Tuner's advice needed (crosshatch)

[T-Higgs]

Does this look normal? It seems pretty deep for cross hatching. I wonder if someone has been into this R1 before. It looks like this all the way to the transfer port.

[JimL911]

It does look bad. It could be from a bad home tune, swarf from factory or a broken spring. From the picture it looks worse toward the rear so I would bet on a broken spring causing it.

[T-Higgs]

If this tube is toast, where can I get a new one?

[BigTinBoat]

WOW - that doesn't look good. Since you say it goes all the way to TP I don't see how the spring could have caused it. Looks to me like someone (inexperienced) was in it.

Depending on the "depth" you might be able to hone the tube and get it out. If not, the Canadian supplier has the receiver for $179. Might do a google search and find something a bit less expensive

http://www.specialtyshootingsportsoutdoors.com/weihrauch-hw80/beeman-r1-receiver-tube-p2363.html

[JimL911]

Change the seals and see if it is consistent on the chrony.

[OleTomCat]

I would try to hone it out using a 1" dowel rod and 200 grit wet/dry paper till you get it even then step up to 400 then 600 when it is smooth go back with Ultimox as a lube this way you don't have to worry about cross hatching, dieseling or cold weather....

You may have to get an oversized seal from ARH so plan on that in advance...

[T-Higgs]

Ol Tom Cat, I tried that today.  My concern was not getting the tube evenly sized. I did by a SS seal and a bullet seal, which I believe to be a bit oversized, from ARH. I  was thinking I might have to find someone with a sunnen hone, or similar, to evenly hone the groves out. They go from threads to transfer port. I've read that you like to do honing by hand.  Do you think sand paper is the answer? Here is a pic of before and after I did some honing with 220 and 360. I am using ultimox.
Thanks

[OleTomCat]

Ol Tom Cat, I tried that today.  My concern was not getting the tube evenly sized. I did by a SS seal and a bullet seal, which I believe to be a bit oversized, from ARH. I  was thinking I might have to find someone with a sunnen hone, or similar, to evenly hone the groves out. They go from threads to transfer port. I've read that you like to do honing by hand.  Do you think sand paper is the answer? Here is a pic of before and after I did some honing with 220 and 360. I am using ultimox.
Thanks

I do prefer to hone by hand, I like to be able to feel how much resistance I am getting, the less resistance the more metal has been removed.  You have alot of work to do here, don't even thing about going to the 360 until all those deep scratches are are almost gone.  I might even get a power drill on this one since you have to remove so much.  If you are using the 1" dowel, get a 1/4" lag bolt, drill a pilot hole and then thread in the lag, whack the head off of the lad and use that as your chuck point for the drill, use lots of soapy water to wash away the swarf as you hone.  I usually split the dowel about the length of one sheet of paper so that I can fit the paper in the middle of the dowel and then trim the paper for even amounts on either side of the split, this maintains a long even work surface and provides for the best results.

[BigTinBoat]

I would get a 3/4" brake hone. They usually come with 220 grit stones. Use that in a cordless drill.

[OleTomCat]

I would get a 3/4" brake hone. They usually come with 220 grit stones. Use that in a cordless drill.

He won't be able to hone on the area where the cocking slot is with a brake hone, the slot will destroy the stones and cause more damage, if he just hones the area where the piston seal rides then he has an uneven tube that will not be easy to fit a seal to.

[T-Higgs]

That's what I'm thinking too Ole Tom Cat.  Im even a bit concerned about the threads on the trigger block.  A larger seal still needs to get by the threads.  I guess they need to be sized the same as the rest of the tube.   ?

[OleTomCat]

To get the seal past the threads you just need to cut a soda bottle or milk jug to make a small liner to compress and protect the seal for about an inch or so.  You may not be able to use to much sandpaper either, I forgot about the threads, since you will be taking the tops off of the threads as you push it into the tube...

[BigTinBoat]

I forgot about the threads, since you will be taking the tops off of the threads as you push it into the tube...

That's why I think a hone would be better. You can always make a spacer to fit in the cocking slot so that the stone will slide past it.

[Rocker1]

Wrap the hone with sandpaper and wet hone it that will keep the hones from grabbing the cocking slot, you probley want get it all out but the seal will wear into the imperfections. David

[tjk]

I wouldn't worry about the scarring in the slotted area as the piston seal doesn't reach back that far when the rifle is cocked. Your best bet would be to give Paul Watts a call and see if he will Sunnen home the action for you. This will not only help remove some if not all the scarring, but will correct any out of round areas that came that way from the factory. Having this done will also allow the seal/replacement seal to work better and more efficiently.

[T-Higgs]

I've read the praises of Paul Watts but unfortunately , he isn't taking on new work right now and not sure how long before he will.

Tim

[LAalex]

IIRC Vortek has a sunnen hone.  Mike Melick reported awhile back that he was getting one also.  My vote would be for the brake cylinder hone if doing DYI.

Scotty