My 2nd Target Trap

[Frank in Fairfield]

I made this trap from scrap recently after I ordered and assembled another kit from online. This one is supposed to hold a sheet of paper 10x14" horizontally. 20lbs of duct seal is in the box. When I made the one from online I ordered a steel backing plate too. For this green one, I had an old stop sign laying around, so I cut a hunk of it out as a backing plate. I figured, *(&^, an air gun won't go through that. Today, I was shooting the .177 Marauder. 10.5 CPD at 925fps or 20ftlbs. I thought to myself. Is that the wind blowing those bushes behind my target? Nope. The pellets went through 4" of duct seal, 3/4" of marine plywood and a 1/8" steel plate. As far as raccoons, coyotes, badgers, jackrabbits.....I am no longer concerned.

[michaelthomas]

Wow, I can't believe it went through that!  I would have never guessed.

I make do with a USPS medium flat rate box stuffed full of old clothes.  I think my Avanti 753 only squeaks out about 3.75 FPE up here in the altitude, though.

Nice looking trap.

Mike

[Mr_Sis]

How far away was the target just wondering. Nice job on building. Nothing like shooting through something to give confidence. I was blowing through a 2x4 at 50 yards with my .22 mrod so i use it on woodchucks.

[Frank in Fairfield]

How far away was the target just wondering. Nice job on building. Nothing like shooting through something to give confidence. I was blowing through a 2x4 at 50 yards with my .22 mrod so i use it on woodchucks.

18-20 yards

[Evan]

The picture of your project is gone but I made a trap that holds the clipboard for the targets.

Used 3/8 inch lexan for the back.  Darn near bullet proof stuff.

[Frank in Fairfield]

I took the photo down because I shot through the back of it. 20 lbs of duct seal in front of a piece of genuine stop sign, folded in half. The .22 Marauder tore it up.

[Evan]

Ahh.  I see that now.  I think mine is set up with 1-1.5 blocks of duct seal for thickness.  Guess the lexan was a good choice!

Might have to try it out with the .25 and see if there is any damage.

[LW Hiway]

It could be said I want to keep lead from littering the target areas where I do most of my piddle shooting(targets, scope and chrono work) but in reality, I hate wasting lead. So...., for target or tuning in the apartment I use rubber chips found at the box stores stuffed(completely stuffed) inside cardboard boxes which are usually a good 12" deep x 24"x 24". This rubber chip material I assume would typically be used for covering areas of ground between or around plants in the yard or something.

Inside the box, against the back is a full plate of 1/8" hot rolled sheet metal and in front of this is a white soft rubber/plastic cutting board material. This is what I use for calibers up to .30. Anything above I describe below.

As the target area of the boxes front gets shot full of holes, I keep adding a fresh layer of cardboard taped down with duct tape and shoot on.

After I've added a dozen of new fronts, I'll open the box and dump the rubber chips in a couple of 5 gallon buckets. Stir the rubber bits around and the lead will sink by gravity to the bottom. I can then easily reclaim the lead for future molding of bullets for my big bore rifles.

The rubber will not pack or open up an alley way inside the target box from repeated shooting, but will move around from it's inherent memory and will just get replaced by other pieces as they somewhat move around.

While I do not recommend doing so, I have a box which is 24" deep and prepared in the same way as above with a 1/4" metal sheet full width and on occasion shoot my Big Bores in the apt during the week for tuning or scope sighting with no full penetration to the wall. Of course I keep a piece of 5/4" ply standing up against the wall with the boxes hanging off of it for added backing.