Author Topic: Ninja SHP regulator ouput tester (Read 6761 times))

cclingma · « **on:** May 24, 2015, 09:20:10 PM »

I see a Ninja SHP 13ci tank in my near future, (QB project). I also thought I recentły read a post about how to build an inexpensive regulator output tester. I can't find that post back.

I do see a on/off valve with gauge on the auction sight that may work? It's $15 or so directly shipped from China, hmm.

BigTinBoat · « **Reply #1 on:** May 24, 2015, 10:57:28 PM »

Quote from: cclingma on May 24, 2015, 09:20:10 PM

I see a Ninja SHP 13ci tank in my near future, (QB project). I also thought I recentły read a post about how to build an inexpensive regulator output tester. I can't find that post back.

I do see a on/off valve with gauge on the auction sight that may work? It's $15 or so directly shipped from China, hmm.

I originally used one of those on/off's that I got for like $11 then I found a gauge like this (but with an 1/8" connector and on the back not bottom) for $9. Can't seem to find them on there right now.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Hydraulic-Liquid-Filled-Pressure-Gauge-0-3000-PSI-/251941186471?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3aa8dd6ba7

cclingma · « **Reply #2 on:** May 24, 2015, 11:40:03 PM »

Thanks. That is a much better looking gauge than what's included with the valve.

HappyHunter · « **Reply #3 on:** May 25, 2015, 12:03:19 AM »

Not very fancy I'll admit

, but, I made my pressure tester from an extra remote coil hose assembly I had laying around and a 0-3500psi glycerin filled gauge I picked up from Princess Auto, along with a 1/4" NPT - 1/8" NPT reducer adapter.

Like I said...not very fancy, but it works quite well!

rsterne · « **Reply #4 on:** May 25, 2015, 11:13:17 AM »

I would eliminate the coil hose to reduce the volume of air vented when testing.... The biggest problem with using the setup shown is that every time you want to change the regulator setpoint you have to dump the large tank.... I use a "tank" consisting of just a drilled and tapped hole in a steel block which has less than 1 CI of volume to hold the regulator.... it wastes a LOT less air....

Bob

plinker81366 · « **Reply #5 on:** May 25, 2015, 11:53:50 AM »

Bob do you have a pic of the tester? thanks

nervoustrigger · « **Reply #6 on:** May 25, 2015, 12:59:39 PM »

Here is a brief writeup on a small "tank" that I made a while back for this very purpose. Bob also posted a picture of the one he made.

http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=73635

SpiralGroove · « **Reply #7 on:** May 25, 2015, 03:33:37 PM »

Yeah cclingma,
Working on the very same thing as you. I bought a piece of 1.25" aluminum roundstock, which I will cut to about 6" in length and drill out and tap as mentioned. I purchased a (probably too nice) a gauge on Amazon for $20 and the Top, screw on valve on eBay for $5 (thanks Bob).
Now I just need to buy a 1/8" male (compression thread) to 1/4" female (pipe thread) adapter to fit the gauge and a bleed screw valve 1/8" (compression thread). I could tap one (Top screw valve purchased on eBay) hole to 1/4" pipe thread instead of using a brass connecting adapter, but I don't know if this could easily muck up the valve?

Anyway, total cost coming in about $35.

Should have this done soon, taking my time however, because my (3) QB's have been backordered for (2) months already w/AGD. Since I got them for $87.50 each, not wanting to have 2 separate shipments costing additional $$.

Thanks to Bob/Jason for leading me by the hand on this one .................. Kirk

Will have pics soon.

cclingma · « **Reply #8 on:** May 25, 2015, 06:42:50 PM »

Thanks so much for all the info. I'll be looking into a small homebrew tank.

How about that screw on valve for $5?

SpiralGroove · « **Reply #9 on:** May 27, 2015, 03:52:29 PM »

Hey Guys,
Working on my version of the Ninja SHP regulator output tester. While I've got the regulator off the bottle, I'm going to change some belleville washers to increase my setpoint from 1200 to 1300 psi. Just need to drill out and thread my 4" aluminum round stock to act the the very small capacity bottle. Also, not real happy with my bleeder valve as yet, not sure the delrin insert will seat properly, a matter of trial & error.

Thanks to Bob & Jason for the extensive help. I never would have considered a QB79 or the pressure tester w/o their modification ideas. I'm happy to be a "Copy Cat".
Here are some pics; the shut off valve / gauge seems a little funky:

Kirk

SpiralGroove · « **Reply #10 on:** May 27, 2015, 09:44:02 PM »

Hey Guys,
Got it finished, will test tomorrow

If I don't post again, you'll know what happened ...... boom

Kirk

nervoustrigger · « **Reply #11 on:** May 27, 2015, 11:50:43 PM »

That looks nice, Kirk. Good job!

Just thinking out loud...if and when I make another one of these, I'm going to do the bleeder screw differently. My current one has a #10-32 screw threaded into the CO2 adapter. I filed a flat where the head comes down and meets it, with a crescent to accept an O-ring placed under the head. When I tighten the screw, the head squishes the O-ring into the crescent "trench" and forms a seal. It works great but was fidgety to make with my limited tools.

Next time I think I'll fit a 1/8" NPT plug opposite the gauge, and make a blind tapped hole in it for a #10-32, then finish drilling through with a smaller diameter bit. Then I'll use the screw to sandwich a plastic seal (disc of Delrin) against the small thru-hole at the bottom of the tapped hole. That should be pretty easy. The only tool needed that is more sophisticated than a hand drill is a bottom tap, and it's easy enough to make one of those from a regular tapered tap if I need to.

BigTinBoat · « **Reply #12 on:** May 28, 2015, 12:32:17 AM »

Quote from: nervoustrigger on May 27, 2015, 11:50:43 PM

Just thinking out loud...if and when I make another one of these, I'm going to do the bleeder screw differently.

Why not just get an on/off with the de-gas built in

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CO2-FILL-ADAPTER-REMOTE-ON-OFF-DEGAS-WHEN-UNSCREW-AMERICAN-MADE-/271864512239?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f4c633eef

nervoustrigger · « **Reply #13 on:** May 28, 2015, 12:48:33 AM »

That picture looks functionally like the one I'm using. The large hand screw gets threaded down to press open the tank's output valve. When you get ready to back it out, the small volume inside the CO2 adapter is still pressurized until you unscrew it from the regulator far enough that the bleeder hole is exposed. At 1200 to 1500psi, that puts a lot of friction on the threads so I am not comfortable with how that would erode the threads through repeated use. Much better in my opinion to vent the pressure before unthreading that connection. I think of the bleeder hole depicted in the photo as more of a failsafe to keep Johnny Careless from taking the CO2 adapter to the forehead if he attempts to disconnect things that are still under pressure.

BigTinBoat · « **Reply #14 on:** May 28, 2015, 01:01:21 AM »

Quote from: nervoustrigger on May 28, 2015, 12:48:33 AM

That picture looks functionally like the one I'm using. The large hand screw gets threaded down to press open the tank's output valve. When you get ready to back it out, the small volume inside the CO2 adapter is still pressurized until you unscrew it from the regulator far enough that the bleeder hole is exposed. At 1200 to 1500psi, that puts a lot of friction on the threads so I am not comfortable with how that would erode the threads through repeated use. Much better in my opinion to vent the pressure before unthreading that connection. I think of the bleeder hole depicted in the photo as more of a failsafe to keep Johnny Careless from taking the CO2 adapter to the forehead if he attempts to disconnect things that are still under pressure.

Jason - that "hole" is a fail safe for when the valve is taken off the bottle, and has nothing to do with the de-gas function. The de-gas is actually in the knob that turns the flow on and off. Turning clockwise turns the air flow on. Turn counterclockwise to stop the flow, and then continue turning counterclockwise and the valve then de-gases. I have one very similar. It works as advertised. If you look at the one pic he has you will see the "pin" has a "necked down" area. When the knob is turned CCW enough that pin raises and allows the air to escape where the thinner portion is.

nervoustrigger · « **Reply #15 on:** May 28, 2015, 01:33:39 AM »

Oh, that's novel! I could not see how it worked based on the photos, and I seem to remember Bob saying he had never seen one that vented via backing off the hand screw. I like the ingenuity. Thanks for explaining.

SpiralGroove · « **Reply #16 on:** May 28, 2015, 02:03:14 AM »

Thanks Jason,
It's amazing what you have made with minimal tools

For me, The 7 x 12 Harbor Freight lathe has been a "Godsend" when working in the shop this past year.
Kirk

SpiralGroove · « **Reply #17 on:** May 28, 2015, 02:11:15 AM »

Hey BTB,
Mine looks very similar to your picture too (not color though)?
I'm using the same valve set-up Bob did, and he highly recommended the bleeder addition.
Gosh, I would have gladly paid another $3 for the built in bleeder .......... maybe next time. The brass fitting and screw were likely $3 + my time and frustration

Thanks

cclingma · « **Reply #18 on:** May 28, 2015, 08:42:09 AM »

This is great. You guys have shown folks like me exactly what to do. All I have to do is collect parts and get to work.

BigTinBoat · « **Reply #19 on:** May 28, 2015, 11:54:42 AM »

Quote from: nervoustrigger on May 28, 2015, 01:33:39 AM

Oh, that's novel! I could not see how it worked based on the photos, and I seem to remember Bob saying he had never seen one that vented via backing off the hand screw. I like the ingenuity. Thanks for explaining.

Mine has "Pure Energy" on the knob. Basically the needle gets inserted from the bottle side and you can see that the "shoulder" is there so that even with the knob completely off the needle can't come out of the body. In the 2nd pic you can see how the air pressure in the body will push the needle up high enough so that the "necked down" portion moves past the oring and allows the air to escape.

I use this valve for filling my disco from a 2K regulated paintball bottle.

For testing pressure I just use this ASA on/off with a liquid filled gauge in it.

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Ninja SHP regulator ouput tester

Author Topic: Ninja SHP regulator ouput tester (Read 6761 times))

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