So it Begins

[Paul68]

Took the trigger assembly apart (Thanfully its simple) and polished it all up. Polished everything but the contact areas on the load points. Lubed everything with very thin film of bearing grease.Whole different trigger now. Back to our regularly scheduled drama

[Paul68]

No prob Steve. Was going to do the detailed post thing, then thought better of it given the potential for problems. I think I covered everything. Just take your time.

[sawtoothscream]

mine wont work with the headless screws any more, ill get it to work for 1 shot then the next it will cokc but wont fire with the trigger. had to install the normal screw again and it now works, but the trigger is bad, way to heavy and not smooth feeling.   If I knew these guns trigger were so poor I would have just save up more money and bought something different

[z28rod]

sawtoothscream ,
your doing somthing incorrectly, no one else has had this problem. explain exactly how you install the new srews and how many turns etc. brent

[sawtoothscream]

it worked for a long time with them but im sure I messed it up.  I tried the factory screws again because the headless wouldnt stay in place. then I removed the screw thats closer to the end of the barrel and installed the headless and left the factory  screw closest to trigger in. Thats when the problems started and now the headless wont work for more then a shot or 2 before it wont fire.  I reinstalled them like I did the first time and it just doesnt work right.   thinking something messed up when I left the factory screw in the back and installed the headless.  Dont really feel comfortable tearing apart the  trigger to see whats up

[Paul68]

The trigger on the Hatsans is surprisingly easy to disassemble and reassemble. Found out the hard way If you are not confident in dealing with the trigger, bite the bullet, play it safe, and send it out.

Three things I have found here that might be of use. Keep in mind this is trigger work and so you undertake it at your own risk, although in this case it sounds like you already have an unsafe condition and what I have done does not modify the trigger in any way. I can only tell you what I did and that it worked to fix my sticking trigger.

#1. The original screws have a poor finish on the contact point. It seems to eat at the bottom sear surface somewhat and either result in a trigger that smooths out with use, or gets increasingly rough. Those longer screws probably have no type of finish on the contact point at all and are grabbing into the sear rather than sliding along it. I'd take the original screws and use 400 grit to polish up the contact points till you can detect no burrs or roughness and put them back in. I'd then take out the bottom sear and lightly smooth ONLY the surface the screws contact. Do not polish the points where the sears enage each other.  A very thin film of moly on the screw contact surface of the sear, just enough to color it, would finish the job.


#2. This part is a bit more of a hassle just because its more work. The last two 125's I tore down had an extremely tight trigger housing. All the trigger components obviously are sandwiched within the housing and are squeezed on both sides by the housing. I have found that the housing can squeeze them so hard they actually get wedged into place and it becomes difficult for them to move, resulting in a very rough and heavy trigger. There is also possibly debris and grit in there further jamming things up. Making matters worse, when you install the tigger housing into the receiver, it squeezes the sides of the housing together, putting even more pressure on the sears and levers.

Since my Sniper trigger was full of metal bits and shavings, and the sears were very tightly wedged to where they would stick and jam even after cleaning everything out, I pulled out the middle and lower sears which are joined by a spring and smoothed them quite a bit. I laid some 60 grit on a flat surface, and laid each sear flat on it, and proceeded to basically hand mill some surface off each side of the sears. Not a lot, just enough to produce a new even finish which I then polished the same way with 320 grit. After cleaning them off I gave the sides of the sears a very thin smear of moly and reinstalled them.

These are basically just cleanup procedures and do not affect the engagement of the tigger action. They only allow smoother surfaces for the trigger screws to ride on, and let the sears move more freely in the trigger housing.

#3. The spring that tensions the upper sear directly in front of the trigger is loaded by installation of the trigger and rides along the side of the housing. The portion of the spring which is pushed down by the trigger to produce load can slip past the trigger pivot point and wedge between the trigger and the housing. I gave mine a slight inward bend on the end where it juts out into the housing so it is more centered beneath the trigger tab and can no longer slip between the trigger and housing.
 

[sawtoothscream]

ill most likly send it out in a month or 2.   might try what you did though.  thanks   now I just have to figure out how to get teh dang stock off. 

[microsalmo]

mine wont work with the headless screws any more, ill get it to work for 1 shot then the next it will cokc but wont fire with the trigger. had to install the normal screw again and it now works, but the trigger is bad, way to heavy and not smooth feeling.   If I knew these guns trigger were so poor I would have just save up more money and bought something different

Did you grind the screw tips into the OEM cone shape & polish smooth?  I did this with mine, and the trigger is wonderful.  But I used Stainless Steel screws from ACE Hardware - not sure if it makes a difference, but it shouldn't.