XS60C PCP Repeater project

[RMM]

Didn't rsterne have problem with a slow lead from these grooves and fixed it in some way???

One poster said they used coats of nail polish...

I'm eventually going through tube, but will experiment on this receiver with paints, DIY Al powder-filled CA glues, or epoxy.

Rod

My preferences in epoxies are Devcon and JB Weld for such fixes.

I'm guessing it will have to "flow" a little more than that..
Viscosity will be everything.

I have found both to be self leveling as I have used both to bed rifles. 

[Kailua]

I experimented with the nail polish on one receiver but got a better flat finish using Duplicolor high heat engine rattle can spray paint with ceramic.  I like this paint because it dries well.  I had masked the face of the hammer block then installed it then shot a heavy coat where the machine mark is then lied the receiver flat so the paint would even out to avoid runs.  Applied another coat after first coat dried and must say it looked pretty good covering the machine marks.  Forgot to mention I did mask of the threads for the air tube also.

[RHytonen]

I experimented with the nail polish on one receiver but got a better flat finish using Duplicolor high heat engine rattle can spray paint with ceramic.  I like this paint because it dries well.  I had masked the face of the hammer block then installed it then shot a heavy coat where the machine mark is then lied the receiver flat so the paint would even out to avoid runs.  Applied another coat after first coat dried and must say it looked pretty good covering the machine marks.  Forgot to mention I did mask of the threads for the air tube also.

Thanks! -"with ceramic"- sounds promising, I'll be trying this first.
A perfect example of why I put up with a somewhat rocky misunderstanding-ridden start with GTA.
I now count this forum as one of my blessings.
(a daily process that doctors have prescribed as part of my surgery recovery..)

Rod

[stalwart]

I experimented with the nail polish on one receiver but got a better flat finish using Duplicolor high heat engine rattle can spray paint with ceramic.  I like this paint because it dries well.  I had masked the face of the hammer block then installed it then shot a heavy coat where the machine mark is then lied the receiver flat so the paint would even out to avoid runs.  Applied another coat after first coat dried and must say it looked pretty good covering the machine marks.  Forgot to mention I did mask of the threads for the air tube also.

I have used quite a bit of this on other things, and can vouch for it's ability to nicely fill. Good stuff... good idea.

[stalwart]

Guys, given that these make a good gun at only 1.5K... would it be worth it to produce a receiver that is sleeved as well as incorporates a back up lip for the screw in tube's seal?

Also, who makes a good pump action gun?

[RHytonen]

Guys, given that these make a good gun at only 1.5K... would it be worth it to produce a receiver that is sleeved as well as incorporates a back up lip for the screw in tube's seal?

I vote "YES" - continuing a disturbingly complete agreement with the rest of your ideas!
We need to talk...

Rod

[RMM]

Guys, given that these make a good gun at only 1.5K... would it be worth it to produce a receiver that is sleeved as well as incorporates a back up lip for the screw in tube's seal?

Also, who makes a good pump action gun?

I for one have seen the galling of the aluminum receiver and vote yes to a sleeve.  Not only will the sleeve help in galling, when polished it will facilitate a better platform for the lubricity of your Teflon coated striker.

As far as the lip for the screw in sleeve I've seen not problem with the lip in my receiver. 

Keep up the good work. 

[rsterne]

I think what stalwart is referring to with the "lip" idea is to retain the tube seal which can pop out if the tube is overtightened.... I made an insert to try and cure that problem I mine.... The tube can be tightened much tighter without the seal popping out of place, but unfortunately the slow leak persists.... Once down to about 500 psi it basically stops....

Bob

[RMM]

I think what stalwart is referring to with the "lip" idea is to retain the tube seal which can pop out if the tube is overtightened.... I made an insert to try and cure that problem I mine.... The tube can be tightened much tighter without the seal popping out of place, but unfortunately the slow leak persists.... Once down to about 500 psi it basically stops....

Bob

  Now I see.  Thanks.

[RHytonen]

I think what stalwart is referring to with the "lip" idea is to retain the tube seal which can pop out if the tube is overtightened.... I made an insert to try and cure that problem I mine.... The tube can be tightened much tighter without the seal popping out of place, but unfortunately the slow leak persists.... Once down to about 500 psi it basically stops....

Bob

Have all of the usual indicators been tried - i.e., condom, talc, soap bubble?

Rod

[RMM]

I think what stalwart is referring to with the "lip" idea is to retain the tube seal which can pop out if the tube is overtightened.... I made an insert to try and cure that problem I mine.... The tube can be tightened much tighter without the seal popping out of place, but unfortunately the slow leak persists.... Once down to about 500 psi it basically stops....

Bob

Have all of the usual indicators been tried - i.e., condom, talc, soap bubble?

Rod

For me?  Only when it itches.       

[RHytonen]

I finally got some GEN1 parts today!!
How many times do we need to say it, but Mike Melick is surely the best businessman in America- for his customer service alone! (then there's that tuning expertise....awesome.)

The G1 receiver really IS different, has a little ball bearing right where the GII's bolt galled unacceptably, and although I probably won't be touching it in order for Eric's magic to have a pristine platform, the arrival of the parts for the GENII receiver I butchered (but not TOO bad I hope) to go plastic-free, will be an inspiration to continue beyond sealing up the capscrew heads into the GII receiver and also finish the experimental QB valve I'm modding. An 8mm capscrew countersink is coming, to bury the back of the QB valve into the QB steel "anvil"- to cautiously get the spacing right for its mounting screw, and so it'll trap the valve body's back Oring(-s?.) Then I can bore out the 8mm (.315")pilot hole to 3/8(.375") for the rear-relocated return spring, cut off half the valve's front threads and most of the spurious Al piercer-and-(formerly front)spring mount, thread the valve stem for a nut/washer to hold the spring in back, and cut down a lot of the poppet's front sides into a blunt cone. I'll be making washers to hold the counterbored-in(FD style) valve stem's rear O-ring(another -tiny- counterbore to buy,) by slicing the GII's spurious plastic anvil. If I trust the tools will do it, I may try to cheat a little more intake area in the throat and on the stem. My measurements, and the history of others (loving some GTA,) show it's worth it, even in tiny amounts of flow added to the valve's throat, still the bottleneck. The next step would be to try a whole new (much bigger-flowing and simpler) valve cylinder with the inset thick washer-like PEEK seal, and steel(? I'd prefer titanium...) golf-tee(or 4stroke IC motor valve)-like poppet. That pretty much exhausts the new versions I've read about in these forums.
It'll be fun to compare their performance.

With an X-Y vise on its way, I may even try to run, "as is," the old Walker-Turner DP (I was meaning to recondition before my back went out,)cautiously using it as a mill, to get a straighter shot at those short axial O-ring-material grooves I'm putting on either side of the (valve's) exhaust port so the screw heads won't leak.

(shhhh.... don't tell the wife or the doctors... those WT parts are ALL heavy as ^&*().
I DO have a winch on an overhead track one reason I lobbied heavily 7 years ago for this retirement house with the old welder's garage.

Think I'll give it a few more days weeks (saw the doc Friday) first though,
before I try to heft or even manipulate that heavy iron..
THREE doc visits this week produced disappointing results:
Newest assessment says "not even lawnmowing for another month, minimum."
Working on parts for the pump automation.
Rod

[stalwart]

Teflon bearing powder coat doesn't come in anything but high gloss... but I figured out how to give it a decent matte finish (2 step). Can now do choice of gloss, matte, or textured.

I really like the way this looks, and it shows no prints.

I'll get this all figured out... eventually.

 
.

[rsterne]

Looks really nice....

Bob

[stalwart]

Thank you, sir!

[RMM]

Teflon bearing powder coat doesn't come in anything but high gloss... but I figured out how to give it a decent matte finish (2 step). Can now do choice of gloss, matte, or textured.

I really like the way this looks, and it shows no prints.

I'll get this all figured out... eventually.

 
.

That looks real good! 

[stalwart]

Thanks, Mike.

I am pretty happy with this stuff now. Durable, practically sheds dirt, and within a few cycles... slick as it gets. Could end up SOP here.

[StevenG]

Now mike has to get more gen 1s, I need a spare to send off for this.
Looks amazing.

[avator]

Thanks, Mike.

I am pretty happy with this stuff now. Durable, practically sheds dirt, and within a few cycles... slick as it gets. Could end up SOP here.

You just keep raising that bar a little higher and higher don't ya Eric?

Looks awesome.

[stalwart]

Steve... I hope he gets a trainload of these things. If I was talented enough already to build the gun that I know these can be... I would, and it would be clearer why I am so committed here.

Thanks, Bill. I'm sure trying! Sometimes, it's like a ratchet in a tight space... as long as I can get a click or two, I'll keep twistin'.