Two-Stage Trigger work

[jmdavis984]

I have a TF87 (SAG AR3000) and have finally put a scope on it.  Now that I can get a clear picture of how my trigger pull effects the rifle, I think I need to lighten the trigger.  I also would like to eliminate some of the over-travel of the second stage.  Other than the pull weight, I love the trigger, and it is probably set up just right if it were a field gun.  However, with the CP 4-16x40AOMDIR on it, it's ringing in at 11 lbs or so (NOT a field gun), so having a light trigger isn't a problem.

This trigger is the same as the TF89 (AR1000), Beeman RS2, and is supposed to be a copy of a two-stage Norica trigger.  I have found  one write-up on the trigger, but it is not very well received here.  I am capable of stoning/polishing contact surfaces, but I would really like to see what can be done with the adjustment screws first.  I'm trying to avoid blindly making adjustments and ending up with an unsafe or broken trigger.

[Kailua]

Polishing the sear will make a noticable difference.  Shimming the sides of the trigger makes the trigger feel more solid also.  If you do take apart the trigger assembly be careful  for the springs.  There is a double spring for the trigger pull weight and a small spring between the piston catch and the intermediate sear.  If the trigger weight spring is to light it will not return the trigger to the forward position and the safety will not catch.  If this happens may need to add a spring.

[jmdavis984]

It's amazing what a few turns of those screws will do.  I pulled the trigger one time very carefully before I touched anything to find out what I needed to tune out.  There was LOTS of creep in the second stage, and too much pull weight overall.  I backed out the pull weight adjuster and shortened the second stage by about 1.25 turns.  The trigger is now MUCH lighter with a really long and "gritty" first stage and about .5mm of travel (creep, yes I left some in there) in the second stage before it breaks.  I didn't want it too soft, I tend to be a bit clumsy at times. 

There is still too much over-travel in the trigger after the break, but I don't think that can be taken out with the adjustment screws.  I'll likely fashion a trigger stop using a small bolt through the trigger guard.  But, until then, I am amazed at how much difference a few screw turns can make.

I even learned a lesson.  If you take the rear stock screw out to remove the trigger guard, don't try to cock the gun until you replace it.  Unless, of course, you want to break your stock in half.  I didn't break mine, but I'm sure I came close.

[Kailua]

Remember to be safe when playing with triggers.  I know this is common sense but you know what can happen.  Had a 953 trigger set to light and when the cocking lever slammed shot a pellet through the lanai roof.  Yeah stupid me.  lol

[jmdavis984]

I made sure to be very gentle while cocking, and then after each adjustment I smacked the butt with a rubber mallet a few times to make sure there would be no trigger release.  The last thing I want is to have my finger in that loading gate and the bear-trap release.  I make sure to hang on to the underlever while loading, but even then I'm not sure my muscles would react in time to save my thumb.