HW77K Stock Makeover

[UCChris]

In regards to staining a beech stock:

I've found that a pre-stain (oil based for oil based stains and water based for water based stains) is paramount to getting a good stain. Otherwise it will look blotchy and uneven.

[TooJung2Die]

In regards to staining a beech stock:

I've found that a pre-stain (oil based for oil based stains and water based for water based stains) is paramount to getting a good stain. Otherwise it will look blotchy and uneven.

Agreed. I ruined the first beech stock I attempted to finish. I made two mistakes. I didn't use a pre-stain wood conditioner and I used a very dark stain. I wished I took pictures of it as a warning to others. Since then I use pre-stain wood conditioner on beech and am very happy with the results, even on really cheap B3 wood. The stock I ruined? I finally gave it a few coats of bed liner. It is an improvement. Here is a photo of what a beech stock stained dark can look like. Not mine but it looks a lot like mine did.

Jon

[ptpalpha]

I really like the looks of that stock, Jon.  Outstanding.

[TooJung2Die]

I really like the looks of that stock, Jon.  Outstanding.

Uhm, is that sarcasm?    I hope so because that's what I consider a horribly blotched up stain job. If you're sincere... Well then it proves one man's trash is another man's treasure.    If you like that look it's very easy to achieve. Use a dark penetrating oil based stain on untreated bare beech wood.

[Tomcat]

Hi Brett,

I already mentioned this staining method to you in a PM, but others may be interested as well.  I built a Lyman Great Plains Rifle kit a few years back, and the stock was some sort of light colored mystery wood.  I wanted a darker finish, so I resorted to a method used by some of the old time gunsmiths for staining maple stocks.  As you all know, maple is difficult to stain.

The chemical/stain used is called Aquafortis, which I believe is Nitric acid.  Here is an explanation of the use of Aquafortis:

http://www.trackofthewolf.com/pdfs/aquafortis/instructions.pdf

As I mentioned, I used this on the Lyman kit.  Here are a couple photos of the rifle.





I do not believe the stain looks quite as orange in real life as it does in the photos.  The pics were taken in afternoon sun which probably adds some to the warm coloring.

Aquafortis is available on-line at some of the gunsmithing sites.  I believe I bought mine from Mountain State muzzleloaders, but I am sure it is available many other places.  The browning solution used on the metal was also from Mountain State in Vienna WV.

[bReTt]

I started by tracing the corners of the completed grip panel to get the same dimensions to transfer to the other side of the grip.



I turned the paper over and marked the corners with a dot and then cut away most of the paper to make it easier to layout on contour of the wood.



I marked the points once I got the paper in a position that looked right and then used the point marking guage to draw in the angle for the guide lines and points.





After that, I sketched in the curved lines from the top to the bottom of the pattern and worked them until I had the proportions that looked good to me and matched the other side.



I then extended the point lines to make the first guide lines to follow to start filling in the pattern.  I used the single line tool to carve a shallow guideline in both of the intersecting lines. 



After that was laying out lines following the guidelines.  This is where I am at in the process now.  I am taking my time this go around!



More to come and thanks for looking!

[Tomcat]

Looking good, Brett!  Now I know where to send any checkering jobs I need done .

[bReTt]

Hey guys!

Here is a progress report for the HW77K stock makeover...

I finally completed the checkering for the grip panels.  The second side turned out much nicer than the first but overall I am pleased.

I wrestled with many options for staining and finishing the stock but settled on what I had came up with originally which was to use a pre-conditioner and gel stain.  I am going to use a simple spray on lacquer (can) in satin or semi-gloss.  Not sure on the sheen yet.

Here are both grip panels checkered.





The stock with the stain pre-conditioner on.



This has some walnut colored get stain and cherry Danish oil.  I am thinking about one more layer of gel stain after this one is dry to help even the color out a bit more and then the lacquer top coat. 



Checkering with the stain applied.



Thanks for looking and as always, comments welcome, good, bad or ugly!   

[Tomcat]

Hi Brett. The stock looks really great!  You did an excellent job with the checkering and the staining.  I have never had stain look that even on beech.

[bReTt]

Thanks Tom!  The stain doesn't look that bad.... for stain.  It did come out fairly even.  I will add one more layer and then topcoat.  I can't wait to get the rifle back together so I can shoot it! 

[ptpalpha]

I really like the looks of that stock, Jon.  Outstanding.

Uhm, is that sarcasm?    I hope so because that's what I consider a horribly blotched up stain job. If you're sincere... Well then it proves one man's trash is another man's treasure.    If you like that look it's very easy to achieve. Use a dark penetrating oil based stain on untreated bare beech wood.

Not sarcasm...I actually like it.  I'm not a fan of beech in the first place, but if you're going to have beech at least make it interesting. 
I've been told I'm not known for my good taste.