Tore deeper into the Flying Dragon XS 60C PCP today - not quite done....

[RayK]

Hi all!

I just could not resist.  I tore my 177 XS 60C almost completely apart just now.  I already did the full trigger job and it seems very nice, but I will want to test it out on the bench next time out.  Bummer about this gun is it is far too loud to do any testing at home.  I must drive out in the boonies to shoot it - even for simple testing or shot strings.

All three o-rings on the barrel were nicked, so I'm going to replace all them and maybe the bolt probe o-ring too.  They seem rather old too and had very little stretch left.  Who knows how old this gun really is, but I suspect it is at least 4 or 5 years old because of an inspection paper in the box dated 2010.

Does anyone know the o-ring size for:

barrel OD X3 (close to Metric R07 or SAE 012)
bolt probe (close to Metric R02 or SAE 006)

The three vestigial safety parts seem to be the half-moon, spring, and slotted screw pin, so I plan to remove them unless someone chimes in that one or more of them are critical.  I could not see any use of those parts without the safety.

I'm planning to do the 3 X 113 o-rings for BHB, but it will be interesting to see what happens with no fine adjustment on the velocity.  I suppose I will pretty much get what I get.  I'll be happy with moderate power and decent shot count.  My 177 M-rod is only shooting 13 FPE and I've killed bunches of squirrels out to 50 yards with it already (not to mention smaller pest birds which are a piece of cake with that gun).

I'm also wondering if anyone has experience on where to set the trigger group.  I understand that rearward gives longer throw and higher potential for hammer spring preload (which seems fine for BHB).  Mine still cocks even with the trigger group fully rearward (I already tested it).

So far, I think it is a fun little gun to play with.  It is not even close in quality to the Marauders, but it was only $100 shipped and I think that is a fair and appropriate price for what it is.  However, the barrel is clearly better than the 177 or 22 Marauder barrel in thickness, machining, rifling and accuracy. At face value, it looks more like the 25 caliber Marauder barrel made by Green Mountain.  The  only rough part is the inleede which I plan to smooth out.  The crown and rifling look very good - probably contributing to the good accuracy and pellet un-pickyness.

I've decided to keep it cheap and leave it stock (except for LDC which is necessary), but to do the maximum labor on the tune with BHB.  I'll see what I get when I shoot the first post-tune string early next week, then I may either try shimming the o-rings, or rip them out and go back to classic tune with lower power higher shot count.

By the way, I tried degassing using the technique I've used many times on my Marauders and it did not work.  I read this is the recommended technique too.  I kept the muzzle up, filled until the valve cracked, then stopped, and very slowly bleed the line.  I tried it several times and the air from the tube never came out.  If I had been able to degas, i would have completely torn it down so i could clean and install fresh o-rings inside on the valve and fill cap.

Ray

[ScarletFire186304]

not sure about the bolt but the barrel o-rings are  # 012. 

bob

[Yarp]

I degas mine by shooting them down.

[Kailua]

#006 oring was correct for the bold probe.  Get urethane #113 oring for the fill cap and valve it will last longer when using CO2.

[Ribbonstone]

Will have to test the trigger group, as it is possible to set it far enough back that the sear won't engage 100% of the time.  Does change the stroke slightly, but it's not working in isolation as it also changes striker spring compression. Honestly, it's not much of an issue as the striker system has plenty of "oomph" to operate at 1500psi. So set it so that you can easily replace the metal into the stock and get that  "bit" that goes behind the trigger guard in place without having to fuss-n-cuss it in place.

So far as I can tell, it’s the same “14mm” size as the standard QB 78 barrel (not the 15mm size used on the 78D, 79, and various AR2078’s).  Going to use “14mm” in quotes as they QB78 14mm barrels seem to run fatter than that, more like 14.08-14.17mm.  Am sure this drives the LDC makers crazy. 

TKO does make one specific to the XS60 (it is a fatter version that the skinny one used on Discoveries).

[RayK]

Thanks all for the info!  It makes sense that the air tube o-rings are 113.

I'm not a fan of CO2, so I'll stick with high pressure air and buna o-rings.

I'll have to get an order in to TKO so I can test it indoors.

Thanks again!

Ray

[RayK]

I degas mine by shooting them down.

That occured to me and seems likely the best way to go, but I am not in a location that can handle the shot noise without SWAT showing up.  Wish I had though of it when I was out at Ron's rural goat farm spot.

Ray

[Yarp]

I degas mine by shooting them down.

That occured to me and seems likely the best way to go, but I am not in a location that can handle the shot noise without SWAT showing up.  Wish I had though of it when I was out at Ron's rural goat farm spot.

Ray

Try shooting with the muzzle half-way into a rolled piece of carpet (6 or 7 inch diameter) or a sturdy shoe box opened at both ends......works OK for shooting pellets indoors as well. 

[moorepower]

If you look in the china gate, there is alot more info on the FDPCP rifles than this gate. I think 4 orings may have been used for BHB mod.

[ScarletFire186304]

here's a link for degassing (the FDPCP)   

http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=69204.0

bob

[ScarletFire186304]

If you look in the china gate, there is alot more info on the FDPCP rifles than this gate. I think 4 orings may have been used for BHB mod.

What is the "BHB mod"? 

bob

[RayK]

here's a link for degassing (the FDPCP)   

http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=69204.0

bob

Mike's two suggestions work for sure (shooting down or bumping gun hammer with nail hammer with punch if disassembled, the second also occurred to me, but didn't want to publish on the Internet).  Bleeding with pump/fill hose did not work on my gun and I was very careful to crack and bleed very slowly.

Ray

[RayK]

What is the "BHB mod"?

It is the Bstaley Hammer Buffer modification - some o-rings against the valve face to "dampen" the hammer to flatten out the shot string.

Ray

[RayK]

I finished the rebuild my 177 XS 60C.  All that is left is fine tuning the shot string and trigger, but that will have to wait until I get out to a shooting spot.

The o-ring sizes were as you guys said:  006 for the bolt, 012 for the three barrel o-rings, and 113 for the valve and fill assembly.  The two 113 o-rings were already urethane and in good shape, so I re-lubed and reused those two only and replaced all the others with new o-rings.

I got two M4 allen screws to replace the screws that held the rear open sight and got the 3/16" and 5/16" black plastic plugs to fill the holes left when the safety was removed.  One screws into a barrel flat to help hold it stable and the other screws against the barrel too.  I first snugged these down and it pressed the barrel into the fill assembly ring, so I backed them off and just lightly snugged and now there is a decent gap between air tube and barrel.

I tried 4 113 o-ring BHB, but it would not fire, so I went back to 3 and it fires now.

It never fails the first time you work on a new-to-you gun (or car), you end up doing parts of the job more than once.  I was almost finished and assembling the gun and the front stock screw would not start.  I pulled the stock and could see the hole in the barrel band was off center and I had it backwards.  I had to degas again (this time by dry firing with muzzle well wrapped by a moving blanket), remove the fill plug and swap the barrel band around.

I touched up the scratches with black permanent marker and all the holes have something in them - either a screw or a plug.  It really looks nice now.

Ray

[Ribbonstone]

Post your results from the bstaley o-ring mod. Pretty happy where I am, but i could be tempted away.

Also like the looks of the simple gun.  Do have a tendency to mod stocks and such, but over all find the XS60c PCP to be a pretty decent (If simple) looking gun just the way it is.

[avator]

After removing the trigger group, you can use a flat screwdriver to reach in and fulcrum the hammer forward against the valve pin to degass the gun. You will hear a hiss as the air leaves. Then dry fire the gun to be sure it's empty. If it is , you will be able to unscrew the tube cap by hand. Be sure to only hand tighten it when putting It back on. over tightening will squeeze the seal into the tube.

[RayK]

you can use a flat screwdriver to reach in and fulcrum the hammer forward against the valve pin to degass the gun

Another great idea!  The sound of air escaping out a valve is better than many shots in a row.  I'll keep that one in mind for next time....  I'll have to find a good fulcrum point where I won't damage the receiver or its finish.

Ray

[avator]

You can also just remove the end cap and take the spring out and use a wood dowel to push the hammer forward against the valve pin. I use the screw driver fulcrum and have never damaged anything. I really don't take that much force.

[johnnyfoos]

At first I didn't like the sound of this FD PCP in .22,
To much for the just about out of town area I live in.
But,
The TKO,    WOW !!!!
Sometimes It will sound like hollywood
Psst, then CLANK against the metal hanging targets in the old projection TV
we have in the back yard shooting range, (only 17 yards from front deck or 9 from back deck, so have so hold under about 4-5", sighted in at 50 yards)

[caniborrowsomeammo]

That does it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Just ordered a TKO