Ruger Airhawk needs a piston seal. What else can I do since it's open?

[56S]

I picked up a reman Ruger Blackhawk Elite and have been having a blast with it.  Chipmunks fear me.    I'd guess about 2,000 CPL boxed domes through it and good up until now.  What was 880 FPS is now 760.   I felt what I thought was some piston slam andoff to the Chrony it was.  The piston shows little wear.  It just doesn't catch the air and open.   Also found was a loose rod in the piston.  That has been drilled and welded.

What I am wondering is what else should I do once I'm in there.  Since I only have 60 some bucks into this thing I'm not buying a big buck tune kit.  I'll save that for the LGU.  What is this I read about spring guides or tophats being swapped?  Where to get a decent seal?

Thanks,

[Bullit]

Here ya Go.   Seals:   http://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/page/page/251485.htm

Play in the piston rod is designed in that rifle.  It is a copy of the Diana 34. You May wanna put it together again, and check to make sure it locks up properly when you cock it, and engages the safety now. The Piston rotates in the rifle, and gravity helps secure everything to the rod, no matter the position of the Piston.

[Tommy]

Call or email Mike at FlyingDragon. He will have everything you need.and some really good advise.
The man knows his stuff.
Tom

[56S]

Here ya Go.   Seals:   http://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/page/page/251485.htm

Play in the piston rod is designed in that rifle.  It is a copy of the Diana 34. You May wanna put it together again, and check to make sure it locks up properly when you cock it, and engages the safety now. The Piston rotates in the rifle, and gravity helps secure everything to the rod, no matter the position of the Piston.

Not sure I follow you.  I see four parts to the piston, maybe three.  The seal, the piston head, the rod and the skirt.  When I got this gun the piston head, rod and skirt were all centered and tight.  Today there was movement.  I can see the rod and the head being able to rotate but the skirt must always be oriented the same due to the cocking slot.  I'll take a close inspection of my rod to see if the sear has been contacting it in different places

[1216bandit]

While you have it apart it makes sense to de-bur all the slots/stamped cut outs on the compression tube.  If you have lubes on hand you could lube the compression tube after a light cross hatch.  For the cross hatch I just use a foam sausage roller, wrap some light paper around it held with a tight rubber band in the middle, chuck it up in your cordless and your good to go.  After the cross hatch I burnish a bit of lube into the tube with the roller minus the paper.  You could also do the second screw in the trigger mod...that makes a big difference.  Some where there are detailed instructions for the trigger or you could get in touch with Mike.   

[big_o_lar]

this
http://vortekproducts.com/ourstore/RWS-Diana34

[56S]

While you have it apart it makes sense to de-bur all the slots/stamped cut outs on the compression tube.  If you have lubes on hand you could lube the compression tube after a light cross hatch.  For the cross hatch I just use a foam sausage roller, wrap some light paper around it held with a tight rubber band in the middle, chuck it up in your cordless and your good to go.  After the cross hatch I burnish a bit of lube into the tube with the roller minus the paper.  You could also do the second screw in the trigger mod...that makes a big difference.  Some where there are detailed instructions for the trigger or you could get in touch with Mike.

I should have added that this rifle was gone over before I shot it.  The above and more were done the day I brought it home.

[56S]

this
http://vortekproducts.com/ourstore/RWS-Diana34

See OP. 

[jfrey]

A few other things to check on or consider in addition to the list above

Second Screw Modification
Polish the spring ends
Consider a top hat.
Check the thin steel washer between the spring and the rear spring guide for wear or signs that the spring can't rotate freely.
Consider the "poor man's Vortex kit".  This is done by reversing the steel piston sleeve. Or DIY a plastic piston sleeve:
    http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php/topic,8330.msg68150.html#msg68150
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=49233.msg465513#msg465513

Debur, polish and lube.

Other trigger work may include replacing the cross pins if there is any slop or play between the pins and the holes in the trigger housing.

[TooJung2Die]

Not sure I follow you.  I see four parts to the piston, maybe three.  The seal, the piston head, the rod and the skirt.  When I got this gun the piston head, rod and skirt were all centered and tight.  Today there was movement.  I can see the rod and the head being able to rotate but the skirt must always be oriented the same due to the cocking slot.  I'll take a close inspection of my rod to see if the sear has been contacting it in different places

My Air Hawk had a loose piston head right out of the box. Since the crimp is so heavy that connects the head to the piston body I thought it couldn't be right. I welded the head to the piston body. All I've done is replace the stock seal with a Vortek ProSeal black. It shoots 990+ fps with 8.3gr Superdome. I don't find the shot cycle annoying. If I did I would sleeve the piston with plastic. I have done this on a B3 I shoot a lot. It works well. I've taken the B3 apart a couple of times and the only wear I see on the plastic sleeve is along the cocking slot. Cut the plastic to fit tight with the edges butted and it'll stay in place.

[JimL911]

You are correct about the piston. It cannot rotate.
You really should put a kit in to get the most out of it. At the least change the spring while it is open. No point changing the seal only to have the spring fail and have to open it up again.

[56S]

What is this vortek pro seal black you type of?  Sounds like I need one.

[TooJung2Die]

What is this vortek pro seal black you type of?  Sounds like I need one.

Good question. I went to the Vortek site and searched for them. They're gone. The ProSeal came in red and black. Black seals were of a softer material and more forgiving of fit and compression tubes with minute variations. Now they only seem to carry the red ones. Too bad, but the red seals are the most popular.
Jon

[56S]

Finally getting back to the Ruger.  Vortek offers an Oring seal for the D34.  Ordered it last night.  Most of all the other tricks mentioned here have already been done and with it being a thunker instead of a twanger I think I'll replace the seal and get back to wishing the LGU were available.

[56S]

The Vortek Oring seal is in. Early chrony reading show no power loss.  It fits snug. I was hoping for a looser fit and maybe break the 900fps barrier.  Let me get a few hundred rounds on the new seal and I'll report back.  Gone shooting!

[56S]

The Vortek Oring seal is in. Early chrony reading show no power loss.  It fits snug. I was hoping for a looser fit and maybe break the 900fps barrier.  Let me get a few hundred rounds on the new seal and I'll report back.  Gone shooting!

I am very happy with the results of the new Vortek Oring piston seal.  Mid 50 here today and the AG are at that temp.  First shot cold was 901, second through ten all between 905 and 908.  That is consistent giving around 14.3 Ft/Lbs at the muzzle with the boxed 7.9s

[TooJung2Die]

You'll like the Vortek o-ring seal. One thing I noticed about the one I have in the Diana 45 is it doesn't require any warm up shots like the rest of the parachute sealed spring pistons. First shot is right where the last shot was when I put it away. Extreme spread is tight as you already noticed. O-rings don't last as long though so I hope you have an extra.

[56S]

I got a spare and figured they included one because I'd need it. I'm hoping I can source one locally as well.  I need to check to see if they make one for the B19 series for my NVD.