Author Topic: Hammer lube in Marauder? (Read 10140 times))

wormbobskey · « **on:** March 17, 2015, 09:30:21 PM »

What kind of lube can be used to lubricate the hammer in a marauder? Also how much tension should be on the valve stem that the hammer contacts?

npunk42 · « **Reply #1 on:** March 17, 2015, 11:25:49 PM »

when I removed the stock hammer to install a WAR NBH I noticed a dry graphite like residue. To make a short story shorter, I lubed with dry graphite.

wormbobskey · « **Reply #2 on:** March 18, 2015, 12:09:28 AM »

I used some moly that I got from Tim. What about the valve stem? Should it move freely or with a little resistance? I tried to move mine with my finger and it wouldn't move at all.

Monkeydad1969 · « **Reply #3 on:** March 18, 2015, 01:42:16 AM »

Quote from: wormbobskey on March 18, 2015, 12:09:28 AM

I used some moly that I got from Tim. What about the valve stem? Should it move freely or with a little resistance? I tried to move mine with my finger and it wouldn't move at all.

That sounds about right.

oldpro · « **Reply #4 on:** March 18, 2015, 03:15:55 AM »

No movement it should be taunt against valve stem. I use Teflon dry lube on a very cleaned bore then a wet lube on hammer when I install.

ShakySarge · « **Reply #5 on:** March 18, 2015, 09:35:07 AM »

I like to use DuPont KRYTOX on a well cleaned hammer and tube. And I agree with Travis about the valve pin, no movement!

Matt

wormbobskey · « **Reply #6 on:** March 18, 2015, 09:16:58 PM »

Shot the rifle over the chrono again today and the bolt is still very hard to cock. Tim said to check the inside of the tube where the hammer rides back and forth, that it may be scarred so I'm going to break it down again tonight and make sure its not all scarred up. I don't recollect seeing any scratches in the tube so assuming its not scarred up what can I do to make the bolt cycle smoother? Lighter hammer spring? Appreciate any help.

clgraham82 · « **Reply #7 on:** March 18, 2015, 09:24:52 PM »

Quote from: wormbobskey on March 18, 2015, 09:16:58 PM

Shot the rifle over the chrono again today and the bolt is still very hard to cock. Tim said to check the inside of the tube where the hammer rides back and forth, that it may be scarred so I'm going to break it down again tonight and make sure its not all scarred up. I don't recollect seeing any scratches in the tube so assuming its not scarred up what can I do to make the bolt cycle smoother? Lighter hammer spring? Appreciate any help.

Make sure you don't have the detent on top of the bolt too tight, that will cause it to be hard to cock.

wormbobskey · « **Reply #8 on:** March 18, 2015, 09:49:46 PM »

I don't think its the detent on the bolt. Looked in the tube and where the slot is that the sear comes up through there is a shallow groove straight in line with the sear cut out. Looks like maybe a burr got under the hammer from the trigger group and wore out the shallow scar under the hammer. The hammer's finish is worn where it has run across this scar.

Bill G · « **Reply #9 on:** March 19, 2015, 10:19:05 AM »

Quote from: clgraham82 on March 18, 2015, 09:24:52 PM

Quote from: wormbobskey on March 18, 2015, 09:16:58 PM
Shot the rifle over the chrono again today and the bolt is still very hard to cock. Tim said to check the inside of the tube where the hammer rides back and forth, that it may be scarred so I'm going to break it down again tonight and make sure its not all scarred up. I don't recollect seeing any scratches in the tube so assuming its not scarred up what can I do to make the bolt cycle smoother? Lighter hammer spring? Appreciate any help.

Make sure you don't have the detent on top of the bolt too tight, that will cause it to be hard to cock.

+1. Also, I use McLube 108. Its a dry molybdenum disulfide spray. I find it more effective on a hammer that is unpolished. I Spray it all over with 2 coats then rollit between a couple of pcs of derin sheet under moderate force. Spray again before install. Lube vs no lube showed and increase in fps. Small but increase and I had to take a touch off of the spring tension to get efficiency back.

Rivers3Plinker · « **Reply #10 on:** March 19, 2015, 10:42:30 AM »

Quote from: Bill G on March 19, 2015, 10:19:05 AM

Quote from: clgraham82 on March 18, 2015, 09:24:52 PM
Quote from: wormbobskey on March 18, 2015, 09:16:58 PM
Shot the rifle over the chrono again today and the bolt is still very hard to cock. Tim said to check the inside of the tube where the hammer rides back and forth, that it may be scarred so I'm going to break it down again tonight and make sure its not all scarred up. I don't recollect seeing any scratches in the tube so assuming its not scarred up what can I do to make the bolt cycle smoother? Lighter hammer spring? Appreciate any help.

Make sure you don't have the detent on top of the bolt too tight, that will cause it to be hard to cock.

+1. Also, I use McLube 108. Its a dry molybdenum disulfide spray. I find it more effective on a hammer that is unpolished. I Spray it all over with 2 coats then rollit between a couple of pcs of derin sheet under moderate force. Spray again before install. Lube vs no lube showed and increase in fps. Small but increase and I had to take a touch off of the spring tension to get efficiency back.

Where do you find this product for sale? Google isn't bringing up and online retailers for me and McLube site appears wholesale to dealers only.

wormbobskey · « **Reply #11 on:** March 19, 2015, 11:37:12 AM »

Went to sporting goods store that sells guns and such and saw that Hoppe's had a dry lube spray. Would something like that work? If not, where can I pick up some McLube 108?

wormbobskey · « **Reply #12 on:** March 20, 2015, 06:14:46 PM »

Can any type of grease be used on the hammer? Like lithium or some other high heat grease.

Sfttailrdr46 · « **Reply #13 on:** March 21, 2015, 08:27:20 AM »

If I were going to use anything it would be Ultymox/Kroytox #226 just a little dab and smear a thin coat

WeeHeavy · « **Reply #14 on:** March 21, 2015, 08:43:42 AM »

Quote from: wormbobskey on March 20, 2015, 06:14:46 PM

Can any type of grease be used on the hammer? Like lithium or some other high heat grease.

I have always heard that heavy greases should be avoided on the hammer and inside the tube, as it will actually slow the hammer down, producing under powered shots. Polishing the hammer and light, dry lube seems to be what works best.

Rivers3Plinker · « **Reply #15 on:** March 21, 2015, 08:54:14 AM »

Does anyone know what Crosman uses when they assemble?
A dry graphite coating would seem like a fine idea. There's not a lot of pressure or high heat here for moly right? It seems like just about anything would work in moderation except petroleum based products that might get in the valve somehow.

Bill G · « **Reply #16 on:** March 21, 2015, 01:35:00 PM »

We get it in large quantity at work. Any dry lube will work and my personal objection to liquids or geases are that they tend to hold onto particulate. That makes them kinda gummy over time. there is a graphite lube that I use on the slide of the 1911 and I can't remember the name off the top of my head. Worked great but I remember always hating the mess that it made. Inside a tube would probably be really good. Any dry graphite or moly-d will serve you well. McLube is just a brand/supplier. Another approach that you can take is too polish the hammer to a mirror finish. start with 400grit and end with 7 micron diamond paste. The hammer is hard and the tube is soft so as long as all the edges are smooth the likelyhood of raising a bur or galding is very low. Again the force on the bearing surface is pretty low. Probably highest during cocking.

FWIW
Bill

wormbobskey · « **Reply #17 on:** March 21, 2015, 01:50:37 PM »

The only mark in the tube is straight in-line with the sear slot. Looks like something from the trigger group may have got under the hammer and caused the scar. I applied some of the moly powder I got from Tim and it is easier to cock, but still sort of gritty feeling when its drawn back. I made sure that both screws in the hammer and bolt were tight. Still trying to tune this rifle and any time I try to increase the hammer spring tension the bolt gets harder to cock. Getting mid 700 FPS on the chrono with 21 gr H&N's. Would like to get the rifle in the mid 800's with these pellets if possible. Would hate to have to replace the tube or the hammer, but if need be that's what I would do. Can anyone post crosmans on line repair parts catalog? I'm pretty computer illiterate when it comes to searching for things on line. Again, I appreciate all the help. Mike

grauhanen · « **Reply #18 on:** March 21, 2015, 02:47:29 PM »

Dri-Slide makes a spray lubricant that has moly in it. It works very well for your application. I use it to lubricate the hammer on my HW100 so that it is less adversely affected when shooting in the cold. See http://www.drislide.com/products/drislide-ep-liquid-grease and http://www.drislide.com/products/drislide-multi-purpose-moly-lubricant

wormbobskey · « **Reply #19 on:** March 21, 2015, 03:36:24 PM »

If I'm reading the information correctly, once the carrier has evaporated then all that's left is the moly, graphite and rust inhibitors?
As a side note, I took the rifle out and shot 20 pellets through it with no major problems, but still feels a little gritty feeling. Good news is a starling made the mistake of trying to steal some dog food and paid the price. The marauder has been bloodied. Didn't even have to adjust scope after having removed it to work on the bolt and hammer. Center point may be on the low end of cheap scopes, but this one holds zero very well.

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Hammer lube in Marauder?

Author Topic: Hammer lube in Marauder? (Read 10140 times))