XS60C PCP Repeater project

[stalwart]

As I refine this little endeavor, some things have become clearer.

Many of the receivers I have been setting aside for through tube use, due to flaws near the valve o-ring, are actually quite fixable with a careful reaming. From now on, all 1.5K guns sent for work will be treated as needed... as well as having the tube threads chased with a good tap.

For the 1.5K single shot guys, I will be keeping a small pile of chased and reamed receivers in stock (for exchange or outright sale). If you love your gun, but the darn thing won't hold air at the valve ring... holler. We can deal with it. I ream only until that area at the ring is round and smooth... and will also powder coat to taste, if desired.

All prices quoted to date will be effective until Oct. 7.

What we in CA call "winter" is fast approaching, and I'm not only almost ready for it... I'm looking forward to it (thanks to you guys and GTA!) in ways I haven't since I was a kid waxing my sled runners. We're gonna have some fun... 

[stalwart]

UPS came today, brought me this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DuraVent-DVL-6-in-x-48-in-Double-Wall-Chimney-Stove-Pipe-in-Black-6DVL-48/202269780?quantity=1

 I've been waiting nearly 2 months for my "new" oven. I finally gave up on the guy, and came up with this: I'm going to put a standard 6" burner (120V) in the bottom, on a decent base... fill the gap between the pipes with vermiculite... build a cradle for holding barrels and Bobcats that drops in.... and make a lid with the temp sensor in it. I already built the digital controller... plugs into my ovens, and works great.

The inner pipe is stainless... cost me $91 shipped. It will hold 3 Bobcats, or about 6 barrels. If I ever need more than 42" of length, I just add another pipe. Very energy efficient (no wasted space), and roughly $125 a copy.

Back on track here... I'll get this thing running asap, and have some drop-in stuff ready in time for Christmas. 

[RMM]

UPS came today, brought me this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DuraVent-DVL-6-in-x-48-in-Double-Wall-Chimney-Stove-Pipe-in-Black-6DVL-48/202269780?quantity=1

 I've been waiting nearly 2 months for my "new" oven. I finally gave up on the guy, and came up with this: I'm going to put a standard 6" burner (120V) in the bottom, on a decent base... fill the gap between the pipes with vermiculite... build a cradle for holding barrels and Bobcats that drops in.... and make a lid with the temp sensor in it. I already built the digital controller... plugs into my ovens, and works great.

The inner pipe is stainless... cost me $91 shipped. It will hold 3 Bobcats, or about 6 barrels. If I ever need more than 42" of length, I just add another pipe. Very energy efficient (no wasted space), and roughly $125 a copy.

Back on track here... I'll get this thing running asap, and have some drop-in stuff ready in time for Christmas. 

Is there any limit to your creativity??   I hope not. 

[stalwart]

I honestly don't know, Mike. It looks like unless I can arrange 40 hr days, or get a crew of workshop elves (tiny hands... zero knowledge of Federal labor laws), I may never get a chance to find out. Meanwhile, my pile of amateurish drawings and scribbled spec sheets continues to grow.

 

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Elite-Cuisine-Single-Burner-Hot-Plate/8467243  Perfect sized, stout element and just enough high temp wire inside to get it done. 750 watt... more than enough power.

Got the element mounted, the base is next. Leaning toward molded concrete, to get the CoG down so I can keep the footprint smaller.

I'm delighted with the design, but quite disappointed with how long it took me to come up with it. This ain't Rocket Science...

[RHytonen]

@least you're lucky with the form factor - think how hard an oven for kart frames is gonna be.
It can't even be flat and thin, b/c of seat and steering hoops.
But I think discarded electric stoves will be my friends as to heating coils.
I'm warming up by devising a rust electrolysis tank - which CAN be temporary and shallow,
as rust removal precedes welding on (usually, replacing) those hoops.

Airgun-wise, barrel hunting is a bear....
need .25cal (or even .300)choked match, about 36"+... for under $200.
I did manage to score a backup .22 (microgroove bullet, but only 21," chamber already removed)
for $20 -shipping included.

Rod

[RMM]

I honestly don't know, Mike. It looks like unless I can arrange 40 hr days, or get a crew of workshop elves (tiny hands... zero knowledge of Federal labor laws), I may never get a chance to find out. Meanwhile, my pile of amateurish drawings and scribbled spec sheets continues to grow.

 

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Elite-Cuisine-Single-Burner-Hot-Plate/8467243  Perfect sized, stout element and just enough high temp wire inside to get it done. 750 watt... more than enough power.

Got the element mounted, the base is next. Leaning toward molded concrete, to get the CoG down so I can keep the footprint smaller.

I'm delighted with the design, but quite disappointed with how long it took me to come up with it. This ain't Rocket Science...

From past memory there are refractory materials (EPA approved) that mixes with water to pour or refractory material that can be carved to make a lid..  Price and availability I don't know but I'm a lot like you: "Necessity is the mother of invention." 

Keep on scribblin an a drawin your doin GREAT!. 

[stalwart]

Thanks, my friend!

I am working on molds for both the base, and lid. The lid will be cast from vermiculite and concrete at a 5:1 ratio. I changed my mind and will make it like a pot lid, and put the sensor in the body. To allow the oven to be easily extended, I have to have either the base or lid end left alone.. and it looks like the base end of the tube makes more sense to mod than the lid end.

Years ago, I experimented with soundproof concrete speaker boxes (low freq). It was a ton of fun, in a "mud pie" kind of way... I'm looking forward to this.

[stalwart]

For anyone thinking about building a coating system.... it's easy.

Ebayed in the relay (SSR), the controller and the sensor... the rest is salvage. The box is an old PC power supply, painted with the dregs left in 2 spray cans. The switch now defeats the 5VDC (old phone charger), which kills the relay and the fan... allowing passive monitoring.

Built this 2 yrs ago, and have been hammering it since... works great:

[StevenG]

If you need 5VDC why not get it from the PSU instead of a phone charger? Or did I misunderstand?

[stalwart]

I used a dead PSU for the box, fan and switch only. As I only needed 120VAC and +5VDC.. and nearly all the room inside.. I went for the smallest DC source I could come up with, out of the junk pile.

The brain runs pretty cool, but the SSR can get quite warm when asked to switch real amperage. It needs the fan, and some room to breath.

[StevenG]

Oh, that makes sense.
I thought you were using the PSU as is.

[stalwart]

Just pulled from the base mold. 3.5" thick, straight concrete with channel through bottom for wiring. Probably gained over 35#... quite steady now.

Poured a slug to test 5:1 ratio for strength, but (predictably) it's nowhere near set yet.

[StevenG]

Not sure you would want it, but if you have concerns about your SSR overheating I have access to plenty of heatsinks of various sizes.

[stalwart]

This rig runs cool enough (25A SSR), but I plan to build a controller next year for 240V. It will need 2 relays, and I intend to pump a lot more amps through it. It will need sinks... I'll holler. Thanks, Steve.

The 5:1 mix is still not anywhere near set. I'm wondering if I got bad advice on that ratio? I'm going to pour a few slugs from smaller ratios, if this thing doesn't hurry up. It's only an experiment for the lid... I may get tired of the messes, and go for something out of metal.

[stalwart]

Been turning everything in sight... and among the bits are these streamlined bulk caps. I'm mounting genuine Ninja fittings and valves, and will set them up for CO2 cartridges on request.

Next: custom caps with ports for gauges, etc...

[stalwart]

The customer wanted close fit of the retainer (with heavier ridge), 3 ports, and enough tail to put an o-ring past the threaded portion of the tube. This is what I came up with:

[rsterne]

Very nice.... Retained by the standard "nut"?

Bob

[stalwart]

Thanks, Bob!   

Yup... FDPCP.

[stalwart]

Had to check the fits..

[avator]

Just a one off?