TX200 walnut stock question

[green1]

Can someone give me some pointers on care and weatherproofing for a new TX200 walnut stock?  It appears to have very little treatment from the factory.  I appreciate in advance any advice.

[longislandhunter]

I wipe all my guns down with a gun cloth sprayed with some Ballistol, it works fantastic.  Really brings out the shine in the wood, comes out beautiful.  Ballistol works well on the metal as well. 

I just recently read a post on another forum where guys were talking about using linseed oil on TX200 stocks and they were saying it really makes the wood come alive.  I have no experience with this though so I can't advise on using it. 

I'm sure one of the other members will chime in with more info.

Jeff

[green1]

I bought a can of Ballistol a while back.  I may give it a try (if I can stand the smell).  Thanks.

[longislandhunter]

Just spray a small amount on the gun cloth, a little goes a long way.  As for the smell.... yeah, it does have a strange odor to it but the odor doesn't cling to the rifle.  It really is amazing how nicely it cleans and shines up metal and wood and it removes all the finger prints and their resulting oil nicely. 

Jeff

[tpw]

i use carnnuba car wax on all my stocks and it works great

[Progun]

Yeah that Ballistol smell does remind me of Licorice.Good stuff. Now Green1, if you don't want to go the oil maintenance route you could also consider sealing the timbers with an oil that cures and hardens.Mccari's London oil for example or even a commercial stock finish like TruOil or even wipe on poly. If you do go that route be sure to prep the surface by removing oil and wax contaminates which would interfere with adhesion. And don't forget to seal the timbers in the inletted portion where the action rests.Sealing the timbers will give much protection from moisture and humidity changes and still highlight the grain.I chose to seal my walnut stock TX because no matter how much I buffed or waxed my cheekpiece always seemed to grab my beard. Sealing it stopped all those problems.

[gearsnguns]

A legendary gunsmith in the area uses this on everything, including $10,000.00 shotguns and stuff. I use it on my Daystate which has the same oiled finish as your AA. Smells good too! Called Clenzoil

[tpw]

the car wax works the saame if not better than all the expensive stuff

[tullja]

I am currently adding a finish to my walnut TX200. I did this with my AA Pro Sport, also.
I cut a 1 1/2" square of green 3M scotchbrite, and lightly rub in Watco Danish Oil with and against the grain. The idea of this method is to create fine walnut dust particles, that act as a grain filler and at the same time finishing the stock. I use the natural shade. They make several different shades. I then let it dry about half an hour and wipe off the excess oil with a lint-free cotton cloth. I let it dry for a day and then add another coat. After the last coat, I lightly buffed it with fine steel wool. The finish is satin, which is what I was wanting. You need to be careful with the checkering, but it's not bad.  I did 10 coats on my Pro Sport and I'm really pleased with the results.
Yes it takes some time, but these are nice rifles that need a well finished stock. For some reason Air Arms and Theoben apply very little finish on thier rifles. 

[bumps991]

Hello
I have a TX 200 that has a walnut stock and I refinished. I used Lin-speed, which is linseed oil with the foots removed. Meaning that the drying qualities are much better than boiled linseed oil which is recognized as a quality stock finish.
The wood was just beautiful,but the finish as you say is not of any second look.
What I did.
I wiped it down a couple of times to clean the surface with mineral spirits.I then applyed the lin-speed oil,finger and hand applacations.By the 3rd coat after jenerous drying time-2 days min per hand rubbed coat.
on the scallop -checkering- I used a touthbrush to apply and gently dobbed any excess.
If you want a finish that compares to a browning or weatherby.about 6-8 coats will make your stock show what kind of wood you have.
Semper Fi
Jerry

[gearsnguns]

the car wax works the same if not better than all the expensive stuff

Not to split hairs, but do you want to nurture it, or seal it? if you seal it, you wont be able to steel wool it when impact marks or scrapes show up. If you nurture it, you can steel wool it and then reapply Clenzoil to make it like new. There is a reason why AA didn't "seal" the stock. And if you do, you will be limited at what you can do for booboos.

[green1]

Wow!  What a wealth of knowledge on this forum!  So, if i were to use a product like Tru-oil, could I ever go back to the original oiled finish?  It sounds like this product may have a lacquer in it.  Does anyone know what exactly AA uses at the factory?  I'm leaning toward sticking with original style finish.
 Thanks for all the info.