Help! Benjamin Trail NP Pistol, trigger mod

[Bdh345]

Benjamin's trail NP pistol. Trigger travel is too long and heavy. Can someone suggest modifications, or which trigger is should buy from Charliedetuna ? These mods and triggers seem to be for rifles. I have the pistol.
Thanks
 Barry

[BillK]

I have one also and know what you mean about the trigger.  I have to switch fingers after about 15 shots.
However it seems that this pistol has not generated much interest in the modding department.  May be because of the lousy reviews it got/gets.  It is more like a rough break barrel rifle than a sweet shooting pistol. 
With a red dot and a lot of patience I'm hitting the target now.

[uncle paulie]

Not sure about the NP Pistol, but his site has a page which shows the trigger assemblies for two styles you can compare yours to. If yours is different, shoot him an e-mail and he'll be glad to help you out.

pv

[dallas01]

I just purchased the new Benjamin Trail NP pistol and am appalled with the trigger. Since the pistol is nothing more than a cut down version of the NP rifle,I felt that maybe Crossman did not re-engineer the trigger group that they put in the NP pistol. Maybe the GRT III or The CBT that Charlie has built for the rifle might work with the pistol. The pictures provided by Charlie certainly look like the same trigger group as the pistol. I am tempted to send Charlie the trigger out of the pistol and ask him to send me the replacement trigger for the rifle ( whichever of the two comes the closest to matching my trigger.)
I recently purchased the GRT-4G for my Gamo Silent cat and love would it has done for that rifle. If I can get the same performance out of the pistol as the Gamo is giving me , I'd be delighted.

An additional note. This is going to sound nuts, but I just installed the Daisy red dot sight (Academy Sports , $9.99) in place of the rear sight on the Trail and it works great.

[Bdh345]

Well, I think I found a fix, sort of. The trigger has an adjustment screw, as others have mentioned, it doesn't work. I took a look, and went and bought a M3 screw about a quarter of an inch longer than the original screw. When using this longer screw it actually has an effect of reducing the trigger travel, as you screw it in you can see what is happening. I didn't take the trigger apart.
Barry

[BillK]

Great...I'll give it a try tomorrow.  Hope it reduces the pull also.  But anything will help.  I really want to like this gun.

[dallas01]

Yesterday I pulled the trigger out of the NP and found that it is way different than the ones in the rifle. Oh Well, back to the drawing board.

Dallas-

[Wimpod1]

I was soooooo looking for a good economical pistol for playnig around with after the Ruger Mark let me down.  With the crappy trigger and the fact that mybreach seal leaks, i'm not very satisfied.  I'll be watching for your posts if you do come up with some improvements. thanks,

[BillK]

Well, I think I found a fix, sort of. The trigger has an adjustment screw, as others have mentioned, it doesn't work. I took a look, and went and bought a M3 screw about a quarter of an inch longer than the original screw. When using this longer screw it actually has an effect of reducing the trigger travel, as you screw it in you can see what is happening. I didn't take the trigger apart.
Barry

I went to the store and got a screw and put it in.  It does reduce the travel and if you screw it waayyy in it defeats the safety.  Backed it out until the safety worked and shot it a bit.  It does help....
Sure wish I knew enough to be able to reduce the pull weight.  Maybe this winter it will be a project.  I'll have to take a bunch of pictures as I dissemble it so I can get it back together.  Sort of a daunting thought.

[dallas01]

I too went shopping for a new trigger adjustment screw today,and ended up with a 3m that was about 1/4 inch longer than the original. When I screwed it in all the way, I can't cock the weapon. I backed off a half turn and it got a little better. Another quarter turn,  and finally I could fully cock the pistol without feeling like it was binding up . However the safety would not work. I continued to back it off a quarter turn at a time until everything finally worked . It cocks easily , the safety worked, and viola, the trigger worked now pulls short and sweet. No long pull, no hang up in the middle of the squeeze, just nice crisp pulls. It has made a world of difference to this pistol. Cost is about a buck at your friendly Ace hardware store.

[uncle paulie]

Just make sure (very sure) you have adjusted it only to the point which it's still safe, wouldn't do to have it go off if moderately bumped!

pv

[dallas01]

Thanks for the advice. I played with the adjustment for a good hour before I had reached a compromise position. Everything is working. The safety works, the cocking is smooth and the trigger pull is much shorter (still a long way from a hair trigger.)

Dallas-

[sr1sws]

Tore into my pistol today.

Pulled the piston (a real b*tch as the trigger frame is spot welded to the receiver - had to pull a pin and remove the sear (or one of the sear components).  Cleaned the piston and buttoned the rear with a strip of PETE from some bakery packaging attached with CA glue.  Lubed seal and piston with Molykote M77.

Reassembled and lubed the trigger where I could see and access contact points with M77 and some Mobile 1 (I use on my Glock).  I dug up an M3 screw that was way long and cut it down with my Dremel.  Buttoned everything back up.

Huge difference in how the gun shoots.  The M3 screw is the ticket for the trigger, but it is way easy to get it too light.  I may do some more tweaking to make sure it's safe.

Steve

[Mort Canard]

After practicing with my Trail NP pistol today I was getting frustrated with the long pull on the trigger.  So I went searching and found this thread.

I have a couple of refinements to add to the M3 trigger fix as I did it this evening.  I went to Ace Hardware and bought a M3x12 machine screw and the appropriate nut.  (If you want to get high zoot you can get a hex drive screw and be able to adjust your trigger with an allen wrench)  Run the nut down all the way on the M3x12 screw.  Then take a file or dremel tool and create a rounded ball end on the tip of the screw.  This is going to be the engagement point for your trigger so you might as well have it as smooth as possible.  When you have a nice round end on the point of the screw back off the nut and use it to clean up any burrs on the end of the screw as you remove it.  You can work the nut in and out till it goes on and comes off easily.  You can now discard the nut as you don't need it any more.

Next take the old adjusting screw out, put a very small amount of blue loctite or "gun-tite" on the threads of the new screw.  You don't want to lock it in place for all time you just want it not to back out on it's own.  You can now set about to adjust the trigger so you have the amount of creep before the sear breaks that suits you.  Personally I set it so that when I concentrate I can move the trigger engagement once and only once without firing the gun.

Total cost for the trigger mod is less than a dollar plus the cost of the gas to get to the local hardware store.   

I was originally thinking that I would have to find a way to relax the trigger spring but with a nice crisp short pull I will leave the spring tension the way the factory set it.  Like Steve said, it makes a huge difference in the way the gun shoots. 

[ZigZagMan1949]

   I have found one other thing that helped a lot on my Trail NP Pistol. On the parts diagram sear spring #29 Part #s3-00-14, this is on the second sear in the chain of sears in the gun. I accidentally collapsed it while trying to lube that area and had to take it out to expand it again. I did not get it back to the same tension as before and low and behold the trigger was great after that. If you are going to try this just be aware that it is hard to get back together. I would advise you use a probe to help hold the spring in place when you go to replace it.  This makes it a lot easier to reinsert the pin you will have to pull to get the spring out to work on it. Hope this will help also I have done all the other things mentioned in the other posts and really like the pistol now.

[BillK]

Darrell, any chance of a pic.?

[ZigZagMan1949]

  OK hope this helps the bottom pic. is the pin you need to pull and the top one is the sear its self. If you want you can pry the sear its self up and that will collapse the spring without removing the pin. I did that trying to lube the contact point between the two sears. But you can collapse it to far, that's what I did buy accident and had to take the pin out to expand the spring again. I have no idea how far I moved the spring only that it did help.
   Good luck and one other thing I add about 6 oz. of weight to the grip to help with the balance of the gun. I know this makes it heavy but it seems to help with the shooting low problem too.
   Later Darrell

[Big Tim]

Great thread!!! The worst trigger ever. Ever.

[BillK]

Thanks for the pic & info Darrell.  I'll give the spring a try this winter.  Someday I'm gonna really like this pistol.

[Brets Crappy Shots]

I know im digging up a dead post but it has got me curious if you can use the roller bearing mod on this like you can on the rifles that Kenny(myairgunreviews) did a video on?