Quote from: HWNut on August 28, 2015, 08:56:30 AMQuote from: grauhanen on August 21, 2015, 08:03:44 AMAs Motorhead notes, it is very unlikely that a HW97 has barrel droop.It isn't at all. You can align the cylinder and barrel with a measuring rod and you can see how far the barrel drops at the muzzle end. I already sent an HW95 back because the barrel was "backwards" drooping from the locking receiver. It depends on how accurate the worker alignes the barrel with the cylinder. Sometimes they are not correctly aligned and you get that drop.Here I took an image before it got sent back:And no, it wasn't from firing the gun cocked with open barrel. That's how it left the factory. I noticed it because I couldn't get a sight picture as I wasn't able to get my eyes low enough on the cheek piece.A BREAK barrel action and that of a SIDE or UNDER lever action are different animals !!What TOO FEW realize is that the SCOPE is the issue more times that not when a Fixed Barrel action will not zero +/- 25 yardsIn air guns where we need the apex of pellet flight to happen so close to muzzle you actually given choice need barrel to be bent upward at muzzle or Ocular end of scope to be higher than Objective end.* When a scopes erector assembly has limited Elevation capability it simply cannot correct the intersect so close in. Compound issue with barrel DROOP and your really out of luck with a scope angle corrective mount or a barrel angle adjustment required. It is of my professional opinion nearly every time i read posts of folks complaining there FIXED BARREL gun has droop because scope won't zero IT IS THE SCOPE that is the problem or in combination with too high of scope rings / Objective bell diameter exacerbating the issue. JMO ...Scott
Quote from: grauhanen on August 21, 2015, 08:03:44 AMAs Motorhead notes, it is very unlikely that a HW97 has barrel droop.It isn't at all. You can align the cylinder and barrel with a measuring rod and you can see how far the barrel drops at the muzzle end. I already sent an HW95 back because the barrel was "backwards" drooping from the locking receiver. It depends on how accurate the worker alignes the barrel with the cylinder. Sometimes they are not correctly aligned and you get that drop.Here I took an image before it got sent back:And no, it wasn't from firing the gun cocked with open barrel. That's how it left the factory. I noticed it because I couldn't get a sight picture as I wasn't able to get my eyes low enough on the cheek piece.
As Motorhead notes, it is very unlikely that a HW97 has barrel droop.
Hey roadfix ..... are you reading what Motorhead has been saying? I also suggest you look at the scope. I think that Legend scope retails for under $200.00? I can't believe you put that kind of glass on such a great rifle. Put some good glass on her, she deserves it.Probably get grief from all the Bushnell users out there .... oh well ....Pappy
To possibly eliminate the scope as one of the variables I will this morning take two other scopes I have, plus the Bushnell, center them, and mount them on my rifle using the old standard one piece mount, no shim, and shoot at the same 30 yard target.I will report back later..
To possibly eliminate the scope as one of the variables I will this morning take two other scopes I have, plus the Bushnell, center them, and mount them on my rifle using the old standard one piece mount, no shim, and shoot at the same 30 yard target.I will report back later...
ONLY WAY you will get POA /POI to be on target in the 25+/- range with a optically centered scope is with FULLY adjustable scope mounts.
Quote from: Motorhead on August 29, 2015, 03:08:05 PMONLY WAY you will get POA /POI to be on target in the 25+/- range with a optically centered scope is with FULLY adjustable scope mounts.Thank you Motorhead, and I understand that. But that was never my intention to zero an optically centered scope. As the thread title states, I was basically curious as to whether or not my new rifle had any barrel droop. At any rate, I am basically able to zero my scope either by shimming the scope mount or by use of my just acquired BKL droop mount. That gives me plenty of full turns left on the elevation turret. The turrets are not at any extreme.But I am still curious as to whether my rifle is exhibiting any barrel droop. That was the whole point of me centering the scope in the first place.Thanks!
Quote from: roadfix on August 29, 2015, 04:15:31 PMQuote from: Motorhead on August 29, 2015, 03:08:05 PMONLY WAY you will get POA /POI to be on target in the 25+/- range with a optically centered scope is with FULLY adjustable scope mounts.Thank you Motorhead, and I understand that. But that was never my intention to zero an optically centered scope. As the thread title states, I was basically curious as to whether or not my new rifle had any barrel droop. At any rate, I am basically able to zero my scope either by shimming the scope mount or by use of my just acquired BKL droop mount. That gives me plenty of full turns left on the elevation turret. The turrets are not at any extreme.But I am still curious as to whether my rifle is exhibiting any barrel droop. That was the whole point of me centering the scope in the first place.Thanks!ONLY way I know of that is definitive ... is done with action taken apart.Trick I use is placing / taping a piece of white paper over end of breech tube where safety would be.Then using a bore light or laser pointer from muzzle end illuminate bore squarely and see where the light hitting the paper lands.This will give you a near absolute BORE to RECEIVER alignment picture
Instead of spending many hours trying to find an excuse to keep a defective gun new in the box right from the factory, I'd return it 10 times out of 3!$700 (?) and you KNOW from checking it with THREE scopes that all the heavens were aligned just right to give you every manufacturing tolerance known to man working against each other (god forbid the alternative a German company installed a defective part, we all know that can only happen in China...), it's SIX, SIX, SIX, SIX inches off and going twang to boot and you plan on salvaging it by spending more on a special mount!This is no longer the world to which I was born You'll keep it and figure out how to make it work for you, the factory will keep sending out more just like it, the guy who gets the next snafoo'd rifle like yours will keep it thinking 6" off is the best these rifles can do because the dealer tells him how few returns he gets, and the factory not only keeps churning out more booboos, but is thoroughly convinced anyone who would return one is crazy.Yeah, I get it that you are smart and handy enough to figure it out, you can always bend the barrel later if you want, it's fun learning whats wrong, and the twang will go away when you put a kit in it, but what about the next poor uninitiated sap that gets one just like yours and has to try and get some wretched company like Umarex to help resolve issues they would rather insist don't exist? Yeah, I know, not a Umarex product, get a prescription for Prozac, get a life...I just cant help but feel "rage against the light", as quality and demanding to get what you paid for seem to be obsoleted values that seem destined to die with my generation My apologies to the group, I'm sure reading me is a waste of time
Wow dude! You the biggest balls ive seen, doing that to ta $700 dollar rifle. Good luck , i hope ut works for you
Good job on the jig, be carefull , I notice you have a large knot right at the pressure point.
Changing position of muzzle ALSO will change position of cocking handle upon lock up. Could make breech tighter or looser which could be good or bad
Quote from: Motorhead on September 03, 2015, 04:30:33 PMChanging position of muzzle ALSO will change position of cocking handle upon lock up. Could make breech tighter or looser which could be good or bad The physical change of position of the muzzle was so tiny that there were practically no change in the way (or feel) the under-lever released and locked up.