Daisy 880/901 trigger mods

[N.E.Dan]

I've got one I can't figure out.
Took her apart (880) new style and polished cleaned and lubed. Reassembled and when I pump her to five she shoots fine.
6 and I get a small fart, if I pull the receiver port handle back and forth I'll get another small fart. Three of them for 6 pumps 4 if I pump it 8 times.
I did remove the flat spring and re inserted it,  makes no difference same behavior.
What might I have done wrong? Could I have removed too much material from the trigger assembly
any clues??

[Underdog]

You can remove too much material with these modifications.
When I did mine, I had a different problem. I got the trigger travel so small, that it was very close to pulling the valve open even before the trigger was pulled. If I "squeezed" the trigger as I was taught, the air would leak out slowly and the pellet barely pop out of the barrel...
If I YANKED the trigger the air would dump suddenly and the pellet zing out of the barrel.
Needless to say, I need to install a new trigger set....

[JoeShmoe]

Yellow

Thanks - that's what I was thinking.

On mine I filed 1/2 of the "hook" on the trigger that holds the hammer. Basically I cut the travel in half. It looked to do the same as the "soup can" not letting the trigger go all the way forward. But it did nothing for the "downward" pressure.

For 12 bucks I figure it's worth a shot

I just took off a bit of material from the hook as well. I filed it down gently and removed only a small amount of material. I filed it flat with no rounding of any edges. I then polished the surface with 600 grit sandpaper. The only other trigger modification was the removal of the leaf spring.

It shortened up the pull necessary to get the gun to fire. In my case it put it at a rather predictable location just beyond pulling in the initial "slop" in the trigger. It's much easier to use now because it's an easier distance to "fire" for my finger to judge.10/10 would file down trigger hook again.

Here's an image with an arrow pointing to that hook that I filed down. This is an unchanged trigger, but I really didn't take off much material:

[dlparish]

Hi All

    This is my first post. 

   This is a very informative Thread.
 I have a Daisy 822 it is a .22 And has a wood stock.
  They made them for about two years in the U.S.A. before changing to Daisy 882 SG,


I just did the trigger mod and it worked very fine.
I will be shooting this airgun  a lot more now.

the 822 has a flat piston not dish so if you need a flat piston this should work in the other gun in this family.

let me add some thing.   all these airguns have a barrel shroud. check and see if the end of the barrel fit tight with no slop.
mine had some slop so i used one round of masking tape to take up the slop at the muzzle and it is a tack driver now.

it shoots better with no slop.

dlparish

[Rob M]

Hi All

    This is my first post. 

   This is a very informative Thread.
 I have a Daisy 822 it is a .22 And has a wood stock.
  They made them for about two years in the U.S.A. before changing to Daisy 882 SG,


I just did the trigger mod and it worked very fine.
I will be shooting this airgun  a lot more now.

the 822 has a flat piston not dish so if you need a flat piston this should work in the other gun in this family.

let me add some thing.   all these airguns have a barrel shroud. check and see if the end of the barrel fit tight with no slop.
mine had some slop so i used one round of masking tape to take up the slop at the muzzle and it is a tack driver now.

it shoots better with no slop.

dlparish

everyone does the tape mod because they all have that play in the shroud , welcome to the daisy craziness !

[N.E.Dan]

Hi All

    This is my first post. 

   This is a very informative Thread.
 I have a Daisy 822 it is a .22 And has a wood stock.
  They made them for about two years in the U.S.A. before changing to Daisy 882 SG,


I just did the trigger mod and it worked very fine.
I will be shooting this airgun  a lot more now.

the 822 has a flat piston not dish so if you need a flat piston this should work in the other gun in this family.

let me add some thing.   all these airguns have a barrel shroud. check and see if the end of the barrel fit tight with no slop.
mine had some slop so i used one round of masking tape to take up the slop at the muzzle and it is a tack driver now.

it shoots better with no slop.

dlparish

everyone does the tape mod because they all have that play in the shroud , welcome to the daisy craziness !

Mine came without any need for a Tape mod. It's one of the new Purple stocked  880's. 
I do have a wood stock 822 that I will check for barrel slop at the barrel end .
Thanks

[dukja]

Yellow

Thanks - that's what I was thinking.

On mine I filed 1/2 of the "hook" on the trigger that holds the hammer. Basically I cut the travel in half. It looked to do the same as the "soup can" not letting the trigger go all the way forward. But it did nothing for the "downward" pressure.

For 12 bucks I figure it's worth a shot

I just took off a bit of material from the hook as well. I filed it down gently and removed only a small amount of material. I filed it flat with no rounding of any edges. I then polished the surface with 600 grit sandpaper. The only other trigger modification was the removal of the leaf spring.
...
Here's an image with an arrow pointing to that hook that I filed down. This is an unchanged trigger, but I really didn't take off much material:

Thanks a lot for the photo.  I also plan to do mine but still not 100% clear on some details:
1. Did you still "file along the yellow line"?  Is the purpose to make the original square corner (of the protruded block on sear) to a 45-degree "chopped" corner?
2. And then you file out a little height of the trigger hook.  About how much percentage of the original height?

Thanks a lot for the clarification!

[Underdog]

Mine came without any need for a Tape mod. It's one of the new Purple stocked  880's. 
I do have a wood stock 822 that I will check for barrel slop at the barrel end .

Purple? I haven't seen any purple stocks for 880s.
I've seen PINK, but no purple.

[N.E.Dan]

Ok so maybe it's supposed to be dark brown.
Maybe it is brown to some. To me it's Oxblood purple.
I liked the plastic Blond wood.

[JoeShmoe]

Yellow

Thanks - that's what I was thinking.

On mine I filed 1/2 of the "hook" on the trigger that holds the hammer. Basically I cut the travel in half. It looked to do the same as the "soup can" not letting the trigger go all the way forward. But it did nothing for the "downward" pressure.

For 12 bucks I figure it's worth a shot

I just took off a bit of material from the hook as well. I filed it down gently and removed only a small amount of material. I filed it flat with no rounding of any edges. I then polished the surface with 600 grit sandpaper. The only other trigger modification was the removal of the leaf spring.
...
Here's an image with an arrow pointing to that hook that I filed down. This is an unchanged trigger, but I really didn't take off much material:

Thanks a lot for the photo.  I also plan to do mine but still not 100% clear on some details:
1. Did you still "file along the yellow line"?  Is the purpose to make the original square corner (of the protruded block on sear) to a 45-degree "chopped" corner?
2. And then you file out a little height of the trigger hook.  About how much percentage of the original height?

Thanks a lot for the clarification!

I did not file down any other parts. Removing the leaf spring is the only other trigger mod I've done. I wasn't 100% convinced that filing down the yellow line mentioned earlier in this thread would give me a trigger feel I wanted (then again, I know very little about triggers other than what a basic understanding of mechanics gets me). It seemed to me like it would result in a less predictable trigger. Again, someone who knows more can tell me why I'm wrong.

As for the amount of material I removed, I would have to guess at only 10%. Remember, this mod will move the break point in the trigger forward, but it can't be moved back once you do. If you're unsure, just remove less than you think is necessary. If it's still more travel than you'd like, take it apart and remove a little more. Again, I only removed about 10% (mayyyyybe 25%) so go slow!

On the other hand, it's a cheap part, so you can always just order a new one if you don't like the results.

[JoeShmoe]

I should really say, I took out the "roundess" of the trigger hook and maybe a tiny bit more. Call that whatever percent you want. You would not be able to tell I filed it down from a side-on glance. I only filed down the vertical face and none others.

[dukja]

Thank you so much for your follow-up reply. 

I totally agree with your suspicion on filing along the yellow line.  I couldn't figure our the rationale behind either.  That was why I would like to check with your experience.  I did remove the flat spring long ago so my trigger weight has drop at least 50% already.  Still I would like to reduce the pull length of the trigger.

I have not had a chance to work on the 880 either (too much shooting fun with my 853,  )  I'll study the trigger action when I do.  And I'll report back my trigger mod result.

Thanks again!

[dukja]

Last night I worked on 880 a little bit and studied on the trigger action.  After working on my CMP 853 and 499B so much now, I become quite comfortable to work on it.  After some observation, I understand the purpose of previous mods and also came up my own mod. 

My mod is very simple and reversible.  I used a small piece of cut out from credit card and inserted it between one contacting surfaces of the trigger and sear.  The piece is just adhered there by lubricant.  The result is about 1lb super crispy trigger (no 1st stage AT ALL) and it can be tuned by the card thickness.    Initial test is very promising and I will test it further and report back.

DISCLAIMER: not responsible for any issue or damage by this suggestion.  Be very careful working on trigger.

[Yng@hrt]

Obviously a newbie. Very old (compared to most folks on here I'm sure) but decided to try this 880 so I could have fun with my son's & hopefully grandkids some day. I think I'm having more fun then them. Anyway, great little gun but like most folks have already mentioned...probably the worst trigger on the market. So...I found this quote from a thread back in 2013 & was wondering if anyone else has tried it? If so, give me your thoughts & please post any pics u might have. May even be on this thread...just don't know what to look for. Heck I can't even remove the butt stock. Thought the thing would come off with just the 6 screws.

Anyway...thanks' in advance.

Grind the trigger down where it holds the sear. You'll see that it's square and you want to round it so it will take less lbs of pull to fire it. Sand then lube and you'll feel a big difference. When your 880 bites the dust remove the trigger and install it in a new 880 if you plan to get another one.

[avator]

Marty, you would be very surprised to see how many of us old farts are here. I think I might suggest to you that you try a few reversible mods on that trigger before you start grinding. Like the one just before your post with the nib of credit card. If you grind too far one of two things can happen. The gun won't engage the sear or the gun will fire with the slightest bump rendering it unsafe. It's not like parts can't be ordered cheap from Daisy but bad things can happen in the meantime. Not doubting your abilities old friend, just a friendly heads up.

[dukja]

** Before you do any grinding, you may want to take out the "flat spring on top of the receiver assembly first **

The firing action of the the trigger happens when the "「" block on trigger piece slide around the corner of the rectangular block (the "square" in you quoted post) on sear.  (It will be more clear if you see the picture on my "Credit Card Trigger Mod" thread.)  By rounding the corner that it touches with the trigger's "「" block, you ease up the effort for it to slide "around the corner" and fire.  It is really a trial and error process, but if you take out too much material, there is no way back and you have to buy a new sear (cheap though).

The credit card mod that I proposed (see the independent thread) will be reversible and easy to fine tune.  You might want to check it out.   

[avator]

** Before you do any grinding, you may want to take out the "flat spring on top of the receiver assembly first **

The firing action of the the trigger happens when the "「" block on trigger piece slide around the corner of the rectangular block (the "square" in you quoted post) on sear.  (It will be more clear if you see the picture on my "Credit Card Trigger Mod" thread.)  By rounding the corner that it touches with the trigger's "「" block, you ease up the effort for it to slide "around the corner" and fire.  It is really a trial and error process, but if you take out took much material, there is no way back and you have to buy a new sear (cheap though).

The credit card mod that I proposed (see the independent thread) will be reversible and easy to fine tune.  You might want to check it out.   

Exactly.
However, If you happen across my thread on putting new model 880 guts into the Ted Williams 799 and the 881 you'll see that I DID opt for grinding. I only did this after having some prior trial and error experience and after reading a few years worth of other peoples' posts. The credit card mod is cheap, fast and reversible. It can be adjusted back and forth by using thicker and thinner stock. Grinding is a one shot deal.

[Yng@hrt]

Marty, you would be very surprised to see how many of us old farts are here. I think I might suggest to you that you try a few reversible mods on that trigger before you start grinding. Like the one just before your post with the nib of credit card. If you grind too far one of two things can happen. The gun won't engage the sear or the gun will fire with the slightest bump rendering it unsafe. It's not like parts can't be ordered cheap from Daisy but bad things can happen in the meantime. Not doubting your abilities old friend, just a friendly heads up.

Sound advise from a seasoned Vet. Maybe once I get familiar with the 880's anatomy I can venture into some of those other mods.

Appreciate it Bill.

[Yng@hrt]

The credit card mod that I proposed (see the independent thread) will be reversible and easy to fine tune.  You might want to check it out.   

dukja can you do me a favor & post the link to your thread. New here & still trying to learn how to navigate your site.

Thanks

[zoominx55]

I found the credit card  mod to work well, and is easily reversible, but it makes the safety inoperable.  I didn't like that as my kids use the 880 and I want them to get in the habit of using the safety.

I ended up grinding bit by bit until the trigger was light enough. It took a while and several trial-and-error disassemblies, but the safety still works. 

Somehow I missed the removal of the flat spring as an option. Guess I have to go back in sometime and try that. That flat spring does make it more difficult to assemble properly too, so with it gone it should go back together much easier.