Author Topic: Refinishing a new Benjamin 392 (Read 10589 times))

Rob112o · « **on:** April 27, 2015, 01:45:09 AM »

Ok i have a new Benjamin 392 bought new last year, dated march 2014. Got it through amazon and got lucky on an incredibly accurate shooter. Did the whole paint outta the barrel. Did a full disassembly to clean out and sand down any and all burrs. Did the 2 spring mod to the valve, what a huge difference that made in pumping effort and increase in fps. Replaced the roll pins with solid SS pins.
Now im currently refinish the 312's stock and when i look at the 392, its night and day. The thing has that ugly brown stain. Which hides all the grain, like a fat kid with candy. Now its in perfect condition not a scratch on it. I just got the fever to do wood work now that im working on the 312. I cant imagine it'll come out as good as the walnut stock. Also kinda want to do it cause there is really no search results on refinishing the newer 39x's.

Rob112o · « **Reply #1 on:** April 27, 2015, 01:50:12 AM »

Took the stock pad off. Can see at the edges the stain didnt get in the wood to deep. I dont understand why they didnt stain underneath the pad??? You can see it bleed threw under the pad when it was done.

bbv13 · « **Reply #2 on:** April 27, 2015, 12:25:39 PM »

The 312 has a walnut stock. I don't know what type of hard wood they are using now but it's not walnut so it will be hard to achieve the same look even with the same stain and finish. I'm sure you can improve the look of the gun if you refinish it. Crosman cuts some corners to save money and staining it with the butt plate on it saves some time.

Bryan

Rob112o · « **Reply #3 on:** April 27, 2015, 02:46:21 PM »

Ok took some different grit sanding paper to her for a couple hours last night. Now will i need to get a stripper and get all the stain out or can i just sand it a good bit more and Tung oil it up?

MIKELMIS · « **Reply #4 on:** April 27, 2015, 04:20:07 PM »

glad to see you like playing with your wood .......

UCChris · « **Reply #5 on:** April 27, 2015, 04:31:29 PM »

Lol Mike...

I would oil it up as is. Should bring the colors and grain pop out.

Van · « **Reply #6 on:** April 27, 2015, 09:54:44 PM »

This is my 392, sanded off the old finish, reshaped the wood some, stained with brown leather dye, then used True Oil to finish. Cell phone picture does not show up real well.

Rob112o · « **Reply #7 on:** April 28, 2015, 02:31:36 AM »

Playing with wood is a good time killer. I did one session oh sanding. Ran a damp rag across her. Let it sit for a day. Sanded again and ran a damp rag across it. Now im down here about to start sanding again to be ready for stain, oil, or whatever.
Your rifle came out nice Van! Did u use a chemical stripper at all or just go to town with a bunch oh paper?

cwlongshot · « **Reply #8 on:** April 28, 2015, 07:45:24 AM »

If your desiring a really fine finish. Spend extra time BEFORE touching any finish!!

Keep whiskering and sanding with finer and finer grits. Then go to steel wool and again finer and finer grades. Seems futile at times, but you will be rewarded with very smooth wood with small and few pores. After a few coats of sealer you will have a glass smooth coating.

Once you start with the top coats, add a few then steel wool those back down to wood and start again. Yes, its a slow process but again you will be rewarded with a very fine finish.

CW

Van · « **Reply #9 on:** April 28, 2015, 11:16:29 AM »

My 392 came with a very thin factory finish so I only used medium grit paper, then finer and finer grits finished with 0000 steel wool. I use a strong magnet over the wood, when using steel wool, to remove any steel from the pores of the wood. I add a coat of true oil now and then followed by steel wool between coats.

Rob112o · « **Reply #10 on:** April 28, 2015, 11:06:36 PM »

I think they are both ready for the next step. Sanded with 80, 120, 150, 220, to 3M finishing pad. Than ran a damp rag and let it sit till dry. Did this process 2 times. On the 3 sanding didnt run a damp rag across. Just cleaned it of all sanding.

Rob112o · « **Reply #11 on:** April 28, 2015, 11:48:52 PM »

Owwwww not to shabby for the first coat on the stock. Forearm still bare.

Broadus · « **Reply #12 on:** April 29, 2015, 12:13:31 AM »

I think it's going to look great, Rob.

Rob112o · « **Reply #13 on:** April 29, 2015, 12:32:42 AM »

That looks great Brian. Smooooooth as glass. Im gonna keep my fingers crossed and hope mine comes out half as nice as that.

Rob112o · « **Reply #14 on:** April 29, 2015, 02:03:21 PM »

Ok 1 coat on both. You can see the forearm is much lighter.

Rob112o · « **Reply #15 on:** April 29, 2015, 02:07:46 PM »

2nd coat made sure i rubbed it in thick on the forearm to get it to match better with the stock. Now i used shoe polish by Kiwi. I had a couple tins of Erdal a German shoe polish couldn't read a word on the label or get any info about it in English. Im sure it was of better quality stuff than the Kiwi, but if i cant read whats in it. I'd rather not try it.

cwlongshot · « **Reply #16 on:** April 29, 2015, 02:30:28 PM »

Good choice... at two coats your just getting started!! now or after the next coat you should take it back down to the wood and start over. This fills the pores of the wood from the deepest first.

Once you use a polish or wax, your done with the finish coats. They will no longer "take" afterwards.

CW

N6CRV · « **Reply #17 on:** April 29, 2015, 03:46:35 PM »

Here is my 397 that I did. I sanded off all that strange color that they use. The stain I used was Dark Walnut. It shows the grain real good but it does NOT look like Walnut. I used Formbys Tung Oil High Gloss for the top coat.

cwlongshot · « **Reply #18 on:** April 29, 2015, 04:47:18 PM »

Here is my fore stock after the run down of sand paper grits stopping at 220. Then starting with the steel wool 0 and ending with 0000. It leaves the wood with the feel of polished granite, its that smooth.

here is some close ups to see the grain and wood pores.

Here is the butt. I did a little re shaping here.

Here is both, notice the mis match quite common on these rifles.

I stained the fore stock to closer match the butt.

Here is after 1 then 2 then 3 then 4 then 5 coats...

Steel wooled down to wood and Third coat applied.

here is after 5 coat.

Here is steel wooled again and the sixth coat

Lastly here we are after the sixth coat.