RWS 34 barrel bending

[redcobra04]

A little history in order. Have a mod. 34 in .177 cal. That is driving me crazy. Have had the gun for 7 yrs. Got the package deal  with the RWS 4 power scope and the C mount. Got it sighted in at the time. Cant remember how exactly. It was a pain in the  butt. After 6 months of tighting loose screws and having to adjust scope everytime i would shoot it, left it in the corner until summer of 2014. Then i found this site and a couple of others. Got the bug again about air guns. Decided to dust off the 34 again. Read everything i could find on it. Figured out the scope and mount were junk. That explained a lot of my problems that came flooding back. Also locktight on the screws. Decided to go the whole route based on a lot of threads on here. Built a spring comppessor to put in a Vortek kit in it. Tore everthing down, deburred, cleaned everthing properly. Fixed the front stock screws by making inserts from brass an epoxied in place. Replaced screws with allen head screws with flat washers, loc tighted all screws. Orderd my first mount, UTG DN 034 for a T05 with +20.7 compensation based on droop problems read about here. Used UTG low 1 in rings. Centered the scope by click method. Figured would try it at my 20 yard target. Fired 3 shots, first 2 didnt see a hole anywhere on target. Third shot heard glass breaking. Went to look at target, no holes except for the shot out garage window. Shot 3 more times. Aimed 2 foot low. The pellets had a nice group except 20 inchs high and 5 right. Decided to try another scope, exactly the same thing. Good group but in the same spot give or take half inch. Well decided try a different mount set up. Put a BKL-260MB 1 pc on it. Moved closer to 10 yds so hopefully  wouldnt shoot no more windows. Now shooting 6 in low and 5 in right. Did the same with both scopes. Well one more set of UTG Accushot Med RGPM-24M4 1 in med 2 pc. Ten yards again 6 in low 5 in right. Now have enough rings and bases to fit all of my .22 PB rifles. Had some problems with my RWS 48 in .22. Getting scope centered but no where this extreme. Used Burris rings and the inserts to save my scope adjustments. Have another set of Burris rings that use inserts but everybody is back ordered. At this stage dont want to spend any more money on Thanks everybodymounts and rings. Based on my info which way do i need to bend barrel. Before i bend it into a pretzel LOL. Sorry if this is long winded, but tried to give some backgroud first. Thanks everybody for any input.




 

[grauhanen]

You have not mentioned adjusting the scope.  Are your scope adjustments maxed out?

[larspawn]

I bent my first 34, also with a Vortek, and it's an amazing shooter.  Nothing elegant for me.  Just a barbarian with a couple 2x4s, a clamp, and big rubber mallet!  Yup, first whack and it was spot on!  Yu can build an elaborate jig, clampl barrel in vise with a cheater pipe over it but honestly don't be afraid to take the mallet to it.

[redcobra04]

I would use up all of my adjustment in my scopes. I have no problem making a jig or whatever to do it. Just need to know which direction.

[grauhanen]

If you are convinced the barrel must be bent to "point in another direction," so to speak, bend the barrel in the direction that the pellet needs to go.

[Brazos]

Or just shim you scope rings. 

[Anthropy]

Try to shoot it with the iron sights at 10 yards to see if it stays on target?  How is your hold.  My p34 can be tricky and I do not rest the front of the forearm on anything.  Are your rings shifting?

Tom

[nced]

I've been bending HW barrels for a couple decades to get the poi within 1/2" of the aim point at 30 yards using my "tweaking tree" to add "snoop" or windage and a home made clamp to add droop if necessary. Here's a pic of my "tweaking tree".......
Uploaded at Snapagogo.com
Uploaded at Snapagogo.com

Here is a pic of the "clamp"..........
Uploaded at Snapagogo.com

Here is an experience I had with my recently bought Remington Express springer which is a Chinese hybrid of a HW95 and Diana34.........
The initial sight-in after some modding of the Remmy was rather "exciting" because the barrel had a lot of droop (well, a lot more than my R9s) sooooo........using my optically centered scope the poi was 3 1/2" low at only 18 yards! Then I found that the 15mm Chinese barrel on the Remmy was a lot more "noodley" than the 16mm R9 barrel made of German steel! Matter of fact, I bent the Remmy barrel as would have done to my R9 barrels and the rather soft steel was OVER BENT to the point that the snoop looked like I had "triggered off" the barrel! Well.....the good thing about "barrel bending" is that it was easy to straighten it a bit so the poi was close to the aim point! 

P.S. Here is an 18 yard group shot this evening hunter class field target style (sitting on a bucket resting the Remmy on cross sticks).........
Uploaded at Snapagogo.com
The group has six shots instead of the usual 5 because the 3rd shot was out of the group and I was verifying that the issue was the "trigger squeezer" instead of the Remmy!

[redcobra04]

Will try to answer in order. The gun will shoot 1 in groups at 20 yds with the iron sights to point of aim. Which is the best my eyes will do. Have never adjusted them either. The last set of accushots i used, had to shim to 42 thou. And still shooting a half inch low. Feel like that is to much stress on the scope tube. Still shoots 5 in right. Two different scopes same result. This is at 10 yds. Rings are not slipping. Put a different screw for stop pin that fits the hole in the gun. Instead of the little nub stop pin they give you. Every  set up either shoots  high and to right or low and to right. Will go ahead and try to bend the barrel to get POI up first then bend it POI left. Have nothing to lose really. Not doing me any good if i cant get it to shoot to polnt of aim. I would rather not adjust my scopes way out of range and ruin them to. I think i remember why i set it to the side now. Learned some new words back then. Will let you know how it turns out. Might have to wait a couple days, getting snow like crazy. Thanks everybody. Might end up with one i can shoot around corners.

[airgunrebel]

Please do not bend the barrel of the 34! They were designed that way. Just get a droop compensating mount.

[Roadworthy]

Was the Diana 34 designed that way?  Really?  My 34 has absolutely no barrel droop - much like my TX 200.  My Diana 35, on the other hand has plenty of droop.  Fortunately the RWS mount has enough compensation that the scope will zero without a hitch.

[MicErs]

The problem you are describing is definitely not "barrel droop".  Barrel droop is when the gun shoots low relative to the line of sight.  This gun is shooting high relative to the line of sight.  There is only one way that I know of to cause that with a springer, let the breech slam shut really hard, as in dry fired with the barrel in the cocked and open position or the barrel being almost fully cocked open and slipping out of your grip.  It didn't have to be you.  It is easy for someone to make that mistake with a break barrel springer if they are not aware of the issue.  Grand kids... kids... friends... curious relatives...  anyone can do it and it only takes once to get the kind of error you describe.

The fix is simple and you will never be able to see it.  Just optically center the scope and bend the barrel until it hits near center.  I don't have a "tweaking tree" but that is a pretty good method if you can find one, no harm to the finish and very controllable.  Just take it in a couple of sessions nice and easy so you don't over shoot your mark too much.   If you took it to an airgun smith that is exactly what he would do.

We talked about this in some other thread recently.

[redcobra04]

Update on model 34 sighting problems. Made a jig to bend the barrel ,left the scope on it which was optically centered. Used the  UTG Accushot 2 piece mounts which were shooting 6 in low and 5 in right. Proceded to bend the barrel up a little at a time. After every bend up would shoot a 3 shot group until finally got to point of aim. Then bent the barrel to the left the same way. Finally got both to point of aim. This was at 10 yds. Moved back to 20 yds. Shooting 1 in high and 1/2 to the right . Can live with that. Bending the barrel up is not noticeable, but to the left is slightly noticeable if your looking for it. After  much headache this rifle is usable now. Would i do this to my Model 48, or higher priced air guns. No way. Its been a learning experience for sure. Just want to thank all the members on this sight who i have learned alot from, and opened
My eyes to the air gun world.

[airgunrebel]

Was the Diana 34 designed that way?  Really?  My 34 has absolutely no barrel droop - much like my TX 200.  My Diana 35, on the other hand has plenty of droop.  Fortunately the RWS mount has enough compensation that the scope will zero without a hitch.

You are welcome to visit the Diana website for this discussion. The 34 has had the same barrel for years. The gun was not designed for a scope. The so called droop is a trait of the gun which when shot out of the box with the open sights is extremely accurate. Maybe Diana changed that recently. I do not know. The designed droop has been a discussion for years.

[Petey]

Update on model 34 sighting problems. Made a jig to bend the barrel ,left the scope on it which was optically centered. Used the  UTG Accushot 2 piece mounts which were shooting 6 in low and 5 in right. Proceded to bend the barrel up a little at a time. After every bend up would shoot a 3 shot group until finally got to point of aim. Then bent the barrel to the left the same way. Finally got both to point of aim. This was at 10 yds. Moved back to 20 yds. Shooting 1 in high and 1/2 to the right . Can live with that. Bending the barrel up is not noticeable, but to the left is slightly noticeable if your looking for it. After  much headache this rifle is usable now. Would i do this to my Model 48, or higher priced air guns. No way. Its been a learning experience for sure. Just want to thank all the members on this sight who i have learned alot from, and opened
My eyes to the air gun world.

Yes you would...LOL 
Like Ed, I too have had to adjust a barrel or two-three----  And guess what ? My 48 had more "Droop " in it than anything I have ever owned.
17 inches at twenty yards...a quick tweak and Viloa! She's a good as a it gets.  Barrels aren't perfect and adjusting them is just the ticket. Now you have bit more knowledge and experience and sweet shootin 34 to show for your effort.
Happy Shootin!
Petey

[airgunrebel]

Macers said it very well. "The problem you are describing is definitely not "barrel droop".  Barrel droop is when the gun shoots low relative to the line of sight.  This gun is shooting high relative to the line of sight.  There is only one way that I know of to cause that with a springer, let the breech slam shut really hard, as in dry fired with the barrel in the cocked and open position or the barrel being almost fully cocked open and slipping out of your grip.  It didn't have to be you.  It is easy for someone to make that mistake with a break barrel springer if they are not aware of the issue.  Grand kids... kids... friends... curious relatives...  anyone can do it and it only takes once to get the kind of error you describe."

Most complain about the 34 droop because when mounted with a scope he appears that way, yet will shoot perfectly on target with open sights. Simple fix is a correct adjustable scope mount.