AirHawk barrel is loose

[TooJung2Die]

Yup, it rotates in the breech block. Not much but I can wiggle it by holding the barrel and twisting. Slight up and down, side to side movement as well. It was shooting dime size groups and gradually the groups opened up to 3" at 25 yards. Checking everything I found the wobbly barrel.

First I'm going to clean out the gap between the barrel and breech block as good as possible with acetone and compressed air. Then I'll put some Loc-tite 290 in the gap and hope it sets up tight. If this fails there's plan 'B': Remove the barrel from the breech and assemble using Loc-tite 640.

There's a pin through the breech block and barrel that will have to be driven out. Does anyone know if the XS25/AirHawk barrel is pressed into the breech or threaded?

Plan 'C'? Tack weld the barrel to the breech. Got any better ideas besides replacing the barrel?
Thanks, Jon

[jfrey]

I have an air hawk barrel with exactly the same symptoms.   I replaced it with a new XS-25 barrel from flying dragon and the old barrel has been sitting on the shelf ever since.    I've been keeping it around with the idea of using it to practice barrel lapping on.   But now......

So the pin in the breech block.  I can't confirm that it runs all the way through.  I can only see it on one side of the breech block.   Can you see it on both sides of your breech block?   If  it doesn't go all the way through I'm stymied on how to get this barrel out of  the block.

Thanks 

[TooJung2Die]

So the pin in the breech block.  I can't confirm that it runs all the way through.  I can only see it on one side of the breech block.   Can you see it on both sides of your breech block?   If  it doesn't go all the way through I'm stymied on how to get this barrel out of  the block.

I can see the ends of the pin on both sides of the breech block. Thanks for confirming the XS25 barrel is a direct swap. It would be a shame to give up on this barrel, it was a good one until it came loose. I had to weld the head of the piston to the body because it was loosely crimped. Now the barrel is loose because it was poorly manufactured. The piston seal was scored but that was expected. What's next? Cheap air rifles are no bargain unless you like working on them. 

[jfrey]

I can't really blame my loose barrel on manufacturing because I once depressed the safety and pulled the trigger when the gun was cocked.  Besides being stupid and putting my underwear at risk I turned the barrel into a pretzel.    Most of the bend was right where the barrel enters the breech block so straightening the barrel across that short of a run must have had consequences to the fit with the breech block.   

I'm gonna whack that pin with a punch and see if I can get it to reveal itself on the other side of the block.   I'll let you know.

[jfrey]

OK,  Pins is out and the barrel is out of the breech block.   I'm not going to type a thousand words to replace these pictures but let me know if you have any questions.   For you and I, the pin was the only thing left to keeping the barrel in the block.  the "knurled" surface press fit has failed us.

If you don't use iron sights one possible fix would be to open up the two sight mounting holes in the breech block enough to get some weld down into them to fill the void  at the flat.

[TooJung2Die]

John, you da Man! Thanks for doing that. Scott (motorhead) has recommended using Loc-tite 640 if you can get the barrel apart as you have done. Then there's always the old standby - JB Weld. Others have drilled, tapped and added a grub screw through the block and into the barrel. I just needed to know how it came apart if Loc-tite 290 green wicking grade failed. Thanks!
Jon

[jfrey]

I'm glad I could help.   Your information about the pin going all the way through was vital.  thanks.   

Please let me know what works best for you as I am now very very interested to learn the best way to put this back together.        LOL   

[56S]

Mine looks to be silver soldered in place. I have no idea of the required temps to solder as compared to removing the temper of the steel but Google would. 

[TooJung2Die]

I'm glad I could help.   Your information about the pin going all the way through was vital.  thanks.   
Please let me know what works best for you as I am now very very interested to learn the best way to put this back together.        LOL

I have some other projects taking priority but when I get it done I'll revisit this thread and post my results. Thanks again.

56s - You sure it's solder and not some type of bonding agent? I think that heating to silver solder temps would change the temper of the steel.

[56S]

One reason I suggest silver solder is that gunsmiths commonly use this procedure to attach sights to PBs.

[TooJung2Die]

One reason I suggest silver solder is that gunsmiths commonly use this procedure to attach sights to PBs.

Good point.

[TooJung2Die]

OK,  Pins is out and the barrel is out of the breech block.   I'm not going to type a thousand words to replace these pictures but let me know if you have any questions.   For you and I, the pin was the only thing left to keeping the barrel in the block.  the "knurled" surface press fit has failed us.

Got it apart and this barrel assembly is different. There is no knurl on the barrel. There is no glue or filler to help hold the barrel in the breech. When the barrel is now inserted in the breech block the fit is pretty loose. The only thing that seemed to be holding the barrel in place is the pin. The pin was very tight and not easy to drive out. The barrel came out by twisting and pulling by hand.

John, did you put your barrel back together? I'm thinking something like JB Weld would be sufficient to hold this tight if all there was to begin with was a loose mechanical fit and a pin.

[56S]

I'd got it a shot. JB is fairly hard once it cures.  Since all you are doing is filling voids, why not?

[TooJung2Die]

I'd got it a shot. JB is fairly hard once it cures.  Since all you are doing is filling voids, why not?

I'll get some JB today and put it back together. I'm wondering how they ever expected this barrel to stay tight the way it was assembled. At least John's barrel was knurled and pinned. This barrel has no knurl and is loose inside the breech. Did they forget to knurl some barrels and assembled them anyway? No wonder the shot pattern began to get wider and wider.

I know I only paid $75 new for this but I'm shaking my head at the lack of quality control. It is a pretty nice gun to look at on the outside but inside it has been a different story. I wanted a project and I got one. Don't think a new air gun should be a repair project though. Keep in mind I returned the first Air Hawk because it was so obviously flawed. If I'm not happy with the way it turns out I'll see if I can get a .22 XS25 barrel for it.

I noticed there is an 'R' stamped in the breech block on top of the Ruger emblem. It is the only stamp. All the other lettering is etched. "Ruger" or "Refurbished"?

Jon

[RCO]

I believe the stamped R would indicate a refurbished gun. I bought a refurbished gun and that was how it was marked.

[Blue]

I noticed there is an 'R' stamped in the breech block on top of the Ruger emblem. It is the only stamp. All the other lettering is etched. "Ruger" or "Refurbished"?

I just checked the two Ruger barrels I have and it's tough to say for sure but it looks like mine are all etched but the "R" is in exactly the same place.  To be fair, it's pretty small and I didn't use a side light to really give it a close look so it could be a light stamp in the middle of the engraving but it looks pretty consistent.

Weird for sure but I doubt they could or would be able to stamp the "R" for "Refurbished" exactly over (and the same size as) the existing "R" in their logo.

You could find someone at UMAREX USA to ask/email the picture to, I'd guess that they're the ones who'd get the returns back and mark the ones that go out again.

Blue

[56S]

I'll look at my refurb Ruger later today

[TooJung2Die]

I just checked the two Ruger barrels I have and it's tough to say for sure but it looks like mine are all etched but the "R" is in exactly the same place.  To be fair, it's pretty small and I didn't use a side light to really give it a close look so it could be a light stamp in the middle of the engraving but it looks pretty consistent.

Blue, you're right. It's a logo 'R'. Under magnification it is a stylized letter and matches the Ruger logo.

I have it together waiting 24 hours for the JB Weld to cure. I'm glad I got the 25 minute set stuff. I buttered up the barrel and inside breech block so there was plenty of excess to clean off. Denatured alcohol works great for JB Weld clean up while it is soft. I got the excess out of the nooks and crannies and I'm quite sure the gaps between the barrel and breech block are fully filled.

Time to inspect and lube the recently acquired Diana 52 while I'm waiting on the JB Weld to cure.
Jon

[jfrey]

I haven't put mine back together but JB weld will be the "stuff" of choice.    Rebuilding that barrel will be a winter project.     Mine is serial number 000152783.   What's your serial number.  It would be interesting to determine if the factory in China stopped knurling them or started knurling them at some point.

cheers

[56S]

I'll look at my refurb Ruger later today

My R is plainly stamped after the serial number.