Beeman/ Webly-Scott questions

[JGP]

 I happened upon a Beeman rifle in a local gun store. It has Beeman Precision stamped on the side of the barrel and Webly and Scott, Birmingham England stamped on the top of the barrel. This is on the breech end. There is no model number I could find after examining twice. Stamping is on the barrel block.
 It seems to function ok but the cocking arm rattles and the barrel has some side to side play.
 Bluing is nice, stock has some finish wear and it has a 4x ao tasco scope and a very nice scope mount.
 Questions;
1 Are parts available and how would I order them without a model number?
2 Can the side play in the barrel be tightened (there are no screws from the side going into the barrel block)
3 Is $150 too much to pay
 Thanks in advance. I'm sure I'll have more questions if I buy it. Jerry

[Meann-Machine]

Webly and Scott, Birmingham England, has been toes up for a number years. I seriously doubt replacement parts are available.  If you are not comfortable with the rifle as it is, save your money for one in better condition.

[pneuby]

I would be ON THAT. Sounds like some sort of rebadged Vulcan pattern gun, like a bearcub or even a C1? Chambers in the UK has all manner of spare parts. The cocking arm rattle seems to be part of the gun you just have to love. I don't understand what you mean by the barrel having side-to-side play.

[JGP]

 The barrel block has sideways play at the pivot point where the barrel breaks down. If you lay the gun on its side, hold it down lightly at the forearm with one hand and lift up lightly on the end of the barrel you get about 3/8 inch of movement. There are no screws in the side to tighten this up like other springer's I've had. I'm leaning toward buying it but I want to avoid getting a $150 tomato stake.

[JGP]

 Just looked up pictures of a Vulcan, I think that's what it is.

[pneuby]

Here's the schematic:
 
https://www.gunspares.co.uk/products/24557/Vulcan-MK-3/

I wonder if it's a combo of all of the slop between parts? Could it be rectified with the use of some shims, and/or tighter pins?

If the gun was dropped and took a blow, I wonder if it could've been enough force to slightly open the jaws at the front of the reciever? Squeeze it back appropriately in a vise, combined with the use of some shims? I would think a blow that could do that, would also leave a marked bend in the barrel. Perhaps take a metal straight-edge into the shop with you and check the barrel on four points.

[Van]

 I have a Beeman Webley Vulcan and the barrel and cocking lever are very tight in the forks of the compression tube.  There is no movement to speak of in either one.  I think, as mentioned above, the fork of the tube has spread somehow.  Careful squeezing with a padded vice, after the barrel and lever are removed, sounds like the best idea to me.  It should take only a slight amount of closing, or it might be hard to open if taken too far. I also get my spare parts from Chambers.

[JGP]

 The forks look parallel but I didn't measure, just eyeballed. After looking at the schematic I think you guys are right it has to be the forks bent or the pin that attaches the barrel. Would the pin wear first or the barrel block? I'm thinking the pin should be the softer metal. Has anyone had one apart to check? If the pin is the softer piece this should be an easy fix.      thanks Jerry
 

[Van]

I only had the barrel off once since you don't have to remove it to change piston seal or spring.  I remember the pin is very hard most likely heat treated steel. I doubt it is worn or the barrel would move in up and down direction too.  You can try to measure between the breech block and the fork with an automotive feeler gauge set to see how much clearance is there, then make some shims from a shim material assortment.  I get my shim stock from Brownell's gun smith supply co.

[MDriskill]

The Vulcan is a wonderful rifle.  Tough as nails, powerful, consistent.  Low-stress spring, solid PTFE piston seal, the things are basically indesctuctible.  It has a heavy-ish single-stage trigger pull; but smooth with a good feel for the let-off when broken in.  And again, it ain't gonna tear up.

Webleys of that era were indeed built with a very simple breech, and no way to adjust tension.  I think you will find that barrel movement is not much problem when shooting, because of the massive detent latch, and very stout spring behind it.  The barrel is thus solidly welded to that massive pivot bar when the breech is closed, and nothing much moves at the actual shot.

If things get extreme, the standard fix back in the day, was to put the thing in a vise and CAREFULLY bend the jaws back into place, LOL!  Then yer good for another couple zillion rounds.