1377 owners: get in here!

[Hoosier Daddy]

Think I posted this before... Helped me tons! (including the tiny ball and spring)
2240 and the 13XX is the same trigger group.

[Rick67]

UK Neil pickle and stainless steel cnc made plug:

[nervoustrigger]

The trigger video Scott posted is a good one.  Here's my take on it:

Okay guys and gals, this article is about the basic Crosman trigger present in the Discovery & Maximus, 2240, 2400KT, 1377 & 1322, etc.  And I want to jump right to the final thoughts.  This tuneup has made my Crosman guns way more enjoyable to shoot.  Big time.  I find I'm reaching for them far more often than I have in the past.  It has made them fun again, and after all that's really what counts.  Not to overstate it, they're no match for a fully adjustable trigger that's received a similar amount of attention.  If you want that, do the Marauder retrofit and don't look back.  But if you find it hard to drop that kind of coin on a new trigger group, please read on. 

So what all does this tuneup involve?  Four things:

• smoothing and polishing - the basis for most every trigger tune
• reducing the pull weight - a lighter spring combined with #1 makes this possible
• eliminating the sideways slop in the trigger blade - a mildly annoying thing that makes a trigger feel cheap
• eliminating the sear spring's interference with the housing - this is a key source of annoying stick-slip-stick-slip behavior.  Doesn't affect all guns but seemingly most.

Okay so let's jump in.  First order of business is to deal with that Mickey Mouse sear.  Oh my, it's a piece of sh..... stamped steel that looks like it was cut out by an angry beaver.  Pictures are better than words so I'll let these be the guide.







To understand a little better about what we're dealing with, the following graphic shows the type of edge produced by a shearing operation.  If you look closely at your sear as it is delivered from the factory, you can make out the shiny burnished portion and the dull fractured portion.  You can also feel the slightly radiused rollover on the top side and a sharp burr on the bottom side.  Our aim is to get rid of all these things. 



Besides the obvious flattening and polishing visible in the photos, I recommend also taking a few angled passes to remove the burr on the tearout side.  If all our parts remain perfectly orthogonal, the burr is irrelevant.  But there is some play in the parts and they will twist on the pivot pins which gives some opportunity for the burr to introduce friction so I like to go ahead and knock it down.

For best results, I also recommend smoothing the hammer.  I had already done that to mine some time ago and I didn't want to remove the breech and barrel to pull it out for a photo, but at some point I'll come back and add it to this article.

For the trigger, smooth and polish the rounded face that presses against the sear:



Now with all the contact points smoothed, you may still feel some hitches in the pull...the stick-slip-stick-slip thing I referred to earlier.  If you don't, you can skips this part. If you do, it's easy to chalk it up to whatever friction remains in the system but that may not be the actual cause.  Take a close look at the spring while you pull the trigger.  The coils tend to drag on the sides of the trigger frame.  There's a beveled edge that keeps it from snagging hard but the interference is enough to be easily felt.

In that case, make a little guide block as shown.  It fits into the rectangular channel underneath the sear and is just tall enough to keep the spring out of the trigger frame so it can't catch on anything.  This one was done with hand tools so don't let that stand in your way:



A few days later, I'm looking at the guide and realize it's basically a Lego piece.  So I go grab a couple of pieces from my boys' collection and it turns it's not just the same basic shape, but it's exactly 0.31" square just like the one I made.  The little cap on top is not a snug fit to the 0.25" ID spring but it works just as smoothly as the one I made.



That's it, now on to assembly:



Start by doing a dry fit to make sure everything goes together okay.  Use this step to determine if your spacer washers are right to take up the side play but not so thick as to cause things to bind up.  Similarly, check that the guide block moves freely when you exercise the trigger.  Once you're happy with it, lubricate the contact surfaces and do a final assembly.

The resulting trigger pull should be much smoother now and between 8 - 16oz depending on the strength of your hammer spring.  Be sure to check that it's not adjusted too light.  Cock it and give it a few firm strikes at the buttstock or grip to ensure it won't fire accidentally.

I hope this helps! 

[rangerfredbob]

As the video shows, the easiest way to deal with the trigger spring and ball is to do it with the frame off, it's just 2 screws but will save you at least 5 minutes of screwing around... if not a bunch of cussing

The video mentions that he went too far on the sear spring when he had the grip frame off... he didn't, when the sear isn't hitting the tube you don't have a frame of reference on the spring length... from my experience you want to have about 1/8" of spring preload for a nice trigger pull.

[DHunter]

As the video shows, the easiest way to deal with the trigger spring and ball is to do it with the frame off, it's just 2 screws but will save you at least 5 minutes of screwing around... if not a bunch of cussing

Do you mean the tiny safety indexing spring?  I did notice that in the video.  That way, with the safety pin in place, you can just drop the ball bearing in the hole, put the spring in after it, and put the frame back on.

[Hoosier Daddy]

That is what I was trying to help you with Doug.

[Icemanxxxv]

Fresh off the bench bore sighted and ready to go CHOOTIN!

1322 24 inch Crosman barrel and steel breach and  Backpacker stock.
Alchemy Airwerks Flat Top Piston and Valve ported and pinned to the tube with Magnum Airpower Lightest check spring and standard check.  Held tight at the front with HPA's Blue Fork barrel band and solid pin. Air let loose courtesy of a stock hammer, Magnum Airpower Disco spring and power adjuster. Held together with their upgraded fasteners.
Pellets shoved into the breach by Alchemy's extended bolt soon to be actuated by his round stainless bolt handle. Barrel has been shined and brightened with JB's Bore Brite and Bore Shine and some elbow grease and a couple hundred patches .
Air flows through Magnum Airpowers custom transfer sleeve through deburred transfer hole and leade via a 3.1lb stock polished and shimmed sear riding on 9/64ths drill stock pins with Magnum Airpower's light sear spring. Pellets head their way out of a regrind on the stock crown. The Athlon  Neos 4x12x44 side focus scope is held tight with Hawke rings and your cheek rests on an Ebay padded stock riser and pouch. I have only dry fired to see if it functions and it does. It also dumps all 20 pumps with one pull of the trigger. The forearm sports a Tactical Solutions rail covered with rubber eBay Weaver Picatinny rail covers. Giveing a nicer purchase for the hand and cuts the handle flex to next to nothing  the wobble is kept in check with the help of a shim between the pump arm  and pump linkage pivot pin. No Chronograph yet, but I got some Cabela's bucks I need to spend.

[xtred1]

Here is mine I bought it in 1988 it still has a good crack when it goes off.

[Back_Roads]

 Sweet! I think mine is somewhere in this post already 
 Read the amazon post on the 1322 sale, and to me it will cost another $200. or so LOL

[Icemanxxxv]

Sweet! I think mine is somewhere in this post already 
 Read the amazon post on the 1322 sale, and to me it will cost another $200. or so LOL

You would be lucky to get out for 200

[Rick67]

As the video shows, the easiest way to deal with the trigger spring and ball is to do it with the frame off, it's just 2 screws but will save you at least 5 minutes of screwing around... if not a bunch of cussing

Do you mean the tiny safety indexing spring?  I did notice that in the video.  That way, with the safety pin in place, you can just drop the ball bearing in the hole, put the spring in after it, and put the frame back on.

I glued the ball with Krazy Glue. Have done this simple mod a long time ago with my previous Crosmans.

[Matchstickshooter]

As the video shows, the easiest way to deal with the trigger spring and ball is to do it with the frame off, it's just 2 screws but will save you at least 5 minutes of screwing around... if not a bunch of cussing

Do you mean the tiny safety indexing spring?  I did notice that in the video.  That way, with the safety pin in place, you can just drop the ball bearing in the hole, put the spring in after it, and put the frame back on.

I glued the ball with Krazy Glue. Have done this simple mod a long time ago with my previous Crosmans.

+1 Super Glue!

[Rick67]

All it lacks is the ATI cheekrest. Should be here tomorrow.

[Rick67]

Without a "pickle"and with OEM trigger. Replaced it with a Don Cothran. It now sports a MAP Super Sear. Sear is thick and does not require a shim like the roller trigger.



Just got this adapter from Poland yesterday. Splendid piece and incredible machining and finish: 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SILENCER-ADAPTER-1-2-20-UNF-Benjamin-Discovery-Crosman-2240-11-11mm-cut/173288399186?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

[Matchstickshooter]

I've been waiting on one from there,mine doesn't have the cutout for the pressure tube.

[Tater]

Just got this adapter from Poland yesterday. Splendid piece and incredible machining and finish: 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SILENCER-ADAPTER-1-2-20-UNF-Benjamin-Discovery-Crosman-2240-11-11mm-cut/173288399186?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I like that adapter. It looks like the cut out would make it easier to fill a Disco when put on the bottom side of the barrel.

[Matchstickshooter]

Richard, how long did it take to get it,after ordering? I'm worse than a kid waiting for Christmas!

[caymin last]

Wow, I've been looking through this thread, there are some amazing mods, tips and tricks. Some very creative and skilled folks. I need to get out my old 1377 and give it some love.

[Rick67]

Richard, how long did it take to get it,after ordering? I'm worse than a kid waiting for Christmas!

Mr. Wendell, it arrived in the US in 3 days but it stayed in NY Customs for quite a while.

I ordered it July 02 and got it only yesterday, so it is exactly 14 days.

It is worth the wait. It is a very well machined piece and the finish is a very deep nitride black with no pale undertones unlike most metals having this kind of finish.

It is hefty though and very solid!

[Rick67]

If you can see the o-ring around the OEM trigger's "tongue" in the picture containing the unsuppressed version of my 1377, that is my simple trigger mod w/c makes the Crosman trigger so much better. It rids it of slack/play and becomes a true single stage. The o-ring thickness may vary from gun to gun though.





On the DC trigger, I glued a .003 o-ring (I would have preferred it to be thinner) on top of its tongue because it is wide enough to sit on it. It will have the same effect, albeit you have to nudge the trigger upward for the sear and hammer to engage when you cock the bolt.

Just try sliding a shirt or even a folded tissue between that area (trigger and frame) and you will find out what I mean.

Another simple mod which I learned from Mr. Mudduck of CAPOF was to install 2 stainless washers in this area:



It will rid the pump mechanism of that lousy slop.