Evanix Tactical Sniper

[dogwood]

no testing today, de-gassed the gun to look at something and when I went to pump it back up I get a nice Hissss

valve isn't seating - tried the heavier spring hoping that would help - nope no go.

got to figure out how to get it to seal

[Nomadic Pirate]

How do you degas them ? .....just shoot them down ?

[pyroboy33]

no testing today, de-gassed the gun to look at something and when I went to pump it back up I get a nice Hissss

valve isn't seating - tried the heavier spring hoping that would help - nope no go.

got to figure out how to get it to seal

 If your valve isnt seating the first thing to try is pumping it with the hammer cocked so that there is not that pressure on the valve, if that doesn't work you should keep it cocked and while pumping have someone gently tap on the valve area with a rubber mallet or the like to coax the valve into seating.

[dogwood]

Thanks Caleb good tips, luckily I remember it from before and had the gun cocked.
after putting the heaver spring in I didn't even mount he pressure vessel to the receiver I just started pumping.

I'll try the tapping trick next

NP, I shot it down to 100 bar then pulled the tube from the gun and used a small brass hammer to lightly tap it until it was completely empty, thought the brass hammer would give me more control and abuse the vale less than the steel hammer hitting at flu speed every time.

[rkr]

Thanks Caleb good tips, luckily I remember it from before and had the gun cocked.
after putting the heaver spring in I didn't even mount he pressure vessel to the receiver I just started pumping.

I'll try the tapping trick next

NP, I shot it down to 100 bar then pulled the tube from the gun and used a small brass hammer to lightly tap it until it was completely empty, thought the brass hammer would give me more control and abuse the vale less than the steel hammer hitting at flu speed every time.

You could just slightly open the hex nut at the side of the valve block to degas.

[Fur-n-dirt]

One more thing, shooting big bores is completly different than shooting small bores, the kick does alot to the accuracy, it took me awhile to figure that out years ago when I 1st started shooting the Sam Yang .45 and the Career .357

You gonna learn how to shoot them big bores, more like a springer in a ways than a small bore PCP.


I've seen a ton of people getting all excited abot big bores but when they got them couldn't shoot them accurately and sold them blaming the gun, gotta learn to shoot them guns

What are you saying Manny?     

[Nomadic Pirate]

Just because is a PCP people think thay won't kick, than they get them and immediatly realise that they actually kick pretty good compared to the mellow 30 FPE .22
because of the low velocity -/+ 900 fps the bullet/pellet takes a long time to exit the barrel making correct shooting technique a must.

alot of folks freak out because they can't immediatly shoot groups like they do with the .22 PCP and sell the gun because it's inaccurate

It took me awhile to figure out to shoot Big Bores, luckily I never had a Small bore PCP before so I wasn't shocked by the difference, I went from a Supermagnum Springer straigth to a Career Ultra .357 and a Sam Yang .45

[Carl]

Basically, a good follow through is a must.

[dogwood]

well between being sick, pump giving me a hard time and getting the gun to hold air I haven't done much. I did get to try out some of the Ballistic Products 360 round balls, got 2 sessions over the crony before the pump acted up again,
shot the 3rd and last season for accuracy at 25 yards, not good, 2" c-t-c about what I was getting with the JSBs at 50.

they do load nicely and are a good cheap practice load, so not a major bummer.  Will see how they do in my friends 3D.

Once I fix the pump I will try changing the breech o-ring  again, size is 012 (got that from PA, assuming its Metric)

[Nomadic Pirate]

now I definatly think you got a bad barrel, there's no other explanation to get those bad groups

[dogwood]

I'm leaning that way as well, thinking of ordering a 24" TJ in .357   

[rkr]

I'm leaning that way as well, thinking of ordering a 24" TJ in .357   

LWs work also well, some local lads are getting 15mm ctc groups at 60 yards using bullets. My stock barrel does 4mm ctc at 20 yards with JSBs and 8mm ctc with roundballs. I think I'll have to work with the barrel next.

[dogwood]

I'm leaning that way as well, thinking of ordering a 24" TJ in .357   

LWs work also well, some local lads are getting 15mm ctc groups at 60 yards using bullets. My stock barrel does 4mm ctc at 20 yards with JSBs and 8mm ctc with roundballs. I think I'll have to work with the barrel next.

That's good to heat rkr, the LWs are .356 are they not?

[rkr]

I'm leaning that way as well, thinking of ordering a 24" TJ in .357   

LWs work also well, some local lads are getting 15mm ctc groups at 60 yards using bullets. My stock barrel does 4mm ctc at 20 yards with JSBs and 8mm ctc with roundballs. I think I'll have to work with the barrel next.

That's good to heat rkr, the LWs are .356 are they not?

I don't recall that but make sure it's not choked if you plan on shooting bullets. Have you checked that your "brake" is not clipping? Howabout the crown, that's another easy fix unless it's tilted or offset.

[dogwood]

Definitely  not clipping and the crown looks pretty good.
Was thinking of trying to redo it anyway but my current setup would make that difficult.

I'm thinking the lead in might be too long if not irregular as well, will try and check that tonight by hand searing a pellet

On my friends 3D you can feel the bullet as you close the action where on mine you can't

[nappyman]

Maybe your barrel is vibrating , maybe your barrel band needs pressure applied or less pressure. I use the barrel band as the final adjustment when zeroing on my WC.  With scope if it hits high/low/right/left on a 1" target at 50y I use barrel band set screws if need be to make it hit dead center if scope will not .

Just a suggestion , works for me maybe this can help your groups

[dogwood]

Maybe your barrel is vibrating , maybe your barrel band needs pressure applied or less pressure. I use the barrel band as the final adjustment when zeroing on my WC.  With scope if it hits high/low/right/left on a 1" target at 50y I use barrel band set screws if need be to make it hit dead center if scope will not .

Just a suggestion , works for me maybe this can help your groups

Interesting thought, I will have to explore it a bit - can't order a new barrel for a couple of weeks anyway.

I know on my Marauder that if I tighten the end cap too much it will affect accuracy, lots and lots of variables - need to figure out a way to weed each one out.

[dogwood]

took the barrel band off, first grp was at 16 yards, one large ragged hole, promising. took it out to 25 yards 2"+ still    a couple went into one large hole, so I tried again, concentrating on my form, loose...follow through...
bah no better, still over 2"

still seeing a good bit of leading, going to run a bunch more fire lapping bullets through it, can't hurt at this point.

still a few more things to look at before I write off the barrel completely.

[C.ALLS]

Assuming your shroud setup is similar to the rain storm you might want to check shroud alignment. When you slip the shroud through the barrel band and over the end of the barrel things shouldn't bind. Now where I found an issue was when I got the shroud down to the breech where it screws onto the breech. The shroud wouldn't slide on to the breech threads without pushing down a little (pushing the shroud towards the air tube). That means when I was putting the shroud on the barrel was being lifted up in order for everything to align. Not sure if you can understand what I'm saying, it's not easy to describe. I took a .1mm shim and placed it in the end of the breech under the barrel. I tried a few different thicknesses but this one got me lined up perfectly. Now when I put my shroud on it lines up perfectly with the end of the breech and screws right on without any vertical persuasion needed.

I did this as well as remove a bur from the barrel transfer port and my groups (after lots of shooting and learning how to shoot a big bore) are able to be covered by a quarter at 50 yards. The gun was a pain in the butt for a long time but after you get it dialed it's a pure joy to shoot. 

[dogwood]

I understand exactly what you're saying C.ALLS as I see pretty much the same thing and reflects what I'm seeing, using JSBs I'm getting good groups at 25 and 50 yards AFTER I removed the barrel band. I'll have to give your shim idea a try

here's a 50 yard grp of 7 shots I just did, strong crosswind from light to left, tried to time it between gusts



shot 6 and 7 reflect what I was seeing on the Chrony, rapid drop in velocity after 5.  shots 2 -5 are about 3/4"
I'm going to assume 1 was either me or the wind since it is vertically lined up with 2-5

seems the guns not real happy with the Round ball past 16 yards.   

If I can duplicate theses results later (hoping the wind will calm down) I'll start shooting over the Crony again to see if I can't bring the velocity up more without affecting accuracy.