1701P trigger frame assby on 2289 and hammer weight ideas

[D14Jeff]

how about a 5/8 bolt with a long shoulder ?



cut the head and threads off and cut a piece or 2 the same length as the 2289 hammer . then smooth out the ends making the front edge beveled to play nice with the sear and a depression in the rear for the spring seat ... then the cocking pin hole ?
maybe even use a yellow #8 bolt ??

Thought bout getting a grade 8 or even a grade 5 shoulder bolt.
I've not tried to drill a hole in one in a long time, but I think I should be OK using cobalt bits.
Thanks for the suggestion.

just want to clarify that this is just a idea i have , i haven't done it myself and don't know of anyone that has .

i was thinking again (get's me in trouble sometimes) .....
rather than drill a hole for the spring to go in , use a drill bit that will fit inside the spring . drill small holes till you get up to size then super glue the top/smooth end of the bit in the hole and cut it to length for a hammer spring guide , then round/taper the end so it moves smoothly in the spring coils . the guide/hole will need to be centered and pretty darn straight though . it'll also add a little more weight to the "hammer" rather than losing it making a hole for the spring seat .

BTW , can anyone suggest how long a hammer "spring guide" should be ?

again just thinking outloud here , but if it's doable it kills 2/3 birds with one stone .

[JMJ in NC]

Here's a copy of a spring guide I found over on CAPOF a long time ago. I made one out of Delrin, but the base was a bit too thick and the total length was a tad too long. This one is meant to sit at fixed end, but could easily sit in the hammer itself.

I'd knock .020" off the overall length to be safe.

JMJ

[D14Jeff]

thanks JMJ
so a hair longer than 5/8 inches

[Rivers3Plinker]

On my third attempt prototyping from the carbon steel. Don't think using a grade8 bolt is worth the difficulty in drilling or sizing compared to mild steel. So far looks to me like the JB weld filled stock weight is a better way to go unless you have a lathe or know someone who does. I've already wasted a lot of time at it.

[QVTom]

Hot and cold rolled steels (1011, 1018) are poor candidates for hardening because they are low carbon, to get a good surface hardness carbon must be added.  Products like Cherry Red and Kasinit add carbon to the surface during process and it's possible to get a good case up to .007" deep with some effort.

Grade 8 bolts will drill easily with standard HSS drills.  The key is the correct rpm, too fast and the bit will heat up and die.  Gr8 bolts are only moderately hard so they make a good choice.

An easy to machine tool steel is 01 and is referred to as drill rod.  Because it has a higher carbon content, it only needs to be heated to cherry red and quenched in oil for good results.  It is inexpensive and readily available most metal or industrial supplies.

Tom

[BillK]

On my third attempt prototyping from the carbon steel. Don't think using a grade8 bolt is worth the difficulty in drilling or sizing compared to mild steel. So far looks to me like the JB weld filled stock weight is a better way to go unless you have a lathe or know someone who does. I've already wasted a lot of time at it.

Ya, you would be shooting by now.

[Rivers3Plinker]

Well not quite. I don't have the trigger frame assby from Crosman yet. Otherwise yeah, I'd be shooting it already.
Parts should arrive today or tomorrow. I've been trying to beat the delivery so I can assemble it with the new striker.

In the interim I have a new idea to at least properly turn down a piece of 5/8 rod I'm going to try today.
If this works, I'll try making one with a section of the Grade 8 bolt.

[Rivers3Plinker]

OK,
Parts arrived yesterday and I must say the Prod trigger setup is pretty interesting. I am still trying to figure it out but I plan to take it apart and polish the trigger body for some added bling. I need to learn how the adjustments work on this thing too. It feels nice and I've figured out how the sear releases but it's very different from a 13xx trigger.

As for my machining adventure I am almost there from two directions.
First of all I have a stock 1322 hammer weight with a second coat of JB weld hardening on it. This is the backup plan.
Second is my 5th attempt on making my own out of steel and I'm almost there!
I finally figured out the best way to make it and if this one has any issues after it's installed, I think I can get it perfect on the 6th try.
I bought a 5mm end mill bit off Amazon and it looks to be the perfect size for the rear pin counter bore. At this point I have made the weight with only a couple minor differences over stock. The OD is .615 which is fine. The length is about .020 short which should be no problem either. It's round enough and smooth enough, but not exactly pretty. I hope to have the pin hole and counter bore done tonight. I have experimented previously with the bit and made an almost perfect counter bore on prototype fail #4.

Also I've learned the Grade 8 bolt material is actually easier to machine than the mild steel, which I did not expect. It cuts cleaner and drills without binding up the drill as easily. I've been using sand paper, files and a hack saw so far. Cutting it with a hack saw does take longer but the case hardening has something to do with that. You can actually see the layer of hardened steel when you cut it.

Prototype #5 was made entirely using a cheap little mini wood lathe. Normally this is used for making pens and and the like. I have a barracuda 4 jaw chuck on headstock and a Jacobs chuck in the tailstock for drilling. Yes it not worthy and it's not made for this but I figured out a way to use it. For starters, the barracuda on the head stock is probably .030 out! Chuck up anything round in it and get a tool near the material and it just bounces. This alone has added challenges to the project.

Anyway, pics coming if successful unless I find them embarrassing because this is not my best work, but it should do the job.

[Rivers3Plinker]

Going with the JB weld option on a stock hammer weight. I just can't control my machining processes accurately enough with the tools at hand to make it worth the effort. I know if I kept at it I'd eventually get one that works but I have better things to do with my time, starting with shooting and ending with some cold beers.

Thread closed now and moving on to assembly after I have the final coat hardened on the weight and put it together.
Can't wait to start shooting it.

Thanks for all comments and replies.