FWB300s front guide rod/disassembly woes...

[daveh]

Hello,

Recently purchased one of the pilkguns project guns, ordered JM spring and seal kit, as seals are no good, and downloaded all I could find on the internet regarding disassembly. Started to breakdown yesterday, went well, first front guide rod came out firmly with a good pull from my needle nose pliers. Second guide rod will not come out   …. I tried several different pliers, locking pliers, Kroil, tapping to try and loosen, heat from a heat gun, trip to the store for different pliers….and after 3 hours this dang gone "pin" will not move….
Any other ideas on how to get this piece out ?? Will I need to “cut” it out ?? If so, any idea where I can get a replacement part (#170131)  
Looking for any help/ideas, please !

Thank you!
Dave

[chuckinohio]

  It sounds silly to ask, but you did remove the small c clip correct?

[chuckinohio]

Send a message to a member here named 'mafatone'.

He says that he has a method for removing the pins that are stubborn.

[daveh]

Yes, I did remove the clips... good question though, I've done similar, lol 
Will try and contact "mafatone" thank you!
Dave

[westtexasrancher]

Looking forward to this info.

[mafatone]

Hey DaveH, This is my post from the Yellow I hope it works for you. It did for me.     What worked for me is to get a quality pair of Vice Grips because the pins are hardened steel and will gouge the grips if not of quality. I sprayed the pins with PB Blaster and let sit overnight on end to let the Blaster seep inside the cavity..Remove "E" clips. Secure the frame in a padded vice or have someone hold the frame down on a towel to stop it from moving. My wife held mine down. Put the grips at the end of the pin. Find a location on the Vice Grip to place a flathead/broadhead screwdriver that won't slide off when struck. Proceed to strike the screwdriver that is placed on the Vice Grips with a hammer in small increments. You have to shock the pins out . Trying to pull them out will just not work in a gun that has never been serviced in some 30+ years. I've been a car mechanic for some 38 years. That's why they make impact guns. It shocks the nut/bolt loose. I came close to sending this out. Who knows how many people have gone through the same thing i did and chose to pay someone to do the work that they were capable of doing? There's something special about rebuilding your own air gun. You take pride in what you're doing and you know it's done right because it's done by you. Especially a 30+ year old virgin like I have. I'll try to post a picture for you guy. Hang tight.

[mafatone]

Hey DaveH. I just took these photos for ya'. The picture is from the Pilkgun rifle that I just rebuilt. This pic is only an example. The pins will move out very slowly. Keep the screwdriver as horizontal as possible, not on a 45 degree angle like I have in the picture. Don't expect it to come out in one shot. As it slowly starts to come out remove the grips to get a deeper bite with the grips. Before you know it, they will be out. Let me know what happens.

[eeler1]

Two comments.  First, soak is a good idea, then DON"T BREAK THAT PIN.  THey are becoming unobtanium these days.  I needed one short time back, and neither Pilkington, Garland, or even FWB would sell me one.  I was getting desperate, thinking I'd have to make one, then found a guy that had one that he was willing to part with.  There are a few still around, but whoever has them generally isn't letting go of them as they are not being made anymore.

The more conventional approach, and with less  potential to bust that pin, is to loosen the sled at the aft end, just pull the plug thingy, make sure you have also removed the pin with the eclips in the middle of the sled, then lift the entire sled and tap it forward.  Basically, the sled  binds up on the pin, and with patience, and possibly many attempts over some period of time, it will move a bit, then you can pry on it with a screwdriver.

Oh, third comment, remember comment 1.

[mafatone]

You aint' breaking that pin or drilling it out. It's hardened steel. I know of a place in Germany that has the sled pins for like $3.00. if you need any.

[chuckinohio]

  I used a dab of Kroil, let it sit for 10 or so, and mine scooched right out using ye olde needle nose pliers. I was thankful that they weren't a bugger to remove.
  Either the rifle had been serviced, or it wasn't exposed to moisture or harsh storage conditions enough to corrode the assembly.

  What's the magic formula for removing the old crusty seal that is stuck to the bottom of the compression tube like super glue, not to mention the crust from the long gone breech seal?

[daveh]

Thanks for all the replys and insights guys, and mafatone for the photos, and received your pm, thank you!!!
I will put more Kroil on it in a little bit, and let it soak over night, and then later tomorrow try the locking pliers / flat screwdriver trick.
Will update once its out, I agree I need to be patient.....I was on the verge of insanity yesterday    lol.

Thanks again, will update in a day or two.

Dave

[mafatone]

Hey, To my above post. My mistake. I said you have to take the sled off first. You can't take off the sled without first removing the pins! Sorry about that DaveH. Didn't mean to drive you more nuts. Anyway, you get the idea. Be patient and think about all that money you're going to save.

[daveh]

No worries mafatone, I knew the sled wouldn't come off first (believe me, I tried yesterday...). My insanity was from pulling on pliers yesterday, with all my might (which obviously wasn't enough lol).  thanks again!

Dave

[daveh]

 
Per instructions from mafatone, had gun standing upright for a couple of days, added a drop of Kroil in 2 spots where the guide rod contacts a couple of times per day. Today, I decided it was time.... Attached my best pliers (with metal teeth) on the end of the rod, really tight, had the wife hold the gun firmly on the table, and lined up a large screwdriver as parallel as possible to the gun. Gave the end of the screw driver a good whack, and holy sh.. -- that pin moved about a 1/8'' -- one more whack and out it came with my pliers !!!   Yes 

Wow, just a few minutes of time, versus 3 hours in vain a few days ago....

Just a couple of items to reiterate, which were noted to me previously in this thread, and from a pm from mafatone:

1. take your time, using Kroil or PB blaster, or similar, with the gun upright, over a couple of days to soak in the areas of contact
2. use good quality locking pliers with teeth, and attach as hard as you can
3. strike the pliers with the screwdriver as parallel as possible to the gun with someone else holding the gun firmly -- giving the rod a good "impact gun" type hit

Many thanks to mafatone, and everyone else who contributed, thank you!

Dave

[mafatone]

The grease they used 30-40 years ago turns into solid if your 300S has never been serviced. That's why the pins need to be "shocked" out. I know you're happy. Now go rebuild that bad boy.