How about a solid valve body that I can put the TP in myself so I can stop drilling/tapping and JB-Welding 5 of the holes.The built in HDD on all my ATs work well so I'm not that interested in anything to debounce. A lighter weight hammer could be useful and stroke adjustment from the rear wouldn't be too hard to build in.A bottle on an AT could be very sweet. Please make something with a paintball adapter so I can regulate it inexpensively and run off a 22ci bottle. Wish someone made that style bottle adapter for an M-Rod.Definitely keep us posted ...
Could I get some links to mods and tunes to the .25 model Hatsan PCPs this will aid me in a new valve design. Any videos would be great also. I spent all weekend making simple mods and breaking down the AT44 .25cal to see its functions. There is a lot of room for improvement. Also if someone has a link to a heavier(stiffer) spring for the AT44 that would be great and save me time best used in R&D right now.
Norm in this vid the guy made a great valve, and good idea on debouncer. But he went way overboard on ports. He bored them out to 6mm he said. That should be the right size for 35 cal not 25 cal. He made valve seat smaller then shaved off valve rod that was just a pointless mod.His pellet probe was a good power mod.I'm not sold on drilling a bunch of holes in hammer just to use stronger spring.5-5.25 mm is plenty on ports for 25 cal. Leave valve seat alone in bt65 and increase hole size in at44.Do away with spring holder in at44, open bt65 valve spring holder up. Polish all moving parts, block all but one hole on valve ports. You can shave part of valve rod that goes thro valve seat.Do a oblong port on barrel and your set on hatsan mods.That's about it.When using a reg, stronger spring to shut valve close faster while reg is filling back up with air did make sense to me.