OK, one more time: Rekord Adjustment

[ptpalpha]

Is there a simple "rule of thumb" explaining the relationship between the two adjustment screws?  Pretend you're trying to explain it to a 5 year old. 
Mine is the early 90's "block" version that doesn't easily show the inner workings, and I'm struggling with it.  When I get it to the point that I like the take-up and let-off, the large silver screw is about 1/2 a thread away from falling out.
And I can save you some time: I've already searched and read almost every thread and post about how to do it, so unless something new get posted last night, I've probably seen it.  What I'm hoping for is that some kind soul will put it into terms that this moron can understand.
Thanks,
Paul

[Jason_Garvin]

Tho I have never tinked on one of those block styles, you might try a lighter spring to allow to seat the screw with more threads.  I have done this on the newer rekords.  I like mine heavy enough that they will reset the first stage if I don't pull thru the second.  I started using 30 sec nail polish just a small drop to keep it from vibrating back out.  Hope this helps.

Jason Garvin

[Motorhead]

BIG silver screw behind trigger blade ONLY adjusts spring tension / pull weight.
To get sear to have less creep and get a crisper break you have to adjust the sear engagement screw that sticks out the front side of the trigger block. ( *52B )

[nced]

Is there a simple "rule of thumb" explaining the relationship between the two adjustment screws?  Pretend you're trying to explain it to a 5 year old. 
Mine is the early 90's "block" version that doesn't easily show the inner workings, and I'm struggling with it.  When I get it to the point that I like the take-up and let-off, the large silver screw is about 1/2 a thread away from falling out.
And I can save you some time: I've already searched and read almost every thread and post about how to do it, so unless something new get posted last night, I've probably seen it.  What I'm hoping for is that some kind soul will put it into terms that this moron can understand.
Thanks,
Paul

Perhaps this will help.......
Uploaded at Snapagogo.com
Uploaded at Snapagogo.com

[pme166]

Thank you for the pictures.  That helps another Rekord trigger adjuster like me a bunch.

My new R1 has a fair amount of take up prior to the break and I have yet to adjust anything.  From the comments above, I need to focus on 52b screw and carefully adjust it since I am reasonably comfortable with the actual pull weight from the factory.  Any advice?

[Motorhead]

Thank you for the pictures.  That helps another Rekord trigger adjuster like me a bunch.

My new R1 has a fair amount of take up prior to the break and I have yet to adjust anything.  From the comments above, I need to focus on 52b screw and carefully adjust it since I am reasonably comfortable with the actual pull weight from the factory.  Any advice?

Pull WEIGHT is 51b
Sear creep and crispness of break is 52b
Travel of 1st stage IS NOT adjustable unless bending the tab forward of trigger.

[Calmark]

Taking a Rekord fully apart last fall, I finally learned what each part inside does.  It took me a several tries to get it back together and I must admit I had to cheat by removing another complete Rekord unit from another rifle for reference...    But, that made me really learn the trigger and understand exactly what each part inside did.    Here's how I remember what to adjust on my Rekord triggers:

1. The rear silver screw you see sticking out going, counter clockwise lightens BOTH 1st and 2nd stage tension and makes them lighter feeling.

2. The front screw that's hidden by the trigger guard when turned clockwise, ONLY lessens sear contact and lessens 2nd stage creep.  Too much and the trigger becomes a "hair trigger".

Its a balancing act to get a for my taste, "springy" 1st stage and light second stage.  Just using the rear adjustment screw lightens both too much for my liking, as first stage becomes too light while making 2nd stage also lighter.  I now lighten 2nd stage with the front screw CW, then go back and tighten the rear screw to make first stage stiffer (and make 2nd a tad heavier and safer too).  If 2nd stage is then too heavy, I lighten the front screw more until I strike a good balance.

That said, I now set 90% of the adjustment of my Rekord triggers while the unit is out of the gun.  I fiddle with the two screws until the two main sears you see in the little circular "window" have just a bit more than a hair of overlap and the first stage has enough tension to spring back to the forward potion after being pulled.  I air test the feel by arming the trigger and making small adjustments to get things to my liking.  Once back in the gun, I recheck my adjustments to be sure they are safe and have a smooth operation and make tweaks to each screw as needed.  This whole process seems easier after I've done a trigger tune by polishing surfaces, cleaning out old grease and relubing since there's less friction to have to adjust out.

So Paul, I suggest you screw in your rear screw about 1/2 way or so.  Then lighten the now heavy trigger release of the 2nd stage with the front screw.  It will probably take at least a full turn or so to get things to lighten up again.  Then adjust both from there like outlined above until you strike a nice balance and have your rear screw not fall out! 

Mark

[ptpalpha]

Thank you for all the replies.  Based on what's been written here, and on my own experimentation, this is what I came up with:
1. Removed trigger guard and bolted action to stock using a small steel plate I made to take the place of the trigger guard.  This gives me access to the front screw while the rifle is in the stock.
2. Cocked and loaded, pointed safely downrange, I lightened the rear screw (big silver one) counter-clockwise almost until it fell out.
3. I then turned the sear screw (front tiny screw) clockwise until the rifle fired.
4. I then turned the sear screw counter-clockwise about 1/3 of a revolution, and the big silver screw clockwise 1 full revolution.
5. Cocked and loaded, took a few shots, slightly lightening the big silver screw (about 1/3 turn counter-clockwise).
All this was done after carefully stoning the contact points inside the trigger.  Now I've got it where I want it...still not light enough for my taste but as light as I'm willing to take it. (I like a really light pull weight for bench shooting).
As usual, frustrating at first, fun when you've got it figured out, and happy when the final product seems successful.
Springers!!!!

[Calmark]

It looks like you got the method to use each screw to get the right balance.    You might be able to play with it a little more to get it a bit lighter.  Otherwise, lube pivot points and smooth anything else you can think of to reduce a little friction so you can set the sear a tad lighter while keeping it at a safe enough weight.  I have had the outer part 52 in the diagram drag a little on the trigger housing.  A little flexing and such and I freed it up and improved things. 

[ptpalpha]

Thanks, Mark...I'll try it.
I was surprised to see the machining marks left on the contact surfaces of parts 52a and 50i.  Smoothing those two really made a big difference.  I also replaced the spring under the tension screw with a slightly softer spring I had left over from a Timney kit.  That also made a big difference.

[tjk]

Here's my rule of thumb adjusting the reckord trigger group. Make SMALL adjustments and take your time. No need for me to offer what's already been said in this thread. Good luck