Let me know how that white lithium grease works out as that's what I use in all my air guns. I never used moly, super moly, clear moly, holly moly, golly moly, polly moly, tar, clear tar, heavy tar or secret formulas. LOL
I was told to use super lube with ptfe in it, but after I did this last rebuild but I will give this a fair trial before calling it pass or fail! If its a fail I WILL USE SUPER LUBE / ptfe in it!
Not sure where I ever said the SuperLube was a no-no. SuperLube w/PTFE is probably one of the best things that you can use on the compression chamber walls. I used SuperLube w/PTFE all of the years that I tuned guns and would never use anything else on most guns. It is important (as with any other lubing) to remove any excess and that it should be a light film remaining on the wall. One of the best things about using it is that the PTFE has the ability to fill in many of the minute imperfections of the chamber. And... SuperLube w/PTFE is what is recommended in my tune guides on the website as well as in the GTA library.Personally, I would never use or suggest ATF. It is too thin to be of much lubrication value, especially long term because it wipes away almost immediately and can/will cause extreme detonation just about like any other petroleum product. Years and years ago people used to put it (as well as Slick 50 and some other oils and additives) in the port and into the chamber to give the gun more power. Of course the springs and seals let go and they never knew why. A good grade of 60 or 70% Moly is hard to beat when used in a springer. It really is to the benefit to both you and your gun to pay attention to how and what you do when tuning your gun and what you use to lube your gun. I get e-mails from people that I tuned guns for 8-10 even 12 years ago telling me that their gun is still shooting as good as the day they got it back but wondering if maybe it should be tuned again. My response to them is that …. If it is still shooting well… just keep shooting it.Very rarely did I ever have a gun returned and the reason was that I treated every gun as if it was my own and I wanted it to be the best it could be. And it was for that reason that reputation became what it was. My intent is not to blow my own horn here but it has been said by many that I am a legend in the world of airguns or in the world of springer airguns. Believe me, the only thing that I did was learn and absorb all that I could from both other pro’s and through experimentation throughout the years and then applied what I learned. And not only did I apply it, I passed it all onto others.Bt the way...There is a copy of the Tuning Test Data that every customer got with every tune. This data spread sheet is available to anyone who wants it. It is available in the libraryExcel FPS/FPE/Trigger Work Sheet - Donated by CDT as well as on my website in the “Airgun Info” section. http://www.charliedatuna.com/airgun_docs/Excel%20Chrony%20Data%20Processor.xlsCDT
The Moly and SuperLube are two completely different lubes that have their own purposes. The SuperLube is used as and for part of the assembly process whereas the Moly is used as the true ongoing lube for the gun over a long period of time. The Moly is a must. SuperLube is great for installing piston and seating the piston seal against the cylinder walls as it is being installed and and does help fill the imperfections with the Teflon, but it has no where near the lubing life and quality of the Moly. It is very important that the Moly does not have a hi viscosity or thin carrier.Shhh ... don't tell anybody but one of my secrets when tuning was to apply the SuperLube on the walls and then install the piston and seal, move it in and out the distance of travel in the compression chamber needed about a dozen times, remove the piston, wipe out the cylinder, Moly lube the the piston as usual part of the procedure and finally install it. But it is important that the cylinder has been deburred well before doing this or you will surely cut the seal.A point of interest regarding Moly.Moly comes in many grades with many different carriers. A good Moly does have a bit of a gritty feeling to it but that is the wonder of a good Molly. The less percentage of Moly, the less you can feel it and the more you will just feel the carrier. The Moly is like small microscopic ball bearings and is used in applications where two metal surfaces rub back and forth against each other and is not usually used in applications as a rule on rotating surfaces or things like bearing using cones or cups. Good Moly is very expensive. The Moly I used for tuning was a 77% Moly used in the Aerospace industry and if I recall it was almost $170.00 for 14 oz a number of years ago. But.... that was enough to do close to 1000 guns, would hold up and do it's job forever. That said though, JM's Moly is as good as the everyday airgun home tuner would ever need. It is well worth paying a little extra. CDT
Just things I do ...did Here he goes... bumping his gums again.. A quickie about lubing the piston and seal.... for what it's worth.When mounting the seal on the piston, I would use silicone grease although you could use the SuperLube. Just remove the excess. I would apply a thin application on the back of and on the cone part of the seal then install it on the piston. Now grasp the seal and turn it back and forth on the piston several times so that the seal sets firmly and perfectly centered. You can use either the silicone grease or Moly on the outer edge of the seal when installing the piston in the gun. I would normally use the Moly unless it was not a parachute type seal.The piston. Whatever you do, do not polish the piston. I chuckle to myself every time someone writes about how they polished the piston. Self defeating. In fact, if it has an extremely smooth or polished type surface you may want to rough it up just a little although that can be hard to do on some pistons because they are very hard steel. Much easier to do if you have a lathe. The logic here is that the Moly will adhere to the rougher surface and will hold the Moly better and it will not fly off so readily. Look at the piston and see if there is any shiny surfaces where the piston may have been rubbing the chamber wall. This may be visible if the gun has some mileage on it. If so, scuff it just a little if you can and apply a light film of Molly here. You will usually see this on the upper opposite side of the cocking slot. Lubing the piston. The piston itself should have a coat of Molly from the back of the seated seal to about one inch behind it around the piston. Do the same with the rear of the piston. This applied lube is what is going to provide the lube for your seal and provide the fuel for the compression chamber for the life of the tune. It should be covered well but not real heavy. Lube the cocking slot of the piston where the cocking foot/shoe rides. Guess I've made enough noise for one day.CDT
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