While the SS brake will work it is too big for a 15 mm barrel. The proportions are off and it will look silly. I have both brake and 30S so I speak the truth. Get a JM brake and use some heat shrink tubing to shim it. This is what I did with my 50S which has the same 15mm barrel and I did not have to file the dovetails.http://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/1205004/692734.htm
No I did not have to file the dovetails. I used about 2" of heat shrink to shim the end and protect the barrel from the grub screws. Snug and solid.
It mounts using grub screws. That means your barrel will take a beating right at the connection point. If one uses the brake as a handle for cocking or really for any purpose the grub screws will be constantly working deeper into the barrel. I am curious however: What does a muzzle brake do for an air gun? I know what a good brake does on a Barrett light fifty. But an air gun? What's the deal?
There is a thread on NZAirgunners.com that deals with the topic in a DIY fashion that has just recently been running. May be worth a look.
....I'm certainly not concerned about reducing the report or muzzle flip ....
I think an R7 recoils about as much as the 1377.
Funny thing is that some people actually complain about the recoil of an R7.
Hello all you Americans.Our delving into the lumps on the end of a barrel really have nothing to do with noise. I want to hear it go bang. Muzzle flip is real and does occur on nominal 1000fps air guns and probably lesser powered rifles. Since adding weights in my experiments, the groups have tightened up considerably. Especially for a fairly ordinary shooter. You can't defeat the physics. Bang barrel are on the end and it will flex. The degree just depends on how hard you bang it. An HW 30 or Daisy 953 not much flex.I am at the moment playing around with the overlarge factory brake fitted to a Diana 34 Compact. I have had it off for a good while because I was not happy with the way it functioned and never very pleased with accuracy. The main problem is its design. It is a long tube that you can see in NZAirgunners forum photo.The internal diameter is machined out for most of its length to 23 mms. The last 70mms is machined to be a glove fit over the 16mm barrel and it is secured on the inboard end with two 4mm grub screws that have beem machine down fine on the point to enter a couple of locating holes. Not stout enough. There is about 150 to 200 mms unsupported tube over the barrel. The muzzle itself is cut of square and the crown is part of a screw in end cap. The inner side of the cap has a recess machine to keep the brake centred.In the never humble opinion of an amateur mucker abouter that is unsatisfactory The screws come undone after about ten shots and the whole lot flops about. Locktite for the screws you might say: I don't like the material after using it on the flywheel of a diesel engine. The air rifle has a fault that that should not be there. It is after all a Diana.The remedy:I have turned up a rubber plug out of a door stop that fits around the muzzle and inside the front of the break. The threaded cap pushes the rubber firmly -in and centres every thing. The rubber keeps pressure on the thread and it will not come undone. I still have the grub screws but held in with Araldite. I expect that to fail soon and I will get some 4mm cap screws and set them down in neoprene washers. They will not come undone. Maybe two grub screws with one on top to lock the other.So far results are encouraging, good tight groups, but the rifle needs resighting.
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