Is this a B3-2?

[Evan]

A friend from work picked this up at a garage sale on his way back from Florida.  I think it is B3-2.  Thought I might try to clean it up a bit for him.

I don't know much about these and would appreciate any info but for starters

Are they worth tuning?
I have read that some of the B3's don't have anti-beartrap mechanisms?
What should I expect in terms of normal velocity?

Thanks in advance.

[lillysdad621]

absolutely worth tuning... look at the kermit airgun club b3 challenge... it will open your eyes to some possibilities... in .177 they shoot mid 600s... in.22 low 500s

[Evan]

Thanks.  Forgot to include that it is a .177 caliber.

[TooJung2Die]

Are they worth tuning?

Absolutely. I have a .177 cal B3-3. I think these guns practically demand tuning before they'll shoot properly most of the time. That's what makes them fun. They're a pre-asembled box of parts waiting to be put together properly.

I have read that some of the B3's don't have anti-beartrap mechanisms?

That's true. Cock it and hold the cocking lever firmly while pulling the trigger. That'll tell you if the anti-beartrap is working. Take off the stock and you'll see if it has one installed.

What should I expect in terms of normal velocity?

Out of the box mine shot 495 fps with 7 grain wadcutters. After a clean up, deburr and lube it was up to 540 fps. After a few more serious mods like a new Tesla piston seal it started to shoot over 650 fps. Some B3 tuners get 700 fps or more.

[Slavia]

Are they worth tuning?  They are probably the very best candidates for tuning.  They are built so crudely that just about anything you do will be rewarded with enhanced performance.  I have three.  Velocity is like TooJung2Die reported - 535 FPS in .177 with Superdomes and the original leather piston seal.

[avator]

Yep, dive into it, your friend will be well rewarded. Do all the normal polishing, deburring and lubing. Polish. lube and lighten the trigger pull a bit. I like the leather piston seal setup. The fixed barrel setup make it quite accurate out to about 20yds. I have a couple in .177 and one in .22. Mine like a variety of pellets but they all have a favorite. They sell at flea markets new for around $35 - $45. I picked my latest one up from a guy at work for $20 and it's exactly the one you have there. Color, sling mounts and removable/adjustable rear sight with the warning label on the stock. it chronied about 490 with CPHP 7.9. Yes, they do have an anti bear trap but, no safety.

[Evan]

Thanks for the replies.

He would like me to go ahead and do what I can to tune it up.  Right now I have about $75 to work with.

What would the recommendations be for a tune kit?  I believe a Tesla piston seal was mentioned.

I will be doing more research but any jumpstarts would be appreciated.  Will need to explore an inexpensive scope as well.

Thanks.

[TooJung2Die]

What would the recommendations be for a tune kit?  I believe a Tesla piston seal was mentioned.

There are no tune kits that I'm aware of. This is a do-it-yourself airgun but there are repair parts available. I would first get it shooting as good as possible with what it has. You'll find plenty to improve that was made sloppy. It probably has a leather piston seal that can use some attention. Adding spacers to the inside of the piston to increase the main spring preload will give you a good velocity bump. The trigger can always use some work, polish the sear surfaces.

After searching the GTA for B3 ideas I checked the old GTA Archive forum and found a lot of information. I made the dovetail mount to fit a Tesla seal to the piston.

[Evan]

Thanks to all for the help so far.

The Kermit Airgun site provided some great information.  Just waiting for the weather to improve a bit before I tear into this too far.

My plan is to chrony and get check the values against what has been provided.
Check for baseline accuracy with a basic scope.  Will look at replacing the seals and spring based on results. 
At a minimum will tighten everything down and clean the barrel.  The stock will be sanded and painted with bed liner.

The exterior of the barrel is a bit rough.  Would be looking for some options here.  Considered just sanding in down, polishing and leaving with a chromed look. 

Will likely cut off the open front sight.

Also wondering if this would be an appropriate mount for a low magnification scope (something simple from leapers/utg?).
https://www.pyramydair.com/product/leapers-accushot-1-pc-mount-w-1-rings-3-8-dovetail?a=805 

Looking forward to getting into this project….

[TooJung2Die]

The exterior of the barrel is a bit rough.  Would be looking for some options here.  Considered just sanding in down, polishing and leaving with a chromed look. 

Also wondering if this would be an appropriate mount for a low magnification scope (something simple from leapers/utg?).

Looking forward to getting into this project….

I cold blued a barrel that was pretty well rusted outside. I sanded it smooth and polished it. Then applied the cold blue to warm metal. It turned out pretty good if I say so myself. I used cold blue to fill all the scratches that came with my B3 when it was new.    Handy stuff to have around.

I use the open sights that came with the gun but I've heard that the scope grooves are very shallow and need to be deepened. These are great project guns. Can't do more harm than they do at the factory. 

[avator]

The Kermit page leaves a few things out. Do some deburring to the cocking slot and polish up the cocking arm shoe that goes into the slot. Instead of moly paste on the spring, use heavy tar. Apply and leave stringy between coils. This will take a lot of twang out of the firing cycle and prolong life to the spring. Put the moly on the ends of the spring so they smoothly rotate where they contact the inside of the piston and the spring guide. De-burr and polish all the stamped cutouts in the piston and apply some moly. I like the leather seals and use them whenever they are good enough. As a matter of fact, I've ordered new ones and keep a few on hand. Bed liner paint gives the stock a real nice synthetic stock look and takes quite a beating. I put a couple coats of satin clear on it. Be sure to give the bed liner paint plenty of time to dry and set up, usually 24 hours. Apply it in thin coats, it's really thick and wants to run it you put it on too heavy all at once.

[Evan]

Avator- Thanks for the additional info!  Not sure how much tear down i will do until I know how well it shoots.  Is this type of gun an exception to the if it ain't broke don't fix it rule?

The Kermit site I believe recommended sanding the existing finish down with 220 just enough to scuff the finish.  Has this been your approach?  Curious what type of clear satin you have used?  I have seen some of your paint jobs and they are great!

I got started on a thread somewhere about reconditioning the leather seals?

[Evan]

Toojung-

I did look at some you-tube videos on the cold blue process.  Definitely an option.  Thought about using the cold blue on relevant parts except the barrel. 

Anyone have any sources for replacing the "handle" piece at the end of the cocking arm?  May also be looking for a aesthetic only LDC to cover where the front sight will be removed.

[TooJung2Die]

Toojung-

I did look at some you-tube videos on the cold blue process.  Definitely an option.  Thought about using the cold blue on relevant parts except the barrel. 

Anyone have any sources for replacing the "handle" piece at the end of the cocking arm?  May also be looking for a aesthetic only LDC to cover where the front sight will be removed.

I've seen everything from a custom turned and knurled aluminum handle to a piece of automotive tubing used in place of the cocking handle. Is yours damaged? Nice looking aesthetic only LDC's have been made from PVC pipe. There's not a lot of aftermarket options for these. They're a do-it-yourself project.

As for the stock... Bedliner makes a tough good looking stock. I went the strip, stain and Tru Oil route.

[avator]

They definitely need some attention, the triggers take two men and a boy to pull unless you smooth them out a bit. I generally sand the stock enough to scuff it and see if there is putty in it, usually there is. These things are normally Beech and I have seen a couple worthy of staining. However, these make great utility guns to toss behind the seat or in the trunk and I like to make the finish tuff. I just use clear satin spray off the shelf at Walmart, nothing special. Altho mine have proven to be great little shooters, I try to keep in mind that I'm just putting lipstick on a $20 pig. More often than not, the clip on the barrel to lock in the cocking arm handle with it's sharp edges becomes the culprit. If it becomes loose and moves, it cuts into the plastic handle. De-burr it and keep it tight. I've even put electric tape on the clip. Somewhere here I've read what to use to revive or prep the leather seals but, I can't think of it right now. New ones come hard with some kind of coating. I rub that off with a scratch pad and soak the seal in 30w motor oil for a bit then work it to soften it up. Then Work it more with a paper towel to extract as much oil as I can. Again, it's a $20 gun. An oil stone for sharpening pocket knives works well to polish all contact and slip points in the trigger then apply thin moly. Moly the cocking linkage and pivot screw. There are a ton of things you can do, it just depends on how far you want to go. I think the most important thing is clean that barrel thouroghly. They pack a ton of gunk in there and the amount of swarf is measurable. Look up Mike Mellick's method of barrel cleaning in the Flying Dragon FD-PCP gate. We use WD40, soft scrub stove cleaner and alcohol.

[Slavia]

I would start ouit with Tru Oil.  If it doesn't turn out, you have a wonderful smooth, sealed base for paint.

[Ghosth]

They just delivered the pair of B3-1's I ordered last week. Reading all the threads I was expecting a pile of junk.
Now so far I have only opened and cleaned up one. But that one looks and shoots like a champ!

Sure I can see where there is room for tinkering, but I think I'm just going to shoot this one for a while.
Less than 10 rounds through it and I had a 3 shot group you could cover with a dime and change left over.

Easier than pumping my Sheridan and seems to hit hard!

Call me happy with a low cost investment, and prepared, as I have a repair kit waiting in the wings when its needed.

[lefteyeshot]

I replaced the missing rubber handle on two old B-3's with 4" pieces of rubber tubing from Auto Zone. 7/8" if I remember right. Had to use a little hand lotion to lube it and a mallet for the last inch or so. Works good, looks different, barrel clip fits around it ok. Might have to move the barrel clip a little.

I've got some new B-3's, so when I rebuild an old one that's ruff, rusty, pitted, blueing about gone. I clean it off best I can with some oil and a scouring pad or steel wool and spray paint receiver, barrel, cocking lever and all with pick up bed liner. After I sand the stock down to bare wood I use stain with the polyurethane already mixed in( I like a real light color varnish). When it's dry it's a little ruff and I lightly rub it with light steel wool and it smooths out nice. Just an idea, that's what I do.

Avatar, found those B3-3's w/ black plastic stocks we talked about awhile back. Ordered one, only had .22. Modern tru glo fiber optic sights, trigger safety, lever clips into bottom of front sight assembly. If the sites not an old defunct one maybe the gun will come. $65 w/ UPS ground. Got a conf. #.
Later, Tim

[avator]

Avatar, found those B3-3's w/ black plastic stocks we talked about awhile back. Ordered one, only had .22. Modern tru glo fiber optic sights, trigger safety, lever clips into bottom of front sight assembly. If the sites not an old defunct one maybe the gun will come. $65 w/ UPS ground. Got a conf. #.
Later, Tim

Send pics when you get it.

[jimdaero]

here is a link for  rebuilding.
http://webpages.charter.net/rs_enterprises/guns/RSE%20-%20B-3%20tuning%20guide.pdf
You can buy parts for these at @#$%^.com