Author Topic: Need Help disassembling mystery trigger on beeman silver kodiak (Read 11790 times))

jmcgall1 · « **on:** January 04, 2014, 12:33:52 PM »

Hey guys,

I would like to disassemble the trigger assembly on my Beeman Silver Kodiak Sportsman RS2 series spring airgun. (Model #10774)

No it is not an RS1 RS2 or possibly rs3.. not sure about the RS3 personally but through other threads it seems apparent that nobody knows what we have here.

So I'm a rookie in that this is the first springer I've worked on, but I am mechanically inclined. I just don't want to take something out that I can't personally put back in and without a schematic or much experience on air rifles (I'm not sure with what I'm dealing with internally.)

I love this gun and the only thing it needs at this point is trigger refinement, and because it only cost me $100 I figure why not try?

So the first pic should be the gun laying flat facing right. It is a sportsman series beeman so it should be similar to any of the other dual caliber air rifles (not the trigger components but the chamber assembly) So i'd assume I can remove the pins labelled 1, 2 and 3 or maybe just 2 and 3 to remove the trigger assembly, but does the spring need to be compressed before doing this? or can i simply leave the assembly attached to the gun? My thinking is that it would be much easier to work on when removed from the rifle.

Screw #4 is simply the weight adjustment with a coil spring not too much going on here, although it looks like there is a wire spring (similar to #10 in the second picture) putting additional tension internally.

The c clips all look standard, or jesus clips (as my dad refers to them... you take them off and the fly across the room and you say Jesus!)

#6 is a roll pin no troubles there.. i can sort of see it internally but do not see anything attached to it... maybe another spring anchor..

pin #7 looks like it might be a rotation axis for the linkage that connects to the piston and the main sear. Not sure if what i just typed made sense to you guys I'm working on part terminology. (it's the thing that connects that other ting... you know?)

pin #8 is the pivot point for the trigger

and pin #9 holds the safety and the main sear which is protruding out just below the cocking linkage.

#10 is what I call a wire spring.

alright any insight is appreciated.

jmcgall1 · « **Reply #1 on:** January 04, 2014, 12:35:28 PM »

more pics

jmcgall1 · « **Reply #2 on:** January 04, 2014, 12:37:52 PM »

better view of the sear

robert w · « **Reply #3 on:** January 04, 2014, 04:18:37 PM »

first thing the spring needs to be compressed n you have to make a tool. I used a fender washer 1 1/2 across. I drilled 4 holes 3/16 th" exactly 3/4 " apart. then I got 4 3/16th bolts 3" long and ran them through the holes n put the nuts on very snug. that is cause you cant push on the trigger and you cant put it back in without it. the pins should be driven out 1 way . they have a burr on 1 end and must be driven out burr end first. after you get it apart take lots of photos. then carefully take the e clips off 1 side of the pins and remove all parts laying them out in order as you remove them. I have placed them in place on the side of the trigger housing and stuck the pins back in so you can study how it works. and you see all the places that need a fine polish job. I use a fine Arkansas stone n work slowly. run your thumb nail on the area frequently to check for smoothness quit when its smooth even if you see imperfections . as long as its smooth is all you need. its easy to cut too much off and get a dangerous trigger. then whem satisfied with your finish I use a qtip n moly grease and lube the parts lightly. while inside it the trigger is loose ,lots of side play make some shims to fit the trigger pin. and try your best to shim both sides up equil not all on 1 side. put her back together n try her out

jmcgall1 · « **Reply #4 on:** January 04, 2014, 04:29:23 PM »

yeah i've spent all day lookin it over and figured the spring is under tension when not cocked and needs to be compressed before the three pins in the back can be removed. That's cool though because that is another project i wanted to learn how to do as well and this will allow me to polish the piston if needed or replace seals. It appears to still have a lot of factory grease in it and hopefully this will increase the stability and longevity of the rifle. Thanks man. I'll check for feeds on spring compressors a visual would help if you've already posted pics i can probably find them if not an image would be helpful.

robert w · « **Reply #5 on:** January 04, 2014, 04:55:06 PM »

the very last pin has to come out before you do anything. all it does is hold the plastic cap in and the nut the rear mounting screw goes into. drive it out n remove the plug. its clear how the tool works I made make sure when you drive the pin out that you go the right way . it will go part the way if on the wrong side. if that happens drive it out the other way and remember the side you drove it out from. all 3 should go out the same side

jmcgall1 · « **Reply #6 on:** January 04, 2014, 05:07:49 PM »

so from my understanding a spring compressor puts no tension on the spring when driving the pins out, but "catches" the spring, more or less, as it is decompressed when the pin is removed. Actually it wouldn't even be the pins... from looking inside the trigger guard goes straight through the gun, and the rear end of the spring guide is pressed against the pin #1 and the trigger guard. I think i get what your saying and i can use my tap and die set on the washers i guess put nuts on too just for added support.. I can see which way the pins need to be removed. Yeah i do notice some slight play in the trigger so some thin brass washers might be a good shim for them.

jmcgall1 · « **Reply #7 on:** January 04, 2014, 05:19:26 PM »

nevermind. as soon as i got that back pin off and looked inside i understand exactly what you are saying
thanks

robert w · « **Reply #8 on:** January 04, 2014, 05:19:59 PM »

the spring guide rests against the trigger block. the front 2 pins hold it in secure. the tool I made straddles the trigger assembly and when you compress the spring it lets the trigger assembly be removed. be carefull the spring is under a lot of pressure . when the pins are out the trigger assembly simply pulls out the bottom. if you only want to work on the trigger you can put 1 pin back in place n let the compressor off for ease of mind and safety. if your goin in deeper n lube tune let the compressor off easy and be sure to be very careful. lots of pressure in the chamber area too

robert w · « **Reply #9 on:** January 04, 2014, 05:25:32 PM »

a few shots of the tool i made. its even but my camera makes it look off center . I got the fender washer n bolts at lowes . I have about $2. in the bolts n washer . its easy to make. there are several different compressors here on gta. I made mine out of oak 1 x 6 and used a 10" c clamp I got at harbor freight . but look in the library n see what compressor style you might prefer . there are several different 1's . some are very complex , some are real simple . that's your choice on that 1

jmcgall1 · « **Reply #10 on:** January 04, 2014, 06:11:24 PM »

Yeah thats exactly what im building right now. Didnt make sense until i pulled that back piece off. Im building my compressor using the skeleton of an old car spring compressor ive had lying around for years. Shouldnt be any issues from here on out. Thanks for posting the pictures.

avator · « **Reply #11 on:** January 04, 2014, 06:14:14 PM »

Nice tool Robert, you know, I can't even remember what I used on mine but I remember it was a bear. Probably just grabbed something from the bench. Kids... don't try this at home as I'm prone to take risks that normal people would have better sence than to take.

robert w · « **Reply #12 on:** January 04, 2014, 06:26:07 PM »

its very simple and cheep too. if anybody hits a snag let me know and if I have any ideas I will share, then we might both become stymied .I looked inside n my light bulb poped on . I thought measure n think. next day in lowes I seen those fender washers ,thought bore 4 holes n screw the bolts down. that sould work and it did too

jmcgall1 · « **Reply #13 on:** January 05, 2014, 05:27:12 PM »

Hey robert did you replace the piston seals on your d/c bee man? just wondering if you used oem replacements from archer air guns or if you got something from elsewhere.

robert w · « **Reply #14 on:** January 05, 2014, 06:30:59 PM »

I got my parts frm beeman direct. it shocked me as they sent me a lot more than I ordered.i will have this gun a long time now cause I have 5 breech seals n 2 piston seals. I decided to dodge the archery dude

Paul68 · « **Reply #15 on:** January 05, 2014, 09:15:44 PM »

The RS2 and RS3 triggers really aren't hard to figure out. This single screw trigger I havent worked with yet, but I doubt its any more complicated. As Robert points out, be slow, methodical, and take pictures and even some notes.

I used a 3/4 inch deepwell socket to make my spring removal tool. Simply cut slots in it to allow it to slide past the trigger block. I have a simple teardown guide I made if you want it.

jmcgall1 · « **Reply #16 on:** January 11, 2014, 12:39:11 PM »

Well guys its done. I did a little each day, from building a spring press, the tool that fits around the trigger, i used a Large wooden dowel and cut a hexagon into one end so that it could be chucked into my dads drill press and used that to bring the internals to a mirror finish. While disassembling the trigger the last two pins came out at the same time and i was left with a mess of sears and springs to sort out. But with some patience and thinking i figured out how it all worked and went back together. No special spring compression tools were needed for the trigger it was mpre of a matter of figuring put which parts to put back in first, but everything got a nice polish and lube. Oh and for the compression chamber and spring i used a combination pf wheel bearing grease and super lube. Worked very well it only dieseled for about five shots and then settled in nicely. The firing cycle seems smoother now but the main thing is the trigger! Oh how that trigger sweetwned up. Much lighter now and very predictable. Hits the first wall, pulls through the second stage a little too long, but then there is another faint click you feel in your finger, hold on that until ready to fire, squeeze just a little more and it breaks cleanly. I wish i had a chrono b4 and after but ill simply compare poi at different distances the next sunny day and figure out how its shooting. Thanks for the help guys

robert w · « **Reply #17 on:** January 11, 2014, 01:33:32 PM »

well glad we got you on the right track. if it quit dieseling its ok. trigger will get even better as it wears in and finds where all the parts are in the "home place" im thinking these beeman guns are an over looked gun. after I worked mine over it takes about 25 pounds pull to cock, nice trigger , and now seems real accurate. it has a lot of power. I need to get a battery so I can crony it. but james above all im glad you got it done. sounds like you did it up real nice

BrokeWinger · « **Reply #18 on:** July 25, 2015, 02:51:01 AM »

This thread just saved my rifle. I went into it blind. Pulled a pin out of the trigger group and a bunch of parts fell out on the bench and I had no idea how to put them back in. Fortunately the pictures were enough for me to figure it out.

Tater · « **Reply #19 on:** July 25, 2015, 07:49:34 AM »

Quote from: BrokeWinger on July 25, 2015, 02:51:01 AM

This thread just saved my rifle. I went into it blind. Pulled a pin out of the trigger group and a bunch of parts fell out on the bench and I had no idea how to put them back in. Fortunately the pictures were enough for me to figure it out.

Very cool! This site is definitely worth the price of admission.

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Need Help disassembling mystery trigger on beeman silver kodiak

Author Topic: Need Help disassembling mystery trigger on beeman silver kodiak (Read 11790 times))