Benji Trail NP .22 AW Barrel Shroud Removal?

[tvan]

I searched a bit a could not find info or tips on removing this shroud.  I know the barrel end is threaded, but I do not see how to apply any tool to loosen it. Hand pressure does not budge it.  Any tips or advice is appreciated.

[ezman604]

1/4" allen wrench in the crown end...I believe.

[chuck_steak]

1/4" allen wrench in the crown end...I believe.

You believe correctly!

Dan

[tvan]

Thanks.  It appeared round, but the allen fits further in...now if it will only break loose...may have to resort to tapping the wrench with a hammer...

[J.J.]

Can i ask why do you want to remove it? Just some food for thought, if you're under the presumption that you need to remove it to clean your barrel, you dont have to do it. All you need is a straw. Put it in the end and you wont have to worry about the weedeater string to be caught up. And a further note, when you tighten, loosen, replace, take on or off, it will change your point of impact.

[ezman604]

Like J asks, why are you needing to remove it?
You can use a hair dryer and warm the end that will probably help it break loose.

[tvan]

I've seen some pics of bad barrel crowns on these guns and wanted to check it to make sure I have a good one.  I'll just keep shooting it for now until it breaks in.

[ShakySarge]

That is a legitimate reason for wishing t see the crown. But as Ezman said, hair dryer will be better in the end than a hammer!!

Matt

[john]

Here's how i did it:

Didn't have to remove stock or scope or use a vice and no propane torch needed. I broke the barrel open to 90deg & laid the gun on it's right side with the barrel pointed at me off the edge of the table and the rest of the gun to the right cushioned by a towel so as not to tweak the scope. The thread locking adhesive they use needs to be warmed up to loosen.  I choked the air intake of my heatgun with a rag just enough until the heating coil was glowing just somewhat redder than recommended. Heated the muzzle area for ~3min until the tip of my digital baking thermometer measured ~280ºF when touched to the muzzle. With the 1/4" Allen wrench inserted in the Sleeve Cover (that's the front piece of the 3piece shroud) and pointed to the right, I torqued the Allen counterclockwise letting the weight of the gun just ease her loose. Hope this helps.

[tvan]

Thanks for all the advice.  I didn't have a heat gun, but was able to run a hair dryer on it long enough to loosen it up.  Good news, the barrel crown looks good.  I just had a small burr at the inside end of the allen hole on the shroud that cleaning patches were catching on.  A little filing and I'm good to go.

Trigger upgrade is ordered.  Can't wait to see the difference everyone is getting with this upgrade.

[ezman604]

Here's how i did it:

Didn't have to remove stock or scope or use a vice and no propane torch needed. I broke the barrel open to 90deg & laid the gun on it's right side with the barrel pointed at me off the edge of the table and the rest of the gun to the right cushioned by a towel so as not to tweak the scope. The thread locking adhesive they use needs to be warmed up to loosen.  I choked the air intake of my heatgun with a rag just enough until the heating coil was glowing just somewhat redder than recommended. Heated the muzzle area for ~3min until the tip of my digital baking thermometer measured ~280ºF when touched to the muzzle. With the 1/4" Allen wrench inserted in the Sleeve Cover (that's the front piece of the 3piece shroud) and pointed to the right, I torqued the Allen counterclockwise letting the weight of the gun just ease her loose. Hope this helps.

LOL
Lucky you didn't burn something up, fry your heat gun or bubble the paint on the shroud. It doesn't normally take THAT much heat.

[lacey1948]

You have to do something you've been taught ALL your life NOT to do. LOOK DOWN THE BARREL AND YOU WILL SEE THE ALLEN SET MOLDED INTO THE BARREL ! I had it cocked with nonthing in the barrel and it STILL bothered me, a lot.

[shooter r]

I just bought a Steel Eagle  NP2, which I believe is the same as the "Trail" but with a full stock. Before I bought it I checked out a few reviews. Paul Capello's, from Pyramid Air was the most helpful, and because of his experience, I felt the most reliable. He started the video with a trip to the Crossman Factory and showed how they build the NP2's. To put the shroud on they insert a plastic "cone" on one end, slip the silencer in on the other, and then just spin it on.

To get mine off, I just grabbed it near the end muzzle and give it a good twist counter clockwise, and off it screwed. I like cleaning my barrels first before I shoot them, and I'm glad I did as there was a lot of brown crud in there. I needed to use a bronze brush with some JB bore cleaner compound till patches, run through on  jag came out clean. The bronze brush will not scratch steel, but if it worries you, don't do it.

I would be VERY CAUTIOUS (and check out the video first) before attempting to remove the shroud by sticking an allen wrench down through the end of the muzzle and trying to turn it. When you look down through the silencer, you're probably seeing the rifling which may appear to be an allen screw. 

[TheSaint]

Shooter r, the NP2's must use a different method of securing the shrouds than the NP guns. I can tell you for a fact that my just delivered NP Crusher uses the 1/4" Allen head shroud cap. The shroud is three separate assemblies: the cap, the shroud tube, and the rear reducer. The cap is ported, to allow air into the shroud itself, which makes the shroud functional, as opposed to just aesthetically pleasing. This also means that the occasional cleaning of the innards is probably not a bad idea.

I'm a mechanic by trade, so to remove the cap on my Crusher, I heated the cap end slightly with a heat gun, and whizzed the cap off with a 3/8" drive butterfly Impact wrench. An interesting observation on the shrouded NP gun barrels: the crown is cut very deep, and is extremely well machined ( at least on the three shrouded Crosman guns I now happily own, as opposed to the non-shrouded Crosman guns I also own.) The threads on the barrel are M12X1.0. I recommend running a die down the threads to remove the remaining thread locker compound, and using anti-seize on assembly, as the cap is aluminum.

[shooter r]

I'm sorry for any false info. I have a Benjamin Steel Eagle NP2, and the "shroud" (sounds like something you cover a dead person with), basically screws off with 3 components. There are 3 pieces on mine, the cone, the "shroud", and the silencer. I'm glad you figured it out.

Benji's are really good guns, and Crossman does a fine job of supporting parts for them! I was surprised at the low prices they charge for parts. I ordered a few and shipping was only $4.00, and should go out in a few days.

My crown is also somewhat deep, and very uniform. I like it. Benched, with my "best" pellet, the JSB 15.89's, I get some VERY good groups. The CBR trigger is a "Must Have", in my opinion. A little take up, and then a smooth 2nd stage. Mine is not a SNAP (broken glass), at the release, it's more of a predictable build up, then a known release point. I don't want to compare it to my 2 HW's, but it's close.

[pishta]

How does one remove the plastic barrel shroud from a Benjamin Prowler gas piston break barrel (full shroud model) or a Gamo Whisper? Look to be the same style barrel. I can un-thread the baffle no problem. Does the sheath just slide off or is it glued or threaded in as well? Need to investigate a possible bend and I cant see where it is  with the shroud on, but internally a view down the bore shows a definite warp. Not enough to cause an accuracy issue but its just not supposed to be bent at all. It was allowed to snap back under tension, "bear trapped" by the prior owner and thrown under the trailer for dead.