Rebuilding/upgrading my XL 1100, requesting a few pointers.

[Steeb86]

Well I've toe down my XL, I have my seals, moly and assorted lubes, some steel wool for the compression tube, I've already debuted every sharp edge that I could find( my philosophy is that if I can move my hands across it and it can snag my skin then it's sharp enough to cut my seals) I used a good set of needle files from X-acto with interchangeable heads, I cleaned all my parts with goo gone and have been air drying everything for about three days now.  The only real concern I have is just how much I should do to my compression tube as far as honing/crosshatching.  Also once I begin lubing should I lube my chamber with the superlube like is recommended in the lubing tutorial in the library?

Steeb.

[Steeb86]

Nothing, nothing at all?  I'd really like the tiny bit of advice I'm asking for, it isn't much.

[Roadworthy]

The honing of the compression tube is to remove rough spots.  The crosshatching will hold oil.  Once you put oil into the tube you wipe it all back out.  This leaves a minimal amount of oil in the shallow scratches.  Now wipe it out again.  If I understand what I've read (and I may not), a microscopic amount of oil will "weep" back out of these grooves when you fire the gun.  This will detonate and add a little bit of power.  If it still smokes after twenty or thirty shots you left too much lube in the grooves.

Bottom line - there is a tiny bit of combustion occurring due to residual oil trapped in the compression tube.  I hope that helps.

[Steeb86]

That does help, I've just been told not to do any oiling of the chamber at all as well, I'm really just looking for better clarification

[Roadworthy]

Oil in the chamber will detonate.  If you oil it be sure to wipe it all out as best you can.  You don't really NEED to oil it, the gun works without it.  I'm saying if you feel compelled to oil it be sure to wipe out every last bit you can.  It WILL detonate and it can be harmful to the chamber and the seal.

Put a small amount of moly lube at the trailing edge of the seal.  That's all that's really required.

[OleTomCat]

When tuning a gun, I personally do not use combustible lubes, I hone and deburr the tube, clean and degrease the old seal and piston and use it to swab the tube with PTFE based grease then wipe excess, then replace the seal put a light film around the trailing edge of the seal and the base of the piston.  I do not use moly paste or tar inside the tube as it will eventually work it's way in front of the seal.  I polish the ends of the spring and apply some PTFE to them as well.  Reassemble and shoot...

[JR]

When I tore into my XL I didn't do a whole lot other than basic stuff you would really do to most others. When re-installing the piston, roll the piston up in something like the sides of a pop can or thin water bottle and insert it past the threads on the tube end to protect the seal. The rolled up tube around it is a sleeve to get it past the threads,  when it's past the threads pull the sleeve out. De-burr everything and anything, piston edges, cocking slot edges, trigger slot, pin holes, etc. De-burring does two things, removes sharp edges so you are less likely to damage a new seal. It also helps with parts dragging against each other.

I de-burred everything and buffed the chamber with a flapper wheel with 400 grit, I buffed the piston with 800 grit.  I also put a taper on the transfer port inside the chamber, so a cut away looks like this \  /   instead of factory   | |  I just think it helps funnel the air out.

I ball burnished my piston in moly powder and I used Krytox on my piston seal.

[Steeb86]

I just finished my tune, the only thin I'm waiting on is genes washers and bushings, I'll open her back up when they arrive.  I crosshatched the tube with 400(can be obtained at auto parts stores easily). Moly on the piston at front and back, I felt I had used too much but I guess I didn't because I noticed no die selling or anything.  I put in my GTX trigger and loctited every thread on my way out.  Except my end cap I put plumbing thread tape on that.  I removed my shroud to check the crown, I lucked up and got a good one. Loctite on the shroud threads too.   Cleaned my barrel spotless, then I pit some rounds through and got her seasoned and within about 10 shots she was loving my artillery hold and stacking pellets.  Once my new master chrony gets here I'll be posting my post tune findings

Steeb!

[OleTomCat]

I think Gene has stopped selling the barrel and NP bushings, check out his website to be sure...

[Steeb86]

He has, but I and maybe a couple of others got orders in right before he posted that and he has said that he would get out his last shipments as soon as he could(he was under the weather with sinuses and such).  Huge relief to me because, I was worried I wouldnt be able to get this XL to where I wanted. 

I think when the kits get here I will be making a video on what I did so that it illustrates what I did and maybe I could get some more pointers and such for when I get more guns.  I  haven't decided yet.

Steeb.