$40 reman 2100

[plinker99]

     Ouch my head hurts!!  Bart your animation is right on!!  That's more math there than I've done in the past 10 years, maybe even longer.  I've seen the thread at capof too.  It's good but still a lot to figure out.
      I've got to go relax now & try to add a wiper to the stuffed piston.

[K.O.]

I  just remembered something that might be causing your pellets getting stuck problem  CW and it is a common problem with the 2100b

model , the rear sight screws are to long causing the straw barrel to bow.  Mine had this problem and even after I shortened the screws it still


wanted to bow. I made half inch nylon spacers with one wrap of duct tape for barrel stabilizers and that fixed the problem. Since the copper

pellets have very little give in them they would be the ones to stick the most...

just an idea...   

[plinker99]

     Just an update on the wiper for the stuffed piston.  I had the idea of wrapping some string to make the wiper.  Man I hate it when I cannot find things that I know I have somewhere.  After searching & gave up, I found some that is OK for now.  I'll see how it works out.
      Another problem came up. I had put in a sstube for the pump pivot & found that it's bent.  So I put back the original roll pin & there seems to be less head space.  The pump arm really locks up like it should.  I need to chrony it again.
      Has anyone figured out a pump arm pivot pin for the 2100??  It needs to have a hole through it for the barrel clamp.

Thanks,
Plinker99

[K.O.]

Since mine does not need any of the fru-fru  stuff I am using a 7/32 drill bit fits perfect...

Since the bolt and nut will hold it in place you can reduce the O.D. of the stock roll pin to a easier press fit IMO...

[plinker99]

   here's a picture of the stuffed piston with wiper.  the piston is stuffed with wire hangers cut to length, 3 per section.  the wiper is some string i found.  i also wrapped 2 turns of the string behind the cup to shim it tighter.  some folks use an o-ring there.

   K.O.  i didn't know what "the fru-fru stuff" was, but i honed the pin for an easier fit.  thanks for the idea.

   here's some chrony shots after i changed the pump pin back to the original & added the oil wiper.  i'm sure the gains is from the pin since the previous one was bent about .012".  the numbers with the / is 1st/2nd shots with retained air.  i had trimmed the hammer spring to ease the cocking pull.  i'll put in the replacement one when i get it.  it's strange the the cocking pull is much easier after all these shots.
   
      Before.                   After stuffing        after wiper & pin
1 - 298.3 & 293.0                                       293.2
2 - 428.7 & 425.9                                       431.9
3 - 488.0 & 503.1.       531.1 & 530.7        520.4 & 519.2 - these was the first shots.  later i got 540.
4 - 549.0 & 550.2
5 - 579.5 & 580.7.       618.3 & 628.1        648.1 & 651.5
6 - 609.3 & 606.7
7 - 624.1 & 623.1.       698.2 & 692.3        722.2 & 716.4
8 - 626.0 & 636.7
9 - 637.1 & 636.3
10 - 644.3 & 648.0.      739.7 & 738.5        778.5 & 761.3/52.59
11 -                                                              772.1/245.7
15 - 669.0 & 659.0.      758.8                     762.0/491.6
18 -                               770.9                     769.1/601.0
19 -                               770.3
20 - 675.1 & 675.9.     503.?/137.5           774.8/565.0

  i guess that's it for now.  i'll start a new thread when i get the parts i ordered for the conversion to .22cal.

  thanks to all for the info & ideas.  now to do some math.

plinker99

[K.O.]

fru fru is pretty it up stuff, trim, which is the barrel band on the 2100 and actually holds the barrel shroud in place on the 2100 I will be using


a 2289 barrel band it looks just big enough to drill out to 9/16 for the barrel.

it looks like you might have broke 800 at 15 pumps with enough spring...

[K.O.]

Since you have pumped past 10 pumps you might want to consider some slight increase in valve volume?

[plinker99]

K.O.    these chrony numbers is just for me to know that the power plant is in good shape for my conversion to .22 cal. When I get the parts.  It might also give me an idea of what to expect in terms of fps after the conversion is done,  if I can get the math figured out. 
       I only shoot 10 yds. Or 12 yds Max I really don't need all the extra power.  But it's good to know that it is there if needed.  Pumping over 7 times is going to wear me out really quick.  10 is probably going to be a rare occasion.  As it is I usually shoot with 3 pumps @ 535 fPS.
    1 more thing about the pump cup, the string I put to shim the cup was squeezing the sides of the cup so I removed it.  It's strange that it was after I shot the chrony numbers & took it apart to hone the pivot pin & take the picture.

    I don't think I'll need more valve volume.  Thanks for the suggestion.  I'll keep it in mind just in case.

[K.O.]

My gut says (in other words a W.A.G.) 640   or so at 10 pumps as a .22 with 14.3s...

when I first put my 1377 together I tried putting an oring  behind the cup and it did the same thing I even thinned it a bit, but no joy.

So I took a blade from a box cutter and cut one of the foam 953 wipers lengthwise and it worked.

My 1322 it had the pump cup shimmed out more and I did not have to thin the wiper.

[plinker99]

     I  got my parts today.  Looks like the mod to .22 project will be delayed. 
1) I goofed & didn't order the barrel support. Actually I wrote a wrong number & got 2 sets of springs for the cocking knob.
2) BBB was right.  A lathe would be the way to do this right.  The mrod barrel is 7/16" od, the barrel support hole is 5/16"id. I may try using a, what I read somewhere, redneck lathe.  Drill & file to turn the breech end to fit the support.
   Does anyone know of a soda straw barrel in .22cal?  I should have asked first.  Oh well live & learn. 

Anyway it won't be a total loss as I can put it on my 2289 & make it rifle.  I just hate to have to pump it more than 7 times to get a good shot.

More later.

[DavidS]

Thank you for this information.   Now I want the 2100 as my high end MSP.

It seems good enough in potential that I do not want a Webley Rebel any more, the 2100 will do the job.

[moorepower]

Just a tidbit for those keeping .177, the barrel port is at 75% of bore from the factory, but the barrel support needs opened up .012 to match the barrel port.