Rws 48 sight-in problem

[Jdunn]

First off the 48 is dead accurate with open sights. I decided to mount my scope on using the rws lock down mount that has a 0.025" of compensation for barrel droop(I don't know what that converse to for inches at 30 yds). I put 3 pellets in one hole but that hole is 3 3/8" down and 1 3/4" to the left from bullseye at 10 yds. If I try to adjust the scope to bullseye I bottom out the scope on elevation and I'm close on windage. Can anyone help me with these problem? I ready don't want to buy 10 different barrel droop compensator scope mounts before I find the right one.

[grobe1458]

I would probably go with adjustable rings, fx, sportsmatch, weaver, and bkl makes them. they aren't cheap but will give you more flexibility.

[David.Soliman]

Seems you need different mounts.

[Roadworthy]

I suggest removing the scope and mount, cleaning everything, and remounting.  Everything could change.

As far as adjustable mounts, Sun is the only brand with which I'm familiar, but they do work and they may be less expensive than the others.

[Bullit]

I used the Diana lock down mount on a 48.  I didn't have success with it holding well.   Then Leapers came out with their droop compensating mounts.  Used them ever since.  You may want to try zeroing at 18-20 yards.  10yds is too close.

[Jdunn]

Yah I know it's too close but it was getting dark and I wanted to make sure it still hit paper. Thanks guy on the brand suggestions. If you could pick one and price wasn't an opinion with comp scope mount would you choice?

[Jdunn]

I just remounted and cleaned everything. 3 shots 5 1/2" down and 1/2" to the left

[Bullit]

Yah I know it's too close but it was getting dark and I wanted to make sure it still hit paper. Thanks guy on the brand suggestions. If you could pick one and price wasn't an opinion with comp scope mount would you choice?

I'd stay, (myself), with what has worked here.  The UTG/Leapers droop mount, and their weaver 4 screw scope rings. 
With my 48s,,,they shot about 1.25" low at 10yds.  They were zeroed at 18-20yds.

[oneied]

Yah I know it's too close but it was getting dark and I wanted to make sure it still hit paper. Thanks guy on the brand suggestions. If you could pick one and price wasn't an opinion with comp scope mount would you choice?

I'd stay, (myself), with what has worked here.  The UTG/Leapers droop mount, and their weaver 4 screw scope rings. 
With my 48s,,,they shot about 1.25" low at 10yds.  They were zeroed at 18-20yds.

+1. I use the same set up on my .22 rws 48 clone. Works very well.  Zeroed at 20 yards

[Geoff]

quick fix, get a pepsi can, cut a strip, wrap it once with electrical tape, put that on the back end of the scope. 

[farazh]

soda can foil works very well as a shim, and diana guns are notorious for barrel droop. I also used soda cans strips cut to size for shimming. A few precautions to take: 1. over-shim and then reduce the number of shims 2. do not over tighten the mount with shims as it may damage the scope tube ( i have done it) 3. any tape is easy to use, but all tapes are flexible and tend to creep out of the mount with use.

Shimming is free of cost and interesting, so try this route before you buy more mounts. in your case i would suggest 5-7 shim strips, small length at the bottom and longer length shims on top, to start with.

cheers

[chuckinohio]

  Optically center your scope.
  Remove the front sight, shroud and liner from the barrel on your 48.
  Remount your scope set up.
  Tweak barrel by bending until point of aim agrees with point of impact, or closely agrees with.
  Reinstall removed components, reverify zero, and fine tune with scope adjustments.


  The RWS lockdown mount works, but the stop screw pins are smaller than the holes for them in the Diana rail.
  I myself, take the pins and grind the small cylindrical end, opposite of the hex key recess,  that is supposed to fit into the holes in the rail until it is within  1/32 of the threads.
  This allows the set screw to fit the hole in the Diana rail with less of a gap. The reduced diameter cylindrical end will allow the mount some degree of movement if it is not very tight on the rail, and by reducing the length of the cylindrical end, the threaded portion will fit deeper into the hole and not have near as much play present.