Author Topic: Reworking the BAM stock for more grip & a better feel (Read 4802 times))

Motorhead · « **on:** February 15, 2015, 11:57:21 PM »

Out came the dental tools using a 3/32 diamond ball ... stipple stipple stipple we went following crayon lines drawn on the stock.
Once done a wipe down with Gel dark walnut minwax stain. When dry some satin lacquer spray, light rub down with 0000 steel wool followed up with paste wax.

Handling the rifle now it feels in hand so much better not being slippery but instead we have traction !!

Poor mans substitute for checkering

Sharing ideas to dress up your BAM on the cheap ... You could mask and sand blast too

Scott

Rocker1 · « **Reply #1 on:** February 16, 2015, 02:18:22 AM »

You did a great job on that stock Scott. David

mobilemail · « **Reply #2 on:** February 16, 2015, 09:20:37 AM »

Did you do some forearm shaping too? I have to figure out how to get the cheekpiece on the other side of the stock...

Tonycalves · « **Reply #3 on:** February 16, 2015, 09:50:21 AM »

Nice job Scott! Looks like it came that way.

wimpanzee · « **Reply #4 on:** February 16, 2015, 11:08:35 AM »

I think that looks very nice! Much better that the plain slick wood! Form and function both

Motorhead · « **Reply #5 on:** February 16, 2015, 11:59:53 AM »

Quote from: mobilemail on February 16, 2015, 09:20:37 AM

Did you do some forearm shaping too? I have to figure out how to get the cheekpiece on the other side of the stock...

Mark,
No reshape what so ever ... just the Stippling work.

moorepower · « **Reply #6 on:** February 16, 2015, 12:33:42 PM »

Wow, it looks like a different gun. The finish on mine is above average, but the stippling, you did made a huge improvement on the quality look of the gun.

cnjl3 · « **Reply #7 on:** February 16, 2015, 12:48:05 PM »

That came out very nice! Good job!

airgunnertoo · « **Reply #8 on:** February 16, 2015, 12:58:35 PM »

that's nice. I just got a marauder and I think the forearm checkering is a very ugly pattern. I would love to replace it with something like this.

hutnicks · « **Reply #9 on:** February 16, 2015, 02:13:20 PM »

Is that diamond ball just pressed into the wood or is it power drilled?

BigTinBoat · « **Reply #10 on:** February 16, 2015, 02:25:19 PM »

Quote from: Motorhead on February 15, 2015, 11:57:21 PM

Out came the dental tools using a 3/32 diamond ball ...

was that Dremel? or did you really mean dental?

either way it looks really nice

Motorhead · « **Reply #11 on:** February 16, 2015, 02:39:37 PM »

Quote from: BigTinBoat on February 16, 2015, 02:25:19 PM

Quote from: Motorhead on February 15, 2015, 11:57:21 PM
Out came the dental tools using a 3/32 diamond ball ...

was that Dremel? or did you really mean dental?

either way it looks really nice

Dremel will work too, just heavier and more fatiguing to use 1000's of dots later.
Dental tool is correct being very light weight and air powered.
Use what ya got and go slow ... if and when your hand gets shaky STOP and rest.

Making the small dots is hand bump sequence lightly touching down onto the wood in a RANDOM pattern until @ 80% of the original surface is gone. Using the SIDE OF BALL is faster than plunging straight down.

BigTinBoat · « **Reply #12 on:** February 16, 2015, 02:43:51 PM »

Quote from: Motorhead on February 16, 2015, 02:39:37 PM

Dremel will work too, just heavier and more fatiguing to use 1000's of dots later.
Dental tool is correct being very light weight and air powered.
Use what ya got and go slow ... if and when your hand gets shaky STOP and rest.

Gotcha - thanks

Kailua · « **Reply #13 on:** February 16, 2015, 06:28:25 PM »

I tried stippling but nothing near what you have done. That is some beautiful work.

1216bandit · « **Reply #14 on:** February 16, 2015, 07:40:46 PM »

Does that ever look good! You mentioned sand blasting...one would think that is likely to tear the wood up and leave a lot of fibres?? I will have to try that on some wood I have kickin around the garage.

Ribbonstone · « **Reply #15 on:** February 16, 2015, 07:41:02 PM »

Another way to stipple.

If you get really bored and want to spend a day pretending to be a woodpecker, can do a pretty nice job with a punch and light hammer.

Not a BAM….but you get the idea.

Old rusty Phillips screw driver: (idea here is to get 4 "stipples" per strike)

“Split” it along the recesses to make 4 points. If you have a Dremel andcut-off wheels, use it. If not, then you’ll have to anneal the screw driver and split it with a hack saw.

Triangular file to sharpen each of the 4 points into a pyramid shape (and about the same angle as a pyramid).

PRACTICE ON SCRAP FIRST.

Idea here is that you pinch the tip of the tool and hold it just above the surface of the wood. When you tap it, your hand tension kind of pulls it right back up…shift it over a tiny bit….hit it again…etc.

Have to be careful at the edges of your pattern, but once you get that done, the rest of the strippling is just mind numbing repetition.

Once done, the strippled area is raw wood. I elected to stain it dark and later toothbrush in a thin coat of finish (but tooth brush it as you do NOT want it to fill your hard made stipples).

Busta Cap · « **Reply #16 on:** February 16, 2015, 08:22:50 PM »

Motörhead and the rest of you old timers never cease to amaze me. I stand amazed and envious. Keep up the good work and keep sharing wth us less mechanically inclined newbies!!!!!!

Ribbonstone · « **Reply #17 on:** February 16, 2015, 08:30:24 PM »

Would have been a real challenger to punch-stipple the inside "roof" of a thumb hole stock.

Phire Phite · « **Reply #18 on:** February 16, 2015, 08:43:52 PM »

Very nice Scott. I have seen this on other forums as well using a wood burning kit. Just enough to get the bumps. Caution obviously necessary.

the sloth · « **Reply #19 on:** February 17, 2015, 02:45:52 PM »

Looks great. Did you use the same tool to do the edging?

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Reworking the BAM stock for more grip & a better feel

Author Topic: Reworking the BAM stock for more grip & a better feel (Read 4802 times))

BigTinBoat

BigTinBoat