Author Topic: Flattop valve caps for the 766/2100/2200 guns (Read 8580 times))

Big Bore Bart · « **on:** October 22, 2013, 03:05:07 AM »

The project has begun.

The first step was to mold a plug of the inside of the factory cap. Greased up the inside and filled with epoxy, when set pulled it out with a screw.

Next chucked up a piece of good stuff, and copied the plug with the addition of a 1/16 od pilot.

Tomorrow the flutes will get ground in with a Dremel mounted in the toolpost.

mav72 · « **Reply #1 on:** October 22, 2013, 10:45:23 PM »

Nice work! It's pretty interesting stuff...

cwlongshot · « **Reply #2 on:** October 22, 2013, 10:46:26 PM »

GREAT start!!

I'll be wanting one.

CW

Big Bore Bart · « **Reply #3 on:** October 22, 2013, 11:21:43 PM »

I need a better camera

Made the first pass on the flutes with a carbide burr.

The next passes will be with a diamond wheel, then it will get quenched and tempered, dressed with a diamond stone and used.

I expect to make the first parts on Friday.

I will install the first one in my gun and chrony it. Hopefully it works the first time. Otherwise back to the drawing board

.

Big Bore Bart · « **Reply #4 on:** October 23, 2013, 11:49:04 PM »

Fluting finished.

Tomorrow it gets quenched and tempered, then final honing.

mav72 · « **Reply #5 on:** October 24, 2013, 06:00:43 PM »

Nice tool you got there.... LOL

I've always wondered how to quench and temper metal... I tried it once with an old rusted blade but I really didn't know what I was doing...

Big Bore Bart · « **Reply #6 on:** October 26, 2013, 09:57:26 PM »

The tool is done and works a treat. Got the test cap done, will install it tonight, and chrony tomorrow.

Mav; Quench and temper is not that hard. This tool was made from an old strut rod. What the material actually is

all I know is it is a water hardening grade not an oil hardening grade.

To quench and temper an unknown steel. Heat to a bright orange and quench in oil. Check hardness with a file, if the file cuts the metal, reheat and quench in water, retest. If the file still cuts, the steel is non hardenable. If the file slides the steel is a water hardening grade. To temper is to draw the hardness a small amount to reduce brittleness. For a cutting tool 400-500*F usually works OK.

Big Bore Bart · « **Reply #7 on:** October 26, 2013, 10:20:29 PM »

OK so far I've got, Fwawa, Rex, CW, Mav, and KO wanting one. How many others. Tomorrow production begins.

cwlongshot · « **Reply #8 on:** October 26, 2013, 10:54:32 PM »

Yup I am in!

CW

Rex · « **Reply #9 on:** October 26, 2013, 11:55:24 PM »

Me too.

mav72 · « **Reply #10 on:** October 27, 2013, 08:31:05 AM »

Thanks for the info... I never even knew that... That's some great stuff...

Yep, count me in... You've gotten me all excited about a couple of my other guns too... I basically own all three guns in the title.. Two just go by different names...

Can't wait to see those chrony numbers... Thanks!

Big Bore Bart · « **Reply #11 on:** October 27, 2013, 05:38:22 PM »

It Works Got it installed and chronied. My 766 is modded, so your results may vary.

Here's mine at 10 pumps with 7.9 CPHP's.

This is with a factory short check poppet, a very light valve spring, stock striker spring, a Delrin poppet, and an O-ring sealed breech.
It hits ~870 fps with 16 pumps now instead of 855 with 18 pumps.

The Starlings are gonna hate me.

Gotta go cut some brass.

mav72 · « **Reply #12 on:** October 27, 2013, 10:59:08 PM »

Hahaha Now that's what I'm talking about! I knew these guns could put out some power...

NICE!

Big Bore Bart · « **Reply #13 on:** October 27, 2013, 11:18:57 PM »

Finished six brass ones today.

Broke my 1/16 drill bit

need to buy a new one to continue.

Two have visibly off center inlets caused by a very flexible drill bit, being used to drill to deep.

Those I may keep here. Once I have a new bit I will make a run of aluminum ones.

K.O. · « **Reply #14 on:** October 27, 2013, 11:39:08 PM »

Big Bore Bart · « **Reply #15 on:** October 30, 2013, 01:42:48 AM »

OK. Decided on pricing.
USA. Brass= 17.50 shipped USPS 1st class package. Aluminum = $12.50 shipped same way.
Canada: Brass = $US15.00+6.50 USPS 1st class package international. Aluminum = 10.00 + same shipping as brass.
These are small enough for a padded envelope.
There are four brass ones ready to go. Five if the off center inlet hole is acceptable $:-\$ . Aluminum ones will be a couple days more.

PM me with info.

cwlongshot · « **Reply #16 on:** October 30, 2013, 09:39:04 AM »

Is pay pal accepted?

I would like a brass one please.

I'll PM

CW

UPDATE; My pay pal pmt sent!!!

Thanks Barton!!

Big Bore Bart · « **Reply #17 on:** October 30, 2013, 01:42:58 PM »

Thanks CW.. It will be in the mail today

Happy Modding

cwlongshot · « **Reply #18 on:** October 30, 2013, 03:31:19 PM »

Quote from: Big Bore Bart on October 30, 2013, 01:42:58 PM

Thanks CW.. It will be in the mail today Happy Modding

You watch or it!!! Maybe a week or two I'll begin!!

Something has happened in the 2200 valve. As it held pressure overnight last night. I shot it about seven and at one am it was still very good. I pumped two additional times but when I shot the pellet went right thru a good sized rat and heavily dented the feed troth. It's about 16g steel. So I may hold off a little longer and see how it works. I like it better than the 1377 as it's 22 and kills better in body shots. Plus it's easier to pump for momma.

. Momma like to shoot too!! She is usually right there holding the light when I do the permimter check.

CW

K.O. · « **Reply #19 on:** October 31, 2013, 02:27:00 PM »

I have to wait for till payday early next month but will pm you about the 5th for one of the aluminum caps.

Thanks for the effort.

Thank you to our advertisers!

Flattop valve caps for the 766/2100/2200 guns

Author Topic: Flattop valve caps for the 766/2100/2200 guns (Read 8580 times))