I like it. Nice job bro. What did you use to strip the finish and do the checkering. Ive got a cz 200 hunter. Great gun but the stock is just plain butt ugly. I was thinking about experimenting with this stock. If i ruin it , its not that pricey to replace. Thanks kurt. Oh yeah, youre one heck of a shot too man.
Bret,I think it looks fantastic! I bet you'll do it again some day. Just about the time you have forgotten how tedious the work was, you will look at how nice your stock looks and think, that wasn't so bad. Not many people checker their on stocks, that is taking it to another level. I've been a cabinet maker/wood refinisher for almost 30 years and haven't tried checkering...Yet...Nice work.
Nice job Brett. I've been contemplating stippling because checkering seemed too daunting. Your work has me considering it now. Thanks for posting. BTW, your home-school table looks alot like ours. Scotty
Can't wait to see the finished result! I'm a fan of light colored stains. I love, love blonde stocks! That being said, I can't wait to see yours!
Nice job on the checkering Brett!!! That stock is looking great
Brett,I depends on what color you want to do, wood tone or the black/grey look. I am not big a fan of gel stains and therefore don't use them. They can be usefull for glazing or staining fiberglass or fax wood doors and such but not my favorite for real wood. The products I use are commercial type products and are not available in your area (I called the distributor) I did some research and found a sherwin Williams commercial store in Seattle. No idea how close that would be to you but they do have some usefull materials. I talked to one of the SW guys there and they do not have a good water based stain but they do have water based dye that could be usefull for an under tone. I just realized that this post could go very long so I'll answer the questions you asked above and we can PM for further detail. I do not use wood conditioners as I believe they can stop some stain penetration. That's how they help things not go blotchy. Instead I am very carefull with how I sand and which products I choose. When you think your sanding is complete, sand one more time with 150 or 180. (By the way, the grit you use will also alter the color penetration especially with oil based products) Preferably not a brand new piece as it will be too sharp. Go end to end with the same piece of paper. You may want to wear gloves as hand oil or sweat will make blotchy marks. I would not use Min wax penetrating stain. It's the kiss of death when it comes to blotchy color. Dyes are great for an under tone. Some wood lacks warmth, or depth. this is where dyeing the wood first can add life or punch. Generally you would allow the dye to dry then stain over it, but there are times , like Maybe the black tone idea, where you could finish right over the dye if it gave the color you wanted. This is going longer than I had hoped. Sorry if I've put anyone to sleep. As for clear coat, I, generally, do not use hand applied finishes. I spray all my clear coats. I use catalyzed lacquer, conversion varnish, or two part urethane. The SW commercial store has a full assortment of clear coating but you would have to spray them. One in particular they told me about was a line of finishes by Sayerlak. They have some waterborne products that sound interesting. One you can, but don't have to, catalyze. As far as oil based, hand applied finishes, there are many. Waterlox is an interesting product. I've used it with good success. I'm not a fan of hardware store polyurethane, so I don't have one to recommend. I have used two part , water borne floor finishes with great success. Street shoe is a great product but not made for vertical surfaces so coats need to be thin and tight. Seeing the stock you made and the checkering you just completed, I would say spraying clear coat would be in your wheel house. A 50$ gravity feed gun from lowes and a compressor and your in. Feel free to PM me for further info. I probably confused you even more.
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