Author Topic: converting the .25 Condor to big bore... (Read 10884 times))

454 Big Block Chevy · « **on:** November 01, 2014, 05:23:30 PM »

Not sure how to even start with this project. i would like to build either a new condor, or convert mine to big bore. leaning towards .257 or .30 cal. i am curious as to what valves are available. i'm sure someone makes a uber valve for a condor...

i'd like to get roughly 150+ FPE, shoot around 1000-1100 FPS for flat trajectory and start casting my own boolets. i work at a ford dealership so lead wheel weights are basically endless supply for me.

Not paying out the @$$ for boolets will be nice.

Ideas? Thoughts? Concerns?

Onebaddj · « **Reply #1 on:** November 01, 2014, 06:34:03 PM »

Should be interesting build. But one question, what the he!! Are boolets? Lol

I use balance weights also for making my own fishing weights. Its embarrases the wife and kids when i jump out at stoplights to grab them out of the road.

rsterne · « **Reply #2 on:** November 01, 2014, 11:16:30 PM »

Just because you want to use bullets (or boolits) doesn't mean it's an advantage to push them over 1000 fps.... Their drag still skyrockets, and the wind drift increases, when you do that.... I'd sooner deal with trajectory and tune for minimum drift, which means stay in the 900s.... I would recommend you contact dyotat100 RE the Condor valve, he has a handle on how to make a ton of power with them.... For a barrel, go with the TJ's .257 liner with the 14" twist.... or if you want to go .30 cal and use both JSB pellets and light bullets, then the TJ's .300 cal Airgun liner that Sean and I designed, with a 26" twist.... If you want a .308 cal bullet only shooter, then the TJ's 20" twist is a winner....

Bob

Monkeydad1969 · « **Reply #3 on:** November 01, 2014, 11:21:44 PM »

Quote from: Onebaddj on November 01, 2014, 06:34:03 PM

Should be interesting build. But one question, what the he!! Are boolets? Lol

I use balance weights also for making my own fishing weights. Its embarrases the wife and kids when i jump out at stoplights to grab them out of the road.

HAHAHAHAHAHA! LMBO! Cause that is something I would do.

Joe

sshewins · « **Reply #4 on:** November 01, 2014, 11:40:24 PM »

Here's a tip. Wander around truck stops, or the roads immediately leading to them. We've got WAY bigger weights. And they fall off just as easy.

PakProtector · « **Reply #5 on:** November 02, 2014, 08:07:26 PM »

TJ also has a 14" twist .308...that is Doug's, and he reports good results with it. I am going to use one for my next Marauder build. Likely less than 30" long, but more than 24...

If you're going to cast, you will want Tin to add; it makes the stuff fill the mold by reducing surface tension. Hunt around for hallmarked Pewter, it is mostly Tin, and other useful alloying elements.
cheers,
Douglas

dyotat100 · « **Reply #6 on:** November 02, 2014, 08:46:26 PM »

I use pure lead or 98-99% pure and have no issues with casting. Even the small .257's cast excellent.

I add about 6" of plumbers silver bearing solder to a full pot. Veral from LBT told me to do that.

KnifeMaker · « **Reply #7 on:** November 05, 2014, 07:55:47 PM »

Howdy Doug!

LOL!!! If you are putting silverbearing solder in. You are now using a tin/lead alloy. Not pure lead. You said many times while talking to you on the phone that you were using PURE lead, and it was filling out just fine. LOL!

You are using PURE with tin added. Just as I suggested that you try.

RJ also told me he cast with pure lead only. I got some lead from him, and low and behold, it cast well. Later he told me it's roofing lead. Hello!!! Roofing lead has TIN n it Guy's!!!

Tofasfou has also told me he uses pure lead, and his bullets cast very well. Humm-wonder what he is using for PURE lead. Seems folks aren't paying attention to what they are using very well!

Tin makes a HUGE difference in these smallish .257's! LOL!!!

KnifeMaker

dyotat100 · « **Reply #8 on:** November 05, 2014, 08:41:15 PM »

I only add it for the silver. I'm adding maybe 2 ounces into 320 ounces.

Sometimes I add it and sometimes I don't. I don't really notice any difference except that the bullets are shinny.

Onebaddj · « **Reply #9 on:** November 05, 2014, 10:41:06 PM »

WHat part of the roof has the lead? Its dark out and I need more fishing weights.

Seriously though hows the build going sofar? Any progress?

Also The TJ barrels, can someone post a link to his stuff? I have googled it several times and cant find a direct link but every body says he has great barrels.

Monkeydad1969 · « **Reply #10 on:** November 05, 2014, 10:44:15 PM »

Quote from: Onebaddj on November 05, 2014, 10:41:06 PM

WHat part of the roof has the lead? Its dark out and I need more fishing weights.

Seriously though hows the build going sofar? Any progress?

Also The TJ barrels, can someone post a link to his stuff? I have googled it several times and cant find a direct link but every body says he has great barrels.

Bob can give you his contact info. I believe it's here on the Forum too.

rsterne · « **Reply #11 on:** November 05, 2014, 10:49:17 PM »

TJ's has no website.... Call Mike at (859) 635-5560 to discuss your needs.... Even his printed list is not up to date, he has many mandrels not on it....

Bob

KnifeMaker · « **Reply #12 on:** November 06, 2014, 01:10:08 AM »

LOL!!! Doug, Silver solder doesn't have any real silver in it! Good thing too. Your bullets would be far too hard to shoot. Not to mention they would shrink a LOT when setting up. Far too much to fit your barrel.

I have tons of silver solder here for the knives. It it had silver,I would be melting it down! Your cracking me up!
It's the TIN that makes it appear silver like and shiney.

Knife

KnifeMaker · « **Reply #13 on:** November 06, 2014, 01:12:34 AM »

double post

KnifeMaker · « **Reply #14 on:** November 06, 2014, 01:14:45 AM »

And triple post LOL!!!

rsterne · « **Reply #15 on:** November 06, 2014, 01:16:51 AM »

I don't know what bearing solder is like, but I use Easy-Flo 45 when I do silver soldering, and it's 45% silver.... http://www.silfos.com/products/catalog/Easy-Flo-45-3-oz-p-177.html

Bob

KnifeMaker · « **Reply #16 on:** November 06, 2014, 01:19:19 AM »

You don't want that in your pot! It's harder than antimony! There would be NO advantage to it other than making the bullet too hard! And causing undue friction.

Most people call just about any solder silver solder. It's kinda generic. The 60-40 and 35-65 is often called silver solders, or silver bearing solders, but they stopped using it in the mix decades ago.

If doug is using the real thing, it would explain his ultra high temps he is using for his casting. I wouldn't want to be around those fumes! Not to mention what it can do to the molds. Oh *(&^ No!!!

Bob, look at the link you provided. Check out the melting point, and then the flow point. You want to cast boolits at that kind of temp?

That is insane.

Knife

rsterne · « **Reply #17 on:** November 06, 2014, 01:22:34 AM »

I didn't say I used it for alloying lead, I said I used it for sliver soldering.... because of the statement you made that silver solder didn't have silver in it, which is incorrect... BTW, the last time I bought some, it was $45.00, so you're not going to be melting it down to recover the silver....

BTW, it would be better if you didn't assume others were idiots and use ridicule as your mainstay.... it isn't very becoming....

Bob

KnifeMaker · « **Reply #18 on:** November 06, 2014, 01:29:15 AM »

Quote from: rsterne on November 06, 2014, 01:22:34 AM

I didn't say I used it for alloying lead, I said I used it for sliver soldering.... because of the statement you made that silver solder didn't have silver in it, which is incorrect... BTW, the last time I bought some, it was $45.00, so you're not going to be melting it down to recover the silver....

Bob I was cracking a funny . but Doug says he "IS" using it! I never said that you were. I don'' see how that would work fro Doug. Especially safely!

I have trying to get why Doug used such a high temp for a long time. I do know that several long time casters have tried to tell him to back off the heat, but he seems to get good results way up there. But even the very high temps he is telling me he uses, still wouldn't melt the "real" Silver solder. It would never go into full solution.

I have spoken to Veril as well, and that is NOT what I understood him to be saying. He told me 60-40 silver solder. Which is generic term for a common solder made from tin/lead.

Unrepented also said the same here on the forum. . As have many-many others over the years on different casting forums. And no one is calling anyone an idiot. Doug and I are friends. Along with Cedric and unrepented, so ease up there a little partner!

and yes melting lead, and carrying it near its out gassing zone would be insane. Any advice otherwise would be irresponsible.

You are a very sharp person. Surly you get the danger here?

Knife

rsterne · « **Reply #19 on:** November 06, 2014, 01:37:07 AM »

I have good success using 1% Tin, 99% pure Lead, and I run my pot at 800-850*, near 850 on .22 cal molds more like 800 on .35 and larger, other calibers in between.... I don't really find any difference between 1% Tin and 2%, other than I may be able to drop the temperature slightly (25*?) with the higher Tin content.... I guess whatever works for you is the best, right?.... I use a Lee bottom pour pot....

Bob

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converting the .25 Condor to big bore...

Author Topic: converting the .25 Condor to big bore... (Read 10884 times))