Author Topic: Woodfield triggers for a Value Max or Striker (Read 11267 times))

SteveP-52 · « **Reply #20 on:** October 24, 2015, 07:09:13 PM »

The screw fix is done on both Edges. That post said to try for 10mm screws and the local Ace Hardware store had M3 x 10 screws, .50 pitch in stainless, plus they had them in allen head which should make backing the new screw out if I need to way easier than trying to get a philips head in there, you just need a long 2mm allen wrench. I'm still working on the stock screw mods so I haven't been able to try shooting them yet...I'll keep you posted...back to work and taking pics of the stock fixes...
Oh yeah...I took a look on Amazon, your Webley is up to 139.37 as of yesterday so you definitely stole a deal and when I zoomed on your stock, your front stock screws look just like my Edge...at an angle up into the bottom side of the barrel, you might want to pull one and see if you have a lock washer against the plastic. Probably could have done a simple fix and just stuck flat washers in then the lockers, but decided to test another idea..almost done and pics to follow if it works....lol

SteveP-52 · « **Reply #21 on:** October 24, 2015, 08:14:36 PM »

Ok, rifle back together, grabbed pellets and went out to test things. The M3x10 screw all the way in won't let you cock the rifle, I had to keep backing it out until I could safely cock it and have it lock open to load, so you might want to look for an M3x8 screw instead, Ace had that size also and since I can take just the trigger guard off if I want, changing from the 10 to the 8 will be pretty easy.
Hopefully I explain the next part decent enough: the initial pull on the trigger at least for mine was about half of what it was. When you hit that part of the pull that you know the rifle is about to fire and you're still pulling waiting for it is gone. Now when I pull back, the trigger just stops and I know it's going to fire and BAM, no dragging feeling at all. Again, I still want to tweak that screw more but it was getting too dark here in NY so I'll be out tomorrow testing and tweaking, but that longer screw definitely makes a difference.

Old Corps · « **Reply #22 on:** October 24, 2015, 11:12:14 PM »

Sounds Great! I'll be heading to the local/yocal hardware to see if I can pick up some M3X8 .50 pitch allen head screws. If they don't have 'em there I'll find them some place else. Definitely want allen heads. Really glad to hear of the improvement! Guess I'll snip that beautiful black tie wrap off.

Re. the front stock screws-Yeah, mine are the same as yours I bet. A flimsy star lock washer against the plastic, NOT good. Wouldn't take long for the attachment points there to let go. I replaced the screws with allen heads then put the lock washer on followed be a 5mm flat washer, followed by a 6mm flat washer up against the plastic. Blue locktite on the screws of course. I think when I take the stock off again I'm going to "paint" a bit of 2 part epoxy around the holes--inside and out to reinforce that area. Thanks for the update!

Ed

What length would you say the OEM adjustment screw is???

SteveP-52 · « **Reply #23 on:** October 25, 2015, 12:21:16 AM »

The black one is the stock screw, the 8mm is next to it and it was already all the way in when I took it out so the longer screw should work good and still have a little adjustment room if needed. sorry for the lousy pic but the only camera I have is the one in my tablet.

Old Corps · « **Reply #24 on:** October 25, 2015, 09:45:39 AM »

Quote from: scp52 on October 25, 2015, 12:21:16 AM

The black one is the stock screw, the 8mm is next to it and it was already all the way in when I took it out so the longer screw should work good and still have a little adjustment room if needed. sorry for the lousy pic but the only camera I have is the one in my tablet.

"the 8mm......was already all the way in" Are you saying the REPLACEMENT screw should be LONGER than 8mm? Like a 10mm to have some adjustment? The longer screw is __mm in length?? Both screws in your pic appear to be black. Sorry, but I is confused.

Ed

SteveP-52 · « **Reply #25 on:** October 25, 2015, 12:10:45 PM »

Sorry for my oops...that smaller screw in the picture is the one that came in the rifle and was screwed all the way in. The longer screw is the new 8mm allen head screw I got from the hardware store. I actually got a couple extra ones, they were only .33 cents and being so small was afraid I might drop one and not be able to find it.
I really have to get a better camera....lol

Old Corps · « **Reply #26 on:** October 25, 2015, 02:04:57 PM »

Thank you Sir! I got 2 M3X8 & 2 M3X10 allen heads, .50 pitch and a can of insulating foam for the stock. Like you, I always get one or two extra when I buy hardware. Of course then I never need another one or can't find one when I do. The 8mm should be the one then. You must have got the deluxe premium screws, mine were .24 & .27 @ piece.

Won't be able to mess with it 'til tomorrow.
Oh, I was just wondering how much difference having the Vortex piston compared to regular spring made since you have the Edge in both models. Recoil, twang, etc.?

Thanks!
Ed

SteveP-52 · « **Reply #27 on:** October 25, 2015, 04:18:26 PM »

Probably off on my prices, but I actually bought every screw I might need between trigger and stock fixes, plus different lengths of everything just in case so the bag had something like $16 in hardware considering I was buying for 2 rifles.
Bit more recoil and twang with the spring and they both hit hard, but with no chrony I don't know actual fps numbers. Both are also seriously accurate with the fiber optic sights. The Vortex has a Hawke Sport 3-9x40 HD AO scope on it, the springer once it's finished I got a Vokul Red/Green dot sight for off Amazon...looking forward to trying it out versus the fiber optics.
Hmmm...chrony...

Old Corps · « **Reply #28 on:** October 26, 2015, 10:59:26 PM »

I swapped out the adjustment screw today and am VERY happy with the end results. For ME, I see no need to pursue a different trigger. But I do have a FEW WORDS OF CAUTION---

I replaced the oem screw with a M3X8 allen head screw and initially screwed it all the way in (lightly) then turned it back I/2 turn. Put the stock back and before even firing I cocked it with no problem and proceeded to bang the butt end of the stock a dozen times or so--outside on my deck, safety on/safety off to see if it might fire. NO problem. I then loaded a pellet and was thrilled with the new light trigger pull. I fired about a dozen more times and checked a few more times hitting the end of the stock, checking for safety sake with no problems. THEN for whatever reason after loading a pellet and fortunately with the muzzle pointed skyward, SAFETY STILL ON, IT FIRED! HOLY #%!*!!! I honestly didn't know that that was possible with the safety still engaged but it happened. A very good thing that I never let the muzzle be pointed in any direction that would not be safe if it somehow fired!
I pulled the stock back off (I can't adjust the screw without doing so) and backed the screw out another 1/2 turn + a bit more. Put it back together and did the "butt bumping" thing again, a LOT, and then fired at least 50 rounds with NO problem. The trigger has a nice crisp break once you pull through the "1st stage" or more accurately the initial slack. Again, I couldn't be happier with the end result and I'm confident that the rifle is safe. Just wanted everyone to know to be very cautious if you do this or any trigger modification and KEEP YOUR MUZZLE POINTED IN A SAFE DIRECTION. Thanks Steve, for your input on what size screw to start with. Oh, to be clear the adjustment I ended up with was one full turn out + about another 1/8th turn from lightly screwing in all the way.

Ed

lefteyeshot · « **Reply #29 on:** October 26, 2015, 11:29:02 PM »

Good info. Gonna' get me some of those screws for my two Strikers and VMX and some for my bud with a couple of these guns. Thanks.

Old Corps · « **Reply #30 on:** October 26, 2015, 11:34:11 PM »

Quote from: lefteyeshot on October 26, 2015, 11:29:02 PM

Good info. Gonna' get me some of those screws for my two Strikers and VMX and some for my bud with a couple of these guns. Thanks.

Yer welcome, it made a big improvement on my Webley Spector (closet Hatsan Striker). Just be careful!

Ed

SteveP-52 · « **Reply #31 on:** October 27, 2015, 01:20:27 AM »

Now you have me searching the memory for posts I've read on triggers, agjustments and any number of other things and I know I've read about the stock thump thing, I just can't for the life of me remember if it was about this whole trigger mod or something else.
I originally had mine totally screwed in then changed my mind and backed it out at least a turn before I took the first few shots, then backed it out another 1/4 after about 5 shots and left it there.
After reading your post, I'm definitely going out and do the stock thump just to be safeand rifle pointed safely is always a given. If mine is pointed, it's at the ground, at a target or at whatever backyard pest is unfortunate enough to have wandered in my sights.
Many thanks for the info, Ed and glad the fix worked out so good on your Webley.

p.s. - I stopped hmmming about that Chrony...mine will be here by Nov 2nd at the latest....lol

Old Corps · « **Reply #32 on:** October 27, 2015, 09:55:41 AM »

Sounds like your adjustment ended up just about the same as mine. You probably read about "stock thumping" when reading about the GRTIII trigger. I don't have a scope mounted on the Webley so I could thump a way without worrying about damaging it.
I want to pick up a chrony one of these days too. Shoot safe!

Ed

grimeszee · « **Reply #33 on:** October 27, 2015, 10:17:47 AM »

Hey Tim I hope to have My striker done before the fun shoot on the 7th of next month, then we can compare notes so tho speak.

stonykill · « **Reply #34 on:** October 30, 2015, 09:35:45 PM »

I'm going to pick up some screws tomorrow hopefully and try this. I just never shoot my 1000s as the trigger is just so horrible. I'll try just the adjusting screw 1st, then decide if I take it further from there. My stock screw is bottomed out now and the 1st stage is SOOOOO long.

stonykill · « **Reply #35 on:** October 30, 2015, 09:46:57 PM »

I can also see how making a trigger shoe would greatly improve the feel of this trigger. At least for me.

lefteyeshot · « **Reply #36 on:** October 31, 2015, 12:41:28 AM »

"trigger shoe/trigger comfort". I bought an old Gamo Shadow 1000 at a pawn shop way back. It had a simple mod. that made the trigger fell a lot better. A piece of plastic tubing stuck over the end of the trigger. It's about 3/8" long. The trigger is cheap stamped out like the trigger in a 1000/VMX. That and the new longer screw might be the trick. Just food for thought.

SteveP-52 · « **Reply #37 on:** October 31, 2015, 02:27:07 AM »

I was actually thinking of trying a small piece of black heat shrink tubing like they use on electrical wiring on the trigger...maybe 2 depending on how the first piece feels shooting. Any thoughts??

stonykill · « **Reply #38 on:** October 31, 2015, 09:48:27 AM »

The shoe just came to me while shooting my 1000s .22 vortex last night. For me anyway, the curve of the trigger is too great. flatten it out some, perhaps a tad wider I think the feel would be better.

SteveP-52 · « **Reply #39 on:** October 31, 2015, 11:41:52 AM »

Now you have me thinking about the dremel...take the guard off and dremel off some of that curve without having to take the trigger apart.

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Woodfield triggers for a Value Max or Striker

Author Topic: Woodfield triggers for a Value Max or Striker (Read 11267 times))