Repair Manual or Exploded parts diagram ...

[NotRocketSurgery]

Hey Folks ...

I own a QB57!  That sure is one thing that I thought I would never have seen.  I was at a garage sale over last weekend and I made the guy a one price offer on four different items and he took it.  The way I see it, I got the QB57 for free.  In any case, it doesn't work.  It is cocked, I am sure of that.  But, pulling the trigger does not release it. So, it doesn't fire.  I am sure that I can fix that, but, since this is the first time with a QB57, before I get too far down this road, I would like to have a road map.  So, if anyone knows where I can download either a repair manual or at least an exploded parts diagram, I sure would appreciate the help.

Previously I bought a QB78 that I have been looking at for over a month but never fired.  It is said to have a high level tune by one of the more prolific tuners.  So, I am thinking I would like to put it in an AR stock.  That will leave me with an extra stock.  So, any suggestions on where I can make it known that I would be interested in buying only the mechanical works, maybe from a QB78D, I would appreciate that also.

And, do I ever have my eye on that neat looking target pistol repeater that is coming down the pike.  Who knows?  I can even envision a "one pistol league" where everyone shoots 10 shoot strings (or 12 or whatever the magazine holds), all using the same pistol.  That would be great fun, I think. 

Two months ago I had barely considered Chinese shooters.  Now I are one.

John Washbush
Bloomington, Indiana

[Weldon]

Does this help?
http://chineseairgunportal.brutuz.com/manuals/instruction-manual-for-qb57.pdf

[Brutuz]

... and while you are at it have a look at http://chineseairgunportal.brutuz.com please, besides a deeplink it deserves  look-see

[Weldon]

... and while you are at it have a look at http://chineseairgunportal.brutuz.com please, besides a deeplink it deserves  look-see

Yes, it does. You have a wonderful wealth of information there. Thank you for collecting and hosting it.

[Brutuz]

Glad I can help 

[NotRocketSurgery]

Thanks Brutuz and Weldon ... I found the Instruction Booklet with the exploded diagram but it leaves lots of questions.  Is this the right place to be discussing actual repairs?  Or, is there a better place?

[Weldon]

Not sure if this is the correct place to discuss repairs but if it is not, I'm sure the Mods will move it to the correct place. 

[Sfttailrdr46]

  Yep this is the place there are plenty of Chinese fans in this gate and most will be happy to help you . Unfortunately I have no expertise with Chinese AG's other than general springer knowledge so with that being said look up some plans for an inexpensive spring compressor and build the spring compressor before attempting a tear down of any springer. It will make disassemble and re assembly much easier as a one man project . Good luck and be safe

[NotRocketSurgery]

OK ... Thanks guys, I'll give it a go. 

I have a QB57 that doesn't work. The cocking arm/handle would move through it's full path, but would not catch to cock the gun.  At the same time, the trigger blade itself would move full path and get no resistance either.  So, the gun would not cock.

I removed the compression tube and trigger parts from the stock.  It was very dirty and cruddy and I even saw a little rust.  So, I cleaned the rear trigger assembly as best I could with q-tips and then put a small drop of Pelgunoil on each surface where metal moved on metal.  That was just enough to let parts move around and allow the gun to cock but it won't fire.

I have the compression tube assembly in front of me now.  The end with the threads is on my left and the end with the cocking arm pivot is on the right.  The cocking arm is facing me and the front and rear parts of the trigger assembly are facing up.  The trigger blade/safety assembly is on the left and the trigger/sear assembly is on the right.  So, this is where we are.  It is not cocked.
 
First question:  I can release the trigger blade from the front assembly by knocking out its pivot pin.  The rear trigger/sear assembly looks like it is held in place with a nut that holds the foot of a "L" bracket mounted to the rear side.  Can I release the entire rear trigger/sear assembly simply by removing that nut that is holding the "L" bracket in place and then lift it off and away from the compression tube? 

Second:  I think the trouble rests with one of the internal parts of the rear trigger/sear assembly.  As it sits here now, the housing for the rear trigger assembly has a slot in it. The slot is only on one side of the housing.  Through that slot I can see the rearmost end of the trigger operating rod.   The triangular piece on the rear end of the rod has three holes punched in each side.  One hole is for a pivot pin for the piece itself, the second hole holds an attachment pin for the trigger rod, and the third hole is empty.  This empty hole lines up perfectly with the slot.  As the trigger blade moves front to back, this hole moves up and down and stays in perfect alignment with the slot.  There is no doubt that something is meant to be located in the hole and that something would then move up and down in the slot.  If I stick a small screwdriver through the slot, and then through the open hole at the end of the trigger rod, and pull the trigger, the gun fires.  If something like a pin were located in that empty hole, it would move down that slot when the trigger is pulled and it would push on and activate one of the sear pieces and ... boom.  After all of that, here is the question:  What is it, that I don't have, that is supposed to go in the hole in the triangularish piece at the end of the trigger rod (where I just put my screwdriver) and activate the rest of the trigger pieces so the gun fires.?

I hope that someone can read that and kind of follow what I mean.  Otherwise, I'll take pictures.

Summary.  It appears that my QB57 will not fire because a piece missing from the rear trigger actuating assembly.  If there were some kind of pin located in a vacant hole at the rear end of the trigger rod, and that pin would ride in a slot on the trigger assembly case, then, when the trigger is pulled, the pin would actuate the secondary sear which actuates the primary sear and releases the plunger and spring (gun fires.)  I'll attach three photos which I hope show what I am talking about.

So, what's next?  Can anyone verify that missing part?  Does anyone know where I can get one?

Thanks very much, guys.  This is almost as much fun as the Shoot-n-Show!

John

[NotRocketSurgery]

That is really too much to read, isn't it?  So, here are some photos that will tell the story ... 

Please notice,  these photos are actually upside down from the way the parts would be installed on the gun.  My mistake.  I just sat them down on the bench and never thought of that.

[Weldon]

Best I can tell from the parts diagram, the sear assembly should come off whem that big nut is removed. More than that, I'm not sure. Hopefully someone with more experience will be able to help.

[Weldon]

After looking more at the diagram, I think I would take a look at the trigger connecting rod (part 2300). Is it possible that this has been bent more than it is supposed to be as shown in the diagram? If I understand the drawing correctly, the end where you put the screwdriver is supposed to pivot up to press on part 2209, which in turn allows part 2100 to drop and release the spring.

It is also possible that the diagram is incorrect or that there was an update that changed the seer assembly that is not reflected in the diagram.

[NotRocketSurgery]

Hi Gents ... Thanks for the suggestions.  I wondered about the bend in the trigger rod also but I never got to looking at it.  I will do that before I am done.

I think I have a better understanding now of what is what.  Part of the problem is that when you draw a picture on a 2D piece of paper you can’t see the part in 3D.  And, the parts diagram that we have here has a problem with that issue.  We can only see one side of the part.  We never know if the unknown side of the part is the same as the side we see or if it is different.  And, we can’t tell if the part is folded over to form a “U” resulting in an ability to only see one of the two sides.

Look in the upper right at part number 2200.  That is the complete rear trigger assembly.  Notice that it has a cover on the side that you can see.  Well, there is a “cover” on the other side too because the part is formed like a "U" and the two sides are not the same.  Now look at the “x-ray” view of the inside of 2200 on the lower left where it shows the relationship of all the parts from 2201 right through 2211.  Those parts are all inside the two sides of 2200 but the drawing shows the side facing us as invisible. You can see the slot on that drawing, but the slot is in the other side, the side facing away from us.  So, nowhere on this page can we see the relationship of the back end of the trigger actuating rod and how it’s attachment piece faces upward and the secondary sear fits down inside of it. The back end of the trigger rod actually is “U” shaped and it sits under and up along each side of the secondary sear.  It needs something to fit across from side to side in order to push up on the secondary sear.  And, I think that is going to turn out to be p/n 1200 with the 0900 e-clips on each end.

So, I am satisfied with that for now.  Next I am going to try to remove the two trigger assemblies from compression tube and see what comes of that. 

Depending on the cost, I am thinking that I might just go ahead and order the entire rear trigger assembly (p/n 2200) and the big nut (p/n 2500) as this one is a little beat up.  Do any of you guys have a favorite source for these kinds of little parts?

Also, I am having so much fun with this, that I have decided I want to make a spring compressor.  So, if of you have a suggestion as to where I can find your favorite spring compressor plans, please let me know.

More to come …

John

"In MacGyver we trust ..."

[Weldon]

You might try Flying Dragon. I remember seeing some Industry Brand rifles there so they might have the parts you need or know who does.

http://flyingdragonairrifles.org/index.php?route=information/contact

[lefteyeshot]

There's a notch in the right side of the stock next to that rear trigger assembly. That is to facilitate a anti- bear trap safety that go's in that hole. It sticks out from the side of the reciever and the notch let it go up and down. Just before the cocking lever locks when you push it forward that piece moves down and the anti bear trap is deactivated. The bottom of the cocking lever pushes it down. Without that piece I can't see how you can fix it.

If you google QB57 air rifle parts top of the page will be a vendor we're not suppose to mention on this forum. Click on him then click technical maunals if you want a hard copy of the little manual. $4.99.
Click on parts then QB57 and he's got some parts but not many now. I bought a .177 57 from him a couple of years ago and an extra .22 barrel. They want stay tight so I Blue locke-tite the barrel and was able to buy all the parts to build another gun for the extra barrel. Cost to much but was fun. He use to have the whole receiver, both trigger assemblies and the connecting rod between the trigger assembled for about $20 but not now. Maybe you can make something to work, a short piece of a nail bent or something. If you Want a new 57 he's got'em. Good luck. Later, Tim.

[lefteyeshot]

Sorry, that guy doesn't have any 57's. Looks like magnumboot.com has some for $79.

[NotRocketSurgery]

Tim ... I followed your suggestion, and I have drawn out a sketch of the part.  By looking at the stock itself, I can see where this "toggle" might actually be actuated by the cocking arm.  So, I am on the right track, I think.

I will attach a photo.  Does this look like the item you were talking about?

John

[Brutuz]

Sorry haven't been able to read all, but the trigger block shows similarities w. the B19 block and when you want to re-install you have to lift the springloaded part that sticks out while sliding the block back in