey, and camo... but this is "Old Faithful"... getting quite worn and stained... but is still my "Go To".
I have dozens of "ball caps" but always grab a Boonie for working so it must be a "tool".
USGI boonie in " m81 " woodland, made in the US by R&B inc.
The last American manufacturer of GOVT spec hats and caps in " M81 " woodland.
Been wearing a patrol cap every single day since my dad gave me the last one he had been issued when I was 12, but last year I decided to get a boonie for outdoor wear during the summer.
It honestly doesn't even feel like I'm wearing a different hat most of the time.
(https://i.postimg.cc/gJNtB4Dw/20210616-150747.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sQGJMYby)
(https://i.postimg.cc/wvmcDVr8/20210616-150823.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/DJ7XTqFB)
I'm not even close to being done putting pins in it BTW, I still gotta ad another hook or two and I've got a couple Case knives pins on the way.
David?...my young brother...you have some COOL stuff!
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David, Some how I just knew that was a Boonie... not your classic patrol cap. ;)
Lizzie, thanks for the offer, but in the "Big City", we have G.I. Joes army / navy surplus.
I have been a patron of theirs for literally going on 50 years now. Dad took me there when I was a wee lad and he bought me a "Marine's Semper Fi" tee shirt ;)
Red T-shirt with a yellow screen printed English Bulldog wearing a drill sergeants hat on the front, and full "anatomically correct" rear view of the same dog on the back.
Seriously can not believe I remember that still today...
In elementary school, I could not wait for Mom to wash it so I could wear it to school again the next week....Yes, I come from "good stock". ;)
https://m.facebook.com/GI-Joes-Army-Surplus-184715005008020/?ref=page_internal&mt_nav=0
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David... are those pins on a Boonie Hat?
There is a whole 'nother spin on "tool".
To me a "hat" is not a fashion statement, but a "Tool" to keep your head covered and the sun out of your eyes.. even hold items.
In my opinion, a true Boonie is the best. It has snaps on the side to raise one or both sides of the brim. a sewn in strap around to hold things like mosquito repellent, a pack of matches, super glue, or even your favorite fly's for fishing... even clip your Ipod to it and you have a "Musical Hat". ;)
Good ones have vents at the temples to help keep you cool.
And a chin strap for the wind.
For shooting I snap up the right side for a cheek weld and lower the left to shade the scope.
I have an assortment of them in khaki, grey, and camo... but this is "Old Faithful"... getting quite worn and stained... but is still my "Go To".
I have dozens of "ball caps" but always grab a Boonie for working so it must be a "tool".
USGI boonie in " m81 " woodland, made in the US by R&B inc.
The last American manufacturer of GOVT spec hats and caps in " M81 " woodland.
Been wearing a patrol cap every single day since my dad gave me the last one he had been issued when I was 12, but last year I decided to get a boonie for outdoor wear during the summer.
It honestly doesn't even feel like I'm wearing a different hat most of the time.
(https://i.postimg.cc/gJNtB4Dw/20210616-150747.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sQGJMYby)
(https://i.postimg.cc/wvmcDVr8/20210616-150823.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/DJ7XTqFB)
I'm not even close to being done putting pins in it BTW, I still gotta ad another hook or two and I've got a couple Case knives pins on the way.
David?...my young brother...you have some COOL stuff!
Thank you.
I get it from my dad, we both love to acquire thi gs we think are cool but could really do without.
The only real difference is that I'm at the age where I try my best to use the stuff, eventually I'll probably get like him buying the stuff and only using it a few times ;D
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^THAT is a true BOONIE!^
Wait... no snaps for the brim?
Now you are gonna make me dig for the Mil-Spec number aren't you. ;)
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David, Some how I just knew that was a Boonie... not your classic patrol cap. ;)
Lizzie, thanks for the offer, but in the "Big City", we have G.I. Joes army / navy surplus.
I have been a patron of theirs for literally going on 50 years now. Dad took me there when I was a wee lad and he bought me a "Marine's Semper Fi" tee shirt ;)
Red T-shirt with a yellow screen printed English Bulldog wearing a drill sergeants hat on the front, and full "anatomically correct" rear view of the same dog on the back.
Seriously can not believe I remember that still today...
In elementary school, I could not wait for Mom to wash it so I could wear it to school again the next week....Yes, I come from "good stock". ;)
https://m.facebook.com/GI-Joes-Army-Surplus-184715005008020/?ref=page_internal&mt_nav=0
Sounds like a great place, we don't have any old school real surplus stores around here.
Theres one little place called Garrisons that still has some ww2 and Korean war surplus that was there when my dad was a kid, but the original owners out of town daughter runs the place and it's rarely ever open.
It's open so infrequently that I've only been in it 2 times in the past 10 years.
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We have a pretty cool surplus in Fort Worth as well. When the boys were young, Mike used to take them there and buy MRE's for them, which they thought were excellent camping table fare. There is a really nice creek on this place with woods along the creek and on the hill, so they thought they were really roughing it! LOL
https://www.facebook.com/OmahasSurplus (https://www.facebook.com/OmahasSurplus)
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^THAT is a true BOONIE!^
Wait... no snaps for the brim?
Now you are gonna make me dig for the Mil-Spec number aren't you. ;)
I never even realized that it had no snaps :o
I understand the utility, but never needed them though.
My brother on the other hand is the most redneck looking guy you ever seen in norcal, sloppy scraggly beard and an old worn out boonie with both sides snapped up.
A couple years ago he had moved out to where my sister lives and she actually had the audacity to buy him a new hat to replace his old one because she thought it looked bad.
You just don't come between a man and his hat.
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OK.. Now I am suddenly really P.O.ed!!!
Where in the heck IS my dessert Camo military issue Boonie I wore in Desert Storm now that it is time for it's photo op?
Found my BDU pants, shirt,even my double liner coat... but my HAT?
Where the heck is my Boonie from Uncle Sam that started my love for them!!!?
I bet it is in the attic for "safe keeping" with all my other old military stuff.
But it is much like this...
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/lzsAAMXQaBtQ~~6B/s-l400.jpg)
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OK.. Now I am suddenly really P.O.ed!!!
Where in the heck IS my dessert Camo military issue Boonie I wore in Desert Storm now that it is time for it's photo op?
Found my BDU pants, shirt,even my double liner coat... but my HAT?
Where the heck is my Boonie from Uncle Sam!!!?
I bet it is in the attic for "safe keeping" with all my other old military stuff.
But it is much like this...
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/lzsAAMXQaBtQ~~6B/s-l400.jpg)
Ah yes the " Chocolate chip " camo.
It looks much cooler than the more practical "3 color dessert " camo that replaced it.
Heres my first patrol cap, yes it was originally woodland.
(https://i.postimg.cc/DyNWvLNY/20210616-163324.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mtQZVzBQ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/HsFxDHJq/20210616-163356.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/VdB1nxWg)
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Ya think this one is any good ?
No snap, no vents, and no loops.
(https://i.postimg.cc/T2zwBf5Z/20210616-164657.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/RqT4HrRR)
Also it's a bit too tight ;D
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If you must talk hats then I have plenty. Pride of place are a couple of genuine Texas cowboy hats. You get no prize for guessing where or how I got them. Then there are NZ Hills hats. Then my service hats and then my walking out hats and my tamashantas and my genuine Cape Cod oilskin souwester and my sailing hats. And then my box full of home spun, home knitted beanies. And my Davey Crocket hat. You are all very lucky that I have not yet mastered the photo thing.
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. You are all very lucky that I have not yet mastered the photo thing.
HAHA LOL :D
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Let's get a bit more on track.
If you don't have a pair of these bernard patent parallel jaw pliers you don't know what you're missing, they are just so darn useful for holding grabbing and snipping.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Hx4cTLcZ/20210616-171519.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Q9Cxbhq1)
Originally made by W Schollhorn, Sargent was involved for many years before eventually his company bought Schollhorn and started to produce them.
Sargent still makes them in the US today, but they're $50 or more.
If the rubber grips and chrome plating are important to you then go for it, otherwise old ones are everywhere .
I picked mine up for $1 a couple years ago.
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If a hat is considered as a "visual / protection aid" and not a "Billboard Advertisement" nor "Fashion Statement" and servers a utilitarian purpose.. it is a "tool"... no?
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If a hat is considered as a "visual / protection aid" and not a "Billboard Advertisement" nor "Fashion Statement" and servers a utilitarian purpose.. it is a "tool"... no?
Definitely they are an extremely important tool.
I was getting too far off track though, I'd probably go from hats to jackets then boots ( boots are definitely an important tool ) and from there I'd go to belts and then I'd consider pants technically a tool.
I just had to cap myself.
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We have a pretty cool surplus in Fort Worth as well. When the boys were young, Mike used to take them there and buy MRE's for them, which they thought were excellent camping table fare. There is a really nice creek on this place with woods along the creek and on the hill, so they thought they were really roughing it! LOL
https://www.facebook.com/OmahasSurplus (https://www.facebook.com/OmahasSurplus)
My buddies and I used to camp out on the islands in our junior high years and my mom would buy us MREs at the base commissary. We loved that they did not have to be kept in the coolers and actually did not think they were that bad of a meal.
BD
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My brother used to buy cases of them to take for lunch at work.
They're just not cost effective enough to be eating every single day, and he eventually realized it.
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....
I just had to cap myself.
Good one! ;)
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We have a pretty cool surplus in Fort Worth as well. When the boys were young, Mike used to take them there and buy MRE's for them, which they thought were excellent camping table fare. There is a really nice creek on this place with woods along the creek and on the hill, so they thought they were really roughing it! LOL
https://www.facebook.com/OmahasSurplus (https://www.facebook.com/OmahasSurplus)
My buddies and I used to camp out on the islands in our junior high years and my mom would buy us MREs at the base commissary. We loved that they did not have to be kept in the coolers and actually did not think they were that bad of a meal.
BD
They really aren't that bad a meal in reality. They have the basics there, and meet some nutritional needs, but we (humans) tend to be so creative with our cooking, because we have the luxury of immediate access to food for the most part, that we forget that food is first and for most for survival and not for fun. For ore-teen boys on an outdoor adventure, they are part of the great story in the making! 😆
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We have a pretty cool surplus in Fort Worth as well. When the boys were young, Mike used to take them there and buy MRE's for them, which they thought were excellent camping table fare. There is a really nice creek on this place with woods along the creek and on the hill, so they thought they were really roughing it! LOL
https://www.facebook.com/OmahasSurplus (https://www.facebook.com/OmahasSurplus)
My buddies and I used to camp out on the islands in our junior high years and my mom would buy us MREs at the base commissary. We loved that they did not have to be kept in the coolers and actually did not think they were that bad of a meal.
BD
They really aren't that bad a meal in reality. They have the basics there, and meet some nutritional needs, but we (humans) tend to be so creative with our cooking, because we have the luxury of immediate access to food for the most part, that we forget that food is first and for most for survival and not for fun. For ore-teen boys on an outdoor adventure, they are part of the great story in the making! 😆
Oh so true lizzie. We were so busy roaming the islands and hunting that we did not have time or the desire to cook food so the MREs were a quick and easy meal for us that we could eat on the run or in our boats. We did not use tents but built tree houses and forts with scrap lumber from construction sights we scrounged up. We had them on several different islands we frequented camping.
BD
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Oh so true lizzie. We were so busy roaming the islands and hunting that we did not have time or the desire to cook food so the MREs were a quick and easy meal for us that we could eat on the run or in our boats. We did not use tents but built tree houses and forts with scrap lumber from construction sights we scrounged up. We had them on several different islands we frequented camping.
BD
That sounds like some good times.
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Yep Jerry
I had a great childhood with lots of freedoms to do pretty much as I pleased as long as I went to school and got good grades. I lived with a canal as my back yard with a 10 foot boat and outboard as my means of transportation to pretty much anywhere in the Cocoa beach, Merritt Island, Cape Canaveral area via the extensive canal and intercostal waterway system.
We explored all the waters of the Indian and Banana rivers for at least a surrounding 50 mile area from our homes. I pretty much lived on the water at age 8 or on a dirt bike when I turned 15 and got my drivers license.
I went to junior high by little boat and was camping on the islands every weekend from the time I got out of school on Friday till 6 or 7 Sunday nights. There was not much i was not allowed to do as long as I obeyed my parents rules which were not that strict as you can tell.
BD
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An enviable childhood considering the trust and confidence that was placed on you.
Second verse. Monday morning on the building site. " Hey Jake, what did you do with those two 6 x 1s ? They were there on Friday."
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That trust and confidence was hard earned from years of hunting with my dad from age 4 on up to 8 when I had proved I was responsible enough in gun safety to be out on my own. I knew where the line was and the consequences if I crossed it. I chose to obey the rules and enjoy my freedom versus challenge the line and lose the freedoms.
It was much harder to earn the freedom back than it was to obey rules and keep the freedom as well as be given even more freedom due to showing responsibility for ones actions and behavior.
Something I see severely lacking in today society and youths attitudes and behaviors. Its got to start at home period.
BD
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True words Mike...
I got my first shotgun at age 14... that is because i had an airgun since I was 8 and Dad (an ex-Marine) taught me gun safety... "sternly".
I would "disappear" camping in a WWII military surplus Pup-tent either alone or with a buddy for weekends at about 12.
One of my fondest memories of my Dad is when I went out, and an "unexpected" heavy snow hit that night...In the morning he went coming to find me, trudging in the snow.... When he showed up at the tent, and woke me out of the sleeping bag in the early morning, I thought I was in trouble. :-\
But you know what he did?
He taught me to start a fire for breakfast in the snow by gathering pine cones, making tinder and kindling.
Once the fire was started, he left and headed home... never said a scorn word.
I still, to this day, don't know how he found me. ;D
Gosh I miss that man.
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True words Mike...
I got my first shotgun at age 14... that is because i had an airgun since I was 8 and Dad (an ex-Marine) taught me gun safety... "sternly".
I would "disappear" camping in a WWII military surplus Pup-tent either alone or with a buddy for weekends at about 12.
One of my fondest memories of my Dad is when I went out, and an "unexpected" heavy snow hit that night...In the morning he went coming to find me, trudging in the snow.... When he showed up at the tent, and woke me out of the sleeping bag in the early morning, I thought I was in trouble. :-\
But you know what he did?
He taught me to start a fire for breakfast in the snow by gathering pine cones, making tinder and kindling.
Once the fire was started, he left and headed home... never said a scorn word.
I still, to this day, don't know how he found me. ;D
Gosh I miss that man.
Scott, you put a tear in my eye with that story. First, because of the memories I too had as a kid about that age being independant and fearless. Second, for a dad that allowed you you to be independent without scorn. My dad also came and 'found me' one night and said nothing but brought me home without anger or judgement. I'll call him this morning to check in and give him my love.
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True words Mike...
I got my first shotgun at age 14... that is because i had an airgun since I was 8 and Dad (an ex-Marine) taught me gun safety... "sternly".
I would "disappear" camping in a WWII military surplus Pup-tent either alone or with a buddy for weekends at about 12.
One of my fondest memories of my Dad is when I went out, and an "unexpected" heavy snow hit that night...In the morning he went coming to find me, trudging in the snow.... When he showed up at the tent, and woke me out of the sleeping bag in the early morning, I thought I was in trouble. :-\
But you know what he did?
He taught me to start a fire for breakfast in the snow by gathering pine cones, making tinder and kindling.
Once the fire was started, he left and headed home... never said a scorn word.
I still, to this day, don't know how he found me. ;D
Gosh I miss that man.
Scott and Firewalker
I can truly say that all that rings so true for sure. My father passed when I was 33 which is 32 years ago now and I still miss him dearly. He taught me how to depend on myself in any situation that I came across. It really came to light when he passed and left me the executor of his will ( my mom passed 5 years earlier ) since I had no clue what was truly involved in dealing with ones final affairs and it took a year and a half to complete the whole process.
I remember one of my first Ah Ohs when out exploring in my little boat at 8 years old when I ran thru stumps under the water and sheared the pin in the prop rendering the old 2 1/2 hp Johnson outboard useless. I was 6 miles from the house and had to row all the way home. I was about 6 hours late getting home and it was dark. My dad came out to see why I was so late getting home and when I told him the motor quit working he raised the motor up and spun the prop by hand and laughed. He had never showed me how to change the shear pin and then showed me the old ammo can he placed in the boat that had all the tools and new shear pins needed to fix the motor when that exact situation occurred. I never rowed home again and replaced many a shear pin in that little boat exploring the many canals in my area.
I just wish so bad I could pick up a phone or better yet go and talk to my dad. For those that still have their parents alive Please cherish every moment you have with them because once they are gone you lose a piece of yourself you never get back.
BD
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I'll call him this morning to check in and give him my love.
David, If it is not too late, tell him "hello" from me.
My Dad passed away when I was 19, I am already 5 years older than he was then.
Fathers day is tomorrow, I am going to the "Marble Orchard" to be with him in the morning.
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I just wish my parents were closer to me so I could visit them. They are both in a crypt in Arlington National Cemetery 1200 miles away.
BD
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I'll call him this morning to check in and give him my love.
David, If it is not too late, tell him "hello" from me.
My Dad passed away when I was 19, I am already 5 years older than he was then.
Fathers day is tomorrow, I am going to the "Marble Orchard" to be with him in the morning.
I spoke with dad just after dinner, he is well and is working on a 1000 piece puzzle as we speak.
Scott, I took the liberty of reading your posts to my dad, he chocked up and told me to tell you that you can be his son too if you wish and that Gods love is with him, you and I.
We laughed, cried a little and had a hard conversation about my my now dead mom.
I have a pina colada in hand now and a fire in front of me, life is very good.
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I'll call him this morning to check in and give him my love.
David, If it is not too late, tell him "hello" from me.
My Dad passed away when I was 19, I am already 5 years older than he was then.
Fathers day is tomorrow, I am going to the "Marble Orchard" to be with him in the morning.
I spoke with dad just after dinner, he is well and is working on a 1000 piece puzzle as we speak.
Scott, I took the liberty of reading your posts to my dad, he chocked up and told me to tell you that you can be his son too if you wish and that Gods love is with him, you and I.
We laughed, cried a little and had a hard conversation about my my now dead mom.
I have a pina colada in hand now and a fire in front of me, life is very good.
That is good, David. Life is good. I never knew my real dad, and my dad who raised me passed on over 20 years ago. I learned a lot from him, not all good. But not all bad.
Happy Father’s Day to all you Tool Freak Dad’s~
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I'll call him this morning to check in and give him my love.
David, If it is not too late, tell him "hello" from me.
My Dad passed away when I was 19, I am already 5 years older than he was then.
Fathers day is tomorrow, I am going to the "Marble Orchard" to be with him in the morning.
I spoke with dad just after dinner, he is well and is working on a 1000 piece puzzle as we speak.
Scott, I took the liberty of reading your posts to my dad, he chocked up and told me to tell you that you can be his son too if you wish and that Gods love is with him, you and I.
We laughed, cried a little and had a hard conversation about my my now dead mom.
I have a pina colada in hand now and a fire in front of me, life is very good.
That is good, David. Life is good. I never knew my real dad, and my dad who raised me passed on over 20 years ago. I learned a lot from him, not all good. But not all bad.
Happy Father’s Day to all you Tool Freak Dad’s~
Back at you and all fathers here.
BD
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Will you lot stop this. It makes me rake over all the good times and some of the faux pas that I have made.
And yeah bros, life is good, very good. Probably better than we deserve but I am thankful it is so good.
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Don't know if it was because of this thread or what....but this morning was rough.
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My Dad passed away when I was 19
Mine passed when I was 11. Never got to have an adult conversation with him but I know we'll spend more time together than we ever did apart thanks to Christ overcoming death and giving us eternal life, so this separation is only temporary and I look forward to reuniting with him and all the good times we'll have together. "He will wipe every tear from their eyes. There will be no more death’ or mourning or crying or pain, for the old order of things has passed away.” Rev 21:4
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One of my wife's favorite tools:
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I just picked up this 23ga pin nailer from Harbor freight.
(https://i.postimg.cc/qMsMXMSq/20210624-145351.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/6yQXBw9x)
It should prove relatively useful.
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I just picked up this 23ga pin nailer from Harbor freight.
(https://i.postimg.cc/qMsMXMSq/20210624-145351.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/6yQXBw9x)
It should prove relatively useful.
I like the looks of that model. I have used a similar but cheaper one. I had 18 gauge. I did completely remodel a house with the brad nailer and stapler. It was great for baseboards and eaves. I used a pressure regulator to set the depth of plunge on scrap wood. Usually 20 to 40 psi.
Now let's see a birdhouse!
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Okay, my fellow Tool Freaks.
Who makes the best regular driver bits? Just the basics....Phillips, Torx, Square...
Even if it's something I need to order online because I can't find it in my local stores, I'd like a set of REALLY good bits that hold up well.
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Okay, my fellow Tool Freaks.
Who makes the best regular driver bits? Just the basics....Phillips, Torx, Square...
Even if it's something I need to order online because I can't find it in my local stores, I'd like a set of REALLY good bits that hold up well.
For manual use in a bit driver or drill / screw gun type use ?
For a bit driver type situation the German Wera bits are well known for their quality.
The only bits I really tend to use regularly besides consumables in the screw gun are my Chapman set which I use on gun / airgun screws.
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Okay, my fellow Tool Freaks.
Who makes the best regular driver bits? Just the basics....Phillips, Torx, Square...
Even if it's something I need to order online because I can't find it in my local stores, I'd like a set of REALLY good bits that hold up well.
Most of the major brands(Bosch, Stanley, DeWalt, Milwaukee) of impact rated bits are good. But don't buy sets, too many useless pieces. Buy packs of 5 or 6 in the sizes you need.
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Thanks guys!
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Okay, my fellow Tool Freaks.
Who makes the best regular driver bits? Just the basics....Phillips, Torx, Square...
Even if it's something I need to order online because I can't find it in my local stores, I'd like a set of REALLY good bits that hold up well.
Can't go wrong with Dewalt or Milwaukee bit sets but make sure they are impact rated.
I use only ACR Phillips bits, they are made by many companies like IVY and Wera. I included a link to the bits I buy. They are screw grabbers and outwork any other bit by 100:1.
https://www.amazon.com/PH2-Phillips-ACR-Insert-Bit/dp/B00LI4WK6E/ref=sr_1_17?dchild=1&keywords=ACR+bits&qid=1624588576&sr=8-17 (https://www.amazon.com/PH2-Phillips-ACR-Insert-Bit/dp/B00LI4WK6E/ref=sr_1_17?dchild=1&keywords=ACR+bits&qid=1624588576&sr=8-17)
For a set of actually useful drivers, I suggest this one: https://www.amazon.com/Dewalt-DWA2NGFT40IR-FlexTorq-IMPACT-Screwdriving/dp/B07CT6NCZM/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=driver+bit+set&qid=1624589166&sr=8-8 (https://www.amazon.com/Dewalt-DWA2NGFT40IR-FlexTorq-IMPACT-Screwdriving/dp/B07CT6NCZM/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=driver+bit+set&qid=1624589166&sr=8-8)
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Okay, my fellow Tool Freaks.
Who makes the best regular driver bits? Just the basics....Phillips, Torx, Square...
Even if it's something I need to order online because I can't find it in my local stores, I'd like a set of REALLY good bits that hold up well.
Can't go wrong with Dewalt or Milwaukee bit sets but make sure they are impact rated.
I use only ACR Phillips bits, they are made by many companies like IVY and Wera. I included a link to the bits I buy. They are screw grabbers and outwork any other bit by 100:1.
https://www.amazon.com/PH2-Phillips-ACR-Insert-Bit/dp/B00LI4WK6E/ref=sr_1_17?dchild=1&keywords=ACR+bits&qid=1624588576&sr=8-17 (https://www.amazon.com/PH2-Phillips-ACR-Insert-Bit/dp/B00LI4WK6E/ref=sr_1_17?dchild=1&keywords=ACR+bits&qid=1624588576&sr=8-17)
For a set of actually useful drivers, I suggest this one: https://www.amazon.com/Dewalt-DWA2NGFT40IR-FlexTorq-IMPACT-Screwdriving/dp/B07CT6NCZM/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=driver+bit+set&qid=1624589166&sr=8-8 (https://www.amazon.com/Dewalt-DWA2NGFT40IR-FlexTorq-IMPACT-Screwdriving/dp/B07CT6NCZM/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=driver+bit+set&qid=1624589166&sr=8-8)
You like the dewalt bits ?
I have found them to be no better than the bits you get a large assortment of for cheap at Harbor freight, and will only buy them on clearance.
You're just paying for the name with the dewalt bits in my experience.
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The best drill driver bits. I don't know. I have a great box of them and the ones in the ready tool kit. I have no idea of the brands. They all seem pretty good to me and some of them are without doubt cheap ones. If they get the job done they are good. In fact I have more tools than I should have or rather more than I need. Only or mostly the power tools are bought new. I can't see the point of buying second hand ones that someone wants to dump. Buy new and buy good or at least fit for purpose.
Chisels and planes and hand saws I buy second hand because good American or British steel trumps Chinese every time.
The trouble with tools freaks is that the definition encompasses hoarders and collectors and I just might need thaters. I am finding that out as I am packing my workshop for a house move.
And paint. I am taking that as well. You just never know. And it keeps in tightly closed tins. If you ask how much I have stacked ready for loading I will not tell you.
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Lol Hugh! 😆
I can identify!
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And then I had to pack her garden shed!
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I have just ordered the other two Robertson bits Chapman offers ( among everything else I ordered )
They list the robertsons by model number with no size given, so I do not know which is the one needed for Crosman screws.
Once they arrive I'll let you all know which model of bit is the right one so anyone else looking to go with a Chapman set knows which Robertson bit to get.
I believe it's probably going to be their CM-63 bit, but I don't remember which I bought last time.
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The #2 Robertson for Crosman screws is Chapmans CM-62 in case anyone wanted to know.
(https://i.postimg.cc/15fQmPJB/20210706-172812.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BX9yNWWP)
I wanted the stubbiest driver handle they offer but they were sold out, since they're only $1.50 I just bought the standard and modified it.
Slip a washer over the shank, then clamp it in the padded jaws of the vice and gently pry the handle off ( the washer protects the handle ), next just trim the shank back and press it back in.
(https://i.postimg.cc/t4zQDTTX/20210706-174429.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QFVydj1P)
My current case obviously has no room for a second driver handle, so I'm probably going to get their master set case here soon.
It just uses the removable holders, so I can leave out what I don't need to make slots for the various drive handles.
(https://i.postimg.cc/RCtYXFsj/20210706-175840.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/G9czpc1Q)
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The #2 Robertson for Crosman screws is Chapmans CM-62 in case anyone wanted to know.
(https://i.postimg.cc/15fQmPJB/20210706-172812.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BX9yNWWP)
I wanted the stubbiest driver handle they offer but they were sold out, since they're only $1.50 I just bought the standard and modified it.
Slip a washer over the shank, then clamp it in the padded jaws of the vice and gently pry the handle off ( the washer protects the handle ), next just trim the shank back and press it back in.
(https://i.postimg.cc/t4zQDTTX/20210706-174429.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QFVydj1P)
My current case obviously has no room for a second driver handle, so I'm probably going to get their master set case here soon.
It just uses the removable holders, so I can leave out what I don't need to make slots for the various drive handles.
(https://i.postimg.cc/RCtYXFsj/20210706-175840.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/G9czpc1Q)
That just sent me over the edge. I first heard about Chapman here. I have so many tools it’s ridiculous. But I, too, like quality tools for a specific purpose. I’m sold, I need some Chapman tools.
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The #2 Robertson for Crosman screws is Chapmans CM-62 in case anyone wanted to know.
(https://i.postimg.cc/15fQmPJB/20210706-172812.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BX9yNWWP)
I wanted the stubbiest driver handle they offer but they were sold out, since they're only $1.50 I just bought the standard and modified it.
Slip a washer over the shank, then clamp it in the padded jaws of the vice and gently pry the handle off ( the washer protects the handle ), next just trim the shank back and press it back in.
(https://i.postimg.cc/t4zQDTTX/20210706-174429.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QFVydj1P)
My current case obviously has no room for a second driver handle, so I'm probably going to get their master set case here soon.
It just uses the removable holders, so I can leave out what I don't need to make slots for the various drive handles.
(https://i.postimg.cc/RCtYXFsj/20210706-175840.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/G9czpc1Q)
That just sent me over the edge. I first heard about Chapman here. I have so many tools it’s ridiculous. But I, too, like quality tools for a specific purpose. I’m sold, I need some Chapman tools.
Go for it.
Most of the bits I bought have been $1.50 each which is extremely reasonable considering the built in finger spinner, the ball detents, and the wings that keep them from passing all the way through.
Not to mention the steel quality and tolerances.
I started with one of the pocket sets and built it up, but in the end I should have just bought the gunsmithing set and swapped in the couple different bits needed for Crosmans.
That would have put me right where I'm at with less trouble from buying individually .
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NICE David~
Thanks!
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Those little ratchets you can put a bit into are invaluable to me. I have this set it is kind of "generic" but very high quality I seen the same set on a Snap-On truck with a blue handle... Could probably find the same set MUCH cheaper and still be the exact set form other suppliers.
https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/FTR7/7-PIECE-72-TOOTH-RATCHET-WRENCH-BIT-SET/ (https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/FTR7/7-PIECE-72-TOOTH-RATCHET-WRENCH-BIT-SET/)
While doing recalls on Polaris SxS there was one that needed a T40 bit to take off most of the fasteners and two were in an area you had to remove a roll cage part to remove them. Did not save me much time ,maybe 5 minuets at most in the end if I was being slow per unit, but the hassle of removing the roll cage part that then needed to be reattached and torqued was worth it when I had done what seemed like hundreds of these recalls. Sure I could have ran everything down to "German spec" or one ugaduga on a light weight 1/4 impact driver, but in the powersports industry a LOT people are far more picky that reasonable.
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Those little ratchets you can put a bit into are invaluable to me. I have this set it is kind of "generic" but very high quality I seen the same set on a Snap-On truck with a blue handle... Could probably find the same set MUCH cheaper and still be the exact set form other suppliers.
https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/FTR7/7-PIECE-72-TOOTH-RATCHET-WRENCH-BIT-SET/ (https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/FTR7/7-PIECE-72-TOOTH-RATCHET-WRENCH-BIT-SET/)
While doing recalls on Polaris SxS there was one that needed a T40 bit to take off most of the fasteners and two were in an area you had to remove a roll cage part to remove them. Did not save me much time ,maybe 5 minuets at most in the end if I was being slow per unit, but the hassle of removing the roll cage part that then needed to be reattached and torqued was worth it when I had done what seemed like hundreds of these recalls. Sure I could have ran everything down to "German spec" or one ugaduga on a light weight 1/4 impact driver, but in the powersports industry a LOT people are far more picky that reasonable.
Those are made by Lang tools.
I have 1 that Craftsman branded, and I know snapon also sells them as Blue Point.
I like the orange of the standard Lang and may have to get the set.
I do not really use the Chapman ratchet much aside from installing the trigger group on a Crosman 13xx, it's pretty coarse toothed and in general since I really only use the set for gun / airgun and fishing reel work it's never really needed otherwise.
I really quite like the tiny little topeak / power torque bit ratchet I carry in my leatherman sheath at work.
Nice fine tooth, low profile, smooth, and the power torque version from o'rileys is only $14.
I prefer American made, but Taiwan basically corners the market on tiny headed fine tooth bit ratchets so I'm okay with it.
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Neat little kit in a yellow box. I suppose I could get one here. Have to keep an eye out.
The voice of reason says that I have got by so far without one so do I need it? Well you know the answer to that.
I think I already have something similar but not in a yellow box. No, not buying.
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Bantam5s I love that stubby, I've been using a Brownell's stubby for a while, but they don't play real well with Chapman bits. Guess there's an order to Chapman coming soon. By the way, I use the Neiko 37 hole bit holders I found on Amazon. From Taiwan, well made and 10 bucks apeice. It is magnetic, but that's not a problem for me.
I have the old red padded case with my original Chapman gunsmith set.
:)
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Bantam5s I love that stubby, I've been using a Brownell's stubby for a while, but they don't play real well with Chapman bits. Guess there's an order to Chapman coming soon. By the way, I use the Neiko 37 hole bit holders I found on Amazon. From Taiwan, well made and 10 bucks apeice. It is magnetic, but that's not a problem for me.
I have the old red padded case with my original Chapman gunsmith set.
:)
I'm sure you'll be happy with it, but it's very easy to shorten if you want a true stubby.
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I'll probably give it a try. I was just on their website and an order goes out tomorrow.
Grandson duty tonight.
:)
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I just got this old Vaughan & Bushnell #99 16oz yesterday, now I've got the #999 20oz, #99 16oz, and a #9 10oz. ( actually 3 variants of #999, and 2#9 )
(https://i.postimg.cc/NFVCZRCB/20210709-175837.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/D4rcX4KM)
Now I've got the full 9 series hammer family , technically theres a 24oz version but with it's #505 designation I could exclude it if I want to.
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Here is a transfer punch set to perfectly transfer and center a hole in a part when you need to mount to another precisely. Position the part exactly where you need it, use the correct size punch in the existing hole to center mark the location to drill. Works better than drilling through the existing hole which sometimes damages it. (http://)
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The punch set. Now there is temptation to just give in to. Do I need it? Sure I do.
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Here is a transfer punch set to perfectly transfer and center a hole in a part when you need to mount to another precisely. Position the part exactly where you need it, use the correct size punch in the existing hole to center mark the location to drill. Works better than drilling through the existing hole which sometimes damages it. (http://)
What make ?
I may have to see if Wilde or Mahew offers a set.
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David, Mine are from Amazon and most likely Asian made. Google Transfer Punch Sets and there are American made ones at higher cost. I got along fine with this set as I use on non hardened tool steel parts that I heat treat later. A lot of heavy use would most likely be better with USA made.
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My newest toyz are Cutting torches.
In our new warehouse I had to remove a HUGE steel monster rack!
4 days in, 4 tanks of Acetylene, 6 tanks of oxygen, and still cutting!
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Next week Jo and I are moving to a rural village. Most people downsize at our age but not us, bigger house bigger garden, bigger lawn, enough to need a lawn tractor. . Time for a new adventure. The new workshop, primarily woodworking, is about the same size, or a little bigger. The shed is 92 square metres but most of it is car parking. I am looking at a dust extractor instead of the two shop vacs that I have been using. I have looked at the advertisements and the youtube videos. Still can't decide if anything that I can afford will be any better than what I have been using. Seems to me that the more air an extractor can move the better. That means 4 inch hoses.
I will have to do something soon.
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David, Mine are from Amazon and most likely Asian made. Google Transfer Punch Sets and there are American made ones at higher cost. I got along fine with this set as I use on non hardened tool steel parts that I heat treat later. A lot of heavy use would most likely be better with USA made.
I just want domestic regardless whenever the option is viable.
I'll look on HJE and see what they have.
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Jeff I can picture everyone inside sweating from the increased heat. Shame it didn't happen in the winter where the extra heat would be more welcomed.
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Jeff I can picture everyone inside sweating from the increased heat. Shame it didn't happen in the winter where the extra heat would be more welcomed.
I don't know what kind of weather he's having there, but if it's anything like the past couple 114°f days we've had I can imagine it being the worst time to be using cutting torches.
Just think what it must've been like at a tool works before there was electricity, it would be generally be hot enough already and I would not be surprised if one would close operations in the summer .
I cannot imagine what they possibly could have done to cool the place down and prevent heat exhaustion.
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The #2 Robertson for Crosman screws is Chapmans CM-62 in case anyone wanted to know.
(https://i.postimg.cc/15fQmPJB/20210706-172812.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BX9yNWWP)
I wanted the stubbiest driver handle they offer but they were sold out, since they're only $1.50 I just bought the standard and modified it.
Slip a washer over the shank, then clamp it in the padded jaws of the vice and gently pry the handle off ( the washer protects the handle ), next just trim the shank back and press it back in.
(https://i.postimg.cc/t4zQDTTX/20210706-174429.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QFVydj1P)
My current case obviously has no room for a second driver handle, so I'm probably going to get their master set case here soon.
It just uses the removable holders, so I can leave out what I don't need to make slots for the various drive handles.
(https://i.postimg.cc/RCtYXFsj/20210706-175840.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/G9czpc1Q)
That just sent me over the edge. I first heard about Chapman here. I have so many tools it’s ridiculous. But I, too, like quality tools for a specific purpose. I’m sold, I need some Chapman tools.
I was after I saw them and bought the red boxed set: https://chapmanmfg.com/products/8900-standard-set-12-slotted-bits
Has worked on everything I've needed a good screwdriver for and no banged up gun screws.
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Tell me about it...
Before I got my first pcp a couple weeks ago I was still building up a toolset for myself. Well the tool subreddit is dangerous for Tool junkies. TONS of names and specific products that are required to be “cool” with those folks lol.
Anyways I’ve acquired tons of Wera screw drivers and a ratchet, knipex cobra pliers and their amazing pliers wrench, some of Tekton‘s usa made tools and a bunch of their overseas made tools which are still very well regarded. But the Wera and Knipex specifically are worthy of being shown off lol. The Tekton stuff is just great quality affordable tools with a warranty that makes craftsman’s look weak.
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Tell me about it...
Before I got my first pcp a couple weeks ago I was still building up a toolset for myself. Well the tool subreddit is dangerous for Tool junkies. TONS of names and specific products that are required to be “cool” with those folks lol.
Anyways I’ve acquired tons of Wera screw drivers and a ratchet, knipex cobra pliers and their amazing pliers wrench, some of Tekton‘s usa made tools and a bunch of their overseas made tools which are still very well regarded. But the Wera and Knipex specifically are worthy of being shown off lol. The Tekton stuff is just great quality affordable tools with a warranty that makes craftsman’s look weak.
FYI their American made pliers are rebranded WILDE.
The prices are pretty much the same so it really doesn't matter which name is on them.
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Tell me about it...
Before I got my first pcp a couple weeks ago I was still building up a toolset for myself. Well the tool subreddit is dangerous for Tool junkies. TONS of names and specific products that are required to be “cool” with those folks lol.
Anyways I’ve acquired tons of Wera screw drivers and a ratchet, knipex cobra pliers and their amazing pliers wrench, some of Tekton‘s usa made tools and a bunch of their overseas made tools which are still very well regarded. But the Wera and Knipex specifically are worthy of being shown off lol. The Tekton stuff is just great quality affordable tools with a warranty that makes craftsman’s look weak.
FYI their American made pliers are rebranded WILDE.
The prices are pretty much the same so it really doesn't matter which name is on them.
Good to know, haven’t grabbed any of their pliers yet. Sort of high on Knipex pliers still I think lol. Also Tekton is based in Grand Rapids Michigan and I’m Michigan born and raised so I like supporting a local company.
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I have used Knipex pliers and side cutters for years as a mechanic since the early 80s and agree they are second to none in quality and durability. Mine are still going strong in 100% condition.
BD
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This is pretty much the entirety of my " air-gunsmithing " kit.
(https://i.postimg.cc/26SZgSGW/20210713-133133.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7Cjh2DpP)
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Got a ratchet wrench set similar to this today. Will save time and fatigue vs working in tight spaces with regular wrenches.
(https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=http%3A%2F%2Ftoolguyd.com%2Fblog%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2018%2F03%2FMilwaukee-Ratcheting-Wrench-Set-in-Trays.jpg&f=1&nofb=1)
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Got a ratchet wrench set similar to this today. Will save time and fatigue vs working in tight spaces with regular wrenches.
(https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=http%3A%2F%2Ftoolguyd.com%2Fblog%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2018%2F03%2FMilwaukee-Ratcheting-Wrench-Set-in-Trays.jpg&f=1&nofb=1)
Those look awesome! Milwaukee supposed to be making some really nice hand tools I hear.
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Got a ratchet wrench set similar to this today. Will save time and fatigue vs working in tight spaces with regular wrenches.
Nice score Gil.
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This is pretty much the entirety of my " air-gunsmithing " kit.
(https://i.postimg.cc/26SZgSGW/20210713-133133.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7Cjh2DpP)
NICE set, David!
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Tell me about it...
Before I got my first pcp a couple weeks ago I was still building up a toolset for myself. Well the tool subreddit is dangerous for Tool junkies. TONS of names and specific products that are required to be “cool” with those folks lol.
Anyways I’ve acquired tons of Wera screw drivers and a ratchet, knipex cobra pliers and their amazing pliers wrench, some of Tekton‘s usa made tools and a bunch of their overseas made tools which are still very well regarded. But the Wera and Knipex specifically are worthy of being shown off lol. The Tekton stuff is just great quality affordable tools with a warranty that makes craftsman’s look weak.
FYI their American made pliers are rebranded WILDE.
The prices are pretty much the same so it really doesn't matter which name is on them.
Good to know, haven’t grabbed any of their pliers yet. Sort of high on Knipex pliers still I think lol. Also Tekton is based in Grand Rapids Michigan and I’m Michigan born and raised so I like supporting a local company.
Where do you find Knipex brand? I am not familiar with that one.
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Tell me about it...
Before I got my first pcp a couple weeks ago I was still building up a toolset for myself. Well the tool subreddit is dangerous for Tool junkies. TONS of names and specific products that are required to be “cool” with those folks lol.
Anyways I’ve acquired tons of Wera screw drivers and a ratchet, knipex cobra pliers and their amazing pliers wrench, some of Tekton‘s usa made tools and a bunch of their overseas made tools which are still very well regarded. But the Wera and Knipex specifically are worthy of being shown off lol. The Tekton stuff is just great quality affordable tools with a warranty that makes craftsman’s look weak.
FYI their American made pliers are rebranded WILDE.
The prices are pretty much the same so it really doesn't matter which name is on them.
Good to know, haven’t grabbed any of their pliers yet. Sort of high on Knipex pliers still I think lol. Also Tekton is based in Grand Rapids Michigan and I’m Michigan born and raised so I like supporting a local company.
Where do you find Knipex brand? I am not familiar with that one.
Online. They are a German manufacturer who makes arguably the best pliers on the market. Though they aren’t really any more expensive than Channel Lock. Their most popular plier is the basic cobra water pump pliers (aka channel locks/groove joint pliers/water pump pliers) they are self adjusting! But they also sell the Alligator pliers iirc which are just regular manually adjusted “channel locks”.
Most everything they offer comes in choices of either black or stainless steel and then you choose regular thin pvc covered grips or their “comfort grip” which are a bit bulkier but supposedly more comfortable. I still only have the regular pvc grips on my 2 pairs, but I do have the cobras in black and the pliers wrench (check that out!) in stainless. I’ll try out the comfort grip on the next set I order.
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I'm kind of a WRIGHT TOOL fan and have yet to get into S-K, but I sure hope this doesn't spell the end for them.
https://youtu.be/hNP5UOfpiMU
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Thanks Dan!
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This is pretty much the entirety of my " air-gunsmithing " kit.
(https://i.postimg.cc/26SZgSGW/20210713-133133.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7Cjh2DpP)
NICE set, David!
Thanks.
I was actually looking to buy a tool roll from HJE, but they didn't have pictures for some reason.
Then I remembered I had the wrench roll from my USGI surplus Proamerica combo wrench set that was just collecting dust on a shelf.
Dusted it off and it seems to be about a perfect fit for these particular tools.
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Tell me about it...
Before I got my first pcp a couple weeks ago I was still building up a toolset for myself. Well the tool subreddit is dangerous for Tool junkies. TONS of names and specific products that are required to be “cool” with those folks lol.
Anyways I’ve acquired tons of Wera screw drivers and a ratchet, knipex cobra pliers and their amazing pliers wrench, some of Tekton‘s usa made tools and a bunch of their overseas made tools which are still very well regarded. But the Wera and Knipex specifically are worthy of being shown off lol. The Tekton stuff is just great quality affordable tools with a warranty that makes craftsman’s look weak.
FYI their American made pliers are rebranded WILDE.
The prices are pretty much the same so it really doesn't matter which name is on them.
Good to know, haven’t grabbed any of their pliers yet. Sort of high on Knipex pliers still I think lol. Also Tekton is based in Grand Rapids Michigan and I’m Michigan born and raised so I like supporting a local company.
Where do you find Knipex brand? I am not familiar with that one.
Online. They are a German manufacturer who makes arguably the best pliers on the market. Though they aren’t really any more expensive than Channel Lock. Their most popular plier is the basic cobra water pump pliers (aka channel locks/groove joint pliers/water pump pliers) they are self adjusting! But they also sell the Alligator pliers iirc which are just regular manually adjusted “channel locks”.
Most everything they offer comes in choices of either black or stainless steel and then you choose regular thin pvc covered grips or their “comfort grip” which are a bit bulkier but supposedly more comfortable. I still only have the regular pvc grips on my 2 pairs, but I do have the cobras in black and the pliers wrench (check that out!) in stainless. I’ll try out the comfort grip on the next set I order.
From all the prices I have seen Knipex is noticeably more expensive than Channellock.
Not that this is necessarily a bad thing, but they do certainly cost more from everything I see.
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I have a pair of Knipex electricans /linemans plyers from 1991 when I first got into HVAC/R service still work like new just a little scuffed up from kicking around in tool bags for 30 years.
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Knipex makes the best dykes in the world, one would be a "foo" to use anything else! ;D
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I will have to locate my Snap-Off brand channel lock plyers, that the Snap-On guy was giving away for Christmas in the 70's ;) 8)
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Knipex makes the best dykes in the world, one would be a "foo" to use anything else! ;D
Testing shows that there are tradeoffs.
I recently watched a test and the current Channellock 337 with it's more efficient pivot position took much less force to cut than the same sized pair of Knipex dykes.
When it came time to torture test on a drill bit however the pivot on the 337 which happens to be smaller did break while the Knipex pivot didn't.
Wear under proper non abusive use was about the same.
If you weigh the pros and cons the Channellock is more efficient and cost much less, the Knipex took more abuse, but both hold up about the same otherwise
Personally I won't be giving up my Channellock dykes, but I have been eyeing the little 8" bolt cutters from Knipex.
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Tell me about it...
Before I got my first pcp a couple weeks ago I was still building up a toolset for myself. Well the tool subreddit is dangerous for Tool junkies. TONS of names and specific products that are required to be “cool” with those folks lol.
Anyways I’ve acquired tons of Wera screw drivers and a ratchet, knipex cobra pliers and their amazing pliers wrench, some of Tekton‘s usa made tools and a bunch of their overseas made tools which are still very well regarded. But the Wera and Knipex specifically are worthy of being shown off lol. The Tekton stuff is just great quality affordable tools with a warranty that makes craftsman’s look weak.
FYI their American made pliers are rebranded WILDE.
The prices are pretty much the same so it really doesn't matter which name is on them.
Good to know, haven’t grabbed any of their pliers yet. Sort of high on Knipex pliers still I think lol. Also Tekton is based in Grand Rapids Michigan and I’m Michigan born and raised so I like supporting a local company.
Where do you find Knipex brand? I am not familiar with that one.
Online. They are a German manufacturer who makes arguably the best pliers on the market. Though they aren’t really any more expensive than Channel Lock. Their most popular plier is the basic cobra water pump pliers (aka channel locks/groove joint pliers/water pump pliers) they are self adjusting! But they also sell the Alligator pliers iirc which are just regular manually adjusted “channel locks”.
Most everything they offer comes in choices of either black or stainless steel and then you choose regular thin pvc covered grips or their “comfort grip” which are a bit bulkier but supposedly more comfortable. I still only have the regular pvc grips on my 2 pairs, but I do have the cobras in black and the pliers wrench (check that out!) in stainless. I’ll try out the comfort grip on the next set I order.
From all the prices I have seen Knipex is noticeably more expensive than Channellock.
Not that this is necessarily a bad thing, but they do certainly cost more from everything I see.
Unless they’ve gone up in the last month or 2, both companies sold 10” water pump pliers for about $30. But they channel locks are made in China now too...
Edit: Ok upon further examination it appears that channel locks are cheaper online. At Home Depot, they’re the same price as Knipex online. That’s what I was basing my comparison off of. But still, forget Chinese tools, give me Taiwanese any day if not American or German etc.
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Tell me about it...
Before I got my first pcp a couple weeks ago I was still building up a toolset for myself. Well the tool subreddit is dangerous for Tool junkies. TONS of names and specific products that are required to be “cool” with those folks lol.
Anyways I’ve acquired tons of Wera screw drivers and a ratchet, knipex cobra pliers and their amazing pliers wrench, some of Tekton‘s usa made tools and a bunch of their overseas made tools which are still very well regarded. But the Wera and Knipex specifically are worthy of being shown off lol. The Tekton stuff is just great quality affordable tools with a warranty that makes craftsman’s look weak.
FYI their American made pliers are rebranded WILDE.
The prices are pretty much the same so it really doesn't matter which name is on them.
Good to know, haven’t grabbed any of their pliers yet. Sort of high on Knipex pliers still I think lol. Also Tekton is based in Grand Rapids Michigan and I’m Michigan born and raised so I like supporting a local company.
Where do you find Knipex brand? I am not familiar with that one.
Online. They are a German manufacturer who makes arguably the best pliers on the market. Though they aren’t really any more expensive than Channel Lock. Their most popular plier is the basic cobra water pump pliers (aka channel locks/groove joint pliers/water pump pliers) they are self adjusting! But they also sell the Alligator pliers iirc which are just regular manually adjusted “channel locks”.
Most everything they offer comes in choices of either black or stainless steel and then you choose regular thin pvc covered grips or their “comfort grip” which are a bit bulkier but supposedly more comfortable. I still only have the regular pvc grips on my 2 pairs, but I do have the cobras in black and the pliers wrench (check that out!) in stainless. I’ll try out the comfort grip on the next set I order.
From all the prices I have seen Knipex is noticeably more expensive than Channellock.
Not that this is necessarily a bad thing, but they do certainly cost more from everything I see.
Unless they’ve gone up in the last month or 2, both companies sold 10” water pump pliers for about $30. But they channel locks are made in China now too...
Edit: Ok upon further examination it appears that channel locks are cheaper online. At Home Depot, they’re the same price as Knipex online. That’s what I was basing my comparison off of. But still, forget Chinese tools, give me Taiwanese any day if not American or German etc.
All Channellock pliers are 100% made in Meadville Pennsylvania, and the 10" #420 ( actually 9.5 ) is actually about $16 most places as is the V jaw #422.
Now the 16" #460 is about $30 most places , while the 16" knipex cobra cost as much as $75 depending where you get it.
I have no clue where you're getting your information from, but it is incorrect.
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Here ya go ( yes I keep the packaging for reference, I'm a toolfreak ), notice the flag and made in USA on every one of these Channellock packages.
(https://i.postimg.cc/QN1qsK2k/20210715-203705.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rzy4NsFK)
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As an electrician I used mostly Klein tools and Channel Lock but that was back when they were made in the U.S.
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As an electrician I used mostly Klein tools and Channel Lock but that was back when they were made in the U.S.
Channellock is still made in the USA with probably 90% of their tools, as are many of Kleins mainstay tools.
Their standard screwdrivers , their pliers, and their wire strippers are still made here.
It's most of their 6-1...ect drivers that are Taiwanese these days.
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As an electrician I used mostly Klein tools and Channel Lock but that was back when they were made in the U.S.
Channellock is still made in the USA with probably 90% of their tools, as are many of Kleins mainstay tools.
Their standard screwdrivers , their pliers, and their wire strippers are still made here.
It's most of their 6-1...ect drivers that are Taiwanese these days.
Thanks David. I haven't bought any of them in a long time, still have the old stuff.
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As an electrician I used mostly Klein tools and Channel Lock but that was back when they were made in the U.S.
I LOVE my Kleins! :D
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Here ya go ( yes I keep the packaging for reference, I'm a toolfreak ), notice the flag and made in USA on every one of these Channellock packages.
(https://i.postimg.cc/QN1qsK2k/20210715-203705.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rzy4NsFK)
Ok I was mixed up a little there. They do have a lot of Taiwanese tools but the pliers are all US made. However, the grips on some of the pliers were made in China until a few years ago when they were supposedly bringing that part of the manufacturing back to the US. Idk if they did in the end though.
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Here ya go ( yes I keep the packaging for reference, I'm a toolfreak ), notice the flag and made in USA on every one of these Channellock packages.
(https://i.postimg.cc/QN1qsK2k/20210715-203705.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rzy4NsFK)
Ok I was mixed up a little there. They do have a lot of Taiwanese tools but the pliers are all US made. However, the grips on some of the pliers were made in China until a few years ago when they were supposedly bringing that part of the manufacturing back to the US. Idk if they did in the end though.
Yes their code blue pliers handles are currently made in the USA.
The percentage of imported Channellock tools is actually relatively low, they're probably in the top 10 for percentages of domestic tools from American manufacturers.
Theres 10 Taiwanese socket sets, 3 Taiwanese wrench sets, some Chinese code blue screwdrivers, the Spanish adjustable wrenches ( same OEM as snapon) and their ratcheting bit driver is a rebranded megapro which is made in Canada.
Every other hand tool from Channellock is American made, from the pliers snips and dykes , to their ratcheting box wrenches ( probably by Lang ) , and all their acetate handled screwdrivers and nut drivers are 100% American made.
Even their 61A 6-1 screwdriver is 100% American made, most companies import the bits but Channellock doesn't.
Now I don't know if they actually manufacturer the screwdrivers in house , or if they are sourced from Pratt-Read, but I love both companies and have been pretty happy with the couple Channellock drivers I have.
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I have been quite happy with my Pratt-Read essentials series screwdrivers that are in the st-350, but no stubby drivers are available in this series so I'm thinking i will switch to Channellock drivers for this set.
I can get every size my P-R set includes, plus the stubbies this series lacks ( I already have the stubby #2 ) plus the 6-1 I've already got if theres room.
I might not bother with the precisions though, because I've got 'em in the st-350 box now and rarely need them.
I think it would be cool to have that much of the Blue in my house / go box.
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Excuse me as I go buy a pair of Irwin wire cutters....
https://youtu.be/6bnqFwAf7HM
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Excuse me as I go buy a pair of Irwin wire cutters....
https://youtu.be/6bnqFwAf7HM
If it was the stuff that was made for them by NWS In Germany maybe, but the Chinese Irwin's no way.
They may have done well in this test but I would not trust them to last over time.
In my experience Chinese irwin branded tools are just terrible.
Their hateful Vise grip abominations are terrible.
That's just me though, nobody can tell you how to spend your money.
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Excuse me as I go buy a pair of Irwin wire cutters....
https://youtu.be/6bnqFwAf7HM
If it was the stuff that was made for them by NWS In Germany maybe, but the Chinese Irwin's no way.
They may have done well in this test but I would not trust them to last over time.
In my experience Chinese irwin branded tools are just terrible.
Their hateful Vise grip abominations are terrible.
That's just me though, nobody can tell you how to spend your money.
I agree here.
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I just received another ( this one a bit older than my others ) Vaughan #9 " little pro "
(https://i.postimg.cc/QN90hztz/20210719-115151.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ThxrcCnj)
(https://i.postimg.cc/5tQ668Cf/20210719-121931.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sByVLQmL)
I have no problem with how their finishing their hammer heads today because they're still as high quality of a tool where it matters, but they definitely used to finish the heads a bit better back when it was financially viable to do so.
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Chapman Stubby update.
Planned on doing bantam5s' stubby handle mod, but I saw a pair of stubbies with 2-way bits for $7 and the description said they would take standard Chapman bits as well. Why not? Ordered a 2" extension as well as the replacement bits I needed and the 'medium stubbies'. Works great.
The pic shows the stubbies with the 2" extension and with a standard bit, the 2-way bits that are quite useable, the 'medium stubbies' and some of my Chapman kit. I am a happy camper.
:)
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Chapman Stubby update.
Planned on doing bantam5s' stubby handle mod, but I saw a pair of stubbies with 2-way bits for $7 and the description said they would take standard Chapman bits as well. Why not? Ordered a 2" extension as well as the replacement bits I needed and the 'medium stubbies'. Works great.
The pic shows the stubbies with the 2" extension and with a standard bit, the 2-way bits that are quite useable, the 'medium stubbies' and some of my Chapman kit. I am a happy camper.
:)
Now that's the way to go.
I think the 2" extension and those stubby drivers with the double sided bits may have been out of stock when I made my order.
It looks I'm gonna have to make another Chapman order here soon.
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It can be an addiction. Once you've got a 1/4" collection of bits, a few extra handles is always good.
:D
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It can be an addiction. Once you've got a 1/4" collection of bits, a few extra handles is always good.
:D
Same goes for 1/4 socket sets.
I started with just the WRIGHT tool 2426 ratchet, next thing you know I added the flex handle and the spinner handle, then I added the flex head ratchet and before I knew it I had all this.
(https://i.postimg.cc/rppybTnv/20210226-100957.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9DvjR6jp)
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bantam5s, I know what you mean. Just bought a set of 1/4 12 point sockets to fit a couple of bolts on the Harley. 12 points are getting hard to find, particularly in 1/4, which is my preferred drive [when appropriate], and I wound up buying the first Craftsman sockets I have purchased in many years. Quality seems pretty good, origin is questionable probably chicom. Wright makes good tools as does Williams, SK and a couple of others. The core of my 1/4 collection is SK, some of which I inherited from my dad and grandpa. If you don't have the adapters to go from square to hex and vice versa, they are must have items.
:)
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bantam5s, I know what you mean. Just bought a set of 1/4 12 point sockets to fit a couple of bolts on the Harley. 12 points are getting hard to find, particularly in 1/4, which is my preferred drive [when appropriate], and I wound up buying the first Craftsman sockets I have purchased in many years. Quality seems pretty good, origin is questionable probably chicom. Wright makes good tools as does Williams, SK and a couple of others. The core of my 1/4 collection is SK, some of which I inherited from my dad and grandpa. If you don't have the adapters to go from square to hex and vice versa, they are must have items.
:)
WRIGHT is quickly becoming my go-to, I absolutely love their contour grip ratchets.
Sadly S-K was just sold to a Chinese conglomerate, but they did also purchase shopvac with the intention to reopen the factory and continue the little American manufacturing that was left so maybe they understand that MADE IN USA sells tools.
Not that MADE IN USA for the mere purpose of marketing is great, but whatever it takes to keep American jobs is better than nothing.
They will probably start importing many things, but I am hopeful they keep a decent amount of domestic manufacturing.
If not well I'd really love to see WRIGHT branch out into the consumer market and step up to fill the void.
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Just got another older Vaughan #99 16oz rip claw in the mail, as expected with their excellent 1080 steel it should clean up great with a little wire wheeling.
(https://i.postimg.cc/25JsjNGb/20210720-123052.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Y46n8VJM)
I really just do not like " curved " claw hammers, and I actually don't own a single one.
The straighter rip claw just seems much more versatile, and nobody does 'em like Vaughan ( if you like Estwing, that's fine but I gotta have hickory)
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Careful with your miter saws because they're finger hungry. A guy just cut his finger off at my place while using his saw. I know another guy who cut several fingers off using a miter saw and didn't even feel it because he was cold.
(https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sipuk.co.uk%2Fmedia%2Fcatalog%2Fcategory%2FMitre-saws.jpg&f=1&nofb=1)
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Anyone know what this is?
I have one, found in a 120 year old house basement.
PS: I know... now you guess. ;)
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Anyone know what this is?
I have one, found in a 120 year old house basement.
PS: I know... now you guess. ;)
Something I wouldn't like to get hit over the head with :o
First guess-a lifter of some kind; like a manhole cover?
Second guess-a proprietary wrench, made to fit some sort of tamper-proof fitting?
Jesse
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All good to go now.
(https://i.postimg.cc/sD4G7RL9/20210721-195411.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nCMLfNpC)
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Anyone know what this is?
I have one, found in a 120 year old house basement.
PS: I know... now you guess. ;)
Some kind wire puller / stretcher would be my guess, possibly barbed wire.
You can see the head pivots and with the M shaped arrea in there, I'm guessing it would grip a piece of wire in there pretty well when the thing pivots.
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David... you "nailed" it... it is a barbed wire stretcher.
Dang... that was too quick!
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Well done David!!!! ;D After you described it,... it made perfect sense.
How long is it I wonder?
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18"... or foot and a half.
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Just ordered $90 worth of Channellock screwdrivers.
Sd10a 10pc set
Sd5a 5pc precision set
Stubby 1/4"
I've already got the 6-1 and the stubby #2.
These drivers are manufactured by Pratt-Read btw, they're the oldest American screwdriver manufacturer and I have always been happy with their stuff.
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Because I am still on the search for my favorite screwdrivers ( I definitely prefer hard handles ) I have ordered yet another screwdriver set.
I ordered a 10pc set of the Tekton hard handles.
With everything I knew I am pretty sure the shanks are made by Pratt-Read ( the Channellock drivers are P-R as well ) and the frn handles are very likely made by Wilde.
Pratt-Read does OEM a lot of cheaper screwdrivers because they're willing to make a cheap of a screwdriver as you're willing to pay for, but they also make some much better quality screwdrivers as evidenced by the screwdrivers they make for WRIGHT tool.
I am hoping Tekton has sourced higher end shanks on these.
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New saw today, the folders just aren't working for me any longer.
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New saw today, the folders just aren't working for me any longer.
Fanno makes great stuff, their factory is located about an hour from me and all the hardware stores who actually offer quality carry their saws.
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New saw today, the folders just aren't working for me any longer.
Fanno makes great stuff, their factory is located about an hour from me and all the hardware stores who actually offer quality carry their saws.
I'm hoping it's a one pull lopper so I dont have to undercut.
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New saw today, the folders just aren't working for me any longer.
Fanno makes great stuff, their factory is located about an hour from me and all the hardware stores who actually offer quality carry their saws.
I'm hoping it's a one pull lopper so I dont have to undercut.
I like it! I’d like to get one to add to what I have, I’d have the same hopes as yours, looking at the design.
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New saw today, the folders just aren't working for me any longer.
I have used both, and so far, the folders are better in my case. I currently use a Corona folder, but it's getting pretty old, and I need to find a new saw soon.
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New saw today, the folders just aren't working for me any longer.
I have used both, and so far, the folders are better in my case. I currently use a Corona folder, but it's getting pretty old, and I need to find a new saw soon.
People always say the Silky saws from Japan are supposed to be the best, but I have never tried one.
I have just been too happy with my Fanno.
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New saw today, the folders just aren't working for me any longer.
Fanno makes great stuff, their factory is located about an hour from me and all the hardware stores who actually offer quality carry their saws.
I'm hoping it's a one pull lopper so I dont have to undercut.
I like it! I’d like to get one to add to what I have, I’d have the same hopes as yours, looking at the design.
For $40, it was a good deal for me. I am sanding the handle opening though and throwing on a coat of tung oil.
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Anyone looking for a lifetime quality pair of branch loppers needs to look at a pair of these Hickok loppers.
(https://i.postimg.cc/8cfQSfBz/20210729-104214.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/K3bs7zH6)
(https://i.postimg.cc/qvTR1p43/20210729-104221.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TptfwMyd)
They were about $75 at the local hardware store and I was a bit hesitant of the price, bit I knew I just had to have 'em and they have proven to be well worth every penny.
Unlike a lot of hand tools these days they're designed to be rebuilt and you can actually get parts for 'em.
They also offer vine loppers, and you can get 'em with wood handles for a little less if you want.
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I just got an 'email alert from Chapman with a video link.
They now offer a palm ratchet, I'll definitely be ordering the set next week.
https://youtu.be/OKG_Irhb5P0
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I was gonna wait, because the set is $75 but it turns out you can get just the PR-13 palm ratchet individually and it's only $14.
I went ahead and ordered the palm ratchet , the stubby driver set with reversible bits, and the stubby extension.
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I went on a bit of a screwdriver binge in continuation of my search for a favorite, I ordered a couple of American Channellock sets ( made by Pratt-Read) and an American set from Tekton ( Pratt-Read shanks, nylon handles from WILDE ) and they arrived earlier today.
(https://i.postimg.cc/sXYxZdgX/20210729-114228.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KkYxdWLS)
(https://i.postimg.cc/zDwHyWyj/20210729-170309.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LhX87JBY)
The price was pretty low, and I am very impressed so far.
The handles are pretty similar to the old Snapon handles / current Williams handles.
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New saw today, the folders just aren't working for me any longer.
I have used both, and so far, the folders are better in my case. I currently use a Corona folder, but it's getting pretty old, and I need to find a new saw soon.
People always say the Silky saws from Japan are supposed to be the best, but I have never tried one.
I have just been too happy with my Fanno.
I have a couple of Japanese pull saws that are around 35 years old. They are wonderful saws, but their drawback is that you have to take care of them like you'd take care of your grandmother's fine china.
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David, m'dear.....by the time you are my age, your house is going to look like a hoarder extraordinaire lives there, with so many tools in the house, that there are only narrow passageways leading from one room to the other, and tools stacked up to about eye level. :D
(j/k) LOL
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David, m'dear.....by the time you are my age, your house is going to look like a hoarder extraordinaire lives there, with so many tools in the house, that there are only narrow passageways leading from one room to the other, and tools stacked up to about eye level. :D
(j/k) LOL
That's the plan ;)
I do give stuff away I'm not using or just no longer want, but I certainly keep more than I don't.
Luckily for hand tools I'm buying American as much as possible, so the higher cost slows me down some.
It would be so easy to buy way too much if I was just getting every tool from Harbor freight.
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New saw today, the folders just aren't working for me any longer.
I have used both, and so far, the folders are better in my case. I currently use a Corona folder, but it's getting pretty old, and I need to find a new saw soon.
People always say the Silky saws from Japan are supposed to be the best, but I have never tried one.
I have just been too happy with my Fanno.
I have a couple of Japanese pull saws that are around 35 years old. They are wonderful saws, but their drawback is that you have to take care of them like you'd take care of your grandmother's fine china.
Yes the traditional Japanese pull saws are generally pretty delicate.
Everything I hear about Silky is that their saws are very durable, long lasting, and extremely efficient cutters.
I haven't tried one yet though.
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New saw today, the folders just aren't working for me any longer.
I have used both, and so far, the folders are better in my case. I currently use a Corona folder, but it's getting pretty old, and I need to find a new saw soon.
People always say the Silky saws from Japan are supposed to be the best, but I have never tried one.
I have just been too happy with my Fanno.
I have a couple of Japanese pull saws that are around 35 years old. They are wonderful saws, but their drawback is that you have to take care of them like you'd take care of your grandmother's fine china.
Lizzie, I have no intention of hand washing this and storing it in the glass faced cabinet! ;D :D ;)
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New saw today, the folders just aren't working for me any longer.
I have used both, and so far, the folders are better in my case. I currently use a Corona folder, but it's getting pretty old, and I need to find a new saw soon.
People always say the Silky saws from Japan are supposed to be the best, but I have never tried one.
I have just been too happy with my Fanno.
I have a couple of Japanese pull saws that are around 35 years old. They are wonderful saws, but their drawback is that you have to take care of them like you'd take care of your grandmother's fine china.
Yes the traditional Japanese pull saws are generally pretty delicate.
Everything I hear about Silky is that their saws are very durable, long lasting, and extremely efficient cutters.
I haven't tried one yet though.
I have a Silky and it is JUST a pull saw, no push or it binds and it will NOT lop a 2" branch! This Fanno (Jap steel)is 'Da Bomb!! The curve allows for a deeper bite and the blade will not bind if you need a return stroke (push).
I wax the blades with bees wax before I put them away.
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Glad to hear that this Fanno actually performs better than the " golden child ".
Everybody goes around acting like Silky is unrivaled and practicality made of magic.
That's the same way people tend to act about Gransfors Bruks axes, but I'm not buying it.
Too many good vintage American axes that aren't ugly, have a more efficient profile, and will have ( when still in tact ) a much nicer handle with a proper fawns foot that flares out in all directions.
It's funny that people are so obsessed with GB axes and their general format that they are willing to believe a huge myth which says the creator of the Norlund axe line went to Sweden to learn how to make axes.
They actually believe this and that it makes Norlund the Cadillac of vintage axes, even though they were a budget tool made by METCO and sold in sporting goods stores to casual car campers.
They will even overlook the fact that the swedish axes of the day were the cheap imports which were offen considered inferior ( they're actually perfectly fine axes, just made affordably and not premium like today ).
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David, m'dear.....by the time you are my age, your house is going to look like a hoarder extraordinaire lives there, with so many tools in the house, that there are only narrow passageways leading from one room to the other, and tools stacked up to about eye level. :D
(j/k) LOL
LIzzie
David's only 26 so your right by the time he gets our age his house, garage, shed will look like yours and mine with tools everywhere in every conceivable room or location possible. I know from my 50 plus years of mechanic work buying tools I have tools I know I have but but have not used them in years and have them in tool boxes in the garage, in most all rooms in the house and in my 12x16 shed, in my truck and the wife's car, on my motorcycles and some place I cannot even remember anymore.
He's on a mission that will not end anytime soon or in the distance future I'll bet since he clearly has the been bitten by the bug of which there is no cure. A person can never have to many tools its just not rational thought process. ;D ;D ;D ;)
BD
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Lol. I think you hit it!
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David, m'dear.....by the time you are my age, your house is going to look like a hoarder extraordinaire lives there, with so many tools in the house, that there are only narrow passageways leading from one room to the other, and tools stacked up to about eye level. :D
(j/k) LOL
LIzzie
David's only 26 so your right by the time he gets our age his house, garage, shed will look like yours and mine with tools everywhere in every conceivable room or location possible. I know from my 50 plus years of mechanic work buying tools I have tools I know I have but but have not used them in years and have them in tool boxes in the garage, in most all rooms in the house and in my 12x16 shed, in my truck and the wife's car, on my motorcycles and some place I cannot even remember anymore.
He's on a mission that will not end anytime soon or in the distance future I'll bet since he clearly has the been bitten by the bug of which there is no cure. A person can never have to many tools its just not rational thought process. ;D ;D ;D ;)
BD
Absolutely.
My motto is " one day I will have more tools than I could ever need and still not have every tool I need "
Not so much that I'll never stop, but that you always end up needing a tool you didn't have.
I actually might have as many tools right now as my dad has owned in his entire life.
However I do not know how many of the bottom of the barrel tools he has used up over the years.
I plan to have as many American made tools as I can, and for every tool I own to really catch my eye and hold my interest.
When many tools are good quality and work well, I'd rather have the ones I think are cool.
Usually that means old school and or Classic.
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Altogether way too true I also have tools everywhere in my house, basement, garage, and yard shed ::) ::) ::)
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Glad to hear that this Fanno actually performs better than the " golden child ".
Everybody goes around acting like Silky is unrivaled and practicality made of magic.
That's the same way people tend to act about Gransfors Bruks axes, but I'm not buying it.
Too many good vintage American axes that aren't ugly, have a more efficient profile, and will have ( when still in tact ) a much nicer handle with a proper fawns foot that flares out in all directions.
It's funny that people are so obsessed with GB axes and their general format that they are willing to believe a huge myth which says the creator of the Norlund axe line went to Sweden to learn how to make axes.
They actually believe this and that it makes Norlund the Cadillac of vintage axes, even though they were a budget tool made by METCO and sold in sporting goods stores to casual car campers.
They will even overlook the fact that the swedish axes of the day were the cheap imports which were offen considered inferior ( they're actually perfectly fine axes, just made affordably and not premium like today ).
Gosh, I'm gonna disappoint you bigtime, my forest axe is a Harbor Freight. $12.99 :o
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I just feel fortunate to have been able to start my tool collecting years ago when made in the USA was pretty much all you could find in this country since you did not have the out sourced goods that proliferate are country today. Its is quite more of a challenge to source good quality truly made in the USA tools these day as compared to 40 years ago and the costs are far greater.
I have socket and wrench sets that I paid under 60 dollars for that are 600 dollars today and not near the quality as well.
I can say easily that one third of my tools are specialty tools made for one specific purpose to work on one specific vehicle or part of a line of vehicles. I have just about every specialty tool required to rebuild anything on a GM vehicle from the 80s to to late 90s before it became a parts replacement type repair scenario like it is today. When I started as a mechanic you could not buy remanufactured parts that you just replace and turn in the core you had to rebuild everything from the ground up. That required special tools to do properly of which I still have all of them.
Never enough tools in my home. ;D ;D
BD
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Glad to hear that this Fanno actually performs better than the " golden child ".
Everybody goes around acting like Silky is unrivaled and practicality made of magic.
That's the same way people tend to act about Gransfors Bruks axes, but I'm not buying it.
Too many good vintage American axes that aren't ugly, have a more efficient profile, and will have ( when still in tact ) a much nicer handle with a proper fawns foot that flares out in all directions.
It's funny that people are so obsessed with GB axes and their general format that they are willing to believe a huge myth which says the creator of the Norlund axe line went to Sweden to learn how to make axes.
They actually believe this and that it makes Norlund the Cadillac of vintage axes, even though they were a budget tool made by METCO and sold in sporting goods stores to casual car campers.
They will even overlook the fact that the swedish axes of the day were the cheap imports which were offen considered inferior ( they're actually perfectly fine axes, just made affordably and not premium like today ).
Gosh, I'm gonna disappoint you bigtime, my forest axe is a Harbor Freight. $12.99 :o
I have no clue who made mine since it was my dads and is easily 80 plus years old, I have never bought an axe in my lifetime due to not needing to replace the one I inherited from my dad.
BD
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Glad to hear that this Fanno actually performs better than the " golden child ".
Everybody goes around acting like Silky is unrivaled and practicality made of magic.
That's the same way people tend to act about Gransfors Bruks axes, but I'm not buying it.
Too many good vintage American axes that aren't ugly, have a more efficient profile, and will have ( when still in tact ) a much nicer handle with a proper fawns foot that flares out in all directions.
It's funny that people are so obsessed with GB axes and their general format that they are willing to believe a huge myth which says the creator of the Norlund axe line went to Sweden to learn how to make axes.
They actually believe this and that it makes Norlund the Cadillac of vintage axes, even though they were a budget tool made by METCO and sold in sporting goods stores to casual car campers.
They will even overlook the fact that the swedish axes of the day were the cheap imports which were offen considered inferior ( they're actually perfectly fine axes, just made affordably and not premium like today ).
Gosh, I'm gonna disappoint you bigtime, my forest axe is a Harbor Freight. $12.99 :o
I had one of their hatchets and it was a perfectly fine tool.
Not refined in design nor good looking but the steel was perfectly fine and it worked.
I no longer own it but it got a lot of use out of the thing.
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(https://i.postimg.cc/26q23hHB/20210801-163948.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ftNxrtQw)
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The PM14 palm ratchet arrived, and I quite like it ( the first batch sold out quick apparently).
Same lower tooth count as the CM13 ratchet, but much lighter back drag.
Put a bit in it and quickly spin just the bit with your fingers, the ratchet will spin.
(https://i.postimg.cc/m23kKxGP/20210803-094657.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/6y3BGmqK)
(https://i.postimg.cc/y85MPdrc/20210803-094702.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/NK6CGgtj)
I was wondering how they sell this for only $14 , it's machined from aluminum which is pretty inexpensive to work with.
Easy on tooling and such.
They also leave some tooling marks in it which is just fine with me, I kind of like it actually.
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I am really loving this new Chapman PM13 ratchet.
Once you break a gun / airgun screw loose you can twist it in your fingers and the ratchet provides a lot of centripetal force to spin the screws out pretty quickly.
Same goes for spinning them in then snuging them down.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Y2dVHqgR/20210804-192331.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hh7M8n2Q)
Anyone who already uses the Chapman stuff has gotta get one of these when they're back in stock.
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reminds me of my "vintage" SNAP-ON thumb ratchet.
Handy little bugger
(https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSuBUDraierIWm_U96jOlhFJ5E_ZTh0QkZN3w&usqp=CAU)
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reminds me of my "vintage" SNAP-ON thumb ratchet.
Handy little bugger
(https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSuBUDraierIWm_U96jOlhFJ5E_ZTh0QkZN3w&usqp=CAU)
Snapon , S-K, Craftsman , lots of brands / manufacturers had them over the years but they're not exactly the most popular tool ever.
These have a very old form of pearhead ratchet mechanism while most others use a roundhead mechanism, it has light back drag but no reverse switch and the tooth count is lower.
Luckily the disadvantages aren't an issue for s palm ratchet.
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I was digging around in my garage attic today. Must have been 100+ up there. I was actually looking for some aluminum disc targets that came with my Daisy Quick Skill BB gun which I have to get rid of. Anyways I found this old mitre saw in the original box from 100+ years ago. I knew it was up there but I hadn't really looked at it in a couple decades. I should clean out that attic and make it my man cave. Maybe it's already a man cave since it's filled with cool guy stuff.
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I was digging around in my garage attic today. Must have been 100+ up there. I was actually looking for some aluminum disc targets that came with my Daisy Quick Skill BB gun which I have to get rid of. Anyways I found this old mitre saw in the original box from 100+ years ago. I knew it was up there but I hadn't really looked at it in a couple decades. I should clean out that attic and make it my man cave. Maybe it's already a man cave since it's filled with cool guy stuff.
Very nice.
The Disston Backsaw does have the 1917-1940 handle medallion , so it could very easily be from the same time period as that mitre box.
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I'm quite sure it is from the same time period as the box. The original owner passed it down to his son and them it went to the grandson who was not interested in it. The grandson gave it to me about 40 years ago. I'm trying to sell off all my old stuff, unused stuff, weird stuff I've collected all my life. I don't want my wife to have to deal with it. If you have any idea what it's worth, please let me know. Haven't found a similar one with the original box anywhere online yet.
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I'm quite sure it is from the same time period as the box. The original owner passed it down to his son and them it went to the grandson who was not interested in it. The grandson gave it to me about 40 years ago. I'm trying to sell off all my old stuff, unused stuff, weird stuff I've collected all my life. I don't want my wife to have to deal with it. If you have any idea what it's worth, please let me know. Haven't found a similar one with the original box anywhere online yet.
I have no clue, I just remembered a few things from a little reaserch I did on the disstonian institute on a couple of saws I've got.
My opinion is that things are worth whatever people are willing to pay, I'd just put it on Ebay and you will probably get whatever they're going forthese days.
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reminds me of my "vintage" SNAP-ON thumb ratchet.
Handy little bugger
(https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSuBUDraierIWm_U96jOlhFJ5E_ZTh0QkZN3w&usqp=CAU)
Snapon , S-K, Craftsman , lots of brands / manufacturers had them over the years but they're not exactly the most popular tool ever.
These have a very old form of pearhead ratchet mechanism while most others use a roundhead mechanism, it has light back drag but no reverse switch and the tooth count is lower.
Luckily the disadvantages aren't an issue for s palm ratchet.
I have an SK version of the palm ratchet in 1/4" drive and I can say it was used very extensively when working under the dashes of cars as compared to a traditional ratchet. When you have to work where you cannot see being able to hold the ratchet and place a finger on the socket or extension to guide it to the fastener is a must have for quick easy removal or installation. I have had mine for 40 years and still use it today for many jobs.
BD
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Glad to hear that this Fanno actually performs better than the " golden child ".
Everybody goes around acting like Silky is unrivaled and practicality made of magic.
That's the same way people tend to act about Gransfors Bruks axes, but I'm not buying it.
Too many good vintage American axes that aren't ugly, have a more efficient profile, and will have ( when still in tact ) a much nicer handle with a proper fawns foot that flares out in all directions.
It's funny that people are so obsessed with GB axes and their general format that they are willing to believe a huge myth which says the creator of the Norlund axe line went to Sweden to learn how to make axes.
They actually believe this and that it makes Norlund the Cadillac of vintage axes, even though they were a budget tool made by METCO and sold in sporting goods stores to casual car campers.
They will even overlook the fact that the swedish axes of the day were the cheap imports which were offen considered inferior ( they're actually perfectly fine axes, just made affordably and not premium like today ).
Gosh, I'm gonna disappoint you bigtime, my forest axe is a Harbor Freight. $12.99 :o
I have no clue who made mine since it was my dads and is easily 80 plus years old, I have never bought an axe in my lifetime due to not needing to replace the one I inherited from my dad.
BD
There are very few tools I care about. Mostly I view tools as some kind of tool cost per my hourly wage.
I do enjoy hafting axes, sledgehammers, machinist hammers, hatchets.
I would love to fell a big tree with an axe. Just once. Pretend to be Paul Bunyan.
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I have done that a few times when I was younger and in much better shape Trust me a good sharp chain saw is the better way to cut down trees
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I would love to fell a big tree with an axe. Just once. Pretend to be Paul Bunyan.
I have done that a few times when I was younger and in much better shape. Trust me a good sharp chain saw is the better way to cut down trees.
That got me to thinking back to my younger days. I can't remember felling a big tree with an axe. I guess about a 12" diameter tree is as big as a tree I've cut down with an axe.
My father taught me at a young age how to sharpen a chainsaw and I can certainly get them spewing out big chips.
I agree with Don, chainsaws are way better. LOL
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I can say it was used very extensively when working under the dashes of cars as compared to a traditional ratchet.
Well, that explains it.
I spent a good amount of 20 years with my head on the brake pedal and my feet over the headrest.
;)
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I just received a #5575C case from Chapman for my set, in this case you'll get 7 bit racks and a plastic finger spinner ( already had one )
Their site says you gotta call them if you want the racks that accommodate the Philips bits which are longer, but I actually got 6 of them in my case.
(https://i.postimg.cc/sxcMYMDb/20210814-121948.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/wR1xHTNk)
(https://i.postimg.cc/26NygQ1P/20210814-122025.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/cKTdn8Mm)
(https://i.postimg.cc/4dvyGYtn/20210814-122049.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BL64cQmG)
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I can say it was used very extensively when working under the dashes of cars as compared to a traditional ratchet.
Well, that explains it.
I spent a good amount of 20 years with my head on the brake pedal and my feet over the headrest.
;)
Yep you must have been fixing the same issues that I was contorting into those positions to remove/install components you cannot see but only feel with one hand if your lucky. I have forced my arm and hand into places that were not big enough for them to fit and then have to struggle to remove my arm/hand to find it cut and bloody, but the car was fixed and I beat flat rate time so I made money. That's the name of the game and any tool that saves time makes you money.
BD
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A related subject! A few years ago I got an old wringer washing machine my wife snatched up when she saw it cheap. She had me go get it, and it was frozen up when I first tried it. The grease in the transmission had turned solid, so I cleaned it out and put new grease in it and it works great. I use it for washing greasy rags when I get done using my tools.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DAG1PAdgDZY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DAG1PAdgDZY)
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Found this little Klein 'Stubby Multi' highlighted somewhere and listed on Amazon for around 7 bucks. Had to have one. I was unaware that Klein had gone offshore. Hecho en Taiwan for Klein Tools de Mexico. Surprise, Surprise. Still a quality tool and a keeper. Handy little dude.
:)
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I have accumulated enough shop rags from 30 years in repair shops that I don't need to wash them, I just use till fully saturated and throw them away or let the rain rinse clean. I have at a minimum of 1000 or more stashed away for use and have been working from that stash for the last 20 years so don't see me running out anytime soon.
Good idea to use old washer for cleaning shop rags but only question is where does the dirty water get drained. I do put my dirty shop rags out on a wire rack for the rain to wash somewhat clean but do not use any detergent or cleaning agent on them.
BD
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Found this little Klein 'Stubby Multi' highlighted somewhere and listed on Amazon for around 7 bucks. Had to have one. I was unaware that Klein had gone offshore. Hecho en Taiwan for Klein Tools de Mexico. Surprise, Surprise. Still a quality tool and a keeper. Handy little dude.
:)
Mostly just electronic stuff like meters...ect, and the 6-1...ect screwdrivers.
The regular screwdrivers, pliers, and wire strippers...ect are all still American made.
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I just ordered these new 7" curved jaw malco eagle grip locking pliers FROM HJE. ( this picture is actually the 10" straight jaw )
(https://i.postimg.cc/rwbKfSCL/lp10reaglegripmalcolockingpliers.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hXLDjQ5C)
They are extremely proud of these being American made, and from all the tests and reviews ...ect I've seen they have every right to be.
They have consistently beat German, Spanish Taiwanese, and Chinese locking pliers.
The price does reflect the quality though and while they're not going to break the bank they aren't exactly cheap.
Besides with advertising like this, how can you not want them ?
(https://i.postimg.cc/zX3Nx3zC/EG-1200x630-1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
If you're not familiar, they purchased the original Peterson vise grip plant in DeWitt and even hired some original vise grip employees too.
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A related subject! A few years ago I got an old wringer washing machine my wife snatched up when she saw it cheap. She had me go get it, and it was frozen up when I first tried it. The grease in the transmission had turned solid, so I cleaned it out and put new grease in it and it works great. I use it for washing greasy rags when I get done using my tools.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DAG1PAdgDZY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DAG1PAdgDZY)
Im not sure how I missed this but I am dead certain she is happy to not have that mess in her nice washer.
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A related subject! A few years ago I got an old wringer washing machine my wife snatched up when she saw it cheap. She had me go get it, and it was frozen up when I first tried it. The grease in the transmission had turned solid, so I cleaned it out and put new grease in it and it works great. I use it for washing greasy rags when I get done using my tools.
Im not sure how I missed this but I am dead certain she is happy to not have that mess in her nice washer.
Yep, she sure is.
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Westinghouse made the same model for 100 years. Awesome!
Hunter
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I am not going to post about all my tools but here is what my SAE socket drawer looks like. Really there is 4 or five full sets on rails in there that I have accumulated so I should thin it out a bit because that is excessive, but if working on a vehicle I grab a set and don't pull out a single at a time anyway.
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I've kind of been accumulating American made 1/4 ratchets for awhile now, but it was a slow thing.
I recently realized I was actually collecting them and didn't have to plan on using them all, so I made out a list of American made 1/4dr ratchets to acquire and have been working on checking them off.
I recently acquired these 3 and have a 4th on the way.
An SK tuff1
(https://i.postimg.cc/x8Wf4Jyn/20211209-114640.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hQ1RJG55)
An Easco paintbrush handle
(https://i.postimg.cc/pTrPVYsP/20211210-160448.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8F22tW8Y)
And a Cornwell TR3, the number changes with the Black finish but it's still a TR3.
(https://i.postimg.cc/59HFnwfc/20211210-160520.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/RqBF0J3G)
I've got maybe 25-30 more to check off the list, and it's kind of growing.
There's a couple rare ones I'll probably never be able to check off the list, but I'll keep looking.
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I have more tools than I know what to do with. Vast majority are S&K, older Craftsman, Snap-On, MATCO, ES Tools... a goodly number came from DRMO auctions, a lot is hand-me-downs, and of course, all the stuff I bought over the years at flea markets, pawn shops, and estate sales. SAE, Metric, weird British standard, oddball one-off hand-made in a forge, I got it all. Most of my toolboxes and toolchests are in storage. I've given away more than I kept over the years, and modified some for specialty uses... and stuff still ends up coming my way. Neighbors retiring and wanting their tools to go somebody who "could make good use of them..." such as 400_ feet of oxyacetylene hoses complete with burning bar, 6 different torches and several sets of nozzles for each, turbo torches, Oxy-MAPP kits, way too much electronics equipment including several Heathkit oscilloscopes, some milsurp scopes... Don't even get me started on Xcelite tools. I still have my first set of TV tuning tools, including my PS-88 polypack set sitting on my desk- very small deepwell nutdrivers for working with weirdly-located nuts on lengthy stand-offs found on printed circuit boards).- from back when my father bought me a TV- some assembly required! Yep, was a Heathkit.
I mostly stick with woodworking tools now, though I still make some tools- o-ring picks and pin-spanners.
There's plenty of newer tools I love. I'm a fan of anything that makes a job easier- scraper-blade for my SawzAlls, modern Freud blades in sizes from 4" up to 12", 2 stacked-dado-sets I'll likely never use (including the set that disassembled my father's left hand when he was dado-ing an oak plank and came across a section of rebar hidden from view longitudinally in the plank), and the battery-operated stuff.
But when it comes to my absolute favorite hand-tools, I like my draw-knives the most. Two of them predate this country, and are legit high-carbon heirloom hand-forged antiques and they still see frequent use. A close second are my axes, the Kelly axes (A double-bit Flint-Edge and a Perfect Michigan-style).
Good tools are worth the money.
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Well anti squirrel. Where do you keep all your tools. A photo of your workshop would be interesting. in my case age has depressed productivity. It just takes me longer to do things and my desire to acquire more tools is tempered by my real needs and room to store them a strange rhing is that i now have a bigger workshop as of six months ago. I have more space but on looking for stuff my mind goes back to my my old shop. I know exactly where that was in that one.
Too wordy. Why did you bother ro read this?
PS. Incoragable hoarders.
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This one just came in for my birthday.
NOS Duro-Chrome ( indestro ) ratchet for the collection.
(https://i.postimg.cc/x1mf51D2/20220106-115215.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9DWHFVQ8)
(https://i.postimg.cc/j5xRR6Wx/20220106-115231.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/p96wZFY4)
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A related subject! A few years ago I got an old wringer washing machine my wife snatched up when she saw it cheap. She had me go get it, and it was frozen up when I first tried it. The grease in the transmission had turned solid, so I cleaned it out and put new grease in it and it works great. I use it for washing greasy rags when I get done using my tools.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DAG1PAdgDZY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DAG1PAdgDZY)
That thing works better than the POS LG fancy computer direct drive washer I just had to replace after only 3 years.
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My tool shed.
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Hugh- my tools are spread out in storage, my carport, a 12x28 shed out on our property in Buckingham County (about 2 hours from our house) just off the James River, a 12x20 shed here at the house, and my brother-in-law's. I've been consolidating, cleaning, and giving away a bunch of stuff lately- a younger neighbor who does lot-clearing using ASV skidsteers with drum mulchers offered to do some clearing for us, so I gave him a full set of Craftsman combination wrenches and a modest socket set. He had some mismatched tools so he was really appreciative.
I have a couple rolling toolchests but some things like the extra sets of sockets and wrenches end up in 5-gallon buckets. I also ended up with all my father's tools when my folks moved into assisted living. My sister's husband isn't much of a tool user unless we're talking bottle openers.
When I worked as a home service tech for Sears (from May 1998 to 2005-ish), I spent a lot of time telling paying customers to keep their older equipment operational and avoid anything with integrated circuits. I'd point out my avocado-green drier washer from '67 and the washer from '81- both came with my first house. Built to last and parts were dirt-cheap. They cleaned better, too.
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A lot of my tools I inherited from my grandfather. He was a retired supervisor from the GM&O Railroad and as I grew up in the later 1960s was my mentor for all things mechanical. The man could make of fix anything and was my main shooting buddy. He had been a gunner's mate on the USS Oklahoma in WW1 so he shot bigger guns than I ever will. He made me this anvil from a railroad rail, and it is my favorite tool. He along with his brother who had a full blacksmith shop in back of his country store was where they fixed farm equipment and guns and I loved to spend time there with them after school. It's the perfect size for gun work. (http://)
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I have really liked my Tekton hard handle screwdrivers.
They recently made the stubbies even shorter as well as giving the 1/4 a parallel ground tip, so I had to add the pair to my set.
(https://i.postimg.cc/xCJQsGsk/DRV40126-1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LYpG5PFR)
Now they're a getting ready to release a set of picks this month, and I am eagerly awaiting the notification so I can order a set.
They only cost a mere $20, so buying them is a no brainer.
(https://i.postimg.cc/sxsnBsZV/PNH90101-1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MM30NkD4)
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I also have 6 full tool boxes and cabinets in the house. There are boxes full that my son needs to pick up and take home to MO. too. I really have way more tools than I need now. :o I am planning on sending a bunch back to Idaho with one of my grandsons that does a lot of mechanical work too. The old wood cabinet was my friend's dad's (the friend died of esophageal cancer years ago), I put wheels on it that came off a discarded gum/candy-rack from the store I worked at to make it a roller. I have no idea how old it is but it is solid and the drawers handle all the weight that any tool cabinet would. The friends dad was a mechanic at the Buick, Pontiac, GMC dealer and used it as his tool cabinet for YEARS! I have mostly hardware in it.
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"this anvil from a railroad rail, and it is my favorite tool."
That is a cool anvil, I like it a lot!
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A lot of my tools I inherited from my grandfather. He was a retired supervisor from the GM&O Railroad and as I grew up in the later 1960s was my mentor for all things mechanical. The man could make of fix anything and was my main shooting buddy. He had been a gunner's mate on the USS Oklahoma in WW1 so he shot bigger guns than I ever will. He made me this anvil from a railroad rail, and it is my favorite tool. He along with his brother who had a full blacksmith shop in back of his country store was where they fixed farm equipment and guns and I loved to spend time there with them after school. It's the perfect size for gun work. (http://)
I need to talk to an acquaintance that works repairing the tracks for the rail road. He replaces bent and wore out rails here locally. I'd love to make something like that.👍
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That stock photo from Tekton doesn't show the parallel grind on the 1/4, heres a good shot of it.
(https://i.postimg.cc/wBX2C22t/20220210-104731.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sB25Spty)m
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I had a neighbor from Austria. One day he showed me his new Table Saw. It was really nice and I could tell it was probably expensive. I told him I just bought a new saw too. He asked what kind. So I told him - a Sawzall. He had no idea what that was. We went over to my house. I grabbed a 2x4 and started pounding nails in to it. I picked the saw up and sliced right through it twice. John said 'Stop don't do that. You will ruin your saw" . The look on his face was priceless. I said "John don't worry it's a Sawzall Sawz-Anything". I pounded some more nails in to the 2x4 , handed him the saw and said " here try it". He made a few cuts and started laughing. Two days later he showed me his new Sawzall.
I still have my Sawzall and the box it came in.
(https://i.imgur.com/4hqDkYu.jpg)
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Ah yes. Milwaukee Sawzalls.
I've had... maybe 6 or 7 Milwaukee-branded, a couple Porter-Cables, one laughably bad DeWalt (never understood why so many people adore DeWalt?) that had a melt-down, and even a Suzuki- which is by far the most ergonmoic model I've owned, but it EATS the carbon brushes. Works really good for tree-limbing, though.
My favorite is my "daily driver", a Super-Sawzall that has cut more lumber, metal, cars, decks, and tree limbs than everything else combined. Oscillating action, quick-lock for the blade, tool-free walking shoe removal, quick-connect power cord, and far too many blades. WAY too many blades. I've spent a lot of money on blades for Sawzalls and other reciprocating saws. At some point, I'm getting a Milwaukee Hackzall or whatever the little one-hander is called. I've used them but never owned, so maybe I'll treat myself sometime soon.
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I have had my Super Sawzall since 1991 and it is still going strong I just can't kill it
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Is it weird that I do not own a recip saw and have never even used one.
I've owned and or used just about every other kind of saw you can think of aside from crosscut bucking and felling saws but a reciprocating saw I have never used or truly needed.
I will likely pick one up at some point, but I'm in no hurry.
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I had a neighbor from Austria. One day he showed me his new Table Saw. It was really nice and I could tell it was probably expensive. I told him I just bought a new saw too. He asked what kind. So I told him - a Sawzall. He had no idea what that was. We went over to my house. I grabbed a 2x4 and started pounding nails in to it. I picked the saw up and sliced right through it twice. John said 'Stop don't do that. You will ruin your saw" . The look on his face was priceless. I said "John don't worry it's a Sawzall Sawz-Anything". I pounded some more nails in to the 2x4 , handed him the saw and said " here try it". He made a few cuts and started laughing. Two days later he showed me his new Sawzall.
I still have my Sawzall and the box it came in.
(https://i.imgur.com/4hqDkYu.jpg)
That was an expensive demonstration when considering the price of wood these days...........
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Is it weird that I do not own a recip saw and have never even used one.
I've owned and or used just about every other kind of saw you can think of aside from crosscut bucking and felling saws but a reciprocating saw I have never used or truly needed.
I will likely pick one up at some point, but I'm in no hurry.
Yes it's weird.
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Is it weird that I do not own a recip saw and have never even used one.
I've owned and or used just about every other kind of saw you can think of aside from crosscut bucking and felling saws but a reciprocating saw I have never used or truly needed.
I will likely pick one up at some point, but I'm in no hurry.
I own one, but have never used it. The hubs bought it back when we were building the house, and it's probably never been used more than 5 or 6 times in all these years.
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Ah yes. Milwaukee Sawzalls.
I've had... maybe 6 or 7 Milwaukee-branded, a couple Porter-Cables, one laughably bad DeWalt (never understood why so many people adore DeWalt?) that had a melt-down,
I have bought mostly DeWalt since I started buying my own tools about 20 years ago, and *so far* have had GREAT luck with them! I still have the first DW electric drill I bought, plus another one, two DeWalt battery drills, a mini battery op "circular" saw, a DeWalt "Saws-all", Chop saw (and there are probably a couple that I am forgetting at the moment). The only problem I have ever had was that I needed a new battery for one of the battery drills.
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Ah yes. Milwaukee Sawzalls.
I've had... maybe 6 or 7 Milwaukee-branded, a couple Porter-Cables, one laughably bad DeWalt (never understood why so many people adore DeWalt?) that had a melt-down,
I have bought mostly DeWalt since I started buying my own tools about 20 years ago, and *so far* have had GREAT luck with them! I still have the first DW electric drill I bought, plus another one, two DeWalt battery drills, a mini battery op "circular" saw, a DeWalt "Saws-all", Chop saw (and there are probably a couple that I am forgetting at the moment). The only problem I have ever had was that I needed a new battery for one of the battery drills.
DeWalt is acceptable up to medium use and good for the average home-owner. However, I've spent many a day on jobsites working with my years-old and even decades-old Milwaukee tools while the guys with the DeWalts were heading back to a tool vendor (Grainger, HD, LowDeWalts). Not saying they won't work- my portable table saw is a DeWalt... but if I'm depending on a tool for high precision and durability make income, I'm sticking with Hilti or Milwaukee. When I was installing garage doors and entry doors for a living, our employer supplied DeWalt cordless drills, circular saws, and impacts, and we had backups for our backups for our backups. He had a contract with a local DeWalt rep and every week or so somebody was getting replacements. Typical day was 6 hours of running a cordless impact, the rest was driving or cleaning up (could explain the nerve damage in my left arm!)
I'll add my brother-in-law is the tool buyer at Dominion Power. IE: very very senior in the organization. Employees are not allowed to buy DeWalt on the company P-Cards on account of the high failure rate. When somebody is a few hundred feet up a tower or working in remote locations accessible only by UTV or quad, tools have to meet very stringent quality standards that DeWalt simply cannot meet. Not saying they are all bad- I own several- but for heavy-duty commercial/industrial work, not a chance.
About Sawzalls and reciprocating saws... If you work construction for a living, you own one, plain and simple. Chances are you have 2 :D I've often pondered gettingt a twin-cut saw- these have counter-rotating blades stacked, and make some nifty cuts. I do have a toe-kick saw but it i likely my least-used saw; even less-so than my bucksaws, of which I have 3. 2 1-man and 1 two-man. One of those I use regularly and lemme tll ya, I respect it every bit as much as my chainsaws. One slip or "oops" is gonna cause a lot of pain.
I liken DeWalt to be the Benjamin Marauder of tools. I just prefer my EdGun-durable Milwaukee stuff :D
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I want to get one of these REXBETI Metal Nibbler Drill or Impact Attachment
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZqqUle5ljQ8 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZqqUle5ljQ8)
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I bought this on Black Friday a few years ago. I did not use it for over a year.
Since then I have used it at least once a week.
(https://i.imgur.com/VkS7g2q.jpg)
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Bosch, Makita, Dewalt, Milwaukee... all the major brands have different "levels" of the same product.
QC at the industrial level segregates the difference by run and who the final seller is by QUALITY.
You buy one from the "Big Box Store" at a cheaper price... you are getting the lower level.
The old addage "You get what you pay for" has never been more true.
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I have Japanese Makita cordless hand tools, the BL line is very light weight and serves me well. I am a Makita fan-boy, I'm afraid. ::)
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I have Japanese Makita cordless hand tools, the BL line is very light weight and serves me well. I am a Makita fan-boy, I'm afraid. ::)
Makita power tools are very hard to kill and parts are readily available.
It is what we used when we had a sister company (construction) in the Philippines.
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I needed my sawzall today but couldn't find it then realized I left it at my neighbor's place awhile back. Hopefully his pets haven't chewed the cord or peed/pooped on it. I used my skill saw instead and got the job done.
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I have Japanese Makita cordless hand tools, the BL line is very light weight and serves me well. I am a Makita fan-boy, I'm afraid. ::)
Makita power tools are very hard to kill and parts are readily available.
It is what we used when we had a sister company (construction) in the Philippines.
My old blue dinosaur finally died on me a couple years ago, and it technically still worked too.
The switch went with the drill stuck in reverse, the red Mexican made battery had long since died but the original black Japanese NIMH battery was still working.
I called it the blue dinosaur because it was a big heavy beast from the late 90's.
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I have a reciprocating saw. I think it is the thing that I call a demolition saw. Mine is a "Works" brand. I don't know who actually made them. Chinese you can bet. It was an in house brand for Mitre10 hardware stores. It was not very expensive but it has turned out to be very tough. It has demolished walls, cut steel bolts and nails and hefty tree roots and just keeps on going.
Definitely not a precision tool but gets the rough jobs done. With a demolition blade it even cuts around corners. Very handy indeed.
It looks like the Sawsall.
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Hopefully his pets haven't chewed the cord
Yep that happened so no more lending tools to him long term either. Good thing is he's paying me back for the new saw I'm having to buy.
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Hopefully his pets haven't chewed the cord
Yep that happened so no more lending tools to him long term either. Good thing is he's paying me back for the new saw I'm having to buy.
When my dog Hank chewed the vacuum cleaner cord into 1'-1 1/2' pieces when he was a teething puppy, I just replaced the cord. I already had a cord from some other failed item since I always salvaged the good stuff that could be used for future repairs. The cord I put on it was 10' longer than the original which we were happy about too. It was a hard wired cord so I had to take the vacuum apart to install it. I do think it's great that he is paying for the new saw though, because it was in his care.
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I bought this on Black Friday a few years ago. I did not use it for over a year.
Since then I have used it at least once a week.
(https://i.imgur.com/VkS7g2q.jpg)
I have the rotorazor saw that my dad foolishly bought off TV last year for my birthday, I would never have bought such a thing but I forced myself to give it a real chance and will say that it has proven pretty handy.
These mini circ saws are better than a corded jigsaw for straight cuts , and more convenient that my old Skillsaw circ for quick minor stuff.
These small circs are kind of a hobbyists saw that should be well received by anyone who appreciates a dremel or any other electric rotary tool, but they can be useful if someone doesn't just write them off.
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Yep I keep those dremel cutting wheels stocked up because they can wear out quick, plus they have saved my bacon more than once where nothing else would have worked.
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I must confess, I did it again!
What did I do, you will ask... Well, a couple of months ago I wanted to change the seals on my newly acquired Ted Williams Crosman 150. In the process of extracting the valve - without previously removing the little plug/stop ring - I figured if I tap the opposite end, the valve will slide out. Initially I had the compression tube cap threaded in and using a delrin mallot I gently hit it. The valve started to slide out so I was feeling pretty good about the entire process. I took the cap off, looked down the tube and the valve was indeed sliding off, only an inch or so and it was out! Granted, I was tired after a double shift in the "salt mines" and I wasn't thinking straight so I continued tapping the threaded end but this time without the cap on. As you would expect, I bent the holy bejesus out of the threads, part of them were rolled over... In a brief moment of clarity I contacted @nervoustrigger (Jason) and asked him if he could help. He graciously agreed to give it a try and indeed he did a wonderful job in restoring the threads.
I am telling you folks this story because recently I had an attack of stupid and did it again with another Cr150. This time I stopped after I messed up the threads just enough to stop the cap from threading onto the compression tube. And now the reason I am posting my story in this thread! I went searching for a thread file, an item Jason mentioned when I contacted him initially. I found a most wonderful tool instead, more expensive than a thread file, true, but something even I can use without causing too much damage - I found a Universal Thread Chaser! I just received it today curtesy of Amazon Prime and within ten minutes the threads are restored and life is good again. Here is a link to this most excellent tool https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D8WJ4RC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D8WJ4RC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
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I've been waiting for Tekton to release this pick set since I got the notification a couple weeks back, they just released them today and I have a set on the way to me for a grand total of $18.03 shipped ( they're $20 but i had some Tekton rewards points )
(https://i.postimg.cc/pT12cZNK/PNH90101-1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tZWQYF4g)
You can spend under $5 for Chinese garbage all the way up to Snap-on and everywhere in between.
These are extremely affordable, American made, and have great handles.
You can also go with the 4pc Channellock set for as little as $11+ shipping, I'm probably going to get some to go with my Channellock driver set.
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The handle steel on the older Bernard parallel jaw pliers is a mild steel of some kind that rusts much easier than the very good steel used for the jaws.
They got a thorough covering of some brown surfaces rust so cleaned them up and threw on some spray paint I had laying around.
(https://i.postimg.cc/9FPF4Mq5/20220224-124154.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SJsp3mrD)
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i made my own tool for opening Crosman pumper valves.
I used a 2 piece 5/8" flat-sided shaft collar with a 3/8 dog point set screw thru 1 side.
The nose of the set screw locates into the exhaust port, while the nose is held in a 5/8: collet on my lathe.
The flat sides make wrenching the collar easy to unscrew the valve body.
Not too shabby.........
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I needed a standard 10" long handle 3/8 ratchet since currently my only long handle 3/8 is a PROTO flex head my dad gave me as a teenager , it's great but flex heads aren't appropriate for everything.
It absolutely had to be American made no exceptions, and I didn't want to spend more than $75 new or used.
I thought about the PROTO 75250 for $45, I thought about the WILLIAMS B-52EHLA for $45, But settled on the WRIGHT 3425 for $70.
It was more, but their contour grip is my absolute favorite and I really like their dual pawl 42 tooth 84 position mechanism.
(https://i.postimg.cc/NfvMnM6Z/3425.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I've been looking to try a modern William's ratchet, but I'll probably just add one to my 1/4 ratchet collection.
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Proto ranks up there with my ES Tools. Very nice hand-feel and durable. It meets Mil-Spec and my main tool bag on the sub was nothing but ES and Proto.
I've been using the bejesus out of one of my older draw-knives. Older meaning 1880s- one of my ancestors forged it on his farm :D I used it for fitting a couple axe heads to spare handles over the last few days. I also seem to use my new Svord knife non-stop. I recently bought a Ryobi inflator that uses 18v batteries. I've already used it a number of times- it means I don't have to drag out the generator first thing when we arrive out on our property. Also got the other type of inflator- used for blowing up floats, rafts etc- we use it on our Bote and it works superb. Instead of 10 minutes with a handpump, it's a minute and some change.
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Proto ranks up there with my ES Tools. Very nice hand-feel and durable. It meets Mil-Spec and my main tool bag on the sub was nothing but ES and Proto.
I've been using the bejesus out of one of my older draw-knives. Older meaning 1880s- one of my ancestors forged it on his farm :D I used it for fitting a couple axe heads to spare handles over the last few days. I also seem to use my new Svord knife non-stop. I recently bought a Ryobi inflator that uses 18v batteries. I've already used it a number of times- it means I don't have to drag out the generator first thing when we arrive out on our property. Also got the other type of inflator- used for blowing up floats, rafts etc- we use it on our Bote and it works superb. Instead of 10 minutes with a handpump, it's a minute and some change.
I quite like PROTO too, their recent XL series " premium pear head ratchets " are so dang nice.
(https://i.postimg.cc/W4PDbgdb/20220725-132334.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mP8Zmc30)
Not the highest tooth count unless you buy the more expensive versions, but the teeth a very fine the ratchets are buttery smooth and the backdrag is very light.
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I like ES and Proto for the same reasons I love my very first combination wrench set (made by Montgomery Ward)- no sharp edges to bite into oil-slick hands. No corners to dig into cold palms. Unlike several very popular brands of wrenches.
David, they're legacy-grade tools. My father was going to give me a Proto set of nut-drivers and I used them frequently whenever I'd visit- then ended up given them to my brother-in-law (sister's husband) when I said I had more tools than I can possibly use. They're superlative- I'd say every bit as good as my Excelite nut-drivers though the Excelite set has longer handles and a deeper throat (hence why I passed on the Proto).
Dunno if you've worked with any ES tools- the combination wrenches are what I reach for when I have a stubborn bolt or nut. A phat flange, robust shoulders, smooth finish and no sharp edges, they have a superlative fit on hardware. The only trade-off is they are not good for tight spaces.
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I like ES and Proto for the same reasons I love my very first combination wrench set (made by Montgomery Ward)- no sharp edges to bite into oil-slick hands. No corners to dig into cold palms. Unlike several very popular brands of wrenches.
David, they're legacy-grade tools. My father was going to give me a Proto set of nut-drivers and I used them frequently whenever I'd visit- then ended up given them to my brother-in-law (sister's husband) when I said I had more tools than I can possibly use. They're superlative- I'd say every bit as good as my Excelite nut-drivers though the Excelite set has longer handles and a deeper throat (hence why I passed on the Proto).
Dunno if you've worked with any ES tools- the combination wrenches are what I reach for when I have a stubborn bolt or nut. A phat flange, robust shoulders, smooth finish and no sharp edges, they have a superlative fit on hardware. The only trade-off is they are not good for tight spaces.
Many of the monkey wards Powr-Kraft ratchets were made by WRIGHT, but they also had many made by Duro/Indestro like their top of the line 100 series.
I believe most of the wrenches were Duro/indestro but Thorsen also made some.
Thorsen made some very nice wrenches that are often underrated today.
I'm not particularly familiar with ES tools, but for some reason I have it in my head that they were made by Enderes who's claim to fame was making the Roughest screwdrivers you could buy.
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(https://i.postimg.cc/tgzWqS4h/20221020-121621.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/VSdd4FM6)
(https://i.postimg.cc/PqH1ksTX/20221020-121722.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/K191nW1w)
Btw the Enderes screwdrivers were thr toughest, not the roughest.
They often had hardware displays with one of their screwdrivers that was driven through a piece of steel.
The early Stanley 100 plus had a good reputation as well with the boron steel.
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You're describing most of the tools in my toolboxes. Sure, I have some Snap-On, Matco, Craftsman... even some Pittsburgh stuff (HFT)... but when I'm putting some torque on fasteners (like I was today putting the truck's bed back on) I want tools I can yoink on without busting my knuckles.
I have favorites for each type... like Wico for high-voltage screwdrivers, Excelite for nut-drivers, ES Tools for combinations wrenches, Matco for service wrenches (short-handle for a cheater pipe), Channellock for slip-joint pliers, Bondhus and Park for Allen wrenches, Klein for electrician pliers (and the knife-scissor combo). I also have a number of onesy-twosy combination wrenches from Duro/Indestro, Thorsen (especially 8-point sockets) from DRMO auctions back when I was active duty- it was BRAC Commission time and a number of nearby bases were getting shut down- tools sold at pennies to the hundreds-of-dollars.
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You're describing most of the tools in my toolboxes. Sure, I have some Snap-On, Matco, Craftsman... even some Pittsburgh stuff (HFT)... but when I'm putting some torque on fasteners (like I was today putting the truck's bed back on) I want tools I can yoink on without busting my knuckles.
I have favorites for each type... like Wico for high-voltage screwdrivers, Excelite for nut-drivers, ES Tools for combinations wrenches, Matco for service wrenches (short-handle for a cheater pipe), Channellock for slip-joint pliers, Bondhus and Park for Allen wrenches, Klein for electrician pliers (and the knife-scissor combo). I also have a number of onesy-twosy combination wrenches from Duro/Indestro, Thorsen (especially 8-point sockets) from DRMO auctions back when I was active duty- it was BRAC Commission time and a number of nearby bases were getting shut down- tools sold at pennies to the hundreds-of-dollars.
Most of my wrenches are Proamerica GOV'T surplus.
Great wrenches , they feel good in hand and are tough, but like your ES wrenches they aren't that good for tight spaces.
I bought 2 large sets off Ebay a couple years back and they're great.
I wish I could find some metric combo's if they made them, but I'm happy enough with the DOE's I have.
The SAE combo's are great.
Proamerica was the GOV'T contract stuff, and KAL was consumer with some made here and some in Japan.
Now I'm not quite sure what the story currently is with Proamerica.
They offer a fairly large array of pliers on their website, available to the consumer market of course, and the company is listed as a tool manufacturer in Baldwin park California.
That doesn't mean they make the pliers themselves though , even if many of them don't exactly look like dead wringers for anybody else and they look pretty well finished .
If they aren't making the pliers themselves, they might just still be making wrenches exclusively for Gov't contracts.
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I've already got a set of US made Tekton picks in the main shop that I really like, but decided I should get a set for the airgun workspace so I ordered a Channellock set.
(https://i.postimg.cc/zGBV25g4/s-l400-35.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
For under $20 many places you just can't beat 'em, the Tektons are about the same price and can't be beat either.
I get that some people want the cheapest they can find, and I know there are sets for $5 or less but $20 shipped isn't much at all and well worth it for a significant upgrade in quality.
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I'm gonna make a new spring compressor, as my current apparatus only has about 2-1/2" of travel.
I will cut off the jaw of a 6" C-clamp and bolt the remaining leg w/screw onto a piece of hardwood.
and make stops and chamber supports out of oak.
I have seen this design elsewhere...
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Please post pictures when completed. I'm always thinking I should have one.
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Just received and finished working on this vintage ( 70's I think ) Armstrong for the 1/4 ratchet collection.
(https://i.postimg.cc/1t600Wvr/20221022-124228.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/phWnRBbm)
As expected from Armstrong it's a pretty nice ratchet, uses a copy of the PROTO flapper pawl mechanism but the head is a little smaller than a Proto 4749.
The selecter is of course different, and it adds that ball detent.
I've never known the Plomb / Proto mechanism to self reverse, but that detent also provides a way to get some oil into the mechanism without having to take it apart.
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Please post pictures when completed. I'm always thinking I should have one.
Something like this:
https://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-air-gun-spring-compressor-5 (https://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-air-gun-spring-compressor-5)
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Thanks, seems simple enough. Maybe I'll have some ambition one of these days.
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I bought another of the cheap HF plier racks for my Channellock drawer yesterday.
The main reason I like them is because I can cut them to length without ruining them.
They're great as long as you use them right, put the pliers in jaw first gripping around the bar that runs across the back.
(https://i.postimg.cc/jSbmyJwH/20221024-133546.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/56ssVymy)
(https://i.postimg.cc/W1wK8bgQ/20221024-133506.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dhD4tFWB)
I was going to move my pliers to the bottom largest drawer, but I like them in this one.
I thought about it and that's when I actually remembered that I had cut the 1st one down, doing the same with this one I can have a front row and back row of pliers which will be plenty space to hold the rest of the pliers on my Channellock shopping list.
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I bought another of the cheap HF plier racks for my Channellock drawer yesterday.
The main reason I like them is because I can cut them to length without ruining them.
They're great as long as you use them right, put the pliers in jaw first gripping around the bar that runs across the back.
(https://i.postimg.cc/jSbmyJwH/20221024-133546.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/56ssVymy)
(https://i.postimg.cc/W1wK8bgQ/20221024-133506.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dhD4tFWB)
I was going to move my pliers to the bottom largest drawer, but I like them in this one.
I thought about it and that's when I actually remembered that I had cut the 1st one down, doing the same with this one I can have a front row and back row of pliers which will be plenty space to hold the rest of the pliers on my Channellock shopping list.
Years ago I used a wire CD rack for my pliers. It looks the same, so somebody else marketed the idea.
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I bought another of the cheap HF plier racks for my Channellock drawer yesterday.
The main reason I like them is because I can cut them to length without ruining them.
They're great as long as you use them right, put the pliers in jaw first gripping around the bar that runs across the back.
(https://i.postimg.cc/jSbmyJwH/20221024-133546.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/56ssVymy)
(https://i.postimg.cc/W1wK8bgQ/20221024-133506.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dhD4tFWB)
I was going to move my pliers to the bottom largest drawer, but I like them in this one.
I thought about it and that's when I actually remembered that I had cut the 1st one down, doing the same with this one I can have a front row and back row of pliers which will be plenty space to hold the rest of the pliers on my Channellock shopping list.
Years ago I used a wire CD rack for my pliers. It looks the same, so somebody else marketed the idea.
Could be.
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I just bought a PORTER-CABLE Oil-Free 150PSI Pancake Air Compressor it pumps 2.6 SCFM at 90 PSI. It's a
6 gal. pancake-style with a low amp 120V motor it only weighs 30 lb. It will work for me at the house in town for now. I gave my son-in-law one I had that was just like it about 2 years ago. I have two bigger shop compressors one runs one 220v and the other on 110v don't want to haul either of them around.
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I just bought a PORTER-CABLE Oil-Free 150PSI Pancake Air Compressor it pumps 2.6 SCFM at 90 PSI. It's a
6 gal. pancake-style with a low amp 120V motor it only weighs 30 lb. It will work for me at the house in town for now. I gave my son-in-law one I had that was just like it about 2 years ago. I have two bigger shop compressors one runs one 220v and the other on 110v don't want to haul either of them around.
Sounds a lot like the C-H compressor I got on closeout for $35 at Walmart 2 years ago.
They had the big I think 20 gallon that I was waiting to get put on clearance ( Walmart dropped the CH line) as some people reported buying them for $ as low as $40.
I downloaded the Walmart app to scan barcodes and the one they had left was either not on sale yet or not in the system.
I bought my 6 gallon, and the next week I noticed it was gone.
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Please post pictures when completed. I'm always thinking I should have one.
Here ya go............
Pics of my new spring compressor...I'm probably gonna turn a Delrin pad for the swivel end.
The notched extra block is a pressing block for Model 34 clones and is notched for the safety....
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Thanks, that looks like something that even I could build. If I had some more ambition.
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(https://i.postimg.cc/TYQW2GPG/20221027-151057.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/VdrN4xMH)
Got the hook & pick set in.
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Just scored these 2 nice Jackson D handles for $10 a piece at a local discount store.
(https://i.postimg.cc/VN2MJYFv/20221028-144959.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2qF3JNMN)
These vary online from $50-$70, the Ames Jackson brand shovels aren't cheap.
I normally buy the Razorback line, but Jackson is a solid line as well.
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Most shovels nowadays have horrible fitment to the handle. And the wrapped ferrule around the back where the handle is inserted is usually 2 parallel sharp edges that need "touching up" with a flap-wheel or grinding disc. I've been known to lay a quick bead off the MIG down the ferrule's joint.
I have 24, maybe 26 shovels, from transfer shovels to drain spades, and feed shovels to trenchers. Every single one gets some additional "love" except the antiques. Why? Those antiques out-perform everything else made. Ames is decent quality, but stuff from the 60s and even the 70s beats the snot out of every modern brand. I'm a big fan of my older True Temper stuff. Flea Markets and garage sales, though I've picked up some good tools at Habitat for Humanity. I've found sa number of gardening/landscaping tools in roads and in trash-piles with damaged/broken handles. Rake- I usually replace the handles with longer poles. My favorite trenching shovel is mated to a transfer-shovel's handle, instead of a shorty Y-yoke. It's far more effective. I also have more sledgehammers and pick/adzez than I need (4 railroad picks, 3 pick-adze combi-tools), and several tampers. My favorite tamper is also my least favorite. It's a monster with a 10x10 head and weighs 20-sumthin pounds, but it will smash stuff FLAT and is great for setting timbers. It was a gift from a retiree in my old neighborhood.
I went to the local Big-Box store today for some pavers and mulch for some side-work and looked at some tool handles. Only 1 decent piece of hickory with non-run-off grain, and it was warped. I've been salvaging old handles as much as possible just because the lumber is better.
When it comes to o-ring pullers and probes, I prefer brass rod, shaped and formed then smoothed with a stone. It was a rite of passage for most folks when I was at shore duty working in the HPA and Hydraulic shops. However, I bought a pile of old Pakistani steel "dental" picks eons ago at the San Jose Fleet Market (circa 1992-ish?). Larger carbide crystals, and they will rust, but the steel is incredibly good. I used them extensively for cleaning piston ring grooves when I was wrenching on flat-fours a lot. Bottom line is good tools don't necessarily cost a lot of money. You just gotta know what you're getting and match expectations and tool-use to the tool in question.
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The old U.F&H Razorbacj shovels were on another level.
I have a 1940's razorback from my grandfather , and it's a great tool.
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Some of the guys I work with like fiberglass handled shovels. I don't like the way they resonate through my hand when scouping 57s into a hole. Good solid hickory handle is heavier but far more sturdy. The other guys are sissies because wood is too heavy.
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bantam5s Love that Channellock drawer .
I picked up a carb adjusting kit for my chainsaws.
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bantam5s Love that Channellock drawer .
I picked up a carb adjusting kit for my chainsaws.
Thanks , It's a work in progress and I have a handful of other Channellock models on my list to buy.
Really I'd like to own one of everything they make, but that's not going to happen.
Aside from not needing some and not having the money to but before some models get discontinued there's also some models I just don't want because they're just a 1 inch length difference from models I already have.
I'm not sure why they'd even bother making them, 1 inch isn't making any difference with a pair of tongue & groove pliers.
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I just put together this small shovel to strap to my minibike.
I have a Russian military shovel, but I hate it.
The steel is terrible, handles fit loose, and the straightness isn't ideal .
This started out as an old AMES shovel that my grandfather had modified for some other purpose, and I made a small shovel out of it.
(https://i.postimg.cc/JhVLLmNw/20221030-163630.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w1VPXC4F).
If I effected the temper it's not gonna matter for it's purpose, but I didn't want this to look so much like a cut down shovel, nor did I want that socket bulge extending so close to the end so I heated the center with a torch and flattened that area our about 3 inches back.
(https://i.postimg.cc/NfFY8dsn/20221030-163652.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Yj5JMfmN)
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I just made this little wood handled stubby driver for my Chapman set, I made it out of a 2" Chapman extension and part of sn old ice pick that was in my grandfather's tool box when I inherited it.
Somebody got me a stamp set for Christmas last year that I don't use enough, so I stamped USA into this handle.
(https://i.postimg.cc/0NQxhNqr/20221101-195220.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0zLLwPjq)
I like the stubby Chapman handles, but when I want to turn with my fingers using the serrated band on the driver shank I have a little too much handle in my palm and my fingers aren't long enough.
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As a tool freak with a penchant for American made tools this really makes me sad :'( :'( and also angry at the same time.
https://youtu.be/VCZW98nb-yk
I understand that they are more expensive than the Chinese made garbage at your local hardware store but people have no problem spending big money on electronics and poor quality limited edition sneakers , is $45 for the best locking pliers money can buy really that much ?
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I recently bought this older pair of Channellock # 326 needle nose pliers and they were generally in pretty decent condition except for the tips, that is to say there was no rust and all the damage / wear was solely at the tips.
(https://i.postimg.cc/DfdDsVSr/20230227-132401.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/kDGf3pFG)
I failed to get a good picture of the whole pliers, but they were in the same condition as this pair of 3026 I got with them.
(https://i.postimg.cc/1zVwFNK8/20230227-132313.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jWKD02mT)
Just damage / scarring at the tips and general toolbox wear everywhere else.
They fixed up really well, and I'd say you probably wouldn't know they'd been worked on if nobody told you.
(https://i.postimg.cc/zXzQFdh9/20230302-111500.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XXPxVkQ8)
(https://i.postimg.cc/d3BxKCbH/20230302-111515.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fSVKcVTm)
I'm not one of those people who throws around the word " restoration " or thinks that every old tool must be made shiny and " new " looking, a tool is only new once and if I want a tool that looks brand new I buy one that is.
If I have to do anything beyond rust removal, I just want to get the tool back in service without making it look worse or the work I did being too obvious.
I feel I accomplished that here, and this is one very nice buttery smooth pair of needle nose pliers.
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I really dig the work you performed on that shovel, David. It has my brain thinking of doing similar to a recent D-handle FIBERGLASS-handled shovel I found roadside on route 60 west of Cumberland Courthouse. Yup, I stop and pick up "lost tools"- I mean, who doesn't? The handle is actually pretty good for fiberglass, and it scoops REALLY well, but I already have several similar. I'll go over the ferrules and see what would be the best choice for altering. I like shorty shovels for pack-tools. They beat almost any "milsurp" shovels with possible exception of the Swiss offerings. Heh, I have a Mosin bayonet swaged onto a steel rod I use for a fire-barrel poker- and it is kept sharp enough to spear trash and litter left the the f-wads and s-bags that leave trash at the softball fields across from my house. Granted, my new neighbor has voice some "concerns" with those same softball moms-n-dads over trash, up to and including getting his sister- a county deputy- involved.... and her beau is county police and LOVES writing tickets for littering, so there's less trash than there used to be :D
Older pliers are a real treat- I have taken files and flap-wheel to more than one to fix chipped/broken tips, and plastisol remedies messed up grips :D Dip away! I like using files because I have some REALLY nice Nichols stuff from the 60s and 70s with good bite, and a flap-wheel does a fine job polishing rust to then follow up with a wire wheel. Speaking of- I picked up a nice water wheel and a belt-drive grinder for effectively free (traded some old reels), and got a bunch of wood chisels and scrapers thrown in for fun.
When it comes to locking pliers like Vice-Grips, I've had everything from found China-junk to Japanese stuff that outperform the original- the former get modified welded jaws (sheet metal seaming tools and steel-stud framing "extra hands") while the latter get well-taken-care of. Tools are tools, and some creative metal-working can make any good tool better :D
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I have not been happy with plasti dip.
I bought some on Wednesday to try and am not impressed.
After about 12 coats on one pair it's still not all that thick, I don't like the surface feel, and It doesn't seem that durable because it could peel right off.
It doesn't feel like you've got proper vinyl grips, it feels like it was dipped in latex and I don't really like it.
(https://i.postimg.cc/g2TB0Pgz/20230302-105730.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tsFzr80w)
Maybe I should see what kind of colors the Flex seal liquid comes in, I'll bet I'd like that stuff better.
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I understand what you're saying. I haven't even tried finding Plastisol brand dip in a long time, but that's what I used the last time I dipped some handles. Bought it at the local Ace 25 years ago and used it all up helping my father redo a bunch of his Xcelite pliers and some ES Tools ratchets. I haven't looked at anything recently, but I do have a tub of FlexSeal (my wife loves it!) so next time we're doing a project I'll try it out. Mayt also be worth trying bedliner stuff (the spray-on- I've had superb luck with that after scuffing the finish).
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Some toolfreaks are crazy in a bad way, sure all toolfreaks are crazy in a way but some are worse.
Here we have 2 slightly different examples of the same ratchet.
(https://i.postimg.cc/KzMvj8LZ/s-l400-35.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/FsZF7qfJ/RH3-CH-575x380.png) (https://postimages.org/)
Both are made in Taiwan, but the difference is the Tone branded example on the bottom is stamped " JAPAN " ( not MADE IN JAPAN, like KTC and Engineer...ect does ).
The top is a Blackhawk imported by S-B&D , Stanley has previously been in trouble with shady COO claims and since learned not to break these relstively strict laws.
If their offering says " MADE IN TAIWAN " on the package that's where it's made, Japan is known for quality these days and they'd advertise that as a selling point if the Blackhawk ratchets were made there.
Anyways, all the Japanese tool fans refuse to accept the obvious and won't hesitate to jump down your throat if you even think to call this ratchet out as not actually being made in JAPAN.
This ratchet being stamped " JAPAN " is like a worthless $5 gas station knife saying " MTECH USA " or " DUCK USA ", the " USA " is noting the origin of the brand not the COO of the product.
They're well known as a great tool regardless of what brand is found on it, but the people who buy the TONE examples seem to desperately need to believe they're Japanese made.
I certainly would love to check one out if they were made in Japan, but they clearly aren't.
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The "Made in xxxx" moniker versus the "xxxx" has been a sore spot for tool freaks for years. Made in Japan, Made in China, Made in Taiwwan, Made in Malaysia, Hecho en Mexico, and Made in USA are all labels that come with expectations. Interestingly, the best CPUs (computers are a tool for me, and overclocking to wreak the penultimate bit of performance used to be very important to me as well) I've bought were all Made in Malaysia. I've owned a few Hecho en Maxico tools that were sort of roughly finished but seriously overbuilt and extremely well tempered. I have a flex handle (often called "breaker bar" in the US) that generally wears a 30" long thick-wall aluminum pipe for yoinking on very stubborn hardware. Likewise, I've ended up with "gifts" of tools that come from pretty much all over the globe that were not worth the packing container- though most had the dreaded "Made in China" label.
I have a tendency to favor MilSurp/DRMO tools, but after 8 years active duty, I can also state with certainty I ran into a few stinkers- even while on active duty (I'm looking at you, ProAmerica, with your flaking razor sharp chrome-plating!). But when it comes to precision tools (micrometers, calipers, snap-gauges, diffraction lenses, flat table, etc), I can add that precision equipment that comes from Switzerland, the UK, Japan, or the US is still worth every ¢ paid.
A special note goes to my oddball Wentworth spanners- can't find them anywhere, so I absolutely treasure the ones I have.
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Interesting, I've got 2 large Proamerica wrench sets that are flawless with zero issues.
They're a lot like the 60's-70's thorsen wrenches.
As far as the Breaker bar vs flex handle thing, you can see in old catalogs...ect that breaker bar didn't used to be as standard of a term as it is today.
These days most call them a breaker bar, but WRIGHT tool still lists theirs as a Flex handle.
Proto calls their a " hinge handle ".
It's kind if like the whole ratchet vs ratchet handle thing.
Basically everybody just calls them / lists them as a ratchet, but ratchet handle was once common terminology.
There's also the whole spinner handle vs driver handle thing, but mostly it's just ignorance in people.
Some tool companies who just import and don't actually make tools do get it wrong though.
They are two different tools, a spinner handle can be used on a ratchet while a driver handle cannot.
In my opinion driver handles are an absolutely terrible waste of materials and a pointless tool.
Why would you want a driver handle that can't fit on your ratchet when you can have a much more useful spinner handle that does ?
I have both the WRIGHT tool 2441 driver handle and 2442 spinner handle because for some strange reason Wright actually makes both, I have no clue why they'd even bother with the 2441 though.
The reason I have both is because a lot of distributors will use the stock photos interchangeably, or will use one photo with the model number photoshopped off and it is very easy to order the wrong one.
I almost ordered the 2441 3 times because if it.
When I first ordered the wrong one I figured the tool had recently changed and the stock photos were just not updated yet.
About a year later I learned that they actually made both a 2441 driver handle and 2442 spinner handle , I ordered one from a distributor but realized they too had some stock photo issues and it was the wrong tool so I canceled my order.
The 3rd time I ordered the wrong one again, but quickly realized my mistake and was able to get it sorted out because they had both in stock at the same price.
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Breaker bar?
Did you say breaker bar?
I just got this one. I think that I can get 500 foot pounds with this thing!
Capri Tools 3/4 in. Drive 40 in. Extended Leverage Breaker Bar
Hunter
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Interesting, I've got 2 large Proamerica wrench sets that are flawless with zero issues.
They're a lot like the 60's-70's thorsen wrenches.
As far as the Breaker bar vs flex handle thing, you can see in old catalogs...ect that breaker bar didn't used to be as standard of a term as it is today.
These days most call them a breaker bar, but WRIGHT tool still lists theirs as a Flex handle.
Proto calls their a " hinge handle ".
It's kind if like the whole ratchet vs ratchet handle thing.
Basically everybody just calls them / lists them as a ratchet, but ratchet handle was once common terminology.
There's also the whole spinner handle vs driver handle thing, but mostly it's just ignorance in people.
Some tool companies who just import and don't actually make tools do get it wrong though.
They are two different tools, a spinner handle can be used on a ratchet while a driver handle cannot.
In my opinion driver handles are an absolutely terrible waste of materials and a pointless tool.
Why would you want a driver handle that can't fit on your ratchet when you can have a much more useful spinner handle that does ?
I have both the WRIGHT tool 2441 driver handle and 2442 spinner handle because for some strange reason Wright actually makes both, I have no clue why they'd even bother with the 2441 though.
The reason I have both is because a lot of distributors will use the stock photos interchangeably, or will use one photo with the model number photoshopped off and it is very easy to order the wrong one.
I almost ordered the 2441 3 times because if it.
When I first ordered the wrong one I figured the tool had recently changed and the stock photos were just not updated yet.
About a year later I learned that they actually made both a 2441 driver handle and 2442 spinner handle , I ordered one from a distributor but realized they too had some stock photo issues and it was the wrong tool so I canceled my order.
The 3rd time I ordered the wrong one again, but quickly realized my mistake and was able to get it sorted out because they had both in stock at the same price.
David, don't get me wrong, I love ProAmeric wrenches. But our sub got a batch of poorly-chromed wrenches and they were murder on your hands with the chrome flaking off. Gnarly slivers and chrome-plating splinters. Our Supply guy learned his lesson REALLY QUICK and ordered polished, not plated tools from then on.
You're one of the few people under 50 that know what a flex handle is, versus a breaker-bar- that PROVES you are a tool freak. :D Now as far as spinners versus drivers, both have their uses, especially in 1/4" drive working on electronic boards and dealing with standoffs. I have a good collection of both (mainly Xcelite), along with some really nice sets of nutdrivers. Some were inherited, but I spent enough time changing out circuit boards at Sears to need them all. The spinners are good when you need to apply more torque to specific values like 37 inch-pounds (just slip the deflecting beam torque wrench in the end and have at it). They definitely have their uses!
Another tool you don't see much anymore are speed-handles for sockets. Back when I was working for Miller Door (local company out of Chesapeake VA) installing/replacing garage doors, I worked on MANY wood doors using square nuts on threaded stud as well as self-tapping lag bolts. The impact wrenches we used often had too much "oomph" for older wood doors, so I'd break out the spinner handles- they work much like a swing brace and can make certain jobs far easier.
I liken it to scrapers versus planes versus draw knives and hoop shaves. They all perform in similar manners, all require some know-how to use, and all work amazingly well. And yet if you ask the average Joe, they may know their grandfather had a hand plane, but they're unfamiliar with the others. Or a nail-set versus a center-punch versus a pick. Most folks cannot tell them apart. Hah, don't even get me started on hammers! A lot of the current generation of construction workers under 30 cannot tell the different types of claw hammers apart- and that's before you get into cross-pein, drilling, and sledgehammers.
Speaking of- I recently used a star-drill and drilling for the first time in more than 2 decades. My wife was surprised I broke out hand-tools for a couple lead concrete inserts, but I didn't have enough room for my hammer drill since my SDS bits just weren't long enough to clear the interference- and I didn't want to buy 2-foot-long $$$$ bits for 2 stinking holes.
Perhaps one of the more oddball tools I use frequently are my offset spinner screwdrivers. I usually bring several to the junkyard- when a random comes by and asks to borrow a screwdriver, it is what I offer. 8) 8) Most people look at them with dismay.
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I love speeders, so much that I actually made a compact speeder for my 1/4 drive set.
Took an extra long Harbor freight extension, bent it to shape, then I cut a groove around the female end and attached a set screw drill bit stop as the spinning cap.
One of these days I need to make another with a nicer more professional looking cap possibly with a bearing.
This one works fine though, doesn't look terrible, and It cost less than $10 to make.
(https://i.postimg.cc/bJJMsxF4/20230306-095045.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zLspQgNk)
Those Klein rapi-drive screwdrivers are cool, but I've always wished somebody would make a speeder bit driver.
Craftsman had the mach series bit driver that operates like the Klein, but it also has this gimmicky folding handle T position and stil wasn't the same as a 2 hand operated Speeder.
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I just finished making this simple tool that has a very specific area of use.
What this tool does should be pretty obvious, but what it's utilized for maybe not.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Dw8kP2S4/20230306-132448.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/DSkM23d7)
(https://i.postimg.cc/85hVftjy/20230306-132454.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/625PDVVR)
Normally they typically have a base , but I designed mine to be held in my bench vise while I'm using it.
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A special note goes to my oddball Wentworth spanners- can't find them anywhere, so I absolutely treasure the ones I have.
Did someone mention British Wentworth?
I have a set of spanners and sockets.
Necessity for working on old British Motorcycles. ;)
Cool thing about Wentworth... The size on the tool is the size of the actual bolt size it fits... Not the size of the hex head of the bolt.
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For example... The wrench on the left fits a 1/2" hex head size (SAE)... the spanner on the right fits a 1/2" actual sized bolt (Wentworth)
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Oh... I also have "speed handles" in 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" drive... If you don't have a compressor with air tools available... they are priceless for "quick work". ;)
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Oh... I also have "speed handles" in 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" drive... If you don't have a compressor with air tools available... they are priceless for "quick work". ;)
Or cordless battery powered these days.
I still go with speeders.
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Speed-handles are sublime, and like I said, I used them extensively on old wood garage doors with 8-point sockets. I've also found a swing-brace with good bits are superb for drilling holes in metals. I don't think it possible to go too fast using a swing-brace when drilling metal. A little cutting fluid and sharp bits and you're making LONG curly shavings.
Don't get me wrong, I love my Ryobi, Milwaukee, and Ego cordless tools. But when working on wood projects, I'm as likely to reach for speed-handles and swing-braces as I am the cordless stuff. And when there's no power available (such as when we first started working on our shed on our property) it is just about the only resource once the batteries are dead.
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" order now while supplies last they said ".
Apparently Chapman is discontinuing the classic black driver handle here
(https://i.postimg.cc/RhSsWKdq/handle-NOsetscrew-Nobackground-360x-3433fae1-0874-4c50-a838-7c53013a1805.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
And has kindly informed me via email that I should buy one before they switch to these new black and yellow handles.
(https://i.postimg.cc/c4K7XFv0/IMG-5780-2-1-493x.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Well I already have the black one, and I like the new ones better anyways.
I won't be rushing to order another of the one I already have, but will definitely be ordering the new handle here soon.
There's absolutely nothing wrong with the black handle, but the new one is a basically q copy of the Stanley 100 plus handles that is one of my absolute favorites.
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I should probably get a better picture, but here's some of my US made 1/4" ratchet collection and how I store them.
(https://i.postimg.cc/J0xmt02k/20230221-192441.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/q6NW5J0J)
There's a few not seen in this picture, and the main users in my WTIGHT general purpose 1/4" drive tool kit.
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Can anyone tell me what this is for?
*Hint*
It is automotive and has a 9/16 box end on the bottom.
Decades ago my Chevy Camaro with a 307 V8 engine had the distributor mounted in the back of the engine between the valve covers and the hold down bolt was positioned under the distributor. To adjust the engine timing this bolt needed to be loosened so the distributor could be rotated so the timing light could show the proper distributor alignment, then the adjustment bolt could be tightened. I'm guessing that the wrench pictures was for something similar..........
(https://i.imgur.com/DZP315F.png)
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Btw that homemade wooden tool from my previous post is a stitching pony for leather work.
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Can anyone tell me what this is for?
*Hint*
It is automotive and has a 9/16 box end on the bottom.
Decades ago my Chevy Camaro with a 307 V8 engine had the distributor mounted in the back of the engine between the valve covers and the hold down bolt was positioned under the distributor. To adjust the engine timing this bolt needed to be loosened so the distributor could be rotated so the timing light could show the proper distributor alignment, then the adjustment bolt could be tightened. I'm guessing that the wrench pictures was for something similar..........
DING DING DING!
Ed's got it... It is a distributor wrench.
They came in a variety of shapes for different engine designs.
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I spent some time on lunch shaping a broken handle for an 8lb hammer. The wood is old and very-straight-grained hickory, never mind it is tight grain. I will re-use handles as much as possible, and I have a good 28 inches of wood left to work with.
I have a 6-pound head in need of a handle, but I'm more inclined to use the 8-pounder since the 6 really isn't that much useful than my 4-pounders. The heads are both Chinese, but they were free and the steel is darn good for hammering stuff.
I have several distributor wrenches (350SBC, 351 Ford, and a couple where the paint marker rubbed off), but I modified a basin wrench years ago to work with 3/8"-drive crow's feet- one tool, several multi-use attachments. Less big stuff to store.
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I bought these Channellock snipe nose pliers a few months back.
(https://i.postimg.cc/yx6S0W5h/20221116-111800.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/N9VMcGQL)
Today I bent the tips and couldn't fix them, so I decided to just cut that last inch off and turn them into a little pair of needle nose pliers.
(https://i.postimg.cc/mgg6fr21/20230324-181709.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Whx70TZs)
These will be a great addition to my 1/4" drive kit along with the 4" 524 slipjoints and 4" 424 tongue and grooves.
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I keep telling myself I'm just trying to find my favorite screwdriver handles, and I am but I also just like screwdrivers.
(https://i.postimg.cc/XqVPTjrC/20230512-123650.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xJ4gmSyf)
( these are just the ones I could find right now)
I just got these really nice Heyco screwdrivers in the other day.
(https://i.postimg.cc/VLh7FBWM/20230508-120702.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0bpdkS32)
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This is not usually my style but, guys on the BSW tools it's Whitworth not 'wentworth'. Named for the originator, Joseph Whitworth. Got my education in this way back when I was wrenching Brit bikes and cars and needed these to get by.
;)
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This is not usually my style but, guys on the BSW tools it's Whitworth not 'wentworth'. Named for the originator, Joseph Whitworth. Got my education in this way back when I was wrenching Brit bikes and cars and needed these to get by.
;)
" Call JG Wentworth, 877 cash now "
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Anyone else got a thing for channellock?
(https://i.postimg.cc/FHstWyz2/20210502-162543.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZCgD0yrc)
I think I do, this is just what I could grab quickly.
That one in the middle is called a nipper, it can cut nails, or since the thread started with nail pullers, be used to grip and pry one out (mine's Stanley, not vintage). Bolt cutters will cut nails too, didn't see any in the thread.
Among my "odd stuff" is a set of spark plug sockets, you know, rubber insert inside --- these from a tool store that had Chinese made stuff and some air tools. What was unique about them is they are 1/2" drive. Yours will more than likely be 3/8" drive.
I've also got some of the new bits for electrician's work that have both blades combined, philips and slotted. With them you can put more torque on those combination screws without stripping them. You see those screws on electrical outlets and switches, and some circuit breakers.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BYFO7FE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BYFO7FE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
A friend of mine in Miami had a 4" pipe wrench. Real, not like the toy ones you sometimes see. Perfect for stuck brake bleed valves.
We had a tool place here a long time ago that I no longer recall the name of, that had a set of Williams striking wrenches, one side normal 6 or 12 point, the other a surface for hitting with a hammer. I wanted to buy the set but couldn't justify the cost since they are almost never needed. Maybe I could have used them once in the last 30+ years since. They are still in business, searching "williams striking wrench" will bring up a few --- cost each is probably what the set cost when I was debating...
Seeing the impact driver tool (hit with hammer, to turn screws, etc.) reminded me that Sears made a "nut cracker" tool, put over nut and a chisel cuts through when you crank on the hex screw driving it.
My ratcheting Serpentine Belt Tool Set (was a birthday present, used for the fan bolts on the water pump cover back when the engine drove the fan and not the alternator) is now kinda a thing from the past, like that barbed wire fence puller. They still sell it but I don't recall ever seeing one in anyone's tool box. It came with some crow's foot wrenches...
https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-3680-Ratcheting-Wrench-Serpentine/dp/B0002WSFTO (https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-3680-Ratcheting-Wrench-Serpentine/dp/B0002WSFTO)
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End nippers come in several shapes and sizes; I own multiples and use them more than almost anything save my 6-in-one and Estwing hammers. I'm sure may of you have proficiency at using pliers one-handed (sorta like chopsticks).
I'm also a big fan of so-called "service wrenches", the big open-end wrenches with stub handles designed for cheater-pipes. I've been using mine a lot lately, oddly enough.
And I should also mention Park tools. I've been turning a wrench a lot on bicycles lately; some repairs, but mostly tuning multi-speeds for friends and family. High-end cable cutters are really the only way to cut stainless cable- at least until you get over 1/4" steel rope, then you use a die grinder :D
One thing for certain- if you dip your hands into multiple trades, you end up with a lot of tools.
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I use my Channellock 357 end nippers ( yes I know what they're called, thatwhy I bought them ) for nipping, but most often for pulling nails and staples from pallet wood.
They are an excellent tool and will probably add their larger pair to my lineup as well as maybe the 6" pair.
I already own the smallest pair of nippers Channellock makes.
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I have kind of learned my lesson on buying an entire set of screwdrivers just to try out not knowing if I'll even like the handle.
I bought the new Channellock 6 in 1 screwdriver a few weeks back ( made by Mayhew) to try out, and I'm glad I didn't buy an entire set of the screwdrivers because I've determined that I really just don't like 3 sided handles.
(https://i.postimg.cc/90KYVWy4/20230629-102031.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4Hv9QRLZ)
I just ordered this William's #2 to try out, if I like the handle I may order a set or just gradually add the few others that I'd want individually.
It'll cost more that way but I think I'd really only need the #2, 1/4, and a stubby in each of those.
(https://i.postimg.cc/qBjV8Wx9/Z2w-J9zlcp-Ex.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Got a laser measurer recently. Neat tool! Keeps the cat happy chasing the laser as well!
(https://s1.qwant.com/thumbr/0x380/8/f/5821b2d273e65064334cd0a76a31b656a06aa4ae822474122223deb62e3cf1/frane-glm-15-ldm-1.jpg?u=https%3A%2F%2Fcdnassets.hw.net%2Fc2%2F23%2Fe431367d4224b5c73d3c3c095df4%2Ffrane-glm-15-ldm-1.jpg&q=0&b=1&p=0&a=0)
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I have a few 3 sided screwdrivers. Don't like em. Who would ever come up with that idea?
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I have a few 3 sided screwdrivers. Don't like em. Who would ever come up with that idea?
Somebody who didn't want you repairing their product yourself without voiding the warranty
Sure you can often get just the right sized flat blade wedged in there and remove the screws but doing so usually damages the screw at least a little and there's no denying that you did it.
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Three-sided (trihedral) screwdriver handles offer more torque and better hand placement, based on my experiences in construction and the years I was a service tech at Sears.
My hands are average length but very wide and I have a strong grip. I not a fan of the normal 6-side handles; 4 sides way are better, such as my Snap-On stuff. But the trihedral grips... ooh baby! The 3-sided ones offer exceptional torque thanks to the way I can wrap my hand around them, and I prefer them over everything else. My favorite set is a short collection of "Popular Mechanics" branded screwdrivers I bought in the early 90s second-hand at the Oakland CA flea market. I've looked for more of 'em but they appear to be made of unobtanium. Thanks for sharing that Channellock sells them, I've been considering thinning out the hard to replace for consistencies and it is easier knowing I can get my favorite handle shape :D
I also own some 3-sided nut-drivers (also PM branded, bought at the same time in a set) and if the screwdrivers are great, then the nutdrivers are even better, but I only have 4. Different strokes for different folks. The "classic" sorta-rounded with grooves screwdrivers handles such as you find on Craftsman stuff from the 80s and 90s is- IMO- the worst design ever. Between crummy finish and soft metal, they eat screw heads; especially brass wood screws thanks to an improper tip fit.
I'm also a big fan of wood handles, especially "rounded square" gunsmithing screwdrivers, and I peruse local flea markets for them.
When it comes to 6-in-1 and 8-in-1 nested screwdrivers, Klein is among my favorites as long as it has the really fat over-handle that slips over the regular-sized handle. And speaking of Klein, I'm a huge fan of spinner screwdrivers for lower-torque screws such as junction boxes, outlets, and receptacles & plates. Another less-common handle I'm fond of is the flattened oval of Wiha electricians/high voltage screwdrivers.
Skinny handles are just not my preference unless we're talking precision screwdrivers used for super-tiny hardware. In those instances, Xcelite is my groove.
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Different strokes for different folks I guess, because trilobe screwdriver handles just plain don't work for me and are the least comfortable handles I've ever used.
One of the 3 corners/ edges is always digging into my hand , they're definitely good for torque but I'll take a 4 sided handle with a hex bolster for that any day of the week.
My absolute favorite so far have been the Stanley 100 plus which are that octagonal shape , but they're done perfectly and nothing fits my hand as well.
If you like Trilobe handles go to HJE and order some of these WILDE screwdrivers, they're high quality and you'll love the handles.
(https://i.postimg.cc/T1jdWH2W/20230126-114210.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZvRtGHdT)
FYI those Popular Mechanics brand screwdrivers were a Walmart house brand.
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I don't believe I'll ever find anything else that fits my had as well as the Stanley 100 plus , and I like them so much I couldn't wait to order one when Chapman introduced this as their new driver handle.
(https://i.postimg.cc/t4BdVXmp/20230417-113435.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XryBR0bz)
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Brought my 50 year old tap and die set to work today, makes more space in my garage. I have 2 newer sets standard and metric.
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=8924)
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Different strokes for different folks I guess, because trilobe screwdriver handles just plain don't work for me and are the least comfortable handles I've ever used.
One of the 3 corners/ edges is always digging into my hand , they're definitely good for torque but I'll take a 4 sided handle with a hex bolster for that any day of the week.
My absolute favorite so far have been the Stanley 100 plus which are that octagonal shape , but they're done perfectly and nothing fits my hand as well.
If you like Trilobe handles go to HJE and order some of these WILDE screwdrivers, they're high quality and you'll love the handles.
(https://i.postimg.cc/T1jdWH2W/20230126-114210.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZvRtGHdT)
FYI those Popular Mechanics brand screwdrivers were a Walmart house brand.
I appreciate that, David! Next time I order some tools I'll get some of them.
I have a really old ACE tap and die set, along with several not-quite-complete sets of Brownells and Starrett that belonged to my father and my maternal grandfather... But my favorite is probably my Precise set. It's one of those oddball finds at a yard sale for $10.
I've got a lot of good tools; every time I thin out the herd, I end up being gifted a bunch more.
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So, guess what this is ...
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... or this ...
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... or this ...
Stud removers.
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So, guess what this is ...
That looks like some sort of tubing cutter.
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So, guess what this is ...
Cylinder ridge reamer
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... or this ...
Stud removers.
Yup
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So, guess what this is ...
Cylinder ridge reamer
It is indeed
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Mine
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guess
-
guess
-
guess
Piston ring compressor.
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guess
Piston ring compressor.
yep!
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I knew the three already named from my days as a Mechanic.... but that yellow thing has me stumped. :-[
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Ii'm th
I knew the three already named from my days as a Mechanic.... but that yellow thing has me stumped. :-[
I'm Tinking chain saw sharpening guide, think I have that one somewhere ???
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guess
Jar opener ?
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Ii'm thI knew the three already named from my days as a Mechanic.... but that yellow thing has me stumped. :-[
I'm Tinking chain saw sharpening guide, think I have that one somewhere ???
;D I had to take pics carefully as to no reveal it. I thought it would stump most. It is from the round headlight days, and probably mostly just found in autobody shops.
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I see it now LOL
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(https://www.clipartmax.com/png/middle/255-2555099_homer-simpson-doh-homer-simpson-meme-doh.png)
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I've always just pulled up to the side of a building, but I too was stumped (was thinking 55 gallon drum opening tool for the screw in plugs).
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I'm a major " toolfreak " for Vaughan & Bushnell, the greatest hammer manufacturer in the business.
(https://i.postimg.cc/7P0jmrh7/20231030-162132.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rzyhwbSF)
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I'm a major " toolfreak " for Vaughan & Bushnell, the greatest hammer manufacturer in the business.
(https://i.postimg.cc/7P0jmrh7/20231030-162132.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rzyhwbSF)
Nice hammer, but I'm an Estwing and Plumb hammer fan. I have a shorty 20-ounce Estwing with leather washer handle- belonged to my grandfather :D I have several Vaughan hammers, though my all-time favorite is an Estwing 20-ouncer with the vibration dampening blue handle. It has built many houses, lots of sheds, decks, done a number of additions, and even been used to coerce pieces of metal into moving an RCH when a 4-pounder was too much.
Estwing also has some REALLY nice geologist tools- there's a couple in my Wishlist on Amazon.
Speaking of tools- got one for Sonja- a Hoover electric skillet with broiler. Yeah, kitchen tool, but still a tool. :D
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A Friend made this for me...a good while ago...use it for one of my other hobbies... It is a very good copy of the same tool made by Ibex...
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I checked this ad and wound up ordering the DeWalt batteries with 1/2" impact driver. There are some really great deals all this month.
https://www.homedepot.com/b/Gift-Center/N-5yc1vZ1z1c7ho
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I'm a major " toolfreak " for Vaughan & Bushnell, the greatest hammer manufacturer in the business.
(https://i.postimg.cc/7P0jmrh7/20231030-162132.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rzyhwbSF)
Nice hammer, but I'm an Estwing and Plumb hammer fan. I have a shorty 20-ounce Estwing with leather washer handle- belonged to my grandfather :D I have several Vaughan hammers, though my all-time favorite is an Estwing 20-ouncer with the vibration dampening blue handle. It has built many houses, lots of sheds, decks, done a number of additions, and even been used to coerce pieces of metal into moving an RCH when a 4-pounder was too much.
Estwing also has some REALLY nice geologist tools- there's a couple in my Wishlist on Amazon.
Speaking of tools- got one for Sonja- a Hoover electric skillet with broiler. Yeah, kitchen tool, but still a tool. :D
Plumb made good hammers at one time but of course they're just a name owned today.
My most treasured hammer but most hated from a tool standpoint is a 20oz plumb.
I treasure it because it belonged to my grandfather who I watched re-roof his workshop and build my toy box with it , but as a tool I hate it .
It's an 80's cooper era Plumb with an uncomfortable fat gripped fiberglass handle.
It's poorly balanced and feels heavier and clunkier than it is.
That's all an issue with the handle though, if the head itself was marked I'd put it on a hickory handle.
I understand people liking Estwing and the Vaughan steel eagle hammers because they're durable, but I just can't use them myself
For me it doesn't get any better than the Vaughan & Bushnell 999, V&B has been in the game for over 150 years for good reason.
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A Friend made this for me...a good while ago...use it for one of my other hobbies... It is a very good copy of the same tool made by Ibex...
A luthiers tool right?
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I just finished whipping up this simple wrench pouch out of some leather I salvaged off a lounge chair somebody threw out.
(https://i.postimg.cc/DfWCPsVB/20231110-162640.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/K42rZ18M)
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I'm a major " toolfreak " for Vaughan & Bushnell, the greatest hammer manufacturer in the business.
(https://i.postimg.cc/7P0jmrh7/20231030-162132.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rzyhwbSF)
Nice hammer, but I'm an Estwing and Plumb hammer fan. I have a shorty 20-ounce Estwing with leather washer handle- belonged to my grandfather :D I have several Vaughan hammers, though my all-time favorite is an Estwing 20-ouncer with the vibration dampening blue handle. It has built many houses, lots of sheds, decks, done a number of additions, and even been used to coerce pieces of metal into moving an RCH when a 4-pounder was too much.
Estwing also has some REALLY nice geologist tools- there's a couple in my Wishlist on Amazon.
Speaking of tools- got one for Sonja- a Hoover electric skillet with broiler. Yeah, kitchen tool, but still a tool. :D
Plumb made good hammers at one time but of course they're just a name owned today.
My most treasured hammer but most hated from a tool standpoint is a 20oz plumb.
I treasure it because it belonged to my grandfather who I watched re-roof his workshop and build my toy box with it , but as a tool I hate it .
It's an 80's cooper era Plumb with an uncomfortable fat gripped fiberglass handle.
It's poorly balanced and feels heavier and clunkier than it is.
That's all an issue with the handle though, if the head itself was marked I'd put it on a hickory handle.
I understand people liking Estwing and the Vaughan steel eagle hammers because they're durable, but I just can't use them myself
For me it doesn't get any better than the Vaughan & Bushnell 999, V&B has been in the game for over 150 years for good reason.
My Vaughan just reads Vaughan, but it is well balanced.
Funny you mention the Plumb fiberglass (mine was red, my father's was white, both were over-sized and the "rubber" grip was Not Good). I had that exact model at one point and my father had it's twin. The handle started splintering so I cut/drilled that hateful handle off and went with a Ace Hardware hickory handle. That was the first tool I ever re-hafted- maybe 16 at the time? Anyway, I've picked up several Plumb heads (12oz, 16oz, and a hatchet) over the years at thrift stores. The 12ouncer in particular is nice- really fat contact surface with a well shaped claw. I have an octagonal handle that's perfect for it but I haven't taken the time to do the work.
The Estwing ripping and framing hammers are real workhorses. I like the total ambidextrousness of them- forward or reverse swing, left- or right-handed, underhanded, vertical/under-swing, you name it. Everybody I worked with preferred DeWalt hammers until they hand to stand on scaffolding or tall ladders and swing under-handed. The handle shape of those DeWalts would blister a palm in no time flat if you were working with well-cured lumber and any nails bigger than 12-penny. I had a Dead-On hammer with a extra spur on the handle shaft for twisting 2x4/2x6 etc but the hammer itself was poorly balanced. It could smash a nail like nobody's business, but was best suited for demolition work.
BTW- slick pouch!
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A Friend made this for me...a good while ago...use it for one of my other hobbies... It is a very good copy of the same tool made by Ibex...
A luthiers tool right?
yep... I make dulcimers and acoustic lap slide guitars once in a while since was a kid... use it and chisels(80's Sheffield Marples) to cut the channels when I do bindings...
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I'm a major " toolfreak " for Vaughan & Bushnell, the greatest hammer manufacturer in the business.
(https://i.postimg.cc/7P0jmrh7/20231030-162132.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rzyhwbSF)
Nice hammer, but I'm an Estwing and Plumb hammer fan. I have a shorty 20-ounce Estwing with leather washer handle- belonged to my grandfather :D I have several Vaughan hammers, though my all-time favorite is an Estwing 20-ouncer with the vibration dampening blue handle. It has built many houses, lots of sheds, decks, done a number of additions, and even been used to coerce pieces of metal into moving an RCH when a 4-pounder was too much.
Estwing also has some REALLY nice geologist tools- there's a couple in my Wishlist on Amazon.
Speaking of tools- got one for Sonja- a Hoover electric skillet with broiler. Yeah, kitchen tool, but still a tool. :D
Plumb made good hammers at one time but of course they're just a name owned today.
My most treasured hammer but most hated from a tool standpoint is a 20oz plumb.
I treasure it because it belonged to my grandfather who I watched re-roof his workshop and build my toy box with it , but as a tool I hate it .
It's an 80's cooper era Plumb with an uncomfortable fat gripped fiberglass handle.
It's poorly balanced and feels heavier and clunkier than it is.
That's all an issue with the handle though, if the head itself was marked I'd put it on a hickory handle.
I understand people liking Estwing and the Vaughan steel eagle hammers because they're durable, but I just can't use them myself
For me it doesn't get any better than the Vaughan & Bushnell 999, V&B has been in the game for over 150 years for good reason.
My Vaughan just reads Vaughan, but it is well balanced.
Funny you mention the Plumb fiberglass (mine was red, my father's was white, both were over-sized and the "rubber" grip was Not Good). I had that exact model at one point and my father had it's twin. The handle started splintering so I cut/drilled that hateful handle off and went with a Ace Hardware hickory handle. That was the first tool I ever re-hafted- maybe 16 at the time? Anyway, I've picked up several Plumb heads (12oz, 16oz, and a hatchet) over the years at thrift stores. The 12ouncer in particular is nice- really fat contact surface with a well shaped claw. I have an octagonal handle that's perfect for it but I haven't taken the time to do the work.
The Estwing ripping and framing hammers are real workhorses. I like the total ambidextrousness of them- forward or reverse swing, left- or right-handed, underhanded, vertical/under-swing, you name it. Everybody I worked with preferred DeWalt hammers until they hand to stand on scaffolding or tall ladders and swing under-handed. The handle shape of those DeWalts would blister a palm in no time flat if you were working with well-cured lumber and any nails bigger than 12-penny. I had a Dead-On hammer with a extra spur on the handle shaft for twisting 2x4/2x6 etc but the hammer itself was poorly balanced. It could smash a nail like nobody's business, but was best suited for demolition work.
BTW- slick pouch!
you both know from the axe thread I like the old plumb axes...well, I only have 3 Plumb hammers... a 13oz finish and two 16 oz framers... one is a Victory and the other is a Leader... my fav Framing hammer is the standard setter to me ;) (pic below)... do have a collection of thrashers just cause got very cheap at garage sales n such...like the two True Temper Rockets... one is an A20 other is A20 RL...
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These are the sizes of Vaughan & Bushnell rip claw hammers I have.
(https://i.postimg.cc/8kmFWMbs/20230919-094056.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/6TT5x7gN)
A minimum of 2 and as many as 4 of each size.
3 #9 10oz, 2 #99 16oz, 4 variants of the #999 20oz, and 2 of the #505 24oz.
I'll get the 2 largest sizes eventually.
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Nice set of hammers
My all-time favorite is my leather-washer 20-oz Estwing- it's a couple inches shorter than the starter 20-ouncer. I rarely use the claw for pulling nails since any time I'm driving nails I use end-nippers. Occasionally, I check out hammers at the stores- maybe one day I'll get a titanium hammer; I'm not in the trades anymore and a steel 23-oz framing hammer never bothered me even on the longest days so it would be more of a guilty pleasure versus a need.
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Nice set of hammers
My all-time favorite is my leather-washer 20-oz Estwing- it's a couple inches shorter than the starter 20-ouncer. I rarely use the claw for pulling nails since any time I'm driving nails I use end-nippers. Occasionally, I check out hammers at the stores- maybe one day I'll get a titanium hammer; I'm not in the trades anymore and a steel 23-oz framing hammer never bothered me even on the longest days so it would be more of a guilty pleasure versus a need.
I don't own a single titanium thing and probably never will, the stuff just doesn't appeal to me whatsoever and I don't remotely understand it's appeal in tools and especially EDC keychain gadgets.
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I haven't bought any new tools for a while. I seem to have all i need. I enjoy this thread very much. A titanium hammer. My Estwing serves me very well, even my Stanley Rockets are good woops mistake.
I bought a no name 8 oz claw hammer at a flea market . Wooden handle and well used . Just wanted to spend 10 dollars for retail therapy.
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A friend of mine gave me a cheap Menards titanium framing hammer years ago. My memory is a little foggy but I believe it was a 20 oz, about the same size as a steel 24 oz.
I loved that hammer. For beating on anything metal it was great. Trying to move a stud, or a wall over 1/8" not so much, a heavier steel hammer was was always better, but for nails and anything made out of steel it seemed to out perform a steel hammer of similar weight. I broke the haft and I should really get a new one. I should warn that the waffle head really does a number on even hardened steel...
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This is the camp axe I bought today at the local hardware. $21 and change out the door.
https://www.vaughanmfg.com/Products/SC1-14-Supersteel-Camp-Axe__33220.aspx
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This is the camp axe I bought today at the local hardware. $21 and change out the door.
https://www.vaughanmfg.com/Products/SC1-14-Supersteel-Camp-Axe__33220.aspx
They're not pretty and the handles could stand to be reshaped a bit ( if you care about how well handles used to be shaped ) but the steel is great and they're good performers.
The council tool hatchet is a little nicer looking but these have better steel.
I don't have that one, but gifted a couple of the Craftsman rebrands of it and they sharpened up very well as expected with Vaughans 1085.
About 7 years ago the nearest Sears still had a bunch of them left for $16 so I bought a couple to gift.
I already had 2 modern examples ( gave a 3rd away ) plus a 1960's Craftsman rebrand of it, but when I learned that they were bringing their little 8oz Super sportsman hatchet back for 1 final production run I had to order another a couple weeks ago.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Wz4f0qpw/20231017-120426.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1nLHQtq8)
(https://i.postimg.cc/fTJrLdrw/20231017-131400.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/D83gpShD)
(https://i.postimg.cc/6q1bc6yJ/20231017-143258.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7J0NYk3m)
(https://i.postimg.cc/BQkw1vr2/20231017-174056.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vc7vJGHm)
(https://i.postimg.cc/kgSYNmCz/20231113-151819.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XrVg3tpk)
If I was to buy myself one if their 1.25lb camp hatchets I'd do everything to it that I do to the little 8oz super sportsman hatchets that I love so much, rememove the handle and reprofile it, strip and smooth out the head, then rehang it.
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If you're not familiar with their little 8oz super sportsman hatchet , they were making them for themselves and others continuously since the 60's until about 2 years ago.
A lot of people think they're rare salesman samples ( even though they're very common) or from a child's tool set, but that's not even remotely true.
They're just a small little belt hatchet, mostly intended for hunters.
(https://i.postimg.cc/w3Yz2ktd/20231016-110343.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/p5C3XzY0)
For Craftsman, True Test, LL bean, Palco, and probably some others I haven't come across.
There have also been a number of companies ( like the knife company bark river ) who would spiffy them up to sell at a profit.
Basically if you find a little mini 8oz hatchet that looks like the Vaughan ( they were also shaped slightly different at one time ) then you can bet that it is a V&B , and if you find one with a plain black head, that's the LL bean or Palco version which were unmarked and just had a sticker.
Marbles is basically the only other company who made hatchets this small, and they didn't look the same.
Here's a picture with a bill for scale, I think this was the 1st that I ordered 10 years ago.
(https://i.postimg.cc/WbjpfFDB/20210923-132223.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WtWPd4w8)
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I didn't specifically shop for this hatchet. I was clearing a trail through a section of woods here at the house and needed something hand held to cut down several saplings. I jumped in the truck and went to the local hardware and this is the one they had. Matter of fact, it was the ONLY one they had.
It will also serve me well for splitting kindling for the camp fire. And I can keep it in the rear rack box on one of the ATVs.
Works for me.
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I didn't specifically shop for this hatchet. I was clearing a trail through a section of woods here at the house and needed something hand held to cut down several saplings. I jumped in the truck and went to the local hardware and this is the one they had. Matter of fact, it was the ONLY one they had.
It will also serve me well for splitting kindling for the camp fire. And I can keep it in the rear rack box on one of the ATVs.
Works for me.
You got lucky that the only hatchet that had happened to be a good one, it could have been one of those soft low quality Made in Mexico collins hatchets.
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I have just made a new trigger part for one of my rifles. It was a foray into the area of making a very close tolerance part out of steel. My first thought was that a Dremel rotary tool would be needed so off I went. The prices for what I wanted were too high for me so I went to an auto supply shop and bought a Rockwell tool on a black Friday special. Rockwell might be an America. brand name but this tool was made in China. It was well presented and so far it works satisfactorily. As it turns out the tool was no substitute for a bench grinder, good files and a lathe mounted sanding disc.
It might be handy in time to come but I am pleased that I did not spend a lot of money on something that I didn't really need.
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I use my rotary tool so often that for me it pays to get the best model I can, and I've always been a Dremel Moto tool guy.
I wish they were still made in Racine Wisconsin, but then while I'm at it I also wish Sheridan was still around and made in Racine Wisconsin.
I'm not positive, but I think today the Dremel tools are made or assembled in Mexico?
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Although I used to love my Dremel (early 90s model, I forget which because...) I find my Makita rotary equivalent to be the one I grab the most- referring to their 1/4" die grinder. It's a monster of a rotary tool. I also have an ancient Ryobi that has seen a lot of use. Regardless, a quality rotary tool is wayyyyyyyy up there on the list of tools every person should own, along with slip-joint and needle-nose pliers, a 16-ounce hammer, a pair of vice-grip (or equivalent) pliers, and a quality handsaw.
David- thanks for sharing the info about those hatchets. I have a few Craftsman hatchets plus a number of larger axes, but I find I'm more inclined to use my Parang or my wife's Golok for chopping. Mind you, the brush we clear on our property is pretty gnarly stuff (brambles, greenbrier, blackberry as thick as my wrist, poison ivy/oak/sumac... I was using both my Stihl (made by Fiskars) and Estwing camp axes but those just don't have enough blade length for hacking through thigh-sized vines without a lot of sap splatter.
Regarding those axes made by Fiskars; the edge is very brittle and chipped despite perfect hits on Honey Locust branches that- I kid you not- were barely larger than a pencil diameter. That's without a doubt the toughest wood I've cut thanks to how fibrous it is- even worse than red gum. My Parang handles limbing the locust (and Cedar) trees much easier and with less effort than an axe or hatchet.
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I prefer my Fugi pneumatic die grinders from my tool and die making days at Honda. One in 1/4" and one in 1/8". I also have a couple pencil grinders from those days. I have a box of burrs, bits, stones and collets for them
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Although I used to love my Dremel (early 90s model, I forget which because...) I find my Makita rotary equivalent to be the one I grab the most- referring to their 1/4" die grinder. It's a monster of a rotary tool. I also have an ancient Ryobi that has seen a lot of use. Regardless, a quality rotary tool is wayyyyyyyy up there on the list of tools every person should own, along with slip-joint and needle-nose pliers, a 16-ounce hammer, a pair of vice-grip (or equivalent) pliers, and a quality handsaw.
David- thanks for sharing the info about those hatchets. I have a few Craftsman hatchets plus a number of larger axes, but I find I'm more inclined to use my Parang or my wife's Golok for chopping. Mind you, the brush we clear on our property is pretty gnarly stuff (brambles, greenbrier, blackberry as thick as my wrist, poison ivy/oak/sumac... I was using both my Stihl (made by Fiskars) and Estwing camp axes but those just don't have enough blade length for hacking through thigh-sized vines without a lot of sap splatter.
Regarding those axes made by Fiskars; the edge is very brittle and chipped despite perfect hits on Honey Locust branches that- I kid you not- were barely larger than a pencil diameter. That's without a doubt the toughest wood I've cut thanks to how fibrous it is- even worse than red gum. My Parang handles limbing the locust (and Cedar) trees much easier and with less effort than an axe or hatchet.
For locking pliers I recommend going to Harry J Epsieins and getting a pair of the Malco eagle grips before they're gone.
They have been tested to be the highest quality locking pliers available, sadly they were too expensive for their own good and only stayed in production for a year.
They were the best ever made and there will likely never be such high quality locking pliers made again.
They really did things right too, they bought the original Peterson factory in DeWitt Nebraska and even hired some former employees who knew what they were doing, they did all that and even put out exceptionally high quality pliers instead of just leaning on the legacy instead of just being American made.
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it's hard to talk about tools without talking about prices. I'm also the last one that should, as I'm "difficult". But I can't be alone because I've recently seen a few so-called (told ya I was difficult) bargains. I'm simply unwilling to pay "the new normal" for things like tools.
Example, Dewalt 1/4" impact driver, $99 on black Friday sale. Ryobe was more but here's the kicker. Replacement battery $50 vs $110. So when the battery gives up hello Amazon.
IMO robery, even on sale. I call this time in history the leave no billionaire behind program. millions i get, billions should beget public execution...
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Battery tool prices are insane.
I'm just glad Home Depot has Ryobi Days in the summer, the prices aren't necessarily cheap and you're not getting the largest premium max output batteries but you can get a bit of a deal plus usually pick a free tool which takes some of the sting off.
If I needed better I get it, but Ryobi tools work for me and are pretty darn decent these days.
I can remember a time when the only affordable cordless power tools were Black & Decker stick battery garbage, but now even the cheapest budget drill that Harbor freight sells for under $20 blows that junk out of the water.
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I have always strived for quality tools, not for the price tag, but for their usefulness when needed. I couldn’t always afford the best, but got what I could afford to get the job done. And that’s pretty much how I grew the tools that I have. I have mechanics and tradesmen in my heritage, and a lot of them had impressive amounts and types of tools, but I never really inherited theirs. A few tools here and there, mostly hand tools and not their best, most expensive examples. The past 20 years, my career depended on my having certain tools. My first company I worked for did tool replacement, so you needed to already have them, whatever tools they were. The company I have worked at now, for 13 years, has an annual tool allowance. These past 20 years, I’ve also gotten my tools at wholesale prices. That said, I have gotten higher quality tools, power tools among them. But, I still look for the best deals I can get and usually purchase tools based on what I need to get something done or an upgrade in quality. I used to be a Dewalt guy and upgraded or added as I went. 2 years ago I switched to Milwaukee and I’m glad I did.
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My uncle has been a self employed plumber for the past 30 years or so, and he used to use Ryobi.
One day this tool distributor or something was having a big event with giveaways...etc and he won a Milwaukee battery.
He didn't know what to do with it but found a tool for it that he thought he could use and I guess that converted him to Milwaukee.
He was happy with the Ryobi tools before, but started having issues with the batteries.
It was something to do with the charger banks in his work van and the batteries giving out if they had a certain power level when you charged them.
I think I have an idea of what he was talking about, but modern tool batteries and chargers have technology in them to eliminate that issue.
Not to mention the power level indicators on the batteries.
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It’s true, older batteries would develop “memory”… I learned this with our handheld radios in the Army. Cellphones were the same way. You were better off, for the life of the battery, to drain them dead or near dead before charging. The Milwaukee batteries can be charged anytime, not sure about other brands now. I’ve never been a fan of Ryobi tools, though I’ve owned a couple. In fact, my first corded sawzall was a Ryobi and it served me well until the front broke clean off during a rough sheet metal cut and that first HVAC company replaced it with a corded Milwaukee sawzall, which I still have. That was 18-19 years ago. It didn’t make me switch then, most everything else I had was still Dewalt. Like drills and impact drivers and angle grinders. I didn’t get my first cordless sawzall until this past year and it’s a Milwaukee, of course… I wish now I switched years ago. Although, my favorite angle grinder/cutoff tool is still my flip-safety 4 1/2” corded Dewalt. I use that a lot. The funniest thing is my favorite fishing reel was a Ryobi Vmag-4 bait caster, about 30 years ago, That!, I wish I still had.
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Most of my corded and cordless powered handtools are DeWalt.
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I have just made a new trigger part for one of my rifles. It was a foray into the area of making a very close tolerance part out of steel. My first thought was that a Dremel rotary tool would be needed so off I went. The prices for what I wanted were too high for me so I went to an auto supply shop and bought a Rockwell tool on a black Friday special. Rockwell might be an America. brand name but this tool was made in China. It was well presented and so far it works satisfactorily. As it turns out the tool was no substitute for a bench grinder, good files and a lathe mounted sanding disc.
It might be handy in time to come but I am pleased that I did not spend a lot of money on something that I didn't really need.
The bits used for the job play a major role in how the tool works, most in the kit are for manicures ;)
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I'm with you John, I too started with Dewalt but have since given most of them away to my boys. I too am now a Milwaukee guy, I've got more Milwaukee stuff than you can shake a stick at, I even have Milwaukee markers, "T" shirt, and a bottle opener!
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When I was working construction, I used mainly Hilti and Milwaukee with some Makita. All the DeWalt gus would heckle me... But they realized sooner, not later, their DeWalt tools didn't hold up to commercial, and more importantly, industrial use.
I don't have any DeWalt cordless tools; don't intend to change that, either.
The funny thing- my brother in law is- among several other titles- tool buyer for Dominion Power. He refuses to approve DeWalt tools when any of the lineman need equipment. |Hilti, Milwaukee, Makita, even Ryobi can handle the use and abuse. But his experience with DeWalt mimics mine- good enough for home use only. I'm not saying it is junk- it isn't. But I've only broken one Milwaukee tool in 3+ decades of using them, and technically it was a neighbor who broke it using my Hole-Hawg as a freaking cut-off tool cutting up a trailer using angle-grinder wheels (not cut-off wheels!). Yeah, I never loaned that bozo a tool ever again. "This thing doesn't cut very well..." yeah, no joke- max RPM is like 1200 RPM on hi-speed range. Using an angle-grinder wheel as a cut-off wheel is stupid enough, but at only 1200 RPM, you'll be there FOREVER. Or until the helical overheats, all the grease boils out, and the helical eats itself.
Meanwhile I've seen co-workers drop a DeWalt 3/8 impact driver off a 6 foot ladder, land on the collet, and when picked up, metals chunks fall off the tool. Even my ancient Ryobi (the blue 18v unit) has survives falls off a roof.
However- I do have a DeWalt corded portable table saw- I usually use 7 1/4 blades in it, not the bigger 8 1/4 (mainly to take advantage of slightly narrower kerfs and more blade options) and it's been a good saw. Cut a lot of trim, repaired more than a few paddles (mostly Bending Branch), and handled a lot o household projects. I first tried Metabo (Hitachi, another name I once trusted) and had to return (stripped worm gear on blade height adjuster), then a Makita (misaligned frame; could never get the blade to sit true).
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When I was working construction, I used mainly Hilti and Milwaukee with some Makita. All the DeWalt guys would heckle me... But they realized sooner, not later, their DeWalt tools didn't hold up to commercial, and more importantly, industrial use, the way my Milwaukee stuff did.
I don't have any DeWalt cordless tools; don't intend to change that, either.
The funny thing- my brother in law is- among several other titles- tool buyer for Dominion Power. He refuses to approve DeWalt tools when any of the lineman need equipment. |Hilti, Milwaukee, Makita, even Ryobi can handle the use and abuse. But his experience with DeWalt mimics mine- good enough for home use only. I'm not saying it is junk- it isn't. But I've only broken one Milwaukee tool in 3+ decades of using them, and technically it was a neighbor who broke it using my Hole-Hawg as a freaking cut-off tool cutting up a trailer using angle-grinder wheels (not cut-off wheels!). Yeah, I never loaned that bozo a tool ever again. "This thing doesn't cut very well..." yeah, no joke- max RPM is like 1200 RPM on hi-speed range. Using an angle-grinder wheel as a cut-off wheel is stupid enough, but at only 1200 RPM, you'll be there FOREVER. Or until the helical overheats, all the grease boils out, and the helical eats itself.
Meanwhile I've seen co-workers drop a DeWalt 3/8 impact driver off a 6 foot ladder, land on the collet, and when picked up, metals chunks fall off the tool. Even my ancient Ryobi (the blue 18v unit) has survives falls off a roof.
However- I do have a DeWalt corded portable table saw- I usually use 7 1/4 blades in it, not the bigger 8 1/4 (mainly to take advantage of slightly narrower kerfs and more blade options) and it's been a good saw. Cut a lot of trim, repaired more than a few paddles (mostly Bending Branch), and handled a lot o household projects. I first tried Metabo (Hitachi, another name I once trusted) and had to return (stripped worm gear on blade height adjuster), then a Makita (misaligned frame; could never get the blade to sit true).
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I have a direct factory hookup with Milwaukee, as my bosses son is a R&D tech there :)
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Battery tool prices are insane.
I'm just glad Home Depot has Ryobi Days in the summer, the prices aren't necessarily cheap and you're not getting the largest premium max output batteries but you can get a bit of a deal plus usually pick a free tool which takes some of the sting off.
If I needed better I get it, but Ryobi tools work for me and are pretty darn decent these days.
I can remember a time when the only affordable cordless power tools were Black & Decker stick battery garbage, but now even the cheapest budget drill that Harbor freight sells for under $20 blows that junk out of the water.
I have a lot of Ryobi 18v cordless tools and since the switch away from NiCad batteries I have been very happy with them. The only one I have killed was a brushed chainsaw that I over worked. I just got more batteries and a free pruner since Ryobi Days is currently going on. My wife loves the pruner.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-ONE-HP-18V-Brushless-Cordless-Pruner-Tool-Only-P2505BTL/319698531 (https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-ONE-HP-18V-Brushless-Cordless-Pruner-Tool-Only-P2505BTL/319698531)
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Any of you boys have a saw blade on your weed eater? Seriously considering buying one. Cuts faster through limbs than my chain saw! :o
https://youtu.be/zz7uXZlrPpI?t=429 (https://youtu.be/zz7uXZlrPpI?t=429)
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Any of you boys have a saw blade on your weed eater? Seriously considering buying one. Cuts faster through limbs than my chain saw! :o
https://youtu.be/zz7uXZlrPpI?t=429 (https://youtu.be/zz7uXZlrPpI?t=429)
Yup, we got one (actually two different styles of blades)...
They ARE insanely fast-cutting, however(!)....
I personally would NOT use such a blade on a loop-handle trimmer-they can have a real tendency to bind and kick back!....
Personally don't know why the guy in the vid is slamming the thing into limbs, unless he's trying to avoid binding or his trimmer ain't got enough torque to keep the blade going in a cut, but that's another story...
Also have to watch you size the blade to your trimmer-we have a Stihl MS131 bike-handle trimmer (36 CC), which is rated for 8" blades only...
Which would have a real impact on your maximum limb size...
With the spindle on the Stihl, you end up limited to maybe 2" limbs, if you get the cut perpendicular to the limb...
For the most part though, I don't use it often-the tri-lobe brush knife cuts bigger stuff than you think (3/4, though you can sever 1" if you get RPM's up and make one hit at a time, at least on our briars...); so the saw ends up overall slower, and dulls faster IMO...
YMMV, they're not that expensive; so so long as you size it to your trimmer and be careful-worth a try!...
Jesse
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I put one on my line trimmer to cut soft plants . Unless the machine is specially designed for it I would not recommend it.
More dangerous than useful .
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Here are Project Farms results.
https://youtu.be/HVJz7Gqn_SY
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I once bolted an old skillsaw blade onto a string trimmer. It worked OKish but I figured it was too much weight for the bearings and took it off.
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I think I'll stick with a pole saw. Last thing I need is a saw blade frisbee flying out of control. :o
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I think I'll stick with a pole saw. Last thing I need is a saw blade frisbee flying out of control. :o
LOL. I had a similar vision. My wife didn't seem to want to use it either.
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Ebay tool lots are fun.
(https://i.postimg.cc/pLfLVGXq/20240701-092616.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CRKgm48q)
(https://i.postimg.cc/P5QvVrZX/20240701-093707.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/DSmz8hBH)
There's some interesting stuff in here, but the pick of the lot is probably this NOS original #10 4 in one screwdriver by " 4 in one Screwdriver, INC " who is the originator of this tool that is so ubiquitous today.
(https://i.postimg.cc/d0cZ4ZDS/20240701-103024.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3k9wwRXg)
1970's era I believe, and the quality us excellent.
You don't see many 4 in 1 or 6 in 1 type drivers with acetate handles besides the rubber gripper Klein, and looking these originals up I could only really find the red solid red handles like Enderes uses.
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Eiffel Geared Plierench from the early 1900's. It was given to me by my father-in-law, who received it from his dad.
It has a geared jaw, with crushing force. It also had a pipe cutter attachment jaws for plumbing work (I do not have those).
It was from a time when they just stamped the price right on the tool jaws.
The jaws stay straight and parallel to each other for a bull dog grip.
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Eiffel Geared Plierench from the early 1900's. It was given to me by my father-in-law, who received it from his dad.
It has a geared jaw, with crushing force. It also had a pipe cutter attachment jaws for plumbing work (I do not have those).
It was from a time when they just stamped the price right on the tool jaws.
The jaws stay straight and parallel to each other for a bull dog grip.
Did you get the storage pouch with the different jaws that go with it ?
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Question for the folks here: what tools bag? I find myself in need of a medium size tools bag and all reviews I read seem to be luke warm. So, i figured I'd ask here.
Any and all suggestions are highly appreciated.
Many thanks in advance.
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I prefer a steel cantilever box over a tool bag myself.
But I'm sure somebody here will probably have a recommendation.
These days I see a lot of people using the Milwaukee pack-out tool bag, and those not using it are using some form of Milwaukee pack-out plastic box system.
This stuff isn't cheap though.
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I prefer a steel cantilever box over a tool bag myself.
But I'm sure somebody here will probably have a recommendation.
These days I see a lot of people using the Milwaukee pack-out tool bag, and those not using it are using some form of Milwaukee pack-out plastic box system.
This stuff isn't cheap though.
Don't you know it! I prefer the cantilever boxes too but after my last surgeries I wanted something lighter for just a few things for immediate use around the house. If things get more involved, I'll just go to the garage and get whatever tools are needed. I have a Fanttik S1 Pro 3.7V Electric Screwdriver, small-ish Stanley hammer, drill bits, utility cutter, box with assorted screws and a few other knick-knacks.
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I prefer a steel cantilever box over a tool bag myself.
But I'm sure somebody here will probably have a recommendation.
These days I see a lot of people using the Milwaukee pack-out tool bag, and those not using it are using some form of Milwaukee pack-out plastic box system.
This stuff isn't cheap though.
Don't you know it! I prefer the cantilever boxes too but after my last surgeries I wanted something lighter for just a few things for immediate use around the house. If things get more involved, I'll just go to the garage and get whatever tools are needed. I have a Fanttik S1 Pro 3.7V Electric Screwdriver, small-ish Stanley hammer, drill bits, utility cutter, box with assorted screws and a few other knick-knacks.
It is important that when you get to the garage you can remember what you went out there for!
Ask me how I know
Edward
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I prefer a steel cantilever box over a tool bag myself.
But I'm sure somebody here will probably have a recommendation.
These days I see a lot of people using the Milwaukee pack-out tool bag, and those not using it are using some form of Milwaukee pack-out plastic box system.
This stuff isn't cheap though.
Don't you know it! I prefer the cantilever boxes too but after my last surgeries I wanted something lighter for just a few things for immediate use around the house. If things get more involved, I'll just go to the garage and get whatever tools are needed. I have a Fanttik S1 Pro 3.7V Electric Screwdriver, small-ish Stanley hammer, drill bits, utility cutter, box with assorted screws and a few other knick-knacks.
It is important that when you get to the garage you can remember what you went out there for!
Ask me how I know
Edward
LOL! Ain't that the truth! Been there, done that, and not just once! ;D
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Question for the folks here: what tools bag? I find myself in need of a medium size tools bag and all reviews I read seem to be luke warm. So, i figured I'd ask here.
Any and all suggestions are highly appreciated.
Many thanks in advance.
I have some Milwaukee pack outs for sorting small electrical connectors and plumbing fittings, but my main tool bag is the square CLC tool bag. I’ve used the backpacks by CLC and Klein, but I don’t really need to carry that many tools at once all the time. https://goclc.com/product/8-electrical-maintenance-tool-carrier/
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I use a DeWalt bag that I've had forever.
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I have wooden tote boxes that i made to carry my hand tools to job sites one for wood working/ carpentery tools and one for plumbing.
I could never feel comfortable with plastic or fabric tool bags and always wondered why tradesmen used chinese plastic carryalls. The first job of a carpenery apprentice once was to make himself a tool box.
My workshop is a bit the same. All home made shelves and cabinets and boxes made from recycled timber. It just grew over time
I could not see the point in spending money on new timber for benches and jigs that are going to get marred by use.
I also have difficulty keeping everything tidy and shaving clear. If there is no mess then you haven' t made anything.
Those shop perfect workshops I see on You Tube are enviable but not practical as far as I can see
We could talk tools and workshop for ages. I might learn something.
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Today I did some tool customization / modification.
In that lot of drivers I bought off Ebay I got a good number of bit drivers, but typically when I'm using a bit driver for regular general purpose 1/4 bits it's a ratcheting type.
For me fixed handle bit drivers are something I'm only using with my Chapman kit for gun / airgun and vintage fishing reel work, so I decided to modify a couple to suit this purpose because I have found that I can never have too many driver handles for my Chapman kit.
I try to use the best fitting bit for that screw, and this means I may have as many as 5 different bits out at one time.
1st up is this Magna brand ( interestingly it's not magnetic ) that was in pretty good condition and has a handle that I really love.
(https://i.postimg.cc/v8SfrGHf/20240709-135519.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mhCPRf9g)
For this one I just removed the bit retention ring so the Chapman bits would insert easier, then I took a little burr in my dremel and stippled a section of it for finger turning.
If I could have I would've knurled it.
(https://i.postimg.cc/YCvX6XHq/20240709-135739.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gxPqdHjf)
I love this handle, it fits my hand perfectly.
It's bigger around than the Chapman handles, but having different handle sizes for different situations is a good thing.
(https://i.postimg.cc/8kwwq8kz/20240709-135651.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/14npqjNk)
Next was this one ( shaft clearly from the same factory) which was interestingly branded for True Value Master mechanic and some other company.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Fzny141b/20240709-144554.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/T5gLHBVh)
(https://i.postimg.cc/xC5yDH24/20240709-144548.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/VrSbXJ5q)
As you can see the handle is warped, so I pulled the shank and fit it to a wood handle I took from an APEX specialty driver of some kind that came in that lot.
(https://i.postimg.cc/02QZvtrd/20240709-140143.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PNg1zQWP)
(https://i.postimg.cc/MT6VDTQb/20240709-144531.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Z9QWYJjC)
I may or may not also decide to stipple the shaft of this one but haven't decided yet, I'm not sure this particular handle warrants a textured shaft for finger turning.
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Those plastic handled drivers are similar to some that I have. I have some that i have driven tight fitting plastic water hose over them. Increases the diameter of the handle. Much better grip and power.
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I just used a grocery store bag today for hauling some tools to my mother's shed to work on the mower there. The trans fluid reservoir was cracked and leaking so I cleaned up the mess and removed the factory squeeze hose clamp that was a total beyoch to remove then replaced it with a proper fastening hose clamp and installed the new reservoir then topped off the fluid in it. I carried the socket set to the shed in one hand and the bag of misc tools in the other. The drill poked a hole in the bag but it held everything in it there and back to the house without issue. Would've been best to have a proper tool bag but don't have one. Could've used the backpack but did fine without it.
Careful when installing the plastic reservoirs guys or they'll crack if you tighten the nuts anything over 5lbs probably.
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I just used a grocery store bag today for hauling some tools to my mother's shed to work on the mower there. The trans fluid reservoir was cracked and leaking so I cleaned up the mess and removed the factory squeeze hose clamp that was a total beyoch to remove then replaced it with a proper fastening hose clamp and installed the new reservoir then topped off the fluid in it. I carried the socket set to the shed in one hand and the bag of misc tools in the other. The drill poked a hole in the bag but it held everything in it there and back to the house without issue. Would've been best to have a proper tool bag but don't have one. Could've used the backpack but did fine without it.
Careful when installing the plastic reservoirs guys or they'll crack if you tighten the nuts anything over 5lbs probably.
That makes me glad I have so many tool boxes...etc.
I like to be over prepared, so I'll bring a full toolbox when it turns out I only ended up needing a #2 driver and pair of slipjoint pliers.
If I wasn't so paranoid about not having every tool I need, I could just throw a few things in a small tool tote or bag...etc
I can't tell you how many times I wasted energy bringing a 30lb full toolbox to fix something for my mom when I only needed a couple tools, but I'm always happy to know I didn't have to go grab a cheap Chinese tool from the place down the street because I was unprepared.
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David you sound like me. Most jobs my kids ask me to do turn into more jobs so I carry every toolbox I can from plumbing to electrical. A 30 minute job can turn into a 2 hour job if you forget to take a certain tool and have to drive into town to buy a tool you have but forgot to bring.
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David you sound like me. Most jobs my kids ask me to do turn into more jobs so I carry every toolbox I can from plumbing to electrical. A 30 minute job can turn into a 2 hour job if you forget to take a certain tool and have to drive into town to buy a tool you have but forgot to bring.
Thankfully if fixing something for my mom I can see the tool store from her house.
They get lots of American made closeouts and NOS tools that I love to buy however that's never the kind of specific tool one would likely be needing, in a pinch which would probably be cheapo bottom of the barrel pipe wrench or pair of extra long pliers or something that they stock regularly.
I can go there and get the job done but I'd hate having to spend my hard earned money on those kinds of tools
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My handy tool bag for projects is a cat liter bucket, I adapted that from the 5 gallon pails a canning factory mechanic used back in the day. I like the reclose able lid. In my golf truck tool box I have similar square pails that I secured the lids on and cut in half length wise, to make tool trays I can pull out with specific tools in each tray.
(https://image.chewy.com/is/image/catalog/78095_MAIN._AC_SL600_V1717599041_.jpg)
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5 gal buckets are great. They also provide for a stool to sit on while working low. They make compartment bags that fit around the inside/outside of them to keep tools sorted.
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5 gal buckets are great. They also provide for a stool to sit on while working low. They make compartment bags that fit around the inside/outside of them to keep tools sorted.
LOL I had a bucket with the bags, I thing the landscaping department stole it, I did not care for it, too organized ??? LOL
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5 gal buckets are great. They also provide for a stool to sit on while working low. They make compartment bags that fit around the inside/outside of them to keep tools sorted.
LOL I had a bucket with the bags, I thing the landscaping department stole it, I did not care for it, too organized ??? LOL
Nice guys you work with, James
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5 gal buckets are great. They also provide for a stool to sit on while working low. They make compartment bags that fit around the inside/outside of them to keep tools sorted.
LOL I had a bucket with the bags, I thing the landscaping department stole it, I did not care for it, too organized ??? LOL
I had one of those bucket bags, one of my plumber grandsons ended up with it.
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When I head out to install I almost have a cabinet shop on wheels but a lot of times if I know I'm not going to need but just a few things I'll load up one of my Milwaukee bags with just what I need. No sense to unload every thing in the van. These items here are almost always in my bag.
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So earlier today I looked into ordering one of the new wood tool boards that Chapman mfg offers for their bit driver sets.
I watched a couple of their quick YouTube videos they posted about them to get a good idea of the features and decided to bite the bullet.
They started one video by saying " if you're a fan of Chapman tools " , of course I'm a huge fan so I had to comment about why I love their products and mention that their video had convinced me to make the tool board purchase.
A few minutes later I got a response to my comment thanking me for the support and love of their products, they also had made the connection between my comment and my order and told me they had just received my order which they would ship tomorrow.
That is the kind of customer service/ product dedication you wanna see and just another reason why I love supporting not only American production but multigenerational family own American tool manufacturers who offer high quality products and know what their customers want.
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So earlier today I looked into ordering one of the new wood tool boards that Chapman mfg offers for their bit driver sets.
I watched a couple of their quick YouTube videos they posted about them to get a good idea of the features and decided to bite the bullet.
They started one video by saying " if you're a fan of Chapman tools " , of course I'm a huge fan so I had to comment about why I love their products and mention that their video had convinced me to make the tool board purchase.
A few minutes later I got a response to my comment thanking me for the support and love of their products, they also had made the connection between my comment and my order and told me they had just received my order which they would ship tomorrow.
That is the kind of customer service/ product dedication you wanna see and just another reason why I love supporting not only American production but multigenerational family own American tool manufacturers who offer high quality products and know what their customers want.
I don't have the tool board, but I do have some Chapman tools. And I'm a big fan of them. They are well made and last. If you wear a bit out, you can order some high quality replacements for under $3 per bit. I've used them since the early 80's. Very nice people to deal with and their product just works. My first set was the gun smithing set (8900) which I bought 4 decades ago. I got a lot of work done with that basic set. (Still use it!) Recently (last year) I treated myself to the Mity Master set. Still made in the USA, since 1936.
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So earlier today I looked into ordering one of the new wood tool boards that Chapman mfg offers for their bit driver sets.
I watched a couple of their quick YouTube videos they posted about them to get a good idea of the features and decided to bite the bullet.
They started one video by saying " if you're a fan of Chapman tools " , of course I'm a huge fan so I had to comment about why I love their products and mention that their video had convinced me to make the tool board purchase.
A few minutes later I got a response to my comment thanking me for the support and love of their products, they also had made the connection between my comment and my order and told me they had just received my order which they would ship tomorrow.
That is the kind of customer service/ product dedication you wanna see and just another reason why I love supporting not only American production but multigenerational family own American tool manufacturers who offer high quality products and know what their customers want.
I don't have the tool board, but I do have some Chapman tools. And I'm a big fan of them. They are well made and last. If you wear a bit out, you can order some high quality replacements for under $3 per bit. I've used them since the early 80's. Very nice people to deal with and their product just works. My first set was the gun smithing set (8900) which I bought 4 decades ago. I got a lot of work done with that basic set. (Still use it!) Recently (last year) I treated myself to the Mity Master set. Still made in the USA, since 1936.
Yep still family owned and operated.
I started with the little 16 piece pocket set just to try out and love it so much that things spiraled from there.
I'm on my 4th case because I keep outgrowing them from all the driver handles I use so I don't have to constantly swap bits.
I believe I have every size of flat blade that they make and the 3 racks worth of bits are all I really need.
If this was for more general purpose use I'd consider buying the ball hex bits and some other things like star / torx but I just don't need 'em.
I wanted to get a complete set of the long hex bits, but the full set went out of stock so I've been waiting and just found out that they don't actually plan on making anymore.
I can just buy whatever sizes are left bit the sizes I really need are gone.
I was surprised at how affordable the individual bits were when I started buying them, and when I went to replace the couple I had broke ( those 2 bits were far less expensive than breaking the unobtainable old screws ) .
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Bantam good thinking. I had several tool boxes I could've brought but I knew they didn't have the tools I needed.
BR now that I can do next time. ;)
Bill who sells the bucket sorters?
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Bantam good thinking. I had several tool boxes I could've brought but I knew they didn't have the tools I needed.
BR now that I can do next time. ;)
Bill who sells the bucket sorters?
I suppose any auto parts store, Amazon or Harbor Freight. Mine is actually from a show and shine car show.
Search 5 gallon bucket tool organizer.
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Bantam good thinking. I had several tool boxes I could've brought but I knew they didn't have the tools I needed.
BR now that I can do next time. ;)
Bill who sells the bucket sorters?
The most popular is the Bucket boss which I think may have been the original product ?
They even make a little one for a coffee mug to organize pens ...etc on your desk.
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Thanks guys I'll look into it. ;)
Got a 3ft long pry bar from harbor freight for $15 yesterday which quickly did the trick pushing tension against the pulley and belt to tighten the pulley down in place since the piece of squeeze isn't spring tensioned like it should be.
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Oh yah they have a ton of options ↓ and bags too thanks David.
https://bucketboss.com/collections/bucket-organizers/products/bucket-seat
(https://bucketboss.com/cdn/shop/files/Tool_Bags_Focus.jpg?v=1716215632&width=1080)
(https://bucketboss.com/cdn/shop/files/LG_IMG_w_Text_Box_Duckwear.jpg?v=1709152464&width=1920)
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I actually paid attention to the bucket bag I have. It's a Harley Davidson Ride and Shine bucket seat kit. I now use it as the cooling water bucket for the Hong Heng compressor since I no longer own a Harley.
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That bucket boss set with the different colored plastic trays is pretty cool.
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I got this bucket boss parachute bag for $18 on ebay. ;)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/wa4AAOSwZHVlxT4e/s-l1600.webp)
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I used to have the bucket boss with the toilet seat, wonder where that went ???
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I used to have the bucket boss with the toilet seat, wonder where that went ???
LOL... I told Betty Lou I would make her one. From the shop she always have to go in the house to potty.. I just step around the corner and let 'er rip.
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I used to have the bucket boss with the toilet seat, wonder where that went ???
LOL... I told Betty Lou I would make her one. From the shop she always have to go in the house to potty.. I just step around the corner and let 'er rip.
LOL, country living. I always say "I don't want to live anywhere I can't peee, shoot or ride dirt bikes in the back yard".
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I used to have the bucket boss with the toilet seat, wonder where that went ???
LOL... I told Betty Lou I would make her one. From the shop she always have to go in the house to potty.. I just step around the corner and let 'er rip.
LOL, country living. I always say "I don't want to live anywhere I can't peee, shoot or ride dirt bikes in the back yard".
Ya got that right!! 👍😜
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I used to have the bucket boss with the toilet seat, wonder where that went ???
LOL... I told Betty Lou I would make her one. From the shop she always have to go in the house to potty.. I just step around the corner and let 'er rip.
LOL, country living. I always say "I don't want to live anywhere I can't peee, shoot or ride dirt bikes in the back yard".
Ya got that right!! 👍😜
zactly
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I used to have the bucket boss with the toilet seat, wonder where that went ???
LOL... I told Betty Lou I would make her one. From the shop she always have to go in the house to potty.. I just step around the corner and let 'er rip.
I hope you use tp afterward so you don't smell like someone I know on tv always pooping himself.
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I used to have the bucket boss with the toilet seat, wonder where that went ???
LOL... I told Betty Lou I would make her one. From the shop she always have to go in the house to potty.. I just step around the corner and let 'er rip.
I hope you use tp afterward so you don't smell like someone I know on tv always pooping himself.
LOL... there are certain bodily functions I do go in the house for.. I ain't a complete animal. ::)
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hehe :P
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I used to have the bucket boss with the toilet seat, wonder where that went ???
LOL... I told Betty Lou I would make her one. From the shop she always have to go in the house to potty.. I just step around the corner and let 'er rip.
I hope you use tp afterward so you don't smell like someone I know on tv always pooping himself.
LOL... there are certain bodily functions I do go in the house for.. I ain't a complete animal. ::)
https://youtu.be/-nHNHIDduH4?feature=shared
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My Chapman tool board arrived.
(https://i.postimg.cc/g0B1489g/20240718-130730.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/kVKjgVgS)
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Well that is not what I thought it would be but it's super cool. I would leave it raw and let it patina naturally.
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Looks like it might be fairly easy to made.
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Looks like it might be fairly easy to made.
If you have a CNC router or something maybe.
Otherwise it's well beyond my skill level to cut the perfectly sized bit strip pockets and the pockets for each rack that's held in with magnets...etc.
I envy the skill of anybody who could make this fairly easily, if I had those skills I could have made this for under $100.
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Well that is not what I thought it would be but it's super cool. I would leave it raw and let it patina naturally.
It comes clear coated.
I think being cool is kind of the main purpose of this really, otherwise they easily could have just offered some kind of plastic thing that hooks to a pegboard.
If it didn't have the cool lazer engraved Chapman logo I'm not sure I'd have wanted to buy it, but it does offer a bit of a practical solution for me since I've outgrown every kind of case they offer.
The ability to stand on it's own is cool / nice, but since you're mounting it to the wall with 4 screws you pretty much have to choose one or the other.
Being able to easily take the whole thing off the wall would be cool, so I think I'll have to come up with some sort of solution for this.
I'm thinking just a couple pegs in the wall I can pull it right off of instead of permanently mounting it with screws.
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The old tool box I had like forever finally fell apart. Because I don't need/want anything elaborate, I went to Walmart and got a new one.
That was just a little back ground to get to the real issue: What kind of material is used in these plastic boxes that causes them to smell like 'BODY ODOR"?
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The old tool box I had like forever finally fell apart. Because I don't need/want anything elaborate, I went to Walmart and got a new one.
That was just a little back ground to get to the real issue: What kind of material is used in these plastic boxes that causes them to smell like 'BODY ODOR"?
Xcellite screwdrivers smell like puke to me, but they're really good tools.
Hunter
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Xcellite screwdrivers smell like puke to me, but they're really good tools.
Probably recycled milk jugs.
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No clue either, but once you get past the smell of Ballastoil it is great stuff ???
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I have some old screwdrivers that smell like vomit and one set of grips on a Crosman 150 does too. I wish I knew how to get rid of JUST that smell!
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Toss them in the garbage and get new ones then that will take care of it Dan, or use a chip clip on your nose if you don't want to toss em. You won't smell em and you'll crack up your wife while fixing things.
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Toss them in the garbage and get new ones then that will take care of it Dan, or use a chip clip on your nose if you don't want to toss em. You won't smell em and you'll crack up your wife while fixing things.
A chip clip, are saying my nose is huge? :o
;) ;D
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Only your brain of that I'm certain, well and your dog too.
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Xcellite screwdrivers smell like puke to me, but they're really good tools.
Probably recycled milk jugs.
The Xcelite, Vacco, Craftsman, and many other screwdrivers use / used Butyl Acetate for their screwdriver handles and the particular formula used breaks down over time which is responsible for that puke smell.
That is why you'll see powdery white surface
On them over time.
PROTO S-K Klein & MAC screwdrivers were also made with some form of Acetate but whatever formula they used is more stable and does not break down in this way.
There was a company called A&L handles, they were a division of Pratt-reed who was until a few years aggo the oldest screwdriver manufacturer in the US ( then Ideal shut them down )and a screwdriver OEM for countless companies over the years.
A&L handles made a ton of handles for a large majority of screwdrivers in the US, and I would imagine that they were responsible for the smelly acetate handles because they were a division of P-R who definitely used the Butyl Acetate on their drivers.
In recent years they had changed something and their handles came new with a chemical kind of smell ( probably to combat the puke smell they develop over time) but they still do develop that puke smell.
The Xcelite and Vacco handles are the very worst of it, but definitely not the only ones.
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I have some old screwdrivers that smell like vomit and one set of grips on a Crosman 150 does too. I wish I knew how to get rid of JUST that smell!
You can clean and clear coat them to trap the smell, but they are made of Butyl Acetate which decomposes over time ( I'll bet your 150 grips have a white buildup on the under side ) and that cannot be stopped nor the smell actually eliminated.
It's a real shame too, because there's not so many good quality screwdrivers being made in the US today, and who want's to toss otherwise high quality tools just because they smell bad.
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I have a set of these white the white crusty film. on them that I inherited from my BIL. Never really noticed the smell. I have new drivers that I use... nothing special like some of you folks.
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I have a set of these white the white crusty film. on them that I inherited from my BIL. Never really noticed the smell. I have new drivers that I use... nothing special like some of you folks.
I first learned about it when I was a teenager.
I had an old flambeau tackle box I gave my grandmother who put tools in it and I thought the smell came from having left Catfish bait in it.
Then I inherited my grandfather's waterloo top box that had the same smell and some of the same screwdrivers in it.
I made the connection and did some research.
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Not trying to change the subject, but possilby appropriate for you toolfreaks, maybe someone can tell me what this tool is for. Clearly, pliers. But the nose is intended for something round? I just don't know what. So, please, name that tool
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Might be a fuse puller.
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Might be a fuse puller.
Good call. I was thinking dental tool :)
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Good guess! I didn't know fuse pullers were even a thing. But looked it up and there are similar pliers with rounded tips on Amazon, although none quite with this design. Somehow I ended up with a set of these, with different sized tips, I guess for different sized fuses. Gave some away as people had some obscure purpose that they were suited for, like holding something round while drilling.
BackRoads, you might want to change your dentist.
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It may be a fuse puller, but they are usually non-metallic (non-conductive). That would work just fine as long as you don't get shocked.
I've used a similar tools for holding round standoffs, round threaded spacers, but the round part was close to the hinge point.
Hunter
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I think these are a type of hose grip pliers.
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With all these toolfreaks and tools there must be lot of workshop potterers, DIY blokes and tradesmen who have workshops . I have and thought it would be good to have a show your shop thread. I would start one but photos are essential for that and they are beyond me.
Remember if there is no mess you haven't done anything .
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"Remember if there is no mess you haven't done anything"
So, if there is a huge mess, does it mean you have done something? I always thought my work area messes were just a reflection of a cluttered mind. Maybe I got a lot of things done but just don't remember them all.
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Yes to all counts Beullm2.
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My garage workshop is never something I'm proud to photograph because it's always embarrassingly messy.
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"Remember if there is no mess you haven't done anything"
So, if there is a huge mess, does it mean you have done something? I always thought my work area messes were just a reflection of a cluttered mind. Maybe I got a lot of things done but just don't remember them all.
My son in-law is a retired marine master guns and his garage is spotless even just 30 to 60 minutes after doing any work in there. Me, my wife is constantly ragging on me how messy my garage and airgun shed is.🫨 My problem is I always have to many projects going at once and it takes forever to get them done.
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Being retired and trying to keep myself motivated and moving around I move from one project to another. Some I don't even plan until I begin them. I rarely clean and organize between them until frustration sets in due to not being able to find something I need. That's when I halt all projects and get stuff cleaned up and put away. That usually results in one of two things...
Either the cycle begins again where I left off or I find something during the clean up and that dang secret squirrel shows up.
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I have a friend in Louisiana that was a professional mechanic/machinist/designer. He did welding, mechanics (both gas and diesel), designed and built stuff. [Once he built a riding lawn mower out of a FORD Econoline]. He had a wall with nails/pegs for hanging hammers, sockets, wrenches, screwdrivers. etc. It was mostly empty - the tools were spread around the shop with a large number on the main worktable. **BUT, he knew where they were.** I could never find what he asked me to get while he was elbow deep in a diesel.
Organized? ** - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - **
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I have a friend in Louisiana that was a professional mechanic/machinist/designer. He did welding, mechanics (both gas and diesel), designed and built stuff. [Once he built a riding lawn mower out of a FORD Econoline]. He had a wall with nails/pegs for hanging hammers, sockets, wrenches, screwdrivers. etc. It was mostly empty - the tools were spread around the shop with a large number on the main worktable. **BUT, he knew where they were.** I could never find what he asked me to get while he was elbow deep in a diesel.
Organized? ** - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - **
I have a place for most tools and some I am quite OCD about keeping exactly where they belong, but there are tools I use so often I just set them down wherever it's most convenient when I'm done.
Eventually I'll clean up and put those tools back where they go, then I'll always try to keep everything organized but I don't have the room to store away some things in a manner that I can get to them without making a mess that inadvertently sets off the tornado alley mess all over again.
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I just sold my tools . 40 year collection of automotive tools for European cars. It thought it was going to be a traumatic thing to let go of them. But as I was loading them up I realized they are really of no use to me because the cars they are used to repair are gone. All rusted away or crushed.
Now I feel like a have lost an anchor and I am having too much fun picking out a PCP target rifle.
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I just sold my tools . 40 year collection of automotive tools for European cars. It thought it was going to be a traumatic thing to let go of them. But as I was loading them up I realized they are really of no use to me because the cars they are used to repair are gone. All rusted away or crushed.
Now I feel like a have lost an anchor and I am having too much fun picking out a PCP target rifle.
Good for you, Eric. I have a fellow HVAC tech that’s retiring this year tell me he don’t care if he’ll ever see the inside of an air conditioner ever again. I hope to someday feel the same.
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I don’t think I’ll retire anytime soon. I am an ADAS technician. That is the new radar and camera stuff in newer cars. I use a lap top and special stuff to fix cars. So I don’t use wrenches and sockets anymore. Much less tools to replace cylinder heads on 1982 v8 Mercedes.
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This afternoon one of my girls gave me a very heavy wooden box filled with old ammunition. Buried under some ammo was this nice Chapman gun screwdriver set. The insides looks unused. Too bad the outside is a little scuffed.
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This afternoon one of my girls gave me a very heavy wooden box filled with old ammunition. Buried under some ammo was this nice Chapman gun screwdriver set. The insides looks unused. Too bad the outside is a little scuffed.
What an awesome find.
Be careful that you don't start using that set and get hooked on Chapman.
It's very easy to start wanting other handles, the palm ratchet, and other bits...etc.
Plus they currently offer 15 different flat blade tips ( and a specialty stepped flat blade for 1911's ) which your kit doesn't seem to include and it can be easy to want those sizes once the set becomes your go-to.
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I have a giant sized Wheeler Engineering gunsmith screwdriver set which I use regularly. I'm not sure if I'll be using the Chapman set at all. Maybe I'll use it as a range set. It does seem really nicely made.
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Picked up a table top 10" table saw at a second hand joint a couple days ago for $50. It's complete and runs great.
I have it clamped to a set of saw horses right now and the first project will be to rip down some 2x6 boards I have and built a stand for it.
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I have a giant sized Wheeler Engineering gunsmith screwdriver set which I use regularly. I'm not sure if I'll be using the Chapman set at all. Maybe I'll use it as a range set. It does seem really nicely made.
The quality on the Chapman bits is miles ahead of the cheap Chinese wheeler.
One thing you may also find you like if you shar using the Chapman is the built in finger turn, it's great for finesse on a small screw.
Being able to run a screw in with your fingers then throw a handle on it and really dnug the screw down is great.
I know you can do this with a regular hex bit, but the grip on the Chapman bits is so much better.
Also the fact that you can use the handle without an extension for a stubby driver that offers more control that a fixed long shank is great too.
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Picked up a table top 10" table saw at a second hand joint a couple days ago for $50. It's complete and runs great.
I have it clamped to a set of saw horses right now and the first project will be to rip down some 2x6 boards I have and built a stand for it.
That is something I have needed for a long time but never got around to buying.
It seems most of the affordable options don't really have good fences for accurate cuts so I haven't really settled on a make / model yet.
I will eventually, but it's not that high of a priority though.
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Picked up a table top 10" table saw at a second hand joint a couple days ago for $50. It's complete and runs great.
I have it clamped to a set of saw horses right now and the first project will be to rip down some 2x6 boards I have and built a stand for it.
I love table saws, I have a large 10" Craftsman belt driven cast iron table saw and a smaller lightweight job site Hitachi 10" direct table saw. What brand asnd type did you find? Pictures would be great.....
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Picked up a table top 10" table saw at a second hand joint a couple days ago for $50. It's complete and runs great.
I have it clamped to a set of saw horses right now and the first project will be to rip down some 2x6 boards I have and built a stand for it.
I love table saws, I have a large 10" Craftsman belt driven cast iron table saw and a smaller lightweight job site Hitachi 10" direct table saw. What brand asnd type did you find? Pictures would be great.....
It's one of those brands that Harbor Freight sells. I think they sell for like $159. Master Mechanic.
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Picked up a table top 10" table saw at a second hand joint a couple days ago for $50. It's complete and runs great.
I have it clamped to a set of saw horses right now and the first project will be to rip down some 2x6 boards I have and built a stand for it.
I love table saws, I have a large 10" Craftsman belt driven cast iron table saw and a smaller lightweight job site Hitachi 10" direct table saw. What brand asnd type did you find? Pictures would be great.....
I also have one of those old Craftsman cast iron, belt drive, 10" table saws. Got it used over 40 years ago. I've used it a lot and it still makes precise cuts. It's an excellent tool and I'll have it as long as I am able to use it although sometimes I think it would be nice to have a modern lightweight portable table saw. Sears had a lot of great stuff back in the olden days.
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I have a cast-iron tablesaw. Have had it for coming up 50 years. I can remember where I bought it new for 663 dollars. It is NZ made and I have replaced the spindle bearings once. A very handy saw. I have looked at the light weight Makita and other tables saws. Compared to caste iron they are pretty shoddy for the price and will not last.
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Dad had a Craftsman radial arm saw when I was growing up. He built our barn, remodeled and put a bar in our basement and built a cabin in Penn. with that thing. I'd like to have one but I don't build enough to warrant the cost of one. Between this table saw and the 10" DeWalt chop saw and stand I can do all I do. Like I said above, I also picked up a router table that I need to get a router for. I'll scour the pawn shops for a deal on one.
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Tools. Another addiction. I still comb the flea markets for stuff that I don't need and a trip the Mitre10 reminds me of my excitment as a child in a toy shop. All those colourful new tools Never did grow up: never will
A show your workshop thread still in my mind . Photos, that's the hurdle
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Picked up a table top 10" table saw at a second hand joint a couple days ago for $50. It's complete and runs great.
I have it clamped to a set of saw horses right now and the first project will be to rip down some 2x6 boards I have and built a stand for it.
I love table saws, I have a large 10" Craftsman belt driven cast iron table saw and a smaller lightweight job site Hitachi 10" direct table saw. What brand asnd type did you find? Pictures would be great.....
It's one of those brands that Harbor Freight sells. I think they sell for like $159. Master Mechanic.
Master Mechanic is the house brand for True Value hardware stores.
Most M-M tools you'll find will be wrenches and screwdrivers and socket sets...etc so the name makes sense, but it's just funny to see table saws routers and circ saws and various other woodworking tools labeled " MASTER MECHANIC ".
Their tools were mostly American made, but like Sears/ Craftsman most of the power tools went over seas in the 90's.
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I needed the useless short shelves off the back patio work table that took up half the space and I could not unscrew them how they were mounted to the table likely due to rust from being old so I got the sawzall and made quick work of removing the shelves then tossed them onto the burn pile in the woods. Now I have a nice sized table for whatever I need to place there at the time so nothing else falls off when I try to set it there as happened the other day. Love those saws!
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I guess I lied about the brand of the table saw. It's actually a Central Machinery.
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I guess I lied about the brand of the table saw. It's actually a Central Machinery.
Central Machinery is a brand of Harbor Freight Tools that offers a variety of industrial and workshop equipment.
I have some various tools from HF that are good and some that are not so good.
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Tools. Another addiction. I still comb the flea markets for stuff that I don't need and a trip the Mitre10 reminds me of my excitment as a child in a toy shop. All those colourful new tools Never did grow up: never will
A show your workshop thread still in my mind . Photos, that's the hurdle
Only difference between men and boys is the price of their toys! 😁
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I guess I lied about the brand of the table saw. It's actually a Central Machinery.
Central Machinery is a brand of Harbor Freight Tools that offers a variety of industrial and workshop equipment.
I have some various tools from HF that are good and some that are not so good.
I checked out the tightness of the bearings and all the position adjustments at the store before I bought it. They all seemed good. I also smelled the motor to see if it smelled burnt. Then when I got it home I ripped a 2' scrap 2x4 with it. It worked great without any weird sounds. As little as I'll be using it, it should last me a good while.
And the price was right. ;)
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I guess I lied about the brand of the table saw. It's actually a Central Machinery.
Reminds me like my uncle used to say, "There you went fibbin' again". Why yes he did wear overalls how could you tell? hehe
Unlike most people you made it right where your word counts. Glad you got a good deal and that it works good.
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If I were going to depend on the saw to earn a living I would have gone for a better brand at a much higher price... and new for the warranty.
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Yes a tool that does the job is a good tool . Sometimes a second tier tool is all that is needed and often they last a long time . I have never bought an expensive battery drill because an expensive one is just as broken as a cheaper one if dropped from scaffolding.
So far I have been lucky . The only tool I have wrecked in short order was a cheap skill saw that I bought to cut concrete and tar seal. It did the job and was cheaper than hiring a concrete saw . Even that lasted a bit.
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Agree, a tool that does the job is a good tool. Some years ago, I needed a rotary hammer [SDS] drill to do a couple of holes in a foundation. A rental was going to cost about $40 and the neighborhood Harbor Freight had a H---i knock-off for $50. Bought the HF, 20+ years and lots of holes later, still running good. A note on the HF cordless tools, they tend to change battery styles too often, there is a work around though if the tool works ok and you have battery issues. Amazon has battery 'adapters' for 10 or 12 bucks that adapt a Rigid or Dewalt battery to whatever that needs 18~20v. So far, I've adapted a HF right angle drill and a cut-out tool to Rigid batteries. Works better than the original.
;)
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Yes a tool that does the job is a good tool . Sometimes a second tier tool is all that is needed and often they last a long time . I have never bought an expensive battery drill because an expensive one is just as broken as a cheaper one if dropped from scaffolding.
So far I have been lucky . The only tool I have wrecked in short order was a cheap skill saw that I bought to cut concrete and tar seal. It did the job and was cheaper than hiring a concrete saw . Even that lasted a bit.
You can go too cheap with stuff like the Harbor freight warrior brand or those off brand Homeowner starter tool kits where the tools are made of weak toy grade plastic and the batteries don't last, but sticking to the better HF tool lines and any name brands from the big box stores and you'll be fine.
I went with Ryobi for the battery platform that doesn't change, but there's 2 companies who own / make most of the brands ( TTI and S-B&D ) and they all meet a base level of build quality...etc
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What happened to my HF cordless was the charger croaked and charging became a hassle. My main cordless are Dewalt [made in Mexico] and Rigid so I only need 2 chargers and replacements are readily available. The Rigid tools also offer a 'lifetime warranty' with conditions, they have treated me pretty good over the past 25 or so years. I got into Dewalt because, years ago, the tool availability was somewhat different from Rigid. From what I understand, the orange Rigid tools are made by the same Chicom company that does Ryobi and Milwaukee. Techtronic Industries out of Hong Kong, but it is a confusing web of licensing and marketing agreements. HF tools are made by a variety of companies.
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I picked up a Proyama Line trimmer, only it is more than the trimmer. Articulated hedgetrimmer, 10" polesaw, brush blades, with an additional center extension to give LOTS of reach. It is a big power head- 40+ cc and it takes 50:1 mix. That was my birthday present to myself. And my wife's recent birthday resulted in a very-gently low-hours Scag 36" belt-drive walk-behind. Which she absolutely loves. It has the Advantage deck and a V-twin Kawasaki engine- and MAYBE 40 hours of use.
Interesting tidbit: I'm very partial to my Milwaukee M18 tools but my brother in law has a buncha Makita tools. We found Amazon has adaptors to use M18 on Makita and vice versa, so the battery interchangeability has been really handy. Of special note is his 16" Makita cordless chainsaw- uses 2 18v batteries. That thing is an utter CHAMP with chisel-grind chains. It kept up with my Stihls and the Ego 18" on the Osage and Locust.
I've also contemplating getting the Ego commercial linetrimmer now (3-speed, carbon fiber goodies, larger cut path and holds up to .105 line)- the "regular" Ego linetrimmer has been working hard this summer- and the lack of engine means my wife really enjoys using it.
I'm as bad with weedwackers as some of us are with airguns.
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You should check out torque test channel, some tools don't deliver optimal performance when using these cheap battery adapters.
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Peter I was interested in that trimmer so I looked it up. Over $400 for it and charger NOT included forget that mess! I'll stick with the $100 Stihl trimmers.
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Any of you guys ever bolt a skilsaw blade onto your weed whacker? Engine on mine isn't really powerful enough to keep the skilsaw blade up to speed when you push it too hard cutting brush. It's probably not too good for the bearings either.
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Thought about it but didn't do it.
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I picked up this 1970's PROTO screwdriver for 25 cents at a yardsale today, my 1st thought was that it had been modified in some way, but it's absolutely a factory screwdriver and they seem to be quite scarce.
(https://i.postimg.cc/SKSZN11H/20240914-184820.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/v4K70hsv)
(https://i.postimg.cc/CKccZCW5/20240914-184922.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/B81TkFZf)
At 6.5" overall it seems small for a 7/32" screwdriver with a beefy 1/4 square shank, maybe it just seems that way because the handle is a bit undersized.
It's the size of handle I'd expect on a #1 phillips, not a beefy 7/32 flat blade.
I have to assume it probably wasn't a very popular size, I certainly don't imagine myself really using it
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Pro jekt dun. I had to use 5 inch screws to keep the snapon stuffs from yeeting them selves ontop of my head.
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Bantam that don't look like a 70s driver it's it such nice shape and for that cheap good find for sure!
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Bantam that don't look like a 70s driver it's it such nice shape and for that cheap good find for sure!
I'm guessing it just wasn't a size the original owner found very useful.
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I just picked up this 1999 delta 8.5" compound miter saw for $70 at goodwill.
I don't know if the price was very good or not, but I didn't have one and it works.
(https://i.postimg.cc/280NmPyx/20240916-184632.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rKRPNZSd)
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Earlier this year it was announced that Vaughan & Bushnell was shutting down and I was quite sad to hear about it.
Then good news and bad, and just the other day I noticed their website was MIA.
well I finally found some conformation.
https://youtu.be/OokVJiyhxNE?si=GyFiGU1kJi8VPyCE
They didn't just buy or possibly even get the Vaughan name, so it's likely that they will keep production here in the USA at least for a few more years.
If they aren't able to use the V&B name I sure hope that the name doesn't get purchased by somebody using it on useless imports.
I will definitely not be happy if Home Depot stopped selling real hammers only to then start offering some Chinese made hammer shaped objects under the Vaughan name.
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A few months ago I ordered a blade for my DeWalt chop saw. I went to put it on today and realized I bought a 10" blade and my saw is a 12". The good news is that the table saw I picked up a while back will use the 10" blade. I ordered a new 12" DeWalt 40T all purpose blade for the chop saw.
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A few months ago I ordered a blade for my DeWalt chop saw. I went to put it on today and realized I bought a 10" blade and my saw is a 12". The good news is that the table saw I picked up a while back will use the 10" blade. I ordered a new 12" DeWalt 40T all purpose blade for the chop saw.
When I bought this saw thet had a NOS Craftsman 8.5" blade sitting on the floor behind the counter next to it and I was going to grab it along with this saw but completely forgot until I was headed home.
Thankfully this blade is the barely used original that cuts beautifully.
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Warrantied my bent dikes and got upgraded to a newer style with half regular cut and half flush cut which is very nice. While on there I figured I had way too much money in my account and bought some new stripper crimpers. They do uninsulated and insulated terminals.
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This HJE order just arrived today.
(https://i.postimg.cc/jjZHZYF3/20240918-105801.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sBGGgqy5)
I needed another hammer like I need a hole in my head, but the price was right.
I'm not sure what I'll use the tool roll for but the price was also right.
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Well hammers are good for doing just that.
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Well hammers are good for doing just that.
Putting holes in heads ?
Or hammering things?
I have about 20 Vaughan hammers & hatchets now, but they were saved from the grave and still manufacturing here in the USA so that number is definitely not done growing.
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Another HJE haul including yet another V&B hammer.
(https://i.postimg.cc/dQ53LpYT/20240926-101117.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5jFbrPjx)
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I just picked up this 1999 delta 8.5" compound miter saw for $70 at goodwill.
I don't know if the price was very good or not, but I didn't have one and it works.
(https://i.postimg.cc/280NmPyx/20240916-184632.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rKRPNZSd)
I think I have the 8" version of that that I got free (but needed a blade) like 20 years ago, it's a solid little unit, blades are expensive in that size or at least were back then when I was a broke college kid :), still use it when I need a chop saw...
I've gotten a lot of tools since I posted last, latest was a Bauer cordless ratchet, haven't used it on any projects yet but I'm sure it'll save me some time... been a busy few years, haven't shot much, too many projects and stuff breaking down...
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Free is good....
I inherited this 12" DeWalt chop saw with stand and tripod support when my BIL passed. Recently bought a new DeWalt blade for it at $30.
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Free is good....
I inherited this 12" DeWalt chop saw with stand and tripod support when my BIL passed. Recently bought a new DeWalt blade for it at $30.
I'll bet that's a good deal better than the little delta I bought at goodwill.
I expect that my delta is definitely better than a cheap HF special or on par with the best one they offer but I don't expect it to be anything special.
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I left the lights on in the car too long and got a flat battery . No big deal. Charger in the shed so off we go.
I haven't used the charger for donkey's years. Got out. It has a steel pressed steel body with crinkled Grey paint. Rust forming under the paint. The glue holding the manufacturers label has long since given up . I think it was made in Lower Hutt in the late fifties. I recall it is a 4 Amp charger. Plugged it in and off it went " did exactly what it was made to do no fancy dodas, just charged the battery.
Projector and Repco can,t make anything like that that would last all that time . Mind you the manufacturers make very sure they don't last long
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Nice to have something that old and working. I have a old one but hardly use it now that I carry this small handheld jumper which can also charge cell phones ect and has a flashlight. Used it to start my mower recently when the battery went kaput out by the road since I didn't have a new battery to replace it with at the time.
(https://imgs.search.brave.com/fU93ETgNmHy2U4yMtNJ7n7iqBl2JeBfYghOeoTMJDOc/rs:fit:860:0:0:0/g:ce/aHR0cHM6Ly9jZG4u/c2hvcGlmeS5jb20v/cy9maWxlcy8xLzA1/NjkvNDI0OS8zODMy/L2ZpbGVzL1lFU1BF/Ul9TUEVFRF8yMTYw/X011bHRpcHVycG9z/ZV9WZWhpY2xlX0p1/bXBfU3RhcnRlci5w/bmc_dj0xNzI0MzE4/MTk2)
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I have an old Schumacher from my grandfather that still works great.
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The local hardware had these V&B half hatchets on sale.
(https://i.postimg.cc/nhbhWzBP/20241013-155551.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/YhR7GtX6)
(https://i.postimg.cc/5tJjX0tC/20241014-105427.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zydqMqKz)
(https://i.postimg.cc/8P1Sf6dD/20241014-105435.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/23XJP3XX)
Btw a good well sharpened / honed card scraper is an amazing tool.
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I have a thing for 1/4dr ratchets and bit ratchets.
When it comes to regular 1/4dr ratchets I only buy / collect American made, but Taiwan pretty much has the market cornered on good quality very small 1/4 ratchets and bit ratchets so I don't mind buying them when something comes along that really gets things right.
I just received thi Titan 11335 set in the mail, they're brand new and there's little discussion of them online yet.
(https://i.postimg.cc/mgP80bj5/20241015-124536.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0zqYS1LY)
You get the 11334 micro series/4 ratchet, and the 11333 micro series bit ratchet.
(https://i.postimg.cc/yxWZkNDq/20241015-124706.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ctyHz07T)
You can get them individually and the bit ratchet will come with 2 stubby bits instead of just one, but for $20 I just bought the pair.
These things are definitely small, 4" long with a tiny 14mm head.
They make the PROTO 4749XL look huge, and they're the smallest headed ratchet made in the USA today aside from the Chapman and the WFMC bit ratchets.
(https://i.postimg.cc/ydLR1RYX/20241015-124846.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Q9WCSH7H)
These I would say are so far one of the best out there, they're very small, have a comfortable grip, moderate backdrag, and a built in thumb wheel on the back.
There is one company in Taiwan called HI-FIVE who makes bit ratchets with a built in thumb wheel, if you've seen the ICON WERA FACOM USAG BLACKHAWK MAC GM POWERTORQUE VIM and many many more you'll know their bit ratchets.
They make countless variants for everybody under the sun, including too many bicycle tool companies to keep track of.
They're great quality and definitely tiny ( the flex heads are bigger) but those are all bit ratchets that require the included low profile socket adapter.
The Titan 11334 is the 1st example this small that is a dedicated 1/4 ratchet.
I also have the Titan 11313 micro series roto head which is quite nice, it's the same handle size / shape but of course a roto head mechanism.
Small but not as small because the yoke that the cradles the head adds bulk.
(https://i.postimg.cc/vBhjtGGH/61-Hzc-GR4as-L-AC-SL1113-01287.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/S2XDyFXw)
(https://i.postimg.cc/RhGVnWsS/20241015-133222.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SY2pBxb3)
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The handle on that Vaughan cross peen tinners hammer that I recently bought felt just fine in hand but was just a little thick for it's size, it obsorbed shock less and added more weight where it doesn't need to be.
I just had to thin it out and naturally I octagonalized it.
There was a time when the thought of octagonalizing a handle kind of intimidating, but I eventually learned that it's actually easier than doing a consistent oval profile.
(https://i.postimg.cc/PqWs3JMv/20241017-135710.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/FfHB198h)
(https://i.postimg.cc/QC0j6ChJ/20241017-135729.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/V00yvYSJ)
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Another one of my favorite long standing American tool manufacturers is WILDE tool out of Hiawatha Kansas.
They make great pliers, great punches and great handle pry bars all 100% here in the USA.
I just received this order in the mail.
(https://i.postimg.cc/66G3Nqcs/20241209-153610.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4nsZ6Jjw)
With this pair of mini pry bars, I now have their entire size range all the way up to 36".
These actually have shanks made by Mayhew, but that's fine because I have multiple sets of those which I like and I'm happy that I can support 2 American tool manufacturers when buying them.
Same goes for when I buy the Channellock rebrands of the excellent little Mayhew hook & pick sets.
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An American made tool order from HJE just arrived in the mail.
3 of the items are gifts.
(https://i.postimg.cc/g2HLwGwt/20241217-154324.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MnXpN2m1)
The Thorsen Beam Style wrenches were great quality and quite attractive, these particular NOS wrenches were rebranded for the HWI CO-OP / chain now known as Do-it-best hardware stores.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Mp3x3LgK/20241217-154453.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gxhfngYf)
I'm a huge sucker for Lufkin tapes and rules, I have one of these somewhete that I bought used but the spring was worn out.
This one absolutely mint NOS with great return.
(https://i.postimg.cc/bvMyr5RF/20241217-154531.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SX6FtD3W)
Made in Saginaw Michigan before Cooper Tools bought them out and cheapened things up.
(https://i.postimg.cc/fytLWNXL/20241217-154543-3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SY4qVHgF)
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An American made tool order from HJE just arrived in the mail.
3 of the items are gifts.
(https://i.postimg.cc/g2HLwGwt/20241217-154324.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MnXpN2m1)
The Thorsen Beam Style wrenches were great quality and quite attractive, these particular NOS wrenches were rebranded for the HWI CO-OP / chain now known as Do-it-best hardware stores.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Mp3x3LgK/20241217-154453.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gxhfngYf)
I'm a huge sucker for Lufkin tapes and rules, I have one of these somewhete that I bought used but the spring was worn out.
This one absolutely mint NOS with great return.
(https://i.postimg.cc/bvMyr5RF/20241217-154531.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SX6FtD3W)
Made in Saginaw Michigan before Cooper Tools bought them out and cheapened things up.
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I don't think I posted a pic of my son's tool boxes yet. Years ago he came across 20 of these tall industrial drawer cabinets that were left behind when a company went under. The drawers are rated at 500lbs for each. He bought all 20 for $200 each and flipped the rest but kept these three. They have a safety feature that only allows one drawer to open at a time. He got some great tool boxes made a lot of money on the deal too. I could have bought some of them but didn't have a good place to put any so I passed on them.
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I don't think I posted a pic of my son's tool boxes yet. Years ago he came across 20 of these tall industrial drawer cabinets that were left behind when a company went under. The drawers are rated at 500lbs for each. He bought all 20 for $200 each and flipped the rest but kept these three. They have a safety feature that only allows one drawer to open at a time. He got some great tool boxes made a lot of money on the deal too. I could have bought some of them but didn't have a good place to put any so I passed on them.
WOW.. If that company valued things like that so low it's no wonder they went under.
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Bantam I hate when a punch breaks before the job is done and it's the only one of that size which will fit.
Nice Dan. Mine are industrial steel file cabinets somewhat similar to these below and I like that I can have more than 1 open at a time and place each cabinet adjuster according to needed space so tools don't slide around when cabinet opened/closed. No locks or wheels though.
(https://imgs.search.brave.com/8N2cOUShr_spS4sbFQ_PF6PUGscFUohqDGpYdcnCD2c/rs:fit:860:0:0:0/g:ce/aHR0cHM6Ly9pLmV0/c3lzdGF0aWMuY29t/LzMzMzM2NDEwL3Iv/aWwvMTcxOTIxLzQ0/MjYyMTg2MTMvaWxf/NjAweDYwMC40NDI2/MjE4NjEzXzdzOHUu/anBn)
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I don't think I posted a pic of my son's tool boxes yet. Years ago he came across 20 of these tall industrial drawer cabinets that were left behind when a company went under. The drawers are rated at 500lbs for each. He bought all 20 for $200 each and flipped the rest but kept these three. They have a safety feature that only allows one drawer to open at a time. He got some great tool boxes made a lot of money on the deal too. I could have bought some of them but didn't have a good place to put any so I passed on them.
WOW.. If that company valued things like that so low it's no wonder they went under.
It was fairly shocking that they didn't make arrangements to sell them or move them out of the leased space. The landlord was happy to sell them to my son on the cheap to get rid of them all at once. His job at the time here had him going Auto Body shop to Auto Body shop so he was able to sell them quickly and easily, while he was working.
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It absolutely pays to buy good quality punches.
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Your son did well Dan!
I would have snagged up several for my Crew here at work!
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Newest addition to my tool kit... been wanting one of these ever since we moved to the woods.
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I have a thing for 1/4dr ratchets and bit ratchets.
When it comes to regular 1/4dr ratchets I only buy / collect American made, but Taiwan pretty much has the market cornered on good quality very small 1/4 ratchets and bit ratchets so I don't mind buying them when something comes along that really gets things right.
I just received thi Titan 11335 set in the mail, they're brand new and there's little discussion of them online yet.
(https://i.postimg.cc/mgP80bj5/20241015-124536.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0zqYS1LY)
You get the 11334 micro series/4 ratchet, and the 11333 micro series bit ratchet.
(https://i.postimg.cc/yxWZkNDq/20241015-124706.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ctyHz07T)
You can get them individually and the bit ratchet will come with 2 stubby bits instead of just one, but for $20 I just bought the pair.
These things are definitely small, 4" long with a tiny 14mm head.
They make the PROTO 4749XL look huge, and they're the smallest headed ratchet made in the USA today aside from the Chapman and the WFMC bit ratchets.
(https://i.postimg.cc/ydLR1RYX/20241015-124846.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Q9WCSH7H)
These I would say are so far one of the best out there, they're very small, have a comfortable grip, moderate backdrag, and a built in thumb wheel on the back.
There is one company in Taiwan called HI-FIVE who makes bit ratchets with a built in thumb wheel, if you've seen the ICON WERA FACOM USAG BLACKHAWK MAC GM POWERTORQUE VIM and many many more you'll know their bit ratchets.
They make countless variants for everybody under the sun, including too many bicycle tool companies to keep track of.
They're great quality and definitely tiny ( the flex heads are bigger) but those are all bit ratchets that require the included low profile socket adapter.
The Titan 11334 is the 1st example this small that is a dedicated 1/4 ratchet.
I also have the Titan 11313 micro series roto head which is quite nice, it's the same handle size / shape but of course a roto head mechanism.
Small but not as small because the yoke that the cradles the head adds bulk.
(https://i.postimg.cc/vBhjtGGH/61-Hzc-GR4as-L-AC-SL1113-01287.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/S2XDyFXw)
(https://i.postimg.cc/RhGVnWsS/20241015-133222.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SY2pBxb3)
Handiest thin I ever recall seeing in a 4" tool was a friend’s 4" pipe wrench. It really was a working tool. He got it as a give-away, perhaps he said trade show (I no longer remember, it's been over 50 years).
It was perfect for breaking loose rounded or frozen brake bleeder screws.
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Are you sure it was a pipe wrench and not just a " bicycle wrench " ? Like the common Frank mossberg wrenches ?
If it was an actual pipe wrench is it possible it was actually 6".
Rigid makes a 6" pipe wrench which I have, but I've never seen a smaller pipe wrench than that.
Even going back to the old Stilson pattern that was the standard before Ridge introduced their RIGID design that took over I think 6" was the smallest anybody ever made.
Marx toys had their Pocket tools which were fully functional miniatures, but the only truly real tool from the collection was a tape measure.
The pipe wrench was a plated die cast .
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Menards has a 4 foot pipe wrench, I am tempted to get, it would be impressive throwing it across the shop ;) LOL
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Just got 4 vice grips delivered in the mail. I have use for them so will get to it today.
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Any of you have one of these? Just got a log wizard. It's a planer and debarker but it also works good at grinding down tree roots which is why I got it.
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I already have so many screwdrivers, and I have some screwdrivers on the way, but I couldn't help myself but pick these up today.
(https://i.postimg.cc/65GCRPsv/20250430-141348.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HVdJ1BkY)
I like the Klein handles for some situations, they're not my favorite handles but I would have zero complaints if they were all I owned.
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I already have so many screwdrivers, and I have some screwdrivers on the way, but I couldn't help myself but pick these up today.
(https://i.postimg.cc/65GCRPsv/20250430-141348.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HVdJ1BkY)
I like the Klein handles for some situations, they're not my favorite handles but I would have zero complaints if they were all I owned.
When I used to get tools for free, the only screwdrivers I used were Klein.
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Tools.
I have just beengiven a thank you gift card for 400 dollars redemable at Hammer Hardware.. i want to spend it on something substantial rather than paint and nails . I just don't need anything because I am happy with what I have got
I look at what all you grown ups are buying to add to your collections . I surmise that you have been doing it for years . Must be some very well stocked workshops..
Photos ??